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Title: Memoirs of the Late War, Vol 1 (of 2)

Author: Sir John Henry Cooke

J. W. Dunbar Moodie

Earl of George Augustus Frederick FitzClarence Munster

Release date: November 13, 2017 [eBook #55952]

Language: English

Credits: Produced by Brian Coe, Larry B. Harrison, and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEMOIRS OF THE LATE WAR, VOL 1 (OF 2) *** 





Cover






title_page





MEMOIRS

OF

THE LATE WAR.

VOL. I.




The United Service Journal

AND

NAVAL AND MILITARY MAGAZINE.


This new and interesting miscellany is regularly
published by Messrs. Colburn and Bentley every
month, price 3s 6d. The following opinion will at once
demonstrate its claims on the attention of the public.




"The United Service Journal is confessedly one of the best
periodicals of its kind that have ever issued from the Public
Press. No Monthly Journal has yet appeared so devotedly
attached to the interests of the Army and Navy, or whose
claims to the patronage of both services are so strikingly conspicuous.
It is full of agreeable anecdote and useful information.
In its pages we find a faithful and most interesting record of
past achievements, whether on sea or land, diversified by many
characteristic traits of British heroism, and national gallantry,
from the lowest to the highest rank in the Service. New improvements
in gunnery, navigation, and the art of War, are
exposed to view with the commanding powers of a master hand,
while no subject is omitted which could by possibility involve
the honour and welfare of our Army and Navy. In fine, the
Journal affords us a correct summary of all changes in the
station of Regiments and Ships of the line, besides an authentic
return of the Promotions in the Red and the Blue. Independently
of the attractions it has for a military man, this periodical
may be read with much pleasure by a civilian, and we feel much
gratification in stating that it enjoys a very considerable patronage."—Limerick
Chronicle.




∵ The above Periodical is regularly supplied by all
Booksellers and Newsvenders, and may also be forwarded
to friends and relatives abroad, by giving orders, and
making payment accordingly, and those who may be
desirous of obtaining it, are requested to give their
orders to any Bookseller or Newsman in their own
immediate neighbourhood.


LONDON:

G. SCHULZE, 13, POLAND STREET.




MEMOIRS

OF

THE LATE WAR:

COMPRISING

THE PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF

CAPTAIN COOKE,

OF THE 43rd REGIMENT LIGHT INFANTRY;

THE HISTORY OF THE CAMPAIGN OF 1809

IN PORTUGAL,

BY THE EARL OF MUNSTER;

AND A NARRATIVE OF

THE CAMPAIGN OF 1814 IN HOLLAND,

BY LIEUT. T. W. D. MOODIE, H. P. 21ST FUSILEERS.


IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

 

LONDON:

HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY,

NEW BURLINGTON STREET.

1831.


v






CONTENTS

OF THE FIRST VOLUME.






PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF CAPTAIN COOKE.







CHAPTER I.




Page.




Initiation into military life—State of the militia force—Preparations
                    against the expected invasion from Boulogne—French
                    prisoners—An accident—The author occupies
                    a dull post near Grimsby—An enlivening incident
                    connected with the tender passion—Love cooled
                    by aqueous immersion, and rekindled by bright eyes—Earl
                    Fitzwilliam—Quarters in Bristol—A fatal affray—Clifton—The
                    author engaged in an affair of honour—Anecdote—The
                    author enters the line—Return of the
                    British army from the Peninsula—Severe drilling.
1




CHAPTER II.




Scene of embarkation for foreign service at Deal—A character—Force
                    and objects of the expedition—Arrival off
                    Walcheren—Siege and capture of Flushing—Disastrous
                    sickness among the troops—Evacuation of Walcheren,
                    with the author's adventure on the occasion—The return
                    to England—Napoleon's situation at that period.
34




viCHAPTER III.




Progress of distemper on the re-landing of the regiment in
                    England—Change of quarters—Amusements—Colchester—An
                    eventful water party—The author obtains leave to
                    join the detachment proceeding to Portugal—A Review—A
                    tale of dental dislocation—Embarkation at Spithead—Landing
                    in Portugal—Incidents of an evening—Amusements
                    at Lisbon, and departure from that city.
54




CHAPTER IV.




March to Santarem and Abrantes—Scenery and incidents at
                    Aronches—Junction with some other regiments—Military
                    scene in a wood—Anticipatory reflections on the fate
                    of some of the author's comrades—Quarters at Portalagre,
                    Castello de Vida and Marvao—Bridge of boats
                    across the Tagus—Contiguous scenery—Horrors of
                    travelling for invalids in the Portuguese cars.
71




CHAPTER V.




March continued—Wild and striking aspect of the country—Excellence
                    of discipline—Camp followers—Spanish
                    peasant girls and men—Plain of Fuente de Guinaldo—Reflections
                    on a soldier's life—A vegetable conflagration—Village
                    of Martiago—Difficulties of the French—Arrival
                    in cantonments—The paymaster's peculiarities.
85




CHAPTER VI.




The author is attacked by illness—Miseries of military
                    travelling in that condition—Quarters at Celorico—The
                    author's difficult recovery—Grievous sufferings endured
                    by the soldiers affected with fever in the sickly season—viiDeath
                    of the Paymaster—The author rejoins his Division—Movements
                    of the French—A clerical case of disaster—The
                    contested mattress—A dance—Expensive
                    celebration of Christmas—Story of the German suttler—Village
                    and neighbourhood of Fuente de Guinaldo—Theatrical
                    representations by the English officers.
100




CHAPTER VII.




Preparations for the siege of Ciudad Rodrigo—A review
                    of the light Division by Lord Wellington—The fort and
                    convent of Saint Francisco taken—Storming the breach—Capture
                    of the place—Regulations for the prevention
                    of plunder—Disorders committed in the city—Remarks
                    and anecdotes connected with the siege—Burial of General
                    Craufurd—Removal of quarters to El Bodon—Vestiges
                    of the previous engagement near that place—Ciudad
                    Rodrigo consigned to a Spanish garrison—March towards
                    Badajoz—Castello de Vida—Fortress of Elvas—An accidental
                    acquaintance.
114




CHAPTER VIII.




March from Elvas to Badajoz—Defences of that city—The
                    investment—A sortie—Operations of the batteries—Capture
                    of fort Picurina—Preparations for the grand assault—Advance
                    of the "forlorn hope"—Desperate encounter
                    at the breaches—Loss of life experienced by the British—The
                    mode of attack changed to escalade with success—The
                    city sacked by the British troops—Reflections respecting
                    the conduct of the siege—Incidental anecdotes.
133




viiiCHAPTER IX.




Movements of the enemy after the fall of Badajoz—March
                    of the British light and third divisions towards Ciudad
                    Rodrigo—Dispositions for a fresh campaign—Excellent
                    marching arrangement of the light division—Occupation
                    of Salamanca by the British, and investment of the forts—Advance
                    of the French army—Skirmishing and cannonading—Surrender
                    of the forts by the French—English
                    quarters at Rueda, and amusements there—Movements
                    of the author's division—A breakfast party broken up—Personal
                    escape of the commander-in-chief—Active
                    manœuvres of the contending forces—Retrograde movement
                    of the British towards Salamanca—Relative position
                    of the two armies—Battle of Salamanca.
157




CHAPTER X.




Well-performed retreat of the French after the battle of
                    Salamanca—Progress of the English troops—Description
                    of the Spanish plains and towns—Custom of the Siesta—Movements
                    of Joseph Bonaparte—Bivouac at Olmedo,
                    and ball given there by Lord Wellington—Advance of
                    the British army, and entry into Valladolid—A swimming
                    adventure—Illness of the author, and his removal to the
                    town of Cuellar—Timorous conduct of the Portuguese
                    dragoons—The English army enters Madrid—Incidents
                    attending the author's further removal as an invalid to
                    Salamanca—General position of affairs on the Continent—Operations
                    of Sir R. Hill—Re-capture of Valladolid—Unsuccessful
                    siege of Burgos—Various movements of
                    the forces.
191




ixCHAPTER XI.




The author becomes convalescent, and proceeds to rejoin
                    the army—Guadarama mountains—Park and Palace of
                    the Escurial—An enthusiastic native—A Spanish bandit—British
                    quarters in Madrid, and description of the
                    city—English theatricals—Renewed activity of the contending
                    armies—The British troops evacuate Madrid—Romantic
                    attachments—Alba de Tormes—Re-occupation
                    of Salamanca—Military discomforts—Skirmishing affairs—The
                    French obliged to desist from pursuit through
                    fatigue—Various positions of the British forces during
                    the winter of 1812–13. 
211




CHAPTER XII.




The light Division reviewed by the Commander-in-chief—Reinforcements
                    from England—The army again in
                    motion—Encampment of the light division between Rodrigo
                    and Salamanca—The German hussars—March to
                    Salamanca, the French retreating—Scene in the Cathedral
                    at Salamanca—Crossing the Tormes, and progress
                    of the march—Passage of the Esla—Affair at Toro with
                    the French heavy horse—Concentration of the whole
                    army, and march through Valencia towards Burgos—An
                    accommodating priest—Capture of French baggage
                    and prisoners—Details of the battle of Vittoria.
242




CHAPTER XIII.




Pursuit of the enemy after the battle of Vittoria—Curious
                    spectacle and adventure in a French bivouac—Advance
                    towards Pampeluna, and repulse of the French rear-guard—Retreat
                    of the main body of the enemy into
                    x–xiiFrance—Reflections on the policy of King Joseph—Change
                    of the British route, and encampment at Sanguessa—A
                    casual dance—Return to Pampeluna—Expulsion
                    of the French from the valley of Bastan—The
                    Basque peasantry—Town of Bera—Position for covering
                    Pampeluna and St. Sebastian—Preparations for the
                    attack of the latter place—The command of the French
                    assumed by the Duke of Dalmatia—A family scene—Position
                    of the French army.
274




CHAPTER XIV.




Offensive operations of the Duke of Dalmatia—Partial retrogression
                    of the British—Ill success in the storming
                    of the breaches at St. Sebastian—Movements of the
                    various divisions—Great extent of the British line along
                    the Pyrenees—Interesting domestic scene attending the
                    departure of the Author's Division from the town of
                    Bera—Battle of Pampeluna—Embarrassing situation of
                    the light division through an accidental separation from
                    the army—Successes obtained over the French, and their
                    consequent retreat—Active movements, and capture of
                    the enemy's baggage—A trait of character—Continued
                    advantages gained over the French, who are driven
                    beyond the Pyrenees.
300







PERSONAL NARRATIVE

OF

CAPTAIN COOKE.




1


MEMOIRS

OF

CAPTAIN COOKE.






CHAPTER I.






Initiation into military life—State of the militia force—Preparations
against the expected invasion from Boulogne—French
prisoners—An accident—The author occupies a dull post
near Grimsby—An enlivening incident connected with the
tender passion—Love cooled by aqueous immersion, and rekindled
by bright eyes—Earl Fitzwilliam—Quarters in Bristol—A
fatal affray—Clifton—The author engaged in an affair
of honour—Anecdote—The author enters the line—Return of
the British army from the Peninsula—Severe drilling.




On the 24th of January, 1805, I made my début
on the parade as ensign in the first West York,
powdered and equipped in full uniform, with an
artificial tail of considerable length tied round my
neck, a cocked hat square to the front and a
sword five inches shorter than the regulation,2
made in proportion to my height, being only four
feet eleven inches, and within one month of
attaining my fourteenth year.


My diminutive figure soon attracted the attention
of the leading company of the regiment,
composed of gigantic Yorkshire grenadiers1,
and excited so much merriment among them,
and so encreased my previous confusion, that
my eyes became dim and my feet seemed scarcely
to touch the ground. However, some kind expressions
from the officers who came forward
and surrounded me, and their gay appearance
soon dispelled my inquietude.


A short time proved sufficient to instruct me
in the duties required; and the varied amusements
caused the early months of my career to
glide rapidly on. Our uniform was plain, faced
with green, but suddenly altered owing to an
officer of expensive habits, who ordered a new
coat to be made and covered with a profusion of
gold lace, in which he appeared at the mess table,
and so captivated his companions by his rich display,
that a unanimous burst of admiration broke
forth. Although the lieutenant colonel was as
much averse from any thing of the sort as it was3
possible for any one to be, the new pattern
was carried by acclamation, and a tacit consent
wrung from the commanding officer, intermixed
with his hearty execrations. Frequently, after the
alteration, he used to wear his old coat at the
mess table by way of a treat, when, to his extreme
mortification, the very officer who caused the
change would throw out hints about officers
being unregimentally dressed.


Such was the ingenuity of this individual,
that on being refused leave of absence, he waited
personally on a general, and afterwards declared
that he had represented the necessity of his appearance
at home in such moving words, that he
not only obtained double the time originally asked
for, but also drew tears of sympathy from the
general's eyes.


In the early part of the summer, General Sir
John Moore inspected us on our parade ground,
and was pleased to pass his high encomiums on
the very fine appearance and steadiness of the
men while under arms. Indeed the militia at
large were equal to the line2, in the execution of4
their evolutions and discipline, and were well
adapted for the defence of their native shores,
at this epoch threatened with invasion by the
French. Had their services been required to
repel such an aggression,—led on by experienced
generals, without doubt they would have proved
themselves equal to cope with any troops in the
world; and those who had an opportunity of
judging at that time, will, I am confident, fully
coincide with me and join in just admiration
at the high state of perfection that national force
had been brought to.


During the summer the troops in the numerous
towns and camps in Kent were reviewed. Our
brigade left Ashford and joined two battalions
of the rifle corps, 95th3, at Bradbourne Lees and
manœuvred before the Duke of York. The 43rd
and 52nd light infantry regiments were organised
under the immediate superintendence of Sir John
Moore4 (assisted by Major General McKenzie)
at Hythe, and Shorncliff camp, in the most5
exemplary manner. Those corps were indeed the
admiration of all, for their discipline, and the
rapidity of their light movements, all of which being
executed on the moveable pivot, by divisions,
or sections, formed columns, squares, lines, and
echelon, without a halt, by merely marking
time.


The moveable pivot preserved a regular
cadence, handsome to the sight, and of great
utility. In course of time these useful evolutions
extended throughout the army, and, for aught
I know, are still called "new!" with perhaps a
few alterations.


The officers of these regiments wore a neat
soldier-like uniform of scarlet, facings white and
buff, with a pair of small silver epaulettes; and
such was the similarity of costume of the two corps,
that, at a short distance, it was hardly possible
to distinguish one from the other; and, when
formed in a line on the green sod at Shorncliff,
they presented a fine coup d'œil. The rifle
corps wore dark green with black lace, helmets
and long green feathers5.


It is a strange coincidence, that these corps6
should have been so near each other, (almost
within sight of Napoleon's grand camp at
Boulogne) for the purpose of joining their
efforts to repel the threatened attack on the coast,
and that, in after years, they should be united
in a series of brilliant victories gained over the
French legions, during a period of service,
which, in future ages, will create wonder at the extraordinary
rise and fall of Napoleon in the
centre of civilised Europe; whose legions
like an overwhelming lava spread death
and destruction far and wide; drove all nature
into mourning, and converted Europe into an
hospital.


Napoleon at this period had formed at
Boulogne and its vicinity a powerful army,
which he hoped to be enabled to throw across
the channel by the end of August and effect a
landing in England under the protection of the
combined French and Spanish fleets, commanded
by Admiral Villeneuve, who was expected from the
West Indies about that time to concentrate the
different fleets in the French and Spanish ports, to
be composed of sixty ships of war destined to
cover the numerous flotilla which was also to be
crowded with soldiers inured to war.


Every effort on the part of this country was
made to frustrate such a design. Martello7
towers had been erected along the coast of Kent
at certain distances, and thousands of navigators
and soldiers were hard at work cutting
the military canal twenty yards wide across
Romney Marsh. Beacons were placed on the
tops of the highest hills, to light up, and alarm
the country in case of a sudden descent of the
enemy. Fortunately however the hostile movements
of the Austrians obliged Napoleon to
break up his camp at Boulogne, and march to
oppose them. The latter part of this year produced
extraordinary events; Napoleon was
again overwhelming the continent by his military
achievements, and Nelson in a like manner,
by his naval exploits, was clearing all before
him. These great commanders seemed striving
to outvie each other on their peculiar elements,
and each won a great battle6, and within a few
months of each other.


During the autumn, the regiment to which I
belonged marched to Chelmsford in Essex, and
was stationed there a few weeks with other corps,
previously to our proceeding to Norman Cross for
the purpose of guarding some thousands of unhappy
Frenchmen, cooped up at that place, and
clothed in yellow (the prison dress) to expiate8
their revolutionary sins by many years' captivity
and exile in a loathsome prison, cut off
from their relatives and friends.


Their necessities forced them to exert their
ingenuity in making various curious toys, which
they disposed of at a very low rate to enable
them to procure a few comforts, to alleviate
their extreme wretchedness, which was beyond
description; for want of clothes many of them
suffered every privation rather than be clad in a
conspicuous and humiliating colour; others were
in rags and almost in a state of nudity, having
lost their all by gambling; and to so great an
extent did the vice grow, that many would even
stake their rations, and every trifle given to
them by strangers, until, by their half famished
looks, they bore a resemblance to skeletons.


The exterior of the prison was enclosed by
strong wooden railings, as well as the four
interior quadrangles, in the centre of which stood
a circular block house bristled with three pounders
on swivels, their muzzles peeping out of square
apertures (similar to the ports of a ship) to play
on the prisoners in case of their becoming refractory.
Generals Boyer and Rochambeau were,
for some reason or other, in close confinement;
one of them played and sang most delightfully on
the guitar.


9


The barracks stood about east and west, occupied
by two regiments, with two field pieces
always placed at the gates, in readiness to fire
if necessary. The high north road ran within
about two hundred yards of the west barrack.
A troop of the 7th light dragoons7 were quartered
near at hand to pursue those Frenchmen who
might attempt to effect their escape, which many
accomplished by the utmost danger, and the
most unaccountable perseverance; sometimes
by working under ground for months, to excavate
a way out of prison. One man, absolutely
wrapped in straw bands, dropped himself into a
night cart, (which he was aware would be
drawn away that night) and he was pitched out
with the soil at the usual place on the slope of a
hill; but, in his haste to extricate himself, he was
discovered, and brought back half suffocated.


Many of the poor prisoners gave lessons in
fencing; and while I was once displaying the proficiency
I had made in that art to an amateur by
placing him in a defensive position to ward off my
rapid attack, he unfortunately guided the point of
my cane up his own nostrils which caused him
forthwith to ungrasp his sword, and apply both
hands to the wounded part. Being much alarmed at10
the accident, I stood at a respectful distance
from my friend, until the pain had subsided;
fearing that, under such torment, he might take
signal vengeance on my slender frame.


The winter passed heavily enough at this
dull spot, and without doubt the best hour of the
day was that when the drum struck up the
"Roast Beef of old England," the certain announcement
of a well supplied board, covered
with massive plate, and groaning under the
weight of the choicest viands the season afforded.


Early in the spring the long wished for
route arrived for Hull in Yorkshire. When we were
on the march through Lincolnshire, a sudden
thunder storm came on, accompanied by heavy
rain, and we saw a poor girl at work in an
adjoining field; but, before she was able to gain
a place of shelter from the rain, a flash of lightning
struck her on the forehead and killed her on the
spot. Her lifeless body was conveyed to the
nearest town, to her unhappy relatives. After the
expiration of a few days we arrived at Barton,
where we crossed the Humber (seven miles down
the river) in the regular passage-boats to the
place of our destination, having experienced the
usual comforts of a march in England: such as
good breakfasts, dinners, and a comfortable
feather bed every night.


11


Soon after our arrival a detachment was ordered
to take charge of some batteries on the right
bank of the Humber in Lincolnshire, no great
distance from Grimsby; and, for the good of my
morals, I was selected for that duty, it being
considered by excellent judges that so populous
a town as Hull afforded too many temptations
for one so young as myself. Every movement
to me was a source of pleasure; already my new
abode was anticipated, and some highly romantic
spot pictured to my imagination. A fancied
governor too, surrounded by the inhabitants of
the adjacent country looking up with that respect
so flattering to one placed in so responsible a
situation!


The hour of my departure was hailed with joy,
and I eagerly jumped on board a small packet
procured for the transport of myself and party.
The sails being spread out, I felt a secret wish
that my brother and another officer had not been
on board, so that I might have entered into my
important avocations without further delay. We
had glided a short way on our course, when the
wind changed, and became adverse, and, after a
few tacks, I lost my vivacity, my countenance
turned pale, and my brother remarked that I
was sea-sick. "How can that be," faintly replied
I, "when we are only in a river;" although it12
must be acknowledged that, owing to its proximity
to the sea, the water was sufficiently agitated
to cause some derangement in the stomach of a
landsman.


At the expiration of a few hours' tossing, we
anchored off a solitary habitation, three sides of
which were encompassed by a dreary marsh of
considerable extent, intersected with dykes. On
landing, my companions surveyed the surrounding
prospect, casting significant looks towards each
other; and a half stifled laugh followed at my
dejected amazement, as I contemplated the prospect
before me, wondering how the coming six months
were to be employed, or myself to be amused,
in this swamp, whitened by innumerable flocks
of sea gulls. On entering the boat house I sat
down with little appetite to partake of some eggs
and bacon, that being the best fare to be procured.
My companions made a hearty meal, and, having
swallowed a couple of tumblers of brandy and
water, took their departure with a fair wind,
leaving me to make the best of my way, over
a pathless waste, in the direction of a small
wooden building rearing its chimnies just above
an earth entrenchment decorated by four heavy
cannons mounted en barbette, and a bare pole
in the centre by way of a flag staff. The soldiers
preceding me were a short way in front. In vain13
I strained my eyes in search of a second habitation,
to cheer this monotonous scene; night
was fast drawing to a close, and the disagreeable
Humber and its muddy banks disappearing from
my view, amidst a drizzling rain.


On entering the room allotted for my use, I
seated myself on my baggage in no very cheerful
mood, waiting the delivery of coals and candles,
while my servant was busily employed mopping
the floor. In the morning the men were placed
at the guns, armed with rammers and handspikes,
to learn to load, elevate, and traverse, so as to fire
in case any French ships might enter the river,
to disturb the whalers anchored off Hull.


A printed board of orders nailed to the wall at
the extremity of my room shewed me the necessity
of visiting another battery under my
charge (at stated periods) distant six miles up the
river. I was also informed that I had a horse
at my service; but, when the animal was brought
forward, all hopes of a ride vanished, he proving
lame of a leg, very old, and his coat sticking up
like the bristles of a porcupine.


My instructions also specified that every Sunday
the detachment was to attend divine service, at a
church situated inland on a gentle rise, shrouded
by trees, about two miles from the battery, which
was to be left in charge of a corporal's guard.


14


The sixth day happened to be the sabbath; the
weather was propitious. I therefore decorated
myself in hopes of getting a glimpse of some
flowing drapery at the distant hamlet. On our
arrival the bell was tolling, and a few infirm individuals
were creeping into the old church. As
the service had not begun, I squatted myself on a
hay-cock—for the grass of this church yard was
turned to account, and, as far as I could judge,
was as fine a crop as any around.


At length the bell ceased to reverberate, and I
was about to enter the decayed doors of the
church, when on raising my eyes I beheld a young
lady of lovely face and form, stationary, with one
foot placed on the top of the style (leading into
the church-yard) and with her eyes apparently fixed
in the direction of where I stood. She evinced an
animation, which I shall long remember; for my
heart began to beat with the most joyful anticipations.
She passed close to me, while I remained
fixed, and gazing on her with transported admiration.
I soon followed, and was placed in
a pew exactly opposite to her. Her raven tresses
hung carelessly from under a little blue silk hat.
Her cheeks vied with the roses, and the lustre of
her sparkling black eyes pierced the inmost recesses
of my beating heart. Before the service
was concluded, we were both holding down our15
heads laughing; and the only excuse for such indecorous
conduct, (if any can be offered), was our
youth—for she was only sixteen, and I was half a
year younger.


Two days after, I wandered towards the village;
the peasants had gone forth to their daily labour.
On looking about, I could see but one house likely
to contain the object of my secret regard. It was
a large old building encompassed by an extensive
field in the shape of a park. However, I fancied
this was not her dwelling, as she had entered the
church yard from quite a contrary direction.
Having wandered some time without encountering a
single person of whom I could make any inquiries,
I at last felt convinced that the fair object of my
search had come from a distant village, and that I
should not again behold her fascinating smiles.


In retracing my steps from thence, the marsh became
doubly odious to my sight; however, on the
following Sunday, I placed myself on the same
spot in the church yard, with my eyes steadfastly
fixed on the style. The bell ceased to toll, the
church doors closed, the service had begun, but
my belle did not appear; and I now in real earnest
began to consider myself a perfect exile, not
having exchanged a syllable with any one save my
servant (or when giving some trifling orders) for
thirteen days. The next morning I started on foot16
to visit the other fort (mounting two guns, with a
garrison of one serjeant, a gunner, and fourteen
men,) to be assured that the lame horse had
safely carried their provisions, and to see that the
defences had not been washed away during the
last spring tide. After a toilsome walk of no inconsiderable
distance, along a dyke, overrun with
long grass nearly up to my middle, I returned,
well tired, and perfectly cooled in my governorship.


The next day I made towards the hamlet, being
determined to summon up resolution, and make
inquiries at some cottage, or to endeavour to find
out from whence came the sole object of my
thoughts. On my accosting an old woman, who
very civilly answered all my inquiries, she communicated
that the young lady was a gentleman farmer's
daughter; expatiating upon her beauty and
amiability, and concluded by remarking, that she
supposed by this time she must have returned to
school beyond Lincoln, as she had not seen her
for some days. She then informed me that, when
at home, the young lady resided in the large mansion
already described. Having now gained the
long wished information, I wandered towards
the spot, and espied a figure clad in white standing
at the door of a cottage, at no great distance
from the large house.


I instantly made my way across the field, full of17
doubts and fears, and when, within a short distance,
I could distinguish the same figure, and the
charming countenance I was in quest of,—I hesitated,
being fearful that the object of my search
might vanish. At length with a palpitating
heart, and extremely confused, I found myself
opposite the brunette. I attempted to speak,
but, alas! my words were unintelligible; she
smiled, and I was rooted to the spot,—she retreated
backwards; her eyes, acting like load
stars, drew me forward. I stumbled over the doorsill,
and found myself in a small room in the interior
of the cottage. At the extremity of it
sat an ancient dame at her spinning wheel, who,
looking through her spectacles at me, regarded
so small a figure, in a rich scarlet uniform, with a
degree of good-natured surprise.


Some moments elapsed before any one of this
trio broke silence. My incognita blushed and cast
the kindest regards towards her old nurse, who
looked alternately towards us for some explanation;
but, finding little chance of any from our confusion,
she broke the awkward silence by requesting to
know my pleasure? In reply, I stammered out,
that I had lost my way; she instantly arose, and
offered the assistance of her son, to conduct me
into the right road; but my chère amie now found
her voice, and stopped her short, by offering her18
services to point out the way for me herself; and,
almost in the same breath, asked me if I did not
feel considerably fatigued after so long a walk?
Then, entering into conversation, the hours flew
away imperceptibly, until the old dame reminded
her of her unusually long absence from
home, which might induce her mamma to send
some one in search of her; we thereupon parted
seemingly equally pleased with each other, and
with an agreement to continue our acquaintance.
To my eyes the marsh now no longer presented a
dreary waste; my heart was as light as a feather;
I bounded over planks and ditches, for hedges
there were none. Even the odious twenty-four
pounders I could have turned to use, by loading
them up to the muzzles with grape shot, against
all pirates or rivals; and I do verily believe that
had it not been for the presence of an old steady
gunner, I should really have fired a salute on the
occasion.


I ordered tea to be prepared, and my fire made
up. I then opened a box filled with books that
day forwarded to me from Hull with a note from
my brother, saying, that according to my wishes
he had sent some novels, and also a few volumes
of the Roman History, with his strict injunctions
not to neglect the perusal of the latter in particular.


The first book I extracted was a deep romance;19
and the pages were eagerly devoured with all
those transports so natural to youthful minds. It
was soon conveyed for the perusal of my chère
amie; for in truth the Roman History had never
entered my head.


A fresh supply being soon necessary, the box
was returned, and the history kept as a reserve,
and, like many other reserves, it was never brought
into action. After a short acquaintance, my little
belle intimated to me, that I might expect an
invitation when her papa (who abominated the red
coats, great and small) should make his annual
excursion. It struck me that a dark lantern
might be of great utility during such parties as I
might chance to attend. I therefore begged of
my brother that one might be purchased for me,
which was accordingly done, although such a request
somewhat excited his surprise; however, on
reflection, the extensive prospect he had previously
surveyed the day he conducted me to my lonely
abode, soon convinced him that a nightly tramp
would be out of the question, and he set my request
down to the effect of the romances I had
recently perused. At length the time of papa's
departure was announced to me, with an invitation
from mamma to take tea with her: and, on the
appointed night, having secured my barrack room
door, I walked a short distance, and turned my20
dark lantern, to enable me to explore my way
over a path intersected by numerous ditches.


On my arrival near the gate at the end of an
enclosure, leading to the house, the rays of my
lantern fell on a figure all in white. I made a
sudden stop, and opened my eyes to their full
extent, to satisfy myself what so strange an appearance
could be, so late, and at so lonely a spot;
for various confused ideas crossed my mind, my
fancy was worked up to the highest state of
excitement, and a cold chill ran through my veins,—when
suddenly the ground gave way, and I was
immersed above my middle in water in a ditch,
the edge of which had given way. During my
alarm, while I was endeavouring to extricate myself
from my awkward situation, the figure moved
towards me and I scrambled out of the ditch,
covered with duck weed. As a last resort I
summoned up my remaining courage, and demanded
in a loud voice, or rather screech, "What are
you?" when a plaintive voice answered, "It is
I." and the speaker instantly vanished.


After looking cautiously around, in apprehension
of making another false step and getting a
second ducking, I explored my way with considerable
difficulty to the house, absolutely following
the direction of the supposed phantom.
There I found my new friend waiting for me at the21
door much alarmed, who informed me she had
seen the light of my lantern gradually approaching,
and had ventured to meet me; but the hearing
the souse, and such a strange salute in total
darkness, had so terrified her, that a hasty
flight had been the consequence.


Her mamma had waited tea some time, and on
entering the room I perceived that she was in full
dress and highly rouged; I was introduced to her,
wet through, and covered with a green weed, like
some sea monster. She laughed immoderately.
What was to be done? A change was necessary:
the husband's clothes would not do. A huge
country girl being called in, while divesting me of
my coat, suggested that I should be attired in one
of her young lady's dresses. This proposal
afforded mamma much diversion, who agreed
to the proposal, and I was led into the kitchen,
to a rousing wood fire, blazing on the hearth,
under a spacious chimney. Here I was unceremoniously
stripped by the maid, who appropriated
so much time to the adjustment of my female attire,
that her jeune maîtresse demanded the reason
of my person being kept so long in custody by this
Amazonian wench. My toilette being arranged,
tea and coffee were served up, and the time passed
in the most agreeable conversation. The night
had far advanced, when an unexpected rapping22
was heard, with the butt end of a riding whip,
heavily applied to the oaken doors, while a hoarse
voice demanded admittance in the well known
key of papa: but to my ears the notes were like
the roaring of a lion. All lights were instantly extinguished,
and the back door was thrown open, out
of which I was led into a poultry yard, and from
thence into a loft, where, seating myself on a truss
of hay, I waited in much suspense, while the
heavy bars were removed from the gate of the
farm yard, to admit the squire and his horse. His
gruff voice soon died away; the gates were again
closed and all became quiet. Shortly afterwards a
rustling noise and gentle footsteps struck on my
ear, when my belle again made her appearance accompanied
by the before mentioned Amazonian
fille de chambre, with my dried paraphernalia
under her arm.


Meanwhile mamma was left to conduct her
bloated spouse grunting to bed, quite overcome,
after his devotions to Bacchus and the malt tub.
Soon after I had assumed the attire of my own
sex, the crowing of the feathered tribe announced
the time for my departure, when, bidding tender
adieus, I rapidly stole across the meadow, and just
before the sun arose, I found myself once more
within my camp bed—minus my dark lantern.


I often bended my steps during these May days23
towards the peaceful hamlet far removed from any
neighbouring village, from whence a green sod,
hedged on each side, was the sole outlet or vestige
of a road winding into the interior, through a rich
pasturage country; it was in these rural shades,
and unbeaten tracks, that my blooming companion
and I rambled at large, and, when fatigued, her old
nurse would place before us her best China service,
and seem to participate in our happiness. The
summer months flew away, and my indescribable
departure was announced. I presented the hospitable
old dame with a new pair of spectacles, and
she wiped her eyes. The Yorkshire-men buckled
on their knapsacks, the wind was fair, the bark cut
through the water, the old church vanished from
my sight, and I again landed at the busy and
trafficing town of Hull.


Here the merchants entertained the military
with turtle, and such feasts as their rapidly
accumulated wealth enabled them to spread out
in gorgeous abundance. The card parties were
crowded to excess, and very high stakes played
for; more particularly as many of the officers
were possessed of large landed property, and also
displayed most splendid equipages.


The venerable Earl Fitzwilliam, who was the
Colonel of the regiment, was there, and when I
was introduced to him, he asked me whether I24
did not find the colours very heavy in my hands?
My face instantly coloured up; the fact was, I had
been blown down, colours and all, while at a field
day at Ashford in Kent. The amiable nobleman,
with his characteristic kindness, took care that I
should see my name in the next gazette as a
Lieutenant.


After a very short stay at Hull, we were
ordered to Whitby, Burlington, and Scarboro',
situated on the sea coast. I had the good fortune
to march to the latter town, with which I was
much struck on entering. It is compact, and
situated in a valley, with the fine old castle rising
abruptly and commanding a bird's eye view of the
town, and the beautiful and extensive sands,
which become so hard, that at low water horse
racing used to take place, and with great safety, as
there is hardly a pebble to be seen.


This was a grand place of resort, where the
healthy dames and their daughters from the
North, came to sip the spa, to flounder in the sea,
to see and be seen, and to listen to the mild sayings
of strangers from the south, while hurrying
down fifty couple at Donna's rooms, with rosy
cheeks, and hair somewhat out of curl. One whole
year passed at this place in a continual round of
amusements, such as balls, parties, picnic
excursions, gay promenades, and horse-racing.25
The band was magnificently attired in green and
gold; in fact, Earl Fitzwilliam gave up the whole
or the greater part of his pay for the benefit of
the regiment.—The volunteering into the line
continued from time to time; the greater portion
of the men, being of large stature, entered the
foot guards, the artillery, and marines.


The route at length arrived; and on the morning
of our departure the band struck up, the bass drum
beating the marching time, a signal for windows
to be hastily thrown open by many fair ladies en
déshabille, waving their white handkerchiefs and
delicate hands, until a wind of the road concealed
them from our admiration. The sun shone brightly,
and, as we cast a lingering look behind, the venerable
white turrets of the castle and the sparkling
blue sea foaming at its base receded from our
view. We had proceeded about ten miles over
the bare wold, when, our appetites becoming
rather keen from the sea breezes, we began to cast
our longing eyes towards a small sequestered
village, surrounded by stone walls, and a few
scattered trees, which proved a welcome sight.
On entering, we drew up opposite a small rustic
inn, for the purpose of taking breakfast:—the
chubby cherry-cheeked maids flocked around us,
and became so elated at the sounds of the music,
and at the sight of the red coats, that in their26
hurry to lay before us such provisions as the place
afforded, they pushed and jostled their rustic
swains out of their way, who, while resting on
their pitchforks looked uneasy, as if doubting for
the first time in their lives the true constancy of
their sweethearts.


After partaking of a most excellent breakfast,
we resumed our road, and at the expiration of
three days again entered Hull, when we soon
received an order to proceed to Bristol; we
passed through Beverley to Hull, then to Doncaster,
Birmingham, Derby, Litchfield, Gloucester,
and Worcester, besides many towns of smaller note
interspersed through this highly cultivated country.
Having accomplished a march of three hundred
miles, we reached Bristol. While passing through a
town, an old woman perceived the officer of the light
company with a knapsack on his back: she hobbled
towards him, and addressed him by the familiar
appellation of "Sergeant;" he answered with a
smile, "My good old lady, serjeants do not
carry knapsacks in this regiment," at the same
time casting a glance towards a few of that rank
who had left theirs on the baggage waggons:—the
officer loaded himself in this way for the comfort
of a speedy change, on the march during wet
weather. A number of French prisoners were
confined at Stapleton prison, about five miles from27
Bristol. This duty we found unpleasant, having
to tramp over a dirty road in the winter, in white
kerseymere breeches, for the purpose of mounting
guard. A most fatal affray happened here betwixt
four French prisoners, owing to a dispute which
arose out of a trifling gambling transaction. The
two principals first engaged, having split a scissars
into two parts and tied the points to the end of
canes, with which they fought, one was soon
killed, the seconds then engaged, when another
fell mortally wounded; in fact, both the friends on
one side fell.


We frequently visited the village of Clifton
within a mile of Bristol. It is beautifully situated,
overlooking the river Avon, which romantically
winds at the base of steep declivities, decorated
with overhanging shrubs.—The promenades
and balls were very fashionably attended, and it
was surprising to observe the superiority of manners,
costume, and dancing, compared with those of
the company attending the assemblies at Bristol.


Early in the summer of 1808, we again moved,
and passed through the counties of Somerset
and Devon to Plymouth, there to do duty over
the arsenals and more French prisoners.


I had now reached my seventeenth year. One
evening while rambling about, I accidentally met
an officer, and entered into conversation with him,28
when I was not a little surprised at his making
use of my elder brother's name, in no very complimentary
strain, and, as I was aware that such
sentiments could not be used unintentionally by
a man of the world, I made a suitable retort, and
left him. On reaching my brother's barrack
room which was adjacent to mine, I found him
poring over a volume of Shakspeare, with his
usual theatrical delight, and, not wishing to disturb
his transporting meditations, I bade him
good night and retired to my bed, having given
my servant directions to call me the next morning
early, which being duly executed, I sent a friend
with a message to the officer already alluded to,
which he instantly accepted; but, as the regiment
was under arms much earlier than usual, to fire
ball cartridge at a target, it was agreed that we
should manage to get leave with our seconds, and
fall out one at a time, so as not to create any suspicion
of our intentions.


Our uniforms having been thrown aside, four
of us proceeded some distance before we could
find a spot to suit our purpose. The usual
distance being measured, we tossed up for
sides. I lost, and stood with my face towards
the sun, as no other level spot could be found
at hand. Having taken our ground, the usual
distance (by word), we both fired without29
effect: the pistols being re-loaded, a second discharge
was about to take place, when my adversary
addressed me by my Christian name, and
said he wished the affair adjusted, so that all that
had passed between us should be forgotten, and
that we might be the same good friends as heretofore,—the
seconds then interfered, and all was
amicably adjusted8.


A general order appeared about this period,
exploding hair-powder and tails throughout the
army. But, previously to its coming out, a most
ludicrous occurrence happened. An officer who
possessed a very good figure and a fine head of
hair, had shown a great antipathy against wearing
powder, so much so, that it was only by a repetition
of orders, that he could be induced to use the
puff, and even then it was so sparingly put on his
crown, as to be scarcely visible. One morning
as usual he appeared on the parade, with his
head unwhitened; the captain of his company not
a little roused, at having so frequently reminded
him of his neglect of duty, again remarked that30
he was without powder; when he carelessly answered,
that he supposed a puff of wind must
have blown it out; which so incensed the captain
that he forthwith reported the circumstance.
The whole of the officers being assembled to the
front, the culprit patiently heard the accusation
against him, and as coolly received the slight
reprimand from the commanding officer, who
had no sooner finished what he had to say than
the accused officer fixed his eyes steadily on his
captain, and, without uttering a syllable lifted his
cap slowly from his head at arm's length, showing
a head as white as snow, while his accuser
stood petrified and confounded, to the no small
amusement of the surprised circle who burst into
an unrestrained laugh, joined in by the senior
officers. The fact was, that the rear of the company
was close to the soldiers' barrack, and, while
the captain was in the act of reporting his junior
officer, the latter had run into one of the men's
rooms, seized a flour tub (used by the soldiers)
and, with its contents, had covered his head,
leaving the side locks untouched as before.


About this time, the expedition to Portugal
put into Plymouth, and as there appeared some
probability of an opening for the British army
on terra firma, I felt an anxiety to enter the31
line. A commission was promised me in a
light infantry regiment, which I soon after
obtained; at this time Plymouth was crowded
by Portuguese officers, that had fled from
their native country with the royal family of
Portugal, who had departed for the New World.
Portugal being cleared of the French and Spanish
invaders, the British entered Spain to threaten
the right flank of the French army under
Napoleon, in the depth of winter, which ended
by Sir John Moore being killed, and the whole
of the English army re-embarking at Corunna.
The different regiments landed in England
in the most deplorable condition, having been
overtaken by a tempest, which had scattered
them over the face of the waters.


The inhabitants of Plymouth received these
troops with open arms, and threw wide their
doors for the benefit of the suffering officers;
they watched over their sick beds in the most
assiduous manner, and supplied them gratis
with every comfort; such as shirts and shoes,
and crowned all this magnanimous hospitality,
by advancing money to many of the convalescent
officers to enable them to reach their far distant
homes, in England, Ireland, and Scotland.
But how different was the treatment of the army
(who had freed Portugal) elsewhere! A young32
and handsome officer had landed at another
port in a wretched state, bare-footed, his feet
tormented with gravel, suffering from a fever, and
supporting himself against a wall: then, creeping
along in an exhausted state, he was unnoticed by
the passers by, until a sailor said, "Why, soldier
officer, you are aground, come lay hold of my
arm: I will take care of you."


In March9 1809, I obtained my ensigncy
in the line, and proceeded to Colchester to join
the second battalion of the 43rd light infantry.
When an officer entered this corps it was an
invariable custom to send him to drill with a
squad, composed of peasants from the plough tail,
or other raw recruits, first learning the facings,
marching, and companies' evolutions. That being
completed, the officer put on cross belts and pouch,33
and learned the firelock exercise; then again
he marched with the same: and when it was
considered that the whole were perfect, with,
and without arms, they began to skirmish in
extended files, and last of all learned the duties
of a sentry, and to fire ball cartridge at a target.
The officer after all this was not considered clear
of the adjutant, until he could put a company
through the evolutions by word of command,
which he had already practised in the ranks.
It generally took him six months in summer
at four times a day (an hour at each period) to
perfect him in all he had to learn. The drill was
never kept more than an hour under arms,
when, to a minute, the time beater rolled his
drum, the only one, (light infantry regiments
used bugles) in the corps; and the recruits were
instantly dismissed.


The orderly officer of each company made out
the daily morning state with his own hand.
Subalterns inspected squads on parade: the
company was then formed and given over to the
captain, who, with the rest of the officers, never
quitted their company to lounge about, so long
as the soldiers continued under arms. The corps
paraded twice a week in heavy marching order,
and the mess was equally well conducted, in
a system of style and economy happily blended.




1 The grenadier company was composed of more than
one hundred men, and only contained eleven men so short as
five feet eleven inches.


2 Their code of military law, their pay, provisions, arms and
accoutrements were the same as in the line; and they often
marched three or four hundred miles at a sweep! In summer
they went into camp, or did garrison duty; and each company
possessed a bat-horse with a pack-saddle, to carry the iron
camp kettles.


3 Now the rifle-brigade.


4 Sir John Moore offered commissions to Lieutenants Booth,
Temple, and myself of the York. The two former joined the
52nd; but, as my brother fancied that I was too young and as
I was not my own master, I was obliged to submit to his decision.
Lieut. O-Reilly also entered the rifle-corps and was
subsequently killed on the river Coa in Portugal; and Lieut.
Booth was killed at the storming of Badajoz in Spain.


5 The pelisse was subsequently introduced, and a
soldier clad in (green tartan) the highland costume, carried a
small standard. The three light regiments increased to seven
battalions during the war; 43rd two; 52nd two; rifles three.


6 Trafalgar and Austerlitz.


7 Now hussars.


8 My brother and the same officer had a dispute eight months
after this affair. They met; and at the first fire my brother received
his adversary's hall through the upper part of his thigh,
but eventually recovered.


9 In that month the first battalion marched from Colchester
to Harwich to embark for Portugal with the 52nd and the
Rifle corps, under Major General R. Craufurd, and joined
the army in Spain the day after the battle of Talavera de la
Reyna, having made a forced march in good order, in
hopes of participating in that sanguinary battle, where they
found the remnant of those men who had been left sick or
wounded (in the battalion of detachments) in Portugal after
Vimiera, and who had been engaged at the passage of the
Douro near Oporto, and at Talavera. The 43rd had upwards of
one hundred men killed in that battle; and of officers, brigade
Major Gardner killed, and Lieutenant Brown wounded,—the
latter now commanding the second battalion Rifle brigade.








34


CHAPTER II.






Scene of embarkation for foreign service at Deal—A character—Force
and objects of the expedition—Arrival off Walcheren—Siege
and capture of Flushing—Disastrous sickness among
the troops—Evacuation of Walcheren, with the author's
adventure on the occasion—The return to England—Napoleon's
situation at that period.




In June 1809 we left Colchester with other
corps, for the purpose of embarkation; our route
lay through Chelmsford, Gravesend, Maidstone,
to Shorncliff barracks (in Kent) placed on the
summit of a hill extending to the verge of the
white cliffs overhanging the sea, and commanding
a clear view of the straits of Dover, and the
opposite coast of France.


On the 16th of July we marched through
Dover to Deal, where innumerable boats lined
the shore for the purpose of conveying troops
to the various ships anchored in the Downs for35
their reception. Large bodies of soldiers were
pouring into the town by all the roads to join the
vast armament about to rendez-vous at this point.
Hurrying into the boats, the hardy sailors pulled
away: the beach and the bay were covered with
thousands of soldiers, intermixed with the fair
daughters of Albion, who had come from afar
to witness this brilliant spectacle.


The army was in a fine state of discipline, and
filled with enthusiasm, while the ensigns of many
naval victories floated in the breeze from the
mast heads of those men of war, that had for
years swept the ocean, opened the whole commerce
of the world to this island, and filled the
coffers of England with almost inexhaustible
resources.


We had no sooner arrived on board the York
seventy four, commanded by Captain Barton,
than the usual bustle prevailed on such occasions,
which had in some measure subsided, when a
large fat man in a small boat was seen making
towards the ship, dressed in light fawn-coloured
breeches, white cotton stockings and shoes,
with a loose coat, evidently of provincial cut.
Coming alongside, he eagerly demanded the
number of the regiment on board, which proved
to be the identical one he was in search of; he
then mounted the side of the ship with breathless36
exertion, and attempted to bustle through the
crowd of soldiers huddled together. However,
the butt ends of some firelocks falling heavily
near his toes, formed a sufficient hint to arrest his
progress, and he was much confounded at
finding himself jostled amongst such a concourse
of troops for the first time in his life. After waiting
some time with intense anxiety, he at length
succeeded in clearing the way, crying out in
accents of one whose patience had been quite
exhausted by hopelessness of redress, "Will any
man in this ship have the goodness to point out
the Paymaster's berth? for really, gentlemen, I
have striven in vain to obtain an answer of the
many persons whom I have already addressed."
A voice from the crowd replied, "Why, there is
no such thing,"—at which unwelcome intelligence
the countenance of the applicant underwent a
painful transition from hope to despair.


While at anchor in the Downs, the wind blew
sufficiently strong to cause the unpleasant motion
of the ship which produces sea sickness, and,
being one of the junior officers, I was not so
fortunate as the Paymaster, who had secured a
berth, for I wandered for three days into different
quarters of the ship, in a state unnecessary
to describe to those who have experienced the
heaving of a ship at anchor. A midshipman37
about my own age kindly offered to provide me
with such accommodation as the cock-pit afforded,
which offer I thankfully accepted, in hopes of
at least getting into a quiet uninterrupted corner.
I had scarcely entered the hammock hung for my
reception, when I was assailed by quantities of
cock chafers crawling over my face, and under
the blankets, (the ship having just returned from
a cruise from the West Indies.)


The prodigious armament consisted of thirty-five
ships of the line; two of fifty guns, three of forty-four
guns; and one hundred and ninety-seven
sloops, bombs, and other armed small craft,—with
an army of thirty-nine thousand, two hundred
and nineteen men, including officers, all assembled
in the Downs on the 27th of July, 1809. The
whole were under the command of Rear-Adm. Sir
R. Strachan and Gen. the Earl of Chatham, in conjunction.
These Commanders sailed in the Venerable
at daylight, on the 28th of July, and arrived
in the East Kapelle roads, off the island of Walcheren on
that evening; but, owing to the boisterous
state of the weather, and contrary winds, a landing
could not be effected on the Domburg beach.
The other two divisions of the fleet followed in
succession from the Downs. The object of the
expedition was, to capture or destroy the enemy's
ships, building at Antwerp and Flushing, or afloat38
in the Scheldt; also the destruction of the arsenals
and dock-yards at Antwerp, Ternuese, and Flushing;
to reduce the island of Walcheren, and
render, if possible, the Scheldt no longer navigable
for ships of war; with directions to the commanders,
should they not be able to effect all
these objects, that after the reduction of Walcheren,
(which was to be kept possession of, and
a force left for its protection,) the remainder of the
troops were to be re-embarked, and to return to
England.


The island of Walcheren is thirty-four miles in
circumference, including St. Jootsland, and is
situated between the mouths of the East and
West Scheldt, inclosed by Cadzand on the south,
South Beveland and Wolfertsdyck on the east, and
North Beveland on the north east. Our division
of the fleet sailed from the Downs at half-past ten
o'clock a. m. on the 30th, and came to anchor
the next afternoon, in the East-Kapelle roads off
Walcheren, when we observed the mortar and gun-vessels
keeping up a heavy fire on the small town
of Ter Veere, whilst a small body of English
troops were lying behind the sand-hills, keeping
watch on the road towards Middelburg, the capital
of the island. Part of the fleet had already
entered the Veere Gat, and had landed a large
force, with three divisions of sailors (three hundred)39
the day before, at half-past four in the
afternoon, on the Bree-sand, a little more than a
mile west of Fort de Haak, the fire of which had
been previously silenced by the gun-boats and
mortars. The peaceable inhabitants sent a deputation
from Middelburg to the head-quarters; the
army advanced the next day, the 1st of August,
and took possession of that place, drove the enemy
into Flushing, and took from them some field-pieces.


Gen. Sir John Hope landed his divisions in
South Beveland the same day, and took possession
of Ter Goes, the capital of the island, which is
thirty-five miles long. The French fleet had retired
beyond the chain which was drawn across
the Scheldt near Fort Lillo. On the 3d, a few
vessels were observed leaving Flushing; some
boats were sent in chase; the weather was fine,
the wind S.S.W., and the flood tide nearly down,
which gave every hope of their effecting a safe
return. The Raven sloop of war went to their
protection, when the enemy's vessels again retreated
into Flushing. The wind suddenly flew
west in a squall, first blowing hard and then
baffling. The boats got safe off, but the fire continued
on the sloop for four hours without intermission,
round shot passing through her from
the Breskens batteries, and grape dropping on40
board from the ramparts of Flushing. She suffered
severely in the hull, masts, and rigging, and had
two guns dismounted, the top-mast shot away
above the lower caps, the main-mast, bowsprit,
and main-boom, rendered unserviceable, the sails
and rigging completely cut in pieces, and her
Commander, Capt. Hanchett, and eight men,
wounded. Night coming on, she grounded on
the Ellboog; at daybreak two brigs were sent
to her assistance, and at seven she floated.


The enemy were very apprehensive lest our
army should make an attempt to pass the East
Scheldt, near Zandvliet, opposite fort Bathz, which
they attacked on the 5th with twenty-eight gun-boats,
but were driven off by the batteries. The
weather continued so bad until the 7th, the wind
blowing S.W. and S.S.W., that the sea blockade
of Flushing could not be accomplished, and the
enemy continued to convey their wounded soldiers
to Cadzand, and also threw one thousand men across
the Scheldt, one mile and three-quarters, to reinforce
the town. At half-past five o'clock in the
evening of the 7th the enemy made a sortie on
the right of the line from Flushing, but were
repulsed and pushed back at the point of the
bayonet. While all these things were going on,
our regiment had been removed from the line-of-battle
ship into small craft, and anchored in the41
Sloe passage, between Walcheren and South Beveland.
On the morning of the 9th, ours, the light
brigade, composed of the second battalions of the
43rd, 52nd, and the Rifle corps, part of Earl Rosslyn's
division (two thousand and twenty-two men)
were under the command of Major Gen. Stewart.
He considered, from the nature of the service we
were likely to be employed on, and probably cut
off from our baggage by dykes and rivers, that
small black knapsacks, with brown straps, would
prove of essential service to the officers: for these
we had paid half-a-guinea each, previously to our
leaving England. However, subsequently, as he
expected us to carry them at brigade field-days,
some little discussion arose on that head, behind
a wind-mill.


A day's salt pork and biscuit being served out,
and all the officers with their knapsacks strapped
on their backs, we began our march; the day
was extremely sultry, without a breath of air;
the road was perfectly flat, as well as the whole
face of the country, which was intersected with
ditches, covered with a thick ooze or vegetable
substance, and high dykes rising on each side of
the way. The Paymaster had joined the column,
as the place of the greatest security. As guns
from the gun-boats were sounding at intervals, in
front and rear, we persuaded him that it was42
probable we might become engaged without any
previous warning, by a front, flank, or rear attack,
which information, added to the heat of the
atmosphere, put him into such a state of perspiration,
that when we halted, a liquid stream of
hot water poured from his forehead, such as
I have never before, nor since beheld; added to
which, his tailor had fitted his corpulent sides to
a nicety, although equal praise could not be
bestowed on his hatter, who had manufactured
his cap so large, that it fell over his face like an
extinguisher, and the worst of it was, both his
hands were occupied; in his right he held his
wig and drenched pocket-handkerchief, while his
left was in momentary request to disentangle his
sabre from betwixt his legs. "Well," said he,
with a good-tempered smile, "if ever I knew any
thing like this!" and, notwithstanding his uncomfortable
plight, he cracked his jokes, and proved
himself a man of more ready wit, and possessing
a greater fund of anecdote and humorous stories,
than any one I ever met with, so that he became
a general favourite throughout the regiment: but
such a figure in a light infantry jacket! such
skirts, with pockets large enough to have stowed
away half the striplings of the corps! When the
brigade was put in motion, he remained in the
middle of the way, as they passed him right and43
left, and waited for the light waggons carrying our
baggage; then stowing himself comfortably away
in one of them, he was brought to our cantonments
perfectly sick of campaigning.


As we passed along, we were much struck at
the great cleanliness of the cottages, and at the
contented air of the well-dressed peasantry. The
females were decorated with silver or gold ornaments
about their persons, and many of them
wore a plate of the same metal across their
foreheads. The little boys of five or six years
old held pipes in their mouths, smoking with all
the gravity of men, and wore their hair long
behind, broad-brimmed hats, brown jackets, short
breeches, shoes, and silver buckles, precisely
similar to the elders. We passed through Ter-Goes,
a fine old brick town, surrounded by earth
ramparts and a wet ditch; it opened its gates
without making any resistance to Sir John Hope's
corps.


Continuing our march half a league farther on,
we arrived at the clean village of Cloting, containing
a good church, and a handsome house in
the centre of it, which was the residence of the
Burgomaster; we took up our quarters in the
different houses, and the men in the spacious
handsome barns, painted green, such as may be
seen near gentlemen's houses in England. Five44
companies of our regiment were detached to another
village. The humble dwellings of the peasantry
bore an air of comfort, and the abundantly
supplied dairies, paved with well washed tiles,
presented a freshness seldom exhibited among the
poorer classes of other countries.—A considerable
flotilla proceeded to Bathz, where they arrived on
the 11th; the enemy attacked the fort with two
frigates, one bearing a Vice Admiral's flag, thirty
brigs, eight luggers, one schooner, and fourteen
gun boats; at the expiration of a smart firing, they
were beaten off, leaving six gun boats aground,
five being destroyed, and one brought in. In
the afternoon of the same day, Capt. Lord W.
Stuart, commanding the Lavinia and nine other
frigates, availed himself of a light breeze from the
westward, (notwithstanding the tide was against
the proceeding,) sailed up the west Scheldt, and
passed the batteries between Cadzand and Flushing;
the ships were under the enemy's fire for
nearly two hours, without any material accident,
with the exception of a shell striking the L'Aigle,
and falling through her decks into the bread-room,
where it exploded: one man was killed and four
wounded, and her stern frame much shattered.
The Amethyst got aground after passing Flushing.


On the 13th, the batteries before Flushing
being completed, and some frigates and bombs45
having taken their station, a fire was opened at
half past one p.m. from upwards of fifty pieces of
heavy ordnance, including mortars and howitzers,
which was vigorously returned by the enemy; an
additional battery was finished during the night, of
six twenty-four-pounders, (worked by sailors,)
and the whole continued to play on the town; until
late on the following day. At half-past ten on the
morning of the 14th, the following line of battle
ships (anchored in the Duerlo passage) got under
weigh: the St. Domingo, Blake, Repulse, Victorious,
Denmark, Audacious, and Venerable,—and
ranged along the sea-front of the town, led in by
Rear-Admiral Sir R. Strachan; but before they
had opened their fire, the wind came more
southerly, and the St. Domingo grounded inside
the Dog-land; an officer, not knowing her situation,
passed inside of her, by which means the
Blake also grounded; the other ships were ordered
to haul off to anchor as at first intended. The
Domingo was soon got off, and the Blake became
again afloat, and came to anchor with the rest of
the squadron; the ships continued to ply the
enemy with a furious cannonade until four in the
afternoon, when the town presented a vast conflagration,
burning in all quarters. The firing
having nearly ceased from the ramparts, Gen.
Monnet, the Governor was summoned to surrender,46
but he having given an evasive answer,
hostilities recommenced and continued until two
o'clock in the morning of the 15th, when the
enemy demanded a suspension of arms, and within
an hour the Governor surrendered the town,
(when two detachments of the Royals and 71st
regiments took possession of its gates,) and the
whole of the garrison, prisoners of war, besides
those already taken in the different forts and
islands of Walcheren, South Beveland, Shouwen,
Duivland, Brouwershaven, and Zierigkzee, with
all the valuable stores therein. The loss in killed,
wounded, and missing of the British, during the
siege, was about seven hundred and twenty, including
officers.


From this moment offensive operations seemed
at an end: we were surrounded with abundance,
our days were occupied in the sports of the field,
our evenings passed at each others' quarters in
idle and pleasant conversation, pay was issued
almost to the day that it was due. Provisions of
all descriptions were offered for sale at a very low
rate: tea, sugar, and coffee, were not half the price
of the same in England; wines, brandy, hollands,
and liqueurs, might be purchased for a mere trifle;
and fat fowls or ducks for tenpence the pair.
In this land of plenty we were lulled into a fatal
security, for, about the 20th, the soldiers fell ill,47
staggered, and dropped in the ranks, seized by
dreadful fevers10, and with such rapidity did this
malady extend, that in fourteen days, twelve
thousand and eighty six soldiers were in hospital
on board ship, or sent to England; the deaths were
numerous, and sometimes sudden; convalescence
hardly ever secure; the disorders ultimately destroying
the constitution, and causing eventually the
destruction of thousands in far distant climes.


The natives now became ill, and informed us
that one-third of them were confined to their
beds every autumn until the frosty weather set in,
which checked the exhalations from the earth,
and gave new tone to their debilitated frames, and
thereby stopped the progress of the complaint.
Independently of the records of the unhealthiness
of these islands, where every object depicts it in the
most forcible manner, the bottom of every canal
that has communication with the sea is thickly
covered with an ooze, which, when the tide is
out, emits a most offensive effluvium; and every
ditch that is filled with water, is loaded with
animal and vegetable substances. If persons
living in these islands from their infancy, who
practise a cleanliness that cannot be excelled,48
and live in good houses, cannot prevent the effects
of the climate, it may readily be supposed how
much more a foreign army must suffer. The
inhabitants informed us, that in the preceding
autumn, two hundred French troops were quartered
in the village, out of whom one hundred and
sixty had the fever, and seventy of them died.


Our landing had excited a great sensation in
the north of France; so much so, that numerous
corps of the national guards marched to the
succour of Antwerp, only garrisoned when we
first made our descent on the coast with three
thousand men, besides the eight thousand sailors
on board the fleet, that had retired up the Scheldt.
Many of the national guards suffered from the
climate, and shortly returned to their families
with ruined constitutions.


The town of Flushing, after the siege, presented
a deplorable appearance, with many houses burnt
down, and most of them unroofed, and scarcely
supplying sufficient covering for the sick soldiers,
who continued to increase so fast, that ten inhabitants
to each regiment were requested to assist as
attendants in the hospitals; the medical officers
were extremely harrassed, numbers of them became
incapable of attending on their patients,
being themselves seized by the same fatal malady,
so that, as the fever gained ground, the doctors49
diminished in numbers. At one period, four hundred
and ninety-eight soldiers died in a fortnight
in Walcheren, which place the Austrians were
very solicitous our troops should continue to
occupy as long as any chance remained for them
against Napoleon, who was at this time in the
very heart of their empire.


Early in September, while at dinner, a sudden
order reached us to move towards the coast, when
we instantly packed up and reached the beach in
two hours, where the troops began their embarkation.
The captain of the company, with agitated
looks, ran towards me, and told me that, in the
hurry of moving off, he had left the whole of his
company's books in the corner of the room we had
occupied, and that the commanding officer had
most positively refused him permission to fetch
them. Under these circumstances, and at his
urgent entreaties, and promises to have a boat in
waiting on my return, I undertook the unpleasant
excursion, and, rapidly retracing my steps, I re-entered
the village at a quick pace, in little more
than an hour; it appeared quite tranquil, as if no
foreigners had ever been amongst them. One or
two natives only were looking from their windows.
A sudden thought now struck me that I might
be seized and made prisoner, which caused me
much uneasiness; but yet to decamp without50
accomplishing my object, was sorely against the
grain with me. While assailed by such conjectures,
I entered the door of the house that we had previously
occupied, which I found open, and saw the
contented inmates enjoying a comfortable meal,
nor did they evince the least surprise at my
reappearance. Without uttering a word, and
passing into the inner apartment, I seized the
books, (the dinner was still untouched on the table
exactly as we had left it,) and with hasty strides
repassed the room where the family were seated,
making a slight inclination of the head: they
half rose at seeing me loaded; but not a syllable
was exchanged between us. Some of the inhabitants
had now come out of their houses, and
regarded me with suspicious looks: I feigned indifference;
but no sooner cleared the village, than I
started almost at speed, and had made great
progress, when I espied at a distance the light
waggons and fat hollow-backed horses, with flowing
manes and tails, returning from the beach at
a trot; and, being aware that the soldiers were
not very ceremonious on these occasions, I was
apprehensive the drivers of these vehicles might
be disposed to treat me in the same manner,
or probably take me back as a hostage. I therefore
concealed myself behind a bank until they
should have passed by. Night soon came on,51
but I could descry the lights in the ships' tops,
and, in my hurry to follow their direction, I took
the wrong road, which led me into a field where
it ended. However, with the hope that a short
way farther would enable me to reach the beach,
I darted onwards, and found a broad ditch impeding
my farther progress. It was in vain I ran
up and down in search of a narrow part; in almost
a fit of desperation, I hurled the books across, one
after the other, tried my footing, retired some
paces, and, at a run, sprang across it with the
greatest exertion, while a momentary joy gleamed
over my countenance, on mounting a bank, to find
myself at the water's edge. The lights were still
stationary, but not a boat to be seen. Owing to
my great exertions and haste in passing over
fourteen miles of ground, I was in a profuse
perspiration, which was soon succeeded by a cold
shivering, such as I imagined was the disorder
incidental to this swampy country. I feared that I
should be left to perish before I could reach the
ship; a heavy dew fell, and I was almost perishing
with cold, having no other covering than my
light infantry jacket, sash, and pantaloons,
without drawers or a waistcoat of any sort. Frequently
I was forced to run up and down to keep
my blood in circulation, and my teeth from
chattering. In this manner, alternately sitting,52
running, or casting my eye towards the lights,
which, at times, and in the exuberance of my
fancy, I thought were receding, I passed the
dreary hours of the night. At daybreak, some
sailors pulling in shore, discovered my flying
pocket handkerchief, and came to my relief, and,
after a considerable pull, we found the regiment
on board the Ganges. Then, giving my last dollar
to the sailors for grog, I mounted the side of the
ship, and descended into the ward-room, where I
found the officers scattered about, and lying on a
main-sail, that had been spread out for their
accommodation. Delivering the books to the
owner, I was fully determined never again to
volunteer such a Quixotic excursion. The officer
assured me that all his endeavours to procure
a boat had been unavailing.


The next day two hundred sick soldiers and
officers were removed on board small craft to
proceed to England, and, as I happened to be one
of those for detachment, we left the line-of-battle
ship, went on board a transport, and steered
our course for the Downs, where we arrived
in two days, and cast anchor for forty-eight hours,
then again got under weigh, and buffeted about
for four days more, between the Downs and
Harwich, where we landed our sick soldiers and
officers. When we were stepping on shore, a53
countryman, looking towards us, exclaimed,
"There goes the King's hard bargains."


The evening we landed, a fine healthy-looking
young serjeant brought me the orderly-book,—and,
on visiting the hospital at ten
o'clock the next morning, I heard he had been
dead one hour. So much for the Walcheren malady!
In fact, the most fatal battle could hardly
have made such havock in our ranks. Thus, in
the short space of seven months, the English
coast had been inundated with sick soldiers and
scattered regiments from the Land's-end to Yarmouth.
Walcheren was finally evacuated in the
end of December.


Napoleon had humbled his rivals, had ridden out
the storm raised against him, and repulsed all his
enemies. Pope Pius the VIIth had indeed thundered
forth a spiritual excommunication against him
and his followers at the beginning of the Austrian
campaign; but he had unluckily fallen into the
power of his temporal master, who, seated in the
saloon of the Palace of the Tuileries, was meditating
new conquests, and weaving silken cords
for the Emperor of Austria's daughter.




10 The sailors on board ship did not suffer much from the
malady.








54


CHAPTER III.






Progress of distemper on the re-landing of the regiment in England—Change
of quarters—Amusements—Colchester—An
eventful water party—The author obtains leave to join the
detachment proceeding to Portugal—A Review—A tale of
dental dislocation—Embarkation at Spithead—Landing in
Portugal—Incidents of an evening—Amusements at Lisbon,
and departure from that city.




The regiment soon re-landed in England, and
marched to Colchester, where a vast number of
the men died, of ours as well as all the other corps,
thereby keeping the clergy in constant requisition
to repeat the funeral service over the rudely-shaped
coffins of the dead soldiers. Nearly the whole
of the corps to which I belonged were laid up
with ague and fever, to such a degree, that those
able to walk and the few fit for duty were removed
to Sudbury, for the benefit of change of
air. This proved very beneficial and restored
the strength of those who had not been very
badly affected with the malady.


55


At the expiration of two months we were able
to muster again about two hundred, out of six,
fit for duty. Those officers whose health was
sufficiently re-established frequented the balls
at Bury St. Edmunds, which were extremely well
attended by the neighbouring families; added to
these, occasional jaunts and a few private parties
made the time pass pleasantly enough until we
were ordered to Weeley Barracks, where we
spent a sombre winter, (with two other regiments)
which passed without any occurrence
worth mentioning, except that of the garrison
being called out to fire a feu de joie in celebration
of George the Third's having reigned over this
country for fifty years.


In the spring we shifted our quarters to Colchester,
being perfectly sickened of our rustic
amusements of shooting larks, skating, or pacing
up and down a solitary barrack-square of great
extent, and surrounded by a rich grass country,
without any thing worthy the appellation of a village
for a considerable distance.


Soon afterwards myself and another officer went
to Portsmouth to receive volunteers. The officers
of a regiment invited us to dine with them at Gosport,
and so plied us with peppered turkeys' legs,
devilled biscuits and port wine, that we were unable
to beat a retreat until two o'clock in the morning.56
On reaching the ferry, there was not a boat to be
seen; wherefore, from necessity, we were reduced to
content ourselves with a seat on some stone steps,
and there to await the rising sun, whose beams
no sooner crimsoned the western hemisphere, than
we hailed the first morning ferry boat, and
reached our lodging, right glad to quaff a smoking
cup of coffee in order to settle our stomachs from
the last night's debauch. In a few days we left
the rustic vicinity of Portsmouth, and reached the
red-bricked town of Colchester, where our time
passed in such amusements as are usually practised
at a provincial quarter and are so well known
to most of the British army, who have had the
honor of promenading up and down its pavé.


One day a water party was talked of, and no sooner
proposed than put into execution. A boat was
procured and rowers selected—the rest of the
party being armed with fowling pieces for the
destruction of gulls and carrion crows, or such
other birds as might chance to cross us during
our acquatic excursion on the river Colne. The
boat being put in motion, after an hour's hard
pull, the river became considerably wider, the
tide was on the ebb, the weather propitious, and
so much way made, that we resolved to obtain
a glimpse of the sea, which soon being accomplished,
we pulled in shore, made good our landing,57
and selected the most rural spot to partake
of those viands prepared for the occasion, which,
being spread out on nature's green carpet,
were speedily devoured by eight hungry young
officers, and every bottle of wine and brown stout
emptied to the very dregs. The party, full of hilarity,
then returned to their slender bark; but
great was our surprise to find it high and dry,
the tide nearly out, and only a narrow stream
remaining of the spacious Colne water we had
quitted a few hours before. A launch being necessary,
our jackets and caps were hurled into
the boat, and, by the most strenuous exertions, it
was shoved through the mud, and again afloat; then
rapidly plying our oars, we made some progress,
notwithstanding that the tide was still running
out; when at length the water entirely failed,
leaving us aground, amid channel, with extensive
banks of mud rising to a considerable height on
each side of us,—the sight of which afforded much
mirth at the idea of our having rowed during
high tide over hill and dale; so much for our
geographical knowledge and nautical skill! While
in this plight, one of the party was in the act of
divesting himself of superfluous dress, and tying
the articles into a bundle, pleading in excuse
that an appointment with a fair damsel obliged
him to land. A noisy debate ensued amongst us:58
by way of intimidating him at the same time, a
threat was added, that should he attempt to desert,
some small shot should be discharged at
him. While we were loading the guns, he sprang
from the bark and scrambled some yards, assailed
by the vociferations of the party; but, before
he had reached the prescribed distance, twenty
yards, his situation became most alarming: every
succeeding step, he sank deeper into the mire;
and he was now up to his middle, calling out for
help, forty yards from us, and one hundred from
the shore. To return was impossible,—the
fowling pieces dropped from our hands, as we
watched his motions in fearful anxiety, every
instant expecting to see him disappear. Despair
gave him strength and perseverance: but he
became a mass of mud, and his features were
no longer distinguishable. I can truly assert,
that at no period of my life did I ever feel
stronger feelings of commiseration; a hundred
weight seemed at my chest. In this way he
continued his exertions, and, from time to time,
while resting, it could scarcely be ascertained
whether he was not gone altogether, so identified
was he with the mud. Again he moved, and
at the expiration of half an hour's toil, he emerged
from his miry bed, presenting the appearance of
an alligator, after a wallowing immersion, more59
than any thing else! As he reached the shore,
the most unbounded expressions of joy on our part
hailed his deliverance from his perilous situation.
Then, spreading out his bundle of garments in a
very dirty state, he put them on, waved his hand,
and speedily vanished from our view—whilst we,
less adventurous, or not being so particularly engaged
on that evening, were left shivering and
lightly clothed, until some time after dark, when
we had sufficient depth of water to enable us to
steer our course. When at length in motion, the
wind being astern, the only cloak amongst us
was hoisted by way of a sail, but it was long after
midnight before we reached the place from whence
we had started.


About this time (June 1, 1811), three hundred
and twenty men of the second battalion, with
a proportionate number of officers, were ordered
to proceed to Portsmouth for embarkation to
join the first battalion in Portugal. On the
morning of their departure the bugles sounded
the march. My mortification was extreme, for positively
the last officer was selected to accompany
them, and two of my seniors stood by my side,
who of course had a prior claim to mine, and who
could not succeed in obtaining permission to
go; so that all hope for me seemed now entirely to
vanish, and we were obliged to content ourselves60
by accompanying them a short way on the road,
until their first halt,—the merry notes of the horns
striking up "over the hills and far away," the
signal for wives to be torn from their husbands,
children from their fathers, friends from their
companions,—many bidding a long and last farewell.
The detachment followed the broad path
of their profession, while we, through dire necessity,
took that which led to peace and pasturage
amongst the Essex graziers; but no sooner had
we reached our quiet quarters, than another consultation
took place, between Lieutenants the
Honourable Charles Gore, Wilkinson, and myself,
wherein we pledged ourselves, that the trio
should not be separated for individual interest,
(and, as I was the junior officer, that point was
of consequence to me); then hastening to the
house of the senior officer, we assailed him ensemble
by entreaties and arguments, until, finding
we were bent on carrying our point, he consented
to forward a memorial to the Duke of
York, penned by us, which he signed. That
done, we ran down to the post office, popped it
into the box, and by return of post a favourable
answer was given. What a moment! Gore and
myself rubbed our hands and the little corporal
Wilky (for that rank he had borne at the Military
College at Marlow, and still continued the61
title), fell on his knees and returned thanks to
Heaven, for his good fortune. Our heavy baggage
was crammed into the store, and ourselves,
with light hearts, that evening proceeded to
London.


Notwithstanding the usual hurry and preparation
when going on foreign service, I managed to
find my way to Wimbledon Common, where, I
heard, a grand review was to take place on the
10th of June of the household cavalry, a brigade
of hussars, commanded by Lord Paget, (now
Marquis of Anglesea), a brigade of the foot
guards, a battalion of foot artillery, wearing cross
belts and white pouches, armed with muskets,
and a multitude of volunteers, besides a proportionable
train of artillery. When the Prince
Regent rode down the line, I was much struck
at the Duke of York's preceding him, dismounting
in front of the two regiments of foot guards,
and standing with his sword across his body,
while his royal brother passed. This was an excellent
example of discipline, so like the prince,
the soldier, and the gentleman.


The next day, leaving the metropolis, we arrived
at the place of embarkation, and so managed
as to meet the detachment about the same
distance from Portsmouth, that we had left them
on the road from Colchester; being not a little62
anxious to observe the astonishment that our
unexpected reappearance would create amongst
them.


My friend instantly ran towards me and expressed
the happiness he felt at meeting me in
such a way; and, almost in the same breath, said,
"Oh! we have had such fun this morning!" On
leaving Chichester at the break of day, the head of
the column had been thrown into the greatest confusion
by the assistant surgeon; "Halt! halt!"
cried he, "stop, pray stop; you are trampling on
my teeth," at the same moment throwing himself
on the ground, and groping in the dust for four
artificial teeth that had dropped from his mouth.
The officers and soldiers were confounded at his
exclamations, while the wondering circle encompassed
him in mute expectation. At length, having
put several questions, to which they only
obtained confused and unintelligible answers, an
officer ordered the men to proceed; and several
voices, joining in chorus, exclaimed:—"Why, he's
mad; the doctor's intellects are impaired;"—for
they did not fully comprehend his real loss, owing
to his wild incoherent and extraordinary gesticulations—nor
did he overtake the party or make
his reappearance until they had halted at the half-way
house, where he found them seated round a
smoking tea urn, hot muffins, toast, chickens,63
ham, and all those little delicacies so tempting
after an early walk to those possessing youth,
health, and good grinders. The woe-begone
countenance of the doctor, on his entering the
room, caused a momentary commiseration; but
no sooner did he open his mouth, and display the
vacant orifice, which no longer left any doubt of
the nature of the loss he had sustained, than bursts
of merriment, and noisy pity, were the only consolation
the unlucky and crest-fallen medico
received—who merely vented his wrath in broken
monosyllables, no longer daring to trust his mouth
with a laugh.


The Monarch transport of three masts, and
of considerable tonnage, was lying at anchor at
Spithead for our reception. Nearly the whole of us
being embarked, and the Blue Peter flying at the
mast head on the 18th, there was a sufficient warning
to the few left on shore to hasten on board. The
sails being hoisted, and spreading their white bosoms
to the gale, we cut through the water, with a
spanking breeze, cleared the Needles, and, steering
a prosperous course, in three days were brought
into the Bay of Biscay. The wind howled, the
vessel heaved and cracked, one instant on high,
and the next moment hurried downwards as if
about to be ingulphed and buried in the mighty
waters; the huge waves lashed and beat against64
her sides with foaming violence, whilst every loose
article rattled about the cabin; the strife of pots
and kettles being only interrupted by the smashing
of cups and saucers, and other brittle utensils.
During this combination of sounds I lay in my
berth, with a wash-hand basin betwixt my legs,
ready at a moment's warning, and with my eyes,
half-closed, fixed on a solitary candle, sliding to
and fro on the table, and threatening to extinguish
itself into one of the lower berths. Thus stretched
out, and sinking into a disturbed and feverish
slumber, I soon again awoke with my tongue
parched, a horrible taste in my mouth, and my
lips glewed together, counting the tedious hours
of the coming morn, till I should be enabled
to procure a refreshing glass of water. At last the
happy moment arrived, my trembling hand was
put forth to grasp the liquid stream—my mouth
opened—but my nose gave warning of that which
smelt and tasted like the Harrowgate Spa, and
was any thing but aqua pura. The next evening I
made an effort to gain my sea legs, crept out of
the cabin, mounted on the deck, and slipped and
staggered towards a poultry-coop, on which I
sank in a reclining position, to inhale the freshness
of the air. The dark and broad clouds flitted
past, and at intervals veiled the moon, which
seemed flying away in the opposite direction, and65
smiling in derision at our clumsy progress, (with
double reefed topsails,) over the troubled waves.
Perpetual motion seemed at last accomplished,
as the bows and stern of the vessels rose alternately,
and in rapid succession. In the morning
a thick haze hung over the atmosphere,
through which we could discern the outlines of
the ponderous mountains of Spain, rising one
above the other, until their gloomy shadows were
lost to view in the interior.


On the tenth morning, with a gentle breeze, and
spotless sky, we glided along the rugged coast of
Portugal, and observed a number of barks making
towards us, decorated with white flapping sails,
and filled with swarthy raggamuffin pilots, who
were hallooing, pulling, and hauling at each other
in a confused way, which gave the frail bark the appearance
of being about to overturn keel uppermost,
and leave its brown visaged cocked-hatted navigators
floundering and splashing for their existence
in the briny waves of the dark blue ocean. Shortly
afterwards we entered the sparkling waters of the
Tagus, skirted by purple-capt mountains, curling
vines, fragrant orange groves, and a white city, reflected
in its glassy waters, canopied by an azure
sky, a golden sun, and a genial atmosphere. We
dropped our anchor within a short distance of Lisbon.


The following day, the 28th, we landed, and66
the soldiers took up their quarters at the Convento
di Carmo. The interior of the city by no means
corresponds with the exterior, as viewed at a distance,
owing to the general narrowness of the streets
that are choked up in some places with heaps of
filth, continually stirred up, and eagerly devoured
by packs of prowling and half-famished dogs.


Towards evening a small piece of paper was
handed to myself and friend, with the name of
a Portuguese inserted, at whose house we were to
be quartered. Having made the necessary inquiries
of a bragging native, he pointed out to us
the direction we ought to take, and also made motions,
by way of intimating to us our good fortune
in having so spacious an abode for our accommodation.
Having traversed over a great portion
of the town, in search of our billet, we at
length came to a large gloomy-looking mansion,
the door of which we found open, and ascended
a dirty stone stair case, where at each landing-place
we found ponderous doors: but it was in
vain we kicked, thumped, and called; the echo
of our own voices was the only answer returned.


Night coming on, we again sallied forth into
the streets, and, while passing near a church,
we met a procession following a deceased nobleman
for interment. Large wax tapers being offered
to us, about four feet long, and thick in proportion,67
we each grasped one, and entered the church
with others. The lid of the coffin being removed,
we beheld the pale corpse attired in a magnificent
satin dress, and mantle superbly embroidered
with gold: the pantaloons were of white silk,
and full satin rosettes were attached to the
velvet shoes. A full-dress court sword lay by
his side, and a black hat of velvet, with a nodding
plume of ostrich feathers, looped up with a brilliant
stone, rested at the head of the coffin.
His costume, in short, was similar to that worn
by Don Juan on our own stage. The ceremony
being concluded, a man stepped forward with a
basket filled with quick lime, which he threw
on the dead body in the presence of the spectators:
that done, all the by-standers instantly retired,
and gave up their tapers to persons waiting to
receive them at the church door.


Much fatigued, we returned, and reached the
cloisters of the convent, in search of our servants
and baggage. While we were debating on
the best method of securing a place of rest for the
night, an athletic figure came stalking towards
us, enveloped in the garments of a friar, having
a fine dark countenance, and jet black hair cut
short and shaved on the crown of his head, about
two inches in diameter. He demanded how it was
that we seemed wandering about at so late an68
hour of the night. We briefly informed him of
our situation, when he most courteously invited us
to follow him and led us through several passages
and up many flights of stairs to a couple of small
bed rooms at the very top of the convent; then
retired for a short time, and re-appeared, loaded
with wine and sweetmeats. My friend had previously
been in the country, and therefore could
make himself understood; and, as he was acting
quarter-master (at eighteen) for the detachment,
he was glad of this opportunity which now
offered to be near the men, to enable him to superintend
the serving out of rations early on the
following morning. Our host proved to be the
abbot, and after a short conversation he wished
us a sound repose to follow our sea voyage, and
retired.


During our stay at Lisbon, we made a point
of seeing the handsome churches, the opera, the
grand aqueduct and other curiosities. The night
previously to our quitting this place, the Consul
gave a ball, to which we were invited; and I was
surprised to observe the Portuguese gentlemen
in coloured clothes, with pink and various-coloured
silk stockings. The costume of the ladies was
gaudy, but their dresses were ill made and worse
put on. We only danced one set, and, some
hours having elapsed without any appearance of69
supper, (which was of serious consideration to us,
as we were ordered to be on the banks of the
Tagus the next morning at day light for the
purpose of embarking in boats for Villada, some
distance up the river,) I explored a suite of
rooms at the extremity of which I espied on a sideboard
a huge dish filled with wafer cakes: but,
not wishing to attack such a prize without an
ally, I hastened to my companion to communicate
my good luck, who, without further ado,
assisted at their demolition. Although they
were the largest of the kind I had ever before
seen, our young teeth cracked them with an
extraordinary rapidity; smash! smash! they went,
and two layers had now disappeared, when
a Portuguese attendant out of livery, observing
such dreadful havoc, advanced to their rescue,
assuring us with solemn physiognomy that
they were reserved for the ladies. Hostilities
ceased on their protector's consenting to procure
us a bottle of wine, two goblets of which we
hastily swallowed, and instantly sallied out into
the odoriferous streets. "Agua fresca, agua
fresca" resounded from all quarters, while
buckets of the most nauseous contents fell with
a splash from the upper stories of houses into the
space below—like the bursting of water spouts.
"Conceal yourself," cried my friend, "or you70
will be scented and sprinkled all over." In this
manner, running the gauntlet at every turning,
we proceeded until we reached the dark and narrow
flight of stairs leading to our heavenly
apartments, where we had no sooner entered than
I put my foot on the body of a man, who lay
stretched at full length across the doorway. I
hung back, and we regroping our way down into
the court yard, and alarming the guard, lights were
procured: the rays of the lamp fell on the face
of my drunken snoring servant, encircled with
bottles—having emptied the contents into his own
stomach. From the effects of this he had scarcely
recovered at the hour of our departure, leaving
me the agreeable task of packing up, and seeing
my mule safe off, as the baggage and animals
were to cross the grand lines of Torres Vedras,
and meet us at the place of disembarkation.


Passing through the principal streets, we entered
the boats for our conveyance (after a stay
of eleven days at Lisbon) and landed in the evening
at Villada.






71


CHAPTER IV.






March to Santarem and Abrantes—Scenery and incidents at
Aronches—Junction with some other regiments—Military
scene in a wood—Anticipatory reflections on the fate of
some of the author's comrades—Quarters at Portalagre,
Castello de Vida and Marvao—Bridge of boats across the
Tagus—Contiguous scenery—Horrors of travelling for invalids
in the Portuguese cars.




Our animals and baggage having joined us the
next day, we took the road towards Santarem, and
about dusk reached the causeway leading up a steep
hill into the town, where the French, previously to
their retreat under Marshal the Prince of Essling11,
had thrown the dead from their hospitals into the
wells,—the idea of which caused such horrible
thoughts, that we could scarcely summon up sufficient
resolution to drink while at that place.


The excessive heat of the following day having
somewhat subsided, towards the cool of the
evening we began our march, but, by some unaccountable72
accident, took the wrong road for upwards
of a league before the mistake was found
out. Retreading our steps, we at length regained
the identical spot from whence we had previously
started nearly three hours before; glancing my
eye towards the battlements of the town, a smile
prophetic passed my countenance, that I should
not again behold its turrets. Turning our backs,
and pursuing the right road, we gaily tramped
along toward Golegam; and, as the morning
dawned, I was loudly knocking for admittance at
the door of a small house, on the confines of the
church-yard, that was strewed with skulls which
had been torn from the sepulchres and graves, in
search of gold, by the French soldiery.


After the usual halt we pursued our march
through Punhete to Abrantes, where two of us
were nearly carried away amongst the quicksands,
while bathing in the river Tagus, and only
reached the shore by making the greatest efforts.
Various individuals had been drowned at this
place by the current.


Having halted here one whole day, we crossed
over the bridge of boats to the southern province of
the Alentejo, and entered Gaviao, where I was billeted
in a very poor house. At night I entered a
recess, much fatigued, and, upon quitting the mattrass
in the morning, the bugs had made such a feast
on my right leg from the hip to the very sole of73
my foot, so that I could scarcely walk, and was
in a most dreadful state of irritation.


Passing onwards in our march, on the ninth day,
we ascended a high hill on the summit of which
stood Aronches, commanding an extensive prospect
over a diversified sandy country, intersected
with forests, vineyards, rocks, and small fields
of Indian corn, and encompassed by dilapidated
walls formed of loose stones carelessly heaped
one on another without mortar. The streets of
the town were narrow, and almost deserted, with
huge shapeless rocks at every few yards, rearing
their heads, and blocking up the way, whilst a
solitary Portuguese was seen striking an old battered
guitar with all his fingers (as on a tambourine)
and hallooing forth some ditty loud enough to
be heard in the distant valleys. The heat of the
day was quite overpowering, the firmament was
of heavenly blue, while the sun shone forth in
full splendour, forcing us to retire to some shady
spot from its scorching rays, and to take some
repose after the fatigues of the march.


Towards the close of the evening we again
stood on the ramparts to inhale the cool and delicious
air. The shades of night had scarcely
hidden the face of the country from our view,
when the moon, rising in all her grandeur, threw
a pale light around, and tipped with silver the74
battlements of those venerable towers built by
the Moors, which for centuries had endured, and
had frowned defiance on the flitting shadows of
many generations, gliding by their grey walls unheeded
and forgotten. As we gazed in sweet contemplation
on the surrounding scenery, all nature
seemed hushed, and the universe sunk into
slumber, when suddenly the bell of a monastery
close at hand tolled loudly, and in the gentle
breeze, at intervals, we heard the solemn dirge of a
religious procession, which, by degrees, arose on the
ear, and gradually encreasing became louder, and
swelled into such an awful bass strain, as one might
conceive to inspire reflection in the firm, horrors
in the nervous, and all the terrors of purgatory in
the dying. The long procession of monks passed
us, wrapped in their sombre drapery, as if they
had emerged from the very bowels of the earth.
The scene was impressive. After we had retired,
my slumbers were disturbed by the horrors of the
nightmare; and, when the merry rays of the
sun sparkled in at the windows the next morning,
I felt as if delivered out of some dungeon, longed
for the camp, and hoped that, should fate cut
short my career, the sun and moon might alternately
throw their rays over my expiring body,
rather than that I should die a lingering death, surrounded
by wax tapers and priest-craft, and then75
buried in satin and gold, and finally extinguished
by a basket of quick lime.


On the 20th of July we descended into the
valley, and, at the edge of a wood, awaited
the coming of the division, from an advanced
camp on their way to Castello de Vida.
Every eye was on the stretch, and in the distance
we descried a cloud of dust rolling towards
us, the bright sparkling rays of the sun-beams
playing on the soldiers' breast plates, when
suddenly the leading regiment of the light division
burst forth; their bronzed countenances and
light knapsacks, and their order of march, all
united to inspire a conviction that their early discipline
had not only been maintained amidst privations,
battles and camps, but had become matured
by experience. They had traversed mountains,
and forded rivers; the grim and icy hand of
death had grasped many in the unhealthy marshes
of the Alentejo, and with sure effect had scattered
balls amidst their ranks without distinction: yet
the remainder of these veterans were still bent
onwards, to gather fresh laurels in the rugged
and uncertain paths of fortune. Seven regiments
of light infantry and riflemen defiled before us
with their thread-bare jackets, their brawny
necks loosened from their stocks, their wide and
patched trowsers of various colours, and brown-barrelled76
arms slung over their shoulders, or
carelessly held in their hands, whilst a joyous
buzz ran through the cross-belted ranks, as their
soldier-like faces glanced towards us to greet
many of their old comrades now about to join in
their arduous toils after a long separation. A
cloud of dust alone marked their further progress
as they receded from our view. Following in succession,
we brought up the rear. At the expiration
of an hour's march, we entered a wood, formed
column, called the roll, and the whole division
was then dismissed. The assembled multitude of
voices, the tearing and cutting down of branches
of trees, crackling of fires, rattling of canteens,
shooting of bullocks through the head, and the
hurrying of parties of soldiers for rum and biscuit
for rations, the neighing of horses, braying
asses and rampant mules, all resounded throughout
the forest, giving new life and merry echoes
to its most intimate recesses. Groups of officers
stood in circles; every countenance seemed decked
in smiles, and a hearty welcome greeted us
from all hands.


Under the wide-spreading branches of a venerable
cork-tree, decorated with pack-saddles, accoutrements,
and other military trappings, dinner
was served up and laid out on a pair of hampers,
which served us instead of a table. Beef, biscuit,
tea, rum, and wine, composed our fare, it being a77
usual custom to join breakfast and dinner, so as to
make one meal serve for the twenty-four hours,
the troops merely halting to cook and refresh
themselves during the heat of the day. A more
happy meal, I can safely say, I never partook of;
and with infinite admiration did I regard the
purple jackets and battered epaulettes of my companions.
Our small keg of wine being emptied,
the word passed to pack up and accoutre; and,
in an incredibly short space of time, the column
re-formed. The "assembly" sounded (the signal
of march) threes, from the right of companies, the
bands struck up, and at the end of two hours'
march, and towards nightfall, we entered another
wood. The same ceremony gone through as already
described, the blankets were spread out, the
earth our bed, knapsacks our pillows, and the
overhanging trees our canopy; the busy hum of
life no longer vibrated through the bivouac, and
thousands of soldiers slumbered and reposed their
weary limbs, lying scattered throughout the forest,
or around the dying embers of expiring fires.
My companions insisted on stretching themselves
on each side of me, protesting that they ought to
do thus, as a protection against cold for the first
two or three nights, since a very heavy dew fell,
so as almost to wet through the blankets, notwithstanding
the great heat of the weather by day.
For some time I was unable to close my eyes,78
owing to some insects flocking up my legs in
swarms, and creating much irritation.


Let us, for a moment, withdraw the veil of
futurity, and make a few anticipations. On my
right tranquilly slumbers a youthful warrior of
sixteen years old, and on my left unconsciously
sleeps the other, one year older. Lieutenant E. Freer
is doomed to undergo two more years of the toils of
war, to suffer sickness and privation, and, at the
sanguinary assault of Badajoz, to receive a severe
wound in the upper part of the thigh; and lastly,
at the age of nineteen, while in the Pyrenees, a
ball passes through his right arm, and enters his
side: he staggers, utters three words, and falls a
lifeless corpse amid those dreary regions!


Lieutenant J. Considine, at the assault of Badajoz,
receives a ball through his body, and, stretched on
the damp sod, enveloped in darkness, bleeds inwardly.
A light is held over his pale face, and
discovers the blood flowing from his mouth.
Borne, however, to a place of security, he recovers.
The next year he is tormented by a malignant
fever, and afterwards, on the highest pinnacle of
the Pyrenees, a ball strikes him; his thigh-bone
is broken near the hip: he cries for help. I look
down: he lies prostrate between my legs. The
balls carry death and destruction around: we are
under the walls storming a fort, and fighting hand
to hand. Four soldiers attempt to carry him off,79
and, not being aware of the place of his wound,
hoist him up, and turn his left foot outwards over
his shoulder; by which means the thigh-bone is
completely broken asunder. His screams are
dreadful, and two of the soldiers fall dead, pierced
with balls. The battle ended, he is carried to a
place of security, where he eventually recovers!—and
he now commands the 53d regiment.


Early the next morning we were again on the
road. The martial music struck up, and continued
to play for a short distance: the word
passed to march at ease: conversation then commenced.
The soldiers lighted their pipes; and,
before the sun had reached its meridian, we filed
into Portalegre. The streets were marked off, in
the first instance, for different corps; then the
houses, again, subdivided amongst officers and
soldiers; the latter portioned off according to the
size of the different dwellings; the butt ends of
the soldiers' firelocks serving as knockers, to rouse
the sulky inmates, who would fain plead ignorance
of the arrival of so many guests. It was by no
means an uncommon occurrence for owners of
houses to try all kinds of expedients, by absence,
paltry excuses, or otherwise, to drive away the
tired officers in disgust, who presented billets of
lodgement. One day, an officer on the staff had
patiently waited some time at a door without
being able to gain admittance, until at length the80
patron walked up from the street and feigned
civility, making a low bow, and saying to the
officer, "Senhor, I have no key;" when the
officer returned his salute, coolly lifted up his
long leg, and applied it to the door with such
force that it flew open at the first blow—then
turning to the astonished Portuguese, said
"Senhor, tiengo bon chave"12, and at a slow
march and with clanking sabre, took possession
of the house. From that day he was known by
the appellation of Bon chave throughout the army.


Another division entered the town the same day.
The army was composed of eight divisions of infantry,
besides cavalry and artillery; the former
force was known throughout the army by the
following familiar appellations: "the gentlemen's
sons," "the surprisers," "the fighting division,"
"the supporters," "the invisibles," "the never
heard of," "the all-sorts," and "the division:"
but, before the end of this most sanguinary war,
they all fought again and again, covering themselves
with fame and lasting glory.


81


The following day we proceeded to Castello de
Vida, an ancient fortified place within a league of
Marvao. The first brigade entered the town, and
the second bivouacked in a grove without its
walls. The adjacent country presented a wild
appearance; but more particularly the latter
town, which was perched on a rugged and stupendous
mountain, inaccessible on every side,
save only one approach, and even that impracticable
for carriages, the road winding under the overhanging
shelving of rocks, others of which reared
their rugged points in the very middle of this
(hardly to be so termed) pathway. A party of us
with difficulty ascended to this strange place, at a
season of the year when every particle of vegetation
is parched and dried up. The adjacent grey
precipices presented a frightful wilderness,—the
hiding-place of innumerable wolves. The mind of
the beholder on surveying such a prospect became
perplexed how so barren a spot, even at the
remotest period of antiquity, should have been fixed
on for any human habitation, far more for a fortification.
Some cannon of ancient construction were
still on the ramparts, but few mounted, and even the
carriages of those mouldering to decay. Here and
there a few miserable Portuguese were observed
basking in a sunny corner, grouped and huddled
together, and consisting of young and old women82
with dark countenances, and still darker tresses, enveloped
in shabby blue cloth cloaks, and extracting
piochos from each other's heads; that occupation
being the greatest source of delight and amusement
amongst them. Their general food consisted
of roasted chesnuts, washed down with
cold spring water—which caused their teeth to
decay at a very early age; and when they could
procure a little dried fish, or sardines, with black
sour bread, they would consider it a point of luxury.
The extreme heat of the weather, and the exertions
that we had used to reach this spot, created excessive
thirst; looking round, therefore, in search of
a house of entertainment, we espied a leafless
branch of a tree suspended over a doorway, which
bespoke the object of our search. On our entering
and demanding wine, the corner of a pig-skin was
untied, out of which spouted the wine into a
filthy measure. It was strongly impregnated with
the taste of the skin, about milk warm, and exceedingly
thick, owing to its having been recently
removed from a mule's back. These animals are
usually loaded with two dried pig-skins, sewed up
and slung across a pack saddle for the conveyance
of wine from one place to the other—the muleteer
being astride in the middle, and, above all, singing
a wild air, and beating time with his heels
against the bags.


83


Quitting this isolated place, and returning to
our quarters, we remained there two or three days,
and then resumed our march towards the northern
frontier. The first night we halted in a wood
near Niza. The next morning, an hour before
day light, we started; and, while passing over the
summit of a high hill, as the morning dawned, we
observed a thick mist overspreading an extensive
valley. As the sun rose, its refulgent light
pierced through the white fog, which resembled
a beautiful floating sea, out of which peeped forth
the tops of hills covered with investing shrubs.
As the rolling mist passed away, so these
apparent islands enlarged, until nothing of this
enchanting illusion remained, except a bare country
covered with gum cistus, (a small tree,) producing
a most sickly smell, and the more particularly
to those with empty stomachs. After a
fatiguing weary march, half suffocated by heat,
added to which our eyes, nose, and mouth, were
filled with sand, we descended the pass of Villa
Velha, where we observed a number of vultures
perched on the pinnacles of inaccessible rocks, as
if watching our motions, or waiting in anticipation
of more devoted victims.


Crossing the Tagus by the bridge of boats, we
bivouacked under the agreeable shade of an olive
grove. The surrounding scenery presented every84
where a beautiful, romantic, and grand spectacle;
the river foamed over the rocks that had fallen
into its dark stream from the overhanging crags.
The narrow road running at the base of the adjacent
mountains was filled with loose stones; woe,
therefore, to the sore-footed soldier who happened
to stumble amongst them! Woe to the sick or
wounded to whose lot it fell to be placed in those
Portuguese cars, rudely constructed, with small
solid wooden wheels, revolving on an unoiled
axletree, and causing an indescribable creeking
noise to be heard at a very considerable distance;
sounds so horrible, that the bigotted peasantry declare
they frighten away the evil spirit of Old Nick
himself!


The jolting of these vehicles frequently tore off
the plasters, and ripped open anew the wounds of
the suffering soldiers; nor was it at all unusual to
behold the sick, wounded, and dying, with pallid
countenances expressive of unheard-of agonies,
while these engines of torture, drawn by a pair of
bullocks, with their heads thrust under a shapeless
piece of wood, (for the purpose of yoking them
together,) rolled on their heavy way. The conductor
guided them with a long pole, with a piece
of pointed iron at the end of it, which he poked
into the beasts' necks, and directed them by such
sort of "sharp practice."




11 Massena.


12 A jargon mixture of the Portuguese, Spanish, and French
languages was frequently resorted to in our anxiety to make
ourselves understood by the natives, and when one word failed
another was substituted. An officer who had just entered the
country was most anxious to procure an egg, and having failed to
make himself understood, as a last resource, he cut a piece of
pipe-clay into the shape of an egg, and was instantly supplied.








85


CHAPTER V.






March continued—Wild and striking aspect of the country—Excellence
of discipline—Camp followers—Spanish peasant
girls and men—Plain of Fuente de Guinaldo—Reflections on a
soldier's life—A vegetable conflagration—Village of Martiago—Difficulties
of the French—Arrival in cantonments—The
paymaster's peculiarities.




Continuing our route through the town of Castello
Branco and several villages, we obtained to the
left a view of the tremendous ridge of snow-capt
mountains of the Sierra d'Estrella. The barrier of
bare and rugged rocks towards the Spanish side,
when gilded by the departing glare of the setting
sun, assumes the grandest appearance, and, in the
revellings of imagination, a thousand palaces of
burnished gold may be fancied amid these adamantine
rocks, vieing with each, other in height
and endless variety of form. Afar off, an old
monastery might be descried, perched on the summit
of bare and wild precipices; its spiral turrets86
shooting on high, and encompassed by the immensity
of space; the frowning battlements
overhanging the valley below, and threatening to
overwhelm the passing traveller with loose
stones and crumbling ruins—while the deep tones
of the monastic bell chimed the vesper hour. On
a solitary eminence a lonely shepherd stood,
tending his flock, with a carbine slung across his
shoulder, and a couple of wolf-dogs crouching at
his feet, their necks encircled by strong iron collars
bristling with long spikes, to protect them
against the gripe of the voracious wolves. All
around seemed of other times in this precipitous
part of the country, composed principally of solid
rock. The rude hand of time had identified towns
and villages with their primitive stones; houses
had fallen to decay, but nothing new had arisen on
the ruins; streets branched out, but it was no wise
uncommon to find huge rocks, of many tons
weight, sticking up in the middle of them, never
having been removed, and leaving the traveller the
option of a choice of one of the two narrow roads
round these natural obstacles.


As the division threaded its march over winding
and difficult roads, its horse-artillery might be
heard rumbling in the rear, while the winding
notes of the bugle horns echoed in the distant
valleys. Major-General R. Craufurd commanded87
the light division. His arrangements and regulations
of march stood unrivalled: at the expiration
of every hour, the division formed close
columns of regiments, and halted for about ten
minutes; the leading corps were generally again
marching off by the time the rear came up.
When any obstacles came across the line of route,
each officer, commanding a company, saw that
they were closed up before he put them into the
regular marching pace, and that even if a break in
the column happened of fifty yards between each
company. I have frequently witnessed the whole
division marching in this manner through a difficult
country, by which means they were always
in hand, ready to engage by companies. If a man
found himself exhausted between the halts, the
senior officer of the company ordered him to have
a ticket, which he was obliged to hand over on his
arrival in camp, or to shew to any one who questioned
him on the road as to his authority for
being absent from his corps.


The code of discipline was very strict; but every
one knew exactly that which was required of him,
and, in the event of any irregularity even on the
line of route, amidst wilds and mountains, no
matter where, the column was closed up instanter,
and a summary punishment inflicted on the spot.
This was far from harsh treatment: it was lenity88
in the end; it preserved the health of the soldiers,
by keeping them in their ranks; it maintained
discipline and concentration, the great requisites
in war; it prevented marauding on the inhabitants;
soldiers were debarred from coming
to unpleasant collisions and assassin-like encounters;
and thus peace and harmony were established
among those whom we were bound to
defend. The followers of the division (and of the
army) were composed of lank Barbary bulls and
bullocks; mules loaded with bags of biscuit, kegs
of rum, kegs of ball cartridge, reserve ammunition;
a few hardy women (mistresses, or wives
of soldiers) mounted on strong and weak asses;
Portuguese boys, drivers; officers' milch goats;
purveyors and medicine chests; and sometimes a
few suttlers, headed by a man better known by the
name of Tick, owing to his giving credit to officers
in precarious times. This person, by the bye,
as a natural consequence, would lay on an enormous
per centage for small articles of luxury;
disposing of bread itself at nine shillings a four-pound
loaf. Tea, sugar, and brandy in a proportionate
ratio.


On the 9th of August we emerged from Portugal,
and passed Albergeria, a village on the Spanish frontier.
My astonishment and curiosity were highly
excited on observing the extraordinary difference89
between the natives of Spain and Portugal, and
that it could be possible, for people living so near
one another, to be so dissimilar in complexion,
costume, and manners,—even when inhabiting respectively
the banks of a narrow stream, which
holds its course near the frontier of the two
kingdoms, being scarcely two yards wide, and
only ankle deep.


The merry Spanish peasant girls came forward
with bold smiles and strutting steps, greeting us in
familiar terms, such as Vivan los Ingleses; vivan
los Coluros, y Mil años a ustedes; then pulling out
their castanets, jumping and saying, den nosotros la
musica: vivan los Ingleses. Others came running
forward with pitchers, and, against all rules, broke
the ranks, insisting on supplying the soldiers with
water. Some of them were extremely pretty;
their lively manner and becoming costume made
them appear to great advantage. Their complexions
generally are of a fine healthy brown,
they have sparkling black eyes, and dark hair
combed back and tied in a knot with a bunch of
black ribbons, hanging down their backs; their
jackets of brown or blue cloth are laced up the
front, and slit open at the sleeves, so as to display
a white chemise. Their petticoats are of
various bright colours, reaching just below the
knee; and their stockings are red, blue, and white,90
most fancifully worked up the middle of the calf
of the leg; their feet are remarkably small, with
silver buckles in their shoes, besides gold or silver
ornaments in their ears and round their necks.
When going to church or visiting each other, they
wear a black cloth mantilla over the head, and
held across the breast with both hands. On entering
a place of worship, they cross themselves
quickly and drop down on the pavement on both
knees, looking very devout, unless some object of
attraction happens to catch their attention. The
male peasantry are hardy and well-made, but by
far the shortest race of men I ever saw in any
other country, although their picturesque dress
gives them the deceptive appearance of a height
which they really do not possess. Their principal
amusement out of doors is the game of hand
ball, or throwing an iron bar with the right hand
a considerable distance, and also pitching it betwixt
their legs in various other ways which may
suit their fancy. On sundays and fête days they
dance boleros with their village maids, who beat
time with their castanets and sing when music
cannot be procured. That favorite dance is formed
by four or eight couple standing opposite one another,
not unlike the formation of a quadrille party.
The male attire in the province of Leon is a large
sombrero, or broad-brimmed hat, with a wide black91
ribbon tied round it; a brown jacket slit open at
the sleeves; a blue or green velveteen waistcoat
decorated with two rows of long-shanked silver
buttons, and cut out at the breast, showing a
white shirt, handsomely plaited or worked, with
a collar about half an inch wide, fastened with a
clasp. The belt round their waists is of durable
leather, about five inches broad. Their breeches
are dark brown, stockings of similar colour, with
shoes and silver buckles. When they go out, or
during holidays, they envelope themselves in large
brown cloaks, which they throw gracefully over
the shoulder, and conduct themselves with a manner
and deportment very far beyond the peasantry
of other countries. Their villages are built
in a cluster round good churches, the body of
those edifices towering high above the small
houses of one story high that encircle them. The
floor is usually composed of earth beat down to a
hard substance. There is no glass in the windows,
which are merely small square apertures,
one foot by six inches, divided by an iron bar,
with a little shutter on hinges, which is closed at
night. Their usual furniture consists of a bedstead,
wool or straw mattress, covered by very coarse
sheets and blankets, a table, two or three forms
with backs to them, a large chest with a partition
for the double purpose for stowing away flour92
and holiday apparel. Sometimes in winter a
brass pan with handles is used under the table,
which they fill with hot embers to keep their
lower extremities warm. The only chimney in
the house is in the kitchen, where they use a small
iron lamp filled with aziete or oil, and burn wood
from their neighbouring forests; and when afar
removed from woods, and that article becomes
scarce, charcoal is substituted for cooking. Their
usual food is sausages, garlic, and chocolate, the
latter made into cakes ready sweetened, but only
used as a luxury, and mixed so thick, that a tea
spoon will stand upright in it. The bread is extremely
white, and compressed, without yeast,
made in the shape of a pancake, being ten inches
in diameter, and about two inches and a half
thick, and weighing four pounds.


The women wash by the side of streams, and
continue to dip the articles in the water, and then
strike them on a large round stone, on which they
kneel, and, finally, lay them on the ground to dry;
by which means they bleach their linen very white.


It is curious to observe a mother dressing a
young child: after putting on its petticoat, she
rolls several yards of coarse cloth so tight round
the body of the infant, that a stranger would conceive
it would be unable to respire, as its little
arms stick out horizontally.


93


We continued our march over the plain of
Fuente de Guinaldo, and within half a league of
that place took up our ground in a wood, where
we encamped, that is to say, cut down branches
of trees, and constructed huts; and although the
canopy of heaven, or a rudely formed hut, for
months in succession, was the only shelter for the
troops, the bivouac resounded with merriment,
and afforded frequent good cheer. For my own
part, I felt perfectly happy; my eyes and inclinations
were directed towards the front; I felt myself
securely lodged on terra firma, and no longer
a sort of amphibious animal. I had escaped the
dreadful fever and mortality of Walcheren, nor
could I well call to mind the having ever experienced
a day's serious illness. This was about
the period of the year when the sickly season
commenced; but I flattered myself that any impression
on my unimpaired constitution was quite
out of the question; in fact, I never troubled myself
with gloomy thoughts: a wide field was now
open, to which I looked forward with great anticipation,
little dreaming of the example that was
about to be visited, in the space of a short week,
on my active limbs.


What situation is superior to the camp? and
what period of a soldier's life is called to mind in
such glowing colours as the days of youth, when he94
was reclining under the shady branches of a forest
oak, surrounded by young companions in arms,
with light pockets and still lighter hearts, cheerfully
talking to each other of glittering and moving
armies, and all the imposing grandeur and
pomp of war?—or fancy him nourishing the
fonder feelings, and expatiating on the beauty of
some foreign damsel, by whose wit and graces all
hearts are captivated; while many another, more
constant, indulges the fond hope of once more
clasping the native mistress of all his thoughts to
his arms, on his return to his own shores.


Spain, of all countries, tends to produce in the
mind the most romantic thoughts, from the salubrity
of its climate, its diversified scenery, clear
sky, and bright sun—a sun which shines throughout
the summer from morning till night, so that
to those who sleep under the canopy of heaven
all days seem the same, and when summer closes
and clouds darken the atmosphere, the preceding
season appears to the imagination as one continued
day. These and many other feelings are indelibly
fixed on the mind of a soldier, who closes his eyes
on the highest mountains, in the deepest vallies,
in woods, in morasses, in dusty, parched, and arid
plains, or amid orange groves, luxuriant gardens,
and beneath the marble fountain; or amidst
frost and snow—the inmate alike of the palace, or95
of the peasant's menial hut—one night reposing
on a bed of down, enveloped by satin drapery,
the next stretching his tired limbs on the ground,
or on a miserable bed filled with vermin—one
hour gazing on the sumptuous, light, flowing
drapery and satin slipper of the graceful señora,
the next on the ruddy healthy cheek of the more
humble muchacha. All these opposite changes
attend the soldiers' career in rapid succession.


But lo! dinner is served up and announced.
A truce to reflections! While we were employed
handling our knives and forks, displaying a hungry
dexterity, and bolting morsels of unchewable ration
beef, a smoke was observed issuing from a valley,
in the direction of our outposts, a mile to the
front, which continued to increase, and then burst
into a flame. A gentle wind blew towards our
bivouac. The blaze increasing, and extending
with great velocity, the cry of "fire," resounded
from all quarters—"The camp's on fire." All
was confusion; officers and soldiers seizing their
baggage, ammunition, and horses. In the mean
time, some tore large branches from the trees,
and advanced to check the devouring element,
the dried corn burning and whizzing towards us
with the noise of a whirlwind; the heat was excessive;
opposition was useless; the trees of the
forest blazing away like a whisp of straw; and96
the whole brigade were en déroute, flying to save
their lives, by reaching the road, where the second
brigade had hastily formed, with boughs in their
hands, as a last effort to endeavour to repel this
vast conflagration. Fortunately the wood here
ended, and the grass burnt itself out to the edge
of the sandy road, which was one of great width,
such as are frequently met with in the open parts
of Spain. Had I not been an eye-witness to so
quick and extensive a devastation made in a short
time, I could hardly have pictured to my mind
such a grand and awful spectacle.


Taking up fresh ground for the night, we descended
in the morning the precipitous banks of
the river Agueda, leading to the remote village of
Martiago, nearly at the base of the Sierra de
Gata. On the night we entered it, a pack of famished
wolves devoured a donkey, and tore the
hind quarters of a horse away. The poor animal
was found in the morning, having crawled from
his ferocious pursuers into the middle of the village
for refuge, in that miserable condition.


Ciudad Rodrigo was to be reconnoitred. As
convoys of stores and provisions were expected
from Salamanca, through the great forest, of four
days' march, between those places; and as Don
Julien Sanches, with his Guerillas, hovered about
ready to cut off all small parties, the French were97
under the necessity, with incalculable inconvenience,
to assemble their army, stretched
over a great extent of country, to keep the inhabitants
under control, to protect their hospitals,
levy contributions, and to make perpetual countermarches
in order to keep open their line of
communication.


On the 11th of August, before daylight, our
division was bending its course over ravines, and
almost impassable pathways, to show front during
a reconnoissance made by Lord Wellington, who
usually wore in the field, at this period, a small
low-crowned cocked hat, a blue pelisse coat, and
a Hussar sash.


The sun blazed forth as usual, (for not a drop
of rain had fallen since I had put my foot into the
country), and biscuit and rum were served out to
refresh the exhausted soldiers; a humble refection
which no one would think of grudging
to those who had been under arms for ten hours,
under a burning sun, and crowning the highest
hills without a bush to shelter them, or a drop of
water to refresh their parched lips.


With my rum in one hand, making a shallow
appearance at the bottom of a soldier's tin, and my
mouldy biscuit in the other, I beheld an officer
approach me, in the act of drawing from his bosom98
an old ragged black silk neck-handkerchief worn
out in the service, and now converted into a
pocket-handkerchief. He fumbled it over for a
whole corner to apply his nose to; and during
this operation, his eyes were fixed on my tin.
After a variety of hems, coughings, and such like
indications, he took courage to beg that I would
permit him to dip his dry biscuit into my shallow
allowance of rum, to moisten his lips: his request
being granted, and thanks returned for the given
relief, he told me that, in the hurry to grasp his
share, he had unfortunately upset it on the ground,
and had the additional mortification to see it dry
up in an instant.


We were spread out rank entire within sight of
the garrison, for the governor to suppose our
force stronger than it really was, so that he might
inform the Duke of Ragusa, and oblige him to
bring up and deploy his whole army, for the
protection of his intended convoy.


Late in the evening we reached our cantonments
in good spirits, though well tired, but not so much
so as to prevent my making a good meal. Turning
into a small recess, and getting into bed for
the first time for weeks, after some hours I awoke
rather feverish, went to the door in my shirt to
cool myself, and found the air so refreshing that I99
continued stationary for a considerable time, certainly
much longer than my prudence ought to
have dictated; however, I did not feel any ill
effects from it at the time.


On the day following, our paymaster was encircled
by a group of officers, who were listening
to his odd remarks, relative to warfare. He declared
that he hated bullets and swords, but with
fists he flattered himself he was able to cope with,
and would not turn his back on any man. "Oh!"
said he, "how I should like to see a fine boiled leg
of pork, and a pease pudding, smoking before me;
why the very thought makes me ravenous, and I
could eat any thing, from a gnat to an elephant;
yes sir, I could eat an elephant stuffed with militiamen!"
Then with both hands, pulling his
cheeks, his breeches and his waistcoat, for in
quarters he actually wore the identical dress he
had joined the regiment in; "Look at these,"
said he, "why they fitted me as tight as a drum
before I came to this cursed country; and look
at them now! Well, only let me get my wife
on my knee by my comfortable fire-side once
more, and, if ever I leave old England again,
may I be ——! and as my poor brother did
die, I wish he had taken his departure before
he ever persuaded me to enter the army!"






100


CHAPTER VI.






The author is attacked by illness—Miseries of military travelling
in that condition—Quarters at Celorico—The author's difficult
recovery—Grievous sufferings endured by the soldiers affected
with fever in the sickly season—Death of the Paymaster—The
author rejoins his Division—Movements of the
French—A clerical case of disaster—The contested mattress—A
dance—Expensive celebration of Christmas—Story of the
German suttler—Village and neighbourhood of Fuente de
Guinaldo—Theatrical representations by the English officers.




Three days after our long reconnoissance I
became blind with ophthalmia, was seized with
violent rheumatic pains in the soles of my feet,
and took to my bed. My legs and knees swelled
to an enormous size, first turning red, then blue,
and I was no longer able to move.


Many other officers became sick, and were ordered
to the rear. I for one, mattress and all, was
shoved into a Spanish car. Our feelings during
the passage of the Agueda were indescribable.—Ye
invalids, stretched on your beds of down!
comfort yourselves; submit to your pains with101
Christian philosophy, and bless your lucky stars
that you did not belong to the army of Portugal.
Rejoice that your very lives are not shaken out of
you by such ups and downs; first over one rock,
then over another, and dragged along by bullocks
sometimes forced into a run, owing to the steepness
of the adamantine roads. I could no longer
bear the terrible pain. In my shirt, with my
legs enveloped in bandages of the car, I begged
and entreated to be lifted out, being quite
helpless and blind. To get on a mule's back was
quite out of the question, my legs and knees were
so inflamed. At length some sick soldiers offered
to try and carry or rather drag me from rock to
rock. First I got a jolt on one side, then an unintentional
bump on the other; the men were
exhausted; and I entreated them to hold up
my feet, (while my head lay in the road), for
I could not bear them on the ground. At the
end of the second day's tormenting journey, we
entered Castel Nero. The cars were drawn round
a stone fountain, and while waiting for our billets
from the Juez de Fora, the howling of wolves
was distinctly heard in all directions, amid the
surrounding woods and rocks.


For five burning days we travelled from morning
until nightfall at the rate of a mile an hour102.
Each night I was dragged out of the car, mattress
and all, shoved into some horrible recess that was
almost alive with vermin, and replaced in my uneasy
vehicle in the morning for the continuation
of the journey. On the fifth day, when within two
leagues of Celorico (the place of our destination),
we drew up, as Major Ellers of our regiment requested
that he might rest for a short time, since
he could no longer bear the jolting of his vehicle;
in a few minutes however he expired, and his
body was carried forward and interred.


The heat of the weather was almost past endurance.
On our arrival at Celorico, with an
empty room for my quarter and the floor for my
resting place, I remained sixty days nearly immoveable,
my only covering a filthy blanket,
which had been stained all over from my mule's
sore back. On the journey it had been placed
under the animal's pack saddle to save its back,
by day, while in turn I had the benefit of it as a
covering by night. In this miserable plight,
what with bleeding and blistering, and long confinement,
I had become a perfect skeleton, and
reduced to the most wretched condition. Five
medical officers came to hold a consultation at
the foot of my mattress, and, having examined
my now lank legs, and big feet, they assured me,103
that they could not hold out any hope of a speedy
recovery, and even doubted whether I should
ever again be enabled to straighten my right leg,
the knee of which had become contracted during
the pains of my rough journey. The staff doctors
held out every inducement to persuade me to go
to England, by first offering a spring waggon to
convey me to Lisbon. My suffering had been
great, my arms hung nearly useless by my side,
my legs refused their office: yet I still cherished
the hope, that they would again, carry me forward.
Doctor Mac Lean most kindly pressed me
to acquiesce in their advice, but without effect:
(poor gentleman—I understood he died a few days
subsequently of a fever!)—how could I leave the
army, whom I found amongst mountains feeding
on hard biscuit and drinking rum impregnated with
the mosquitoes? A pretty warlike story to recount
at home! The very thought was frightful! More
bleeding and blistering were therefore resorted to,
by which means, added to a good constitution, at
the expiration of another month I was enabled
with the assistance of crutches to reach my window,
the trellis work of which being thrown open
offered me ineffable delight at once more enjoy
the sight of a few living objects in the street.


The rain now fell in torrents for days together,104
and thousands of British and Portuguese soldiers
(now crowding the churches which had been
converted into hospitals) were dying by hundreds,
of fever produced by the sickly season. The excruciating
torments, suffering and privations of
the common soldiers were such, that an adequate
description is impossible,—many of them lingering
in raging fevers, stretched out on the pavement,
the straw that had been placed for their comfort,
having worked from under them during their
agonies, while hundreds of flies settled on and
blackened their dying faces: and so stationary did
these tormentors become, that those who still
maintained sufficient power were obliged to tear
them from off their faces, and squeeze them to
death in their hands. Cars piled up, and loaded
with the remains of these unfortunate victims to
disease, daily passed through the streets for the
purpose of pitching their bodies into some hole
by way of interment. The medical officers were
overpowered by the numbers of sick, and also fell
ill themselves, so that it was a total impossibility,
notwithstanding their strenuous efforts, to surmount
all difficulties, and to pay that attention to
all that could have been wished. The very hospital
orderlies were exhausted by attending, burying,
and clearing away the dead. These scenes of105
misery cannot be fancied: the sick pouring into
the town, lining the streets, and filling every
house, set at nought all theoretical conception.


Our paymaster entered the town with a raging
fever. His hopes were not realized: he never again
beheld his wife or his comfortable fire side. At
the end of a few days' anguish he expired, and
was buried with the rest.


Captain Poppleton was the commandant at
this station. Officers of other corps held similar
commands (with certain privileges) at Belem,
Santarem, Niza, and other towns for the purpose
of regulating quarters for the sick and stragglers
of the army.


At the expiration of four unhappy months I
became so far convalescent, as to be enabled to
proceed to join my corps. I counted every step
forward which carried me further from the hated
and detestable dépôt, where every surrounding object
depicted misery, and where, when the lively
army happened to be in motion, such gloomy reports
were spread, as to intimidate the sick and frighten
the convalescents out of the country. Having
passed through Guarda, Sabugal, and several
miserable Portuguese villages, at the expiration
of five days I reached Fuente de Guinaldo, the
head quarters of the division. It is unnecessary106
to say that a hearty welcome hailed my arrival,
and various interesting incidents, which had occurred
since I left, were related by my companions,
but none were more agreeable to my sanguine
mind, than to hear that the division had not
fired a shot during the time of my absence; so far
dame Fortune had befriended me.


The enemy, under the Duke of Ragusa, had
advanced on the 25th of September to throw provisions
into Rodrigo, and had attacked the fourth
division at Adea de Ponte, and part of the third
division, who had distinguished themselves against
the French cavalry on the heights near El Bodon,
they having made several vain efforts to break their
little squares for two leagues over firm charging
ground; little, I repeat, because the regiments
composing the brigade were very weak in point of
numbers.


The light division was stationed on the right
bank of the Agueda, hovering on the enemy's
left flank; but, owing to the central attack, it
was obliged to march à détour, so as to accomplish
a concentration with the third division
at Fuente de Guinaldo. This was done with
the loss of one man, and that was the parson
attached to the division, who had entered a
house and turned snugly into bed, while the107
soldiers were shivering on the ploughed ground
with keen appetites. During the night, the troops
retrograded a short distance, suffering all the while
from cold. The march was much impeded owing
to a trifling stream in the road, and other obstacles,
which the soldiers could not at first surmount, for
the extreme darkness. By some accident the
parson was not aware of this movement. Towards
morning, while wrapped in the arms of Morpheus,
he felt a gentle tap, and on opening his leaden
eyelids, he saw four French heavy dragoons
wrapped in white cloaks, with weather-beaten
visages and huge mustachios, (crowned by brazen
helmets, surmounted with tyger skins,) hanging
over him in deep consultation on the best way of
disposing of his person. The debate closed by
their allowing him to put on his sable garments,
to be conveyed a prisoner to the governor of
Ciudad Rodrigo, who, on being informed of his
harmless pursuits, gave directions for his liberation,
so that he might go in search of the English
army. On his being conducted to the gate of the
town, the French soldiers rudely divested him
of his coat and waistcoat, using their feet besides,
in a most unceremonious manner, and left
him to pursue his journey in his shirt sleeves.


Although the house occupied by the officers of108
the company was small, they declared that I
should not seek a bed elsewhere; and one of
my friends assured me that he would soon
supply me with that article. Without further
ado he hastily retired, and in a few minutes
we heard a great uproar in the street, and,
making for the door, we found my friend
running towards the house loaded with a mattress
on his back, and pursued by a woman out
of whose house he had taken it. Rushing into the
room breathless and convulsed with laughter, he
threw it on the floor, which he had no sooner
done than the furious owner burst in, and, laying
violent hands on it, began to tug away, showering
forth a string of Spanish imprecations, too numerous
to mention, but easily to be guessed at by
those who have heard such refined salutations
from an enraged Spanish muger. It was not
until her strength had entirely failed her that she
would admit of an explanation; but, on money
being offered her, she turned away indignantly;
and as she had not shown any relaxation of the
muscles of her brown visage, and her large black
eyes continued to express unutterable things, the
officer thought it better to reload himself and return
that which, in a frolicsome moment, he had
carried off with so much dexterity; but the woman109
pulled it from off his shoulder, and, with all the
natural generosity of the sex, gave him the use of
it, (as it was for a convalescent comrade,) as long
as it might be required.


A dance was to take place that evening. The
officers, therefore, put on their best uniforms, and
decorated themselves with all the precision and
care used when about to attend a ball of a more
enlightened circle.


On entering the room we observed the females
decorated in their best attire and trinkets. The
band struck up a bolero; that being concluded,
the male peasantry retired, leaving their mistresses
to hop down our country dances, and to instruct
us in those figures we had attempted to
teach them. Generals, and all ranks, mixed in
these rustic dances, where a variety of little coquetries
were practised on the half-enamoured
swains. The smell of garlic was scarce tolerable;
but these were no times for niceties.


Every effort was exerted to do ample justice to
Christmas. The different officers' messes dined
alternately with each other, to partake of lean
roast beef and plumb pudding. Poultry was procured;
in fact, no expense was spared. A four
pound loaf cost a dollar; moist sugar three pecetas
a pound, and every other commodity equally expensive;110
still the festive board was well supplied,
and the evenings most joyfully spent.


One of the suttlers who had taken post with our
division, to amass a fortune, was a German of
ordinary appearance with a pretty wife. Here it so
happened that our serjeant-major, a man of portly
figure, was possessed of more small talk than usually
falls to the lot of men in his station of life; and,
being remarkably fond of good living, and other
amusements, proved a very losing customer at the
above worthy suttler's shop, who could not help
seeing the decline of that stock which he had
brought from Lisbon at so much expense; besides
other annoyances which he could not see.
He, therefore, in a fit of extreme irritation, without
his hat, made for the commanding officer's
quarters, where he entered unceremoniously, and
then laid bare all his wrongs. "Sare," said he,
"your serjeant major is a very bad man. He
drinky my wine. He eaty my sugar. He drinky
my tea and my coffee. He kissy my vife, and he
kick * * *. Sare, your serjeant-major is a
very bad man."


Every morning the officers were engaged rehearsing
their different parts, or superintending the
making of theatrical dresses, (as the tragedy of
Henry IV was to be performed by various officers,)111
and scene painting. The latter was principally
executed by Bell, (the assistant quarter master
general of the division,) in an old chapel, within
one hundred yards of the village, which had been
gutted of its ornaments by the French or the
priests.


The compact and small village of Fuente de
Guinaldo stands on an eminence in an open
plain, encircled at a certain distance by a number
of stone crosses, said to have been placed there
by the peasantry to frighten away evil spirits.
There are no enclosures, no out-barns, or farm
houses, in this part of Spain, which gives the
plain during winter a very lonely aspect, skirted
as it is by a distant wood, and a ridge of wild
mountains on the summit of which is a monastery,
which is only to be seen on a clear day;
for if the weather is at all hazy, it is enveloped by
clouds. The communication from one village to
another, is a sort of track beaten into the shape of
a road by the footsteps and small traffic of many
generations.


The natives of this part of the country form a
little colony, unmixed by a second order of society,
as there is no resident beyond the rank of a
peasant, the principal holding the authority of
Alcalde, and completely governing the village in112
all judicial affairs. He exercises his power with
mildness, which is perceptible in the independent
manners of the people.


The girls sing very pretty airs in praise of some
renowned chieftain, or of her who happens to be
the acknowledged beauty. Maria Josepha, of
Fuentes de Onor, was the happy Moza whose
charms were extolled at this period: but what
most struck my attention was a song about
Marlborough's knowing how to make war, and
sung to the same tune as in England. The
mothers lull their children to sleep by it; and
when bodies of troops enter towns, or the girls
dance boleros, this is a general tune. I inquired of
a muchacha where she learnt it; she opened her eyes
with a ludicrous surprise, and made answer, in the
quick witty manner usual amongst the Mozas,
"Why, of my grandmother,—Que edad tiene V.
M?"13—by way of giving me a hint not to consider
myself the instructor.


The long expected night of performance having
arrived, written bills of the play having been
distributed throughout the village (which was
filled like a bee hive with officers who had come from
a considerable distance from other divisions of113
the army, with flowing camlet cloaks, and mounted
on boricos, mules, and ragged-mained stallions;)
and tickets being issued for pit and boxes, we
moved in Bacchanalian groups towards el Teatro
(or chapel). It was crammed to excess, as we
had not forgotten to reserve some room for los
soldados. The curtain no sooner drew up, than
the wonder of the Muchachas knew no bounds,
and they became so loquacious in admiration of
the scenery and dresses, and in disputing among
themselves which was el Principe, and which the
various characters the officers were to personify,
that it was a considerable time before they could
be so far tranquillized as to permit the performance
to proceed, which, however, went off with
great eclat. "Poins, and be hanged." Alas!
no. Poor Poins was badly wounded, and blown
up a few days after!




13 How old are you?








114


CHAPTER VII.






Preparations for the siege of Ciudad Rodrigo—A review of the
light Division by Lord Wellington—The fort and convent of
Saint Francisco taken—Storming the breach—Capture of the
place—Regulations for the prevention of plunder—Disorders
committed in the city—Remarks and anecdotes connected with
the siege—Burial of General Craufurd—Removal of quarters
to El Bodon—Vestiges of the previous engagement near that
place—Ciudad Rodrigo consigned to a Spanish garrison—March
towards Badajoz—Castello de Vida—Fortress of
Elvas—An accidental acquaintance.




At the expiration of some months' travail by the
engineer department, in procuring stores from
various places, active operations were commenced
to collect them near at hand,—such as the battering
train, cannon balls, ammunition, gabions,
fascines, scaling-ladders, sand bags, shovels,
spades, pickaxes, &c.—for the purpose of laying
siege to Ciudad Rodrigo, (in the province of
Leon,) which stands on an eminence on the right
bank of the river Agueda, surrounded by an
open country, and was garrisoned by two thousand
French soldiers. The walls of the fortress are
rather more than a mile and a quarter in circumference,115
enclosing monasteries, convents, and
churches,—which gives the city at a distance
the appearance of an immense gothic castle.


A few days previously to the siege, Lord Wellington
reviewed the light division on the plains of
Guinaldo. He was dressed in full uniform, and
merely rode down the line, looking at the troops
in a cheerful manner. Just as his Lordship was
leaving the ground, which was covered with snow,
General Craufurd appeared, and soon after the
troops returned to their quarters. The second
brigade came from Martiago, and returned that
night—an immense march. A few days subsequently
to this review, the whole division was
concentrated, the first brigade moving to La
Encina, the second to El Bodon. During this
march a tremendous storm of sleet and snow took
place; the snow froze and adhered to the horses
hoofs, forming balls which raised them several
inches from the ground. Fortunately, the march
was short, as fatigue-parties of soldiers were
obliged to return to prop up the weak and staggering
baggage-animals, that had suffered previously
from bad provender.


On the 8th of January, 1812, the light division
crossed the Agueda, sans culotte, (a cooler!) at a
ford about four miles above Ciudad Rodrigo. The
day was fine, and, indeed, during the operations
of the siege, the atmosphere was mild for the116
season of the year, although sometimes frosty of a
morning.


The division bivouacked for some hours two
miles from the town. When the darkness had set
in, three hundred soldiers drawn from the 43d,
52d, and the rifle corps, moved under the command
of Colonel Colborne14, to assault the fort of
Francisco. The enemy fired about two rounds;
our good troops did not allow more time, and the
fort was taken. It was situated on a rising
ground, six hundred yards from the town, was of
a square form, with two small howitzers, "en
barbette," and had a garrison of two officers and
forty soldiers, who were made prisoners. Six or
eight others either were killed or escaped into the
town, where the drums began to beat to arms,
and a furious fire of shot and shell opened on us,
while digging a parallel close to the captured fort;
the earth being thrown up on the town side. The
land is arable, and bestrewn with loose stones,
which were flying on all sides from the impulse
given by the cannon balls, and the bursting of
shells, which were exploding on every side,
killing and maiming many soldiers.


The great convent of Saint Francisco, in the
suburb, was carried a few days before the storming
of the town, and also the ruined convent of117
Santa Cruz. On the morning of the 14th, about
five hundred French soldiers made a sortie from
the city, and before they retired were very nearly
succeeding in entering the batteries, where the
battering cannon had been placed the night
before. The twenty-four pounders were of iron,
mounted like field guns, on handsome carriages,
painted lead colour.


An hour before dark on this day, the batteries
opened within six hundred yards of the
ramparts for the purpose of battering in breach.
The first, third, fourth, and light divisions, employed
in the siege moved by turns from their
cantonments, each taking a twenty-four hours'
spell.15


On the 19th of January, the light division was
ordered to the assault out of its turn. During the
greater part of the day we remained cooking
behind the convent of the Norbortins, a most
splendid ruin, with very extensive cloisters,118
situated close on the right bank of the Agueda,
three miles S. E. of the town. Soon after three
o'clock we moved towards the ground occupied by
the foot guards, who were halted one mile and
a half from the suburbs of Ciudad Rodrigo. These
troops came forward to wish us success, and our
band struck up the fall of Paris. The third
division occupied the trenches, and the garrison
must have observed the march of the light division
from the ramparts,—extra troops! The governor
should have pondered on it! If he had kept a
sharp look-out, he must have been expecting the
assault.


There were two breaches effected in the walls
of this town. By the small breach the large one
was taken in reverse.


At half-past six o'clock the light division was
formed behind the convent of Saint Francisco,
near the suburb, and almost exactly opposite to
the small breach, and about four hundred yards
from it. The third division, under General Sir
Thomas Picton, was also formed behind the ruins
of Santa Cruz, and in the trenches opposite the
large breach. All was silent, four or five shells
excepted, which were thrown by the enemy into
our left battery, and fell not a great distance from
our column. Now, if the governor thought that
the assault was preparing, he ought not to have119
fired at all from the ramparts, as it prevented the
approach of the troops from being discovered by
the ear.


I heard the town-clock strike seven, and at the
same time saw a match lighted in one of the
embrasures—(very awful!) at that moment the
"forlorn hope," headed by Lieut. Gurwood, of the
52d, and the storming party (composed of three
hundred soldiers, with a proportion of officers)
moved on, carrying a number of bags, filled with
dried grass, to lessen the depth of the fausse braie
and the ditch. In a few minutes they were on the
brink of the ditch, and the fire of the town opened
briskly on them. There was a sort of check,
but no longer than might be expected, as they
had to scramble in and out of the fausse braie,
and then to jump into the dry ditch; but having
gone too far to the left, the advance got on the
wrong side of the tower, which was not breached,
and the soldiers, for a few seconds, were knocking
with the butt-ends of their fire locks against the
wall, crying out "Where's the breach?" for
although the enemy were firing rapidly from the
top of the wall, still the troops, on first descending
to the bottom of the ditch, were in total darkness.
This state of suspense lasted, however,
a very short time, for two soldiers, stumbling on120
the loose rubbish, called out "Here's the breach,"
and Lieut. Gurwood16 led up it; but the French
swore they should not enter, and fought most
desperately on the crest of the breach, throwing
down large stones and missiles, and keeping up
a most deadly fire. Here many brave officers
and soldiers fell. General Craufurd received a
mortal wound, and fell into his aide-de-camp's
arms, on the glacis, while cheering on the main
body of the division. Major General Vandeleur
and Colonel Colborne were wounded. How the
troops contrived to force the breach I know not:
I can only say that it was well done. The breach
was exceedingly steep: about five yards wide at
the top, having a cannon, of heavy calibre, placed
sideways, to block up the passage; however,
there was a clear yard from the muzzle of the
gun to the wall, a sufficient space for one or two
soldiers to enter at a time, besides those who could
pass underneath the muzzle of the gun, or over
the wheels of the carriage.


The moment the division entered, a number of
soldiers rushed to the right, along the ramparts,
to the large breach (one hundred and fifty yards),
and then engaging those of the French who were121
still firing on the third division, absolutely drove
them over the breast-work, on to the large breach.
At this time a wooden spare magazine, placed on
the rampart, exploded, and blew up some French
grenadiers, and many of the light division. Lieutenant
Pattenson, of the 43d, and Lieut. Uniacke,
of the rifle corps, were of the number. This
occurred just behind the traverse, which, on the
enemy's right, confined and guarded the great
breach.


On ascending the small breach, directly after
it was carried, I found myself with the crowd.
Lieut.-Colonel M'Leod managed to collect, with the
assistance of some other officers, on the rampart
about two hundred soldiers of our regiment, and
was exhorting them to keep together. At this
time there was not any firing on us, with the
exception of a few stray shots from the opposite
buildings; but there was sharp musketry still at
the great breach.


I ran towards the large breach, and met
an officer slowly walking between two soldiers
of the rifle corps. I asked who it was, when he
faintly replied, "Uniacke17," and walked on. One
of his eyes was blown out, and the flesh was torn
off his arms and legs. He had taken chocolate,
with our mess, an hour and a half before!


122


The regiment was now formed, and Colonel
M'Leod immediately detached officers with
guards, to take possession of all the stores they
could find, and to preserve order. These parties
ultimately dissolved themselves. If they had not
done so, they would have been engaged in the
streets with our own troops.


Colonel M'Leod caused Lieutenant Madden, of
the 43d, to descend the small breach with twenty-five
men, ordering him to continue at the foot of
it during the night, and to prevent soldiers leaving
the town with plunder. At eleven o'clock I
went to see him; he had no sinecure, and had
very judiciously made a large fire, which, of
course, showed the delinquents to perfection, who
were attempting to quit the town with plunder,
in the garb of friars, nuns, or enveloped in silk
counterpanes, or loaded with silver forks, spoons,
and church plate, all of which was of course taken
from them, and was piled up, to hand over to the
proper authorities on the following day. He told
me that no masquerade could, in point of costume
and grotesque figures, rival the characters he
stripped that night.


The fire was large, and surrounded by the dead
bodies of those who fell in the first onset at the
foot of the breach. The troops must have rushed
up and taken the latter without hesitation: had the
governor of the town only placed a few obstacles on123
the crest of the breach, he must have stopped the
entrance of the light division altogether. He had
time, as the firing from our batteries ceased two
hours before the assault, and then from the rampart
there was a gentle slope into the town, leading
into a narrow lane, which was blocked up with a
cart only, leaving a sufficient space for one person
to pass at a time. The Governor was most culpable!
There was no musquetry from any part of
the ramparts until the head of the light division
column was close to the small breach.—Amongst
others lay Captain Dobbs, of the 52d, on his back,
at the foot of the breach, and stripped of his
uniform. An officer at first thought he was a
Frenchman, who had tumbled headlong during
the strife from the top of the breach; but, while
he was holding a piece of lighted wood, to contemplate,
with admiration, his extremely placid
and handsome countenance, even in death, a
captain of the 52d knew it to be the body of poor
Dobbs. On lifting him up, the blood flowed
copiously from his back, a musket ball having
entered at the breast, and passed through his
body.—A soldier of the third division came up to
me and said, "Captain Hardyman, of the 45th, is
killed!" for although three generals and seventy
other officers had fallen, yet the soldiers fresh
from the strife talked of him; and if a soldier's
praise can add to a man's fame, certainly no one124
had a greater share than Hardyman; he was the
real type of a soldier, and kind to every one.


When the troops had sipped the wine and the
Cogniac brandy in the stores, the extreme disorders
commenced. To restore order was impossible;
a whole division could not have done it.
Three or four large houses were on fire, two of
them were in the market-place, and the town was
illuminated by the flames. The soldiers were
drunk, and many of them for amusement were
firing from the windows into the streets. I was
talking to the regimental barber, private Evans, in
the square, when a ball passed through his head.
This was at one o'clock in the morning. He fell
at my feet dead, and his brains lay on the pavement.
I then sought shelter, and found Colonel
M'Leod with a few officers in a large house,
where we remained until daylight. I did not
enter any other house in Ciudad Rodrigo; and
if I had not seen, I never could have supposed
that British soldiers would become so wild and
furious. It was quite alarming to meet groups
of them in the streets, flushed as they were with
drink, and desperate in mischief.


On the morning of the 20th the scene was
dreary; the fires just going out; and about the
streets were lying the corpses of many men who
had met their death hours after the town had
been taken. At eleven o'clock, I went to look125
at the great breach. The ascent was not so
steep as that of the small one, but there was a
traverse thrown up at each side of it on the rampart;
hence there was no way into the town,
as the wall was quite perpendicular behind the
breach. When the third division had gained the
top of the rampart, they were in a manner enclosed
and hemmed in, and had no where to
go, while the enemy continued to fire upon them
from some old ruined houses, only twenty yards
distant.


I counted more than sixty-three soldiers of the
third division lying dead on the terre-plein of the
rampart exactly between the traverses I have already
described. I did not see one dead soldier
of that division on the French side of those
traverses; but I saw some of the light division.


I saw General M'Kinnon lying dead on his
back, just under the rampart, on the inside, that
is, the town side. He was stripped of every
thing except his shirt and blue pantaloons; even
his boots were taken off. He was a tall thin man.
There were no others dead near him, and he was
not on the French side of the traverse either, nor
was there any possibility of getting at the General
without a ladder, or traversing a considerable
distance along the ramparts to descend into the
town, and then passing through several narrow
lanes, ruined houses, and over broken stone walls126
being a distance of at least a quarter of a mile, and
what no human being could have accomplished
during the night. It is said that he was blown
up. I should say not. There was no appearance
indicating that such had been his fate. Neither
the state of his skin nor the posture in which he
was lying, led me to think it. When a man is
blown up, his hands and face, I should think,
could not escape. I never saw any whose face
was not scorched. M'Kinnon's was pale, and
free from the marks of fire. How strange, that
with the exception of the General, I did not see a
soldier of the third division who had been stripped!
Neither was there any officer among the
dead, or else they had been carried away. I
should not wonder, (if it is not uncharitable,) that
the General had been killed with all the others
between the traverses, and that some tender-hearted,
follower of the army had taken his
clothes off, and then just given him a hand over
the wall, and so placed him in the position described.


The two divisions attacked without knapsacks.
The greater portion of the light division lay at the
foot of the small breach in the ditch; hence it
was that they fought on the slope, and rolled
down in succession as they were killed; but, on
gaining the ramparts (there being no interior
defences) they followed the French right and left,127
who retreated, panic-struck, into the interior of
the city, keeping up, however, a running fire
from the different streets, or the massive stone
buildings.


The third division, at the first onset, were fired
on from the parapets of the ramparts, and assailed
by missiles and live shells, which were rolled
from the summit of the wall: but the enemy did
not stand on the crest of the great breach to oppose
their ascent; for, if they had, it would have
been impossible to escape behind their traverses.
The enemy had left a space for one man to pass at
a time, on the left of the right traverse, but expecting
the attack, they had previously blocked it up
with barrels filled with earth, having placed others
behind to stand on for the purpose of firing over
them. Before the morning, all these barrels,
except one, were thrown down the scarped wall.
The fact is, that the third division mounted to
the terre-plein with facility; but when on the
rampart, they were fired on in front and both
flanks, as before described, and in this small
space, they suffered a tremendous loss of nearly
five hundred heroic officers and soldiers. During
the fighting, their dead and wounded were piled
one on the top of the other, crying out in agony
as they were trampled upon, and impeding the
progress of others, who exerted themselves in
vain amongst such havoc to carry the traverses.


128


The moment the wooden magazine blew up,
all firing nearly ceased, for the enemy literally
jumped over the right entrenchment on to the
terre-plein of the great breach, to save themselves
from the bayonets of the light division. A young
Italian officer there seized Captain Hopkins, of the
43rd, round the neck, and implored his life.


At about eleven o'clock in the morning (of the
20th) the great explosion took place a few yards to
the right of the small breach, blowing up the terre-plein
of the rampart, four yards in breadth and ten
in length. This fatal explosion (which was accidental,
owing to some sparks of fire igniting some
barrels of gunpowder in a casement,) happened
while the French garrison were marching out of
the city by the small breach, which had become so
hard, owing to such numbers of soldiers walking
up and down it, as to make the ascent nearly
impracticable. The French, as well as the British
soldiers, were carried up into the air, or jammed
amongst the rubbish, some with heads, arms, or
legs sticking out of the earth. I saw one of the
unfortunate soldiers in a blanket, with his face,
head, and body, as black as a coal, and cased in a
black substance like a shell; his features were no
longer distinguishable, and all the hair was singed
from off his head, but still the unfortunate man
was alive. How long he lived in this horrible
situation I cannot say.


129


A tall athletic soldier of the 52d lay amongst
the dead at the foot of the breach, on his back; his
arms and legs being at their full extent. The
top of his head, from the forehead to the back part
of his skull, was split in twain, and the cavity of
the head entirely emptied of the brains, as if a
hand-grenade had exploded within, and expanded
the skull, till it had forced it into a separation
with the parts ragged like a saw, leaving a gaping
aperture nine inches in length, and four in breadth.
For a considerable time I looked on this horrible
fracture, to define, if possible, by what missile or
instrument so wonderful a wound could have been
inflicted; but without being able to come to any
conclusion as to the probable cause.


From this place I walked to the convent of
Saint Francisco to see a wounded friend. The
interior was crowded with wounded soldiers lying
on the hard pavement. A soldier of the third
division was sitting against a pillar, his head bent
forward, and his chin resting on his breast, his
eyes open, and an agreeable smile on his countenance.
For half a minute I stopped with surprise to
observe him sitting in so contented a posture, surrounded
by the groans of his companions. At
length, I addressed him, but, no answer being returned,
I called a doctor, under the impression that
the man was delirious. On the contrary, we found
he was quite dead.


130


In the afternoon we returned to our quarters by
regiments across the stone bridge, having been
relieved by the fifth division, which came from
the rear, and took charge of the city.


A few days after the assault, most of the officers
of the light division attended General Craufurd's
funeral. He was buried under the wall near the
small breach.


In a few days we moved from La Encina to El
Bodon, where our principal amusement consisted
in playing at rackets, with wooden bats, against
the side of the church, or riding about the country.


One day we visited the heights about half a
league from this place, where, on the previous
September, a brigade of the third division had
been engaged. Many skeletons of the French
horses lay in deep ravines, or on the shelvings of
rocks, to the very summit of the ridge, on the
crest of which some of the Portuguese gunners
were cut down; and where for a short time the
cannon remained in the hands of the enemy. It
must have been at this moment that the second
battalion of the fifth regiment retook them by
charging in line, before the enemy's cavalry had
time to form. I rode up the ragged ground myself
with the utmost difficulty; the ground near
the summit was so steep that the Portuguese, while
throwing balls into the valley, could not see the
advance of the French cavalry until quite upon131
them. Not that I wish to detract from the deserts
of the Portuguese; but, as it has been stated that
they stood to their guns to the last, I only wish
to demonstrate how it happened. The very print
of the wheels of the cannon were still indented in
the ground, and showed, to an inch, where they
had stood.


The whole of the dead French soldiers lying in
the valley were stripped, and in a perfect state of
preservation, blanched like parchment by the alternate
rain and sunshine; and their skins had
become so hard, that the bodies on being touched
sounded like a drum. The vultures had picked
the bones of the horses perfectly clean, but had
left the soldiers untouched; and, although four
months had elapsed since they had fallen, their
features were as perfect as on the day they were
killed. Some of these soldiers were gracefully
proportioned, and extended in every possible
attitude.


The rubbish of the breaches at Ciudad Rodrigo
having been cleared away, the parapets built up
with gabions and fascines, all the trenches filled
up, and a garrison of Spanish soldiers left for its
defence—at the latter end of February we marched
towards Badajoz, for the purpose of laying siege
to that fortress, a distance of one hundred and
sixty miles, the road more than half way lying132
through the rocky provinces of Portugal, where
the villages are generally built on the tops of the
highest mountains, with the remains of Moorish
castles, or towers, studding the wildest rocks and
the most tremendous precipices.


We remained a week at Castello de Vida, then
resumed our march, and, on the 16th of March,
entered Elvas, the principal fortress on the
frontier of the Alentéjo, three leagues distant
from Badajoz. It is situated on a hill, flanked on
the right by a fort or citadel, half a mile without
its walls, and on the left by the fort La Lippe,
which stands on a scarped hill, a mile from the
town.


While quartering off the soldiers, I observed a
very pretty young lady looking out of a casement,
which occasioned her house to be selected for our
quarter. In the evening, myself and messmate
were invited to take chocolate and sweetmeats
with the family; and, before retiring, the good
old Senhora remarked our youthful appearance,
and begged that, should either of us be wounded,
we would come to her house. My companion was
subsequently shot through the body, and, being
conveyed back to Elvas, the mother and daughter
kindly watched over him until he was perfectly
recovered.




14 Now Major General Sir John Colborne.


15 During the siege, the enemy threw a vast quantity of shells.
One night two mortars kept up an incessant discharge; and the
soldiers called out "Here comes a shell from big Tom; and here
comes another from little Tom." All the cannon shot that flew
over our trenches lodged on a hill one mile north of the town,
at the base of which was a spring, where I saw a soldier killed
while stooping down to fill his canteen with water. This hill,
owing to its being so ploughed up with balls, was familiarly
named by the soldiers plumb-pudding hill.


16 Lieutenant Gurwood took the governor of the fortress
prisoner.


17 He died in excruciating agony.








133


CHAPTER VIII.






March from Elvas to Badajoz—Defences of that city—The investment—A
sortie—Operations of the batteries—Capture of
fort Picurina—Preparations for the grand assault—Advance of
the "forlorn hope"—Desperate encounter at the breaches—Loss
of life experienced by the British—The mode of attack
changed to escalade with success—The city sacked by the
British troops—Reflections respecting the conduct of the
siege—Incidental anecdotes.




On the morning of the 17th of March we formed
contiguous columns, outside the walls of Elvas,
and entering a spacious plain, passed the river Guadiana
by a pontoon bridge, a few miles below Badajoz,
which was garrisoned by nearly five thousand
French soldiers. It is situated on the margin of the
left bank of the Guadiana, in the province of Estremadura,
in Spain, and encompassed by an open
country, without a tree, a shrub, or even a hut to be
seen without its walls. The ramparts are about two
miles in circumference, and were protected by
the forts San Cristoval, Napoleon, and the Tête134
de Pont, at the head of the fine stone bridge,
which communicates with the right bank of the
Guadiana.


The fort Picurina, the outworks of Pardalaras,
and the lunette of Saint Roque, constituted the
general outworks of the city, on the left bank of
the river.


As we drew near the ramparts of the fortress,
we saw the flag of three colours majestically
waving on the top of the great lofty square tower,
in the centre of the old castle, which stands on
the summit of a hill, whose frowning battlements
overhang the town, and overlook the adjacent
plains for a considerable distance.


The third, fourth, and light divisions invested
the city on the left bank of the Guadiana18.


Our division bivouacked within one mile and a
half S.S.W. of the town, our position communicating
in a manner with the bridge of boats.
The day was fine; but at six o'clock in the evening
the rain began to fall in torrents, and continued
the whole night, which prevented the
enemy hearing the troops when they commenced
the first parallel, and the latter continued to work
all night without being molested.


Before daylight on the 18th, the parties fell in135
to relieve those of our division who had first broke
ground, a thousand yards S. E. of the town; we
had to make a quarter circle, which rendered the
march nearly three miles to the mouth of the
trench, where we arrived at daybreak, and I saw
the first shot; it was fired from the Fort Picurina,
and killed two poor fellows in the covering party
of the fourth division, which was formed under the
slope of a hill. In a few minutes the round shot came
up the road quite often enough to put our blood
into circulation; and we immediately took our
station under a small natural rise of ground, where
we remained covering the workmen for twelve
hours. The cannonade was pretty regular during
the day, both from the town and from Fort
Picurina.


We returned to camp an hour after dark, and
I was surprised to find the division had been supplied
with Portuguese tents. I found my friend
waiting in one for me, and the canteens laid out
with all the affection of a youthful soldier. I had
been exposed in the rain for twenty-five hours,
and this was one of the happiest moments of my
life.


On the 19th, at mid-day, the firing from the
town was very heavy; every one in the best position
for security, which it was not difficult to
obtain, as the trenches were well advanced, but136
every body cried "Keep down," for which truly
there was no occasion. Notwithstanding this
cry, Israel Wild, and another man of our regiment,
who was afterwards killed, (a splendid
soldier,) got on the top of the trench. I caught
hold of Israel's19 jacket, to pull him down, but he
turned round, and said, in a most furious manner,
"We know what we are about;" then looking
forward for a moment, shouted, with an oath, that
the French were coming on, and instantly sprung
out of the trench like a tiger, following his comrade,
just such another fine fellow. Two or three
French dragoons at that instant fired their pistols
into the trenches, having approached within a few
yards without being perceived. We had just
entered the mouth of the first parallel, and all
joined in a simultaneous attack on the enemy's
infantry, without regard to trenches or any thing
else. The French being beaten out of the advanced
lines, retired and formed line under the
castle, having two field-pieces on their left flank.
I cannot say how they entered the town, there
was so much smoke covering them, when near
the walls. General Philippon knew his business137
well. Fourteen hundred men came out—two battalions.


We had quite abandoned the trenches, and
approached near to the castle. I perceived two
soldiers of another division, who were stretched
close to where I stood: one was quite dead, a
round shot having passed through his body; the
other had lost a leg, his eyelids were closed, and
he was apparently dead. An adventurous Portuguese
began to disincumber him of his clothes.
The poor soldier opened his eyes and looked in the
most imploring manner, while the villain had him
by the belts, lifting him up. I gave the humane
Portuguese a blow with the back of my sabre, that
laid him prostrate for a time, by the side of the
soldier he was stripping.


I know not what became of the wounded man,
as my attention was attracted by an extraordinary
circumstance. I saw a heavy shot hopping along,
till it struck a soldier on the hip; down he went,
motionless. I felt confident that the wounded
man was not dead, and begged that some of his
comrades would carry him off to the rear, (we
were now retiring under a heavy cannonade);
my words were at first unheeded, but two soldiers,
at the risk of their lives, rushed back, and brought
him in, or he, with many others, would have been
starved to death, between our lines and the ramparts138
of the town. His hip was only grazed, and
his clothes untorn; but, of course, he was unable
to walk, and seemed to feel much pain, for he
groaned heavily.


The sortie took place about a quarter after
twelve; (military time, quite correct;) we were
filing into the trenches. The day was fine, and
the time well selected by the governor, as he concluded
that the front parallel would be vacant
while the relief was coming in; but there was an
order against that.


The trenches were very extensive. The weather
again became bad, and our right battery was silenced;
but when the great breaching battery was
completed, it fired salvos, which the enemy returned
in a similar manner from a battery just under the
castle-gate, on a commanding situation. One
morning, at daylight, the enemy brought a light
gun out of the town to enfilade the right of the
front parallel; but as the relief came in at the
time, I do not know the sequel of it.


The left of our lines, previously to the escalade
of Picurina, ran within about a hundred yards
parallel to it. One hundred of our regiment were
employed one night on the delightful job of carrying
the trenches across the Seville road. We
commenced at the distance of one hundred and
fifty yards from the fort. The instant the enemy139
heard the pickaxes striking on the hard road,
they opened, when, strange to relate, eleven
rounds of grape were poured on us, and yet only
one officer was hit. The gunners could not depress
their artillery so as to cover the spot we
were on.


I was surprised that they used no musketry;
but I imagine they had orders not to do so at
night, unless an attempt was made to escalade the
fort.


Picurina was situated on a rising ground, without
the least appearance of strength. Three hundred
of the enemy formed the garrison, and latterly
they were obliged to block up their embrasures
with sand-bags, to screen themselves from
the musketry of our lines; now and then they
cleared away to fire grape shot.


Towards the end of the siege the weather became
beautiful. One day in particular, the enemy
scarcely fired a shot, all our troubles were forgotten,
and two or three of us amused ourselves
by reading a novel in the trenches.


Lieutenant Wilkinson,20 was among the wounded
on that day. There was a path across a field, which140
communicated with our grand battery, and an order
forbade any person to cross it in the day-time, as
the French were continually firing small arms
whenever any lazy-fellow took that road. Poor
little Wilky's curiosity was excited; he made a
start out of fun, was just entering the battery,
when alas! he fell, shot through the thigh.


On the night of the 25th, a part of the third
division, and also one hundred of the light division,
carrying ladders, assailed Picurina, directed by
General Sir James Kempt, and for a long time
without success: no wonder! The ditch was
terrifically deep, and narrow at the bottom. The
soldiers walked round the fort, prying into all
corners, and got upon the gate, which they broke
down, and then entered, bayonets in advance.
The French grenadiers would not give in—a desperate
bayonetting took place, and much blood was
spilt; already five hundred French soldiers from
the town were at hand. The struggle continued
with hard fighting, inside and outside of the fort.
The enemy wished to vie with their comrades
who had defended Fort St. Christoval at the
former siege. Victory was some minutes doubtful;
at length the fort was taken, and the reinforcements
were beaten back into the town. I was
sitting at the door of my tent, and witnessed all
the firing.


141


The garrison of Badajoz fired every morning, for
a few days previously to the grand assault, a certain
number of rounds, as if for practice, and to
measure the ground.


The first order for storming the breaches fixed
it to take place on the 5th of April. I was informed
that my turn for trench duty fell on that evening,
because the officer just preceding me was out
of the way. I resolved to play a like trick, and
for a like reason, namely, not to miss the assault.
I therefore got a friend to persuade the Adjutant to
allow that the men should march off without me,
promising to follow. This anecdote I relate, because
of the curious circumstance that it led to.


When I was quite certain that the assault was
not to take place that night, I mounted my horse,
and, riding to the entrance of the first parallel, I
gave the animal to my batman, and proceeded on
foot. I had just crossed the trench, and got into
a field, taking a short cut, when I observed two
figures making towards me. There was not any
firing; a solemn silence reigned around. Coming
up at a half run, I put my hand to my sword, for
the night was clear, and I saw they were not soldiers;
they soon closed on me, demanding boldly,
and in Spanish, the way out of the trenches: I
pointed out the road to them, but, an instant after,
suspected they were not Spaniards, but spies. I142
noticed they kept their hands behind them, and I
thought it also very civil of them not to fire, for I
am confident they were well armed. "Buenas
noches, Señor," said they, and hastily retired.
When I reached the great battery, and found
every body in it asleep, I thought the place
bewitched. This was my last trip to the trenches.
Thirteen times I visited them during the
siege.


A long order was issued relative to the positions
the troops were to occupy. On the 6th of April,
the day was fine, and all the soldiers in good
spirits, cleaning themselves as if for a review.
About two o'clock I saw Lieutenant Harvest of
our regiment; he was sucking an orange, and
walking on a rising ground, alone, and very
thoughtful. It gave me pain, as I knew he was to
lead the "forlorn hope". He observed, "My
mind is made up; I am sure to be killed21."


At half-past eight o'clock that night the ranks
were formed, and the roll called in an under-tone.
Lieutenant-Colonel M'Leod spoke long and earnestly
to the regiment before it joined the division,
expressing the utmost confidence in the result of
the attack, and finished by repeating, that he left143
it to the honour of all persons to preserve discipline,
and not to commit any cruelty on the defenceless
inhabitants of the town.


The division drew up in the most profound
silence behind the large quarry, three hundred
yards from the three breaches, made in the
bastions of la Trinidad, and Santa Maria. A
small stream separated us from the fourth division.
Suddenly, a voice was heard from that direction,
giving orders about ladders, so loud, that it might
be heard by the enemy on the ramparts. It was
the only voice that broke on the stillness of the
moment; every body was indignant, and Colonel
M'Leod sent an officer to say that he would report
the circumstance to the General-in-Chief. I
looked up the side of the quarry, fully expecting
to see the enemy come forth, and derange the
plan of attack. It was at half-past nine this happened,
but, at a quarter before ten, the ill-timed
noise ceased, and nothing could be heard but the
loud croaking of the frogs.


At ten a carcass was thrown from the town;
this was a most beautiful fire-work, and illuminated
the ground for many hundred yards; two or
three fire-balls followed, and, falling in different
directions, showed a bright light, and remained
burning. The stillness that followed was the prelude
to one of the strangest scenes that the imagination
of man can conceive.


144


Soon after ten o'clock, a little whispering announced
that "the forlorn hope" were stealing forward,
followed by the storming parties, composed
of three hundred men, (one hundred from each
British regiment of our division;) in two minutes
the division followed22. One musket shot, no more,
was fired near the breaches by a French soldier,
who was on the look out. We gained ground
leisurely—but silently; there were no obstacles.
The 52nd, 43rd, and part of the rifle corps, closed
gradually up to column of quarter distance, left in
front; all was hushed, and the town lay buried in
gloom; the ladders were placed on the edge of the
ditch, when suddenly an explosion took place at
the foot of the breaches, and a burst of light disclosed
the whole scene:—the earth seemed to rock
under us:—what a sight! The ramparts crowded
with the enemy—the French soldiers standing on
the parapets—the fourth division advancing rapidly
in column of companies on a quarter circle to our
right, while the short-lived glare from the barrels
of powder and combustibles flying into the air,
gave to friends and foes a look as if both bodies of
troops were laughing at each other.


A tremendous firing now opened on us, and for145
an instant we were stationary; but the troops were
no ways daunted. The only three ladders were
placed down the scarp to descend into the ditch,
and were found exactly opposite the centre breach,
and the whole division rushed to the assault with
amazing resolution. There was no check. The
soldiers flew down the ladders, and the cheering
from both sides was loud and full of confidence.


While descending the ladders into the ditch,
furious blows were exchanged amongst the troops
in their eagerness to get forward; at the same time
grape-shot and musketry tore open their ranks. The
first officer I happened to see down was Captain
Fergusson, who had led on our storming-party
here, and at Rodrigo; he was lying to the right of
the ladders, with a wound on the head, and holding
a bloody handkerchief in his grasp23. I snatched
it out of his hand, and tied it round his head.
The French were then handing over the fire-balls,
which produced a sort of revolving light. The
ditch was very wide, and when I arrived at the
foot of the centre breach, eighty or ninety men
were formed. One cried out, "Who will lead?"
This was the work of a moment. Death, and the146
most dreadful sounds and cries encompassed us.
It was a volcano! Up we went; some killed, and
others impaled on the bayonets of their own comrades,
or hurled headlong amongst the outrageous
crowd.


The chevaux-de-frise looked like innumerable
bayonets. When within a yard of the top, I fell
from a blow that deprived me of sensation. I
only recollect feeling a soldier pulling me out of the
water, where so many men were drowned. I lost
my cap, but still held my sword. On recovering, I
looked towards the breach. It was shining and
empty! fire balls were in plenty, and the French
troops standing upon the walls, taunting, and
inviting our men to come up and try it again.


Colonel M'Leod was killed while trying to force
the left corner of the large breach24. He received
his mortal wound within three yards of the enemy,
just at the bottom of some nine-feet planks,
studded with nails, and hanging down the breach
from under the chevaux-de-frise.


At half-past eleven the firing slackened, and
the French detached soldiers from the breaches to
repulse the other attacks, and to endeavour to
retake the castle. I heard the enemy calling out147
on the ramparts in German, "All is well in Badajoz!"


The British soldiers did as much as men could
do. The wood-work of the chevaux-de-frise was
ponderous, bristling with short stout sword-blades
fastened in it, and chained together. It was
an obstacle not to be removed, and the French
soldiers stood close to it, killing deliberately every
man who approached it. The large breach was
at one time crowded with our brave troops; I
mean the fourth division, the heroes of many
hard-fought victories and bloody fields. The light
division had recently been crowned with victory;
but to remove such obstacles was impracticable
by living bodies, pushing against them up a steep
breach, and sinking to the knees every step in
rubbish, while a fearless enemy stood behind
pushing down fragments of masonry and live
shells, and firing bullets, fixed on the top of
pieces of wood, the sides of which were indented
with seven or eight buck shot.


Generals Picton, Colville, Kempt, Bowes,
Hervey, Walker, Champlemond, and almost every
officer commanding regiments, besides more than
three hundred officers, and between four and five
thousand gallant veteran soldiers, fell around these
walls.


148


The left breach25 had not been attempted at all
until a quarter before twelve o'clock, when Captain
Shaw of our regiment26, collecting about seventy
men of different regiments, and with great difficulty,
after such slaughter for two hours, made a
desperate effort to gain the top; but when half-way
up, as if by enchantment, he stood alone.
Two rounds of grape and the musketry prevented
any more trouble, for almost the whole of the
party lay stretched in various attitudes!


Captain Nichols27, of the Engineers, was of the
number; he now showed great courage; and
when asked by Shaw, if he would try the left
breach, answered he would do any thing to succeed.
A grape-shot went through his lungs, and
he died three days after.


This attack was very daring. It was a forlorn
hope, under accumulated dangers; almost all the
troops had retired28, and, a few moments before, a149
great alarm was excited by a cry from the heaps
of wounded, that the French were descending
into the ditch. To exaggerate the picture of
this sanguinary strife is impossible:—the small
groups of soldiers seeking shelter from the
cart-wheels, pieces of timber, fire-balls, and
other missiles hurled down upon them; the
wounded crawling past the fire-balls, many of
them scorched and perfectly black, and covered
with mud, from having fallen into the lunette,
where three hundred soldiers were suffocated or
drowned; and all this time the French on the
top of the parapets, jeering and cracking their
jokes, and deliberately picking off whom they
chose. The troops lining the glacis could not
fire sufficiently, as they were terribly exposed,
and could scarcely live from the cross fire of
grape-shot.


Colonel Barnard29 did all in his power to concentrate
the different attacks. It was in vain;
the difficulties were too great. But Badajoz was
not the grave of the light division's valour, nor of
the fourth division's either.


Philippon, the governor, a Frenchman, and our
enemy, gave the full particulars of this affair to a150
friend of mine, while travelling in England; he
said that he thought the great explosion would have
finished the business, but he was astonished at
the resolution of the British troops, who, he said,
were fine fellows, and deserved a better fate.


The single musket-shot, fired just as the "forlorn
hope" descended the ditch, was a signal of
their approach, which shows how determined the
French were to have a good blow-up, for not a
ball was fired before the explosion. The efforts
of the garrison to preserve the place did them
much honour. Philippon was determined not to
do as the governor of Ciudad Rodrigo had done.
Had not the Earl of Wellington planned the two
extreme attacks by escalade, on the castle, by
the third division, and on the south side of the
town by part of the fifth division, and on the Fort
Pardalaras by the Portuguese, the result might have
been very serious. The Duke of Dalmatia was
within a few leagues, and opposite Generals
Hill30 and Graham31. The Duke of Ragusa had
pushed his advanced dragoons as far as the Bridge
of Boats at Villa Velha, and at length got entangled
in the labyrinths of Portugal. I have heard
and read of sitting down before a town, opening151
trenches, blowing up the counterscarp, and all
according to rule; but this was a crisis, time was
precious, added to which the Guadiana ran in our
rear, and the pontoon bridge had been carried
away once during the siege, by the swelling of the
river.


When the French soldiers found that the town
was falling by escalade on the south side, and
that the castle was lost to them, they made an
attempt to retake the latter by an old gate, leading
towards the town; that gate was pierced by their
musketry in numberless places. I never saw a
target better covered with holes. The third division
had in return twice discharged a gun through
it, which made two large holes. An old handspike
was placed under its breech to depress it,
and remained precisely in the same way three
days afterwards. The scaling-ladders were well
placed, five quite close together, against an old
round tower. Many slain soldiers had evidently
been pushed from off the parapet, and rolled
nearly fifty yards down the hill; some lay with
heads battered to pieces, whilst others were
doubled up, looking scarcely human, and their
broken limbs twisted in all directions.


The third division had been obliged to cross the
broken bridge over the small river Revellas, rank
entire, (amidst a shower of grape-shot, bullets, and152
bursting of shells,) and during the work of death
to drag the unwieldy ladders up a rugged hill, to
plant them against the walls: their first effort
failed; many of the enemy then, contrary to
General Philippon's orders, evacuated the Castle,
and went to assist at the breaches. At this moment,
Lieutenant-Colonel Ridge of the fifth regiment
called on an officer of his corps, "There,
you mount one ladder, and I will lead up the
other. Come on Fifth, I am sure that you will
follow your commanding officer." He was killed;
but the place was carried!


Let us pause and reflect that this act of heroism
was executed after a long and fearful struggle, high
walls and defeat staring them in the face.


The third division then filled the castle, and there
remained until day light. On the south side of
the town, General Walker's brigade of the fifth
division32, hearing the rolling fire at the breaches,
became impatient, and, with a simultaneous rush,
gained (by escalade) the top of the walls, and even
formed on the ramparts. On seeing a light, the cry
of a mine was set up, and a short panic ensuing,
the enemy at the same time charging forward at a
run with fixed bayonets and shouting loudly, these
troops were forced to give ground. An officer informed153
me, that he had thrown himself over the
ramparts to save the colours of his corps, while
nearly surrounded by French grenadiers. This
bold fellow had the choice of either being pinned
to the wall, or the risk of breaking his neck: he
chose the latter. The rear regiment, however, fortunately
stood firm. Many of the enemy then
precipitately abandoned the town, accompanied by
the Governor, crossed the bridge, and shut themselves
up in Fort St. Christoval, on the other side
of the Guadiana; and the next morning surrendered
themselves prisoners of war. This brigade
continued to be hotly engaged in the streets during
the whole night. Some even asserted, that many
of the Spaniards fired from their windows on our
troops, and held out lights to guide the French;
knowing that their property would fall a sacrifice,
should the town be taken.


The place was eventually completely sacked by
our troops; every atom of furniture broken; mattresses
ripped open in search of treasure; and one
street literally strewed with articles, knee-deep.
A convent was in flames, and the poor nuns in
dishabille, striving to burrow themselves into some
place of security; however, that was impossible;
the town was alive, and every house filled with
mad soldiers, from the cellar to the once solitary
garret.


154


When I examined the three breaches by day,
and witnessed the defences the enemy had made
for their protection, I was fully satisfied that they
were impregnable to men; and I do declare, most
positively, that I could not have surmounted the
chevaux-de-frise, even unopposed, in the day-time.


Some talk that grappling-irons would have
moved them. Who would, who could have done it?
thousands of warlike French soldiers standing
firmly up to the points, not giving an inch, and
ready for the fight. They fought in the streets to
the last, and tried to retake the castle—Que voulez-vous?


The chevaux-de-frise were fixed after dark.
Round-shot alone could have destroyed these defences,
which were all chained together, and not
made in a temporary manner, as most military
men imagine, but strong and well finished; and
the enemy, behind all, had made a deep cut, over
which they had thrown planks, communicating
with the town, besides three field-pieces to enfilade
the centre breach, if the chevaux-de-frise should
be seriously shaken. Had it not been for this, the
divisions would have entered like a swarm of
bees.


One man only was at the top of the left breach
(the heaps of dead had, as a matter of course,
rolled to the bottom), and that was one of the155
rifle corps who had succeeded in getting under the
chevaux-de-frise. His head was battered to pieces,
and his arms and shoulders torn asunder with
bayonet wounds.


Our batteries did not play on the ramparts that
night after dark; but when the explosion took
place, the whole of them opened with blank cartridge
in our rear—probably to frighten the
enemy, or to make them keep down; but they were
old soldiers, and not to be so done.


Poor M'Leod, in his 27th year, was buried half
a mile from the town, on the south side, nearly
opposite our camp, on the slope of a hill. We did
not like to take him to the miserable breach, where,
from the warmth of the weather, the dead soldiers
had begun to turn, and their blackened bodies had
swollen enormously; we, therefore, laid him
amongst some young springing corn; and, with
sorrowful hearts, six of us (all that remained of the
officers able to stand) saw him covered in the
earth. His cap, all muddy, was handed to me,
I being without one, with merely a handkerchief
round my bruised head, one eye closed, and also
a slight wound in my leg.


The country was open. The dead, the dying,
and the wounded were scattered abroad; some in
tents, others exposed to the sun by day, and the
heavy dew at night. With considerable difficulty,156
I found at length my friend, Lieutenant Madden,
lying in a tent with his trowsers on and his
shirt off, covered with blood, bandaged across
the body to support his broken shoulder, laid on
his back, and unable to move. He asked for his
brother.—"Why does he not come to see me?"
I turned my head away; for his gallant young
brother (a captain of the 52nd) was amongst the
slain!


Captain Merry, of the 52nd, was sitting on the
ground sucking an orange. He said, "How are
you?—You see that I am dying; a mortification
has ensued." A grape-shot had shattered his
knee; and he had told the doctor that he preferred
death rather than to permit such a good leg to be
amputated. Another officer had just breathed his
last between these two sufferers.


The camp became a wilderness, some of the
tents being thrown down, others vacant, and
flapping in the wind, while the musketry still
rattled in the town, announcing the wild rejoicing
of our troops.




18 Some Portuguese troops watched the right bank of the river
on the side of Portugal, but, during the latter end of the siege,
part of the fifth division under General Leith took that duty.


19 I have often been told, from undoubted authority, that this
soldier was one of the first who entered the small breach at
Rodrigo, and whose Stentorian voice rose above the din of
arms.


20 He was mortally wounded at New Orleans, as Brigade-major,
while scrambling up the enemy's lines. His horse had been killed
under him. He was taken prisoner, and died raving mad from
the agony of the wound through his body.


21 He was killed; and his twin-brother, of the 52nd light infantry,
fell two years after at St. Sebastian, also at the head of
twenty-five volunteers from that regiment.


22 This was with the exception of the two regiments of Portuguese
Caçadores, who were left in reserve in the quarries; but
many of them afterwards came towards the breaches.


23 He had also two unhealed body wounds open, which he had
received at Rodrigo, and one in the trenches at Badajoz a few
days before. He now commands the 52nd regiment.


24 The right corner looking from the ramparts; but, as we
attacked, it was on the left.


25 There was a trench three feet wide and four deep, cut
between the centre and left breach, which was choked up with
the dead and wounded.


26 Now Lieut.-Colonel Shaw.


27 The engineer officers suffered terribly in killed and wounded
during the siege, as they joined in all the desperate attacks.


28 The fourth and light divisions retired at midnight from the
breaches; but many of the soldiers did not leave the ditch,
being unable to ascend the ladders owing to the heaps of dead
and wounded. The fourth division descended opposite the large
breach by only two ladders.


29 Now General Sir A. Barnard.


30 Now Lord Hill, commander-in-chief of the British army.


31 Now Lord Lynedoch.


32 The fifth division took the city of Badajoz, and the third
division the castle.








157


CHAPTER IX.






Movements of the enemy after the fall of Badajoz—March of
the British light and third divisions towards Ciudad Rodrigo—Dispositions
for a fresh campaign—Excellent marching arrangement
of the light division—Occupation of Salamanca by
the British, and investment of the forts—Advance of the
French army—Skirmishing and cannonading—Surrender of
the forts by the French—English quarters at Rueda, and
amusements there—Movements of the author's division—A
breakfast party broken up—Personal escape of the commander-in-chief—Active
manœuvres of the contending forces—Retrograde
movement of the British towards Salamanca—Relative
position of the two armies—Battle of Salamanca.




The Duke of Dalmatia, on hearing of the fall of
Badajoz, retraced his steps towards Seville, followed
by the British cavalry, under General Sir
S. Cotton33.


On the 11th of April, the light and third divisions
crossed the fine stone bridge to the right
bank of the Guadiana, and entered Campo-Mayor.
The march of the troops presented the most warlike
appearance. Many of the soldiers' blood-stained
and torn uniforms were discoloured from
explosions; numbers of the soldiers held their158
arms in slings, and carried their firelocks and
caps slung on their knapsacks; whilst others
were seen with bandaged heads, or lame from
contusions through wounds inflicted by the iron-crows'
feet with which the enemy had strewed the
ditch of Badajoz. In this manner did all those
gallant soldiers, who were able to join their ranks,
trudge along for ten days, for the purpose of
chasing out of the province of Beira the Duke of
Ragusa, who now blockaded and threatened the
fortresses of Almeida and Ciudad Rodrigo.
Every morning before day light we were creeping
over the rough, flinty, and winding roads along
the Cordon of Portugal, until we reached the
neighbourhood of Ciudad Rodrigo, from which
place the enemy had retired on our approach.


On the 19th of May, General Sir R. Hill, with
the second division, attacked, and carried by
escalade, and destroyed the forts Napoleon,
Ragusa, and the Tête de Pont, which guarded the
bridge of boats thrown across the Tagus near
Almaraz in Spanish Estremadura. As the summer
came on, officers and soldiers rejoined us with
wounds scarcely healed; others arrived from
England to fill up the vacant ranks. A fresh
campaign was in contemplation, and the officers
from various divisions of the army flocked merrily
into Ciudad Rodrigo.


On the 12th of June, the army crossed the river159
Agueda, the light division leading the centre
column. The march of the light division was
worthy of notice. The men were not tormented
by unnecessary parades—the march was their
parade; that over, the soldiers (except those on
duty) made themselves happy, while those with
sore feet, by such a system, had rest, which enabled
them to be with their comrades, when, by a
mistaken notion of discipline, it would have been
otherwise: their equipment was regularly examined,
nor were the men on any pretence permitted
to overload themselves—one of the most serious
afflictions to an army. A general may be endowed
with transcendant abilities, and by a forced march
place himself in a situation to overthrow his
enemies; he may possess the number of divisions,
and the number of regiments, but through
internal bad management, half his army may
be straggling in the rear. Again, nothing is
so pernicious as keeping the soldiers under arms,
while the officers are rambling about: it destroys
all esprit, causing the officers to forget the sufferings
of the men after a weary march, and creating
feelings of dislike towards them in the breasts of
the soldiers. Such a system did not exist in the
light division; and when a young officer fell in
action, the old soldiers proffered their services
with parental care.


160


The baggage followed the line of march in succession.
The mules of each company were tied
together, and conducted by two batmen in rotation,
right or left in front, according to the order
of march. Each regiment found an officer, and
each brigade a captain to superintend. The
alarm-post for them in camp was on the reverse
flank of respective regiments. When the enemy
were at hand, the baggage was ordered to the rear,—the
distance according to circumstances.


The army was four days clearing the forest,
which was clothed with verdure, and supplied the
most delightful bivouacks. The Sierra de Gata
lay on the right hand, covered with snow, while a
cloudless sky formed our canopy, and the sunshine
of hope and happiness was beaming on every
countenance, not excepting those of the growling
surly batmen, who were seen to smile at finding
forage at hand for their animals.


On the fourth day the division encamped within
two leagues of Salamanca, and quite clear of the
wood. The German hussars had an affair on that
day with the enemy's cavalry. The officers of
hussars described it to us, and related the conversation
that took place between them and the
French dragoons stationed on picquet in front of
Salamanca. The enemy requested the Germans
not to charge; the hussars replied, while advancing,161
that if the French fired, they would. The
enemy then fired their carbines to stop their progress.
The hussars charged, and cut most of
them down.


The next morning we advanced, and pushed a
body of the rifle corps to feel their way through a
village, near Salamanca, which they found to be
unoccupied by the enemy. The division then
brought up their left shoulders, and passed in open
column of companies within cannon range of the
forts, situated on the right bank of the Tormes,
and within a short distance of the north side of
the town. The enemy stood on the ramparts to
see us pass; the whole plain was covered by our
cavalry and infantry, crowding towards the ford of
Santa Martha, where we all forded the river,
and bivouacked a short distance from the town.
The French army had retired, leaving eight hundred
men to garrison the three forts of St. Vincente,
Gayetano, and Merced, that were constructed
with the masonry extracted from the different handsome
convents, monasteries, and colleges, which
had been pulled down to be converted into bastions.


The sixth division took possession of Salamanca,
and invested the forts. Soon after we had taken
up our ground, most of the officers hurried into the
town; the inhabitants appeared much rejoiced to
see us, and, as I entered, two ladies ran towards162
me, each seizing a hand. My Rozinante dropped
her head in search of food, as I believe she had
not enjoyed a feed that day, while I looked right
and left, and thought such congratulations very
romantic. The Señoras, in black silk, put numerous
questions, few of which I could understand,
nor am I confident whether they were civil or military,
although, from the expression of their eyes,
I concluded that they were on a civil subject. I
much admired the female peasantry; they were
healthy, well-made, with black eyes, red lips,
little feet, and wore red, yellow, and blue petticoats.


Soon after, I ascended to the top of the cathedral,
to reconnoitre the forts, when I had a full
view into the interior of them, and saw that
musketry might have been applied with effect from
this point. I then descended, and entered into
the festivities and pleasures of the place.


In the evening the town was illuminated, and
resounded with music, while the merry Spanish
muchachas were dancing boleros, and striking
their castanets in the streets. The glare of light
was reflected from the bright arms piled in the
great square, surrounded by soldiers of the sixth
division, many of whom were destined soon to fall
within a few hundred yards of the fascinating scene.


163


Our division advanced the next day, and took
up its ground a league and a half in front of Salamanca.
On the 20th a staff officer rode up to a
group of us, and said, "The enemy are advancing."
I rode up the side of the position of
St. Christoval, and descried them afar off in the
vast plain. The division then fell in, and were
ordered to crown the heights, which they did;
and at the same time some Spanish regiments
came in our rear, with two pieces of cannon: the
mules became restive; some went one way, and
some another—every way but the right: they
became entangled in their harness; some kicking,
and others feeding on the uncut corn, and, finally,
during this mutiny of the mules a gun was upset,
and, rolling over the bank into the road, quite
deranged the dignity of the Spanish march.


The different divisions of the army were now ascending
the heights of St. Christoval at many
points. The French army continued to advance,
and soon after began to debouche from the different
roads in order of battle. The view was not
obstructed; the country was level, covered with a
sheet of corn, as far as the eye could reach. To
those fond of military evolutions, the scene was
bold; to those of more tranquil habits, time was
given to pray for the good of their own souls,164
and, if charitably inclined, for the rest of the
army.


At first our division deployed on the left of the
front line; then again moved, and took post in the
centre of the second line; the whole army were
deployed in two lines, to oppose the enemy, the
cavalry to the right, and also some detached on
the left, to scour the plain between us and Salamanca,
where part of the sixth division remained
to cover the forts of that place. The whole army
present consisted of seven divisions, besides cavalry,
artillery, the before-mentioned Spaniards,
and some Portuguese infantry.


At five o'clock in the afternoon the French
cavalry approached by the valley to the left of our
position, where our light dragoons began to skirmish
with them, and showed some disinclination
to give ground; the enemy brought up six guns,
and opened on our squadrons in reserve, when the
dispute ended.


Towards evening the French made an attack on
part of the seventh division, occupying a village
at the base, and on the right of our position;
after some sharp work, it was carried by the
enemy. A brisk cannonade then took place to
our right between the two armies. Night put an
end to the firing. The whole army slept on their165
arms in order of battle, and after dark the
picquets were placed at the foot of our position.


An hour before daybreak, the troops stood to
their arms, fully expecting to be attacked. The dark
shades dispersed; the sun rose; both armies tranquil,
notwithstanding their proximity; the enemy
were full in view, without a bush, or any obstacle
to prevent close quarters. Their right was
thrown back in échelon of divisions. I suppose
our General-in-chief wished them to come a little
nearer, but the Duke of Ragusa was now cautious,
for his army was inferior in numbers.


Our position was covered with uncut corn,
which served the cavalry for forage, and the infantry
for beds. The contending armies caused
great devastation, and trampled down the ripe
wheat for miles around. The river Tormes ran
about two miles in our rear, with two fords. Our
division was now withdrawn from the line, and
placed as a column of reserve in rear and centre
of the army: it protected the fords in our rear, and
might be used as a moveable mass either to resist
cavalry, or assist where required.


The Earl of Wellington was stationary from
morning till night, watching the enemy, generally
alone and on foot, at the crest of the hill,
and in the centre of the position. His staff
approached him one at a time to receive orders.166
At night the Earl slept on the ground, wrapped
in his cloak.


The troops were much inconvenienced for want
of water, as the river was at some distance, and
only a few men could be spared, since it was impossible
to know at what moment the enemy might
not attack. Some Spanish ladies came from Salamanca,
and walked through our lines. On the
third night the French retired; our division took
ground to the right, and were posted on the bare
and conical hill of Cabrerizos. It appeared necessary
that the forts and the command of the
bridge at Salamanca should be secured before we
made any forward movement. The Duke of
Ragusa evidently wished to gain time, and to continue
in the vicinity to succour the forts, also to
infuse courage into the little garrisons, until his
reinforcements should arrive.


The Earl of Wellington remained on the hill of
Cabrerizos the whole day. The sun shone with
great brilliancy, and it was burning hot. One of
the soldiers of the 43d put up a blanket to keep
the rays of the sun from his lordship. Our bivouac
presented a droll appearance, as the whole
division had hoisted blankets in a similar manner.
A Spanish muchacha, with sandy hair, named
Agueda, from the pueblo of Fuente de Guinaldo,
who preferred the sound of the bugle-horn to her167
domestic occupations, was the sole female to be
seen amid the sun-burnt soldiers, and the brilliant
masses, that now covered hill and dale, ready at a
moment to deploy in battle array. The breaches
at the forts were now considered practicable. At
about nine o'clock at night the attack commenced;
but after some time the firing became slack, and I
saw three rockets thrown up from the forts; they
were immediately answered by several rounds of
artillery from the French army, on a rising ground
two leagues to our right, which instantly satisfied
me that the assault had not succeeded,
and that it was done as a signal that they were
still at hand.


On the morning of the 25th, at daylight, we
heard some firing on the other side of the Tormes
during a dense fog, which at first prevented the
force of the enemy from being ascertained. The
Earl of Wellington would not move. The soldiers
laughed, and said, "Oh, they are only shaking
their blankets on the other side of the water;"
for in heavy weather musketry produced sounds
such as I have described. As the fog cleared
away, a few rounds of artillery took place; and
the General-in-Chief sent a sufficient body of
troops by the ford in rear of St. Christoval to
meet the enemy. When the atmosphere cleared,
we saw about a division of the French moving168
towards Salamanca. They were opposed by our
heavy cavalry, which had been placed there to
secure the flank and rear of our army.


At seven that evening, the French re-crossed,
unmolested, to the right bank of the Tormes, by
a ford a league to our right. I did not consider
the movement a serious one, but merely as
intended to encourage the soldiers in the forts to
hold out.


On the 27th, St. Vincente being in flames,
the enemy permitted our troops to ascend the
breaches without opposition. It was a sort of
half assault and half surrender. The troops in
the other forts also laid down their arms, having
suffered severely; and only marched out three
hundred out of eight, their original force, and
many of those scorched by the flames, or otherwise
hurt.


The army now moved forward. Our division
supported the cavalry, and advanced towards
Ruêda. On the 2d of July, Captain Bull's horse
artillery and the cavalry overtook the enemy's rear
guard near that place. Although the country
appeared open, it was unfit for cavalry, as it was
intersected with small vines, the size of gooseberry-bushes.
On entering the town, I observed
five of the French killed from the fire of the six-pounders.


169


The division bivouacked round the town; and
the next morning we moved about two leagues in
advance, and rather to the left, where an interchange
of shots took place between the left of our
army and the enemy, near Pollos, who had no
idea of permitting us to cross the Douro at that
time, as the French Marshal wished to maintain
his line on that river for the base of his future
operations. We then returned, and took up our
quarters in Ruêda. Pay was issued, all of which
we spent in gaieties and iced wines. The inhabitants
had all returned to their dwellings. The
mayor was informed that the officers would give a
ball; when he procured Señoritas, according to
custom. It was extremely pleasant, with waltzing,
and all the fascinating mazes of the Spanish
country-dance in perfection. The Marquis of
Worcester, and others of the Earl of Wellington's
staff attended.


On the evening of the 16th July our division was
ordered to quit Ruêda, and marched the whole
night over a dusty and arid country; and towards
morning we took up our ground near Castréjon.
During this day the Valencians (commonly called
the lemonade-men) came into our bivouac, the sure
harbingers of the approach of the enemy. These
men wear a spiral cap, of felt or leather, and have
jet black ringlets hanging down each side of their170
dark olive faces; and their fierce black eyes give
them a noble expression of countenance. A white
linen jacket is thrown over the shoulder, and
a red sash encircles their loins; they also wear a
white linen kilt, like our Highland soldiers, reaching
to the cap of the knee; the white half stockings
are gartered under the knee, which is bare;
and hempen sandals are tied round the feet.
They carry a long tin can, strapped on their
backs, cased in the bark of the cork-tree, which
keeps cool the lemonade with which they are
filled. These men generally marched with the
French columns, and acted as spies to both
parties. Just before nightfall, the company
was ordered a quarter of a league to the front on
picquet; the country was open, and, as the
cavalry passed, I heard a staff-officer giving
orders, which led me to suspect that the enemy
were at hand.


At break of day on the 18th, a few shots
were exchanged to our right; the firing increased,
and the cheering might be distinctly heard at
intervals, as the sun rose above the horizon.


Our dragoons became visible while retiring
before the enemy's horse and light artillery, which
at intervals were blazing away. The scene was
sublime and beautiful. An officer said to me,
"There will be a row this day; however, we had
better get our breakfast, as God knows when we171
shall have any thing to eat, unless we take advantage
of the present moment." The tea service
being laid out, and a stubble fire kindled, to warm
the bottom of the kettle, we suddenly espied some
squadrons of French heavy dragoons in a valley to
our right, pushing for the main road at full trot.
An absurd and ludicrous scene now took place.
The crockery was thrown into the hampers; also
the kettle, half filled with hot water; another
officer, who had come to déjeûne with us, from the
rear, all the while vociferating, "God bless me!
you will not desert my mule and hampers; they
are worth four hundred dollars." In fact, to get
off seemed impossible; the company, however,
formed column of sections, and fixed bayonets,
fully determined to cover the old mule, who went
off with a rare clatter, and we after him, in double-quick
time. The enemy were now within two
hundred yards of us, brandishing their swords,
and calling out, when they suddenly drew up on
seeing some of our cavalry hovering on their right
flank. A rivulet, with steep banks, ran parallel
with the road; but we soon found a ford, where
we drew up, intending to dispute the passage.
The right brigade of our division had moved forward,
and had deployed to the succour of our dragoons
first engaged, about half a mile to our right.
Soon after this, two squadrons of our light dragoons172
formed on a rising ground, two hundred
yards from us, with two pieces of horse artillery
on their right, when about an equal number of
French heavy cavalry, handsomely dressed, with
large fur caps, made rapidly towards them, our
guns throwing round shot at them during their advance.
When they had arrived within one hundred
yards of our squadrons, they drew up to get wind,
our dragoons remaining stationary34.


A French officer, the chef d'escadron, advanced
and invited our people to charge, to beguile a few
moments, while his squadrons obtained a little
breathing time. He then held his sword on high,
crying aloud, "Vive l'Empereur! en avant,
Français!" and rushed on single-handed, followed
by his men, and overthrowing our light
dragoons. The guns had fortunately limbered up,
and the horse-artillery fought round them with
great spirit, the enemy trying to cut the traces,
while the poor drivers held down their heads,
sticking their spurs into the horses' sides with all
their might, and passed the ford under cover of
our picquet. The Earl of Wellington was in the173
thick of it, and only escaped with difficulty. He
also crossed the ford, with his straight sword
drawn, at full speed, and smiling. I did not see
his lordship when the charge first took place, but
he had a most narrow escape; and, when he
passed us, he had not any of his staff near him,
and was quite alone, with a ravine in his rear.


A few stragglers of each party still continued
engaged, and this part of the affray took place
within twenty yards of us. One of our dragoons
came to the water with a frightful wound; his
jaw was entirely separated from the upper part of
his face, and hung on his breast; the poor fellow
made an effort to drink in that wretched condition.


The round shot now flew in various directions;
one spun through a cottage behind us, and the
shepherd ran out in great terror. The light division
now commenced its retreat from the vicinity
of Castréjon. The French had crossed the
river Douro with reinforcements, and had made
an amazing march to take us in flank. We had
only retrograded a short way, when we obtained a
view of the bulk of the French army, pushing
forward on a ridge of hills to our left. The first
false attack had been made at daylight on our
right and in front, merely to draw all our force to
that point, while the Duke of Ragusa executed
this movement. The fourth division were retiring
in mass, within range of the enemy's fire, being174
critically situated in the valley, while the French
cannon rolled on the crest of the hills above, and
poured in their shot with effect on their right flank.


Our division was obliquely to the rear, in column
of quarter distance, with fixed bayonets,
ready to form square,35 surrounded by large bodies
of our cavalry. To avoid an action seemed impossible.
The enemy's infantry were almost on
the run, and we were marching away from them
as hard as we could. While the round shot from
a flank fire flew over us, a French division came
running to engage and detain us until others came
up, and obliged us to abandon the road, and
trample down a tract of wheat. The heavy German
cavalry drew close round us. The country
was open, and a vast sheet of corn enveloped us
for many miles. The men became much distressed,
owing to the rapidity of the movements
and heat of the day. We were again
enabled to regain the road (owing to our numerical
superiority of cavalry), which made a curve
down a gentle descent; and the men descried, at
a short distance, a dirty meandering stream, called
the Guarena, near Castrillo. A buzz ran through
the ranks that water was at hand, and the soldiers
were impelled forward, with their eyes staring and
mouths open; and when within fifty yards of the175
stream, a general rush was made. I never saw
the troops during my service so thirsty. The
discipline of the division was such, that I have
seen them pass clear water, unbroken, in the
hottest weather, suffering under fatigue known
only to those under the weight of a knapsack and
accoutrements.


All this took place under a cannonade, which
had continued, at intervals, for more than ten
miles. This was following up with a vengeance.
We had no sooner crossed the river than some
squadrons of the enemy's cavalry galloped up a
hill immediately overlooking us. The division
now moved more leisurely; and every one was
aware that had our cavalry given way, the division
must have halted to repulse charges, which would
have given time for the French infantry to come
up; and had that been the case, the struggle
must have been very sanguinary. Our reserves
now being at hand, we soon halted on a round
hill, and showed front. The fourth division did
the same; when a brigade of the enemy, covered
with dust, came in contact with an equal number
of the fourth division; who, firing a volley,
charged with the bayonet, and overthrew the
French in good style, taking many prisoners.


The French army had done their best to overtake
us, but became glad of a halt as well as
ourselves, and the firing ceased. We remained176
stationary during the day, when I fell asleep; and
after some time, I suddenly awoke, with my lips
glued together, and my person almost roasted by
the scorching rays of the sun; and actually crawled
some distance before I knew where I was. Dry
biscuit was served out; but we could not get any
water until eleven at night, when I obtained a
draught of dirty water out of my batman's canteen;
however, it cooled my inside; and I believe
that many hundreds dreamed that night of
limpid streams.


On the 19th the troops stood to their arms an
hour before daybreak; but the enemy continued
stationary, and well they might, as they had made
the previous night and day an enormous march to
cut us off in detail, according to the Duke of
Ragusa's favourite expression; however, at four
o'clock in the afternoon the Earl of Wellington
rode up to Lieutenant Wilkinson of the 43d, who
was on picquet, and said, "What are the enemy
doing?" Wilkinson replied, "The French are in
motion." The dust was flying upwards from
behind the ridge of hills in our front. The
General-in-chief said, "Yes—to the right now;"
and ordered the first brigade of our division to
make a corresponding movement, by crossing a
valley, to prolong our right. We ascended a high
hill, and formed on our original front, when the
French army issued from behind the hills, presenting177
a martial appearance, and a grand display
of moving squadrons, with brazen helmets, and
a great body of infantry flanked by their cannon.


The river Guarena was nearly dried up, and
was the only obstacle between the contending
armies, as the face of the country still continued
bare and hilly, without even a tree to be seen. The
Duke of Ragusa entered the valley to reconnoitre,
surrounded by a numerous staff, when two guns
of our horse-artillery opened, and a ball struck
on the ground, and knocked up the dust in
the very centre of the group, without killing any
one: they took the hint, and shifted their ground.


Eight of the enemy's guns instantly began a
heavy firing on our brigade: the first shot struck
an officer of the horse-artillery on the side of his
helmet, and displaced him from his horse; after a
short time the brigade went to the right about, to
get out of range. At that moment the Spaniards36
attached to us simultaneously started from the
left of each regiment, and I do not recollect ever
seeing them afterwards: it was most ludicrous to
witness the flight of these patriots, in disorder,
while our troops retired sloping their arms with
the utmost sang-froid. We soon halted, and
faced about; the enemy's guns ceased to play, and178
a large force of our light dragoons mounted the
hill in our rear, with sloped swords. Night
coming on, we formed columns in case of accidents.
An officer and myself then stole down the
hill on horseback, in search of water for ourselves
and animals: having passed our advanced posts
some distance, and hearing strange voices, we looked
at each other, and whispered that to go further
would be indiscreet, wherefore, rejoining the column,
we wrapped ourselves in our cloaks, and fell into a
profound slumber, out of which we were awakened
by a great bustle and the trampling of horses.
Word passed to stand to our arms, and the Portuguese
Caçadores fired some shots, but I was so
overcome by drowsiness, that I continued in a
squatting position, rubbing my eyes, too lazy to
move. The confusion was caused by two or three
mules breaking their ropes, and becoming lively;
not unusual amongst such animals.


On the 20th our division concentrated soon
after daylight, and descended into the plain of
Velesa, where we observed our whole army formed
in a dense phalanx, ready to deploy in order of
battle. The French army were not in sight;
however, it was evident they intended to avail
themselves of the high ground; a brigade of our
cavalry had pushed half way up the ridge, to
entice them to show front, and to develope their
movements, as it appeared during the night they179
had moved on a quarter circle, round our extreme
right flank, and were now pushing on, and trying
to cut off our communications. The Duke
of Ragusa would not accept battle as long as he
could gain ground without it, unless we attacked
at a disadvantage, as he seemed to be a perfect
master of the localities of the country.


Our army, under all these circumstances, broke
up, and began to retreat, the different divisions
arranged in such a manner, that, should it become
necessary, by wheeling to the left, they could
show front, and be ready to engage, the more particularly
as both armies were again moving parallel
to each other; and in this order they continued
some leagues, and bivouacked. It became necessary
for the troops to cook with fires of stubble,
as there was not any wood in the neighbourhood.
A brigade of Portuguese cavalry happened to be
left at some distance in the rear, and, as it slowly
retired in line, presented such an imposing front
to their own rear, that, by mistake, an artillery
officer ordered them to be saluted by a couple
of shot, which unfortunately did some execution.


On the 21st, two hours before daylight, we
began our march, branching off towards Salamanca,
and took up our ground in the valley,
below St. Christoval, the enemy having moved on
Alba de Tormes and its vicinity. Toward evening,
we fell in, and crossed the Tormes by a ford,180
under the hill of Cabrerizos, and marched in the
direction of Salamanca, the river being on our
right hand. Night approached, and a German
hussar passed us at full speed, and said, "She's
co-ming," meaning the French dragoons, who
had pushed forward to the village of Calbarasa
de Abaxo.


The atmosphere became now overspread with an
unusual darkness; the thunder began to roll, the
lightning was vivid, and the rain fell in torrents.
During the storm a whole troop of horses galloped
past at full speed, without their riders, having
broke loose from fright, caused by the loud claps
of thunder. Continuing our march, we soon
bivouacked about two miles from Salamanca, our
left wing resting on the Tormes, and in vain attempted
to screen ourselves from the pelting of
the storm. However, the morning of the 22d
broke beautiful and serene; and at six o'clock we
heard to our right, and about two miles to the
front, a brisk fire of small arms, which continued
for an hour, and then died away. The enemy
had attacked the seventh division, in a wood near
the heights of Nuestra Señora de la Pena, to ascertain
whether the Earl of Wellington intended to
give up Salamanca. A young officer was washing
his shirt in the Tormes when the order came to
fall in at eleven o'clock, and was under the necessity
of putting it on wringing wet.


181


The light division advanced, and took up the
ground which the seventh division had occupied
in the morning; the wood extended a short way
to our front. The division was formed in open
column, concealed from a small body of the
enemy, who were stationed in small force half a
mile to our front, with two pieces of cannon, on
some rocks, round the old quinta of Nuestra
Señora de la Pena. From our situation we
formed a corps of reserve, communicating with
the third division placed on the top of the conical
hill of Cabrerizos, on our extreme left, and rather
in advance of us, on the right bank of the Tormes.


We had no sooner piled arms, than I began to
look about me. A Table Mountain, or rather
one of Los dos Arapiles, was a short way to the
right, and a mile to the front, with a very large
mass of troops formed behind it, in contiguous
columns, with one red regiment presenting their
front towards the enemy in line at the top of it.
Large bodies of cavalry, the first, fourth, fifth,
sixth, and seventh divisions of infantry, with a
proportion of artillery, composed the right and
centre of the army in the plain, towards Las
Torres; also a corps of Spanish Patriots. Placed
thus, who could have thought that the General-in-Chief
intended that day to retreat? I never did.
Nor could I see the reason for it: it seemed advisable
to beat the French before El Rey Joseph182
coming from Madrid, and General Chauvel, who,
with a reinforcement of cavalry and horse-artillery,
had crossed the Duoro, near Pollos, should
make their appearance with additional forces.


The arrangement of our troops was inimitable;
years could not have improved it. Our right had
been fairly turned since the 20th; the army were
presenting a new front, so that the first or last,
whichever it may be termed, of military movements
was to be effected, that is for the contending
armies to change places. The French could
not attack our left that day; if they had, the
right of their army must have been either surrounded
or cut to pieces. The third division
would have hung on their flank, the light division
would have engaged them in front, the masses
behind the Table Mountain could have debouched
on either side, while our cavalry, artillery, and
the rest of the army, could have moved forward,
and attacked the left of the French in the plain,
which must have advanced to support such a
movement. The Table Mountain is the mark of
the French marshal's discomfiture. Military men
say the French ought to have taken possession
of it: but was their army up and strong enough
to maintain it? The advance of the enemy at six
o'clock in the morning was not that of their whole
force: I should say, that it was merely a reconnaissance;
half a dozen squadrons of cavalry and183
a division of infantry must not be taken for a
whole army. Nor had the French soldiers wings;
for in justice to them, more could not have been
done by legs. The Duke of Ragusa might have
had his army in hand, and could have placed a
corps of observation where his centre stood; then
towards evening manœuvred with his main body
at a greater distance from our right flank, and
threatened to cut us off from Rodrigo, (and thereby
change positions with us) until nightfall; at
the same time keeping his communications open
with Alba de Tormes, in the event of his not
deeming it advisable to follow up such a movement
the next day. At all events, the French
general would have gained time, which was precious
to him, as reinforcements were on the road
to join him. The fact was, the French marshal
was completely out-generalled: the Table Mountain
puzzled him; and the third division descending
from Cabrerizos at twelve o'clock, and raising
clouds of dust as they passed along the rear of
our army37, caused the Duke of Ragusa to imagine
that we were drawing off, which I am confident
led him to take hasty measures, forgetting that he
had been manœuvring only on blank ground the184
four previous days. The Earl of Wellington saw
his over haste and his error; knowing that to
support such an extension of the left, the enemy
ought to have advanced in force on the village of
the Arapiles, or that they must expose their left to
a flank attack, which they did. On the other hand,
had they advanced towards the Arapiles in the
plain in force, our right and centre would have
become engaged, and the troops concealed behind
the Table Mountain could have debouched, and
hovered on their right flank.


This was the first general action fought on the
Peninsula, where the Earl of Wellington attacked;
which led the French marshal still farther from
his reckoning. The General-in-Chief, of course,
did not wish to fritter away his army in useless
skirmishes, and therefore only waited for a fit
moment to bring it fairly in contact with the
enemy, to finish well when once commenced;
and as the Duke of Ragusa brought himself to
action within the precincts of Salamanca, the advantage
was ours, the wounded soldiers having
speedy assistance, while those of the enemy who
managed to drag themselves far from the field,
endured the most distressing privations. The
French were formed on the heights behind the
village of the Arapiles, with an extensive forest in
their rear.


185


The field of battle generally was composed of
light sand, with a few straggling blades of parched
grass. A very light breeze blew towards the
French, which gave them the benefit of the clouds
of dust and the volumes of smoke arising from the
immense masses in motion, notwithstanding the
heavy rain on the preceding night. Near one
p. m. the third division were passing in rear of
ours. I was strolling about, here and there coming
across a dead or wounded soldier of those
who had fallen in the morning, when a Portuguese
caught my attention. He was resting on his
elbows with his legs extended, suffering indescribable
pain from a wound in his stomach; his face
pale, his lips discoloured, and stifled groans issuing
from his nearly lifeless body, while an almost
tropical sun was shining on his uncovered head.


Soon after the third division had reached its
destination, a column of French descended a hill
en masse on our extreme right, towards the village
of Miranda. Three eighteen-pounders opened on
them, which took full effect, and spoiled their
regularity. The enemy hesitated, while the discharges
of our heavy ordnance were overthrowing
all opposition. They went to the right-about to
get out of range. Our columns, formed behind
the Table Mountain, now debouched in double
time, showing the French Marshal that the long-expected
crisis was at hand. A sharp fire of musketry186
opened on some companies of the seventh
fusileers, supported by the light companies of the
foot guards, as they broke through the village of
the Arapiles at half-past two. The third division
had already brought up their right shoulders, and
were pushing on very successfully, when the
enemy's horse furiously charged the grenadiers and
right of the 5th regiment, while advancing in line,
which they repulsed and continued their movement.
The fire gradually increasing, at half-past
four the armies were well in contact. The musketry
rolled without intermission, only interrupted
by the still louder artillery. The fourth division,
breathless, amidst showers of grape, musketry,
and round-shot, had succeeded in planting their
standards on the crest of the enemy's position;
but at that moment a French division, in close
column, and at a run, with fixed bayonets, forced
them down the hill, whilst others advanced on
their left flank, which was exposed, and carried
the centre of the battle again into the valley; but
our heavy cavalry, in the right centre, were bearing
down all opposition, driving the left of the
enemy before them, and putting them into the
greatest confusion. Major-General Le Marchant
was killed heading this charge. Marshal Beresford38,
Generals Leith, Cole, and Alten, were187
wounded. On the part of the French that fell,
were the Duke of Ragusa, Generals Fercy,
Thomieres, Desgraviers, Bonnet, Clausel, and
Menne, besides their losing numerous prisoners,
standards, and cannon. At six the battle was at
the height—no cessation of musketry, and the
cannon of both armies thundering away as if
there were to be no end of it. The columns of
smoke and dust were rolling up in dense volumes,
so that the atmosphere became dark above the
bloody scene; yet there was not a cloud to be
descried, except those which arose from the battle.
A Spanish peasant was looking on with his arms
folded; I heard him exclaim, "Que grandisimo
mundo!39"


The inhabitants of Salamanca were crowding the
places of public worship, to offer up prayers for the
success of our arms. Apropos, it was Sunday.


At half-past six, a brigade of Portuguese guns
opened on the enemy, in front of our division. At
seven, the Prince of Orange, one of the General-in-Chief's
aides-de-camp rode up, and ordered our
division to move on the left to attack. We moved
towards the Table Mountain, right brigade in188
front, in open column; having passed it, we then
closed to column of quarter distance. The enemy's
skirmishers soon advanced, and opened a brisk
fire. The shades of evening now approached, and
the flashes of cannon and small arms in the centre
and on the heights were still vivid, while the enemy
were making their last struggle for victory. An
English officer of General Pack's brigade passed
us, covered with dust and perspiration; he complained
of the rough usage of the French. They
allowed the Portuguese to approach nearly to the
summit of the point of attack, then charged them,
and used the bayonet without remorse, taking
that part of the field under their especial protection.


The enemy's light infantry increased, and retired
very deliberately; the ascent was gentle.
The first brigade deployed, supported by the
second; the first division was marching in reserve.


Our skirmishers were obliged to give ground to
the obstinacy of the enemy; and nearly ceased
firing. The line marched over them, dead and
alive.


Appearances indicated a severe fight, for we
were near the enemy's reserves. The Earl of
Wellington was within fifty yards of the front,
when the adverse lines commenced firing. The
General-in-Chief ordered us to halt within two189
hundred yards of the enemy. They gave us two
volleys with cheers, while our cavalry galloped
forward to threaten their right flank. At this
time I heard that a musket-ball had perforated the
Earl's cloak, folded in front of his saddle. As we
were about to charge, the enemy disappeared, not
being in sufficient force to withstand the attack.
This advance was beautifully executed.


Night coming on, the firing died away. Thus
ended a battle which bore on the destinies of
Europe, by showing the decline of French power
in Spain, and leaving the British army for the
first time free to pursue their enemy at pleasure.
It lasted six hours.—Our line continued its movement.
A French cavalry picquet fired on us at
ten; the ruse de guerre would not do40. We
continued to advance until midnight; and bivouacked
round a village.


The Duke of Ragusa was carried off the field by
a company of French grenadiers. He had
manœuvred well, from the 19th till the battle,
and had moved round our flank on a half circle.


190


As morning dawned on the 23rd, the light
division advanced, supported by the first division,
and crossing the ford, near Huerta, formed en
masse in a valley, while the heavy German
dragoons ascended the hill, moving on the left
of the enemy. After some time we debouched.
The Germans made a brilliant charge, and broke
the French rear guard, formed on the side of a
hill near La Serna. They suffered much. The
whole of the enemy had not formed square. I
observed five hundred stand of muskets on their
left, lying on the ground in line, as if they had
been piled and knocked down, and the owners
had shifted as well as they could; the muskets
were not grounded to the front, but lying sideways.
The enemy only formed two squares. I
saw a man and horse dead, the rider still in his
saddle. They must have received their mortal
wounds at the same instant.


On mounting the hill, the enemy's army were
in full view, in one great mass. Our horse artillery
threw some shot into them. The troops
soon halted, and the enemy were seen no more.




33 Now Lord Combermere.


34 The company was formed up, and fronting the right flank of
our dragoons. We, therefore, had an admirable view of the
space between the combatants. The soldiers of the company
had made ready, holding their firelocks horizontally, or rather
at the charging position, but to have fired would have been
rather unchivalric, and would probably have destroyed the valiant
French officer, who, though our enemy, was an honour to his
country.


35 Six companies of the second battalion of rifles joined us on
the retreat, just arrived from England.


36 During this campaign only a few Spaniards were attached
to each British regiment in our division.


37 The third division did not pass through Salamanca, when
they descended from the hill of Cabrerizos. They forded the
Tormes, and passed within a mile in rear of us.


38 Now Lord Beresford.


39 He was the only peasant I ever saw in battle, except one
who offered his services at Vittoria, to conduct our division over
an unprotected bridge, when the second shot fired took off the
poor fellow's head.


40 It has been affirmed, that the firing of the French picquet
of dragoons in the forest caused us to go too much to the left.
On the contrary, we were moving directly towards the ford of
Huerta, on the Tormes, as it was supposed that the Spaniards
left in the old castle of Alba de Tormes would prevent the enemy
crossing the bridge at that place. These Spaniards, however,
unknown to the General-in-Chief, had surrendered the day before.








191


CHAPTER X.






Well-performed retreat of the French after the battle of Salamanca—Progress
of the English troops—Description of the
Spanish plains and towns—Custom of the Siesta—Movements
of Joseph Bonaparte—Bivouac at Olmedo, and ball given there
by Lord Wellington—Advance of the British army, and entry
into Valladolid—A swimming adventure—Illness of the author,
and his removal to the town of Cuellar—Timorous conduct of
the Portuguese dragoons—The English army enters Madrid—Incidents
attending the author's further removal as an invalid
to Salamanca—General position of affairs on the Continent—Operations
of Sir R. Hill—Re-capture of Valladolid—Unsuccessful
siege of Burgos—Various movements of the forces.




A great portion of the French army had
marched more than twelve leagues41 in thirty-six
hours, (advancing and retreating from the field of
battle,) and had also been engaged in hard-fighting
six hours out of that time; therefore, until
the night of the 23d, they had hardly made a halt
for any considerable time during two days and a
night, and I think I may venture to assert, that
the rapidity of their movements, before and after192
the action, and their ultimate escape under Gen.
Clausel from the very jaws of destruction, are
equally astonishing.


Early on the morning of the 24th of July, we
passed Pena-Aranda, from whence the inhabitants
sallied out, loaded with bread, wine, and liquors,
and rent the air with their acclamations in praise
of the glorious victory that we had won over the
French; and even the little boys straddled out
their legs and bent forward their heads in derision
of the enemy's soldiers, to represent to us to what
a state of distress and exhaustion they were reduced.
As we passed onwards, numerous objects
of commiseration, lying by the side of the
road, reminded us of the miseries of war in all its
horrors: many of the French soldiers lay dead,
exposed to the scorching rays of the sun, which
had so blistered their faces, and swelled their
bodies, that they scarcely represented human
forms, and looked more like some huge and horrible
monsters, of gigantic dimensions, than any
thing else. It is impossible to convey an adequate
idea of such spectacles, or of the sensations
they must have endured during their last agonies.
These, now inanimate, objects had marched over
sandy plains, without a tree to shelter them,
while suffering from fatigue, sore feet, and want
of water; then crowding into the battle, covered
with dust, and under a scorching sun, they had193
received severe wounds, and were finally dragged,
or carried on rudely-constructed bearers, from
the scene of action, during excruciating torture,
and ultimately left to perish by the side of the
roads, or on stubble land, with their parched
tongues cleaving to the roof of their mouths, and
(to complete their miseries) before breathing their
last sigh, to behold, with glazed and half-closed
eyes, the uplifted hand of a Spanish assassin, armed
with a knife, to put an end to their existence.
These dreadful fates awaited the defeated French
soldiers in Spain; it was impossible to gaze on
the mutilated bodies of these our enemies without
feelings of deep commiseration for our fellow-creatures,
who, a day or two previously, had been
alive like ourselves, and perhaps the admiration of
their comrades.


The vast campos in Leon, the two Castiles, and
other parts of Spain, are apparently interminable
sandy plains, covered with corn or small stumpy
vines. In summer, many of the principal rivers become
very shallow, and numerous tributary streams
are dried up, leaving their winding beds, or indentures,
filled with pebbles. In many parts there is
not a tree, a hedge, or a shrub to mark private or
public boundaries, nor a drop of water to be procured.
The shapeless roads, or beaten tracts, are
ancle-deep in sand, and in some places fifty yards194
wide; at other spots branching off into three or
four paths, which again join at a given point.
During the excessive heat of the day a solemn
silence frequently pervades these immense plains;
and the high steeples of churches, or the venerable
turrets of monasteries of las villas, or pueblos,
alone present a land-mark, and direct the weary
footsteps of the traveller.


The towns are constructed of ancient massive
buildings of stone or dingy brick, (the lower
windows barred with iron,) intermixed with innumerable
churches, convents, and religious
edifices of the most ancient construction.


During the middle of the day all shops are closed
by a pair of unwieldy doors, and the inhabitants
enjoy their middle sleep or siesta. At this hour
the streets may be traversed without meeting a
single person, and the great monastic edifices
stand in solemn grandeur as monuments of that
superstition exercised by the monks at the time
of their foundation in the darker ages. As soon
as the scorching heat has somewhat subsided,
the doors are thrown open, and towards evening
the streets are thronged by merry dancers and
songstresses; the tinkling of the guitar is heard
from the casements, balconies, and verandas; the
servant maids go chatting and laughing to the
fountains; the muleteers lead their animals to195
water; the peasant girls bring in cans of goat's
milk, and the shopkeepers sit at their portals
without coats, having their shirt sleeves tucked
up, and smoking cigars.


On the 25th we made a halt to enable the
stragglers and stores of the army to come up.
On the same day El Rey Joseph had arrived at
Blasko Sancho, near Arevalo, with a reinforcement,
principally composed of Spaniards, for the
purpose of joining the Duke of Ragusa; but on
gaining intelligence of the defeat his troops had
sustained at Salamanca, he countermarched in the
evening towards his capital, leaving a picquet of
cavalry behind at Blasko Sancho, who were all
taken prisoners, while carousing in a wine-house,
by a corporal's party of the 14th light horse.
About this time General Sir R. Hill had moved
with the second division on Zafra, in Estremadura,
to observe a French force in that quarter.


On the 28th our division bivouacked round the
ancient town of Olmedo, where the Earl of Wellington
gave a ball, with a general invite to all
those officers who liked to attend. The Alcalde
selected the different ladies as usual, whose merry
hearts and supple forms were always ready for the
dance.


The following morning, an hour before daylight,
we advanced, and it was a droll sight to see196
the officers sleeping as they rode along after the
fatigues of the previous night, still dressed in their
ball attire, such as crimson, light blue, or white
trowsers, richly embroidered with gold or silver,
velvet and silk waistcoats of all colours, decorated
in a similar manner: dandies ready alike
for the dance and the fight; most of them had
received a wound, and others more, nor can I
call to mind one of the officers present at this
time, including the senior officer, who had reached
twenty-five years of age. Owing to the heat
of the weather, it was the fashion of the times
to wear the jacket open, which was the only particle
of dress left to denote to what nation we
belonged; as to any other uniformity for the
officers, it was quite out of the question: the fantastical
dresses of those days would have confounded
the most ancient or modern disciplinarians.—The
enemy still continued their flight
across the Douro through Valladolid, which city
the Marquis of Wellington entered on the 30th, at
the head of a large body of horse. The country
on the banks of the Douro is remarkably sandy,
and highly cultivated with vines; we forded to
the left bank of the river on that day within two
leagues of Valladolid. While our baggage was
crossing, a batman and pony got out of their
depth, and were carried down the stream a considerable197
distance; and so determined was the
soldier to hold on, that he disdained, at the risk
of his life, to quit his charge, and continued
swimming until a rope was thrown to him,
by the assistance of which he conveyed the little
animal and his master's portmanteaus safe on
shore.


We had no sooner heard of the large town in
the vicinity, than we began to prepare for the
visit; however, it struck me that it would be very
refreshing to enjoy a swim first, and also wishing
my horse to participate in the luxury, I stripped
myself and mounted its back, and together we
plunged into the stream; but, as ill luck would
have it, for a moment, the provoking animal hardly
made any exertion, so down he went, and thinking
there was no time to be lost, I sprang from
his back; but owing to his plunging I received a
slanting kick on my chest, such as most probably
would have proved fatal, had the full weight of
the blow struck me direct. The animal, however,
soon recovered itself, and swimming with the current,
it was with considerable difficulty I succeeded
in getting it on shore.


Valladolid is a fine old city, (with a spacious
square,) the inhabitants of which were glad to see
us, but evinced none of those rapturous and warm
expressions of delight displayed by those of Salamanca.


198


The next morning we crossed the river, and
branched off in the direction of Madrid. Having
halted a day or two, we again became in motion,
and struck on an excellent road, leading to the
capital. Many exclaimed, "Is this the road to
Madrid? are we really going to the capital of
Spain, the centre of romance"? My mind was
filled with all sorts of illusions, and various anticipations
of pleasure; my rest was disturbed,
and my dreams were of Madrid; every day's
march was counted, every object brought something
new, and I made up my mind to dance
every night when I should arrive. Continuing our
route, we had reached within two days' march of
the city of Segovia, in the kingdom of old Castile,
and occupied a pine wood. On seeing an officer
pass, who was likely to give me every information
relative to the movements of the army, I
issued from my small Portuguese tent, and entered
into conversation with him, which lasted a
considerable time. Being without my cap, I
felt the top of my head extremely hot from the
rays of the sun, and was about to withdraw
several times for a covering, which unluckily I
failed to do. When the dinner-hour arrived, composed
of rice and boiled beef, (without any bread
or biscuit,) my appetite failed, and I laid me down,
in hopes that a few hours' sleep would restore me.
At daylight, the following morning, we were199
again en route, and had just cleared the sandy
wood, enveloped in dust, when a sudden giddiness
seized me, and I fell from my horse. On
recovering my senses, I found myself supported
by an officer. There was no water to be procured,
and, on overtaking the division, I was
advised to ride gently on to avoid the dust.


For the first time in Spain, I observed a
Spanish grandee travelling in a carriage drawn
by eight mules, escorted by fourteen servants,
clothed in long yellow coats, with cocked hats,
and all regularly armed, like horse soldiers. The
costume of the peasantry now became somewhat
different; one of that class was walking
by my side, with a sort of spiral cloth cap,
and clad in dark brown, who asked me if I did
not admire a little girl passing on the road, whom
he called a Wappa Chica; she wore also a stiff
spiral cap of cloth, perched on the top of her
head, with round balls of different colours up
each side of it: her hair was plaited on each side
of her head, ending in a huge pig-tail, about eight
inches long, and precisely similar to those worn
by British sailors; the jacket was brown, laced
up the front; a yellow petticoat, reaching just below
the knee, blue stockings, red clocks, shoes,
and silver buckles. Having travelled some leagues,200
I came to a village, where I observed one of the
commissaries of our division standing at the door
of a cottage, who remarked that I looked very ill,
and asked me where I was going. I told him
"about half a league farther on, when I intended
to lie down under a tree until the troops came up,
as I concluded they would not proceed much
farther that day." He politely begged that I would
partake of breakfast with him, as it was already
prepared, which offer I thankfully accepted. My
fever continued rapidly to increase, so that I
could scarcely sit upright, and I soon began to
talk very incoherently, which induced him to put
me to bed; the division shortly afterwards filed
through the village, and bivouacked half a league
in advance. In the evening, the two other officers
of the company with whom I messed, paid me a
visit, and said, "Why, what is the matter?"
when I replied, "That the commissary had used
me very cruelly, and had been smothering me in
blankets, to prevent my going on to Madrid."
The assistant-surgeon having felt my pulse, asked
whether I would permit him to throw some
water on my head? which I readily assented to,
entreating him to do any thing to make well.
Then, being lifted out of bed, and divested of my
linen garment, I was placed in a chair, while the201
doctor, standing on a table, emptied two pitchers
of spring water on my crown; which produced a
most painful sensation.


The following morning my companions assured
me that I could not be permitted to proceed; but
that, as there was a station to be established at
the town of Cuellar, it would be necessary that I
should go thither, when they felt no doubt that
I should speedily recover, so as to be enabled
soon to rejoin them. A car was accordingly procured,
drawn by two fine mules, with a blanket
extended over the top as an awning.


At the expiration of two days' journey, I
reached the entrance of Cuellar, when a soldier
came forward, and intimated that no sick could
enter the town until the commandant's permission
was obtained; and we were actually detained
nearly two hours roasting in the mid-day sun,
before a free passage was granted us. Much exhausted,
and half suffocated, I at length obtained
a most excellent billet in a gentleman's house,
where I received the greatest attention from an
assistant-surgeon belonging to one of the regiments
quartered there; being unable to quit my
bed.


At this time the army had possessed itself of
the passes of Segovia and the Guadarama, and
had moved forward on the 11th of August towards202
Madrid, having, in the course of their march,
forced the enemy's advanced guard of cavalry
to retire; but in the afternoon these again advanced
from Malajahonda towards Rosas, to reconnoitre
the Portuguese dragoons, who were
drawn up on a rising ground above the latter
village, and made a show of charging, but when
they had arrived sufficiently near to observe the
hardened-looking visages of the sturdy French
heavy horse, who displayed their long shining
weapons, with brass hilts, like the Highland
broadsword, with the exception of being one-third
longer—at such a sight these our allies simultaneously
wheeled about, and scampered off as fast as
their Portuguese horses could trot and gallop, followed
by their unmerciful pursuers, stabbing and
hacking them down, and riding past three pieces
of horse artillery that had been overturned. The
heavy dragoons of the King's German Legion
took to horse as speedily as possible, amidst the
confusion, and, after a good deal of savage sabring,
the enemy retired, leaving at night the captured
guns behind them. El Rey Joseph had retired
with his followers behind the Tagus, and the following
day our army entered Madrid, where the
French had injudiciously left a garrison in the
Buen Retiro, who surrendered themselves prisoners
of war, just as part of the third division, and203
some other detachments, were about to escalade
the works. A vast quantity of stores, powder,
and ball, fell into our hands, besides one hundred
and ninety pieces of cannon, principally dismounted.


About the 20th of August, a detachment of our
regiment, from England, passed through Cuellar,
but, as they had experienced a long march during
the hot months, an enormous number of them
died, and the sick continued to increase from the
army in such a ratio, that most of us were
ordered to proceed to Salamanca. Accordingly, on
the sixth day after my arrival, I was placed in a
car, drawn by bullocks, to begin another tedious
journey. The sixth division was on parade, having
been left at that station as a corps of observation,
and to protect the sick and the stores of the army.


That night I travelled a short way, and was
billeted on a very clean house, where the patron
was most anxious to have all the particulars of
the late battle recounted to him; however, finding
that I was not a sufficient master of the Spanish
language to satisfy his curiosity, he was determined
to make up for it by entering into the history
of his own country. It was in vain that I
exerted all my patience, and requested he would
have the goodness to leave the room, pleading my
indisposition in excuse for my apparent rudeness.204
Having maintained silence for a few minutes, he
offered me every thing in his house, inquired if I
was better, and recommenced his volubility to
such a degree, that I almost became distracted,
and was under the painful necessity of calling
in my servant, who, in half fun and half earnest,
turned him out of the room by the shoulders.


The next day I reached Arevalo, where the
market was filled with fresh vegetables, a sight
only to be appreciated by those who have travelled
over a dry country, devoid of vegetation. A
smiling muchacha, who sat by the side of a well-made
young Spaniard, jumped up, and handed me
a large bunch of grapes, with a dignified air of
affability and frankness, so peculiar to the lower
orders of that country. I obtained a billet on a
very handsome house, situated in a luxuriant
garden; and, on being supported out of the car,
I was so weak that I fell down, and continued in
fainting fits for some time, my servant all the
while sousing me with water in imitation of the
Doctor. The fascinating Señorita of the house,
about seventeen years of age, very kindly administered
every attention; and at night, with
a small lamp, remained in a recess, in readiness
to offer me liquids, for which I continually
inquired. My recollection did not entirely forsake
me, but my head was in a bad state, so that205
I fancied I saw groups of monkeys grinning at
the foot of my bed; and, as I was unable to endure
the slender rays of the lamp, I begged of the
young lady to retire. At such a request her
countenance pourtrayed every mark of disappointment:
whether she considered me as one of the
deliverers of her country, or whether so young a
girl, residing in so sequestered a spot, fancied me
under her especial protection, I know not; but
I do know that her amiable solicitude and her
lovely eyes made such an impression, that she
continued the mistress of my thoughts, and heroine
of my fancy, for a long period afterwards.


Taking my farewell on the following morning,
and apologizing to the little Señorita for my want
of gallantry, I proceeded on my journey, and at
the end of four hours reached the middle of an
extensive plain, when one of the bullocks became
dead lame, and the enraged driver declared vehemently
that he would go no farther; my servant,
therefore, dismounted from my palfrey, and placed
me on its back. We made for the distant steeple,
which skirted the horizon, as the point of our
destination. At the expiration of a toilsome ride,
we reached the Pueblo, and there sojourned until
the next morning. In two more days we reached
Alba de Tormes; I was quartered at an apothecary's
shop, where I lay on the mattress for206
twelve hours in a sort of stupor; on recovering,
in some degree, my servant fancied that I was
dying, and proposed sending for the Spaniard,
which I would by no means consent to, from
the apprehension that he would bleed me to
death.


The next day, while quietly passing through a
wood, at a lonely spot, my horse made a sudden
start, and, on looking to the right, I observed a
dead man, perfectly naked, placed against a large
piece of rock. He had been killed at the battle of
Salamanca. His hair was long and grey; his
beard had grown to a considerable length; and his
arms and legs had been placed in an extended
position; in fact, he was in an exact fencing
attitude, in an extraordinary state of preservation,
and presenting, of course, a dreadful spectacle.


I noticed during the period that I was in Spain,
that those soldiers killed in action, who were exposed
to the rays of the sun, immediately became
a mass of corruption, but of those, on the contrary,
who fell under trees or in shady places, exposed to
heavy dew or rain, the skin became as hard as
leather, and they would remain in that state for a
very considerable period, unless they were devoured
by wild animals or birds of prey. I have
often seen vultures feeding on dead horses (that
had been killed in battle) so fat, that they could207
scarcely take wing, or raise themselves from the
ground.


On reaching Salamanca, I obtained a billet,
on presenting which, I was treated with the
greatest insolence by the man of the house, who
declared that I might enter, but that he had no
accommodation for my servant; under these circumstances,
I was under the necessity of sitting
down in the street, until the soldier went to seek
elsewhere for better success. After some farther
delay, he procured me another on a public notary,
where I was civilly received; but in the middle of
the day my patron, smelling of tobacco and garlic,
came in to take a siesta, in one of the two beds
in a large recess. I asked him if he intended to
sleep there; he replied "Si, Señor." To such an
arrangement I objected; but he would not give up
the point; a struggle then ensued between us,
which lasted some minutes, although eventually I
made him surrender. He was merely a diminutive
old man; but I had become weak from the
effects of my fever; and the scene was so amusing,
that his own son, with a smiling countenance, was
quietly looking on.


A hospital mate being put in requisition, the
first dose administered to me was an emetic,
and whenever I complained, the same dose was
repeated; therefore, whenever he visited me, I
invariably declared that I was better.


208


Our army had now occupied the heart of Spain,
and the enemy, with rapid strides, were endeavouring
to concentrate in the distant provinces
round our centre, blowing up magazines, and
eating up all before them, like a swarm of locusts.
Napoleon was at this period traversing the wilds
of Russia with his grand army, and his magnificent
and highly-appointed Imperial guard. The
banners of Austria, Prussia, Italy, and the Germanic
States, were marching under his control.
The north and south of Europe were in a blaze,
and had become the extreme points of contest,
which were ultimately to decide this mighty struggle
for supremacy. The victory of Salamanca
had shaken the combinations of the enemy in all
parts of Spain, and put the whole of them in
motion. On the 25th of August they destroyed
their works before Cadiz, leaving behind them
stores, heavy artillery, and mortars, many of the
latter having been cast at Seville, by the order of
the Duke of Dalmatia, for the purpose of throwing
shells into the town of Cadiz.42 Some Spaniards
and British immediately advanced from the lines,
and took forcible possession of Seville.


On the 29th of August, Sir R. Hill, with the
second division, entered Illerena, and pushed on209
to Ayllones, on the borders of Estremadura; but,
finding the French were retrograding on Cordova
and Granada, for the purpose of communicating
with Joseph, who, in like manner, was forming a
junction with the Duke of Albufera, intending to
make Valencia the centre and the base of his
future operations against Madrid; Sir R. Hill,
thereupon, by a flank movement, marched towards
the city of Medellin, on the left bank of the Guadiana,
so as to be in readiness to act wherever his
presence might be required, or to open his line
with the third, fourth, and light divisions, cantoned
in the vicinity of Madrid.


The General-in-Chief no sooner saw a probability
of his right flank being cleared of the enemy,
than he set off from Madrid, and concentrated the
first, fifth, sixth, and seventh divisions round
Arevalo, (early in September,) with a force of
cavalry and artillery, passed the Douro, and retook
Valladolid, which had been re-occupied by
the enemy for a short time. On the 19th he
crossed the river Arlanzon, and laid siege to the
old castle of Burgos, bristled with cannon and the
bayonets of its hardy defenders. Various attempts
by escalade, mining, explosions, and breaching
were tried for a month without success, owing to
the want of a sufficiency of battering artillery, and
to the obstinate defence made by the enemy, who210
firmly lined the walls, and threw their balls and
bullets with deadly aim against the assailants.
The enemy's vanguard was at Briviesca, and his
main body behind the river Ebro, during the
greater part of the siege.


In the mean time the second division had moved,
in the middle of September, across the river Guadiana,
through Truxillo Jaraceijo, towards Almaraz,
and then crossed the Tagus by a pontoon
bridge, and continuing its movement on the right
of that river, passed Talavera de la Reyna, and
arrived on the 30th at Toledo, occupying both
banks of the river Tagus. General Sir Rowland
Hill pushed forward his advance to Yepes and
its vicinity, taking the command of the right
wing of the army, composed of the second, third,
fourth, and light divisions, besides cavalry and
artillery stationed in the vicinity of Madrid.




41 About forty-eight miles.


42 One of these mortars was brought to England, and is now
placed on the south side of St. James's Park.








211


CHAPTER XI.






The author becomes convalescent, and proceeds to rejoin the
army—Guadarama mountains—Park and palace of the Escurial—An
enthusiastic native—A Spanish bandit—British quarters
in Madrid, and description of the city—English theatricals—Renewed
activity of the contending armies—The British troops
evacuate Madrid—Romantic attachments—Alba de Tormes—Re-occupation
of Salamanca—Military discomforts—Skirmishing
affairs—The French obliged to desist from pursuit
through fatigue—Various positions of the British forces during
the winter of 1812–13.




For my part, I had no sooner contrived to get
out of bed at Salamanca, than I began to pace
up and down the room, and in a very few days
gained sufficient strength to be enabled to inhale
the fresh air in the cool of the evening. While
walking slowly along, I met one of the staff doctors
of our division, who expressed much regret
that he had not been aware of my being sick in
that town, and offered every assistance in his
power; I expressed my thanks, but informed him
that I intended to join my regiment. He asked212
me if I were mad, and insisted on my giving him
a promise not to think of prosecuting so wild a
scheme for the present; which I was necessitated
to acquiesce in, from a fear that he would effectually
stop my rambles: however, two days afterwards,
I presented myself to the medical board,
which sat daily to examine officers: the group of
medicos were seated round a table, and, having
eyed them particularly, I experienced great relief
at finding the worthy doctor did not form one of
the party. I felt considerable agitation, (from a
fear that they would not sanction my departure,)
which gave me a colour; in fact, I reported myself
in perfect health, and obtained permission
to proceed to rejoin the army with a strong detachment,
who were about to depart for that purpose.
At five o'clock next morning, the day
before I was to recommence my journey, my
servant entered my quarter, and announced that
my mule had been stolen, during the night, out
of the stable, and that my horse had been running
about loose, with the door wide open. This unwelcome
intelligence caused me to tremble so
violently, that I sank down on the bed, nor do
I ever recollect being so agitated in my life, for
I had no means left to supply its place, and I
could not have walked in my weak state half a
league. Fortunately an officer, who had just come213
from England to join us, relieved my anxiety,
by offering to carry my baggage on one of his
animals.


At daylight the next morning we started. The
spangled dew still hung on the trees, the morning
breeze refreshed my body and mind, and with
exhilarated spirits I felt as if new life and fresh
vigour had been conveyed throughout my frame.
The dead French soldier was still stationary in
the wood, and in exactly the same position already
described. On re-entering Alba de Tormes,
I passed the apothecary's shop, with exultation,
which only four weeks before I had entered in
such a miserable plight. When we passed through
Arevalo, one of the narrow streets leading to
the Plaza was choked up with cars from the city
of Burgos, crammed to overloading with exhausted,
speechless, and wounded Highlanders,
covered with hot sand, and many of them slumbering
unto death; their pallid countenances portended
the speedy dissolution of their lingering
sufferings, while their sable plumes and torn tartans
hung loosely on the pointed stakes, which
formed the temporary sides of the rude vehicles.
I searched in vain, through every narrow avenue,
and amongst the numerous convents and monasteries,
for the house of the young lady who had
been so attentive to me in that town. I well214
recollected the high walls of one of those fabrics
inclosing one side of the garden; I was, therefore,
in hopes that in some spot of difficult access,
I should find the fair object of my solicitude.
The whole of the following day (during our halt)
was passed, however, in fruitless search.


Continuing the march, our little column consisted
of three hundred and fifty men, and when
within sight of the distant villages, which were
surrounded by extensive plains, the church bells
rang merry peals. Almost the whole of these
places had been entrenched by temporary works,
and the churches loopholed by the French posts
of communication, to protect their small detachments
from being destroyed or cut off by the
guerillas, or surprised by the infuriated peasantry.
Shortly before we reached the Guadarama mountains,
we struck into the high road to Madrid;
for many miles there was scarcely a house to be
seen. At length we came to a venta, on the
right of the road, but the house had been thoroughly
gutted, and it was impossible for the
owners of it to procure any thing for us to eat.
The country bore a very solitary aspect until we
began to ascend the pass by a paved road, cut in
a zigzag direction up the face of the mountain,
on the top of which stands a marble fountain.
The prospect from this point is very grand, commanding215
a distant view of Madrid, of the palace of
the Escurial, and of the rugged mountains extending
towards Segovia, which are covered with
snow during the greater portion of the year. The
poor village of the Guadarama is situated in a
valley at the foot of the grand pass, in the kingdom
of new Castile.


Towards evening, our horses being in some
degree refreshed, we rode into the park of the
Escurial, which is of considerable extent, and
lies adjacent to the village, producing pretty
good pasturage, but infested by prowling wolves
and wild boars. The trees are generally of small
growth, consisting of oak, carob, ash, and cork.
The front of the palace of the Escurial looks
towards the mountains of the Guadarama, and is
built of a grey granite, in the shape of a gridiron.
This culinary utensil is represented in the books
of mass, on the doors, and in various parts of the
building, which is perforated by innumerable windows.
The pantheon of the palace is octagon, composed
of marble; about fourteen niches are occupied
by embalmed kings and queens; and there are a
variety of other curiosities worthy the observation
of the traveller. Returning towards the village,
the old man of the house assured us the effect of the
extraordinary edifice we had explored was nothing216
to the wonder and astonishment we should experience
at the grand bull fights of Spain. The tears
rolled down his furrowed cheeks as he ran about
the room, (which was paved with red tiles,) representing
the wild Andalusian bull staring with
surprise on first entering the arena; and then,
getting astride of a chair, showed us how the Picador
received the bellowing bull on his lance, and
the way he was frequently tossed, mangled, and
killed, by the infuriated animal. Then again, he
skipped and danced about the room to represent
the men insinuating the pointed darts and crackers
into the animal's neck; and finally gave us the
graceful Matador, with a red cloak slung over one
arm, and a short sword in his hand, making his
obeisance with a profound bend to the señoras
and caballeros, who excite him by countless
vivas, and the waving of the white hands, and
whiter pocket-handkerchiefs, to dispatch the staggering
bull at one thrust. At length the ancient
caballero became so much exhausted by his exertions
and feelings, that he fell back motionless in
his chair, exclaiming, "Oh, los ladrones Franceses!
they have eaten up all our Andalusian bulls,
killed our poultry, corrupted all our mozas, and
knocked all our Santa Marias from the altars,
and out of their sacred niches by the road side."


217


During this rhodomontade we remained quiet
spectators, quaffing the excellent wine which our
host had extracted from a concealed deposit.


Taking our departure the next morning, two
of us being some short distance behind the detachment,
at a very lonely spot, we observed a
Spaniard of most ferocious aspect, with huge
mustachios, a capacious sombrero, and clad in a
leathern jacket, like a cuirass, with a short broad
sword by his side, and a brace of pistols in his
broad belt, which was buckled round his waist.
We were instantly convinced that he was a robber
on the look out, in the capacity of a spy, for his
hidden camarados; however, saluting him as we
passed, which he returned by a cold and distant
bend of the head, the few baggage animals being in
sight, we thought it necessary to warn the soldiers
in charge to be on their guard, although, generally
speaking, the British might pass all over the country
without danger; yet some robberies had been
committed in Spain and Portugal also by banditti.


This day we halted at the village of Rosas,
about two leagues from the capital. The country
is bare and hilly, and even when within half a
mile of Madrid, the traveller might fancy himself
in a bare wilderness, as the town stands isolated
in the midst of a rugged plain, skirted on the north
side by distant mountains, and there is not the218
least sign of traffic, with the exception of a few
mules or asses loaded with chopped straw, the
usual forage (instead of hay) given to animals; all
other vegetation being parched up, and even the
shallow river of the Manzanares having at that
time ceased to flow.


After the short absence of seven weeks, having
travelled, as already described, more than two
hundred and thirty miles, and nearly recovered
from the effects of my fever, I rejoined our first
brigade quartered in Madrid, as well as the third
division; the second brigade was stationed two
leagues from the town, in support of those troops
cantoned in the line of the Tagus. Here I received
the welcome information, that since I had
quitted the division they had not seen the enemy.
The troops were quartered in the various convents
and monasteries, and the officers were billeted
on the most splendid houses; many of these
had white papers stuck on the windows, to denote
that the former occupiers of them had followed
the fortunes and court of El Rey Joseph, thereby
deserting their country's cause.


One of my friends, whom I had left under a
tree, I found occupying the house of a marquis,
and decorating and perfuming himself before a
splendid toilette, previously to making his bow to
the beautiful and attractive object of all his desires,219
who had invited him to spend that evening at her
house. He described to me their proud entry
into Madrid as a conquering army; then the
variegated drapery hanging from the windows, the
acclamations of the people, and all the beauty of
the place welcoming them, striking guitars, tambourines,
and castanets, with eyes beaming love
and admiration in a manner indescribable, known
and felt only by those who have won the battle,
after having been wandering under the heaven's
bright blue canopy for sixty days, and traversing
hundreds of miles over burning plains. Another
officer reposed his limbs on a bed of down, (enveloped
by white satin curtains edged with long
gold bullion,) encompassed by mirrors, the whole
surmounted by a gilded helmet, adorned with a
noble plume of ostrich feathers. The rest of the
furniture in this superb mansion was composed of
the most costly materials.


Madrid is a compact town; the lower windows
of all the monasteries and houses are defended by
iron bars; many of the streets are spacious, and
the whole of them are remarkably clean. The
Plaza Major is a square of lofty houses, many of
them stained of various colours; the windows are
very close together, out of which hang mats and
drapery of a variety of striped patterns, to shade220
the rooms from the mid-day sun. Here is the
principal market for vegetables and other commodities,
and it invariably presents a bustling and
busy scene. The Royal Palace is of a square
form, and surrounds an interior court-yard, which
has two gateways. The grand staircase rises out
of the court-yard near the principal entrance; it
is a most splendid work, wide and lofty, leading
into the principal suite of rooms, magnificently
furnished. As we passed through them, I noticed
the man in charge locking the doors after us:
when, therefore, the curiosity of the admiring
spectators was satisfied, we were ushered into
another, and again made prisoners for the time
being. A picture, beautifully executed, represented
Napoleon in his younger days crossing the
Alps, at the head of his bare-footed army, and
was considered, by those who had seen him, to
be an exact likeness; the face was extremely
handsome. The Callé Major and Alcala are the
principal streets of the town; the latter is wide
and spacious, lined by large buildings, leading
direct into the Prádo, which is much admired
for its broad walks, divided into avenues by rows
of trees, and running the whole length of one side
of the town, being terminated at each end by gates
leading from it. On the north side stands the
Buén Retiro, encompassed by temporary works,221
(which had been thrown up by the French,) gardens,
and pleasure grounds.


The fountains stand at certain distances from
each other in the middle of the walks, and are
framed after antique models. The water from
one of them is esteemed the best in the town;
the broad walk in the centre is adorned by these
cascades, and is crowded every evening by the
best company. It is here the stranger may examine,
with advantage, the costume, style, and
gait of the Spanish ladies. Their dress is composed
of a mantilla or veil, gracefully thrown over
the head, a long-waisted satin body, black silk
petticoats, fringed from the knee downwards,
white silk stockings, with open clocks, kid shoes,
of white or black; they carry a large fan in their
little hands, which they open and shut as they
glide along; it serves to shade them from the sun,
or to salute their different acquaintances as they
pass, which they do by shaking the fan rapidly,
and simpering an affable smile.


At sunset the bells of the convents and churches
give notice for offering up the evening prayer to
the Virgin; instantaneously the crowd becomes
stationary, the Caballeros take off their hats and
remove the cigars from their mouths, the Señoras
cover their faces with their fans, while they inwardly
mutter a short prayer. At the expiration222
of a few minutes, the profound silence is broken,
when all again are in motion. In this place, dedicated
to pleasure, our time was so divided as to
be occupied night and day, either in dancing or
at the tertúlias; public balls were also held twice
a week at the Callé de Baños and el Principe.


The officers of our division were anxious to
display their powers as actors to their beloved
señoritas; therefore, among other things, they
were occupied in ordering dresses, and studying
their theatrical parts. "The Revenge" was fixed
upon as the tragedy to astonish the Spaniards.
Capt. Kent, of the rifle corps, played the part of
Zanga, in El Teátro del Principe, with due solemnity,
and the piece went off in silence, until
he began to move backwards and forwards, like the
pendulum of a clock, his sinewy arm and clenched
fist, cased in a black silk stocking, or glove,
encircled by a shining bracelet—which caused
the muleteers in the gallery to roar with laughter.
The señoras tittered, and held their fans to their
faces. During the remainder of the evening poor
Zanga was treated more like a comic than a
tragic character, and whenever he raised his arm,
which he had frequent occasion to do, the same
round of salutations greeted him on all sides,
such as "Arré Múlo," &c. &c. At the conclusion
of the piece, a Spaniard and a girl danced223
a bolero, in inimitable style: both of them were
habited in male attire; the black hair of the
female was clubbed up behind, and tied with a
bunch of ribbons hanging down her back; she
wore a richly embroidered silk jacket, white kerseymere
breeches, fitting tight to the shape, white
silk stockings, shoes, and buckles. She rattled
the castanets exquisitely, and beat admirable time
with her pretty little feet.


On the 21st of October our division was hastily
concentrated, and first moved to some lonely villages,
and then to Alcala de Henarez, one of the
principal universities of Spain. On the night of
the 21st the Marquis of Wellington raised the
siege of the castle of Burgos, and slowly retired
on the Douro, followed by Gen. Souham. Joseph
and the Duke of Dalmatia had also formed a
junction, and were making various demonstrations
on the line of the Tagus. On the 22nd, the
second division was put in motion on that river
to observe the enemy's movements. On the 24th,
the third division, which had continued in Madrid,
moved towards Pinto, on the road to Aranjuez,
in support of the fourth and second divisions.
On the 26th, the second division crossed
to the right bank of the Tagus, and extended its
left on the Jarama. On the same day we marched
four leagues and a half from Alcala, and entered224
Arganda, which is situated on the high road
from Valencia. The enemy continued to make
such a variety of movements, that it was impossible
to ascertain positively whether he would
attempt his grand push on the south or east side
of Madrid, which obliged General Hill to show
front on two sides of a square, for the protection
of the great roads leading towards the capital,
across the rivers Tagus, Jarama, and Henarez.


At ten o'clock at night (of the same day we
had entered Arganda,) the bugle-horns sounded
the assembly, which never occurred without the
most urgent necessity, as it was not customary
for the horns to sound when manœuvring near the
enemy, except under peculiar circumstances. The
orderlies usually passed round, and gave the word
to pack up and accoutre, no farther questions
being asked either by officers or soldiers, and all
repaired to the alarm post, and patiently awaited
farther orders; and that so often without seeing
an enemy, owing to the variety of marches and
countermarches in war, that such orders had
ceased to be a novelty or any surprise to us. The
division soon fell in: I had to precede the column
on duty with another officer, who was mounted
on a sorry lank pony, which, on being touched
on the near or off side, kicked out with one leg
at every mule that passed him, in the most singular225
manner. I never recollect laughing more
heartily; the muleteers cursed and swore, and
particularly one who received a severe kick on
the leg.


This class of men wear a large hat, or a pocket-handkerchief
of various colours, tied tight round
the head, with the corner hanging down their
backs, and a sort of red Moorish sash round the
loins, dark blue, or green velveteen breeches,
open at the knee, and leather gaiters, (with innumerable
buttons up the sides,) open in the middle,
so as to show the calf of the leg to advantage.
The mules are very gaily caparisoned, with bells
at the head, and the backs closely shaved; the
tails tied up in bunch, with red or other coloured
worsted binding; and when they are loaded,
the men sit on the top astride, singing boisterously.
They usually bivouac in the woods, when
the day's journey is finished, cover themselves
with a tarpauling, and allow their mules to
browse about all night. These muleteers robbed
the English army of hundreds of mules during
the war. I lost two myself, and, during the time
the light division was quartered in Madrid, the
ladrones caused false keys to be made to fit the
stable-doors, and actually, in the middle of the
day, took the animals clear off, which were never
afterwards heard of.


226


At the end of a tedious night march, the division
bivouacked in the morning on a rising ground,
about a mile from Alcala, watching the right
bank of the river Henarez, and the cross-road
leading from Arganda; the enemy, however, did
not make their appearance, and at night we entered
the town. The troops lay on their arms
under the piazzas, which run through nearly all
the principal streets; the inhabitants were so
fearful that we might become engaged in the
streets, that they illuminated the town for three
successive nights.


On the 30th we crossed the Jarama at a bridge
near St. Fernando, which was already mined to
blow up, and continued our retreat on Madrid.
A slight affair also took place more to the right,
at Puente Largo, between the van of the enemy
and our troops, who had formed a junction with
us from Cadiz. The General-in-chief, on the
same day, made a movement to his left towards
Ruêda, on the left of the Douro, causing the
bridges to be destroyed, right and left, on that
river, to guard his flanks, to enable him to keep
open his communication with his right wing at
Madrid, and to cover its rear and left flank while
retrograding from that place, through Arevalo to
Salamanca.


Towards nightfall, as we approached Madrid, a227
slight rain fell, and when within a league of the
town, the whole of the dismounted cannon taken
from the enemy in the Buén Retiro were blown
up with a tremendous explosion, which quite
convinced us that a retreat was decided on. We
hastily traversed, by column of companies, the
long walks of the Prádo, which reverberated with
the tramping of the soldiers' footsteps, and on
passing the last gate of the town without a halt,
we observed the bright fires of a portion of our
army in bivouac on the distant hills, on the road
leading to the Guadarama, which sight completed
the gloomy thoughts of many who had formed attachments,
and had, until this moment, cherished
hopes of once again passing a short time in the
society of the fair objects who had captivated
their hearts in Madrid. We filed to the summit
of the comfortless bleak hills, and as our baggage
did not reach us until two hours before daylight,
we passed a tolerably uncomfortable night.


At nine o'clock in the morning, with gladdened
hearts, we received orders again to advance on
Madrid, but our anticipations were of short duration,
as we merely halted without the walls to
cover the troops who had been marching all night
from the direction of Arganda and Aranjuez.


Many of the ladies came on the walks to take
their last farewell, and just as we were moving228
off, forming the rear guard, in the afternoon of
the 31st, a beautiful girl, lightly clothed, refused
to leave her lover, an English officer in the Portuguese
Caçadores, who dismounted, tied his
silk handkerchief round her neck, and placed her
sideways on his horse. Towards evening the
wind blew keenly, and I saw her enveloped in a
soldier's great-coat. Many females left their
homes in a similar manner with the French
officers, and travelled about with the army, on
horseback, and astride, clad in uniform of the
Polish lancers, or hussars, splendidly embroidered,
with crimson trowsers, made very wide, in
the Cossack fashion. The ladies of Spain frequently
ride astride, with pantaloons and hessian
boots, with a habit buttoning up before and behind,
and, when they are on horseback, it is unfastened
and hangs down on each side, to conceal
their legs from view.


On the 1st of November we bivouacked in the
park of the Escurial, where two wild boars galloped
through the lines, and caused great confusion;
a soldier of the 52d was overturned by one
of them, which bounded over him without doing
any further damage.


During the retreat the enemy did not press us,
nor were our marches unusually long; in fact,
every thing went on so regularly, that several229
days' march passed with merely the usual incidents.
The whole army from Burgos and Madrid
were now in junction, the left marching on the
heights of St. Christoval, to cover Salamanca, and
the right on Alba de Tormes, to take up a line
of defence on the right bank of the Tormes.


On the evening of the 7th, our division reached
within a league and a half of Alba, where it drew
up until temporary defences were constructed, to
resist the enemy at that small town. The country
was perfectly open, without a house or tree to
be seen, and I was contemplating the dreary
prospect, and regretting the loss of my blanket,
placed under the saddle of my horse, which I had
sent to the rear, sick, on the previous morning.
As the night closed on us, the rain began to pour
down in torrents; we were without food, or a
particle of wood to light fires.


Before daybreak we stood to our arms, looking
out for the enemy: what a moment for an engagement,
our clothes completely soaked through!
At about eleven o'clock, the order came to retire,
when we filed through the narrow streets of Alba,
and crossed the bridge, where we found sappers
hard at work, mining, and laying barrels of powder
to blow up the centre arch, if necessary.
The river Tormes had swollen considerably, owing
to the torrents from the mountains: therefore the230
fords became difficult and uncertain. Continuing
our march on the left of the river, we entered
a dripping wood, half-way to Salamanca, when
we found our baggage waiting for us. The division
being dismissed, all the trees were filled with
soldiers, cutting and tearing down huge branches
to build huts.


In a short time great fires blazed up in every
direction, while the soldiers encircled them with
joyful countenances. Having been disencumbered
of our drenched clothes, and rations having been
served out, we set to work making dumplings;
before dark the canteens were laid with smoking
tea, rum, hot puddings, and beef. This was, indeed,
a relishing and luxurious meal. The whole
of the spirits having been exhausted, a heavy
slumber (under a tottering hut) put an end to
our carousal.


The next morning, before daylight, we were
again under arms, and moved towards Salamanca,
to occupy that town with the first division
and some Spaniards. Every morning we assembled
an hour before daybreak, without its walls,
waiting the approach of the enemy. I noticed
the Spanish officers invariably covering their
mouths, before the sun had risen, with their
cloaks, and blowing the smoke of their cigars
through their noses.


231


The Duke of Dalmatia moved slowly and with
great caution, and evidently wishing, if possible,
to force us to retire without coming to blows.
His army had been collected at vast trouble, and
by enormous marching; many of his troops had
marched, within the last three months and a half,
over seven or eight hundred miles of ground.
On the 10th, the enemy made a strong reconnoissance
in front of Alba de Tormes, but, after a
heavy firing of artillery, they drew off at finding
they could make no impression. On the 12th,
some musketry was distinctly heard in the direction
of the position of San Christoval. Our
division had been dismissed as usual early in the
morning, but was again formed, and ordered to
crown those heights, where we remained the
whole day, the alarm having been occasioned by
a few Spanish guerillas firing at the French
cavalry.


On the 14th, we all left Salamanca, and moved
by the left bank of the Tormes, on the road towards
Alba de Tormes, the enemy having crossed
the river by some fords, two leagues above that
town. As soon as this movement was ascertained
by the General-in-chief, he made a reconnoissance
under a fire of cannon, and found the
enemy strongly posted on the left of the Tormes,
at Mozarbes; the second division remained near232
Alba. In the evening our advance fell back, and
the whole army was collected in the neighbourhood
of the Arapiles, and showed front in the
same direction as at the previous battle; it was
supposed during the night by every one, that a
great action would be fought on the following
day. The country was illuminated for miles
around from the quantity of fires, which marked
the line of our bivouac. All hands caroused until
nearly midnight, being fully determined to make
themselves happy previously to the supposed approaching
struggle; then, stretching themselves
under the trees or around the fires, they tranquilly
slept until an hour before daybreak, when
we formed and stood to our arms, and were again
dismissed.


At noon the baggage animals were ordered to
the rear, and soon after we observed great masses
of our army, moving in dense columns from the
right by echelon of divisions towards the great
forest. The enemy had laboured hard to strengthen
Mozarbes, as a point d'appui, under cover
of which they continued to extend their left at a
distance, to outflank our right, and to threaten
our communications with Ciudad Rodrigo. At
about two o'clock in the afternoon, our division
followed the movements of the army. The rain
had begun at mid-day, and now fell in torrents,233
and we passed a miserable night under the trees.
As soon as the road was distinguishable in the
morning, we were again on the march, ankle-deep
in mud, which tore the shoes from off the
soldiers' feet; in this manner we trudged along
the whole day; towards evening we saw the
enemy on our left43 flank, when a little cannonading
took place. One hour after nightfall, we drew
up under the trees, hungry, and in the most
miserable plight; the fires were kindled with difficulty,
and while roasting on one side, we were
shivering and perishing on the other, the rain still
pouring down most unmercifully, as if the very
flood-gates of the heavens had opened on us; for
we were literally flooded.


On the morning of the 17th, not having received
any orders to move, we were in groups
roasting acorns to satisfy the cravings of hunger,
when an officer, who had ridden a short way to
the left, came unexpectedly on the French heavy
horse, who were stealing through the wood, and
would have made a prisoner of him, had it not
been for the speed of his English horse, which
was at full gallop as he passed us, calling out,
"The enemy's cavalry!" "Fall in!" "Join the234
ranks!" The division were only waiting for orders
to move off, and instantly seized their arms and
debouched from the wood, and formed contiguous
columns, with our horse-artillery filling up the
intervals. A few of the enemy's horse, with polished
helmets, and covered with white cloaks,
appeared moving backwards and forwards amongst
the trees, looking at us. Two officers of infantry,
mounted on English horses, went to reconnoitre
them, when the enemy tried to decoy them into
the thicket. A troop of light horse were formed
on our left flank, with sloped swords, but they did
not throw out any skirmishers to feel the enemy
in front. After a short time, the division retired,
and crossed a narrow rivulet, and re-formed. One
company of our regiment was left amongst some
old houses on the margin of the stream, when
some French dragoons slowly came forward to
look at us; one in particular went to our right,
as if he intended to cross the stream, when a German
hussar, (I believe an orderly,) went towards
him, and challenged the Frenchman to single
combat, provided he would cross the water. The
Frenchman laughed, and made a similar proposal
to him, as he approached quite close to the edge
of the water: thereupon the German advanced,
but instead of fighting they entered into a jocular
conversation, and parted very good friends. Our235
division again went to the right about, and moved
off to the rear; fortunately the road continued
very wide, which enabled us to march in column
of quarter distance, with screwed bayonets, and
ready to form squares. The soldiers of the division
bore the wet and privation with unexampled
fortitude; nor did they lose their organization.
At three o'clock in the afternoon, things
began to look black; we heard that all the
baggage had been captured, and that Lieut.-Gen.
Sir E. Paget was taken prisoner; all this having
occurred on the very road which it was absolutely
necessary for us to traverse.


The Marquis of Wellington at this time joined
us, and continued riding on the left flank, and quite
close to our column, for he could not well join
the main body of his army, as the enemy's horse
scoured the road, and all our cavalry had retired.
It was one of the chances of war, and could not
be wondered at in a forest of such an amazing extent,
that the army was three days passing through
it. The French heavy horse continued to accompany
us on each flank amongst the trees, and
frequently spoke to the soldiers in the ranks.
We made two halts, to keep the men fresh, and
in good order to engage, and then resumed a
quick march, but not so rapid as to cause any
soldiers to be left behind. The column preserved236
a profound silence; not a shot was discharged,
for, had we begun to fire, the noise would have
brought from all quarters the enemy, who could
not be aware otherwise of our isolated march.


Just before we reached a break in the forest, at
four o'clock, it was absolutely necessary to detach
a few skirmishers to prevent the audacious
French horse from almost mixing in our ranks.
The enemy's infantry were now coming up, mixed
with their cavalry. Owing to the reverberation
in the wood and dense atmosphere, the report of
each musket sounded as loud as a three-pound
mountain gun. The Marquis of Wellington made
a sweep round the column, to examine for the
best fighting ground, while a lively firing of musketry
took place close on the left, and in rear of
our column, intermixed with the shouting of our
assailants and the whizzing of bullets. As we
emerged from the forest, to our surprise we were
saluted on the left by a number of the enemy's cannon,
posted on a high hill just above San Muñoz.
The division broke into double time across the
plain, about half a mile, and made for the ford of
the river Helebra. The second brigade branched
off to the right to cross elsewhere, to extend a
line of defence behind its banks. The seventh
division was already formed in close columns on
the other side of the river, near San Muñoz, and237
suffering terribly from the effect of the round
shot.


Two squadrons of our heavy dragoons came
forward to protect us over the valley. We had
no sooner reached the river, than we plunged in
up to our middles in water, (under a sharp fire
of artillery,) and we were obliged to scramble up
the steep bank, (having missed the ford,) by which
the troops were thrown into a momentary malformation.
While we were forming up in a hurried
manner behind the horse-artillery, who were
drawn up to protect the ford, the Marquis of
Wellington rode up in front of the left of number
one company, and looked placidly at them, saying,
"The enemy must not cross here." At this
moment a round-shot carried away one of our
officer's legs, and knocked a German hussar from
his horse, leaving his hands hanging by a few
shreds or sinews, notwithstanding which he got
up and walked off, with an agonized countenance,
and his head bent forward, resting on his
breast.


The three companies of our regiment who had
been left in the opposite wood, now issued out
at full speed, pursued by the enemy, and were
obliged to run the gauntlet across the plain, with
the round shot of both armies flying over their
heads. The second brigade, which had already238
formed on our left, were keeping up a sharp fire
of musketry, to oppose the French crossing the
river. A Portuguese regiment was stationary, in
close column, two hundred yards behind us. I
saw three cannon-balls strike in precisely the
same spot, carrying away a number of men each
time. The firing of artillery and musketry continued
until after dark, and then gradually died
away, when the soldiers of the contending armies
approached the river for water, and amicably
chatted to each other in their different languages.


The French infantry wore broad-toed shoes,
studded with nails, wide trowsers of Spanish
brown, a brown hairy knapsack, a broad leather-topped
cap, decorated with a ball, and shining
scales, and fronted by a brazen eagle, with extended
wings. In action they usually appeared in light
grey great coats, decorated with red or green
worsted epaulettes, belts outside, without any
breastplates, with short sleeves, slashed at the
cuff, to enable them to handle their arms, and
prime and load with facility. Their flints were
excellent, but the powder of their cartridges
coarse; that of the British army was remarkably
fine, but their flints were indifferent.


During this day the rain had held up for eight
hours, but after dark it again fell heavily. Beef
was served out, without biscuit; our cooking was239
speedily made, as we toasted it on ramrods.
After another wretched night, about two hours
before daybreak, the soldiers began to clean their
arms, by the light of the fires, to prepare for the
coming morning. Day broke, but the enemy
made no attempt to molest us, and for two tedious
hours we continued without any order to move,
owing to a stream, four hundred yards, behind
us, which had detained the other division some
hours in crossing it. As we moved off, the dead
and the dying lay under the trees, (the trunks of
many of them in flames,) pale and shivering, with
their bloody congealed bandages, imploring us
not to leave them in that horrible situation, in
the middle of the forest in the depth of winter.
However, to attempt to afford them assistance
was impossible. Every individual had enough to
do to drag himself along, after three days' privation.
The stream we had to cross was only a
few yards wide, but so deep that the soldiers
were forced to cross it by single files over a tree,
which had been felled and thrown across; had
the enemy been aware of such an obstacle, we
should have had a terrible struggle at this point;
but the French army had suffered so much during
the pursuit that they could no longer follow, and
became glad of a halt; and we equally glad to
get rid of such disagreeable neighbours. Numerous240
soldiers from the other divisions of the
army, (which retired in three columns,) fell out,
and kept up a heavy firing, right and left, in the
wood at wild pigs, or any other animal they could
see. Many hundreds of these exhausted men
fell into the hands of the enemy, and when they
arrived at Salamanca, El Rey Joseph gave the
English prisoners a pecéta each.


During this day's march the weather was fine,
but the road was overflowed, and up to the men's
knees for many miles. Two hours after dark we
drew up on a bare hill, clear of the forest; the
atmosphere became frosty, but there was scarcely
any wood to be obtained, and we spent another
shivering night (without rations), gazing at the
starry heavens, and counting the dreary hours.


Early on the 19th we moved off. The twentieth
Portuguese regiment, eight hundred strong,
which had come from the south with Col. Skerret,
and had been attached to our division the morning
we left Madrid, could only now muster half
that number of men in the ranks, owing to the
cold and not being accustomed to campaigning;
and they were obliged to fall out of the column of
march to halt for their stragglers. The light
division still continued in wonderfully good order,
and reached Rodrigo on that day, and bivouacked
a mile from the walls of the town, without suffering241
scarcely any loss, except from the enemy's
balls the day they were engaged.


Six divisions of the army entered Portugal for
winter cantonments; the second division crossed
the Sierra de Gata, and took up its quarters in the
vicinity of Coria, in Spanish Estremadura, and
the light division remained near Rodrigo, on the
left bank of the Agueda; the head-quarters of the
first brigade being at Gallegos, and those of the
second brigade at Fuente de Guinaldo.


The Marquis of Wellington established his
head-quarters at Frenada, in Portugal, as usual.
There Señor Fuentes, a good-looking Spaniard,
used to play on the guitar, and sing romances.
One air in particular I well remember hearing him
sing at a dinner party at Gallegos; it was also
sung by the Spanish muchachas in all the puéblos
and hamlets, soon after the Duke of Ragusa's
defeat at Salamanca. The conclusion of each
stanza was as follows:—








Adónde vayas Marmont? Adónde vayas Marmont,


Tan tempráno de a mañana? Si te cogé Vellington;


Ah! Marmont, Marmont, Marmont!










43 On the right as we were retiring, but, when we faced about,
on the left flank, à la militaire.








242


CHAPTER XII.






The light division reviewed by the Commander-in-chief—Reinforcements
from England—The army again in motion—Encampment
of the light division between Rodrigo and Salamanca—The
German hussars—March to Salamanca, the French retreating—Scene
in the Cathedral at Salamanca—Crossing the
Tormes, and progress of the march—Passage of the Esla—Affair
at Toro with the French heavy horse—Concentration of
the whole army, and march through Valencia towards Burgos—An
accommodating priest—Capture of French baggage and
prisoners—Details of the battle of Vittoria.




Early in May, 1813, the light division, commanded
by Major-Gen. Baron C. Alten, formed
line in the plain, near Gallegos, with one regiment
of the German hussars, and a brigade of horse
artillery, for the purpose of passing in review before
the Marquis of Wellington, who appeared on
the ground encircled by a numerous and brilliant
staff.


During the winter we had remained cantoned
by regiments on the Spanish frontier, on the left of
the Agueda, in the different villages, during which243
period we, us well as the whole army, had received
various reinforcements from England, the greater
proportion of whom had continued in their quarters
in Portugal, and near Coria, in Estremadura.
The 10th, 15th, and 18th hussars had recently
landed at Lisbon, and also the household brigade,
consisting of two regiments of Life Guards and
the Royal Horse Guards. Every effort had been
made by the General-in-chief to make the infantry
as effective as possible, and the great depôt
was removed from Belem to Santarem. Previously
to our advance, the great coats belonging
to the soldiers were delivered into store, it being
considered that the blanket was a sufficient covering
for them at night, the more particularly as
tents were served out for the use of the whole
army, in the proportion of three to each company,
to be carried by the mules that had formerly conveyed
the iron camp-kettles for cooking;44 instead244
of which a light tin kettle, between every six
men, was substituted, to be strapped on their
knapsacks, and carried alternately on the march.
Each man was provided with a reasonable supply
of necessaries, including three pairs of shoes, and
an extra pair of soles and heels, in his knapsack.
The daily allowance of rations for soldiers and
officers consisted of one pound of beef, one of
biscuit, and a small allowance of rum or wine;
the former was invariably preferred by the old
soldiers, although frequently much adulterated by
the mischievous capitras.45


The left of the army being already in motion
from the interior of Portugal, the second and light
divisions concentrated on the 20th of May; the
former crossed the Sierra de Gata, near Baños,
the following morning, which brought it in communication245
with our right; our division forded
to the right bank of the Agueda the same day,
and encamped on the skirts of the extensive forest
situated between Rodrigo and Salamanca. The
German hussars rode up, smoking their pipes,
and singing some delightful airs, their half squadrons
at intervals joining in chorus. We had
heard that the hussar brigade was to supersede
these veterans, and to act with our division: the
whole of us left our canvas, and lined the road
to greet our old friends and companions of out-post
duty. The hussars became so much affected
by our cheering, that tears rolled down many of
their bronzed faces. "Oh!" said they, "we are
always glad to see the old lighty division, who
will ever live in our hearts."


On the third day we had arrived near San
Muñoz, and encamped on the river Helebra.
Many of the forest trees were covered with beautiful
blossoms, and the plumaged tribe hopped
from branch to bough, while here and there a
solitary skeleton lay bleached, and reminded us
of those starved, drenched, and wounded victims,
the recollection of whose cries for help still rang
in our ears, as we had marched past them on our
retreat from Burgos and Madrid the previous
winter. Now, how changed the scene! the inmost
recesses of this extensive wood resounded246
with many voices, and a long line of animated
troops continued to thread its mazes and winding
roads. On this day the household brigade of
cavalry came up; their horses' backs were in a
very bad state, owing to the heat of the weather.
In the evening, while sitting at our tent-door,
we observed one of the Germans making up his
fat horse for the night, and afterwards employing
himself in sharpening his sabre with a stone.
"That man," remarked an officer, "seems to be
preparing for single combat."


Early on the 26th we halted on the verge of
the wood, within a short distance of Salamanca;
our cavalry and some guns pushed onwards, and
crossed to the right bank of the Tormes by two
fords above the town, where they found three
thousand French infantry preparing to retrograde.
Our cavalry made a demonstration to charge them,
but the enemy presented so firm a front, and
then retired in such good order, that it was
thought advisable not to attempt to break them,
until a few discharges of artillery should have
shaken the resolution of these veterans: which
that course failed to accomplish. They at length
formed a junction with a part of the French
troops retiring from Alba de Tormes.


Our dragoons were then drawn off, and the
enemy continued to retreat without farther molestation.247
In the afternoon our division moved forward,
and took up their ground in a wood immediately
overlooking the left bank of the Tonnes,
a league below Salamanca.


The next morning, as there had not been any
order for the troops to move, I mounted my horse,
and, in company with some other officers, rode
into Salamanca. The inhabitants expressed their
congratulations on seeing us again, although our
reception was not of that warm character shown
towards us in the preceding summer; and, indeed,
it would have been out of all reason to expect to
find countenances decked with joy, when contending
armies had trampled down and destroyed
their corn over a fertile plain of many leagues in
extent.


On entering the great square, we observed the
principal inhabitants, full-dressed, flocking towards
the cathedral, a very handsome stone structure,
where we alighted, and, following the crowd
through the grand entrance, found a great multitude
waiting the arrival of the Marquis of Wellington,
who soon entered, escorted by a numerous
retinue of Spanish generals and other staff
officers, in a variety of uniforms magnificently
embroidered. I was much struck with the simplicity
of the Marquis of Wellington's attire,
who wore a very light grey pelisse coat, single-breasted,248
without a sash, and a white neck-handkerchief,
with his sword buckled round his waist,
underneath the coat, the hilt merely protruding,
and a cocked-hat under his arm. He stood with
his face towards the altar during the prayer offered
up for the success of our arms in the approaching
struggle, (for during this time the divisions of our
centre were branching off and marching over dusty
plains towards Miranda de Douro, to support the
extreme left, under General Sir T. Graham, which
had crossed to the right bank of the Douro,
east of Lamego, had passed through the defiles of
Tras os Montes, and was marching on the right
of that river through Leon, towards Carvajales
and Tabara, to outflank the enemy;) the deep-toned
organ played some fine pieces during the
ceremony; and at the conclusion, the ladies, by
way of a benediction, dipped their delicate fingers
into a marble basin at the door, and sprinkled
us with holy water.


At daylight on the 28th, we forded the Tormes,
and continued a forward movement along a winding
road, through a rich valley compassing the
base of a hill, on the summit of which stood a
number of videttes belonging to the household
brigade; and although the men and horses looked
gigantic, and bore a fine appearance, still the idea
of out-post duty for the heavy cavalry caused249
much merriment in the ranks. At the expiration
of a long march, we encamped in the vicinity
of Aldea de Figueras, on the high road to Toro,
where we halted four days; the second division,
under General Hill, besides Portuguese and Spanish
auxiliaries, were encamped half a league to
our right, for the purpose of keeping in check
and watching the movements of the enemy stationed
on the right of the Douro, and also at
Polios and Ruêda, situated about two leagues
from Tor-de-Sillas, on the left bank of the river,
where the French still remained in some force,
hovering on our right flank. Under all these circumstances,
it became necessary to be vigilant,
as the left and centre of the army were now
moving to pass the river Esla, under the immediate
orders of the General-in-chief, who had left
Salamanca to join them, and to superintend this
delicate movement in person, which he had caused
to be executed for the purpose of turning the
enemy's right, and to threaten his northern line
of communications.


Owing to this manœuvre, the French army
was thrown on two sides of a square, and only
possessed the chance of extending a line on the
Esla, by throwing their left forward against General
Hill at the moment when he was separated
from the bulk of our army; (thereby making250
Madrid the base of their operations). However,
El Rey Joseph had not concentrated his army,
and showed no inclination to keep open his communication
with that capital; and therefore he
gave up the line of the Esla and the Douro
without a blow.


The passage of the Esla having been effected on
the 31st, without opposition, the Marquis of Wellington
moved on Toro, where he arrived on the
2nd of June, and the hussar brigade fell in with a
strong body of the enemy's heavy horse between
that town and Morales, where they overthrew the
French, after a very vigorous charge, and made
upwards of two hundred prisoners. Our division
on this day made a forced march over a bare
country, halted to cook during the heat of the day,
then resumed its movement, and reached the vicinity
of Toro in the evening, where we encamped
among some luxuriant, well-watered vegetable
gardens on the left bank of the Douro, the sight
of which proved very refreshing after a long,
sultry, and weary march; and it was most gratifying
to observe with what zest and relish the officers
and soldiers devoured the raw cabbages, onions,
and melons.


The next morning our division crossed the fine
stone bridge. The centre arch of it had been
blown up and entirely destroyed. The soldiers,251
therefore, in the first instance, descended by ladders
placed close together, communicating by
planks thrown across to the steps of the opposite
ladders, by which the men again ascended, thereby
surmounting the obstacle with little difficulty,
and then marching through Toro, which is situated
on high ground on the right bank of the river,
and commands a fine prospect for some leagues
over the surrounding country.


The artillery and baggage forded one hundred
yards above the bridge, without difficulty; the
water being only knee-deep at this season of the
year. We encamped half a league from the town.
In the afternoon I walked in to see the prisoners
who had been taken by the English hussars on the
previous day, all of whom bore a very martial
appearance, and many of their countenances were
so covered with hair, that it was difficult to distinguish
their features: one man, in particular,
had a long red beard which reached down to his
middle; he wore a brass helmet, surmounted with
tiger's skin, with a bunch of horse hair hanging
down his back from the casque. One hundred of
these French dragoons, who had not been wounded,
were assembled to march to the rear. Their
officer maintained a profound silence, and looked
angry and highly indignant, with a large stick
over his shoulder, stuck through the middle of a252
four-pound Spanish loaf. The whole of the
captured, raw-boned horses, were huddled together
in a court-yard, and bore evident marks of bad
provender, escort duties, marches, and countermarches;
and nearly the whole of them had the
most horrible sore backs, almost frying in the
sun, while innumerable flies settled on and irritated
the poor animals. A number of English medical
officers were busily employed dressing the wounds
of the French cavalry; some of them were of a
most shocking description, from sabre cuts on their
heads and faces. A Frenchman, of enormous
stature, lay extended with a dreadful thrust from
a pike, which had been inflicted by a cruel
Guerilla, some hours after he had surrendered
himself a prisoner. A medical officer was on his
knees trying to bleed him, and held his wrist,
moving his arm gently, having made an incision
in hopes of causing the blood to flow; but every
effort to save his life was useless; the dying
soldier nodded thanks to the doctor, and soon
after expired.


On the 4th, the whole army being concentrated46,
it moved in three columns, the centre in253
the direction of Palencia. The country was beautifully
diversified, studded with castles of Moorish
architecture, realizing the descriptions given in
the chivalric days of Ferdinand and Isabella. The
sun shone brilliantly, the sky was of heavenly
blue, and clouds of dust marked the line of march
of glittering columns. The joyous peasantry
hailed our approach, and came dancing towards
us, singing and beating time on their small tambourines;
and, when we were passing through the
principal street of Palencia, the nuns, from the
upper windows of a convent, showered down rose-leaves
on our dusty heads, and the inhabitants
declared, by way of compliment, that the Oxford
Blues were nearly as fine as the Spanish royal
horse guards. Our division took up their ground
close to the town, and on the exact spot where
the French had bivouacked the same morning.


Continuing our advance towards Burgos on the
12th, the right of our army made a demonstration
to attack the enemy, who had taken post there,
while our division brought up its left shoulder,254
and hovered, with the hussar-brigade, on their
right flank; the left of our army halted, until the
effect of this movement was ascertained, by which
the enemy were again thrown on two sides of a
square. The day was remarkably cold and cloudy.


Towards morning on the 13th, we heard a great
noise, which we considered distant thunder, but it
was soon known that the enemy had blown up
part of the works of the Castle of Burgos, and had
retreated. The left of our army was now pushed
on in echelon, to turn by a flank movement the
line of the Ebro, while our right and centre hung
on the enemy's rear, ready to engage them in support
of this movement. The country here was
extremely wild and mountainous47.


On the 15th we descended by a narrow pass,
about a league in extent, which had the appearance
of being scarped; the road was extremely rugged,
and, winding suddenly, we found ourselves in the
valley of the Ebro, which extended some distance
to our right. The beauty of the scenery was far
beyond description, and the rocks rose perpendicularly
on every side, without any visible opening
to convey an idea of any outlet. This enchanting255
valley is studded with picturesque hamlets, orchards
of cherry trees, and fruitful gardens, producing
every description of vegetation. We crossed
the river by the Puente Arenas, where we saw a
number of sturdy, thick-legged women, loaded
with fresh butter, from the mountains of the Asturias.
I had not tasted that commodity for more
than two years, therefore it will be unnecessary to
describe how readily I made a purchase, and
carried the treasure in front of my saddle, until we
had encamped; but, as ill luck would have it, there
was not any biscuit served out on that day.


The next morning we ascended by a most romantic
winding road for a league, and obtained a
view of the tents of the fifth division, who had
made a détour to outflank the enemy, and to
secure the passage of these narrow defiles. While
passing a village, I asked several of the inhabitants
to sell me some bread; a shake of the head
was the only answer returned. I at last caught
a glimpse of a priest, and, as I was determined
to have bread to eat with the fresh butter, I made
towards him, saluted him by a most gracious
bend, pulled out a pecéta, and requested he would
procure me a loaf; he very good-naturedly acquiesced,
and soon again made his appearance
with a three-pounder, and also returned half my
money: he seemed pleased, so was I, and, more256
courteous salutes having been exchanged between
us, I rejoined the ranks. Travelling onwards,
we perceived a large building on the side of a
hill, with something white waving at each window,
which, on a nearer view, we perceived to
be a convent, and the nuns shaking their white
handkerchiefs to greet our approach. On taking
up our ground for the day, the baggage made its
appearance, and ample justice was done to the
bread and butter by myself and companions.


On the 18th, while we were advancing left in
front, along a narrow road, shrouded by overhanging
woods and high mountains, a hussar informed
us that the enemy were at hand. On reaching a
more open space, we observed a brigade of the
French drawn up behind a rivulet, and their front
covered by a few houses. Two battalions of the
rifle corps, supported by the 52nd, instantly attacked
them, and, after some smart firing, the
enemy gave ground. During this skirmish our
regiment turned off the road to the left, and
formed line on a hill, as a rallying point, in case
of need; when, to our astonishment, we observed
the head of another column of the French issuing,
by a road parallel to us, out of an opening between
two perpendicular rocks, and in rear of
our second brigade, already engaged. The other
regiments composing our brigade scrambled over257
the rocks, to endeavour to attack their left, which
the enemy perceiving, turned off the road, and
made for a hill: the 52nd brought up its left
shoulder, and actually formed line facing to the
rear, at a run, and encountered the enemy on
the crest of the hill, who, the moment they met
that regiment, turned round, and, throwing off
their packs, fled to the mountains, keeping up a
running fight. The second brigade was now engaged
front and rear.


During this desultory fusillade, the baggage
belonging to the French division debouched from
the already described outlet. The whole of the
enemy's escort huddled together, and made a
most desperate resistance amidst the rocks, while
their affrighted animals ran loose, and were seen
on the highest pinnacles of precipices. Nearly
the whole fell into our hands, besides three hundred
wounded and prisoners. The position of
the division became singular after the fight, with
its centre at the village St. Millan, and keeping a
look-out to the front and rear. The enemy had
also attacked the left of our army, near Osma,
in hopes that, by causing such a delay, it would
enable these two brigades, marching from Frias,
to form a junction with their main body.


On the 19th we moved forward, and, at about
ten o'clock in the morning, part of the fourth258
division became engaged with the light troops
of the enemy. Our division then made a short
détour, and turned the left of the French, who
precipitately retired towards Vittoria. The next
day we halted, and the army took up a line on
the river Bayas, after long and arduous marching.
The Marquis of Wellington approached the
river Zadorra, which covered the enemy's position,
for the purpose of examining the ground they
occupied, and pointing out to different generals
the various debouches, and their necessary line
of attack, in the event of the French continuing
to occupy the same ground on the following
day.


On the 21st, we stood to our arms, and moved
forward in darkness, some time before daybreak.
A heavy shower of rain fell; but, as morning
dawned, the clouds dispersed, and the sun arose
with fiery splendour. A towering and steep ridge
of mountains rose abruptly from the valley on
our right, which the Spaniards climbed early
in the morning, at first unopposed; the ascent
was so steep, that, while moving up it, they
looked as if they were lying on their faces, or
crawling. They were supported, and soon followed
across the river Zadorra, and through the
town of Puebla de Arlanzon, by part of the
second division, for the purpose of attacking the259
left of the enemy, who were posted on the heights
above Puebla de Arlanzon and Sabijana de Alava,
where the contest, at the former place, began at
nine o'clock, amongst deep ravines, rocks and
precipices. The second division becoming heavily
engaged with the enemy, under all these disadvantages
it could only maintain the ground already
won, and the firing seemed to die away in
that quarter. Our right centre, composed of the
light and fourth divisions, continued to advance,
as also the great bulk of our cavalry.


At about ten o'clock, on ascending a rising
ground, we observed the French army drawn out
in order of battle, in two lines, their right centre
resting on a round hill, their left centre occupying
a gentle ascent, and their left hid from view
on the heights of Puebla; the river Zadorra ran
at the foot of this formidable position, and then
took a sudden turn, embracing and running parallel
to their right flank, towards Vittoria.


El Rey Joseph, surrounded by a numerous
staff, was stationary on the hill, overlooking his
own right and centre. The French army was
unmasked, without a bush to prevent the sweeping
of their artillery, the charging of their cavalry,
or the fire of their musketry from acting with full
effect on those who should attempt to pass the
bridges in their front, and which it was absolutely260
necessary to carry before we could begin the
action in the centre. When within a short distance
of the river, five of the French light horse
advanced on the main road to look out, and were
overtaken by an equal number of our dragoons,
when they wheeled about and attempted to make
off, without effect; they were assailed on the
near side, when three instantly fell from their
saddles, covered with sabre wounds, and their
affrighted horses galloped at random.


The light division left the road when within
one mile of the river, and drew up in contiguous
close columns behind some shelving rocks near
Olabarre, with the hussar brigade dismounted on
the left; the fourth division made a corresponding
movement, by branching off to the right, and
took post opposite their intended point of attack;
the greater part of our heavy cavalry and dragoons
remained in reserve, to succour the central
divisions, in case the enemy should advance before
the third and seventh divisions should have taken
up their ground on the enemy's right flank. The
first and fifth divisions, with two brigades of
Portuguese, a Spanish division, and two brigades
of dragoons, were making a détour from Murguia,
to place themselves on the line of the enemy's
retreat, towards St. Sebastian; the sixth division
remained some leagues in the rear of our army to261
guard the stores at Medina. Gen. Clausel's division
was manœuvring on our right, but not sufficiently
near on this day to give much cause of
apprehension.


All the movements of our army required the
nicest calculations, both for the attack and defence;
for at this time the four great columns
advancing were separated by difficult rocks and
a rugged country, interspersed with deep gulleys,
narrow roads, and scattered hamlets. The enemy
were again under the painful necessity, for the
third time in one month, of manœuvring on two
sides of a square; and the first cannon fired by
General Graham, at Abechucho and Gamarra
Major,48 must have been to Joseph and Marshal
Jourdan, (his Major-General,) like a shock of
electricity: all in an instant was riot and confusion
in Vittoria; the baggage stuck fast, blocking
up all the roads, and even the fields.


At half-past eleven o'clock the Marquis of
Wellington led the way by a hollow road, followed
by the light division, which he placed unobserved
amongst some trees, exactly opposite
the enemy's right centre, and within two hundred
yards of the bridge of Villoses, which we262
understood was to be carried at the point of the
bayonet. I felt anxious to obtain a view, and,
leisurely walking between the trees, I found myself
at the edge of the wood, and within a very
short distance of the enemy's cannon, planted
with lighted matches ready to apply to them.
Had the attack begun here, the French never
could have stood to their guns so near the thicket;
or at least the riflemen would have annihilated
them. The General-in-chief was now most anxiously
looking out for the third and seventh divisions
to make their appearance. We had remained
some time in the wood, when a Spanish
peasant told the Marquis of Wellington that the
enemy had left one of the bridges across the
Zadorra unprotected, and offered his services to
lead us over it. Our right brigade instantly moved
to its left by threes, at a rapid pace, along a
very uneven and circuitous path, (which was concealed
from the observation of the French by
high rocks,) and reached the narrow bridge which
crossed the river to Yruna. The 1st rifles led
the way, and the whole brigade following, passed
at a run, with firelocks and rifles ready cocked,
and ascended a steep road of fifty yards, at the
top of which was an old chapel, which we had
no sooner cleared, than we observed a heavy column
of French on the principal hill, and commanding263
a bird's-eye view of us. However, fortunately,
a convex bank formed a sort of tête de
pont, behind which the regiments formed at full
speed, without any word of command. Two
round shots came amongst us; the second severed
the head from the body of our bold guide, the
Spanish peasant. The soldiers were so well concealed,
that the enemy ceased firing. Our post
was most extraordinary, as we were at the elbow
of the French position, and isolated from the rest
of the army, within one hundred yards of the
enemy's advance, and absolutely occupying part
of their position on the left of the river, without
any attempt being made by them to dislodge us;
scarcely the sound of a shot, from any direction,
struck on the ear, and we were in momentary
expectation of being immolated; and, as I looked
over the bank, I could see El Rey Joseph, surrounded
by at least five thousand men, within
eight hundred yards of us. The reason he did
not attack is inexplicable, and, I think, cannot
be accounted for by the most ingenious narrator.


Gen. Sir James Kempt expressed much wonder
at our critical position, and our not being molested,
and sent his aide-de-camp at speed across the
river for the 15th Hussars, who came forward
singly, and at a gallop, up the steep path, and264
dismounted in rear of our centre. The French
dragoons coolly, and at a very slow pace, came
within fifty yards to examine, if possible, the
strength of our force, when a few shots from the
rifles induced them to decamp. I observed three
bridges, within a quarter of a mile of each other,
at the elbow of the enemy's position. We had
crossed the centre one, while the other two, right
and left, where still occupied by the French artillery;
at the latter, the enemy had thrown up an
earth entrenchment.


We continued in this awkward state of suspense
for half an hour, when we observed the centre of
the enemy drawing off by degrees towards Vittoria,
and also the head of the third division rapidly debouching
from some rocks on our left near the
hamlet of Mendoza, when the battery at Tres
Puentes opened upon them, which was answered
by two guns from the horse artillery on the right of
the river. Some companies of the rifle corps sprang
from the ground, where they lay concealed, and
darted forward, opening a galling fire on the left
flank of the enemy's gunners, at great risk to
themselves of being driven into the water, as
the river ran on their immediate left, while the
French cavalry hovered on their right; however,
so well did this gallant band apply their loose265
balls, that the enemy limbered up their guns,
and hastily retired; and the third division, at a
run, crossed the bridge of Tres Puentes, cheering,
but unopposed.49


The enemy withdrew the artillery from the
bridges in their centre at two o'clock, p. m., and
were forming across the high road to Vittoria.
The third division had no sooner closed up in contiguous
columns, than General Picton led them
forward in very handsome style, in column, by
a flank movement, so as to place them exactly
opposite the French centre. The fourth division
directly after crossed the river by the bridge of
Nanclara, and were hurrying forward to support
the right flank of the third division; the seventh
division also crossed the bridge of Tres Puentes,266
supported by the second brigade of the light
division, and faced the small village of Marganta.
Our heavy horse and dragoons had deployed
into line, on the other side of the river,
so as to communicate with the rear of the second
division, (in the event of their being driven back
from the mountains,) or to support the centre
of the army, in case of any disaster. They made
a brilliant display of golden helmets and sparkling
swords, glittering in the rays of the sun.


Three divisions being in motion, the centre
and left supported by the light division and the
hussar brigade, the battle began by a terrible
discharge on the third division, while they were
deploying into line. We closed up to them, behind
a bank; when, with loud huzzas, they rushed
from behind it, into the village of Ariyez, with
fixed bayonets, amidst flashing small arms and
rolling artillery, and, after a bloody struggle,
carried it. The enemy's artillery was within two
hundred yards of us, ploughing up the ground in
our rear: fortunately, the bank nearly covered
us, during the time it was necessary to remain
inactive, to support the front attack, if needful.
A Portuguese regiment, attached to our brigade,
had been detached for a short time, and rejoined
in close column; but, just before they reached
the cover, some round shot tore open their centre,267
and knocked over many men; and such was the
alarm of a Portuguese officer, at the whizzing of
balls and bursting of field shells, that he fell into
an officer's arms, weeping bitterly. For ten minutes
at this point, what with dust and smoke,
it was impossible to distinguish any objects in
front, save the shadows of the French artillerymen
serving the guns, and the shouts of troops
while forcing their way into the village. The
smoke had no sooner cleared away, than we came
on the bodies of many dead and gasping soldiers,
stretched in the dust. The sharp fire of musketry
and artillery in the centre, announced it to be the
point of contest. The "advance" of the second
division had been severely handled on the mountains
to our right, but they were now getting on
as speedily as the nature of the ground would
admit, it being composed of deep ravines, and
such natural obstacles, as almost to delay their
progress unopposed.


The first and fifth divisions were engaged at
Gamarra Major and Abechucho, in front of the
bridges over the Zadorra. These villages were
carried after a smart action, by which a position
was gained threatening the enemy's line of retreat
by the high road to France, running N.E.
some distance close on the left of the river. The
bridge was attempted, but was found to be impracticable,268
until our centre had forced the enemy
to give up Vittoria. The different divisions in
the centre were exposed to a desultory fire, while
passing the villages of Gomecha and Luazu de
Alava, and over broken ground, forming lines,
columns, or threading the windings of difficult
paths, according to the nature of the country, or
the opposition of the enemy. The fourth division
pushed back the left centre of the French, and
were fighting successfully, and performing prodigies
of valour, among crags and broken ground.
The seventh division now came in contact with
the enemy's right centre, which resisted so desperately,
and galled them from a wood and the
windows of houses with such showers of bullets,
that victory for a short time was doubtful; however,
the second brigade of the light division
coming up fresh and with closed ranks, assisted
by the seventh division, broke through all opposition
at a run, and routed the enemy at the point
of the bayonet. The four divisions of the centre
continued to gain ground, shooting forward alternately,
leaving the killed and wounded scattered
over a great extent of country. At six o'clock
in the evening, by a sort of running fight, with
hard contests at certain points, the centre of the
army had gained five miles in this amphitheatre;
for General Hill's corps was on the mountains,269
and General Graham was still on the right of the
Zadorra.


The Marquis of Wellington was in the middle
of the battle, vigorously driving the enemy, to
finish that which the wings had so well begun.
First, General Hill's movement in the morning had
caused the enemy to weaken his left centre; then
General Graham's attack induced him to give up
the front line of the Zadorra, without a shot
(hardly) being fired.


At half-past six we were within one mile of the
city of Vittoria, the capital of Alava, situated
in a fruitful valley; but the French army now
drew up, and showed such an imposing array
in front of the town, that our left centre facing
Ali was completely kept at bay, owing to the
blazing of one hundred pieces of cannon vomiting
forth death and destruction to all who advanced
against them. This roaring of artillery continued
for more than an hour on both sides, with unabated
vigour: the smoke rolled up in such
clouds, that we could no longer distinguish the
white town of Vittoria; the liquid fire marked the
activity of the French gunners. During this
momentous struggle, the left centre of the French
covered a bare hill, and continued for a considerable
time immoveable; while, pouring their musketry
into the now-thinned ranks of the third
division, it was doubtful whether the latter would270
be able to keep their ground, under such a deadly
fire from very superior numbers: however, they
maintained this dangerous post with heroic firmness,
having led the van throughout the thick of
the battle.


At this period of the action, it was absolutely
necessary to strain every nerve to win it
before nightfall. The fourth division, on our
right, shot forward against a sugar-loaf hill,
and broke a French division, who retired up it
in a confused mass, firing over each other's heads,
without danger to themselves, owing to the
steepness of its ascent. I was laughing at this
novel method of throwing bullets, when one
struck me on the sash, and fell at my feet, thereby
cooling my ardour for a short time: however,
when a little recovered from the pain, I picked
it up, and put the precious bit of lead into my
pocket.


The scene that now presented itself was
magnificently grand: the valley resounded with
confused sounds like those of a volcanic eruption,
and was crowded with red bodies of infantry and
the smoking artillery, while the cavalry eagerly
looked for an opening to gallop into the town.
On one side of the field rose majestically the
spiral and purple-capped mountains, rearing their
pinnacles on high; on the other ran the glassy
waters of the Zadorra: and the departing sun271
threw his last beams to light up the efforts of those
struggling in dangerous strife for the deliverance
of Spain. The enemy sacrificed all their cannon,
with the exception of eight pieces, while withdrawing
the right of their army behind the left
wing, under cover of this tremendous cannonade,
which was the only chance yet left them to quit
the field in a compact body. This movement
being executed in strange confusion in and about
Vittoria, their left wing retired by echelon of
divisions and brigades from the right, while delivering
their fire; and finally, their last division
quitted the field with nearly empty cartridge-boxes,
and taking the road towards Pampeluna.
The greater portion of our army then brought up
its left shoulder, or rather wheeled the quarter
circle to its right; which movement brought us
on the road to Pampeluna. The French managed
to drag the eight pieces of artillery across the
fields for nearly a league; but, coming to marshy
ground, they stuck fast, and three of them rolled
into a ditch, with mules struggling to disentangle
themselves from their harness. Two pieces
the enemy carried clear out of the action, leaving
their numerous cannon behind them, owing to
the roads being so blocked up with waggons.


The dark shades of evening had already veiled
the distant objects from our view, and nothing of272
the battle remained, save the lightning flashes of the
enemy's small arms on our cavalry, who continued
to hover and threaten their rear guard. The road
to Pampeluna was choked up with many carriages,
filled with imploring ladies, waggons loaded with
specie,50 powder and ball, and wounded soldiers,
intermixed with droves of oxen, sheep, goats,
mules, asses, filles de chambre, and officers. In
fact, such a jumble surely never was witnessed
before; it seemed as if all the domestic animals
in the world had been brought to this spot, with
all the utensils of husbandry, and all the finery of
palaces, mixed up in one heterogeneous mass.


Our brigade marched past this strange scene (I
may well assert) of domestic strife, in close column,
nor did I see a soldier attempt to quit the ranks,
or show the most distant wish to do so; our second
brigade had not yet joined us, when we
bivouacked a league from Vittoria, on the road
towards Pampeluna. The half-famished soldiers
had no sooner disencumbered themselves of their
knapsacks, than they went to forage; for even
here the sheep and goats were running about in
all directions, and large bags of flour lay by the
side of the road: in fact, for miles round the273
town, the great wreck of military stores was
scattered in every direction.


Night put an end to the contest: the growling
of artillery ceased, the enemy were flying in disorder,
the British army bivouacked round Vittoria,
large fires were kindled and blazed up,
and illumined the country, over which were
strewed the dead and suffering officers and soldiers:
strange sounds continued throughout the
night, and passing lights might be seen on the
highest mountains and distant valleys.




44 The iron kettles were very heavy, and were carried on the
backs of mules, one of which was attached to each company;
but, when near the enemy, and the baggage had been sent to the
rear, these unwieldy and capacious kettles were not at all times
to be laid hold of. Besides, it occupied the soldiers a considerable
time to cook their rations, particularly in the extensive
plains, where only stubble could be procured; and also during
the rainy season, when the forest trees were damp. I have
often observed these ponderous kettles turned bottom upwards,
(at a time when there happened to be a scarcity of provisions,)
and encircled by ten or twelve weather-beaten soldiers, who,
with empty stomachs, stepped forward, one at a time, and each
of them in turn rubbing his blacking-brush on the sooty part of
the kettle, blacked his dusty shoes, cap-peak, canteen strap,
and knapsack.


45 A muleteer, so called from having the charge of five mules,
for the use of which he received five dollars daily, and one for
himself. The biscuit, rum, and reserve ball-cartridge, were
carried by the mules;—under charge of the above men the lean
Barbary bulls and bullocks followed the different divisions on
their line of march—the whole originally provided by, and under
the superintendence of commissaries.


46 The British army was composed of eight divisions of infantry,
as usual. The first, of two brigades of Guards, with two
of the King's German Legion; the second, three brigades of
British, and three of Portuguese; the third, two of British, and
one of Portuguese; the fourth, fifth, sixth, and seventh, the
same; the light division of two brigades. Total, seventeen
brigades of British infantry, two of Germans, ten of Portuguese;
besides other detachments. The cavalry consisted of four
brigades of Heavy, and four of Light Dragoons, and two of
Portuguese.


47 The enemy left in the Castle of Pancorbo, (which commands
the narrow and tremendous pass through which the high
road runs towards Miranda,) a small garrison, who soon afterwards
surrendered themselves prisoners to the Spaniards.


48 We could not see the extreme right of the enemy, stationed
near Arunnez, in front of Abechucho and Gamarra Major.


49 The French did not defend any of the seven bridges across
the Zadorra, except the two lying north and N.E. near Vittoria,
although it was their original intention to do so. The able
manœuvres of the General-in-chief threw the French generals
into doubt: they knew not whether to defend their left, their
right, or their centre; so they gave up one after the other, in conformity
with the threatened attacks of the Marquis of Wellington—which
was exactly what he wished, and most accommodating
of his opponents, who thus left this intended great battle
without beginning or without end; for the French infantry were
not half beaten, before disjointed orders and crowds of baggage
blocking up the different roads, completed their confusion past
all remedy.


50 Some excesses were committed, although the greater part
of the booty, as usual, was bagged by the followers of the army.








274


CHAPTER XIII.






Pursuit of the enemy after the battle of Vittoria—Curious spectacle
and adventure in a French bivouac—Advance towards
Pampeluna, and repulse of the French rear-guard—Retreat
of the main body of the enemy into France—Reflections on
the policy of King Joseph—Change of the British route, and
encampment at Sanguessa—A casual dance—Return to Pampeluna—Expulsion
of the French from the valley of Bastan—The
Basque peasantry—Town of Bera—Position for covering
Pampeluna and St. Sebastian—Preparations for the attack of
the latter place—The command of the French assumed by the
Duke of Dalmatia—A family scene—Position of the French
army.




On the morning of the 22d the atmosphere was
overcast, and, being without either cloaks or blankets
to cover us, our uniforms were very damp,
owing to the heavy dew which had fallen during
the night; notwithstanding this, we arose from the
ground exceedingly refreshed, and gazed around,
in mute amazement, at the prodigious wreck of
plundered Spain; for, beneath the French caissons,
tumbrils, and brass cannon, lay scattered
los doblones de oro, of the same virgin gold
which had been extracted in former times from275
the peaceful Incas of the new world, by those
vindictive Spanish adventurers, whose avaricious
veins boiled at that epoch with the hot blood of
the Moors.


At nine o'clock the rolling of the tenor and
bass drums, and the clank of cymbals, beating
the marching time, announced that the leading
regiments of the division were in motion for the
purpose of following the enemy. During the
rest of the day we marched through a valley, enclosed
by highlands, but did not overtake the
enemy; the corn was trampled down in many
places, which showed they had moved in three
columns, whenever the ground would admit of it.
Soon after dark, the division bivouacked in a
wood, a drizzling rain began to fall, and we laid
down under a tree to enjoy a nap, until the arrival
of our sumpter mules, heavily laden with
flour and live stock, which we had industriously
scraped together from the refuse of Vittoria's
field. At midnight we were awakened, with
keen appetites, by the well-known neighing of
the horses, and braying of donkeys; but none of
the baggage animals came our way, and during
our anxious and broken slumbers the night
passed away, and the morning was ushered in by
a sweeping rain, which thoroughly saturated the
troops before they began their march. As I276
chanced to be for the duty of bringing up any
stragglers who might happen to lag behind, and
my hungry messmate being also for the baggage
guard (of those who had come up), we journeyed
together along the sloppy road, when the conversation
naturally turned on the splendid victory
gained over the French legions two days before,
and we remarked how gladdened the people of
England would be on the receipt of such a piece
of glorious intelligence, while they would little
imagine that the greater portion of the victors
would willingly lay down half their laurels for a
good breakfast.


At the close of the evening we came to the remains
of a French bivouac, consisting of doors
and window shutters torn from a neighbouring
village by the enemy, and propped up to screen
them from the inclemency of the weather. The
sole person to be seen was a draggled-tailed old
woman, with a ragged petticoat, who, without
noticing us, or once raising her eyes, continued
to pursue her interesting employment of stirring
up with a stick the mud (which was interspersed
with fragments of books and French novels,) or
handling the broken fragments of earthenware
pots. Our curiosity was so much excited, that
we reined in our steeds to watch the progress of
the wrinkled and copper-coloured old dame, who,277
stretching out her bronzed and shrivelled arm,
at last laid hold of a whole utensil, and as she
hastily splashed off, I caught a glimpse of a
chicken, resting on one leg, behind a shutter,
which somehow or other had escaped the ramrod
of the enemy, and the hawk-eyed soldiers of
the pursuing column. Unsheathing my sabre,
I jumped to the ground, and sprang forward
either to grasp or maim the destined prize; however,
the ground was in such a slimy state, that
my speed availed not; on the contrary it hastened
my fall. My companion, disdaining to
take warning at my mishap, must needs himself
begin a hot pursuit; however, the practical experience
convinced him of the slippery obstacles;
he soon lay sprawling on his face, plastered with
mire: suffice it, the bird escaped, and we resumed
our wet saddles, in a condition and appearance
nowise enviable.—Soon after dark we came to a
river, but as the enemy had not sufficient time to
blow up the bridge, they had set fire to many of
the houses in the main street of the town, (which
were still in flames,) in hopes of blocking up the
way with the burning rafters, which they had
hurled from the roofs of the houses, in expectation
of preventing our artillery from passing through,
and thus harassing our retreat. The rain still
falling in torrents, by degrees extinguished the278
red embers of the smoking ruins, and prevented
the place from being entirely consumed to ashes.
The soldiers of the division crowded the houses,
and huddled under cover wherever they could find
shelter. We were obliged to content ourselves by
squeezing into a small hovel, where the smoke
found egress through the broken roof; the floor
was composed of slabs of rocks, in some places
rearing their primitive heads amid flints and
loose stones. During the night a ration of meat
and six ounces of mouldy biscuit were served out,
which was greedily devoured by the victorious
troops. It was in vain that we scraped into a
heap the stones of this macadamized lodge, for the
purpose of lying down; for bumps and holes only
increased our difficulties, and we were forced to
ascend a broken ladder into a wretched loft,
swarming with vermin, to prick for a soft plank,
whereon to stretch our chilly limbs.


At dawn, on the 24th, we were again on the
road; the weather cleared up, and the cheerful
rays of the sun sparkled in the crystal drops,
which fell on our heads as we glided beneath
the wet foliage. Having advanced a few miles,
we found the enemy's rear-guard posted at a
bare and steep pass, which covered the highroad,
two leagues from Pampeluna. The column
having closed up, two battalions of the rifle corps279
(supported by the horse artillery51) pushed forward,
and, after a sharp skirmish, they succeeded
in pushing back the French rear-guard; the guns
then galloped up the road, and plied the round
shot with such effect, that they succeeded in dismounting
one of the only two cannon which the
enemy had extricated from Vittoria's entangled
field. They had rolled the gun over a steep bank
on the right of the paved causeway, on which
were regular league stones, and the first I had
noticed in Spain. One round shot had struck
down seven of the enemy on the left of the road;
some of them were dead; others still alive, with
either legs or arms knocked off, or otherwise
horribly mutilated, and were crying out in extreme
anguish, and imploring the soldiers to shoot them,
to put an end to their dreadful sufferings. A
German hussar, in our service, assured them that
they would be kindly treated by our medical
officers. "No! no!" they vociferated, "we cannot
bear to live. Countryman, we are Germans,
pray kill us, and shorten our miseries."


Continuing onwards, we soon after drew up on
the slope of a hill, within sight of Pampeluna,
the capital of Navarre; it is well fortified, with280
a strong citadel, and situated near the banks of
the river Arga, in a fertile plain abounding with
wheat, the ears of which we rubbed between our
hands to satisfy the cravings of hunger. Just
before our arrival, the enemy's scattered army had
clustered beneath the ramparts of the fortress,
where they were in hopes of entering to obtain
rest and provisions; but the place was so scantily
supplied, that the gates were ordered to be barred
against all intruders. From this place an excellent
road branches off in a north-westerly direction
to Tolosa; but as General Graham, with his
corps, was marching direct on that town, by the
great road to France, it was of no avail to the
main body of the enemy, who were obliged to
continue their retreat into France, by Roncesvalles
and other roads, merely leaving a rear-guard
in the valley of Bastan.


The following morning we filed over a rugged
and flinty mountain, south-west of Pampeluna,
from the summit of which we almost commanded
a bird's-eye view into the very heart of the town,
garrisoned by four thousand of the enemy. This
place, well provisioned, should have been fixed
on for the grand base of Joseph's defensive and
offensive movements; for, had he made it the
pivot of his operations, and opened his line on
Aragon, (and the strong holds in Catalonia, held281
by the Duke of Albufera), his flanks would have
been secured by the Ebro and the Pyrenees, and
would have thrown our army on two sides of a
square, and entangled it between two strong fortresses,
and the labyrinths of the Pyrenees. Most
probably such a movement would have kept the
war from the immediate frontier of France, whence
fresh troops, under favourable circumstances,
could debouch and attack our left face. From
political reasons, the time had not arrived for the
decided invasion of that country; besides, if it
had, such an invasion could not have been executed,
so long as the enemy hovered in force on
our right flank.


Continuing our route, we crossed the river
Arga, and entered the town of Villalba: our
baggage at last came up, and the Casa in which
we were quartered was enclosed by a good garden,
well stocked with vegetables, which was considered
a piece of good fortune in those times.
This day, the 25th, General Graham overtook
General Foy, retiring from the vicinity of Bilboa,
who, on hearing of the unhappy extent of the
French disasters at Vittoria, made an effort to
block up the passage through Tolosa, but the
victorious English broke through all obstacles,
and continued to advance. In a few days the282
small garrison of Los Passages surrendered themselves
prisoners. Thus it was that the left wing
of the army had hardly halted since issuing from
the bowels of Portugal, until the precipitous
bank of the river Bidassoa (which divided France
and Spain), put a stop for a time to its memorable
march and victorious career.


On the 26th we had an idea that we should
halt, but during the day we were again under
arms, (marching by an excellent road running
S.S.E., leading direct on Tafalla,) accompanied
by the third and fourth divisions, with a proportion
of cavalry and artillery, to endeavour to
cut off General Clausel's corps, which had approached
Vittoria the day after the battle; but he
also, being made acquainted with the total route
of El Rey Joseph, immediately countermarched
on Logroño, and thence to Tudella.52 During the
movements of the right and left wings of the
British army, General Hill, with the centre,
showed front, and masked Pampeluna.


283


The weather now cleared up, but continued
variable during the whole summer; the seasons
here being totally different from the dry and
scorching heats in the more southern provinces,
where the sun-burnt mountains and vast
plains, are covered, at this time of the year, with
a parched vegetation, or the remains of many
cindered forests.


Continuing our movement, we became once
again extricated from the mountainous regions,
which had every where enclosed us for more than
a fortnight. The country was now open, and
highly cultivated, with groups of bold peasantry
lining each side of the way, and greeting us by
crying Vivan los Coluros, y viva el Réy Fernándo
séptimo; and, while moving in the direction of
Tudella, our enthusiastic hopes were raised to
the highest pitch, at the probability of reaching
the venerable and renowned city of Saragossa;
but our line was all at once changed, and by a
forced march we entered the province of Aragon,
passing through a barbarous-looking country,
barely peopled, (the forlorn pueblos lying wide
asunder, the poor dwellings being mostly constructed
of dried mud, and plastered over with
the same substance;) and at the expiration of five
days we reached Sanguessa, and encamped.


284


Here we halted one day,53 and, while promenading
the town in the evening, the soft notes
of music floated in the air, and on a nearer approach
to the place whence the sounds issued, we
were agreeably saluted by the scraping and cheerful
notes of violins. A crowd of Spaniards had
assembled round the door of the Casa, and on
being questioned by another officer and myself
whether the ball was public, "Oh si señores,"
answered they, "es muy público:" so, bustling up
the stone steps, and feeling our way along a dark
passage, we found ourselves, on opening a massive
door, amongst many señoritas, with a scarcity
of caballeros. A staff-officer, who was the promoter
of the dance, expressed his gladness at so
opportune an arrival. Although a friend, we
apologised to him for the apparent intrusion;
but he was a man of no ceremony, and declared
it to be a lucky mistake; which turned out to be
the case, for we beat good waltz time during the
whole night, to the great satisfaction of the señoritas.


285


On reaching the camp the following morning,
the tents were already struck, and the
troops moving off on their return to Pampeluna.
What with the overpowering rays of the sun, the
rising clouds of dust, and our overnight's exertion,
we were so overcome, that had it not been for
the kindly arms of the soldiers, we should have
dropped from off our horses, while fast asleep,
dreaming of black-eyed señoras, waltzing, and
precipices!


In two days we reached Pampeluna by a more
direct road, but the men began to flag, owing to
irregular and poor feeding; besides which, we had
been marching for thirty-two days, with only two
regular halts, since quitting our camp between
Toro and Salamanca; therefore, those plagued and
suffering from sore feet were under the painful
necessity (unless totally unable to proceed), of
going on until they got well again. I have often
seen the blood soaking through the gaiters, and
over the heels of the soldiers' hard shoes, whitened
with the dust.


The general-in-chief having cleared his right
flank, and again condensed his right and centre
round Pampeluna, debouched thence on the 4th
July, for the purpose of taking possession of
the passes of the western Pyrenees, and pushing
the enemy's vanguard out of the valley of Bastan286
into France; which was executed by part of the
second division, on the 7th. Our division, forming
the left centre of the army, flanked this movement.


Our route at first lay through verdant and
luxuriant valleys, abounding with apple orchards,
groves of chesnut trees, and small fields of Indian
corn; from thence we ascended by broken roads,
over rugged mountains, which were cracked in
many places into vast chasms, overhung with oak
trees of enormous magnitude, whose ponderous
and wide spreading branches cast their dark shadows
over the dried water-courses and natural
grottos, formed by the intricate mazes of the
underwood, entwining around the peaked and
overhanging rocks, which in many places were
garnished with wild strawberries.


The third day after leaving Pampeluna, we descended
from the mountains into the compact
little town of St. Estevan, situated on the rocky
and woody bank of the clear stream of the Bidassoa,
over which a good stone bridge communicates
with the opposite side of the river: here we halted,
with full leisure to explore the lovely scenery,
which on every side encircled this secluded valley.


Our curiosity was much excited by the peculiar
method of washing in this part of the country, the
women squatting, or rather sitting on their bare287
heels, with their lower garments tightly pulled
about them, whilst others stood in the river
rinsing the linen, with their only petticoat tied in
a knot very high up betwixt their legs, displaying
the most perfect symmetry; and it was morally
impossible to refrain from admiring the natural
and graceful forms of these nymphs.


The dress of the Basque peasantry is totally
different from that of other provinces, and many
of the females possess very fair complexions and
are extremely beautiful, being a happy mixture of
las brunas y las blondas; their hair is combed
back without any curls, and plaited into a long
tail, which hangs down below the hips; their
jackets are of blue or brown cloth, and pinned so
exceedingly tight across the breast, that the bosom
seldom swells to any size; the woollen and only
petticoat worn by them is of a light or mixed colour,
reaching to the middle of the calf of the leg; and,
with the exception of the bosom being so compressed,
they are divinely formed. They are also remarkably
nimble of foot, and always carry their little
merchandize on the top of the head; they seldom
wear shoes or stockings, except on Sundays and
saints' days. The men go bare-necked, and wear
a blue cap, or bonnet, (precisely similar to those
worn in the highlands of Scotland,) with bushy hair
hanging in ringlets on their shoulders. In hot288
weather they usually carry the short blue, or brown
jacket, slung over the left shoulder, and with long
and rapid strides, or at times, breaking into a
short run, they traverse the steep acclivities with
their shoes and stockings frequently slung on a
long pole, which they either carry sloped over the
shoulder, or grasped in the middle like a javelin,
and use it for the purpose of assisting them in scaling
or descending the crags, or frightful precipices.
Their waistcoats are double-breasted, without a
collar; the breeches are of brown cloth, or blue
velveteen, fitting tight over the hips, (without
braces), and reaching to the cap of the knee, where
they are usually unbuttoned, to give full play to
the limbs; a red sash is twisted round the loins.
They are a gaunt, sinewy, and remarkably active
race of men, of sallow complexions; their limbs
are admirably proportioned, and they are as upright
as a dart.


After a rest of two days, we marched towards
Bera by a narrow road, running parallel on the
right bank of the river Bidassoa, the greater part
of the way being blocked up with large stones, or
fragments of rock, which had tumbled from the
overhanging cliffs, that were rent in many places
into terrific chasms, partly choked with huge trunks
or roots of trees, through which overwhelming torrents
gushed from the mountains during the heavy289
rains and formed vast cataracts, often swelling
the river into a foaming and angry torrent. Its
rocky bed is fordable at this time of the year, and
varies from thirty, to more than a hundred yards
in breadth. Owing to the badness of the road, a
number of infantry soldiers were employed in
clearing away obstacles, or lifting the wheels of
the cannon, with handspikes, over the loose fragments
or projecting slabs of rock, which, at every
few paces for three leagues impeded their progress.


During the march we passed near the bridges of
Sunbilla, Yansi, and Lazaca, which cross to the left
bank of the river, where some Spanish sentinels
were posted on the cliffs, who called out to us,
"miren ustedes, miren los Franceses," and on
casting our eyes upwards, we observed three of the
enemy's chasseurs à cheval, looking down on us as
if from the clouds. Part of the division had been
already detached, for the purpose of keeping a look
out up the narrow road to the right leading to the
heights of Echalar. Just before we reached the
mouth of this contracted defile, a buzz from the head
of the column proclaimed the enemy's infantry to
be at hand, and the musketry had no sooner commenced,
than an officer, who had been amusing
himself by the perusal of a volume of Gil Blas,
hastily placed it under the breast of his grey
pelisse: almost at the same instant a musket ball290
buried itself in the middle of the book, and displaced
him from his horse, without inflicting any
further injury; it is a curious fact, that the exact
pattern of the silk braiding of the pelisse54 was
indented in the leaden bullet.


Our front being speedily cleared of the enemy's
skirmishers, the firing ceased, and we entered a
pleasant valley, within half a mile of Bera, which
on this road is the frontier town of Spain, and is
situated at an elbow, on the right bank of the
Bidassoa: it has a good church with a lofty steeple,
and consists of one long straggling street, a
quarter of a mile in length, and immediately at the
foot of the mountain de Comissari, over which a
steep road, three yards broad, crosses the summit,
which is called the puérta de Bera, and leads
N.N.E. to St. Jean de Luz, in France; two other
roads, if they may be so designated, branch off
right and left from Bera, the first running easterly
along the valley, (parallel with a small rivulet
which empties itself into the Bidassoa), and passes
between the great rock of La Rhune and the opposite
mountain of St. Bernard, to St. Barbe and291
Sarré, into France; at this point the rugged defile
is very narrow, and almost causes a complete
break or separation in the western Pyrenees: the
other road from Bera runs across the Bidassoa,
over a narrow stone bridge, four hundred yards
from the town, to Salines, thence branching off
through gloomy forests and over steep mountains
to Oyarzun, Passages, and Saint Sebastian.


From Salines there is also a narrow rugged
pathway, which traverses N.N.W. by the winding
current, on the left bank of the Bidassoa; it is
intersected with loose stones, and in many places
ascends the steep and difficult acclivities over the
naked rock, and finally enters the great road
beyond Irun, which leads across the Bidassoa
(where the enemy had broken down the bridge)
into France, thence passing over the river Nivelle
to St. Jean de Luz, and on to Bayonne, a distance
of about twenty-four miles from Irun, which is the
frontier town of Spain by that route.


The right of the enemy immediately opposed to
us rested on a nearly perpendicular rock, at an
elbow of the Bidassoa, and overlooking the small
market place of Bera, so much so, that, if inclined,
they might have smashed the roofs of the houses,
at the west end of the town, by rolling down upon
them huge fragments of rock. This post was decorated
with a variety of fancy flags, or strips of292
cloth, of various colours, tied at the top of long
poles while groups of French tirailleurs, who encircled
them, sounded their small shrill trumpets,
and jocosely invited us to the attack.


Their centre or reserve, composed of black
columns, crowned the heights on each side of the
Puerta de Bera, and also the wooded heights extending
to the base of the rock of La Rhune, on
which their left was stationed in an old ruin.


The ground having been fully examined, and the
picquets properly placed, we re-entered the mouth
of the pass, and, having cut down two or three
small fields of Indian corn, and stored it up as
provender for the animals, we encamped on the
stubble close to the river. The day was fine, but
during the night the rain descended in torrents,
and continued to fall so heavily for two days, as to
swamp the ground on which our tents were
pitched, and it was with the utmost exertion that
we could keep them upright, owing to the frequent
gusts of wind tearing the pegs out of the liquid
mud. In these damp and chilly regions the tents
proved of incalculable service to the army. The
weather again clearing, our first brigade ascended
the bare heights of Santa Barbara, the second
brigade occupied a rising ground to protect the
entrance of the defile leading to St. Estevan, and
the picquets were pushed into the town of Bera,293
(within half a stone's throw and beneath those of
the enemy), and into the farm houses in the valley,
enclosed by orchards.55


The stupendous and lofty chain of the western
Pyrenees being now taking up for the purpose of
covering Pampeluna and St. Sebastian, the second
division occupied the various rugged paths and
passes winding Up the steep sides of the mountains
near Roncesvalles and Maya; the seventh division
those of Echalar; the light division the heights of
Santa Barbara, and the road leading to St. Estevan,
opposite to Bera; and the first division and
Spaniards guarding the left bank of the Bidassoa
to the sea-coast. The latter troops helped to block
up the numerous gaps, all along the crest of the
position, such as mountain paths, goat tracts, and
dried water-courses, as well as the numerous fords
across the Bidassoa. This extended position is
about thirty-eight miles in extent, as the crow
flies, running north west from Roncesvalles to
the town of Fontarabia, (which is situated near the
mouth of the Bidassoa, where this river empties
itself into the sea,) but necessarily following the
rugged and zigzag flinty roads, along the winding
or crooked valleys, or over difficult mountains,
intersected with deep glens, chasms, craggy defiles,
tremendous precipices, and through almost impenetrable294
forests. The distance may be fairly
calculated at sixty miles for troops to march from
right to left.


On the 13th, the Duke of Dalmatia came from
the north for the purpose of taking the command
of the French army. The 15th being the anniversary
of Napoleon's birth-day, the enemy at
night illuminated their bivouac, by ingeniously
festooning the branches of the trees with thousands
of paper lamps, which produced a very bright glare,
and of course presented a very novel appearance.


Four days after this, the fifth division began to
dig the trenches at St. Sebastian, for the purpose
of erecting batteries to batter en brêche. The third
and fourth divisions, which had been kept in the
neighbourhood of Pampeluna in reserve, and also
to assist the Spaniards in drawing a line of circumvallation
round that place, for the purpose of
hemming in and starving the garrison into a surrender,
now moved forward (leaving a Spanish
corps to guard the lines); the former went to
Olacque, and the latter to Biscarret; the sixth
division was at St. Estevan: these three divisions
being the reserve, and ready to succour at those
points where their assistance might be required.
The cavalry and artillery were cantoned in rear of
the centre and left of the whole army.


One evening, while reclining on the parched and295
sun-burnt turf at the tent door, our milch goat
nibbling particles of hard biscuit out of my hand,
on looking around, I was much struck with the
beauty of the scenery; the azure sky was reddened
and glowing with a variety of brilliant tints,
reflected from the glare of the setting sun, whose
bright rays glided the rugged peaks of the towering
and great bulging mountains which every
where inclosed us. A long line of grey-coated
French sentinels lined the opposite ridge, and one
of their bands was playing a lively French air. In
the valley below us, the little active Basque boys
and girls were pelting each other with apples,56 between296
the hostile armies, while the straggling
and half-starved Spanish soldiers (who dared not
pluck the fruit) pretending to enjoy the sport,
but in reality were picking up the apples, and
carefully depositing them in their small forage
bags. In the back ground sat our tanned and
veteran batman,57 employed in mending a pack-saddle,
after a long day's forage, and casting
an eye of affection towards his animals, which
were tied round a stake, feeding, with ears
turned back, on some fresh heads of Indian corn.
In the meanwhile my messmate was conversing
with, and drawing a caricature of, a dowdy woman,58
(from the Asturias,) loaded with an oblong
basket of fresh butter, with her arms akimbo, and297
her nut-brown knuckles resting on hips which
supported no less than four short coarse woollen
petticoats; from underneath these branched out a
pair of straddling legs, of enormous circumference,
the feet being wrapped in brown hairy skins, by
way of sandals. In this position of things my contemplative
mood was all at once interrupted by an
officer of the rifle corps riding up, who, with a
mysterious air, whispered me, by way of a profound
secret, that he had become acquainted with a Spanish
family, residing in the town of Bera, and offered
to introduce me, provided I would agree to
limit my attentions to the eldest daughter, Maria
Pepa, who, he acknowledged, was endowed with
very ordinary attractions, whereas her sister, Ventura,
of seventeen, possessed charms of a far superior
description. As a matter of course, not wishing
to throw any impediments in the way of so liberal
an offer, I readily acquiesced in the proposal,
and forthwith accompanied him to the destined
Casa, for as such I may justly nominate it, as I
may affirm that this introduction was subsequently
the means of the life of a wounded brother officer
being preserved, owing to the kind attention of
its inmates, who watched over his mattress night
and day, until he was out of danger: his hurt in
fact was so severe, that when a doctor was asked298
how he found the patient, he replied. "Pretty well,
but no man can ever recover from such a wound."


On alighting from our horses we entered the
house, and having ascended the staircase, we
found el Padre, la Madre, y las dos hijas seated
in a spacious apartment, with the casements open,
and a French sentinel, who was posted on a projecting
grey rock, so thoroughly overlooking the
house, that we could almost fancy he could overhear
the lamentations of the anxious parents,
who, devoutly crossing themselves, prayed that
the siege of St. Sebastian might be speedily
brought to a conclusion, to enable them to return
to their house at that place, and secure the valuable
plate and property, which they had been
forced to abandon in great haste, to escape being
confined in that town during the siege. Having
passed some hours with them in a very agreeable
manner, we took our departure, with a promise
of shortly renewing our visit.


The left and main body of the French army,
being now concentrated, formed a line at the foot
of the Pyrenees, in the vicinity of Forage and St.
Jean Pied de Port, in France, with its right wing
occupying the mountains from the Rock of la
Rhune to Bera, thence by the right of the Bidassoa
to Andaye, and flanked by the Bay of299
Biscay. This ridge immediately covers the country
in front of St. Jean de Luz and Bayonne.


Preparatorily to offensive movements, the French
marshal issued a flaming proclamation to his
troops, in which he reminded them that the
standards of Britain waved aloft, and that her
army, from the summits of the Pyrenees, proudly
looked down on the fertile fields of France,—an
evil which he attributed to the want of decision
in the late French commanders. "Let us then,"
said the Marshal, "wipe off the stain from our
faded laurels, by chasing the English beyond
Vittoria, and there celebrate another triumph, to
add to the many victories which have so often
decorated your brows, in all parts of Spain, and
on many a hard-fought day."




51 Lieut.-Colonel Ross of the Horse Artillery, as usual, commanded
this troop.


52 There he gained information of our movements, which
forced him to follow the right bank of the Ebro, until he
reached Saragossa, where, crossing the river, and leaving a
small garrison behind, he moved towards the pass of Jaca, and
entering France on the 1st of July, he at last succeeded, after a
round-about march, with the loss of the greater part of his
matériel, in forming a junction with the French army.


53 There was a great scarcity of wood in the neighbourhood
of this place, and as the third division followed ours, Sir Thomas
Picton cast his eye on a pile ready cut, and, as soon as he had
dismissed his division, sent a regular party, with a val, to secure
it, when, lo! it had all vanished!


54 Many of the officers of our corps wore red and grey pelisses,
similar to those of the Hussars. The bullet which I have described
was afterwards shown as a curiosity, and I examined it
myself; the silk braiding had been carried into the compressed
leaves of the book, and remained twisted tight round the ball.


55 These produce an abundance of small tart apples.


56 This was a usual pastime among them, throughout the
mountains, which abounded with vast quantities of apple trees.
One day another officer and myself were enjoying a rural walk,
when we met two of our friends, whom for amusement we
pelted with apples, and drove them at full speed out of the
orchard. All of a sudden, we were assailed by a number of the
Basque boys, led on by a girl, who had witnessed our sport at a
distance, and, although we piqued ourselves on being pretty good
throwers, we found it a difficult matter to contend with them,
from their dexterity in dealing out such irritating blows on our
faces and legs; until, being ashamed to ask for quarter of such
diminutive and laughing antagonists, we made a last effort, and
succeeded in hitting one of their leaders on the bare heel, when
they all ran away, to our exceeding satisfaction. My companion
had been a Cadet at the Royal Military College at Marlow, and
declared that he had never experienced a warmer rencontre in his
more juvenile affrays at that place.


57 The batmen of the army were hard-working and privileged
characters, who, after unloading at the end of harassing marches
were obliged to go a great distance in search of forage, and
armed with a sickle ready to cut down even rushes, or any
thing they could lay their hands upon, for their famished
animals. If all happened to be right, after a long day's journey
when questioned by the anxious officers (no matter of what
rank), they would negligently turn away, and scarcely give any
answer; but if one of their horses or mules happened to be
lame or suffering from a sore back, or had cast a shoe, they
would fret, fume, curse, swear, throw the ropes about, and give
such a catalogue of evils, as to terrify the master with the idea
that all was going to rack and ruin.


58 These hardy women are in the habit, thus heavily loaded,
of walking thirty or forty miles a day.








300


CHAPTER XIV.






Offensive operations of the Duke of Dalmatia—Partial retrogression
of the British—Ill success in the storming of the breaches
at St. Sebastian—Movements of the various divisions—Great
extent of the British line along the Pyrenees—Interesting
domestic scene attending the departure of the Author's Division
from the town of Bera—Battle of Pampeluna—Embarrasing
situation of the light division through an accidental separation
from the army—Successes obtained over the French, and
their consequent retreat—Active movements, and capture of
the enemy's baggage—A trait of character—Continued advantages
gained over the French, who are driven beyond the
Pyrenees.




The Duke of Dalmatia, on the 25th of July,
assaulted the passes in the neighbourhood of
Roncesvalles,59 and the Count d'Erlon that of
Aretesque, four miles in front of Maya. The result
of this day's combat obliged Generals Cole,301
Byng, and the Spanish General Morillo, to fall
back from Roncesvalles; owing to which retrograde,
the British army were taken in reverse. The
fifth division, at daybreak, had stormed the
breaches of St. Sebastian without success; two
thousand men had fallen, or were made prisoners,
at the various points of contest; and General Hill
fell back, during the night, from the pass of Maya.
So far every thing seemed propitious to the views
of the French marshal. Under all these circumstances,
General Campbell, (who was stationed
with a Portuguese brigade at the pass of Los
Alduides,) finding his flanks laid bare, retired from
that post, and, during the 26th, formed a junction
with General Picton, who, by a flank movement to
the right, had marched from Olacque to Lizoain,
for the purpose of succouring the troops falling
back from Roncesvalles.


During these operations, General Hill had
taken up a strong position at Irrueta, sixteen
miles from the pass of Aretesque, where he opposed,
for the time being, the farther progress of
the Count d'Erlon. This position covered the
flank of General Picton's column, retrograding
from Zubiri, and prevented the Count d'Erlon
from uniting with the Duke of Dalmatia; and
also enabled the sixth division to march direct to302
the rear from San Estevan, and to unite at the
well-arranged point d'appui, five miles in front
of Pampeluna, where, on the 27th, the general-in-chief
joined those troops which had retired
from Zubiri, under the command of Generals
Picton, Cole, Byng, Campbell, and Morillo, and
who were now drawn up on a strong ridge in
front of Pampeluna, and flanked by the rivers
Arga and Lanz. General Picton was in a manner
thrown back on the left of the Arga, in front of
Olaz, and supported by General Cotton, with the
cavalry in reserve, for the purpose of preventing
the enemy from taking the right of the army in
reverse by the road from Zubiri. The enemy,
who had followed the march of the troops by that
road, had no sooner arrived opposite the third
division, than by an oblique prolongation to their
right, they began to extend their line across the
front of the General-in-chief, under a fire of
small-arms,—by which manœuvre they succeeded
in cutting off General Hill's retreat by the Maya
road, running through Ortiz; he, therefore, having
passed through Lanz, hedged off diagonally in a
westerly direction, and, by an oblique march,
formed a junction with the seventh division (from
St. Estevan) at Lizasso, thence to co-operate, if
possible, with the left of the General-in-chief,303
whose position in front of Pampeluna was about
eighteen miles from that place. During these
various movements, General Graham, with the
first and fifth divisions, and a corps of Spaniards,
remained stationary on the left bank of the Bidassoa,
for the double purpose of covering St.
Sebastian, (the siege of that place was now converted
into a blockade, and the battering train
embarked at the port of los Passages,) and watching
General Villate. The latter lined the opposite
bank of the river, to be in readiness to assume the
offensive, for the purpose of raising the siege of
St. Sebastian, or hanging on General Graham's
rear, in the event of the Duke of Dalmatia gaining
a victory at Pampeluna, or succeeding in
cutting off in detail the various divisions of the
British army, now thrown into echelon, and extending
from the banks of the Bidassoa, in front
of Irun, to seven miles in an easterly direction
beyond Pampeluna; a distance of at least sixty
miles for the army to unite to either flank, (between
two fortresses, whose ramparts were garnished
with the cannon and small-arms of the
enemy,) on an irregular quarter circle: amid
multifarious barren rocks, towering mountains,
and extensive forests, over whose inhospitable
regions it was necessary, amongst other things,
to convey provisions, ammunition, and biscuit304
bags, for the daily consumption of the moveable
divisions,—an operation attended with great difficulty
under such circumstances.


Although the right of the army had been retiring
for two days, the light division still tranquilly
remained unmolested in front of Bera; but
on the morning of the 27th, on finding that the
seventh division had quitted the heights of Echalar,
and uncovered our right flank, the first brigade
quietly descended from the heights of Santa
Barbara, and the whole division concentrated behind
the defile on the road to Lazaca, the picquets
being left to mask this movement, and form the
rear-guard. As soon as the division had got clear
off, the picquets evacuated the farm-houses in succession
from the right; and lastly, at ten o'clock,
a. m., quitted the town of Bera within pistol-shot
of the enemy's sentinels, who pretended not
to notice this retrograde, probably being apprehensive
of bringing on an action without being
able at this point to display a sufficient force to
assume offensive movements, and also conjecturing
that the division might meet with a reception
little anticipated, on reaching the neighbourhood
of Pampeluna. The Duke of Dalmatia, at this
moment, was still pursuing the troops from Roncesvalles
and Zubiri, and actually within a few
hours of the vicinity of Pampeluna, two days'305
march behind the second and seventh divisions,
and three in rear of the light division, and even
threatening to intercept the sixth division from
St. Estevan.


As I was left with the picquets at Bera, I had
a good opportunity of witnessing the sang froid
of the French outposts. They made no forward
movement, and as I was loitering behind, within
a short distance of the bridge of Lazaca, over
which the troops had crossed to the left bank of
the Bidassoa, I observed the Spanish family, (with
whom I had recently become acquainted,) with
rapid strides trudging along the flinty road, having
rushed from their only dwelling through fear of
the French, the instant they perceived the sentries
retiring from their posts. They now presented
real objects of commiseration, clad in thin shoes
and silk stockings; the glossy ringlets were
blown from off the forehead of la Señorita
Ventura, and a tear from her dark blue eye,
(shaded with raven eye-lashes), rolled down her
flushed cheek, into the prettiest pouting lips to
be imagined; a mantilla loosely hung across her
arm, fluttering in the breeze, and a black silk
dress, hanging in graceful folds around her delicate
form, gave her, with all her troubles, a most
enchanting appearance. El Padre accepted the
offer of my horse, and, sticking his short legs into306
the stirrup leathers, composedly smoked a cigar.
The mother took my arm, the other I offered to
Ventura, who smilingly declined, saying, "It is
not the fashion for las Señoritas to take the arm
of los Caballeros," but politely offered her hand.
While crossing the bridge, "Here," said the little
heroine, "why do you not call back los soldados,
and tell them to tirár las bálas a este puénte?"
I endeavoured to explain that our flank was
turned, and all the grand manœuvres of an army;
little to her satisfaction, for she could not comprehend
any other than the front attack.


On entering the town, the family stopped at a
large stone mansion of a relation, where they
intended to take up their abode for the present:
the parents urged my departure, through fear that
I might fall into the hands of the enemy. I then
took my farewell of them, (as I thought, for the
last time), and galloping through the town, soon
came within sight of the division, threading
its march up a steep defile, enclosed on all sides
by an extensive forest. Towards evening we
encamped, one league and a half W. N. W. of
San Estevan, on the mountain of Santa Cruz,
from whence we still commanded a view of the
French bivouac. Here we halted during the
night.


On the following day, the battle of Pampeluna307
took place thirty miles in our rear, but, being
entangled amongst the mountains, we did not
hear of the event until three days afterwards.
The combat began in a singular manner: the
sixth division, under Gen. Pack, while on its
march over a rough country, intersected by stone
walls, within a few miles of Pampeluna, suddenly
encountered the grey-coated French columns in
full march, debouching from behind the village
of Sauroren for the purpose of outflanking the
left of the fourth division. The consequence
of these two hostile bodies clashing was, that
the enemy's van were driven back by a hot fire
of musketry. The French, being thus foiled in this
manœuvre, turned their grand efforts against the
front of the heights on which the fourth division
was stationed, commanded by Sir L. Cole. The
valour of the red regiments shone transcendant,
and the Marquis of Wellington repeatedly thanked
the various corps, while they were recovering
breath to renew fresh efforts with the bayonet, in
driving the enemy headlong from the crest of the
rugged heights; thus forcing them, after a most
sanguinary and furious contest, to desist from
farther offensive movements on that position.


The General-in-chief could only collect, at the
end of three days, two brigades of the second
division, General Morillo's, and part of the Count308
d'Abisbal's Spaniards, and the three reserve divisions,
to oppose the Duke of Dalmatia; which
clearly demonstrates the great difficulty of occupying
such a vast and rugged range of country.
The first, second, fifth, seventh, and light divisions,
were too far distant to join in the action of
the 28th; and even the third division, only a few
miles to the right of the field of action, could not
take part in it, as the enemy had a corps of observation
opposite General Picton, backed by a
numerous train of artillery and a large body of
cavalry, in readiness to engage him, should the
sixth and fourth divisions lose the day.


The light division continued in position at
Santa Cruz during the whole of the 28th, having
completely lost all trace of the army; and, during
these doubtful conjectures, at sunset we began to
descend a rugged pass, leading W.S.W. near Zubieta,
to endeavour to cut in upon the high road between
Pampeluna and Tolosa, as it was impossible
to know whether General Graham, by this time,
was not even beyond the latter town. To add to our
difficulties, the night set in so extremely dark that
the soldiers could no longer see each other, and
began to tumble about in all directions; some
became stationary on shelvings of rocks, or so
enveloped in the thicket, that they could no
longer extricate themselves from the trees and309
underwood. The rocks and the forest resounded
with many voices, while here and there a small
fire was kindled and flared up, as if lighted in the
clouds by some magic hand. For myself, I at
length became so exhausted and out of temper,
at the toil of lugging along my unwilling steed,
that in a fit of despair I mounted, and keeping a
tight rein, permitted the animal to pick its
own steps. The branches of the trees so continually
twisted round my head that I expected
every minute to find myself suspended; at last
the trusty horse made a dead stop, having emerged
from the forest into a small hamlet, where I encountered
a few harrassed soldiers, enquiring of
each other where the main body had vanished to,
or what direction to pursue, for they no longer
knew whether they were advancing or retiring; and,
without farther ceremony, they began to batter
with the butt-end of their firelocks the strong and
massive doors of the slumbering inhabitants, demanding,
with stentorian voices, if any troops
had passed that way?—a difficult question for
people to answer who had just risen from their
mattresses, and now timidly opened their doors,
in considerable alarm, being apprehensive that we
had come at midnight hour to rob and plunder310
them. At last a resolute Spaniard60 threw a large
capote over his shoulder, and, stepping forward,
said, "Señores Caballeros, only inform me
whence you came or whither you are going, and
I will be your guide;" but we were so bewildered,
owing to the crooked path, and the intricate
windings of the forest, that no one could take
upon himself to point towards the direction of the
bleak mountain we had come from, or the name
of the place we were going to; as a matter of
expediency, therefore, we patiently awaited the
coming morn.61


At daybreak, a scene of complete confusion
presented itself, the greater part of the division311
being scattered over the face of a steep and woody
mountain, and positively not half a league from
whence they had started on the previous evening.
As soon as the various corps had grouped together,
they followed the only road in sight, and soon
met a mounted officer, who directed them towards
Leyza: near that place one-half of the division
were already bivouacked, having reached the
valley before the pitchy darkness had set in. It
was now the third day since we had retired from
Bera, and Gen. Baron C. Alten became so uneasy,
that he ordered some of the best-mounted
regimental officers to go in various directions to
ascertain, if possible, some tidings of the army,
with which he had had no communication for
three days, being now isolated amongst the wilds
of the Pyrenees, on the left of the river Bidassoa,
half-way between St. Sebastian and Pampeluna.
At six o'clock the same evening we again broke
up and marched two leagues in the direction of
Arressa, and then bivouacked in a wood, with an
order not to light fires, thus to prevent any of the
enemy's scouts or spies ascertaining our route.
Two hours after nightfall, the troops were again
put in motion, and I was left in the forest, with
directions to continue there all night, to bring off
in the morning any baggage or stragglers that
might happen to go astray. At daylight on the312
30th, having collected together a few women (who
dared not again encounter another toilsome night-march
along the verge of precipices); it was a
droll sight to see this noisy group defiling from
the forest, many dressed in soldiers' jackets,
battered bonnets, and faded ribbons, with dishevelled
locks hanging over their weather-beaten
features, as they drove along their lazy borricas
with a thick stick; and, when the terrific blows
laid on ceased to produce the desired effect, they
squalled with sheer vexation, lest they might be
overtaken, and fall into the hands of the enemy's
light horse. Having travelled for two hours as a
sort of guide to these poor women, I perceived an
officer at some distance in front, and, on my overtaking
him, he expressed the greatest joy at seeing
me, and declared that he had been wandering for
some hours in the most agitated state of mind,
not knowing whither to bend his footsteps. The
division had drawn up again during the night, and
he having, lain down on the flank of the column,
had fallen into a profound slumber, out of which
he had awoke at broad daylight, with the rays
of the sun shining full on his face; and, when
somewhat recovering his bewildered recollections,
he wildly gazed around for the column which had
vanished, and springing on his feet, hallooed with
all his might; but no answer was returned, a313
solemn silence reigned around, save the fluttering
of the birds amongst the luxuriant foliage of the
trees; the morning dew no longer bespangled the
sod, nor did the print of a single footstep remain
to guide his course: at length, in a fit of desperation,
he hastily tore a passage through the
thicket, and luckily reached the road, and at random
sauntered along in no very pleasant mood,
until I overtook him.—Soon after this we heard
to our left sounds like those of distant thunder;
as the sky was perfectly serene, we concluded
that the noise must be caused by a heavy firing
of musketry.62 On reaching Arriba, we found most
of the doors closed; however, we succeeded in314
purchasing a loaf, and then seated ourselves on
the margin of a clear mountain-stream, where we
devoured it, and forthwith solaced ourselves with
a hearty draught of the refreshing beverage. This
stream looked so inviting, that we threw off our
clothes and plunged into it. Notwithstanding the
cooling effects of the bathe, the feet of my companion
were so much swollen, owing to previous
fatigue, that with all his tugging he could not
pull on his boots again; fortunately mine were
old and easy, so we readily effected an exchange,
and then followed the road across a high mountain,
from whose summit we saw the division
bivouacked to the right of the broad and well-paved
road (near Lecumberri) which leads from
Pampeluna to Tolosa; from this position we
could march to either of those places, being half-way
between them; here the division awaited
the return of its scouts the whole of the following
day.


The French army being completely worn out,
and having suffered terribly in killed and wounded,
continued to retreat during the 31st, followed by
the five victorious divisions of the British in three
columns, by the roads of Roncesvalles, Maya, and
Donna Maria. On the evening of the same day,
although obliquely to the rear of the pursuing
columns, we received orders, if possible, to overtake315
the enemy, and attack them wherever they
might be found. Accordingly, in the middle of
the night we got under arms and began our march.
Towards the middle of the following day, (the 1st
of August), having already marched twenty-four
miles, we descended into a deep valley between
Ituren and Elgoriaga, where the division drew up
in column to reconnoitre the right flank of the
enemy, who were still hovering in the neighbourhood
of San Estevan. After an hour's halt, we
continued our movement on the left of the Bidassoa,
and for three hours ascended, or rather
clambered, the rugged asperities of a prodigious
mountain, the by-path of which was composed of
overlapping slabs of rock, or stepping-stones. At
four o'clock in the afternoon a flying dust was
descried, glistening with the bright and vivid
flashes of small-arms, to the right of the Bidassoa,
and in the valley of Lerin. A cry was
instantly set up "the enemy!" the worn soldiers
raised their bent heads covered with dust and
sweat: we had nearly reached the summit of this
tremendous mountain, but nature was quite exhausted;
many of the soldiers lagged behind,
having accomplished more than thirty miles over
the rocky roads intersected with loose stones;
many fell heavily on the naked rocks, frothing at316
the mouth, black in the face, and struggling in
their last agonies; whilst others, unable to drag
one leg after the other, leaned on the muzzles
of their firelocks, looking pictures of despair, and
muttering, in disconsolate accents, that they had
never "fallen out" before.


The sun was shining in full vigour, but fortunately
numerous clear streams bubbled from the
cavities and fissures of the rocks, (which were
clothed in many places by beautiful evergreens,)
and allayed the burning thirst of the fainting
men. The hard work of an infantry soldier at
times is beyond all calculation, and death, by the
road-side, frequently puts an end to his sufferings,—but
what description can equal such an exit?


At seven in the evening, the division having
been in march nineteen hours, and accomplished
nearly forty miles, it was found absolutely necessary
to halt the second brigade near Aranaz,
as a rallying point. Being now parallel with the
enemy, and some hours a-head of the vanguard
leading the left column of our army, our right
brigade still hobbled onwards; at twilight we
overlooked the enemy within stone's throw, and
from the summit of a tremendous precipice: the
river separated us; but the French were wedged
in a narrow road, with inaccessible rocks enclosing317
them on one side, and the river on the other:
such confusion took place amongst them as is
impossible to describe; the wounded were thrown
down during the rush, and trampled upon, and
their cavalry drew their swords, and endeavoured
to charge up the pass of Echalar, (the only
opening on their right flank,) but the infantry
beat them back, and several of them, horses and
all, were precipitated into the river; others fired
vertically at us, whilst the wounded called out for
quarter, and pointed to their numerous soldiers,
supported on the shoulders of their comrades in
bearers, composed of branches of trees, to which
were suspended great coats, clotted with gore,
or blood-stained sheets, taken from various habitations,
to carry off their wounded, on whom we
did not fire.


Our attention was soon called from this melancholy
spectacle to support the rifle corps,63 while
they repulsed the enemy, who had crossed over
the bridge of Yanzi to attack us, to enable the
tail of their column to get off. Night closed on
us, and the firing ceased; but, owing to our318
seizing the bridge, we cut off the whole of their
baggage, which fell into the hands of the column
of our army following from St. Estevan.


In this way ended the most trying day's march
I ever remember. On the following morning,
soon after daylight, we filed across the bridge of
Yanzi, held by our pickets, and detached a small
force to guard the road towards Echalar, until
the troops came up from the direction of San
Estevan, which had hung on the enemy's rear for
the then three previous days. Continuing our
march, we once more debouched by the defile
opposite Bera, where the French sentinels were
still posted, as if rooted to the rocks on which
they were stationed the day we had taken our
departure.


As soon as the second brigade came up, we
again ascended the heights of Santa Barbara,
where we found a French corporal, with a broken
leg, his head resting on a hairy knapsack, and
supported in the arms of a comrade, who generously
remained behind to protect the life of his
friend from the cuchillo of the Spaniards. As
soon as he had delivered him to the care of the
English soldiers, he embraced the corporal, saying,
"Au revoir, bon camarade Anglais," and,
throwing his musket over his shoulder, with the319
butt-end en l'air, he descended the mountain to
rejoin the French army on the opposite range of
heights. Of course, no one offered to molest
this simple soldat, who easily effected his escape.
As our picquets could not enter the valley until
our right was cleared, and the enemy pushed from
the mountain of Echalar, as soon as another
division attacked those heights, the 1st rifles
moved on and clambered the mountain of St. Bernard,
supported by five companies of our regiment.
The soldiers had been for two days without
any sustenance, and were so weak that they
could hardly stand; however, an excellent commissary
had managed to overtake us, and hastily
served out half-a-pound of biscuit to each individual,
which the soldiery devoured while in the
act of priming and loading as they moved on to
the attack.


The summit of the mountain was wrapped in
a dense fog: an invisible firing commenced, and
it was impossible to ascertain which party was
getting the best of the fight; the combatants
were literally contending in the clouds. When
half-way up the side of the mountain, we found
a soldier of the rifles lying on his face, and bleeding
so copiously that his havresack was dyed
in blood: we turned him over, and, being somewhat320
recovered before he was carried off, he told
us, in broken monosyllables, that three Frenchmen
had mistaken him for a Portuguese, laid hold
of him, thrust a bayonet through his thigh, smashed
the stock of his rifle, and then pushed him
from off the ledge of the precipice under which
we discovered him.


The second French light infantry were dislodged,
before twilight, from the top of this
mountain; but the sparkling flashes of small-arms
continued after dark to wreath, with a crown
of fire, the summits of the various rocks about
Echalar.


Thus, after a series of difficult marches, amongst
a chaotic jumble of sterile mountains, the enemy
were totally discomfited, with an enormous loss,
by a series of the most extraordinary and brilliant
efforts that had been made during the Peninsular
War. For three days the French indeed had the
vantage ground, owing to their superiority of numbers
at a given point; but on the fourth day, the
same divisions which had so heroically fought while
falling back, sustained, with their backs to a hostile
fortress, (whence the enemy sortied during
the battle,) a most desperate assault made by the
Duke of Dalmatia, over whom the Marquis of
Wellington gained a memorable victory, and321
ceased not in turn to pursue the French marshal,
until he was glad to seek shelter from whence he
came. The standards of Britain again waved
aloft, and flapped in the gentle breeze over the
fertile fields of France.




59 Pampeluna is about thirty-five miles from the extremity of
the principal pass at Roncesvalles, forty-five from that of Aretesque,
in front of Maya, and fifty miles from the pass of Bera;
all these points it was necessary to occupy on the right of the
Bidassoa; which clearly demonstrates the advantage the enemy
possessed by attacking principally at Roncesvalles.


60 It was a frequent custom, when in want of a guide, to
employ a peasant, who received a dollar at the end of his day's
journey. These Pizanos, being accustomed to pastoral lives,
were well acquainted with every inch of ground or by-path for
leagues around their habitations, as well as the various fords
across rivers and tributary streams, the depth of which depends
on the season of the year, or the quantity of rain that might
happen to fall at uncertain periods on these mountains.


61 On the 29th, at the end of four days' fighting, both Marshals
desisted from hostilities in front of Pampeluna. The
French employed themselves in edging off to their right to
assist the Count d'Erlon, who had followed the march of General
Hill by Lanz. The Marquis of Wellington, on the other hand,
was drawing in the seventh division to insure a communication
with General Hill, and also watching his adversary's movements,
to take advantage of what might accrue on the morrow.


62 This firing was near Lizasso, where the enemy endeavoured
to turn General Hill's left flank by the road to Buenzu, and
while the Count d'Erlon was striving to execute this movement,
the light division, unknowingly, were marching on his right
flank: however, the General-in-chief being still in position in
front of Pampeluna, finding that the Duke of Dalmatia had
weakened his left and centre, to support the Count d'Erlon, immediately
countermanœuvred, and attacked the right of his opponent
with the sixth and seventh divisions, under Lord Dalhousie,
and the left with the third division, and then pierced the centre of
the enemy with the fourth division and General Byng's brigade
of the second division, and thus before sunset pushed back the
enemy beyond Olacque. By this attack the left flank of the
Count d'Erlon became uncovered, which obliged him to fall back
during the night, towards the pass of Donna Maria, to avoid
falling into the snare originally intended for his adversary.


63 One of the first I saw wounded was Capt. Perceval, of the
rifle corps. "Well," said he, "I am a lucky fellow, with one
arm maimed and useless by my side from an old wound, and
now unable to use the other."




END OF VOL. I.


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Transcriber's Note:


Footnotes placed at end of respective chapter.


Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. Variations
in hyphenation have been standardised but all other spelling and
punctuation remains unchanged.