The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Anglo-Egyptian Sudan: a compendium prepared by officers of the Sudan government, Vol. 2 (of 2) This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this ebook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this eBook. Title: The Anglo-Egyptian Sudan: a compendium prepared by officers of the Sudan government, Vol. 2 (of 2) Author: Sudan. Wizarat al-Naql wa-al-Muwasalat Editor: Lord Edward Gleichen Release date: October 15, 2024 [eBook #74585] Language: English Original publication: London: His Majesty's Stationery Office, 1905 Credits: Galo Flordelis (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/University of Pretoria) *** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ANGLO-EGYPTIAN SUDAN: A COMPENDIUM PREPARED BY OFFICERS OF THE SUDAN GOVERNMENT, VOL. 2 (OF 2) *** [_All rights reserved._ =THE ANGLO-EGYPTIAN SUDAN:= =A COMPENDIUM PREPARED BY OFFICERS OF THE SUDAN GOVERNMENT.= EDITED BY LIEUT.-COLONEL COUNT GLEICHEN, C.V.O., C.M.G., D.S.O. (_Late Director of Intelligence, Sudan Government and Egyptian Army, and Sudan Agent, Cairo._) * * * * * =VOLUME II.= (ROUTES.) * * * * * LONDON: PRINTED FOR HIS MAJESTY’S STATIONERY OFFICE, BY HARRISON AND SONS, ST. MARTIN’S LANE, PRINTERS IN ORDINARY TO HIS MAJESTY. * * * * * And to be purchased, either directly or through any Bookseller, from WYMAN AND SONS, LTD., FETTER LANE E.C.; or OLIVER & BOYD, EDINBURGH; or E. PONSONBY, 116, GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN. * * * * * 1905. _Price Seven Shillings and Sixpence._ (Wt. 8207 1000 9 | 05—H & S 3874) EDITORIAL NOTE TO VOLUME II. * * * * * The Routes in this Volume have been arranged according to the Chapters in Vol. I. Additional matter is given in the shape of an Appendix, describing the main Routes leading out of the Sudan. Almost the whole Volume has been edited by Captain H. H. S. Morant (Assistant Director of Intelligence), to whom my best thanks are due; Captain W. Lloyd is chiefly responsible for the excellent Routes in Kordofan. Intermediate places where water is to be found (except those obviously on a river) are given in italics. [It being impossible to provide a map showing even all the terminal places mentioned, intending travellers are referred to the map at the end of Vol. I, and to the Sudan Ordnance Survey Maps (scale, 1:250,000), a list of which is given in Vol. I, p. 349.] A certain number of copies of each Chapter in this Volume have been printed and bound separately in strong paper covers for practical use when travelling. Application in Egypt should be made to the Director of Intelligence, Egyptian War Office, Cairo, or to any Bookseller in Great Britain, of whom copies may be obtained, price One Shilling each. G. _Berlin, 2nd April_, 1905. =TABLE OF CONTENTS.= * * * * * VOL. II. (PART III.) (ROUTES.) * * * * * CHAPTERS I AND II. _Nil._ CHAPTER III. NORTH-EASTERN SUDAN. PAGE No. 1. — No. 6 Station to Deraheib. (_Talbot_) 1 „ 2. — Suakin to Berber — (α) Northerly route. (_Sparkes_) 5 (β) Southerly „ „ 9 „ 3. — Berber to Kassala. (_Various_) 12 „ 4. — Suakin to Tokar. (_Various_) 14 „ 5. — Trinkitat to Tokar. (_Bower_) 15 „ 6. — Suakin to Erkowit — (α) _viâ_ Tamaneb and K. Arab. (_Powell_) 16 (β) _viâ_ Kolkalai Pass. (_Powell_) 16 „ 7. — Erkowit to Sinkat — (α) _viâ_ Baramil Plains. (_Powell_) 17 (β) _viâ_ K. Gebet. (_Powell_) 17 „ 8. — Kassala to Suakin, _viâ_ Filik and Maman. (_Mitford_) 18 „ 9. — Tokar to Kassala, _viâ_ K. Baraka. (_Various_) 22 „ 10. — Kassala to Maman direct. (_Morant_) 26 „ 11. — Adarama to Bir Oshi (K. Langeb). (_Kenrick_) 27 „ 12. — El Getite to Adarama. (_Kenrick_) 29 „ 13. — Umbrega to Sofi. (_Morant_) 30 N.B.—Other routes which apply to this chapter are:— No. 123. — Aswan to Deraheib. (Appendix) 195 „ 19. — Gedaref to Kassala. (Chap. IV) 41 „ 14. — Khartoum N. to Kassala. (Chap. IV) 32 „ 124. — Kassala to Massaua. (Appendix) 196 „ 125. — Takarashorit to Umbrega. (Appendix) 200 CHAPTER IV. EASTERN SUDAN. No. 14. — Khartoum N. to Kassala, _viâ_ Geili, Rera and Asubri. (_Talbot_, _Boulnois_ and _Morant_) 32 „ 15. — Goz Regeb to Shendi, _viâ_ Abu Deleig. (_Boulnois_) 36 „ 16. — El Damer to Fasher. (_Bulkeley Johnson_) 36 „ 17. — Khartoum N. to Abu Deleig. (_Native information_) 39 „ 18. — Rufaa to Geili. (_Talbot_) 40 „ 19. — Gedaref to Kassala. (_Mitford_ and _Morant_) 41 „ 20. — „ Gallabat. (_Collinson_ and _Morant_) 43 „ 21. — Abu Haraz to Gedaref. (_Mitford_) 45 „ 22. — Gedaref, _viâ_ Hawata, to Abu Haraz. (_Bulkeley 47 Johnson_) „ 23. — Sofi _viâ_ Abu Gulud to Seraf Said. (_Smith_) 48 „ 24. — Famaka to Abu Ramla. (_Gwynn_) 49 „ 25. — Karkoj to Hawata. (_Bonham Carter_) 50 „ 26. — Roseires to Abu Shaneina. (_Gwynn_) 50 „ 27. — Senga, _viâ_ Durraba, to Um El Rug. (_Amery_) 51 „ 28. — Mouth of Khor Gelagu (Dinder) to Gallabat. (_Amery_) 52 „ 29. — Gallabat to Wad Medani, _viâ_ R. Rahad. (_Lewin_) 53 „ 30. — Itinerary of Blue Nile. (_Amery_) 57 N.B.—Other routes which apply to this chapter are:— No. 126. — Gallabat to Chelga. (Appendix) 202 „ 127. — Lake Tsana (Goja) to Gandoa. (Appendix) 204 „ 128. — Addis Abbaba to Gallabat. (Appendix) 206 „ 130. — Roseires to Dunkur. (Appendix) 215 „ 131. — Dunkur to Gallabat. (Appendix) 217 CHAPTER V. CENTRAL SUDAN. No. 31. — Khartoum to Wad Medani, Sennar, Senga and Karkoj (L. B. Blue Nile). (_Compiled_) 61 „ 32. — Khartoum to Goz Abu Guma and Jebelein, _viâ_ R. B. White Nile. (_Conolly, Boulnois_) 63 „ 33. — „ Gule, _viâ_ Managil and Segadi. (_Morant_) 66 „ 34. — Managil to Sennar. (_Smyth_) 70 „ 35. — Keili, _viâ_ Gule, to Senga. (_Gorringe_) 70 „ 36. — Senga to Jerok, _viâ_ K. Ofat. (_Roberts_) 71 „ 37. — Roseires to Keili, _viâ_ Gule. (_Smith_) 73 „ 38. — Fazogli to Gezan. (_Jackson_) 73 „ 39. — Gezan to Kurmuk. (_Gwynn_) 75 „ 40. — Gule to Renk. (_Morant_) 75 „ 41. — Jebelein to Renk. (_Wilson_) 76 „ 42. — Renk to Kaka Old Wood Station. (_Morant_) 77 „ 43. — „ Kodok (R. B.) partly along Telegraph line. (_Wilson_) 79 „ 44. — J. Ahmed Agha to Awitong and Kash-Kash. (_Wilson_) 82 „ 45. — Itinerary up Khor Adar. (_Wilson_) 83 „ 46. — J. Jerok to Wad Deluka (52 miles S.E. of Melut). (_Smith_) 84 „ 47. — Uryong (Sobat) to opposite Kodok. (_Gwynn_) 85 N.B.—Other routes which apply to this chapter are:— No. 133. — Kirin to Kodok. (Appendix) 222 „ 132. — Fazogli to Kirin. (Appendix) 218 „ 129. — Addis Abbaba to Famaka. (Appendix) 210 CHAPTER VI. SOUTH-EASTERN SUDAN. No. 48. — Nasser to Uryong. (_Gwynn_) 87 „ 49. — Gokjak to Keik (Khor Filus). (_Wilson_) 88 „ 50. — Itinerary up the Bahr El Zeraf. (_Stanton_) 90 N.B.—Other routes which apply to this chapter are:— No. 47. — Uryong to opposite Kodok. (Chapter V) 85 „ 134. — K. Bosuk, _viâ_ K. Eine, to Goha. (Appendix) 225 „ 135. — Goha, _viâ_ K. Barsu, to Bosuk. (Appendix) 225 „ 136. — Camp (K. Bosuk) to Asosa. (Appendix) 226 „ 137. — Asosa to K. Bosuk, _viâ_ K. Surgalla. (Appendix) 227 „ 138. — Gore to Abwong. (Appendix) 227 CHAPTER VII. BAHR EL GHAZAL. No. 51. — Meshra el Rek to Tonj. (_Lloyd_) 93 „ 52. — Wau to Meshra el Rek. (_Lloyd_) 94 „ 53. — Tonj Post to Wau. (_Lloyd_) 95 „ 54. — Tonj Post to Rikta’s Village. (_Lloyd_) 97 „ 55. — Wau to Tembura. (_Bethel_) 99 „ 56. — Wau to Deim Zubeir. (_Boulnois_ and _Sparkes_) 100 „ 57. — Chak Chak to Deim Zubeir. (_Fell_) 101 „ 58. — Deim Zubeir to Kossinga. (_Boulnois_) 102 „ 59. — Kossinga to Wau. (_Boulnois_) 103 „ 60. — „ Hofrat el Nahas. (_Sparkes_) 104 „ 61. — Ragaa to Deim Zubeir. (_Sparkes_) 105 „ 62. — Kojali to Tonj. (_Sparkes_) 106 „ 63. — Tonj to Rumbek. (_Armstrong_) 107 „ 64. — Rumbek to Shambe. (_Armstrong_) 108 „ 65. — Rumbek to Darago’s and M’volo. (_Wood_) 109 „ 66. — M’volo to Kiro. (_Sparkes_) 109 „ 67. — Rumbek to Awodi. (_Armstrong_) 111 „ 68. — „ Mangi’s. (_Boardman_) 113 N.B.—Another route which applies to this chapter is:— No. 101. — El Obeid to Dar El Jange. (Chapter VIII) 151 CHAPTER VIII. KORDOFAN. No. 69. — Sheikh Sadik to Homra. (_Various_) 117 „ 70. — El Dueim to Homra. (_Various_) 117 „ 71. — Homra to El Obeid, _viâ_ Bara. (_Various_) 118 „ 72. — El Dueim to Obeid, _viâ_ Hashaba. (_Lloyd_ and _More_) 119 „ 73. — Gedid to El Dueim, _viâ_ Um Deisis. (_Lloyd_ and _Talbot_) 120 „ 74. — Shat Wells to El Obeid, _viâ_ J. Kon. (_Talbot_ and _Lloyd_) 120 „ 75. — Shawal to Gedid, Dar El Ahamda and Tagale. (_Morant_) 122 „ 76. — Goz Abu Guma to Dar El Ahamda. (_Morant_) 124 „ 77. — „ „ El Obeid, _viâ_ Sherkeila and Rahad. (_Leveson_) 125 „ 78. — Gedid to El Rahad. (_Lloyd_) 126 „ 79. — Kaka to opposite Jebelein. (_Wilson_) 127 „ 80. — Omdurman to El Safia Wells. (_Smyth_) 129 „ 81. — Debba to El Obeid, _viâ_ Safia. (_Currie_) 130 „ 82. — Shegeig to El Showa, _viâ_ Kagmar. (_Lloyd_) 131 „ 83. — Bara to Kagmar. (_Lloyd_) 132 „ 84. — El Obeid to Foga, _viâ_ Masrub. (_Lloyd_) 133 „ 85. — „ „ _viâ_ Gleit, etc. (_Carter_) 134 „ 86. — Abu Agaga to Bara. (_O’Connell_) 135 „ 87. — Foga to Kaja (Bir Soderi). (_Mahon_) 136 „ 88. — Nahud to El Fasher. (_Carter_) 137 „ 89. — „ Bur Islam. (_Townsend_) 137 „ 90. — „ Foga. (_Lloyd_ and _Wilkinson_) 138 „ 91. — Foga to Um Badr. (_Wilkinson_) 139 „ 92. — Bara to Foga. (_O’Connell_) 140 „ 93. — Nahud to El Eddaiya and Muglad. (_Mahon_) 141 „ 94. — Foga to El Eddaiya, _viâ_ Kaja Serrug. (_Carter_) 142 „ 95. — El Obeid to Nahud (direct). (_Meyricke_) 143 „ 96. — „ „ _viâ_ Abu Zabbat. (_Lloyd_ and _Townsend_) 144 „ 97. — „ El Eddaiya, _viâ_ Sungikai. (_Lloyd_ and _Townsend_) 145 „ 98. — „ Keraia (J. Tagale), _viâ_ J. Daier. (_Various_) 146 „ 99. — Keraia to Rashad and Gedir. (_Various_) 148 „ 100. — Kaka to Gedir. (_Mahon_) 148 „ 101. — El Obeid to Dar El Jange. (_Wilkinson_) 151 „ 102. — River Kir to Fauwel. (_Wilkinson_) 156 „ 103. — El Obeid to Sungikai, _viâ_ El Atshan. (_Lyall_) 157 „ 104. — Dilling to El Obeid, _viâ_ Sungikai, etc. (_Lyall_) 157 „ 105. — Routes in Dar Nuba. (_Leveson_) 158 CHAPTER IX. NORTH-WESTERN SUDAN. No. 106. — Selima to Nile, opposite Kosha. (_Hodgson_) 167 „ 107. — Dongola to Lagia El Kebir. (_Hodgson_) 167 „ 108. — „ Bir Sultan. (_Hodgson_) 169 „ 109. — Debba to El Obeid. (_Compiled_) 171 „ 110. — „ Omdurman. (_Ravenscroft_) 172 „ 111. — „ „ _viâ_ Elai. (_Compiled_) 174 „ 112. — Ambugol or Korti to Metemma. (_Compiled_) 174 „ 113. — Korti to Bayuda and Sedeiri. (_Bunbury_ and _Sudley_) 178 „ 114. — Merowe to Jakdul. (_Talbot_) 179 „ 115. — „ Berber. (_Smyth_ and _Friend_) 181 „ 116. — Sani to El Zuma, _viâ_ Jura. (_Henry_) 181 „ 117. — Jura to Kirbekan. (_Henry_) 182 „ 118. — Omdurman to Gabra. (_Talbot_) 183 „ 119. — Gabra to Korti. (_Talbot_) 184 „ 120. — Korti to Bayuda Wells. (_Talbot_) 186 „ 121. — Bayuda Wells to Tangasi. (_Talbot_) 187 N.B.—Other routes which apply to this chapter are:— No. 81. — Debba to El Obeid, _viâ_ Safia. (Chapter VIII) 130 „ 122. — Arbain Road. (Appendix) 189 APPENDIX. ROUTES PARTLY OUTSIDE THE SUDAN. No. 122. — The Arbain Road. (_Various_) 189 „ 123. — Aswan to Deraheib. (_Bramly_) 195 „ 124. — Kassala to Massaua. (_Morant_) 196 „ 125. — Takarashorit (K. Gash) to Umbrega (Setit). (_Morant_) 200 „ 126. — Gallabat to Chelga. (_Parker_) 202 „ 127. — Lake Tsana (Goja) to Gandoa. (_Parker_) 204 „ 128. — Addis Abbaba, _viâ_ Gojjam and L. Tsana, to Gallabat. (_Baird_) 206 „ 129. — „ to Famaka. (_Gwynn_) 210 „ 130. — Roseires to Abu Ramla and Dunkur. (_Gwynn_) 215 „ 131. — Dunkur to Gallabat. (_Gwynn_) 217 „ 132. — Fazogli to Kirin. (_Jackson_) 218 „ 133. — Kirin to Kodok. (_Gwynn_) 222 „ 134. — K. Bosuk, _viâ_ K. Eine, to Goha. (_Smith_) 225 „ 135. — Goha, _viâ_ K. Barsu, to Bosuk. (_Smith_) 225 „ 136. — Camp (K. Bosuk) to Asosa. (_Smith_) 226 „ 137. — Asosa to K. Bosuk, _viâ_ Surgalla. (_Smith_) 227 „ 138. — Gore to Abwong. (_Wilson_) 227 „ 139. — Gondokoro to Uganda. (_Dugmore_) 231 „ 140. — Roads in the Lado Enclave. (_Various_) 236 =PART III.= =ROUTES.= * * * * * CHAPTERS I. AND II. (_Nil._) CHAPTER III. (NORTH-EASTERN SUDAN.) * * * * * 1.—NO. 6 STATION (S.G.R.) TO DERAHEIB. BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT, R.E., DECEMBER, 1902. [Sidenote: General.] The road described below is only one of several that might have been taken, but I believe it is perhaps the most direct. The portions between No. 6 and Murrat, and along the Wadi Alagi must be common to all routes. [Sidenote: Nature of road.] There are no gradients on the road sufficiently steep to form a serious obstacle to laden camels, but there are a good many places after the Wadi Abu Bard is left, where the stony nature of the road is trying for the feet of plains camels, though the camels of the country seem to make nothing of it. [Sidenote: Water.] Water is scarce and not always good. If marching with hamla,[1] arrangements should be made to carry at least two nights’ water. [Sidenote: Fuel and shade.] Once the W. Telat Abda has been reached, fuel and shade can always be obtained with very little management. Till then there is practically no shade. No fuel between No. 6 and Murrat; a little between Murrat and W. Telat Abda. [Sidenote: Grain.] No grain is obtainable. Sheep and goats and some milk can be obtained wherever Arabs are met with. The position of the Arabs and their flocks depends on the season of the year, and the distribution of the previous year’s rainfall. ---------+---------------+---------------+---------------------------- | Hamda Hours. | Miles. | Place. +--------+------+--------+------+ Description. | Inter- |Total.| Inter- |Total.| |mediate.| |mediate.| | ---------+--------+------+--------+------+---------------------------- _No. 6 | — | — | — | — |No. 6 Station on Halfa- Station | | | | |Khartoum Railway, 127 miles (S.G.R.)_| | | | |from Halfa, and 1,555 feet | | | | |above sea level. | | | | | | | | | |British foreman. Telegraph | | | | |office. | | | | | | | | | |No station buildings nor | | | | |accommodation for persons | | | | |detained there. | | | | | | | | | |Well with steam pump gives | | | | |12,000 gallons daily. Water | | | | |contains some salts, but | | | | |drinkable. Nile water can be | | | | |obtained for small parties | | | | |from station supply. Some | | | | |“selem” bushes give firewood | | | | |and a little grazing for | | | | |camels. No inhabitants | | | | |except railway staff. No | | | | |supplies. | | | | | | | | | |Is the base of the staff of | | | | |the Egypt and Sudan Mining | | | | |Syndicate now developing Um | | | | |Nabari or Nabadi mine. | | | | | | | | | |The track, now pretty well | | | | |marked, makes straight for | | | | |the N. end of J. Keheli, | | | | |after rounding which it | | | | |makes for J. Mindara, | | | | |keeping a couple of miles to | | | | |the N. of it. Road | | | | |practically level and mostly | | | | |good trotting surface, | | | | |though sand a little heavy | 7 | 7 | — | — |in places. | | | | | | 3¼ | 10¼ | — | — |Road crosses a low saddle | | | | |and descends into one of the | | | | |branches of the Wadi Murrat, | | | | |amongst a lot of low tangled | | | | |hills. After following the | | | | |wadi for 300 yards or so, | | | | |another saddle is crossed to | | | | |cut off a bend, after which | | | | |the wadi is followed till it | | | | |joins the main wadi, just | | | | |before the fort of Murrat is | | | | |reached. | | | | | _Murrat_ | 1 | 11¼ | — | 34 |The engineer of the Egypt | | | | |and Sudan Mining Syndicate | | | | |has fitted a pump in one of | | | | |the wells in the wadi, which | | | | |gives cleaner, though not | | | | |less bitter water than | | | | |before. The Arabs and | | | | |Berberi servants drink it | | | | |uncomplainingly, but | | | | |Europeans are advised to | | | | |avoid it if they can. About | | | | |10 miles slightly N. of W. | | | | |up the main Wadi Murrat is | | | | |the site of the Um Nabari or | | | | |Nabadi mine, now being | | | | |developed by the Company. | | | | |Road quite easy along the | | | | |wadi. | | | | | | | | 1½ | 35½ |On leaving Murrat fort the | | | | |track keeps down the wadi | 1 | 12¼ | 1½ | 37 |for 1½ miles, then turns off | | | | |to the left over somewhat | | | | |stony ground, and, crossing | | | | |a saddle and the head of | | | | |another affluent of the Wadi | 1¾ | 14 | 4 | 41 |Murrat about 1½ miles | | | | |further on, descends easily | | | | |into the basin of the Wadi | | | | |Dayob. Across slightly | | | | |undulating ground, aiming | | | ½ | 41½ |just to the left of J. Abu | | | | |Dayob, a rocky sand-covered | | | | |hill (with a pillar on the | | | | |top) which, though only 200 | | | | |or 300 feet high, stands up | | | | |well amidst its | | | | |surroundings, and turns down | | | | |the wadi past its northern | | | | |foot. | | | | | | ½ | 14½ | ½ | 42 |Along the wadi passing a | | | | |gorge about 50 yards wide; | | | | |wadi then turns rather to | | | | |S.E. There is some camel | | | | |grazing here. | | | | | | | | | |Road now turns to left out | | | | |of wadi, and, after crossing | | | | |low ridges for about one | | | | |hour and passing near some | 1 | 15½ | — | — |“selem” bushes in one of the | | | | |wadis, enters a plain ½ to 1 | | | | |mile broad, and heads | | | | |generally for J. Kerar | | | | |Berar. | | | | | | ½ | 16 | 3¾ | 45¾ |Half-a-mile further on J. | | | | |Mosiai (pillar on top) is at | | | | |right angles about 1 to 2 | | | | |miles distant on left. | | | | | | 1½ | 17½ | — | — |Track leaves plain over low | | | | |ridges and descends by | 1 | 18½ | — | — |gentle slope obliquely to | | | | |Wadi Mosiai. There are a few | 1¾ | 20¼ | — | — |of the peculiar dom palms of | | | | |the country above where wadi | | | | |is struck, and a little | | | | |“selem” and some scrubby | | | | |plants below. Track keeps | | | | |down wadi generally, till it | | | | |gets well clear of the low | | | | |hills, when it turns half | | | | |left over open plain, good | | | | |going, and passes an | | | | |isolated patch of “selem” | | | | |bushes in Gabgaba. | | | | | W. | 2 | 22¼ | 16 | 61¾ |The bed of the Gabgaba is ¾ Gabgaba | | | | |to 1½ miles wide in places, | | | | |consisting of several | | | | |channels separated by flat | | | | |gravel. The bed itself is | | | | |sandy, honeycombed with rat | | | | |holes, and very bad going. | | | | |Immense quantities of the | | | | |“handal” plant grow in it, | | | | |and in years of good | | | | |rainfall dura is cultivated. | | | | | | | | | |Track, leaving the wadi half | | | | |right, keeps over a gravel | | | | |plain with gentle slopes | | | | |till it strikes the W. Telat | | | | |Abda just outside the low | 2¼ | 24½ | 6 | 67¾ |hills. | | | | | | | | | |There is plenty of “selem” | | | | |in the wadi, giving good | | | | |camel grazing and abundance | | | | |of firewood. | | | | | _Bir | 3 | 27½ | 8¼ | 76 |Track keeps up wadi, Telat | | | | |occasionally making short Abda_ | | | | |cuts to right to get better | | | | |going, as wadi is heavy in | | | | |places, to well at foot of | | | | |rather higher hill on left | | | | |bank which has two stone | | | | |pillars. | | | | | | | | | |The well gives good water, | | | | |but not very much of it. | | | | |About ¼ mile higher up under | | | | |the right bank where the | | | | |wadi forks is another well | | | | |generally used for watering | | | | |camels. From here the roads | | | | |to Abu Tabag and Naba | | | | |branch. That to Naba keeps | | | | |straight on, that is up the | | | | |right-hand branch of the | | | | |fork. Naba is about 17 miles | | | | |from Telat Abda, whence it | | | | |draws its drinking water. | | | | |Near Telat Abda well is a | | | | |sayal tree that gives good | | | | |shade. | | | | | | | | | |The track starts up the Khor | | | | |Liseiwi, or left-hand branch | | | | |of the fork, past the upper | | | | |well, but soon turns to | | | | |right from it to cut off a | | | | |corner, and drops into the | | | | |khor again at a water hole | | | | |(generally dry) under Jebel _J. | 3 | 30½ | 6 | 82 |Liseiwi (marked by a Liseiwi_ | | | | |pillar). | | | | | W. | 2 | 32½ | 6 | 88 |Keeps up khor and, crossing Abaraga | | | | |a low saddle, descends into | | | | |Wadi Abaraga. | | | | | | ¼ | 32¾ | ¾ | 88¾ |Keeps up wadi, which is well | | | | |wooded with selem, sayal and | | | | |the single-stemmed fan palm | | | | |(_Medemia argun_), and | ½ | 33¼ | 1½ | 90¼ |passes some wells close | | | | |under left bank. The wadi | | | | |flows through very broken | | | | |low hills, 200 to 400 feet | | | | |high. | | | | | | 1¼ | 34½ | 3½ | 93¾ |Track issues on to open | | | | |space where the hills recede | | | | |and wadis come in from all | | | | |directions. | | | | | | — | — | 4 | 97¾ |Track now turns N.E., | | | | |passing between some low | | | | |hills over gravelly plain, | — | — | 4¼ | 102 |and turns S.E. up wadi, now | | | | |confined between rounded | | | | |reddish hills. The palms | | | | |have now ceased, but selem | | | | |is still found. The hills | | | | |soon get lower and wadi less | | | | |confined. | | | | | | — | — | 4½ | 106½ |A track from Hesmet Omar. | | | | | | — | — | 2¼ | 108¾ |Saddle at head of Wadi | | | | |Abaraga is reached, easy | | | | |ascent and descent commenced | | | | |over gently sloping gravel Wadi Abu | 7¾ | 42¼ | 2¼ | 111 |to the Wadi Abu Bard which Bard | | | | |flows through an open valley | | | | |2 to 3 miles wide. Plenty of | | | | |wood in wadi. | | | | | | — | — | 2 | 113 |The same direction is | | | | |continued across the wadi | — | — | 3½ | 116½ |till a low saddle is | | | | |crossed, and track descends | | | | |a branch of Abu Bard for a | | | | |little more than a mile; | | | | |then across an open space | | | | |N.E. up an affluent of the | | | | |same branch till it crosses | | | | |a low saddle at its head and | | | | |descends into an affluent of | | | | |the Wadi Hesmet Omar. This | | | | |part is very stony and | | | | |severe on plains camels, | | | | |though the gradients are not | | | | |heavy. The track keeps down | | | | |the valley, crossing a | | | | |couple of affluents bounded | | | | |by low hills, till it | | | | |reaches another low, but | | | | |stony saddle, whence it | | | | |descends into and crosses an | | | | |affluent of the Wadi Abu | | | | |Tabag or Wadi Ga; after | — | — | 5 | 121½ |another 2 miles of stony | | | | |ground the track descends | — | — | 2 | 123½ |into another branch of the | | | | |Abu Tabag wadi, which it _Abu | 5½ | 47¾ | 2 | 125½ |follows till it reaches the Tabag_ | | | | |well. | | | | | | | | | |The valley opens out a bit | | | | |here, though immediately | | | | |over the well there are low | | | | |hills which still carry the | | | | |breastworks erected by | | | | |Beshir Bey’s men as a | | | | |protection against | | | | |dervishes. | | | | | | | | | |The well is about 20 feet | | | | |deep, of which the lower 12 | | | | |feet, is revetted with | | | | |stone. Plenty of water. Many | | | | |small partridges. | | | | | | | | | |An Inspector’s rest house | | | | |has been built here. Some | | | | |fine sayal trees. | | | | | | | | | |There are a number of dom | | | | |palms trying to come up, but | | | | |none have succeeded in | | | | |showing any trunk yet. | | | | | | | | | |The wadi here is, I believe, | | | | |called the Wadi Ga, but I am | | | | |not sure. | | | | | Wadi Ga | — | — | 2 | 127½ |The track continues down the | | | | |wadi for 2 miles and turns | | | | |off to the left over flat | | | | |and undulating ground; easy | | | | |going for some miles, the | 4¼ | 52 | 10 | 137½ |general direction being a | | | | |little to the left of J. | | | | |Kirmai, crosses the Wadi Ga | | | | |(plenty of selem) and cuts | | | | |over a low saddle at the | | | | |north end of Kirmai. | | | | | Wadi Abu | — | — | 2 | 139½ |After about 2 more miles, Kitabab | | | | |heavy going, over sand- | | | | |covered ridges the track | | | | |descends into the Wadi Abu | | | | |Kitabab, which joins the | | | | |Wadi Ga about 1½ miles below | | | | |where the track crosses it. | | | | |There are plenty of trees of | | | | |several different sorts. | | | | | | 2 | 54 | 3 | 142½ |Road continues up wadi for 3 | | | | |miles to a point where it | | | | |forks. | | | | | | | | | |The southern branch is also | | | | |called Abu Kitabab. The | | | | |track to Sohanit and Onib, | | | | |viâ _Mashushenai well_ (very | | | | |little water), ascends it. | | | | |The other branch is called | | | | |Ebeirid. After ascending it | — | — | 4 | 146½ |for 4 miles, low saddle is | | | | |crossed; after 4½ more miles | | | | |of mostly very stony ground, | | | | |ending in a short and very Wadi | 3½ | 57½ | 4½ | 151 |rough descent, the Wadi Abdelala | | | | |Abdelala is reached. This | | | | |wadi is here well wooded. | | | | |Lots of marakh. The track | | | | |ascends it a short distance | | | | |and then turns up a side | | | | |khor, out of it to left into | | | | |another and over an easy | | | | |saddle down into Wadi Bitna | | | | |or Butna; confined bed, high | | | | |hills on right bank. | | | | | | 1½ | 59 | 4½ | 155½ |Top of Mashushenai just | | | | |visible, a few selem and a | | | | |good many samr trees. | | | | | | | | | |Track keeps down wadi, | | | | |cutting off one or two | | | | |corners, stony, but not very | | | | |bad going. The bed gets | | | | |narrower and low cliffs more | | | | |perpendicular till wells are | | | | |reached at a place where a | | | | |projecting cliff appears to | | | | |bar the passage. Just before | | | | |reaching it some tombs are _Wells_ | 1½ | 60½ | 4 | 159½ |passed. | | | | | | | | | |There are two wells or water | | | | |holes about 5 feet in | | | | |diameter, surface of water 6 | | | | |feet below bed of wadi. Lots | | | | |of good water. | | | | | | | | | |The track continues, | | | | |original direction, for | | | | |about ½ mile and then turns | | | | |E., and a mile further on | | | | |meets the Wadi Elei coming | | | | |from the S.E. The united | | | | |wadi now flows a little E. | | | | |of N., the hills diminish | | | | |and the valley increases in | | | | |width and the vegetation | | | | |decreases. After 2 miles the | | | | |track turns off to right, up | | | | |what was a good track a year | | | | |or so ago, but is now barred | | | | |by waves of sand. After some | | | | |three miles, most part of | | | | |which is very heavy going, | | | | |the track descends into the | | | | |broad and ill defined bed of | | | | |an affluent of the Wadi | 2 | 62½ | 4½ | 164 |Elei. Little grazing. | | | | | | | | | |Over bare undulating plain, | | | | |dotted with hummocky ridges | | | | |of decomposed granite more | 3½ | 66 | 10 | 174 |or less covered with sand. | | | | |Good going till a low and | | | | |easy watershed is crossed Wadi | 1¼ | 67¼ | 3 | 177 |and track descends easily to Nasari | | | | |Wadi Nasari, a broad well | | | | |wooded wadi that comes from | | | | |Jebel Sohanit, and joins the Wadi | 1½ | 68¾ | 4 | 181 |Alagi a few miles N. of Alagi | | | | |where the track strikes it. | | | | |Track crosses wadi in the | | | | |direction of Jebel Eigat | | | | |and, passing through some | | | | |low hills, reaches the Wadi | | | | |Alagi. Track quite easy. | | | | | | | | | |The Wadi Alagi here is at | | | | |least ½ mile wide, bounded | | | | |by low hills on both banks, | | | | |but rising higher behind on | | | | |the right bank. It contains | | | | |many refreshingly green | | | | |trees of several sorts, | | | | |marakh, heglig, sayal, sidr, | | | | |arak, &c. | | | | | _Wadi | 2 | 70¾ | 6 | 187 |Up wadi, which narrows to Taimurit_| | | | |about 300 to 400 yards. It | | | | |is joined on the left bank | | | | |by a khor called Taimurit, | | | | |up which there is a | | | | |waterhole, good water. On | | | | |the right bank opposite it | | | | |is a hill conspicuously | | | | |higher than the majority of | | | | |those that overhang the | | | | |wadi. | | | | | | | | | |On both banks are remains of | | | | |houses, and a quartz reef is | | | | |conspicuous on the left | | | | |bank. The latitude of | | | | |junction of Taimurit and | | | | |Alagi is 22° 1′ 11″, so | | | | |most, if not all, the reef | | | | |is north of 22°. It shows | | | | |marks of having been | | | | |prospected. | | | | | _Wadi | 1 | 71¾ | 3 | 190 |One hour further on, where Neshd_ | | | | |the wadi changes the | | | | |direction of its flow from | | | | |S.W. to N.W., some tombs | | | | |close under the right bank | | | | |are a landmark for the Wadi | | | | |Neshd, which comes in on the | | | | |left bank opposite. There is | | | | |good water in the Wadi | | | | |Neshd. | | | | | | | | | |The wadi now begins to wind | | | | |more. Two hours further on _Wadi | 2 | 73¾ | 6 | 196 |the Wadi Kamotit on right Kamotit_ | | | | |bank is passed. There is | | | | |good water a short way up | | | | |it. | | | | | Deraheib | 4¼ | 78 | 12 | 208 |The wadi now begins to | | | | |wriggle about without, | | | | |however, much decreasing in | | | | |width. The hills on either | | | | |side continue to be of no | | | | |great height, and in one or | | | | |two places the track crosses | | | | |low saddles to cut off | | | | |corners; good trees all the | | | | |way. | | | | | | | | | |At Deraheib is a ruined | | | | |castle of stone set in mud, | | | | |with two or three pointed | | | | |arches set in lime. Another | | | | |building of nearly equal | | | | |size in plan, but not so | | | | |high, and the ruins of a | | | | |number of houses and | | | | |shelters are on the left | | | | |bank. On the right bank, | | | | |nearly opposite, are a | | | | |number of ruined stone | | | | |houses arranged in streets, | | | | |and covering 3 to 4 acres. | | | | |They are built in stone and | | | | |mud, but a few arches in | | | | |lime are to be seen. The | | | | |ruins are evidently greatly | | | | |filled in and might possibly | | | | |repay excavation. There are | | | | |small stone shelters of the | | | | |same kind up various khors. _Water_ | — | — | — | — |The _nearest water_ now is 2 | | | | |or 3 miles off up a wadi | | | | |that joins the left bank of | | | | |the Alagi about 1½ miles | | | | |further up. | | | | | | | | | |The latitude of the N.W. | | | | |corner of the ruined castle | | | | |is 21° 56′ 48·5″. | | | | | | | | | |On the low hills on left | | | | |bank, within ½ mile of the | | | | |fort, are a number of shafts | | | | |sunk in the reef which is | | | | |here very apparent. In | | | | |December there were very few | | | | |Arabs in the Wadi Alagi. In | | | | |the summer there are many. | | | | | | | | | |The rate of the hamla has | | | | |been taken at 2½ to 3 miles | | | | |per hour, as, I think, my | | | | |camels went. Neither times | | | | |nor distances, therefore, | | | | |can be relied on absolutely. ---------+--------+------+--------+------+---------------------------- 2.—SUAKIN TO BERBER. [Sidenote: Roads.] There are two main routes between Suakin and Berber, both joining at Obak. The first, _viâ_ Tambuk—Dissibil—Kokreb—Ariab and Obak, the most northerly of the two, is the usual caravan route. Major Prout (1877) states that “this route is quite practicable for wagons, the greater part of it being indeed an admirable road for wheels; some difficulty would, however, be found in getting wagons over the passes of Hareitri and Kokreb, and the dunes of Obak. At these three points some work, not much, but rather expensive, would have to be done to make the route a good wagon road.” The chief difficulty lies in the arid stretch of 114 miles between Ariab and Berber, for which Obak, lying about halfway, provides the only water. The second route, _viâ_ Sinkat—Hormareb—Amet—Rowaya and Obak is 5 or 6 miles shorter, but not so well known. It is occasionally used by caravans, but although the water supply is good, the road is bad about Sinkat. (α) NORTHERLY ROUTE.[2] MAJOR W. S. SPARKES, OCTOBER, 1897, AND DECEMBER AND JANUARY, 1897-98. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Suakin | — | — |Road runs in north-westerly | | |direction alongside formation | | |level of old Suakin-Berber | | |railway. Good road, and easy going | | |through scrub, with mimosa and | | |acacia trees. Plain covered with | | |camels and flocks of goats | | |grazing. Gentle rise all way to | | |Handub. | | | _Handub Well_ | 10 | 10 |Water here practically unlimited, | | |slightly brackish; good camp | | |ground, fuel, and grazing for | | |camels. Water about 20 feet down. | | | | 3 | 13 |Track enters hills, which | | |gradually close in on either side, | | |going still good and gentle rise. | | | _Otao Well_ | 6 | 19 |Two wells here, giving good water, | | |holes in ground, could be easily | | |developed, at present sufficient | | |for two companies infantry and | | |their transport. Formation level | | |of old railway ends here. | | | _Tambuk Well_ | 5 | 24 |Good water, supply practically | | |unlimited, now three wells, would | | |be easily increased. Good camp | | |ground, fuel and grazing. Gazelle, | | |hares, partridges, and doves along | | |road, Handub and Tambuk. Water in | | |wells about 15 feet down. | | | | 2 | 26 |To here going stony and rough, | | |then through a short defile, and | | |somewhat better; trees and shrubs | | |all along. | | | Khor Ossaud | 5 | 31 |A sudden, short, sharp ascent, a | | |½-mile level, stony ground, Olip | 1 | 32 |without a shrub, and down to Khor | | |Ossaud broad khor, full of trees, | | |&c.; excellent going. | | | Khor Adit | 1 | 33 |Khor Adit, the main khor from | | |Sinkat, which is about 20 miles | | |distant, meets Khor Ossaud. Some | | |gazelles, many doves in this khor, | | |also numerous herds, goats and | | |camels grazing. Junction of khor, | | |called Olip. | | | | 3 | 36 |Track bends suddenly to right, and | | |crosses a short and easy “agaba,” | | |or pass. This is a short cut, main | | |khor could be followed, and pass | | |avoided, if necessary. This would | | |make good halting place for | | |infantry. It is 15 miles from | | |Tambuk; plenty fuel and grazing. | | |No water, but probably could be | | |found if sunk for. | | | _Dissibil | 7 | 43 |One large well, which is merely (well)_ | | |hole scooped in ground, gives | | |plentiful supply good water; | | |similar water holes could be dug | | |without difficulty, and supply | | |water practically unlimited; good | | |camp ground, fuel, and grazing. | | | | | |Dissibil khor full of trees and | | |shrubs; many gazelle and rock | | |grouse and doves. | | | | 4 | 47 |Track crosses small pass or agaba, | | |thence runs under high mountains | | |on left hand, called Jebel Tamei. | | |Chain of low stone hills on right, | | |going fair all time. | | | Odrus | 7 | 54 |Track debouches on wide open | | |plain, perhaps 15 miles by 10, | | |called Wadi Odrus; is covered with | | |coarse grass and stunted mimosa. | | |Gradual rise up to here, now | | |gentle descent to centre of Wadi | | |Odrus, where a narrow khor known Tekarti | 6 | 60 |as Tekarti. In good rain season | | |considerable quantity of dura is | | |grown along edge of this khor, but | | |on Dissibil side and to eastwards | | |only. Several well-grown trees | | |along edge of khor. This is 15 | | |miles from Dissibil, and would | | |make suitable halting place for | | |infantry. No water, except after | | |rains; good camp ground, fuel, and | | |grazing. A gradual rise from here. | | | | 3¼ | 63¼ |On right of track, under low hill, | | |several stone huts of Hamdab | | |tribe. | | | | 2 | 65¼ |Wadi Odrus ends and track crosses | | |outlying stony ridges of Amud | | |range. | | | | 2 | 67¼ |A sharp gradient and highest point | | |of whole route is reached 2,870 | | |feet above sea level. A sharp | | |descent by about ¾ mile of rocky | | |agaba or pass, which, however, | | |presents but little difficulty to _Khor Hareitri| ¾ | 68 |passage of all arms, leads to Khor (well)_ | | |Hareitri, a rather narrow defile (Tamai) | | |between high stone hills. Stony, | | |baddish going, full of sunt or | | |mimosa trees, and patches of | ¾ | 68¾ |coarse grass. Three-quarters mile | | |up khor is well, known as Bir | | |Tamai by some, by others as simply | | |Hareitri, a stone revetted well, | | |giving good water about 12 feet | | |down, rough wood huts on other | | |side of well. | | | _Adel Aweb_[3]| 3¼ | 72 |Rain pools found all along edges | | |of khor, and 3 miles from Tamai a | | |very large deep pool, giving any | | |quantity good water. Natives say | | |pools all disappear in winter a | | |few months after rain ceases, but | | |wells could be sunk with success | | |anywhere in khor. The big pool | | |above called by natives Adel Aweb. | | |Good grazing and fuel here, | | |indifferent camp ground on account | | |of stones. Rock grouse and doves | | |in khor, which is about 5 miles | | |long. | | | | 1 | 73 |Hareitri defile ends, and wide | | |open plain called Wadi Tisartem is | | |reached. Here dura is cultivated. | | | | 1½ | 74½ |A few huts on right, and some dura | | |grown in good rain season, a good | | |camp ground near here, fuel and | | |grazing, but no water, though not | | |impossible, might be found. | | | | 4 | 78½ |Track crosses low rough ridges for | | |½ mile. | | | _Salalat | ½ | 79 |Khor Haab thick with fair-sized (well)_ | | |trees, a sandy plain. Two and | | |a-half miles off track, to left or | | |south, is Bir Salalat, two wells, | | |partially revetted wood, water | | |good, about 40 feet down. Supply | | |limited, each well could, perhaps, | | |supply 600 gallons, and would then | | |require three hours to refill, | | |more wells could easily be sunk. | | |Good camp ground, fuel and | | |grazing, and some fair-sized trees | | |near wells. These wells cannot be | | |relied on as permanent. In 1903 | | |they had been dry for 2 years. | | | | 3½ | 82½ |A slight rise brings track to | | |level plateau of gravelly trap, | | |smooth and firm, no vegetation, | | |leading down to Khor Furd. | | | | 2½ | 85 |A very large patch cultivation | | |dependent on rainfall, nothing | | |could be grown this year. | | | | 5½ | 90½ |Across a neck, high irregular- | | |shaped rocky hill few hundred | | |yards to right, large black | | |boulder to left. Quarter mile | | |further is level, open, gravelly | | |piece of ground, suitable for | | |camp, with fuel and grazing, but | | |no water. From here vegetation | | |gradually ceases. | | | | 2 | 92½ |Cross neck of Iglaladat, outlying | | |ridge with high mass of rock on | | |left. From here hills close in and | | |track along base of outlying spurs | | |and ridges. | | | Khor Kokreb | 3½ | 96 |Agaba or pass leading to Khor | | |Kokreb begins, a descent, a slight | | |rise, then a steep and rocky, but | | |not difficult, piece, in all about | | |½ mile, and khor is entered; ½ _Hayaba | 1 | 97 |mile on and well called Hayaba, a (well)_ | | |hole in ground, water a few feet | | |down and good, only one hole at | | |present, but others could be dug | | |in very short time, giving a | | |practically unlimited supply. | | |Rough wooden hut and Arab grave, | | |and on left of well good camp | | |ground, water, fuel, and grazing. | | | _Sarbit | 1½ | 98½ |Revetted stone well, good water (well)_ | | |about 10 feet down, sufficient for | | |battalion, good ground, fuel, and | | |grazing. | | | | 4 | 102½ |Track, now well to right of khor, | | |runs over a neck between small | | |rocky hills for short way, then | | |sand, then rocks, with graveyards | | |on each side; ½ mile on and low | | |rocky chain hides main khor from | | |track, hills gradually close in. | | | | 1½ | 104 |Hills now come in from north at | | |right angles to track, and appear | | |to entirely block up khor; under | | |these hills was situated the | | |Dervish post of Osman Digna. A | | |collection of tukuls, sufficient | | |for about 200 men, and surrounded | | |by a thick thorn zariba; clear, | | |level space, some 700 yards to | | |front and flanks, within 200 yards | | |of hills at back; a well enough | | |chosen position as regards | | |covering road from Suakin. A | | |narrow and short defile on extreme | | |left affords an exit, and khor | | |again widens somewhat. | | | _El Matar | 1½ | 105½ |A hole scooped in ground, good (well)_ | | |water a few feet down, enough for | | |half battalion at present, but | | |could be quickly increased by | | |digging other holes. Camp ground, | | |grazing, and fuel here. Track now | | |bends to left and crosses neck | | |between two old graveyards. | | | _Abd El Haabit| 1½ | 107 |Two wells here, about ½ mile (well)_ | | |apart, one on track, other ½ mile | | |to left. The one on track a hole | | |in khor, good water, limited | | |supply, enough for about 100 | | |camels, before refilling in two | | |hours. Other revetted stone, now | | |dry, but could easily be reopened. | | | | | |All these four last wells in Khor | | |Kokreb, which is wide, full of | | |trees and shrubs, with stony hills | | |here and there, many gazelle, | | |doves and rock grouse. Track | | |follows khor in all about 10 | | |miles, when it branches to right. | | | | | |Track now enters wide open plain | | |of black stone, but good going, | | |bare but for few stunted mimosa, | | |and coarse patches of grass. | | | | 5 | 112 |Stone ceases, and firm sand takes | | |its place. | | | | 2½ | 114½ |Track bends to right among patches | | |of huge boulders. | | | | | |Directly after entering Agortitweb | | |Plain, a black hill, surmounted by | | |what appears to be two tower-like | | |masses of rock, makes an excellent | | |landmark, as tracks leads straight | | |on to it. | | | Lagag Aweb[4] | 1½ | 116 |Above-mentioned landmark is (called by | | |passed, it lies to left of road, natives half | | |and on close inspection becomes a way to Berber)| | |smooth, oval base of rock, with | | |irregular mass at approach end, | | |while other block dissolves into | | |two huge boulders, one with a | | |considerable lean to east. Pass | | |between this, which is called | | |Lagag Aweb, on left, and a smaller | | |rocky hill on right, is considered | | |by natives as half way to Berber. | | | | | |Track now winds for 2 miles round | | |base of low stony hills, crosses a | | |neck, then on left a strip of | | |coarse grass and stunted mimosa, | | |bearing away to left, while hills | | |on left also spread away. For some | | |way further, track winds along | | |base of hills on right, when they | | |also spread away, and the stony Wadi Yungul or| 2½ | 118½ |plain called Wadi Yungul is K. Yomga | | |reached, going good. Good camp | | |grounds, but indifferent grazing, | | |and no water or fuel in Wadi | | |Yungul. Yungul Plain ceases, track | | |winds to right between low stony | | |hills. A little over 1 mile and | 6½ | 125 |narrow khor, with few trees and | | |coarse grass, is crossed, then | | |again winds through low hills. Two | | |connected hillocks of white marble | | |being a prominent feature | | |immediately to left of track. | | | | 3 | 128 |The Ariab valley is entered, it is | | |thick with scrub and fair-sized | | |trees, with numerous herds, goats, | | |&c. The hills stretch away on | | |either side. Natives report there | | |is a well called Makardi off track | | |to left under the hills, but that | | |it gives but little water. | | | _Ariab[5] | 3 | 131 |Three miles up valley are Ariab (well)_ | | |wells. One large stone-revetted in | | |centre of khor, giving practically | | |unlimited supply, excellent water. | | |Water about 20 feet down. 150 | | |yards from this well are two | | |others, also revetted, stone one | | |gives plentiful supply, other | | |partially choked for want of use. | | |Good camp ground, grazing, water | | |and fuel. Many of gazelle, doves, | | |and rock grouse in valley. Track | | |now leaves Khor Ariab on right, | | |and goes south-west through black | | |stone hills, low on right, high on | | |left, somewhat bad going. | | | | | |Level plain, covered tufts coarse | | |grass, half stony, half sandy, | | |good going. | | | | | |Through low hills, rather bad | | |going. | | | Wadi Barud | — | — |Wide level plain, covered coarse | | |grass, good going. | | | Wadi O’Duruk | — | — |Level plain, good going, some | | |coarse scrub, stunted trees. | | | | | |Track leaves O’Duruk on right and | | |passes to left of, and immediately | | |below, a high stone hill, across a | | |small khor, and then winds among | | |low stone hills. | | | Wadi Temartua | — | — |Good going, partly firm sand, | | |partly stony. | | | Khor Laiameb | 44 | 175 |A broad khor running about east | | |and west, almost at right angles | | |to track. Said to contain pools | | |after rain, about 4 miles to west | | |of track. Small mimosa trees and | | |coarse grass; water might be found | | |if sunk for. Track after crossing | | |Khor Laiameb again goes over hilly | | |stony ground. | | | Jebel O’Fik | 2½ | 177½ |On right of track country open and | | |level again, a few trees and some | | |grass here. | | | Wadi Tatua | — | — |After passing Jebel O’Fik the Wadi | | |Tatua is entered; sandhills, &c., | | |in khor; Obak can be seen in | | |distance; good going. | | | | 5½ | 183 |Across a low ridge, going still | | |good. | | | | | |Plain becomes covered with small | | |mimosa bushes; 1½ miles through | | |these bushes and Obak sandhills | | |and drifts are entered. | | | _Obak (well)_ | 9 | 192 |Large new well, gives 2,000 | | |gallons when full; takes 10 hours | | |to refill. Water slightly | | |brackish. Natives say that there | | |were formerly 50 or 60 of these | | |wells, but have fallen in from | | |want of use. Wells, revetted wood; | | |water about 40 feet down. | | |Indifferent camp ground, some | | |grazing and fuel. | | | | | |For 3 miles after Obak track lies | | |through heavy sand over hills and | | |drifts, then good level going, | | |only occasional sand. | | | | 14 | 206 |Some trees and grass here; | | |suitable camp ground; water might | | |possibly be found. Site of | | |proposed well. | | | Jebel Eremit | 2 | 208 |A low granite hill on left of | | |track. | | | Abu Odfa | 5 | 213 |Curious-shaped mass of rock on | | |right of track. | | | Wadi Abu Selim| 21 | 234 |Some trees and grass; water could | | |probably be found. Site of | | |proposed well. | | | _Maho Bey | 11 | 245 |Good revetted well, 40 feet down, (well)_ | | |covered by mud brick fort; | | |excellent water, practically | | |unlimited supply, good camping | | |ground, fuel and grazing. | | | Berber | 6 | 251 |Except for first 3 miles all going | | |from Obak to Berber excellent. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- SUMMARY OF WELLS ON NORTHERLY ROUTE. -------------+--------+--------------------------------------------- Name of well.|Distance| Description. | apart. | -------------+--------+--------------------------------------------- | Miles. | | | Handub | 10[6]|Slightly brackish, unlimited supply. | | Otao | 9 |One well, hole in khor; good water could | |be developed. | | Tambuk | 5 |Good water about 15 feet down, unlimited | |supply. | | Dissibil | 19 |One well, good water hole in khor, at | |present (1898) sufficient half battalion | |and transport; could be increased at will. | | Tamai | 25 |In Khor Hareitri; well also by some | |called Hareitri. Stone, revetted, about | |12 feet deep, good water; well itself | |sufficient for half battalion and | |transport, but supply easily increased. | |Rain pools all along Khor Hareitri; one | |very large and deep called Adelaweb, 3 | |miles from Tamai. | | Salalat | 11 |One and a-half miles to left of road, two | |wells, revetted stone, one practically | |choked. Good water about 40 feet down, | |limited supply, enough for 50 camels, and | |takes 2 hours to refill. | | Hayaba | 18 |Hole in sand, 4 feet deep, met | |immediately on entering Khor Kokreb; good | |water, supply practically unlimited, as | |similar holes can be dug in very short | |time. | | Sarbit | 1½ |In Khor Kokreb, good water about 10 feet | |down, revetted stone. | | Matar | 7 |Hole in khor, still Kokreb, good water, | |supply half battalion, but could be | |developed. Former watering place of | |Dervish Kokreb post 1½ miles off. | | Id El Haabit | 1½ |Hole in khor, good water, sufficient half | |battalion, could be developed. | | Ariab | 24 |One very large well, revetted stone, good | |water about 20 feet down; two smaller, | |also revetted stone, one now choked. | |Water sufficient at present for one | |battalion and transport, and could be | |developed. | | Obak | 61 |One large stone revetted well, giving | |excellent supply of good water. | | Maho Bey | 52 |Large stone revetted well, good water, | |large supply. -------------+--------+--------------------------------------------- (β)—BERBER TO SUAKIN (SOUTHERLY ROUTE). The mileage is estimated by pace of camels, and there appears to be but little difference between the northerly and southerly routes; the Arabs, however, call the south road the longer. Water supply is quite equal to that on north road, and all wells, being more or less deep sunk, do not get fouled by animals drinking direct from them, as is the case with surface wells, such as Dissibil, Hayaba, &c. These wells are also much more used by Arabs for watering their flocks than those on other track, and, without exception, they are surrounded by diruks, or earth-made drinking pans, which are scarce on other road. A long rope and deluk, or native sort of bucket of thin hide, would be required at each well. For movements of troops the north road is infinitely to be preferred, as going throughout is comparatively easy for all arms. On south road, numerous agabas, or passes over the hills, make going hard and difficult. The big agaba between Sinkat and Tamaneb is almost impossible for wheeled artillery. (β) SOUTHERLY ROUTE, _viâ_ OBAK, RAUAI, KHOR ARAB, AND SINKAT. BY MAJOR W. S. SPARKES, NOVEMBER, 1897. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Berber | — | — | | | | _Maho Bey_ | 6 | 6 |_Vide_ report on north road. | | | Khor Abu Selim| 11 | 17 | „ „ | | | Abu Odfa | 21 | 38 | „ „ | | | Eramit | 5 | 43 | „ „ | | | _Obak Wells_ | 16 | 59 | „ „ | | | Ofik | 14 | 73 | „ „ | | | | 4½ | 77½ |Track to Rauai branches away to | | |right. Also a track to Rauai a few | | |miles after leaving Obak. | | | | 1½ | 79 |Through low stony hills and Khor | | |Laiameb is struck; track runs | | |straight along khor. Going good; a | | |gradual rise; Khor Wusser runs | | |side by side with Laiameb, and | | |appears to form part of it. | | | | 17 | 96 |Track leaves Khor Laiameb and | | |crosses low neck of rock; low | | |black stone hills on right hand; | | |scattered boulders, some of | | |similar shape to Abu Odfa on left | | |hand. Hills gradually close in, | | |and track crosses stony but not | | |difficult agaba, or pass, some ¾ | | |mile long. | | | | ¾ | 96¾ |A path to left leads over hills to | | |Ariab. | | | | 1¾ | 98½ |Over stony khor, then into hills | | |again, and is stony, steep, bad | | |going. | | | _Rauai Wells_ | 2 | 100½ |Stony sort of square, surrounded | | |By stone hills, with a narrow khor | | |running out each corner. Large | | |graveyard on right. A few mimosa | | |trees and some coarse grass. | | |Indifferent camping ground. Wells | | |½ mile up a narrow, rocky defile, | | |running from east corner of | | |square; two wells, revetted stone, | | |good water 15 feet down; | | |practically unlimited supply. This | | |defile impassable for animals, | | |which must go by easier way over | | |hills to south-west, and then down | | |side of hill again to the wells. | | |Some rough drawings of camels, | | |men, &c., scratched on rocks round | | |wells. Rock grouse and partridges | | |here. Track now runs north-west | | |over short agaba, across a stony | | |khor, and again an agaba winding | | |over bare, stony hills; bad going; | | |then a long, narrow, sandy khor; | | |fair-going; then a rough, stony | | |agaba leading over hills called | | |Hadia Aweb or blackwater rock; | | |thence into Khor Thela, a short _Makadia | 14½ | 115 |agaba, and Bir Makadia, in small Wells_ | | |khor same name, at head of Ariab | | |valley; Ariab wells, about 6 miles | | |west of north from here; one well | | |good water 30 feet down, enough | | |for one battalion, which would | | |require 1½ hours to refill; good | | |grazing ground and fuel. Some | | |gazelle and grouse; north road | | |about 3 miles from well. Going | | |from Rauai bad, nearly whole way a | | |succession of stony agabas. Prom | | |here cross stony neck, then across | | |head of Ariab valley. Pass Jebel | | |Bokmaali on left hand, cross a | | |stony neck, and | | | Yungul | 4 | 119 |Reach Wadi Yungul; north road | | |about 8 miles to left; 4 miles, | | |then cross another stony neck, and | | |Wadi Beakwa, called by Arabs | | |halfway to Suakin. | | | Khor Atbai | 7½ | 126½ |Cross Khor Atbai; 3 miles on cross | | |old dura patch, none this year on | | |account of bad rains. Over two | | |sandy and stony ridges and | | | Wadi Kokreb | 3½ | 130 |Enter Kokreb valley; good going, | | |firm sand, and thick with trees | | |and shrubs. Over some stony ridges | | |and | | | Khor Olowe | 2½ | 132½ |Enter Khor Olowe, still a part of | | |Kokreb. | | | _Magwala | 3½ | 136 |Two wells, good water, 75 feet Wells_ | | |down, sufficient for one | | |battalion; would require some | | |hours to refill; these wells are | | |said by Arabs to be oldest on | | |road; they are revetted granite, | | |which is deeply grooved all round | | |from constant hauling up of water. | | |Are much used by Shebodinab tribe, | | |who have huts close here. Many | | |hods, or earth-made drinking pans, | | |round each well. Some old Dervish | | |“tukuls,” which used to be | | |occupied by a detachment, for | | |collecting taxes. Good camp | | |ground, fuel and grazing, pigeons | | |and sand grouse; no gazelle. Wells | | |of Abd El Haabit lie some 7 or 8 | | |miles to north, and Jebel Wowitte, | | |about 8 miles to north-east; Jebel | | |Lagagaweb, the halfway rock on | | |north road, is seen some 6 miles | | |to north of west from here. | | | | | |Khor now gradually gets bare and | | |intersected by strips of stone. | | | | 4 | 140 |Cross a ridge and Khor Lasheb, | | |going indifferent, cut up by small | | |watercourses over a ridge. | | | _Wadi Habub_ | 3 | 143 |Wadi Habub. Going still | | |indifferent, across many ridges | | |running into khor, 5½ miles on; | | |track runs along edge of hills, | | |and then enters the Komotitai | | |hills by very stony and difficult | | |agaba or pass, about 1½ miles | | |long, then into sandy khor, full | | |of vegetation of sorts. 2 miles up | | |this khor to the | | | _Kamotitai | 11 | 154 |Wells of same name, _i.e._, Wells_ | | |Kamotitai, three wells, revetted | | |stone, good water 25 feet down | | |unlimited supply. Many other wells | | |in this khor now closed up; much | | |used by Arabs, and at each well | | |numerous hods. Good camp ground, | | |fuel, and grazing; sand grouse and | | |pigeons in abundance. | | | | | |A short way past wells, track | | |bends to left past large | | |graveyard; then across alternate | | |khors and ridges; indifferent | | |going. | | | Khor Arab | 7 | 161 |Thick with trees of all sorts, and | | |considerable cultivation in good | | |season. Two deep watercourses | | |crossed soon after entering khor; | | |3 miles on the track runs to north | | |of khor, over stony ridges, with | | |low stone hills on either hand. | | | Jebel Okwer | 7 | 168 |Jebel Okwer begins on left of | | |khor, several small pyramid-shaped | | |hills on right, and khor | | |stretching away beyond them. | | | _Khor Amate | 3½ | 171½ |Over a low ridge, and Wadi Amate Wells_ | | |begins; track running across large | | |patch of old cultivation into a | | |sandy khor; one well some 200 | | |yards to right, another ½ mile | | |straight on. There is a third | | |well, now closed. These wells, | | |revetted wood, good water 12 feet | | |down; supply practically | | |unlimited; many hods. Good camp | | |ground, fuel and grazing. A stone | | |hut close to well, and place thick | | |with sheep and goats, and some | | |cattle. | | | | | |Track from here runs north-west, | | |over small agaba into narrow khor | | |thick with trees. Okwer range | | |still on left; low hills on right | | |3½ miles, and hills on right hand, | | |and track again enters main Khor | | |Amate. Batta range on far right | | |and in front; ½ mile on Okwer | | |range ends. | | | | 4½ | 176 |Track to _wells of Abu Goloda_ | | |runs north from here. | | | | 3½ | 179½ |End of Khor Amate, and Batta range | | |entered by fairly easy agaba, | | |running east 1½ miles; then cross | | |small stony khor, then another | | |agaba through smaller hills, going | | |bad. | | | _Hormareb | 3½ | 183 |Jebel Homugwer away in distance to Well_ | | |right, ¾ mile off track to north | | |in small khor same name, Bir | | |Hormareb; one well, good water 25 | | |feet down; supply about 1,000 | | |gallons; requires some hours to | | |refill. Several hods round well; | | |good grazing and fuel, indifferent | | |ground. _Another well_ reported, | | |same description, 3 or 4 miles | | |further up khor to north. From | | |here bad going, over stony ridges | | |and small khors. | | | Wadi Ma’areit | 3½ | 186½ |Large graveyard on right, and | | |track turns sharp to left up Wadi | | |Ma’areit, a broad level valley, | | |running north and south; good | | |going, and considerable | | |cultivation after good rains. This | | |year a few patches dura. North- | | |west corner of valley thickly | | |studded with trees, and was in old | | |days a favourite summer resort of | | |people from Suakin. | | | | 6½ | 193 |Hills close right in on either | | |side, and the narrow wooded Khor | | |Ashaf leads through hills 2 miles; | | |track bends north-east, 1½ miles | | |on, and cross a flat khor, with | | |sparse vegetation, thick with | | |flocks. | | | | | |Now over alternate rough ridges | | |and small ragged khors. 2½ miles | | |down a sharp agaba into a small | | |khor, green and sweet smelling, | | |then wind round base of hills | | |miles, and enter Khor Tabikuk. | | | Khor Tabikuk | 7½ | 200½ |Across this khor, 3½ miles, top a | | |ridge, and view Sinkat valley, | | |green and thick with people and | | |flocks; down small agaba, over low | | |ridge, and enter valley. | | | _Sinkat Well_ | 4½ | 205 |One large well, good water 25 feet | | |down; unlimited supply. Several | | |large gemmeiza trees round wells | | |give excellent shade; ruins old | | |Egyptian fort also close to wells. | | |Large village in valley, with | | |several thousand people, built | | |partly straw huts, partly Arab | | |tents, small bazaar, and large | | |stores of gum. | | | | | |Good ground, fuel and grazing. | | |Khor Adit leads from north Sinkat | | |valley towards Khor Ossaud. | | | | | |Track from well runs east across | | |valley, then over low ridge across | | |two deep watercourses, and up a | | |stony, gradually-narrowing khor, | | |which winds through the hills. | | | _Khor Gebet_ | 6½ | 211½ |A short but bad agaba, a small | | |khor, a ridge, another small khor, | | |another ridge and Khor Gebet; | | |about 3 miles up this khor to | | |right are two wells. | | | | 3 | 214½ |Commencement of the great Sinkat | | |Agaba or Pass, along which track | | |runs for 3½ miles; very bad, | | |difficult going, practically | | |impassable for wheeled artillery, | | |and would be altogether | | |impracticable but for the work | | |done years ago by Mumtaz Pasha, | | |then Governor of Suakin. In this | | |agaba the Khor Gwob rises, which, | | |gradually widening, eventually | | |reaches the sea some 7 miles south | | |of Suakin. | | | _Khor Gwob_ | 3½ | 218 |End of agaba, and good going over | | |firm sand; gradual descent down | | |khor, which gradually widens. | | |Hills on either side, thick with | | |tamarisk, and cactus, &c. Huge | | |boulders on each side also | | |protruding from bed of khor. Pools | | |of water, with thick reeds here | | |and there, in which were many | | |teal; also many partridges, rock | | |grouse, and pigeons in khor. | | | _Tamanib_ | 6 | 224 |Unlimited supply, good running | | |water; fair camp ground; excellent | | |grazing; plenty fuel. Many cattle | | |grazing here. | | | | | |Road now leaves Khor Gwob and | | |turns to right; runs over low | | |ridges, with small khors between; | | |full of gazelle, ariel and hares. | | | | 10 | 234 |Hills cease, and a straight down- | | |hill run into Suakin, over plain | | |covered with coarse vegetation. | | | Suakin | 10 | 244 |Suakin. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 3.—BERBER TO KASSALA. COMPILED IN INTELLIGENCE OFFICE, KHARTOUM, FROM VARIOUS SKETCHES AND REPORTS, JUNE, 1902. This route is very difficult to map or describe so as to be of use to the traveller, as there are hardly half a dozen unmistakable objects along it by which he could identify his position. As the Atbara dries up, it leaves a series of pools along its bed. Where the banks allow of these pools being approached by animals, the Arabs’ flocks are taken to water, and paths are beaten or cut through the bush leading to these meshras. [Sidenote: Guides.] The ordinary Arab guide, even if he has been in the habit of travelling by this road for years, knows only a small number of these meshras, _i.e._, those most conveniently situated for the class of journey he has been in the habit of performing, and only one or two of the countless tracks. The only people who know all the small meshras off the road, and they perhaps over a limited portion of the river, are the Arabs (Hadendoas) who are grazing their flocks there. If the traveller, therefore, because he is marching with troops or for any other reason, wishes to use the less well-known meshras, he must depend on local inquiries and should, therefore, have with him men who speak Hadendoa. Another great difficulty is the comparatively small number of men who know the names of any except the chief meshras. Consequently the average guide makes the names he knows extend over the whole length of the river. Where one ends, another begins. The Arabs grazing their flocks by the Atbara, on the other hand, will give you names for each little bit of the river, but these names are of little value, as no one else knows them. [Sidenote: Rest houses.] There are rest houses at intervals of about 20 miles between Berber and Kassala. [Sidenote: Grazing.] There is good grazing for camels practically the whole way. [Sidenote: Travellers.] Persons travelling by themselves in the hot weather may find it best to march very early in the morning, halt at water, and march again near sunset, carrying enough water for the night-halt away from the river. [Sidenote: Supplies.] No supplies of any sort are to be got along road, except perhaps milk and sheep. [Sidenote: Game.] There is good fishing in the Atbara. Gazelle, bustard and ariel are seen along the route in localities, varying with the season. Wild asses are numerous north of Goz Regeb. [Sidenote: Inhabitants.] Some Bisharin are met, and a good many nomad Hadendoas. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Berber | — | — |From Berber the road runs between | | |the river and the railway. | | | Darmali | 13 | 13 |A mud built village on the Nile; | | |the usual road now branches | | |southwards, crosses the railway | | |and than a bare, gravelly, Khor El Hudi | 17 | 30 |waterless plain to Khor El Hudi. | | |(If preferred, the Atbara can be | | |followed by continuing along the | | |Nile to Atbara Station, which is | | |about 7 miles from Darmali.) | | | | | |From El Hudi, where the remains of | | |the Anglo-Egyptian zeriba are | | |still visible, the road skirts the | | |river which is fringed with dom Khor Abadar or| 8 | 38 |palms and other bush to Khor Abu Adar | | |Abadar, near the junction of which | | |there is a small stone wall | | |enclosure and the remains of | | |another Anglo-Egyptian zeriba. | | | | | |From here the road cuts off an | | |angle from the river and lies _Khor El Hilg_| 19 | 57 |across open gravelly desert till (Rest House) | | |Khor El Hilg is reached. | | | | | |(Nakheila, the site of Mahmud’s | | |zeriba and the battle of the | | |Atbara, is passed at the 12th | | |mile, about 5 miles to the west.) | | |There is dense bush about here, | | |and the ground is likely to be | | |swampy in the rains. | | | Sheikh El | 3½ | 60½ |The house stands on slightly Sebib’s House | | |rising ground. After passing this (Rest House). | | |the country continues to be broken | | |by small khors until after passing _Gemmeiza_ | 12 | 72½ |Gemmeiza, a good halting place, (Rest House) | | |but much bush hereabouts. | | | | | |The country soon becomes open and | | |level, and is covered with | | |scattered selem and sunt bushes. | | |The river is generally nowhere | | |more than a mile and half to the | | |west. | | | El Hagar | 14½ | 87 |Here there are rocks in the river | | |bed. | | | Khor El Fil | 1 | 88 |The going continues excellent | | |until reaching Khor Adarama which Khor Adarama | 8 | 96 |is about 1½ miles in width and is | | |marked by very thick scrub of | | |sunt, talh, and tundub, as well as | | |by the badly cracked cotton soil | | |indicative of standing water. | | | _Adarama_ | 1½ | 97½ |Adarama consists of a large number (Rest House) | | |of mud walled enclosures, | | |scattered over about ¾ of a square | | |mile of ground. These are almost | | |entirely deserted and mostly | | |ruined. With the exception of the | | |inspector’s house, camel corps | | |lines, and a few tukls, there are | | |practically no inhabited houses. | | |In the dry weather there are two | | |water pools in the vicinity, one | | |at the foot of Khor Adarama, and | | |another about ¾ mile higher up. | | |The approach to the river is easy, | | |but the bank shelves steeply to | | |the river bed from a height of | | |about 25 feet. | | | El Hejera | 1½ | 99 |A large zeriba of Osman Digna’s is | | |passed. | | | Um Bashim | 2 | 101 |The name of this district. After | | |passing through two patches of | | |bush about a mile apart, the | | |country becomes open and sandy, | | |and sand ridges appear to the | | |east. | | | El Siwan | 8 | 109 |Here the river may be approached, | | |and further on the track passes | | |within a few yards of the river | | |bank. | | | _Shellalab_ | 10½ | 119½ |Shellalab, a sandy hill covered (Rest House | | |with marakh bushes. From here the near here). | | |track continues to the river bank, | | |through scattered marakh bush, and | | |sand hills lie away to the east. Gala Amarus | — | — |The river can be approached almost | | |anywhere, and the path is never _Meshra Baluk | 21½ | 141 |more than about ½ a mile from it. or Um Beiba_ | | |Jebel Ayob is visible about 7 (Rest House). | | |miles due east. | | | | | |From here the path traverses | | |scattered bush, and in places | | |badly cracked cotton soil, | | |indicating the existence of water | | |in the rains, and gradually | | |ascends an easy slope on to the | | |plateau, and thus cuts off a bend | | |in the river. | | | Debba Gulal | 13 | 154 |Debba Gulal. | | | | | |The descent from the plateau | | |begins 3 miles further on, and the _Meshra_ | 7 | 161 |river is struck at a good meshra. | | | _Meshra | 3 | 164 |The path continuing near the Mitateb_ (Rest| | |river, Mitateb, the first meshra House). | | |in the Hadendoa country, is | | |reached. The Bisharin country on | | |right bank ends here, as also the | | |Berber Province; the Province of | | |Kassala is now entered. Rest house | | |here. | | | | | |From here the path gradually | | |ascends a gentle slope to the | | |plateau, from where Jebels Ofreik | | |and Erembat soon become visible. | | |Scattered heglig, tundub, and samr | | |trees are noticeable, of these | | |samr predominate as Goz Regeb is | | |approached. | | | | | |Two miles before reaching old | | |telegraph hut the road descends | | |from the plateau, and the river is | | |reached at this hut, which forms a | | |good halting place. The village of _Goz Regeb_ | 15 | 179 |Goz Regeb is situated on a slight (Rest House) | | |eminence close to the river on the | | |left bank, and is marked by a few | | |dom palms. Some Government | | |buildings are now in course of | | |construction on the right bank, | | |the idea being that Goz Regeb | | |should form a sanatorium for | | |Kassala during the rains. The | | |direct track to Kassala and that | | |in general use leaves J. Erembat | | |to the north, and strikes straight | | |across the level plain. At about _Bir Teishum_ | 38 | 217 |38 miles, Bir Teishum is passed in (Rest House) | | |the bed of a branch of the Gash, | | |about 3 miles off the direct road. | | |It has been lately opened up, and | | |has a good supply of water, and | | |Arabs were living here (March, | | |1902). There is little shade to be | | |had on this road until after Khor Ebret | 20 | 237 |passing Khor Ebret, when kurmet | | |and other green trees and bushes Khor Gash | 5 | 242 |become numerous. On nearing the | | |Gash, signs of cultivation appear. | | | _Tukruf_ | 1¾ | 243¾ |Many wells in bed of Gash; | | |unlimited supply of water. | | | Kassala | 2¾ | 246½ |Destination. ANOTHER ROUTE MAY BE TAKEN FROM GOZ REGEB _viâ_ ASUBRI TO KASSALA. _Goz Regeb_ | 179 | 179 |The track ascends to the plateau | | |and follows the edge of it, | | |leaving the river several miles to | | |the west. There are several | | |meshras, all of which, however, | | |are almost impossible to find | | |without a guide. | | | _Meshra Um | 30 | 209 |This meshra is somewhere about Bereika_ | | |half-way. | | | _Asubri_ | 35 | 244 |Good meshra and shade. | | | | | |About 5 miles after leaving the | | |river for Kassala, the road from | | |Suweihil joins in, and rather | | |thick laot and kittr bush is Goz El Handal | 8½ | 252½ |traversed till reaching Goz El | | |Handal, an open gravelly plain | | |with short grass extending for | | |about 2 miles From here to | | |Umsiteiba there is little bush. | | | Umsiteiba | 13 | 265½ |A place where water stands in the | | |rains; not much shade. | | | Khor Garatet | 3 | 268½ |Rather swampy and difficult for | | |camels in the rains. | | | Khor Um Dahan | 6 | 274½ |Water stands in this khor in the | | |rains. It is about 6 yards wide | | |and 3 feet deep. | | | | | |There are Arab settlements near | | |here in the rains for cultivation. | | |After passing through some rather Khor Kunti | 6 | 280½ |thick laot, &c., bush, Khor Kunti, | | |about 8 yards wide and 6 feet | | |deep, is crossed. | | | Khor Gash | 4¼ | 284¾ |Many marakh and kurmet bushes | | |until the Gash is reached. | | | Kassala | ¾ | 285½ | --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 4.—SUAKIN TO TOKAR. BY LIEUTENANT A. M. TAGGART, 1ST BOMBAY LANCERS, JULY, 1896; CAPTAIN MCKERRELL, CAMERON HIGHLANDERS, DECEMBER, 1897. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Suakin | — | — |For the first 25 miles the track | | |is well defined, and leads over | | |hard ground never more than a mile | | |or two from the sea shore. During | | |the next 6 miles it changes in | | |character, and for the last 25 | | |miles leads through bushes and | | |over sandhills, the tracks varying | | |according to the season and the | | |difficulties (drifting sand, &c.) | | |to be encountered. There is no | | |water to be had on the way. A | | |telegraph line leads direct from | | |Suakin to Tokar, but does not | | |always follow the best road. | | | | | |Leaving Suakin in a S.S.E. | | |direction, the track is broad and | | |distinct, passing over hard, sandy | | |ground, with a few bushes 1 to 3 | | |feet high. | | | Khor Gwob | 7½ | 7½ |Crosses broad Khor Gwob. | | | | 3 | 10½ |Track now 5 to 10 feet broad, | | |approaches sea shore, then bears | | |away again. Near this point (4 | | |hours from Suakin) there are | | |reported to have been some wells | | |in 1885; water 6 feet down and | | |brackish, hardly ever used. | | | | 2 | 12 |Saw some trees due east, halfway | | |to the sea; said to be _wells of | | |Helub_. Water bitter, and but | | |little used. | | | | 3 | 15 |Track meets telegraph line. | | | | 2½ | 17½ |Over rising ground. Extensive view | | |in all directions to the westward, | | |well-defined khor trending north- | | |west. Sparse bushes 2 to 3 feet | | |high, ground hard and sandy, | | |overlying coral. Track descends | | |again; then level ground. | | | Khor Asab | 7½ | 25 |Reached Khor Asab, which runs in | | |from the hills to the west; it is | | |called half-way to Tokar. Here a | | |track branches off to the left, | | |and leads to Teb. | | | | 6 | 31 |Mud huts in ruins. Track becomes | | |narrow and indistinct. Bush | | |thicker, 4 to 8 feet high. | | | | | |Surface shifting sand, with clay | | |patches. | | | | 8 | 39 |Crosses several small khors, | | |sometimes traces of water here. | | |Bush very thick. | | | Khor Tamai | 2 | 41 |Small pool of rainwater (at | | |certain seasons only). | | | Mamuria | 4 | 45 |Ruined Mamuria of Mumtaz Pasha—mud | | |house. Telegraph line crossed | | |three times since the 31st mile. | | |Bush becomes thicker. | | | Old Tokar | 5 | 50 |Old Tokar—in ruins. Broken ground | | |and thick bush. | | | _Abdulla Rai_ | 2 | 52 |Abdulla Rai Fort (fat loopholed | | |tower, with pointed roof), on an | | |eminence, visible from some | | |distance. Nine wells here, water | | |good—never known to fail, 54 feet | | |down (July). Large herds of camels | | |and goats in the district. Thick | | |bush all round. | | | | | |Track now due south-east to Tokar, | | |surface hard and clayey, covered | | |in places with drifted sand; bush | | |3 to 6 feet high. Tokar signal | | |tower visible. | | | | 3 | 55 |Leave the bush, across level mud | | |plain to | | | _Tokar_ | 1 | 56 |Tokar, _vide_ Part I, Chap. III. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 5.—TRINKITAT TO TOKAR, _viâ_ TEB. BY CAPTAIN BOWER, I.S.C., AND EDITOR, JULY, 1896. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Trinkitat | — | — |The whole road from Trinkitat to | | |Tokar is passable for all arms, | | |and it is only when approaching | | |Tokar that the scrub about the | | |country becomes thick enough to | | |interfere with the action of | | |cavalry. | | | | | |For 2½ miles from Trinkitat the | | |road runs along a broad | | |embankment, on which for 1 mile an | | |18-inch gauge railway has been | | |laid down. After leaving the | | |embankment there is a sandy | | |stretch, and then about 2 miles of | | |narrow embankment just broad | | |enough for the railway line. This | | |embankment in places has rather a | | |serpentine course, and would have | | |to be straightened before rails | | |could be laid down. | | | _El Teb_ | 7 | 7 |At El Teb there is a small fort, | | |and an ample supply of water at a | | |depth of 17 feet. | | | | | |Three wells inside fort and | | |numerous ones outside, these | | |latter mostly for animals. | | | | | |The water in the different wells | | |varies in quality, but is all | | |slightly brackish. No ill effects, | | |however, appear to attend drinking | | |it, and the men quartered there | | |spoke favourably of it. | | | | | |The parapet of the fort is a brick | | |wall 10 feet high, 1½ feet thick; | | |ditch 11 feet broad, 8 feet deep. | | |Signal tower as at Tokar, 43 feet | | |high. Scene of battle of El Teb, | | |29th February, 1884, just north of | | |present fort. | | | | | |There are two roads from Teb to | | |Tokar, both broad (30-50 yards) | | |clearings through the bush. The | | |“new” road is the straightest, but | | |leads over soft sandhills and is | | |rarely used. The other road bears | | |gradually westwards a mile south | | |of Teb, and cannot be missed if | | |the traveller keeps on the west | | |edge of the clearing. Excellent | | |going for all arms. Bush on either | | |side 3 to 10 feet high. | | | _Abdulla Rai_ | 8 | 15 |Junction of Suakin track. Abdulla | | |Rai Fort, ½ mile west of track. | | | Tokar | 2½ | 17½ |Tokar. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 6.—(α) SUAKIN TO ERKOWIT, _viâ_ TAMANEB AND KHOR ARAB. BY MAJOR POWELL, R.E., MARCH, 1903. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Suakin | — | — |Leaving Suakin by the Shaata Gate | | |the track leads S.W. up the plain | | |reaching the granite outcrops of | | |the foot hills. Over broken, but | | |easy ground to Tamaneb, where | | |there is running water. | | | _Tamaneb_ | 8 | 18 |The track passes W. of Tamaneb and | | |ascends the flat valley bottom of | | |Khor Gwob to 22 miles, where the | | |junction with the Khor Nagit is | | |reached. Leaving the route to | | |Sinkat, which goes on up Gwob, the | | |track turns S.W. up Khor Nagit | | |till 27 miles, and then crosses a | | |short rocky agaba into Khor Manab. | | |Descending this easy valley, at | | |29½ miles the junction with Khor | | |Arab is reached. To avoid a gorge | | |the track ascends the hillside | | |about 150 feet by a different rock | | |path descending into the valley at | | |30½ miles. Up the valley, easy | | |going, for about a mile pass | | |_running water_ (brackish and | | |unpleasant), then ascend by steep | | |zigzags up the left bank (1 in 4 | | |at worst), after ½ mile along the | | |steep hillside cross the valley | | |and rise by a steep path to the | | |saddle separating Khor Arab from | | |the Khor Dahand. Descend into the | | |latter by a rocky path and, after | | |ascending with difficulty the | | |rocky torrent bed for another ½ | | |mile, reach the foot of the Agatba | | |agaba at mile 34. A steep climb of | | |¾ mile brings one to the summit, | | |after which the route crosses easy | | |rises and dips to Erkowit at mile _Erkowit_ | 21 | 39 |39. | | | | | |Good hill camels lightly laden | | |took 11 marching hours from | | |Erkowit to Suakin by this route, | | |and would take about 14 hours to | | |ascend. The track is not fit for | | |horses or fully laden mules. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- (β) SUAKIN TO ERKOWIT, _viâ_ KOLKALAI PASS. BY MAJOR POWELL, R.E., MARCH, 1903. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Suakin | — | — |Track leaves Suakin S.S.W. over | | |the plain. At mile 13 crosses Khor | | |Gwob, a wide open wadi with low | | |banks and thick bush. This Khor is | | |occasionally impassable when in | | |flood. About mile 16 the road | | |reaches the granite outcrops of | | |the foothills, and descends into a _Taharoi_ | 17 | 17 |wadi at Taharoi (mile 17), where | | |there are usually several wells | | |much resorted to for watering | | |flocks. This year only one well | | |and that almost dry. Depth to | | |water usually 10 feet. | | | | | |Tracks leads S. to Khor Tehela, | | |leaving J. Gumberit to E. At mile | | |20 usually a well, but dry this | | |year. Then S.W. into the Khor | | |Dahand at 25 miles; track enters | | |the hills and goes for 3 miles up | | |the easy valley. At mile 28 there | | |is _water in the hill_ to S. and | | |several Hadendoa tukls. | | | | | |Track then takes to hillside, | | |rising by zigzags up the end of a | | |spur. At first 1 in 6, then 1 in 4 | | |to the ridge, then very steeply 1 | | |in 3 to another col, by short | | |zigzags and rocky steps; very bad | | |for pack animals, but good hill | | |camels get up with light loads. | | |Track descends along hillside for | | |about 1 mile; all green, with | | |shrubs, grass and ferns. | | |Francolin, partridge and quail | | |plentiful. Some bad places in | | |descent, then easy path, and again | | |short difficult rise to the edge | | |of the Erkowit plateau. | | | | | |Total ascent from Khor Dahand a | | |little over 2,000 feet. | | | | | |Camels took 3 hours. The track is | | |not fit to ride over. | | | _Erkowit_ | 17 | 34 |After about ¾ mile Erkowit is | | |reached. | | | | | |Leaving this route at mile 20 a | | |track leads up Khor Masilli, S. of | | |Dahand; the bad ascent on this is | | |shorter, but equally bad, and the | | |whole distance is longer. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 7.—(α) ERKOWIT TO SINKAT, _viâ_ BARAMIL PLAINS. BY MAJOR POWELL, R.E., MARCH, 1903. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Erkowit | — | — |South over easy ground to head of | | |Khor Amrat, down the sandy bed of | | |the khor W.N.W. Leaving the khor | | |the track rises for ¼ mile over a | | |stony slope, reaching the Baramil | | |Plain at 4 miles from Erkowit. For | | |14 miles the track runs W.N.W. | | |over the firm surface of the | | |plains. Large herds of ariel are | | |seen, a few flocks and nomad | | |Arabs, but no water. Down stony | | |and occasionally narrow khor N.W. _Towai Wells_ | 18¾ | 18¾ |to Towai Wells, which are at side | | |of khor 12 feet deep. Water fair | | |and plentiful. | | | _Sinkat_ | 2¾ | 21½ |Down Khor Towai over a low stony | | |rise and descend W.N.W.; wide khor | | |until it joins the open Sinkat | | |Valley and reaches the well and | | |ruins of the old Fort at 21½ | | |miles. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- (β) ERKOWIT TO SINKAT, _viâ_ KHOR GEBET. BY MAJOR POWELL, R.E., MARCH, 1903. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Erkowit | — | — |Route descends the valley W.S.W. | | |from Erkowit by rocky surface | | |track over ridges and dips, rising | | |after 2½ miles by a stony ascent | | |to the edge of Baramil plateau. | | |This length is the worst part of | | |the route, it is practicable, but | | |not good for loaded camels, and is | | |easily capable of improvement by | | |unskilled labour. | | | | | |Along Baramil plateau, W. for | | |about 2 miles, then N.N.W. over | | |gentle ascent, and cross an easy | | |but stony agaba, and descent N. | | |down a khor leading to the open | | |valley of Gebet. No obstacle. _Gebet Well_ | 14¼ | 14¼ |Gentle descent N.W. to the well at | | |14¼ miles. Water good; large | | |flocks and herds; one well 30 feet | | |deep. Down the open valley W.N.W. | | |3 miles, where route is joined by | | |the direct track from Suakin to | | |Sinkat, _viâ_ the Sinkat agaba, | | |then W. 1 mile to a short stony | | |agaba leading into the Khor Abu | | |Shid, the main valley of which is | | |reached at mile 20. Thence easy | | |going over a wide wadi to Sinkat _Sinkat_ | 8¾ | 23 |at mile 23. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 8.—KASSALA TO SUAKIN, _viâ_ FILIK, MAMAN, AND KHOR SITARAB. BY LIEUT.-COL. MITFORD, APRIL, 1899. (_Corrected up to_ 1900.) --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Kassala | — | — |On leaving Kassala, a N. by W. | | |direction is taken over flat, | | |sandy ground, intersected by small | | |khors running into the Khor El | | |Gash; many low trees of the acacia | | |tribe and the green-leafed kurmet | | |bush, but passage among them easy | | |in any direction. | | | Khor Debeloeid| 5½ | 5½ |A shallow khor, flowing from | | |S.S.W. to N.N.E. two miles on; | | |this khor is recrossed, flowing | | |westward; here the trees are | | |thicker and taller. | | | Khor Gamam | 3½ | 9 |A branch of the Khor El Gash, 20 | | |feet deep, 15 to 20 yards wide; | | |proceeding down the khor for ½ | | |mile the wells are reached. Banks | | |thickly fringed with high | | |tamarisks; bush very close. | | | _Bir Gamam_ | ½ | 9½ |Two wells; now 12 feet deep, 3 | | |feet diameter; water plentiful. | | |Many wells exist now in this khor | | |for about 2 miles N. from this | | |point. After winding about in the | | |bush for a mile, country again | | |becomes open; many open spaces | | |half-a-mile to a mile in breadth. | | |Direction N. A good deal of | | |cultivation here. | | | Gamam | 5½ | 15 |Formerly a large Hadendoa hamlet; | | |its site now marked by a stony | | |mound to the E. known as Habuba. A | | |mile on one passes many skulls and | | |human bones scattered all over the | | |ground for some distance. This | | |spot was the scene of the first | | |encounter of the Kassala garrison | | |and the Dervishes in the winter of | | |1883-4. Later on Osman Digna had a | | |large standing camp of Hadendoa at | | |the same place. Arabs say “20,000 | | |young men” were collected there | | |and guarded by Baggara horsemen, | | |who, when food failed, refused to | | |let them leave; so many hundreds | | |died of starvation. | | | Hageror | 9 | 24 |The name of the district. At this | | |point, 1 mile W. of our route, is | | |the site of the old telegraph | | |maintenance post of the old | | |Suakin—Kassala telegraph line, | | |close to a branch of the Khor El | | |Gash (Khor Herbub). Arabs say | | |water can be found 10 to 15 feet | | |below the surface anywhere in this | | |khor; fringed with high trees. | | |Direction now is E.N.E.; country | | |as before, but cotton soil. | | | Khor Bahr | 3½ | 27½ |A shallow depression, 200 to 300 Shamil | | |yards broad, no defined banks, | | |thickly grown over by laot trees. | | | Khor Delai | 3 | 30½ |Twenty yards broad, 4 feet deep, | | |flowing W. High trees along banks. | | |At the 33rd mile the trees | | |disappear; country is cotton soil | | |with tussocks of grass, full of | | |holes and breaks away at every | | |step. Very bad going for men and | | |animals. As the Khor Herbub is | | |approached, grass, 3 feet high, | | |becomes thicker. | | | Khor Herbub | 10¾ | 41¼ |A branch of the Gash, 20 feet | | |broad, 20 feet deep. Proceed due | | |W. for 1¼ miles through high | | |trees. | | | _Bir Tokar_ | 1¼ | 42½ |One well,[7] 20 feet deep, 3 feet | | |diameter, 1 foot of water at | | |bottom of well. After drawing 400 | | |gallons supply was exhausted and | | |water came in very slowly. Water | | |good. Good grazing for horses and | | |camels, and plenty of shade. | | |Retracing one’s steps back across | | |the Khor Herbub, a direction 72° | | |(true) was taken and followed as | | |far as Khor Togan. Bad cotton soil | | |and tussocks of grass as before. | | | _Filik_ | 2½ | 45 |Formerly the largest and most | | |important collection of hamlets of | | |the Hadendoa of the Gash. Now no | | |traces, with the exception of | | |three charred dom palm trees, | | |which supported the roof of the | | |old telegraph maintenance post. | | |Many wells, and water plentiful in | | |Khor Tokar ½ mile W. | | | | | |Going very bad; at the 49th mile | | |belts of laot trees are passed | | |through. At the 53rd mile surface | | |of ground improves; more sandy, | | |with patches of small stones or | | |pebbles. | | | J. Tisheiga | 11 | 56 |One mile to right. Ground now | | |descends gently; several small | | |khors are crossed, running | | |westward; trees in khors and along | | |banks, kittr and samr. Ground | | |sandy, with occasional patches of | | |stones; excellent going. | | | Khor Yelkuk | 5 | 61 |Also called Telkuk. One hundred | | |yards broad, flowing westwards. | | |Ten miles up this khor are wells | | |and an Arab settlement. Many | | |trees; good grazing for camels. | | |Two miles to the north are low | | |black hills called J. Kadabu. | | |Country as before. | | | Khor Taugon | 5½ | 66½ |One hundred yards broad, banks 4 | | |feet high. One well here not yet | | |reopened, in bed of khor; high | | |trees and dom palms in bed and | | |along banks. Two and half miles E. | | |is J. Taugon. General direction | | |62°. | | | Khor Shamfeid | 2½ | 69 |A small khor running into Khor | | |Maman. Same direction being | | |followed, J. Maman with its four | | |peaks straight ahead. Ground rises | | |gently and then descends towards | | |the Khor Maman; with stones in | | |places. | | | Khor Maman | 6 | 75 |One hundred yards broad, banks 4 | | |feet high; many high trees and | | |doms; excellent grazing for | | |camels. Crossing the khor and | | |following up its right bank for 1½ | | |miles the wells are reached. Under | | |J. Maman are seen many hundreds of | | |stone huts, which, according to | | |the Arabs, were built many | | |centuries ago; also many large | | |stone graves. | | | _Bir Maman_ | 1½ | 76½ |Two wells, 40 feet deep, 3 feet | | |diameter, water good and plentiful | | |at all seasons. | | | | | |On leaving the wells, the track, | | |very faint, over stony ground, | | |made by the party constructing the | | |new telegraph line, was followed | | |for the next 40 miles. The | | |telegraph line itself is within | | |sight of the track on one side or | | |the other. Track proceeds up khor | | |for ¾ mile, then passes round S.E. | | |corner of J. Maman, and turns due | | |N. J. Maman on the W. and J. Tudab | | |on the E. form a pass, 1½ to 2 | | |miles broad; ground sandy, with | | |patches of stones; flat, good | | |going; several small khors are | | |crossed. | | | Khor Hashaneid| 6 | 82½ |One hundred yards broad, 3 feet | | |banks. Dom palms and trees. | | | Khor Tudab | 2 | 84½ | | | | Khor Fagada | 2 | 86½ | | | | Khor Toteb | 1 | 87½ |Eighty yards broad, 5 feet banks. | | |Runs into the Khor Kudameieb. Dom | | |palms, kittr, samr, and the | | |thornless kurmet trees. One and a | | |half miles E. is J. Yaied, some | | |1,500 feet high, and 6 to 7 miles | | |long, a mass of black basaltic | | |rock, steeply escarped on its | | |western side. | | | | | |For the next 12 miles, ground | | |traversed is hard sand, sloping | | |from hills on the E., and covered | | |with stones; very bad going; in | | |the small watercourses (during | | |rains) are belts of samr and kittr | | |trees. | | | Khor Gedamaieb| 4½ | 92 |Fifty yards broad, 6 feet banks. | | |Trees; 2 miles on, a similar khor | | |is crossed, bearing the same name. | | | | | |At 96½ miles the top of a | | |watershed is reached, and J. | | |Kureib comes in sight, E.N.E. J. | | |Bakutneb is some 3 or 4 miles to | | |the N. | | | Khor Abuladein| 7½ | 99½ |Twenty yards broad, 6 feet banks. | | |Ground now sandy, and more trees. | | | Khor Serera | 4 | 103½ |One hundred yards broad, 6 feet | | |banks. Dom palms. Runs into the | | |Khor Abu Ledein. | | | Khor Togul | 3¼ | 106¾ |Thirty yards broad, 3 feet banks. | | |Follow the khor 1 mile down | | |stream. | | | _Bir Ali | 1 | 107¾ |One well 40 feet deep, 2 feet 6 Kalai_ | | |inches diameter; water good, but | | |supply only 300 gallons at date, | | |and refilled very slowly. Khor | | |Weidab joins Khor Togul from the | | |S. lower down. | | | | | |Returning up the khor 1 mile, a | | |N.E. direction is taken. Ground | | |very stony and undulating, and | | |intersected by several large | | |khors. Trees in watercourses and | | |along banks of khor. The track | | |runs more or less parallel with J. | | |Kureib, 4 or 5 miles distant to | | |the E.; a range some 8 miles long, | | |2,300 feet (approximate) above the | | |general level, very precipitous on | | |western side; black basaltic | | |rocks. | | | Watershed | 9¼ | 117 |Up to this point all khors crossed | | |run into the Khor El Gash; | | |northwards of this watershed, | | |khors run into the Khor Langeb. | | | Khor Arideib | 4 | 121 |The direction of the new telegraph | | |line is left 3 miles before | | |reaching this khor. Direction | | |N.N.W. Low ground sandy, with | | |trees and grass; high ground stony | | |and rocky. | | | Khor Kei-Eiteb| 5 | 126 | | | | Khor Gambeleib| 1½ | 127½ |The downward course of this khor, | | |trending W. and S.W., is now | | |followed for 4½ miles; several | | |subsidiary khors join it from | | |either side. Water could probably | | |be found anywhere here, as trees | | |are finer and creepers are | | |festooned along the trees; many | | |kurmet bushes, marakh, and tundub; | | |good grazing for camels. | | | _Bir | 4 | 132 |Also called Bir Akrat. One well 50 Hamashaueb_ | | |feet deep, 3 feet diameter; water | | |good and plentiful. | | | | | |Returning up the khor for 2 miles | | |to where Khor Gambeleib joins Khor | | |Homashaueb, the upward course of | | |the latter khor is followed for 2 | | |miles, and then a N.N.E. direction | | |taken. Ground very stony and | | |rising; intersected by small khors | | |running from hills to the east. | | | Khor Omli | 12 | 144 |No defined banks; its course | | |marked by the trees. | | | _Khor | 4 | 148 |Also called Khor Kubri. One well Yaskalab_ | | |here 45 feet deep, 3 feet | | |diameter; water good, but supply | | |uncertain; it is generally dry at | | |this time of the year. | | | Khor Hedaweb | 5 | 153 |Similar to Khor Gambeleib. One and | | |half miles down the khor is Bir _Bir Hadaueb_ | 1 | 154 |Hedaweb. One well 9 feet deep, 3 | | |feet 6 inches diameter; water good | | |and plentiful; there is said to be | | |a better well 1 to 2 miles further | | |down the khor. | | | | | |On the south side of the khor, | | |close to the well, are the remains | | |of the old telegraph line | | |maintenance post. | | | | | |Returning up the khor ½ mile, a | | |branch khor coming in from the N. | | |is followed up past a large | | |graveyard. At the 156th mile this | | |khor is left, and the neck between | | |two rocky hills is crossed. Going | | |very bad; rough and stony. | | | Khor Belag | 6½ | 160½ |Two hundred yards broad, 2 feet | | |banks. Excellent grazing for | | |camels in this khor. For 7 miles | | |its downward course is followed. | | |Arabs say that it flows into Khor | | |Windi, but at 167½ miles the khor | | |appears dammed up with sand dunes | | |8 to 10 feet high, and its level | | |is the same as that of the | | |surrounding country. | | | Khor Hegadab | 8¼ | 168¾ |Flows towards the E. Ground | | |ascends, and a mile on a stony | | |pass between the hills is reached. | | |J. Adarabab now comes in sight, | | |noticeable from several chimney- | | |like rocks which stand up above | | |the general level of the top of | | |the range. A short descent, then a | | |sandy plain with patches of stones | | |in places. | | | Khor Windi | 4 | 172¾ |This khor is entered, and its | | |down-stream course followed for | | |the next 8 miles. No water now | | |obtainable in this khor; trees are | | |more stunted, and their leaves | | |more yellow and dried up than in | | |the preceding khors. At 177½ miles | | |is the site of the old telegraph | | |maintenance post and well, now | | |filled in many years ago. | | | | | |At 180 miles the khor is left, and | | |a plain traversed, alternately | | |sandy with tufts of grass and | | |stony; several narrow deep khors | | |are crossed. At 188¼ miles the | | |level of the country suddenly | | |drops some 20 feet. | | | | | |Tamarisk bushes and trees | | |commence. | | | Khor Langeb | 19¼ | 192 |One hundred and fifty to three | | |hundred yards broad, banks 15 to | | |20 feet high. Banks on either side | | |thickly fringed with tamarisk | | |trees; excellent grazing for | | |camels. Arabs are restarting | | |breeding camels in the vicinity of | | |this khor; one drove of nearly 300 | | |young camels were seen. One day | | |S.W. up this khor, Khor Odeib is | | |said to enter it; all the khors | | |already enumerated, from Khor | | |Areideb to Hedaweb inclusive, run | | |into Khor Odeib. Half a day to the | | |E. Khor Windi joins it. | | | _Bir | 1½ | 193½ |One and a quarter miles up this Tamashnauer_ | | |khor is the well; 25 feet deep, 3 | | |feet diameter; water plentiful, | | |but very smelly and brackish. | | |Arabs state that at present there | | |are no wells open further up the | | |khor; lower down are more wells | | |and a few pools. | | | | | |Returning ¾ mile down the khor, a | | |direction N. by E. is taken; | | |several small tributary khors are | | |crossed, and then ground ascends | | |gently and becomes stony. | | | | | |The next 45 miles is known as the | | |Wadi Ossir. J. Adarabab and Shaba | | |on the E., and a series of ranges | | |of hills on the W. form the sides, | | |8 to 10 miles apart. These hills | | |form a funnel through which the | | |wind blows steadily during the | | |winter months; sand storms very | | |frequent. | | | J. Karamriba | 4½ | 198 |Two black stony hills, 200 feet | | |high; ½ mile to W. | | | Eilogwa | 3 | 201 |In the hills to the E., 3 to 4 | | |miles from the track, are said to | | |be rock _cisterns with water_; | | |supply said to last from rains to | | |rains. | | | Khor Ossir | 5 | 206 |Flowing S.W. Runs into Khor | | |Langeb. | | | El Fogani | 2½ | 208½ |The same khor is recrossed, | | |flowing S.E. Good grazing along | | |and in this khor. | | | | | |Direction N.N.E. Ground still | | |rising gently; sandy, with | | |tamarisks bushes and samr trees, | | |very stunted, 4 to 5 feet high. | | |Some marakh and araag trees. | | |Occasional belts of stony ground. | | | Watershed | 16 | 224½ |Top of the watershed is reached; ½ | | |mile to W. is a low stony mound, | | |50 feet. Ground now falls from J. | | |Shaba range towards the western | | |hills. | | | Khor Shenkerat| 5 | 229½ |Three to four miles to E.; in the | | |hills are said to be _rock | | |cisterns_. The old telegraph | | |maintenance post is under the | | |hills. Ground now becomes very | | |stony, falling towards the W. and | | |N.; in the shallow depression | | |between the flat spurs are | | |Abyssinian aloes. Three miles on | | |ground becomes more sandy, and | | |samr, marakh, and some laurel-like | | |bushes are passed through, | | |becoming thicker as the khor is | | |approached. | | | Khor Ossir El | 9 | 238½ |Fifty to one hundred yards broad, Tahtani | | |5 feet banks; flows N.E. The range | | |of hills on the E. now terminates. | | |A sandy plain is now crossed; | | |scattered samr, etc. | | | J. Meiz | 5 | 243½ |A low conical hill is passed close | | |to the track to the E. 3 to 4 | | |miles to the W. in the range of | | |hills Arabs point out J. Maiz, | | |where _water_ is said to be | | |plentiful. | | | | | |For 2 miles stony ground, then | | |sandy again; track passes through | | |several groups of low detached | | |hills. At 254½ miles ground | | |becomes more cut up with khors, | | |and gradually ascends and becomes | | |very stony; the last mile into | | |Khor Siterab is a stony defile; | | |going very bad and in single file. | | |A sharp ascent into the khor. | | | _Khor Sitarab_| 16½ | 260 |A rocky khor 20 to 50 yards wide; | | |bounded by hills 40 to 60 feet | | |high on either side. In the bed of | | |the khor are great blocks of | | |granite, through the interstices | | |of which percolates water, which | | |collects in the clay bed of the | | |khor and forms small pools at | | |close intervals all down the khor, | | |averaging 15 to 20 feet long, 2 to | | |4 feet broad, and 6 inches deep. | | |Water very brackish, osher bushes, | | |a few tamarisks, shush grass and | | |reeds grow in the bed of the khor. | | | | | |From the khor a well defined track | | |runs all the way to Suakin. For 4 | | |miles ground is very stony and | | |broken; few sammur trees. | | | Khor Alifeyeit| 4 | 264 |Two hundred yards broad, 10 feet | | |banks, sandy bed. Ground now | | |becomes sandy, and trees thicker; | | |samr, araag, heglig, labakh and | | |tundub trees. Gow grass during and | | |after rains; good sheep grazing | | |ground. | | | Khors Sedayat,| 5 | 269 |These four khors are all crossed Ashat, Erim, | | |in 1½ miles; no defined tracks; and Shadat | | |trees and bush in bed and | | |alongside the khors. A few miles | 1½ | 270½ |eastwards these khors open out | | |into the plain. For the next 3½ | | |miles ground is stony. | | | Khor Issi or | 1½ | 272 |Fifty yards broad, 2 feet banks. Issei | | | | | | Khor Sarobai | 2 | 274 |No defined tracks; sandy; trees | | |and bush. | | | Khor Wintri | 4¼ | 278¼ |A point of crossing; this khor has | | |commenced to divide up into | | |branches. | | | | | |Four miles on J. Gumberit is | | |passed 1 mile to the W. Country | | |more open; eastward a clear view | | |down to the sea. | | | Khor Gwob | 10¾ | 289 |One hundred to two hundred broad, | | |shallow, no defined banks. Ground | | |descends gently, and on reaching | | |the ridge, ¾ mile distant, the | | |town of Suakin comes in sight. | | |Trees become fewer and bushes Suakin | 8 | 297 |lower. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 9.—TOKAR TO KASSALA, _viâ_ KHOR BARAKA. (VARIOUS.) [Sidenote: Grazing.] Plenty for camels, &c., all along the route. [Sidenote: Water.] Anywhere for the digging, except between Khor Lokweb and Khor Ali Gebrat, 28 miles, and between the latter and Kassala, 18 miles. [Sidenote: Camping ground.] Good anywhere along the route. [Sidenote: Wood.] Plenty for fuel and for making rough shelters. [Sidenote: Going.] On the whole excellent for camels, horses, &c. Convoys should not take more than 14 days to do the journey from Suakin. Parties without heavy baggage should do it easily in 9 days. N.B.—As the major portion of this route leads through Italian territory, it is not now generally used south of Khor Langeb (_vide_ note to Khor Langeb, 51st mile). --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Tokar | — | — |Leaving Tokar, the track runs a | | |little west of south across the | | |plains, leaving the Khor Baraka | | |channel to the west. | | | | 10 | 10 |Traversing a broken tract, covered | | |with eminences strewn with sand, | | |enter the Khor Baraka. Vegetation | | |on much larger scale; tall | | |tamarisk trees. Channel 50 yards | | |broad; hard sand; excellent going; | | |banks 10 to 12 feet high, and | | |thickly wooded. | | | | | |There are more routes than one; | | |sometimes along the channel, or on | | |either bank, according to season | | |or circumstances. Broadly, the | | |Beni Amer inhabit the eastern | | |bank, and the Hadendoa the | | |western. | | | _Temeren_ | 2 | 12 |(Tamenrê = 10 wells.) The wells | | |here, two in number, are situated | | |in the bed of the Khor Baraka, | | |depth about 20 feet, and produce | | |plenty of water of a brackish | | |nature. Another account (1897) | | |says two wells, close to fort; one | | |well only used, good water 50 feet | | |down. The khor here is about 80 | | |paces wide, with low banks, and is | | |comparatively bare of trees. | | |During the floods of the Baraka, | | |these wells are flushed, the water | | |being thick and impregnated with | | |alluvial mud. The country on the | | |left bank is open and stony, and | | |remains so until the line of the | | |Jebel Shaba hills is reached. To | | |the right bank of the khor a | | |certain amount of cultivation | | |exists, which increases in amount | | |as the Tokar delta is reached. | | |Heina range visible to south. | | | | | |Jebel Shaba lies 26 miles W.S.W. | | |of Temeren; track to it clearly | | |marked over stony plain by | | |occasional stone heaps. Contains | | |grass, ravines, shrubs, and | | |_numerous pools of water_ (July); | | |one large deep pool at foot of | | |hill containing water all year | | |round. Good look-out post in all | | |directions. | | | | | |The route, after leaving Temeren, | | |bears for a mile or so south-east | | |to avoid the numerous sand dunes | | |and drifts lying close to the | | |right bank of the khor, and then | | |changes southwards. | | | | 2 | 14 |A belt of considerable bush is now | | |passed through, after which the | | |country becomes open, rough, and | | |sandy; the khor about ½ a-mile to | | |the right-hand side. | | | _Well_ | 1 | 15 |One well; good water. | | | | | |The route continues in a generally | | |southerly direction, passing | | |through sand dunes, covered with a | | |considerable growth of tamarisk | | |bushes sufficiently high to | | |conceal a mounted man. | | | | 1 | 16 |Khor Toshikh joins the Baraka on | | |the west bank; route enters the | | |Baraka. | | | | | |Here large khor also runs in from | | |the east, main channel now from 30 | | |to 40 yards wide, banks varying to | | |30 feet high. Natives say the | | |whole of this bit of country for a | | |mile west, and to Jebel Haina | | |east, is under water in the rainy | | |season. Tamarisk bushes line each | | |side, nothing can be seen from the | | |channel. | | | | | |Seven miles on, track leaves the | | |khor, runs west on a sandy plain | | |for a mile. Eleven miles on a | | |black hill 150 feet high runs from | | |west bank half across the khor. | | | | | |The hill of Haina runs down to top | | |of channel on east side; a narrow | | |gorge is thus made, through which | | |the rush of water at flood is very | | |great. When it is a very high | | |flood, a channel is also formed | | |round the west side of the hill. | | |Just beyond this there are some | | |old disused wells in the channel Lower | 7 | 23 |that were known as Lower Debetawateb | | |Debetawateb. After this, the khor | | |opens out to about 800 yards wide, | | |sand dunes and scrub everywhere, | | |track winds round almost due west, _Upper | 3½ | 26½ |and reaches Upper Debetawateb, Debetawateb_ | | |where there are two wells, plenty | | |of good water, close to surface. | | |Track leaves channel here and runs | | |½ mile through thick jungle on to | | |east bank, and then winds round | | |south over sandy plain. Five miles | | |on, guide pointed due west to | | | _Odwan_ | 5 | 31½ |Odwan, lying in the khor, one | | |well. Eight miles on, hills of | | |Shaba and Heina run down to banks | | |of channel, track leads east of | | |some low hills, and khor is seen | | |winding west a good deal. | | | Tefadi | 5 | 36½ |Some large sand hills in khor, | | |guide said this was Tefadi. No | | |well, but water easily got by | | |digging. Track now leads over bad | | |ground broken up by watercourses, | | |sand dunes, &c., and re-enters | | |channel 4 miles on, then leaves it | | |and runs on to west bank, winding | | |gradually south-west into Khor Laiameib | 6½ | 43 |Farag Salem. (Laiameib.) | | | _Farag Saleib_| 3 | 46 |Here there are 12 or more pools of | | |water, rather salt. This khor runs | | |south-east into Khor Baraka, and | | |where it meets it, there is a | | |small stone enclosure on a hill | | |held by Arabs under Sheikh Abu | | |Fatma, called Langeb. There is one | | |well in valley at foot of hill. | | | | | |From Khor Farag Salem is seen | | |Jebel Ada Abab, about 10 miles to | | |the south-west. The track runs | | |from this khor south-east, then | | |south-west over rocky ground, | | |skirting the Khor Baraka, of which | | |the east bank is lined with hills. | | | Khor Langeb[8]| 5 | 51 |Five miles on track enters | | |channel, and 100 yards further | | |Khor Langeb[8] runs in from the | | |west, about 25 yards wide, and | | |described as similar to Khor | | |Baraka. Directly afterwards the | | |track leaves khor and proceeds for | | |8 miles over stony ground on west | | |bank, and then for 11 miles over | | |alternate rocky and sandy plains, | | |direction south, then re-enters | | |khor and passes pool of dirty | | |water, and after heavy going in | | |the channel reaches two pools with | | |any quantity of clear sweet water, _Tebhateit_ | 23 | 74 |called Tebhateit. | | | | | |[Other accounts of the road from | | |Khor Toshikh to Tebhateit are as | | |follows:— | | | | 10 | 22 |At 10 miles from Temeren a large | | |number of sandhills are reached, | | |covered with a good deal of scrub | | |and tamarisk trees. These | | |sandhills proceed from the | | |neighbourhood of the khor towards | | |the Jebel Heina; they are not of | | |any height, but would form | | |admirable concealment for horse | | |and foot men. After passing | | |through the sandhills, the route | | |re-enters the khor, being the | | |first point the khor is touched | | |since Temeren. The khor here is | | |about 50 paces wide, with a firm | | |sandy bottom, fringed by scrub, | | |though not of a dense character. | | | | | |There is also a track along the | | |west bank of the Khor Baraka from | | |Temeren to Langeb (Junker’s road), | | |but it is bad, leading through | | |thick bush and wood, and much | | |broken by numerous small khors. | | | _Debetawateb_ | 3 | 25 |Wells. About 35 water holes 5 feet | | |deep, situated close to west bank | | |of khor. Wells mostly together, | | |water brackish (April). The wells | | |are placed in what practically is | | |a gorge. The left bank rises in a | | |rocky hill from 150 to 200 feet | | |high, and gradually falls away | | |into a wide open stony plain, | | |which, with occasional rocky | | |isolated hills, extends to the | | |high mountain of Jebel Shaba. On | | |the right bank the hills are | | |higher, formed into numerous | | |peaks, the hills gradually losing | | |themselves in the Jebel Haina. The | | |rush of water down this gorge is | | |very considerable when the Baraka | | |is in flood; it is said to be of | | |such force as to sweep a camel | | |with ease before it. The hills of | | |this gorge would form a fair | | |position; though, perhaps, capable | | |of being turned by the west. Such | | |dense scrub approaches to within a | | |few yards of the south side of the | | |hill on the left bank that it | | |would enable an enemy on the hill | | |to defend himself from this bush | | |with reasonable prospects of | | |success, and make it a difficult | | |operation to touch the top of the | | |ridge of the hills without | | |carrying the bush. This gorge | | |would seem to be the best place to | | |put a barrage, should such a work | | |ever be contemplated. After | | |leaving the wells the route | | |follows the khor, which now opens | | |out very considerably. The west | | |bank is covered with dense bush, | | |mostly tamarisk trees; the east | | |bank has a considerable amount of | | |bush, but the belt is not so broad | | |or so high as that on the opposite | | |bank. | | | | 2 | 27 |After about ¾ hour is reached a | | |large patch of dura crop planted | | |in the bed of the khor, dense bush | | |continuing on the left bank; after | | |½ hour, reach a few water holes on | | |the right side of the khor, | | |evidently used for the cultivation | | |of the above-mentioned dura. After | | |passing the cultivation the khor | | |maintains the same general | | |appearance. | | | | | |From here a short cut may be made | | |to Tamatu by leaving the khor, and | | |marching over a scrubby plain, | | |going rough, and cut up by small | | |khors and hills. | | | | | |The path now leads by the right | | |bank of the khor, and clear of it; | | |the ground here is much cut up by | | |ravines and watercourses, covered | | |with dense bush, in fact might be | | |described as a regular jungle. | | |After passing this rough ground | | |the khor is again struck at | | | _Odwan_ | 4 | 31 |The khor here is in a channel 16 (meaning great| | |to 18 feet deep; the channel waterpot). | | |bifurcates, the old bed passing in | | |a westerly direction, the new | | |cutting for itself a passage in a | | |more northerly direction. Pools | | |here before the Baraka floods, | | |running water in winter. No | | |definite wells. On 16th July, | | |1894, the khor here was a rapid | | |stream, 40 to 50 yards broad, and | | |4 feet deep. | | | | | |Khor takes sharp bend to the west. | | |Bush on either bank very dense; | | |tamarisks and bushes bound | | |together with bright green | | |creepers. | | | _Tamatu_ (or | 6 | 37 |Fifty wells near west (?) bank of Tefadi?) | | |khor, 5 feet deep; water brackish. | | | | | |Route now goes along bed of khor, | | |good going, muddy soil with | | |patches of sand. Banks 4 feet high | | |and densely wooded. Four miles (?) | | |on, the khor is left, and an open | | |plain to the west crossed, covered | | |with scattered scrub, ground | | |generally stony. Spurs of Shaba | | |range extend to within half mile | | |of khor. | | | _Laiameib_ | 8 | 45 |Lies a mile to the west of the | | |Khor Baraka, and is reached by | | |proceeding up a stony tributary | | |khor with occasional trees, a few | | |dom palms marking the entrance to | | |the khor. This point is called | | |Khashm Lwi (?); sides of khor 50 | | |to 100 feet high. The wells lie at | | |the foot of a mass of irregular | | |rocks, which stop further advance. | | | | | |The reservoir of rain water is | | |situated under the rocks, and is | | |reached by a narrow downward | | |passage which finally opens into a | | |subterranean cave. The entrance to | | |the cave is sufficiently high and | | |wide to admit the passage of two | | |horses at the same time. The | | |water, perhaps 6 feet deep, is of | | |excellent quality and most | | |delicious to drink, covering about | | |15 feet square, and taking up the | | |greater part of the cave. | | | Khor Farag | 3 | 48 |Three miles south of the Khor Saleib | | |Laiameib, the Khor Farag Saleib is | | |crossed. Here the Baraka forms a | | |lake in flood time. | | | Langeb | 3 | 51 |The entrance to the khor of that | | |name, which trends south-west from | | |here. | | | _Tebhateit_ | 12 | 63 |Good wells; ground hilly. Jebel | | |Haggr, 6,000 feet. | | | | | |(From this point Captain McKerrell | | |is the authority.) | | | | | |After Tebhateit (74 miles) the | | |track now runs on to east bank, | | |and winds gradually south over | | |broken rocky ground; 5 miles on | | |re-enters khor, and runs through | | |dense mass of tamarisk and scrub | | |into channel 100 yards wide here, | | |and khor ½ to ¾ mile wide. | | | _Ambakta_ | 8 | 82 |Shortly afterwards reach Khor | | |Ambakta, with one well. This is | | |where Sudan-Eritrea boundary meets | | |the Baraka on the east bank. Jebel | | |Senad, to the west, is a good | | |landmark here, and Jebel Ayob, on | | |east. Channel now twists about a | | |good deal, then runs south-west; | | |both banks lined with hills. | | | _Hakhal_ | 8 | 90 |Eight miles on is Hakal; one well, | | |6 feet down, good water. | | | _Adardeb_ | 9 | 99 |Track continues south-west and | | |enters Eritrean territory, and 9 | | |miles on reaches Adardeb, with | | |three wells, 4 feet down; good | | |water. Three miles on channel | | |splits up and runs east and west; | | |track leads over ground between. | | |Very bad going over ground broken | | |up by watercourses and sand dunes | | |for next 6 miles; channel is then | | |re-entered and Khor Salha is | | |reached. | | | _Khor Salha_ | 10 | 109 |Five wells, 4 feet down, good | | |water. This is a large khor Khor Anseba | — | — |running in from the east, and is | | |itself joined by Khor Anseba, | | |about 10 miles east, which latter | | |khor comes from south-east. From | | |here Jebel Adarkalab, a very high | | |hill, is seen due south, and Jebel | | |Skena due west, a cone-shaped | | |hill. Track leaves channel here | | |and runs along east bank, passing, | | |3 miles on, two stone pepper pots, | | |built by Dervishes. Bad going over | | |very broken ground, intersected by | | |watercourses, for next 8 miles; | | |then re-enters channel and reaches | | |four wells, water 4 feet down, and | | |some small rain pools, from one of | | |which two fish were caught. One Jebel Sotai | 9 | 118 |hundred yards on is Jebel Sotai on | | |west, and Jebel Adarkalab on east, | | |bank; latter swarming with grey | | |monkeys. These hills are about 60 | | |yards apart, and the rush of water | | |between them at flood must be very | | |great. | | | _Akiduli | 4 | 122 |Four miles on is a black rock, (Koliteb?)_ | | |called “Akiduli,” on east bank, | | |with figures of camels, men, and | | |ostriches scratched over it. Water | | |here also in pools and old wells, | | |in places only 2 feet down. | | |Further on is Khor Attai, with | | |wells; water good, and 4 feet _Khor Attai_ | 2 | 124 |down. | | | | | |Track now runs south, and hills | | |recede on either side; khor | | |widening to about a mile east and | | |west; channel 100 yards, and | | |shallow, lined with thick tamarisk | | |and bush. Thirteen miles on passed | | |several wells, old and new, and | | |later khor contracts and hills run _Kolik_ | 18 | 142 |down on either flank; reach Kolik. | | | | | |Jebel Koreb is seen here, a | | |landmark to the west. There is | | |water. Then track leaves khor and | | |crosses west on to a wide, fairly | | |open, sandy plain. Long range of | | |black hills on east, running with | | |khor, country west much more open | | |and hills far away. Six miles on, _Khor | 6 | 148 |cross Khor Tamaguanti, running Tamaguanti_ | | |south-west, which is lined with | | |dom palms, has an old well with | | |good water, and a few inhabitants. | | |Track continues over plain passing | | |“Mala” of Sheikh Abu Tahir, who | | |was head of the Hadendoa tribe in | | |Mohammed Ali’s time. Here there | | |are between 200 and 300 graves; | | |plain is covered with coarse grass | | |and acacia. | | | _Khor Lokweb_ | 11 | 159 |Track now leaves Khor Baraka and | | |enters Khor Lokweb, a large khor | | |running into the Baraka from the | | |south-west; channel, lined with | | |any number of dom palms, 100 yards | | |wide; banks 15 to 20 feet high. | | |Two good wells here, water 5 feet | | |down; track continues in khor, | | |direction south-west, for 2 miles | | |and comes to two new wells, water | | |6 feet down. Then leaves khor to | | |avoid heavy sand, and runs | | |parallel to it on west bank, but | | |here also going is bad, over very | | |broken ground covered with bush. | | |Eight miles on track runs over | | |rocky ground, two hills appear on | | |both flanks. Sixteen miles on | | |passes old stone house on hill to | | |left and shortly after re-enters _Khashm El | 19 | 178 |Khor Lokweb at spot called Khashm Kawab_ | | |El Kawab, where there were two | | |wells, water 3 feet down, slightly | | |salt. Track now runs south-west | | |and then for 8 miles west. Channel | | |blocked by large stone boulders | | |after first mile, bad going | | |through deep sand, dom palms on | | |both banks, also saw two withered | | |Tebeldis with edible fruit like an | | |elongated pear. Six miles on _Khashm | 6 | 184 |reached three wells called Khashm Hodelt_ | | |Hodelt. Eight miles on, left khor | | |and marched west over plain, | | |covered with acacia, &c. Then re- _Khashm | 6 | 190 |entered khor and reached three at Ribdab_ | | |Khashm Ribdab, good water. | | | | | |No water for the next 28 miles. | | | | | |Track leaves Khor Lokweb now, | | |which runs west, and enters Khor | | |Ribdab. Channel 50 to 100 yards | | |wide, with low banks covered with | | |bush, hard sandy bottom, excellent | | |going, direction due south. | | |Sighted here, due south, curious | | |grey hill, with top sticking up Jebel | 8 | 198 |like a chimney, called Jebel Irkit Irkit-Anob | | |Anob, a good land mark. Natives | | |said no one had ever been able to | | |climb to its top. Three miles on | | |reached plain, where the old | | |Mamuria stood. Five miles on | | |passed close to the above- | | |mentioned hill, leaving it on our | | |left. Track shortly afterwards | | |leaves khor and runs west over | | |plain of acacia, coarse grass, &c. | | |Nine miles on reached hill called | | |Tiniki, with a single thorn tree | | |on its east shoulder, moved round | | |its east flank in single file into | | |plain beyond; direction west, bad | | |going, and axes had to be used in | | |places. Fifteen miles on sighted | | |Jebel Kassala to south-west. Bush- | | |grown plain. Shortly after track | | |passes between low hills on the Jebel | 16 | 214 |right, called Shushaieb, and a Shushaieb | | |large burying ground on left, | | |called “Balad Ali Gabret,” and Khor Ali | 4 | 218 |enters shortly after khor of that Gabret | | |name, running south and west, with | | |six wells of good water, 4 feet | | |below surface. Plenty of shade. | | |Jebel Sabderat is seen on left | | |front. | | | | | |Track now leaves khor and runs | | |south-west over grassy park-like | | |plain, covered with bush, &c. Bad | | |going in places. Seven miles on | | |sighted Jebel Mokram and, passing Kassala | 18 | 236 |it on our left, reached Kassala, 3 | | |miles further on. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 10.—KASSALA TO MAMAN DIRECT. BY CAPTAIN H. H. MORANT, APRIL, 1900. [Sidenote: General Remarks.] The most direct road to Maman is the old telegraph route which leaves Kassala in N.N.E. direction past the north end of J. Mokram, and after following the new telegraph line for about 10 miles then turns nearly due north and leaves the new telegraph to the east. Country: good going, covered with scattered bush, but thicker along khors, some of which are more or less serious obstacles in the rains. Though water is not plentiful along this route it was sufficient in April, 1900, to enable a party of 50 Camel Corps, 2 horses, 50 natives on foot, and 2,000 head of cattle and sheep to reach the wells at Tukruf, near Kassala, without any special arrangements for water. Maman is on the direct road to Suakin: for portion of route to Suakin N. of Maman, _vide_ Route 8. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Kassala | — | — | | | | _Khor Girger | 19 | 19 |Bir Galgal in Khor Girger; very (Wells)_ | | |little water in April, 1900. | | | | | |From here the track continues | | |N.N.E. by N., passing about midway | | |between Jebels Roreb and Shushaieb | | |to the northern extremity of the | | |latter, where there are several | | |wells in the khor called _Tendelai-i ( | 12 | 31 |Tendelai-i. These wells had also Wells)_ | | |very little water. From here the | | |track continues in the same | | |direction, good going, country | | |open and grassy, scattered bush | | |except along khors, several of _Khor Telkuk_,| 20 | 51 | which are crossed, to Khor Telkuk, or El Ku, or | | |before reaching which Jebel Obillit | | |Obillit is passed about 2 miles to | | |the west. There was said to be a | | |well in the khor somewhere near | | |this jebel. From here to Maman, | | |country very open; good hard going | | |and short grass. Three more khors | | |are crossed, chief of which is | 9 | 60 |Togan. | | | _Maman_ | 5 | 65 |The wells in K. Maman. Many | | |Gemilab Hadendoas here. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 11.—ADARAMA TO BIR OSHI (KHOR LANGEB). BY CAPTAIN KENRICK, 11TH HUSSARS, SEPTEMBER, 1901. N.B.—The localities of wells and water in the country described in both the following Route Reports depend largely on the season and the year, and to a great extent on local rain storms. Much reliance cannot therefore be placed on previous reports. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Adarama | — | — |After leaving Adarama the road | | |goes E. for about 6 miles over | | |sandy soil covered with tufts of | | |dry tabas grass. Jebel Asoteribab | | |is visible to the S.E. Khor Amab | | |is then crossed; this is always | | |dry, I was told; it comes from | | |S.E., and runs a little way | | |further to the N. Osman Digna is | | |said to have had his extreme E. | | |outpost of 20 men here to levy | | |blackmail on anyone coming to | | |Berber. There are acacia bushes in | | |this khor. Two miles after | | |crossing the khor, the range Jebel Jebel Tobrar | 2 | 8 |Tobrar comes into view. All bushes | | |cease here, and for 4 or 5 miles | | |the way is over an undulating | | |sandy country with tufts of | | |withered grass. On descending a Khor Shedieb | 5 | 13 |low sandy hill, Khor Shedieb is | | |met running S.W. and draining a | | |black, light sandy plain running | | |E. and W., along which the way | | |proceeds for 6 miles; low sand | | |hills to the S. The plain is | | |treeless, except a few stunted | | |bushes in Khor Shedieb. After | | |marching E. over this plain the | | |sand hills begin to close in at a El Yukreik | 7 | 20 |place called El Yukreik, where | | |there is a little shade from a few | | |small tundub bushes; this is said | | |to be full of water and green | | |grass in a rainy year, but it is | | |quite dry now; this is about 20 | | |miles distant from Adarama. The | | |direction is then eastwards | | |through a succession of valleys | | |shut in by low sand hills running | | |N. and S. about 3 miles by 3 | | |miles. One valley, just before | | |entering the Hegerib Plain in _Bir Kerikun_ | 15 | 35 |which Bir Kerikun lies, is full of | | |bushes and is cotton soil, but not | | |bad going; there must be a good | | |deal of water all over this | | |country in a good year, but it is | | |quite dry now. There is no grass | | |for horses the whole way; the | | |going is good, but a little heavy | | |over the sand hills from one | | |valley to another, and also, | | |except just when entering Wadi | | |Hegerib, 3 miles before reaching | | |Bir Kerikun. | | | | ¾ | 35¾ |On leaving Bir Kerikun, march N. | | |about ¾ mile to get over the low | | |sand hills, the way then goes E. | | |and slightly N. The road winds a | | |little when passing over the sand | | |hills to get out of the valleys, | | |which are exactly similar to those | | |about 12 miles before Kerikun, | | |except that there are more selem | | |or samr bushes in them, which give | | |a fair amount of shade. Just | | |before entering Wadi Todabanob | | |there is a valley which the Arabs | | |told me is capital grazing in a | | |good year. | | | Khor Shanfaiet| — | — |Khor Shanfaiet comes in at the | | |S.W. corner of this valley. Large | | |graveyard of Shebodinab Arabs | | |here. Going good; sand a little | | |heavy across the sand hills. No | | |grass fit for horses. On entering _Todabanob_ | 13¼ | 49 |Wadi Todabanob the wells lie at | | |the foot of a sand hill. They are | | |about 8 in number (though there | | |are others quite filled up in | | |other parts of the valley); three | | |only of these are open, and two of | | |these only had water in them; they | | |are unlined. They were:— | | | | | |Depth to water 14 feet. | | | | | |Depth of water 2½ feet (approx.). | | | | | |Circumference 3¼ feet. | | | | | |I got about 3 camel fantasses full | | |out of them. I have now learnt | | |from three sources that it was, as | | |I suspected at the time, only rain | | |water from the shower two nights | | |before. They are now almost dry. | | |Excellent shade in Todabanob from | | |large sayal trees; no grass; must | | |be swamp in a wet year. No Arabs | | |at all on the route. Wadi | | |Todabanob runs N. and S. Khor | | |Derudeb comes in at S. E. (about). | | | J. Sanai | — | — |After passing eastwards over the | | |sand hills leading out of Wadi | | |Todabanob, J. Sanai comes into J. Ararab | — | — |view in the E., and J. Ararab to | | |S.E.; after a switchback course of | | |about 2½ miles over the sand hills Wadi Shakauni | 2½ | 51½ |the road drops into Wadi Shakauni, | | |half of which is covered with | | |withered Tabas grass, and a little | | |green grass, tundub bushes, and | | |Senna, the remaining half barren | | |sand; this is crossed after | | |marching 3 miles. On ascending a | | |slight ridge the sand hills are | | |left, and Khor Derudeb comes into | | |sight about 6 miles off, running | | |in a half-circle from N.E. to S.W. J. Tebilol | — | — |J. Tebilol, in the E., is also | | |sighted. The ground just before Khor Derudeb | — | — |coming to Khor Derudeb, as in the | | |low-lying parts of all these | | |khors, is cotton soil, but the | | |going is not bad. About 12 miles | | |from Bir Todabanob, Khor Derudeb | | |is crossed at a point called El _El Garud_ | 9½ | 61 |Garud, where there are rain pits; | | |these cannot be relied on for | | |water. The way now goes eastwards | | |for about 11 miles over a stony | | |plain, but good going on tracks, J. Tebilol | — | — |past J. Tebilol and Khor El Ashob. | | |There was very little water when I _Khor El | 10½ | 71½ |came here, but a violent storm Ashob_ | | |came on in the night and brought | | |down the khor; after such a storm | | |there is plenty of water, | | |sufficient, I think, to last for | | |four or five months. There was one | | |large pool of water, 40 yards | | |long, 8 yards broad, and 10 feet | | |deep. Plenty of shade near the | | |khor, and good grass on the banks. | | |The plain just before Khor El | | |Ashob is treeless; the going the | | |whole way is good. | | | Jebel | — | — |The road goes eastwards through Wararaweb | | |the pass of J. Wararaweb, but | | |there are several miles (3) of | | |cotton soil to pass first. The | | |pass itself is very stony, broken | | |ground and bad going for about 3 Khor Hambokeb | | |of 4 more miles. Then S.E. over a | | |very stony plain for 10 miles to Khor Godamaieb| — | — |Khor Godamaieb; this plain is | | |crossed by small khor, near which | | |and in which there is always a | | |little green grass and some shade. | | |Khor Godamaieb was dry. The well _Tisharam_ | 38½ | 110 |Tisharam is on the west bank, and | | |is a very good one, though | | |unlined; its dimensions were:— | | | | | | Depth to water 9 feet. | | | | | | Depth of water (good) 5 feet. | | | | | | Circumference 7 feet. | | | | | |I was told Osman Digna usually | | |went _viâ_ Khor El Ashob, Bir | | |Delai and Khor Delai to Khor Araf. | | |Plenty of dom palms on each bank, | | |some coarse green grass; remains | | |of a very large old well filled | | |up. | | | | | |Cross Khor Godamaieb, about 50 | | |yards wide, march N.E. over a road | | |for the most part stony, except 2½ | | |miles from Khor Godamaieb, where Khor Angwatiri| 2½ | 112½ |Khor Angwatiri is crossed; there | | |is green grass in plenty, and some | | |shade from thorn bushes. It was | | |full of Gemilab Arabs and their | | |flocks, who water away to the E. _Khor Amboreb_| 7½ | 120 |in Khor Amboreb, where there are | | |some pools of water. After 5 miles | | |further you enter the hills, and | | |there are 4 miles of very bad | | |stony going in and out of small | | |khors in the midst of stony | | |mountains till you descend into Khor Barshoi | 4 | 124 |Khor Barshoi, about 1 mile long, | | |with dom palms on both banks; then | | |Khor Araf comes in from the N.W., | | |and the way to Khor Langeb is up | | |this khor, averaging 30 or 40 | | |yards in width, thick dom trees on | | |either bank, coarse green grass in | | |places, but not in any great | | |quantity. The mountains all | | |through run down to the dom palms _Khor Araf_ | 6 | 130 |on the banks of the Khor Araf on | | |each side; away in the distance | | |are some very high stony peaks. A | | |very few Gemilab were in the khor. | | |The going on the whole is very | | |good in the khor, except in a few | | |places where the sand is heavy. | | |About 5 miles from junction of | | |Khor Araf with Khor Barshoi was a | | |pool of rain water near the left | | |bank, about 15 yards long, 4 yards | | |broad, and 2 feet deep. The pool _El Getite_ | 11 | 141 |to be relied on is El Getite, on | | |left bank of Khor Araf, about 16 | | |miles from junction of Khor Araf | | |and Khor Barshoi, and 31 from Bir | | |Tisharam; it is rainwater and will | | |last 4 months. It is close up to | | |the rock where the hills run down | | |into the khor. It is 209 yards | | |long, 10 yards broad, and 10 or 12 | | |feet deep. Muddy water, but quite | | |wholesome. | | | _Umna Dunyin_ | 10 | 151 |The road then goes on down Khor | | |Araf with many twists and turns | | |till the pool of rain-water called | | |_Umna Dunyin_ is reached, about 10 | | |miles from El Getite, but 15 yards | | |long and about 6 yards broad, 4 or | | |5 feet deep in the centre, will | | |probably last 2 months more. After | | |2½ miles from Umna Dunyin, J. | | |Hambolib is in sight, round which | | |the khor twists for about 3 miles, J. Hambolib | 2½ | 153½ |till the _wells_ called _J. | | |Hambolieb_ are passed. They are | | |filled up with sand, and only a | | |person who knew them well would | | |know they had ever existed. | | |However, I was told there is water | | |underneath; if so, a small fatigue | | |party could clean out the sand in | | |a few hours. I think Khor Langeb | | |joins Khor Araf just near here, | | |running due E. here. Dom palms, | | |tarfa jungle, and small quantity | | |of green grass on the banks. Five | | |miles up this khor, on left bank, _Bir Oshi_ | 4½ | 158 |is Bir Oshi, at mouth of small | | |Khor Oshi; the same remarks apply | | |to Bir Oshi as to Bir Araf. _Bir | | |Gabati_, slightly further on, I | | |was told is the same. There is, I | | |am told, water in _Khor Odi_, and | | |a big _pool at Areiwat_, and no | | |lack of water further on. On the | | |right bank on entering Khor Langeb | | |are some graves on a hill, said to | | |be the graves of Roman soldiers; | | |the Hadendoas are afraid of | | |opening them, though they think | | |there is treasure there. | | | | | |Bir Oshi is distant about 48 miles | | |from Bir Tisharam, this is owing | | |to the twists the khor makes, and | | |one is not able to leave Khor Araf | | |often on account of the hills | | |coming down close to the banks of | | |the khor and rendering the ground | | |impassable. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 12.—EL GETITE (IN KHOR ARAF) TO ADARAMA, _viâ_ BIR DELAI AND TENDERA. BY CAPTAIN KENRICK, SEPTEMBER, 1901. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- El Getite | — | — |March from El Getite to junction | | |of Khor Araf with Khor Barshoi Khor Barshoi | 17 | 17 |(_vide_ previous route report), | | |then march for 2 miles N.W. up | | |Khor Araf almost to its source; | | |the khor narrows here and the path | | |is a little stony in places, then | | |turn W. over a stony plain for 2 | | |miles, very fairly good going Khor El Ashob | 4 | 21 |until the source of Khor El Ashob | | |is reached. From this place may be | | |sighted sources of Khor Araf and | | |Khor Amboreb, which runs away | | |apparently S.E. There was plenty | | |of grass and shade here. Leaving | | |Khor El Ashob, which runs away to | | |the N.W., afterwards turning S.W. | | |again to join Khor Derudeb, march Khor Delai | 7½ | 28½ |S.W. to Khor Delai, 7½ miles | | |distant; road stony, but good | | |going on sheep tracks, the stones | | |are not very thick, nor is it | | |rocky. Cross several khors _en Khor Beida | — | — |route_, Khor Beida is one of them; | | |there is a little grass in all of | | |these. On reaching Khor Delai, | | |after going a few yards down the _Bir Delai_ | — | 28½ |khor the well is reached in the | | |centre of the khor, recently | | |cleaned out by the Arabs, but | | |there are none here now. The well | | |is lined with wood. | | | | | |Depth to water 3½ feet. | | | | | |Depth of water 10 „ | | |(very clean) | | | | | |Circumference (approx.) 7 „ | | | | | |Good cattle watering places round | | |the well. Good shade. Some green | | |grass in the khor. | | | | | |After leaving Bir Delai, first | | |march 5 miles along right bank of | | |Khor Delai (looking towards mouth | 5 | 33½ |of khor), direction W., cross the | | |khor at the point where it runs | | |slightly N.W. to join Khor El | | |Ashob, then 8 miles over stony, | | |but very level plain, excellent | | |going in cattle tracks and sheep _Pool El | 8 | 41½ |tracks S.W. to pool El Ashob in Ashob_ | | |Khor El Ashob, 40 yards long, 12 | | |feet deep and 8 yards broad. Well | | |filled up, 3 miles to N.W.; could | | |be opened if necessary in khor | | |under dom palm. | | | Khor Derudeb | 5 | 46½ |Leave Khor El Ashob, crossing to | | |right bank (looking towards | | |mouth), going in a westerly | | |direction 5 miles to Khor Derudeb, | | |cross this khor. A little cotton | | |soil on E. bank of Khor Derudeb, | | |going otherwise good, over light, | | |stony, sandy soil, but no shade | | |except at the khors. Then N.W. 10 Khor Abu | 10 | 56½ |miles further on to Khor Abu Sillem | | |Sillem, coming from N. of J. | | |Torbraa range; going good, grass | | |in Khor Abu Sillem, also shade. | | |N.W. still 6 miles further to Khor _Khor Breitak_| 6 | 62½ |Breitak, there I found two pools | | |of rain-water, muddy, but sweet. | | |They were in the khor and were | | |about 40 yards long, 6 yards broad | | |and 1 foot deep. About 5 miles of | | |some of the best grazing I have | | |seen in the country. The Sheikh | | |said the water had been there 2 | | |months and would only last 9 days | | |more, another Arab I asked said a | | |month more. The Sheikh also | | |pointed out the road to the N. to _Bir Tendera_ | 13 | 75½ |Bir Tendera; both he and my guides | | |said half a day’s journey, _i.e._, | | |13 miles, easy road, and it looked | | |good what I saw of it. Very good | | |shade here. | | | | | |From Tendera, Adarama is 40 miles | | |(Arabs 2 days, loaded camels), | | |road easy (there may be a little | | |cotton soil), some shade and grass | | |at Bir Tendera, also some shade at Sekotieb | 20 | 95½ |Sekotieb (?), 20 miles (about) | | |from Adarama. The well (Tendera) | | |itself is large, always has water | | |in it. | | | Adarama | 20 | 115½ |This information, though I have | | |seen the road as far as Khor | | |Shedieb and corroborate it so far, | | |is hearsay, as I had not time to | | |go there myself. My informants are | | |my two guides, Sheikh Mohammed Isa | | |and the Mulazim Awal, of Slavery | | |Department at Adarama, all of whom | | |have been there, and many Arabs | | |_re_ water. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- NOTE.—In the long grass (September) a large number of snakes exactly similar to the Indian cobra were met. I killed 4 on the march. The Hadendoa name for them is “kokwa” whilst the Ababda called them “Dugga.” 13.—UMBREGA (R. SETIT) TO SOFI (R. ATBARA). BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT.—MARCH, 1900. N.B.—For description of route further east and notes on this road, _vide_ Route 125, Appendix. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Umbrega[9] | — | — |From here there is a tolerably | | |distinct track following the _Abedo_ | 3¾ | 3¾ |crest-line of the plateau, and the | | |river is seen and approachable _Godema_ | ¾ | 4½ |only occasionally, being always 1 | | |to 4 miles on left. The descents K. Turab Karuf| 1¼ | 5¾ |to Meshras Abedo and Godema are | | |passed, and then the burial ground Sheikh Ageil | 4 | 9¾ |and khor of Torab Karuf, further | | |on the district of Sheikh Ageil _El Zuhani_ | 1½ | 11¼ |and Meshra El Zuhani. From Sheikh | | |Ageil J. Esir and Lukdi are both | | |visible N.N.W. and S.S.W. | | |respectively, latter being on | | |boundary of Hamrans towards | | |Abyssinia. | | | Gat Wad El Hag| 6½ | 17¾ |Leaving this, the path passes | | |clearings of former cultivation, | | |and after 3 miles of thick bush, _El Hagar El | 1¾ | 19½ |Gat Wad El Hag. Meshra El Hagar El Zuruk_ | | |Zuruk is reached, and after | | |following bed of river for ½ a _Gira_ | 10½ | 30 |mile, plateau is regained, and | | |Gira is next Meshra. On left bank K. Lobetir | 6 | 36 |are cliffs, on which are situated | | |the ruins of the old Egyptian _K. Wad | 2 | 38 |Fort. K. Lobetir and K. Wad Heleiwa_ | | |Heleiwa being crossed, village of | | |latter name, which is the sole _Setit_ | 1¼ | 39¼ |existing one of Hamrans at present | | |time, is reached. From here Setit _Atbara_ | 7½ | 46¾ |is crossed, and later R. Atbara | | |and village of Sofi is reached. | | | _Sofi_ | ¾ | 47½ |Little game was seen between | | |Umbrega and Sofi. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- [Footnote 1: Camel transport.] [Footnote 2: For further details regarding the water supply along this route _vide_ “Report on the Nile and country between Dongola, &c.,” 1898.] [Footnote 3: Meaning “red stone” in Hadendoa.] [Footnote 4: “Black stone” in Hadendoa.] [Footnote 5: Fuel should be carried between Ariab and Maho Bey.] [Footnote 6: From Suakin.] [Footnote 7: Now many.] [Footnote 8: If it is not desired to march through Italian territory from this point, the route mentioned in the previous report may be taken by marching up Khor Langeb to junction Khor Windi, and thence up the latter khor for about 20 miles until the eastern road is met.] [Footnote 9: The Sudan-Eritrea frontier here runs from a point on the Hafeira-Umbrega road, marked by a blazed heglig tree, straight to the bend of the Setit immediately opposite the mouth of the Khor Royan, which enters the Setit on the left bank about 11 miles above Umbrega.] CHAPTER IV. (EASTERN SUDAN.) * * * * * 14.—KHARTOUM NORTH TO KASSALA, _viâ_ GEILI, RERA EL SADDA, AND EL SOFEIYA, DIMIAT, ASUBRI. BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT (JANUARY, 1900) WITH ADDITIONS BY CAPTAINS BOULNOIS (MARCH, 1900) AND MORANT (JANUARY, 1901). _General Description._ [Sidenote: Road.] At this season (January) the going is good throughout, except for the few miles between Um Ukheita and Um Rueishid and the first 5 miles out of Rera eastwards, which portions of the track are very stony. From El Sadda to Asubri there is at present (1900) no track, so the going is not so good as in other parts, but there is no obstacle to camels. The gradients throughout are insignificant. A great portion of the route is over dark arable soil, which must be impassable when wet, so that in autumn this route must be difficult for camels for at any rate a day after heavy rain. There is plenty of shade up to El Ereigib; after that it is rarely found and is non-existent for considerable stretches. [Sidenote: Rivers.] The Atbara bed lies from 100-200 feet below the level of the surrounding plains. On either side it is bordered by 2 to 4 miles of broken ground covered with scattered bush, through which the track proceeds by easy gradients. As a rule it is unfordable at Asubri from end of June to middle of October. During these months travellers cross by the boat ferry at Suweihil some 5 miles further south. The Gash is liable to be unfordable for several days together during the flood season which lasts during July, August and September. [Sidenote: Supplies.] A good deal of dura is grown near the track and some might be obtainable at the right time of year. Sheep and milk can be got at many places. Firewood is to be found everywhere up to El Giseima (66 miles), after that it is very scarce till the Atbara is reached. [Sidenote: Water.] As tanks are very numerous, water must be very plentiful in autumn and early winter. The wells about El Ereigib are very deep; that at Wad Abu Saleh was found to be roughly 250 feet. There are still many wells that require digging out and tanks that want repair. Water was of good quality throughout, and all the wells visited had an ample supply. [Sidenote: Inhabitants.] The village of Um Dibban and all the country as far as Wad Abu Saleh used to be under El Taib Abd El Salem, the Sheikh of El Soba. Owing to their having joined the Mahdi, the Sheikh of El Obeid family have risen in importance and acquired a certain jurisdiction over the country east of Um Dibban. A few Batahin were met with as far as El Giseima, after that practically all were Shukria or those living with that tribe, as far as the left bank of the Atbara. [Sidenote: Grazing.] There is excellent tree grazing as far as El Giseima, and after that the supply of grass is so great that one can understand how the enormous flocks and herds subsisted, that the Shukria claim to have possessed in their palmy days. The grass seen was never more than 3 feet high. It is not burnt. [Sidenote: Cultivation.] An immense area is capable of growing good crops of dura if the rains are favourable. [Sidenote: Game.] There is practically nothing to shoot at this season (January) between the Blue Nile and a few miles of the Atbara. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Khartoum North| — | — |Starting E. from the Artillery | | |Lines at Khartoum N., a well | | |marked track is soon struck, which | | |continues up the Blue Nile cutting | | |off corners where it bends. It | | |passes the village of Kuku (whence | | |a track leads to Sheikh El Amin | | |and afterwards rejoins this | | |route), the two villages of | | |Gereif, where there is some | | |cultivation, and at about 12 miles | | |the village of Um Dom. At about 19 | | |miles, after passing some low | | |mounds covered with frequent | | |fragments of stone and brick, said _Old Soba_ | 19 | 19 |to be the remains of Old Soba, the | | |road bifurcates and the branch to | | |the left is taken, a clearly | | |marked track. For the first few | | |miles the path passes through | | |thinly scattered trees, which | | |gradually get thicker, till at 23 | | |miles they restrict the view in | | |any direction to 200 or 300 yards. | | |At 25½ miles a well is passed on | | |the right of the road, and at 27 _Um Dibban_ | 8 | 27 |miles Um Dibban is reached. This | | |is a scattered but well-built mud | | |village on perfectly flat ground, | | |from which all vegetation has been | | |removed for a radius of 1,000 to | | |1,500 yards. | | | | | |It was formed by a holy man named | | |Sheikh El Obeid, who established a | | |school and caused a tank to be | | |dug. His descendants still live | | |there and keep up the school, but | | |they now have hankerings after | | |temporal power. | | | | | |The Sheikh El Obeid family and | | |followers were early and fanatical | | |adherents of the Mahdi, and it was | | |in attempting to surprise them | | |that Mohammed Ali Pasha and his | | |forces were cut to pieces in 1884. | | | | | |There are two wells about 112 feet | | |deep, one inside, and the other | | |200 yards W. of the S.W. corner of | | |village. | | | | | |The inhabitants belong to various | | |tribes; many have land on the Blue | | |Nile, and some cultivate land to | | |the E. | | | | | |The road starts slightly N. of E., | | |and generally traverses a thin | | |forest of thorny trees, not thick | | |enough really to impede troops, | | |but necessitating a little dodging | | |here and there. At 4¼ miles it _Wad Badrub_ | 4¼ | 31¼ |passes Wad Badrub, a well, said to (Wad Agid) | | |be 140 feet deep, belonging to Um | | |Dibban. About 200 yards further | | |on, and again after 4 more miles, | | |dry tanks were passed. | | | | | |The track maintains a general | | |direction of a little N. of E., | | |but constantly makes considerable | | |changes for short distances. | | | _Wad Hedeibab_| 7¾ | 39 |Well. | | | _Um Sideira_ | 7 | 46 |Well. | | | | 4 | 50 |A dry tank in the Elwan district | | |is passed. There is said to be a | | |well of the same name 2 miles to | | |the S.E. This district originally | | |belonged to the Shukria, but is | | |now occupied by the Batahin. | | | | | |The country soon becomes more open | | |and a considerable extent, perhaps | | |600 or more feddans of dura, | | |cultivated by the Batahin was | | |passed. | | | _El Ereigib_ | 5 | 55 |There are some wells (which were | | |out of repair; January 1901) and | | |several dry tanks, and one with | | |water about 1 mile N.E. Plenty of | | |fair sized trees. | | | | | |A small number of Mesellemia | | |Arabs, Sheikh Mahi, were there. | | |They were originally under the | | |Shukria, but during the Mahdia | | |came under Sheikh El Obeid. | | | | | |Another rather shorter route is | | |from Khartoum N. to El Ereigib, | | |viâ Babekr (11½ miles), good well, | | |thence passing two lots of salt | | |works to the village of _El | | |Melaha_ (13 miles), large tank, | | |plenty of water (January, 1901), | | |thence to a second village of _El | | |Melaha_ (2½ miles), salt well, | | |thence to a deep but good _well at | | |Elwan_ (22½ miles), and total | | |distance to El Ereigib (4 miles) | | |is 53½ miles. | | | | | |The country soon becomes more | | |open, several tanks are passed. At | | |3 miles Wad Abu Saleh, good well | | |250 feet deep, marked by some | | |small but well built mud houses in | | |good preservation, said to belong | | |to the Sheikh of El Soba. About ¾ | | |mile to the left is a tank, said | | |to hold the largest supply of | | |water in the neighbourhood. The | | |country now becomes more and more | | |bare of trees, and more ground fit | | |for cultivation is seen. At 6½ | | |miles some Batahin crops are Wadi Sereria | 6½ | 6½ |passed, and the Wadi Sereria | | |flowing S. is crossed. A well | | |belonging to the Mesellemia is | | |said to be close at hand on left. | | |At 8 miles a track from Shendi viâ | | |Wad Hassuna to Rufaa is crossed. | | |No water along it except tanks. | | | _El | 4½ | 66 |A tank about 100 feet in diameter Giseima_[10] | | |on rather high ground surrounded | | |by a few trees, 2 feet of water in | | |it, Hamla 4½ hours. From this on, | | |no trees are seen till Rera is | | |reached, except where belts of | | |“kittr” bushes mark the lines of | | |Wadis or a small clump of thorn | | |trees shows the position of a | | |tank; firewood should be provided | | |for. | | | | | |The absence of trees enables one | | |to see far over the wide plains, | | |mostly of arable soil and covered | | |at this season with dry “Mahareib” | | |and “Hamra” grass. At 4 miles, an | | |unusually pronounced drainage line | | |said to come from Abu Deleig is | | |crossed. The upper part is called Wadi Abu Sueid| 4 | 70 |Wadi Abu Sueid and the lower Wadi | | |Hasit, said to be much cultivation | | |along it, but none was seen. | | |Thence across a gravelly plateau | | |from which 4 miles further on | | |Geili hill can be seen. At 76th | | |mile road descends short slope to Astaneit | 6 | 76 |Astaneit tank, dry, no wood, | | |water, nor good grazing. | | | | | |From here on to Geili, the road | | |generally makes for the hill. The | | |main track probably avoids | | |Astaneit tank, leaving it to the | | |right. At 80th mile the Khor Khor Dengalia | 4 | 80 |Dengalia; at 84th mile the Wadi | | |Nail, and half mile further on the Wadi Nail | 4 | 84 |Wadi Ankia are crossed, all | | |flowing south. 5½ miles further on Wadi Ankia | ½ | 84½ |the N. end of the Geili hill was | | |reached. The best place to halt is _Geili_ | 6 | 90½ |½ mile further on at the S.E. end, | | |where a huge fallen boulder | | |affords good shade for two or | | |three persons. It has an ancient | | |carving in Egyptian style on the | | |side nearest the hill. | | | | | |J. Geili is a granite outcrop | | |about 250 feet high, rising out of | | |a gentle elevation in the plain. | | |On E. and S. are some low knolls | | |enclosing a small open space, in | | |which the wells now most used are | | |situated. There are said to be | | |about thirty wells round the hill, | | |varying in depth from 50 to 100 | | |feet, yielding an unfailing supply | | |of water; some grass near but no | | |firewood. The only path up the | | |hill is from the N., and even | | |there nailed boots must be taken | | |off. | | | | | |From the summit a good view is | | |obtained. Near the top on some | | |level ground is a place shown as | | |the tomb of the “Bint El Mek,” the | | |daughter of one of the Fung Kings, | | |who married Sheikh El Din one of | | |the early Shukria Sheikhs. | | | | | |From Geili there are two roads to | | |Um Rueishid, one of which viâ J. | | |El Daein makes a considerable | | |detour. It starts on a bearing of | | |about 66° from true N. straight | | |for J. El Daein, passing over good | | |soil nearly all the way, several | | |hundred feddans of which appear to | | |have been cultivated (1901). The | | |ground is much cracked and off the | | |path, the going is bad. | | | J. El Daein | 22 | 112½ |Two small hills of which the | | |southern is the higher. There is a | | |tank, now dry, at its foot on W. | | |side, Hamla took 8 hours, going | | |well. | | | Um Ukheita | 14½ | 127 |The track now turns slightly S. of | | |E. and continues over good soil | | |rather bare of grass to Um | | |Ukheita, a tank now dry, on a | | |slight stony rise. Hamla about 5 | | |hours. From here on to Um Rueishid | | |the ground is covered with angular | | |stones, and the going very bad. | | |Camels have to walk. At 2½ miles | | |J. Rera is seen to the S.E., and | | |the track makes fairly straight | | |for it, leaving on the right the | | |group of small hills known as El | | |Nawasla. At 6¼ miles the track | | |descends a gentle slope, and bends | | |up to the N. to the well of Um | | |Rueishid. | | | | | |The more direct road, which would | | |appear to be the best in every | | |way, runs nearly due E. over a | | |“Nal” grass covered plain devoid | | |of bush, therefore also of shade | | |and firewood, to Sofeiya El Wata | | |(23 miles) a large tank (dry | | |January, 1901), where there is | | |excellent shade for a small party. | | |From here to Um Rueishid (20 | | |miles), track traverses similar | | |country, though it is occasionally | | |stony. J. Um Betikh is passed to | | |the S. of the track. | | | _Um Rueishid_ | 8¼ | 135¼ |This well is said to be 30 or 35 | | |feet deep. It is situated on bare | | |stony ground. A dry tank lies ½ | | |mile to the S. There are a few | | |small thorn bushes S. of well, but | | |there is very little shade and | | |little grazing, and it is | | |altogether rather an unpleasant | | |halting place. | | | | | |From Um Rueishid there is a track | | |viâ El Sofeiya and Dimiat to | | |Asubri. It seems the most direct | | |line possible, _vide_ description | | |below. | | | | | |The route followed after about 1 | | |mile of stony plain strikes a well | | |marked track on good cultivable | | |soil, and makes straight for J. | | |Rera. | | | | | |At 1½ miles it crosses the Wadi | | |Jerraba flowing S., and 6 miles W. | | |Rahad, and at 11 miles the W. | | |Kanan flowing N. All are flat | | |depressions with cracked soil and | | |marked by lines of “kittr” bushes. | | |Parts of their courses are | | |cultivated. At 18 miles, track | | |enters ground strewn with quartz | | |pebbles, and covered with grass | | |which continues as far as Rera. | | | _Rera_ | 22¼ | 157½ |Hamla 9½ hours. The Rera hills | | |consist of three rocky ridges | | |almost in line, running E. and W. | | |and some low subsidiary elevation; | | |S. of the centre ridge is a well | | |and a dry water hole. Immediately | | |to the S. of the W. end of the | | |eastern and highest ridge are more | | |wells now in use. On the N. side | | |of the short and low pass that | | |leads to these wells from the N. | | |is a deep dry tank. Before the | | |Mahdia immense flocks and herds | | |used to water here. In the eastern | | |and highest ridge are several rock | | |tanks containing water. | | | | | |From Rera a road goes viâ Dimiat | | |to Asubri. It is more direct and | | |better marked than the one | | |followed, but was not taken as the | | |rock tanks at Dimiat were said to | | |be dry (January, 1900). The | | |eastern ridge is not difficult to | | |ascend and commands a good view. | | |The natives say J. Kassala can be | | |seen from it on a fine day during | | |the rains. Variation of prismatic | | |compass about 3½° W. | | | | | |There is no marked track for the | | |first 5 miles towards El Sadda, | | |and the going is bad over pebbles | | |and through long grass. | | | | | |After that a well marked track is | | |reached, which continues the rest | | |of the way. | | | Wadi Atiam | 7 | 154½ |At 7 miles, the Wadi Atiam is | | |passed flowing N. It goes to El | | |Sofeiya, and as far again beyond | | |it dies away. Much cultivation | | |along it. From 7 to 9½ miles the | | |road is rather bad and stony till | | |it has passed the Atash hills by a | | |short and easy gap, and enters an | | |open plain which extends to El | | |Sadda. | | | | | |Several tanks are passed on the | | |right, known as El Farsh. Hamla 9½ | | |hours. | | | _El Sadda_ | 25½ | 180 |There are several wells here about | | |½ mile W. of S. end of J. El | | |Sadda, a low ridge running N. and | | |S. The one well visited was said | | |to be 70 to 80 feet deep. Plenty | | |of grass, but no trees nor | | |firewood. On the N. and W. of the | | |hill and close to its foot are a | | |number of circular stone mounds | | |neatly built, which appear to be | | |tumuli, and probably date from a | | |time anterior to the present | | |inhabitants. The two biggest are | | |immediately under the highest | | |point. From here to the Atbara | | |there is no track and no water. | | |Bushes mark the drainage lines, | | |otherwise the plains are bare of | | |all but grass. Much of the ground | | |is cracked and consequently bad | | |going. The route followed | | |eventually struck the well marked | | |track made by the Dervishes from | | |Dimiat, and kept along it to | | |Asubri. At 2½ miles from Asubri | | |the main road along the left bank | | |of the Atbara is crossed. Soon | | |after, the track descends into the | | |broken ground which fringes both | | |banks of the Atbara to a width of | | |2 or more miles. The actual banks | | |at Asubri are 15 to 20 feet high | | |and 300 yards apart. Crocodiles | | |are plentiful. The ford in | | |January, 1901 was 120 yards long | | |and 2½ feet deep. | | | _Asubri_ (R. | 57 | 237 |Hamla took 19 hours from El Sadda. Atbara) | | |A nice shady camp on right bank | | |for a very small party. Mosquitos | | |few, but particularly poisonous. | | | | | |Asubri is the name of a strip of | | |land extending for some miles | | |along both banks of the Atbara. On | | |the left bank, near the ford, is | | |an old cemetery, and ½ mile S. is | | |a building formerly occupied by | | |Abdel Rahim Wad Abu Dugal, the | | |Dervish Emir in command of their | | |post here in 1897 and early in | | |1898. | | | | | |On leaving camp, the track winds | | |in and out of khors and up gentle | | |slopes through bushes, till at 2 | | |or 3 miles it emerges on to the | | |plain, which is of good soil | | |covered with scattered bush. The | | |general direction is straight for | | |J. Kassala. | | | | | |At about 6 miles the track from | | |Suweihil joins in on the right, | | |and from this on, the road is well | | |marked. Many ariel and gazelle, | | |and a few ostriches seen. | | | Um Siteiba | 21 | 258 |At 21 miles, Um Siteiba, commonly | | |called half way is passed. Here is | | |a large natural pond for about 4 | | |months in the rains, but now dry. | | |Serut fly bad when there is water | | |here. | | | | | |About 6 miles from Kassala, the | | |track turns N.E. and traverses | | |more thickly wooded country, till | | |it reaches the bed of the Gash, | | |now dry, some 700 yards wide, | | |immediately beyond which lies the | | |old town of Kassala. | | | Kassala | 17 | 275 |The old name, Taka, may now be | | |regarded as obsolete. The former | | |town is a complete ruin, of which | | |nothing remains except the | | |circular bastions. The new town | | |has been built close by the S.E. | | |and consists largely of Tukls. The | | |Fort, built by the Italians, is | | |just E. of the N. end of the old | | |town. | | | | | |Telegraph lines from Suakin, | | |Massawa, and Khartoum viâ Gedaref | | |meet here. UM RUEISHID _viâ_ SOFEIYA TO ASUBRI. Khartoum, N. | — | — | | | | Um Rueishid | — | 135¼ |From Um Rueishid where the ground | | |is very stony, the track which is | | |well defined, starts at a bearing | | |of 112° from true N., and very | | |soon K. Abu Jerraba is crossed | | |flowing N., it is said to | | |eventually unite with the Wadi | | |Khasa. | | | Wadi Khasa | 7½ | 142¾ |There are signs of a good deal of | | |cultivation along this wadi. | | | J. Um El Gurud| 1½ | 144¼ |J. Um El Gurud, a low rocky hill | | |about ¼ mile long is passed about | | |1¾ miles to S. and 3 miles further | | |on Sheikh | | | Sh. Naim’s | 1½ | 145¾ |Naim’s tomb, conspicuous on top of Tomb | | |a gentle slope, is passed on N. | | |side of the road. Open bushless | | |grass country continued until El Sofeiya | 9½ | 155¼ |nearing El Sofeiya, where | | |scattered bush and granite rocks | | |appear. There are some forty wells | | |here, though water supply | | |decreases considerably in the dry | | |season, they vary from 50 to 100 | | |feet in depth. | | | | | |The people here, who are Shukria | | |under Sh. Ahmed Mohamed Abu Sin, | | |live in tents made of matting; | | |there are no permanent buildings | | |of any sort, and the encampments | | |are small and scattered. The | | |direct road to Kassala, which is | | |difficult to trace for the first | | |mile or so after leaving the | | |wells, soon becomes well defined, | | |having been much used during the | | |Mahdia, and leads over open flat | | |grassy land from J. Gurun, which | | |it leaves about 2½ miles to the S. | | |Khors Royan (7 miles) and Atshan | | |(11½ miles) being crossed en | 15½ | 170¾ |route, flowing N. | | | Wadi Giref | 6½ | 177¼ |J. Giref is passed about 3 miles | | |N. of track and Wadi Giref is | | |crossed about a mile further on. | | | | | |From here to J. Dimiat is about 15 | | |miles, Wadi Girgoja being crossed | | |at about half way. | | | _J. Dimiat_ | 15 | 192¼ |A granite hill about 100 feet | | |high. There is a natural tank | | |about half way up, inaccessible | | |for camels, which after a good | | |rainy season contains water till | | |the end of January, but is not to | | |be relied on. There is a certain | | |amount of laot bush around the | | |base of the Jebel, which serves as | | |firewood, and some detached | | |boulders give shade for a small | | |party. | | | | | |From here to the Atbara valley | | |about 33 miles there is no bush, | | |with the exception of two thin | | |belts called Ogba El Bagar about 5 Ogba El Bagar | 18 | 210¼ |miles apart. | | | | 7½ | 217¾ |The road bifurcates, one to | | |Gandaua, Sh. Omara Abu Sin’s | | |village on the Atbara, the other | | |is the Dervish track to Asubri. | | |The route taken (January, 1901) | | |was neither, but direction lay for | | |3 miles S.E., and then due E. | | |through scattered bush to edge of | | |plateau. | | | Edge of | 8½ | 226¼ |From this point Jebels Kassala, Plateau | | |Abu Gamel, &c., are plainly | | |visible. Also are several small | | |hills some 10 miles to the S. and | | |S.W. named Bereirob and El Gatar, | | |whilst J. Leinun is visible a | | |similar distance to the N. | | | | | |The road now descends a khor by | | |easy gradients to the bed of the | | |Atbara at the well known Meshra of _Asubri_ | 2¼ | 228½ |Asubri. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 15.—GOZ REGEB TO SHENDI _viâ_ ABU DELEIG. BY CAPTAIN W. A. BOULNOIS, APRIL, 1900. [Sidenote: General Remarks. Road.] From Goz Regeb, a ruined town of mud houses almost entirely deserted to Sheg el Walia, there is no track, and the country is bare till within 30 miles of Sheg. Hence to Geleita there is a badly defined track and none from Geleita to Abu Deleig. From the latter to Shendi the track is well defined most of the way, and there seems to be a considerable amount of traffic; parties bringing dura from Rufaa to Shendi, and one party from Metemma with goods to sell in Abu Deleig market were met. The track disappears 10 miles short of Shendi. The going is good at this time of year all the way; wherever tracts of strong rich soil and wadis are crossed, and there are many, it would be impracticable in the wet season at times. From Abu Deleig to Shendi the going is good enough, probably all the year round, but many deepish khors would form serious obstacles in the rains. The Atbara was 2½ feet deep, and 60 yards wide. [Sidenote: Supplies.] A fair amount of dura is grown near Sheg and Geleita. It was easily obtainable there in small quantities. A great deal is grown in Hawad, a very fertile district, and also a certain amount in Abu Deleig in good years, but it all depends on the rainfall. Very little from Abu Deleig to Shendi. [Sidenote: Wood.] Firewood is not to be obtained between Goz Regeb and within 10 miles of Abu Deleig; plenty elsewhere. [Sidenote: Water.] None from Goz Regeb to Sheg, about 65 miles. Tanks very numerous near and in Hawad. Water only obtainable at Ladda, between Abu Deleig and Shendi; but there are numerous tanks, though all dry at this time. Water is of good quality, especially at Abu Deleig. [Sidenote: Inhabitants.] From Goz Regeb to Hawad, Shukria; round Abu Deleig, Batahin; at Ladda, Ababda and Hassania. [Sidenote: Grazing.] Very good grazing from Sheg to Shendi. [Sidenote: Cultivation.] Large tracts and areas capable of growing good crops of dura if rains favourable. [Sidenote: Game.] Nothing to shoot between Atbara and the Nile at this time of the year. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Atbara | — | — |Descending the bank by the hut on | | |the E. bank the Atbara is crossed | | |and the W. bank ascended ¼ mile S. | | | | | |Elsewhere the banks are steep, but | | |the bush is not very dense. Track | | |leads to Goz Regeb. The ruined | | |brick buildings of the old | | |Egyptian town are still standing, | | |and amongst them the decayed tukls | | |of Osman Digna. A very few | | |inhabitants, descendants of the | | |ancient town of Goz are living | | |there still. The site is on high | | |ground, and light sandy soil, a | | |few dom palms, and the remains of | | |an old garden and cemetery are | | |still visible. | | | Goz Regeb | 1 | 1 |Counting from huts on the E. bank, | | |the distance to the town is 1 | | |mile. The direction taken, about | | |260° from the true north, leaves | | |the town of Goz Regeb on the N., | | |and passes from sandy undulating | | |ground to level rich soil with | | |very little grass and trees, | | |getting scarcer through El Uera | | |district, leaving the two hills of | | |El Darei on the north side; at | | |about 9 miles the direction taken | | |leads straight to Bewadda. Under | | |the hills of El Darei are bushes Bewadda | 15½ | 16½ |and grass. | | | | | |Bearing from Bewadda to Sabaat | | |162°, Erembat 81°, Takallaareid | | |343°. Bewadda is a granite rock in | | |the middle of a bare tract. | | | | | |At 20 miles a ridge about ¼ mile | | |long, quite low, stands 1 mile to | | |the N.; hence the ground is | | |perfectly bare till about 50 | | |miles. Wadis coming from south | | |begin to empty on the plain, then | | |the going becomes bad in places, | | |especially in the cracked soil | | |near the Wadis. Grass gets more | | |plentiful. | | | | | |At 51 miles Wadi Royan is crossed, | | |and shortly after Wadi El Doleb | | |and Wadi Sangareh; dura is grown | | |about these wadis. | | | J. Ikhbeit | 36 | 52½ |Bearing to J. Ikhbeit 209°. | | | | | |The broad Wadi El Abil is crossed | | |at 59 miles; there are bushes and | | |firewood in it. Four miles further | | |on the ground becomes stony after | | |crossing Wadi Wad Masuga, and | | |rises gentle slope of stony ridge. | | | _Shag El | 13½ | 66 |Shag El Walia is reached after Walia_ | | |crossing a second ridge. It is | | |generally called simply Shag, no | | |connection with Sheikh. Four wells | | |in use out of 14; 120 feet deep, | | |water constant; 200 camels could | | |be watered daily. A badly defined | | |track leads over a valley with | | |rich soil across Wadi Baseyayi, | | |then gently up another stony ridge _Geleita_ | 14½ | 80½ |and plateau down to Geleita where | | |are 7 wells in use altogether, | | |about 120 feet deep, water | | |constant. There are several wells | | |unopened. A good many flocks and | | |inhabitants. | | | | | |Leaving the main group of wells, a | | |track is followed down bed of khor | | |to the foot of the ridge in N.W. | | |direction, fairly free from | | |stones, past two wells at ¾ mile, | | |and one well at 1¼ miles. The | | |track disappears and rich soil and _Isna Bir_ | 17½ | 98 |pasture land is crossed to Isna | | |Bir, where there are 2 wells | | |giving a scanty supply of water, | | |and a few people (Batahin); a few | | |patches of corn were noticed on | | |the way. | | | | | |Hence the direction taken is | | |nearly W., crossing a very fertile | | |tract of country; many water | | |tanks, now dry, then over the rich | | |land of Hawad, and rising a gentle | | |slope touches the Khor Girgegi, | | |which waters the Hawad, about 1 _Abu Deleig_ | 25 | 123 |mile short of Abu Deleig. | | | | | |Good shade all round. Large number | | |of wells. | | | | 2 | 125 |The best place for a small party | | |is 2 miles higher up the Girgegi. | | |A well defined track, starting | | |N.W. across Wadi Shilha and leads | | |over good pasture land with many | | |mimosa trees and sandy soil to _Ladda_ | 20 | 145 |Ladda. A large tank hewn out of | | |the rock in the middle of a grass | | |plain. Plenty of water, 1/4/00, | | |diameter about 100 feet, depth in | | |middle 5 feet, said to last all | | |the year. Many flocks; Ababda and | | |Hassania tribes. Tomb of Atali | | |close to the tank. The track leads | | |past several stony ridges and | | |sandy soil, across 3 or 4 khors, | | |notably Fehed, and is lost about 7 Shendi | 41 | 186 |miles from Shendi, which is | | |reached descending a long very | | |gradual slope from the high | | |plateau at the foot of J. Girenat | | |and Neheidat. Distance taken to | | |Gubba Shendi. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 16.—EL DAMER TO FASHER (ATBARA). BY MAJOR BULKELEY JOHNSON, SCOTS GREYS, OCTOBER, 1901. [Sidenote: General Remarks. Road.] From El Damer to Goz Regeb the road is stony and sandy, with open desert or open bush. Going: good for horses in open formation but slightly heavy; for artillery, heavy, with a strain on the horses the whole journey. I should suggest some form of detachable broad sand tyre to prevent sinking of the wheels, as suggested in Journal of Artillery Institute, of, I think, September, 1901. From Goz Regeb to Sofi the road is a single track through long grass on a high plateau, 2 or 3 miles from river, which is difficult of access owing to broken ground gradually sloping to river, which is cut up by innumerable khors, water courses, and bush. The going over the single track is good for horses, but bad for guns, as both horses and wheels must go through the long grass, and horses’ feet are continually slipping inwards as the track is narrow and generally deep. At times, as between Sofi and Mogatta, the path is completely lost and overgrown with kittr—bad enough for single horses, but still worse for pairs or led horses; the gun horses on two occasions coming in red with blood from shoulders down. I would suggest outside blinkers for gun horses in bush to protect the eyes from thorns. [Sidenote: Water.] During first portion of road, El Damer to Goz Regeb, the river is difficult of access owing to thick bush and high banks, except in recognized meshras, often far apart. Water very good; camps good and shady. On second portion, Goz Regeb to Fasher, river often 3 miles away, and very difficult of access. Meshras very few owing to broken ground, thick bush, and deep khors running in every direction; camps fair and shady. [Sidenote: Grasses.] On Atbara up to Goz Regeb, halfa grass is plentiful along the banks. After El Fasher plenty of green abu rokba, abu arid, and neghil, by far the best being abu arid, which, green or dry, is always taken by the natives in preference to any other for horses and cattle. Naal is apparently no use as food, but adaa or false dura is better than nothing. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- El Damer | — | — | | | | El Basli | 14 | 14 |Road across stony desert. Small | | |village, 150-200 inhabitants, | | |about 4 miles S. of Abadar Meshra. | | |Dom fringe, ½ mile broad; outside | | |this, stony desert. Two roads—one | | |through doms, the other outside— | | |single track over stones. | | | | | |From El Busli. | | | | | |Outside road taken. | | | | ¾ | 14¾ |Meshra Umdebia. | | | Amerab | 3¾ | 18½ |Amerab village, ½ mile from river; | | |50 grass tukls, two mud houses. | 2 | 20½ |Big house standing alone. Sheikh | | |Omar. | | | Minawi | 1¼ | 21¾ |Meshra very good. | | | Goz El Halag | 4 | 25¾ |Opposite to Goz El Halag (meshra) | | |a few tukls. Road still 2 miles | | |from river. Country changes. Soil | | |becomes loamy, with some sand and | | |scattered bush. River bank lined | | |with doms. | | | Girsi | 5¼ | 31 |Village. Cultivation by sagias; | | |big meshra 2 miles north. Road | | |shortly goes through dura (rain | | |crops), therefore patrol skirted | | |outside this. Country as before; | | |open bush, mostly tundub; no road. | | | Debbet Bush | 3 | 34 |Opposite to big village Debbet. | | |Bush W. of outer road; about 2 | | |miles from river. Water from 2 | | |wells. | | | Burush | 4 | 38 |Opposite to; a few tukls, meshra. | | | Abaka | 3 | 41 |Ditto. | | | Helal | 7 | 48 |Ditto, meshra. Cultivation, and a | | |few tukls fairly close; bush mixed | | |with doms, about 1 mile broad from | | |river. | | | Shigil | 2 | 50 |Meshra. Cultivation on and near | | |river. Meshra in a small pool, | | |nearly dry (Oct. 16th). Island, ½ | | |mile long; plenty of neghil grass. | | |Village of Shigil, about 20 tukls; | 1 | 51 |½ mile from river in bush. | | | Garada | 1 | 52 |Meshra. Road enters dura 1½ miles | | |from river; narrow path through | | |thickets. | | | Marzuga | 2 | 54 |Meshra. | | | | 5 | 59 |Bush ends. Road enters open sandy | | |desert which stretches down to | | |river, on banks of which fringe of | | |doms, ½-1 mile wide. | | | El Rimta | 3½ | 62½ |Arab encampment. (No meshra.) Road | | |close to river. Road runs along | | |river bank through doms and | | |cultivation for ½ mile, then open | | |sandy desert with sunt and tundub | | |right down to bank; sand hills. | | | _El Awadi_ | 3½ | 66 |Meshra (very good). Good shade for | | |camp. Heavy going for guns. No | | |road. | | | | 10 | 76 |_Good meshra_. No signs of | | |cultivation. | | | _Adarama_ | 4 | 80 |Meshra opposite Adarama. | | | | 3 | 83 |Ferry for Adarama. A fringe of | | |bush, about 1 mile broad, along | | |river; outside this, open flat | | |desert with a few tundub bushes. | | |Road at times 2 miles from river, | | |across bends, and approaches it at | | |mile 97. | | | | 14 | 97 |_Meshra_, very good (rocky bed); | | |shady camp. Fringe of bush | | |impenetrable (except at meshras) | | |along bank, about 10 yards broad. | | |This continues for a long | | |distance. Road close to river. | | | _Amiam_ | 10 | 107 |Meshra, by small khor; sandy bank, | | |¼ mile broad; no inhabitants; | | |going, sandy and bad. | | | _Taroma_ | 6 | 113 |Meshra. Bisharin tukl village; | | |about 30 people; flocks; | 4 | 117 |cultivation of dukhn on sandy | | |banks. Meshra, good; dukhn on | | |sandy banks. No signs of | | |inhabitants. | | | | 11 | 128 |No meshra, but able to get down to | | |river by group of doms; sandy | | |banks, not much grass (halfa). | | |Road goes away from river to cut | | |off bend. | | | | 5½ | 133½ |Road divides: right hand to Goz | | |Regeb direct, left keeping near | | |river. Followed left; going | | |becomes worse, with small khors | | |when near river. | | | Auli | 2½ | 136 |Arab encampment. Meshra. | | | | 6 | 142 |Very _good meshra_; open space on | | |bank. Fine view of river part of | | |Auli. No grass. | | | | 2 | 144 |_Meshra_. Arab encampment; dukhn, | | |plenty of halfa grass. End of | | |Bisharin tribe. | | | | 3 | 147 |Arab encampment. Arteiga branch of | | |Hadendioa. Great quantities of | | |sheep, cattle and camels. | | | | | |G. Tukwe on west, J. Ofreik on | | |east, just visible from here. | | | | | |Succession of small meshras and | | |encampments. | | | | 4 | 151 |_Meshra_. | | | | 2 | 153 |_Meshra_. | | | | 1 | 154 |Cemetery; stony ground. | | | | 3 | 157 |Path debouches into open alluvial | | |plain (short grass and tundub | | |bushes) cutting off bend. | | | | 5 | 162 |Approach river, near which country | | |is broken and stony. _Meshra bad_; | | |no grass except a little abu rokba | | |(slightly bitter taste when green, | | |and of which some horses will not | | |eat at first until accustomed). | | |Flocks and cattle. Road from 148th | | |mile close to river, over very | | |rough, broken, stony ground, and | | |at times thick bush. Several small | | |meshras. Goz Regeb’s two hills | | |visible for first time. | | | Saraf | 6 | 168 |Arab encampment; _meshra_. | | | _Goz Regeb_ | 12 | 180 |Meshra—1 mile short of it—under | | |palms. Camp (bad), 2 miles further | | |on, at ferry. Camel post opposite; | | |grass, halfa. | | | | | |This road makes Goz Regeb 100 | | |miles from Adarama. | | | | | |From Goz Regeb the road proceeds | | |at about 3 miles from river on a | | |flat table land, as the ground | | |between it and the river is rocky | | |and broken by innumerable small | | |water courses and khors called by | | |natives “karrab.” The going is | | |over alluvial soil, rather heavy. | | |A single track with naal grass on | | |either side. | | | | | |Distances are given exclusive of | | |detours down to meshras. | | | _Gebuib_ | 18 | 198 |Meshra, very good. Good camping | | |ground; halfa grass. No | | |inhabitants. | | | | 10 | 208 |To _meshra_, about 3 miles. | | | | 6 | 214 |Ditto. | | | _Umraho_ | 4 | 218 |Ditto. Very good meshra; deep | | |khors on either side. Bend in | | |river to east; ford (27th Oct. | | |1901). Country near meshra very | | |broken and rough. On turning down | | |this meshra the tops of two small | | |hills are visible on right front. | | |From here road about 3 miles from | | |river; going gets harder when | | |nearing Asubri. | | | | 8 | 226 |In line between the two hills and | | |Kassala hill. | | | | 10 | 236 |To _meshra_. | | | Omara | 1 | 237 |Small village, about ½ mile E. of | | |road. | | | | 3 | 240 |To _meshra_, good. E. 3 miles to | | |river. Fair camp; abu rokba, but | | |no halfa grass. | | | | 3 | 243 |To Asubri. The road here divides | | |at right angles: left to Asubri, | | |right direct to El Fasher, | | |described as about 30 miles and | | |track far from river. Therefore | | |took river road—very bad. | | | _Asubri_ | 3 | 246 |Asubri. From here road goes about | | |1 mile from river and becomes very | | |good and hard. Country open with | | |trees and short grass. After 10 | | |miles becomes “Karrab” (ground | | |broken by small water courses) | | |again. | | | | 12 | 258 |A _meshra_. Hundreds of camels, | | |thousands of sheep and goats | | |belonging to Lahawin Arabs. Good | | |meshra. Bad camp; no grass. | | | | 13 | 271 |El Fasher District. Country | | |changes to park-like land—short | | |grass dotted with trees. | | | El Fasher | 2 | 273 |El Fasher village and fort. Water | | |from ford. | | | Ford | 4 | 277 |Ford; good meshra and camp. Last ½ | | |mile “karrab”; Abu Rokba grass. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 17.—KHARTOUM NORTH TO ABU DELEIG. COMPILED IN INTELLIGENCE OFFICE, KHARTOUM. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Khartoum, | — | — |Railway terminus, &c. The road North | | |leads nearly due east, _viâ_ tomb | | |and well of Haj Yusef (Batahin), Bir Haj Yusef | 4½ | 4½ |about 80 feet deep, water good but | | |not plentiful, to Bir Babekr, Bir Babekr | 4½ | 9 |about 110 feet deep, water good | | |and plentiful. Scattered salam and | | |tundab bush. Inhabitants Batahin. | | | | | |After leaving Babekr the road | | |traverses bare level ground | | |covered with scattered samr and | | |selem trees. Hafir Medeisis, where | | |Hassania Arabs live and extract | | |salt during the rainy season, is | | |passed, and later Hafir El Wadi, | | |near which is a low stony hill | | |named El Gaber. Near Kalamon are | | |hafirs named Nuba and Um Denun, | | |where also salt is extracted by | | |the Hassania. | | | Bir Kalamon | 8 | 17 |Well 180 feet deep, water rather | | |salt, but very plentiful. From | | |here the direct road passes Hafir | | |El Kheila, the country is flat and | | |covered with scattered samr trees | | |and homra and meharib grass. The | | |road leads to a stony hill named J. Dura | 12 | 29 |J. Dura, after which the following | | |tanks are passed: Jan Kilwa, Um | | |Gedodeima, and Gala Um Johanis, | | |over which the road passes; beyond | | |this is Wadi Safra, where Hassania | | |Arabs cultivate. | | | Wad Hassuna | 30 | 59 |A village of mud houses and well | | |of this name; also the tomb of | | |Sheikh Hassan Wad Hassuna, near | | |which is a large hafir called | | |Ghobasha. Natives here Hassania, | | |under Sheikh Hassan Meki. Country | | |continues flat, and covered here | | |and there with kitr and samr | | |trees, also homra and meharib | | |grass; road is stony and several | | |khors cross it. | | | Hafir Kabarus | 4½ | 63½ |After Hafir Kabarus, three others | | |by name El Biyut are past. | | | Hafir Amria | 7 | 70½ |A very large tank, J. El Sada, is | | |passed to the south. | | | Bir Agab | 8½ | 79 |Two wells, about 90 feet deep, | | |water good and plentiful. | | |Mogharba, Hassania, Batahin and | | |Ababda Arabs live about here. | | |Several hafirs here, chief of | | |which are Alatib and Balako. The | | |latter lies 1½ miles south of the | | |road, and is said to have been dug | | |by the “Kufr” or heathen. | | | Khor Jegjegi | — | — |After leaving Agab the road soon | | |runs alongside Khor Jegjegi, which | | |it continues to follow to Abu | | |Deleig. Kittr, sayal, heglig, and | | |samr trees border the khor, which | | |some 8 to 10 miles further east | | |joins Wadi Hawad. There are about | | |50 wells in the Abu Deleig | | |district, 70 to 100 feet deep, but | | |in the rainy season water can be | | |obtained from Khor Jegjegi near | | |the surface. At Abu Deleig all the | | |natives live in dom-mat tents, and | | |here is the residence of Sheikh | | |Mohammed Talha, head Sheikh of the | | |Batahin, who are the principal | | |inhabitants. There is a police Abu Deleig | 10 | 89 |officer and police post here. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 18.—RUFAA TO GEILI. BY COLONEL HON. M. G. TALBOT, JANUARY, 1903. There are at least three roads. The western goes by Abu, or El, Gassas, a district apparently included in another called Rotamat (I am not sure of this). Last water at Abu Gassas. It afterwards passes some cultivation, but no water except in autumn. The eastern goes by Tundub and Wad Arrak, where last water is, and joins the middle road about 10 miles from Geili. The middle one was followed, and is described below. No real road to begin with, simply tracks from village to village. For the first 9 miles, as far as the village of Kemeilab, through cultivation all the way. Several villages on either side of road. Then through thin laot bush, but plenty of cultivation round about. ----------+---------------+---------------+--------------------------- | Hours. | Miles. | Place. +--------+------+--------+------+ Description. | Inter- |Total.| Inter- |Total.| |mediate.| |mediate.| | ----------+--------+------+--------+------+--------------------------- Rufaa | — | — | — | — |Track is good all the way; | | | | |no steep gradients, | | | | |difficult khors, nor thick | | | | |bush. Probably bad after | | | | |rain. | | | | | _Tunbul El| 4 | 4 | 12 | 12 |Good sized village of Jaalin_ | | | | |Jaalin, with well. There | | | | |are two other villages | | | | |close by called Tunbul El | | | | |Agada and Tunbul El Eishab. | | | | |Cultivation all the way; | | | | |many villages seen. | | | | | _Abu Zeid,| 3 | 7 | 9 | 21 |A poor village. Well 250 Wad Um | | | | |yards S.E.; village of Balli_ | | | | |Musaiab close by to N. | | | | |Track continues mostly | | | | |through thin low laot bush, | | | | |but some cultivation is | | | | |passed. Some villages lie | | | | |on right, but are not | | | | |conspicuous. Passes village | | | | |of Um Hageir. | | | | | _Um | 2¾ | 9¾ | 8 | 29 |Thin straggling village; Shinshin, | | | | |well, on road; last water or Um | | | | |on road. On through low Shinashin_| | | | |laot and grass, with very | | | | |little cultivation, passing | | | | |the small village of El | | | | |Gura; no well; last village | | | | |on road. | | | | | Um Ganatir| — | — | 5 | 34 |Tank, a boundary point of | | | | |Rufaa District, used to be | | | | |a man’s depth, but now | | | | |nearly filled up. | | | | | Mufad Wad | — | — | 7 | 41 |Tank. Dereid | | | | | | | | | | | 4½ | 14¼ | 1 | 42 |Road crosses a belt of laot | | | | |giving good firewood; no | | | | |more for two hours, though | | | | |there are belts of kittr a | | | | |mile or two on each side. | | | | |Geili just visible 29½° | | | | |(true). Jebel Lebaitor just | | | | |visible in early morning to | | | | |S. On over grassy plain, | | | | |apparently rising. | | | | |Direction of road some | | | | |degrees E. of Geili. | | | | | Wadi Mofad| 2¼ | 16½ | 6½ | 48½ |Marked by a belt of thin | | | | |kittr some 250 yards wide. | | | | |Must be boggy after rain. | | | | |Two tanks on each side of | | | | |wadi. The place is called | | | | |something like Rufa Wa | | | | |Fagusa, Rufa applying to | | | | |one pair of tanks and | | | | |Fagusa to the other, but I | | | | |am not sure of the names, | | | | |nor which applies to which. | | | | | | | | | |The Wadi Mofad, I was | | | | |assured, rises near Abu | | | | |Deleig, and flows S. The | | | | |wadis of Bahogi and Ankia | | | | |passed on the Um | | | | |Dibban—Geili road form part | | | | |of it. | | | | | | | | | |E. of the wadi the Tundub | | | | |road joins in, and the | | | | |united road makes straight | | | | |for Jebel Geili. | | | | | | 2¼ | 18¾ | 6½ | 55 |Road crosses a branch of | | | | |Wadi Mofad coming from the | | | | |E. of Jebel Geili. Some | | | | |kittr and other trees. | | | | |Track begins to get stony, | | | | |particularly as Jebel Geili | | | | |is neared. | | | | | _J. Geili_| 2¼ | 21 | 6½ | 61½ |Wells at S. end of Jebel | | | | |Geili close to the carved | | | | |rock. ----------+--------+------+--------+------+--------------------------- 19.—GEDAREF TO KASSALA. BY LIEUT.-COL. MITFORD (1899) AND CAPTAIN H. H. MORANT (1900). The direct and more generally used road to Mogatta starts from Gedaref in a nearly northerly direction, and leaves J. Buadra about 1¼ miles to the right, and the scene of the battle of Gedaref ¼ of a mile on the left hand. After passing through much cultivation and high grass, the filthy village of Wad Gabu on the top of a small hill is reached. The water supply of this village is from a well some 2½ or 3 miles to the W. or S.W., and animals have to be sent there, as very little water is obtainable at the village itself. There is a rest house here. J. Kassamon is visible nearly due N. About 2¼ miles further on the telegraph line and an alternative route from Gedaref, _viâ_ Seraf El Buadra and Bir Rowajda, which is generally dry, joins in. From here to R. Atbara, at Mogatta, there is no water, and the country is most uninteresting. In the rains the scrub and scattered bush is almost concealed by high grass; this is burnt in the dry season, and the country then is bare black cotton soil, and devoid of any grazing for animals. About 12 miles from the river dense bush, chiefly kittr, begins, and continues until the halting place at Mogatta is reached. This road is nearly 20 miles shorter than that _viâ_ Sofi. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Gedaref | — | — |The track to Sofi leaves Gedaref | | |in a N.E. direction, passing down | | |a valley between gardens, | | |cultivation and high grass; | | |several hamlets half a mile | | |distant on either side of road. A | | |gentle ascent on N. side of valley | | |to N.E. corner of a low flat hill | | |called J. Buadra. | | | _Khor Seraf El| 3 | 3 |This khor crosses the path near Buadra_ | | |corner of J. Buadra. One well, | | |upper portion stone faced; 24 feet | | |deep, 5 feet diameter, 4 feet of | | |water. Two similar wells near | | |track, one ½ a mile, the other 1 | | |mile further on. From this point | | |track is a single camel path, | | |winding among high grass or | | |through bush; in places very | | |stony. Ground on either flank | | |cracked cotton soil. | | | | 2 | 5 |Top of pass is reached; the small | | |hamlets of Um Shedra, Hissainad, | | |and Turfur are seen in succession | | |on the left hand of the track. | | | | 2½ | 7½ |A rise in the ground known as | | |Gumerab is reached. On far side of | | |it track descends sharply for 40 | | |feet, over rocks and stones on to | | |a plain. General direction E. by | | |N. Some dukhn or dura patches; | | |rest of the ground covered with | | |high aada and shush grass. 5 feet | | |high. | | | | 4¼ | 11¾ |A copse of talh trees is passed | | |through. For the next 5 miles are | | |scattered trees along the path, | | |with copses of hashab trees a few | | |hundred yards to a mile on either | | |side; shush, aada, naal and | | |Umdenaib grasses. | | | | 4¾ | 16½ |A shallow excavation to catch | | |rain-water is seen on left, 100 | | |yards off. General direction | | |E.N.E. At the 24th and 27th miles, | | |two more small rain-water | | |reservoirs are passed. | | | Khor Bitnasr | 15½ | 32 |This khor is here crossed; it | | |trends northwards and runs into | | |the Khor Tomat. Ground now ascends | | |slightly and is more broken, and | | |track crosses several small khors. | | |At the 34th mile the edge of the | | |plateau is reached, and a sharp | | |descent of 90 feet ensues. | | | _Sofi_ (Rest | 3 | 35 |A straggling village of a hundred house) | | |men (Jaalin) on spurs running down | | |to the Atbara 400 yards away. At | | |date the river is easily fordable, | | |the water not being knee deep and | | |20 yards broad near the village. | | |From this point the track as far | | |as El Fasher follows the course of | | |the river on the left bank, and | | |distant from it 1 to 5 miles. The | | |bush and jungle prevent approach | | |from the track, except at the | | |watering places in use. From Sofi | | |the track winds up to the plateau | | |in a N.W. direction along and in | | |khors. On reaching this plateau, | | |after a mile, the track bears | | |generally due N. Quarter of a mile | | |of dura cultivation is passed | | |through, then the path runs along | | |the flat top of a watershed | | |draining into the Atbara on the | | |right, and into the Khor Tomat on | | |the left. | | | | | |One and a half miles E. of the | | |Atbara the Setit runs parallel | | |with the river and the khor until | | |its junction with the former. | | |Going is now very bad, kittr, | | |laot, talh and sant close to the | | |path; cracked cotton soil. At the | | |43rd mile the track descends with | | |twists and turns towards the | | |river, and just before reaching | | |Khor Tomat some salt workings are | | |passed through. | | | _Khor Tomat_ | 9½ | 44½ |The khor near its junction with (Rest house) | | |the river is 30 yards wide and 4 | | |feet deep. It takes its name from | | |a mound near the khor with two | | |knolls (Tomat = twins). Formerly | | |there were several hamlets in the | | |neighbourhood, but no traces | | |exist.[11] The nearest hillet to | | |the river was Wad Abu Hamed, just | | |N. of the khor. Easy access to | | |water at date. Track winds over | | |undulating ground intersected by | | |khors, below the plateau 1 to 2 | | |miles distant to the westward. | | |Trees not quite so thick or close. | | | _Khor Um | 4 | 48½ |The Atbara is again reached here, Garra_ | | |about 1 mile N. of its junction | | |with the Setit, which brings down | | |at this time of the year more | | |water than the Atbara, and appears | | |to be a broader and finer stream. | | | | | |Good watering place. | | | | | |The path leaves the river in a | | |N.W. direction over broken and | | |undulating ground for 1 mile. The | | |plateau is reached and again thick | | |bush and trees are passed through. | | |At 55 miles J. Akelai is visible | | |through a break in the trees, | | |nearly due E. | | | Khor Fatut | 11½ | 60 |Track winds down to this khor, and | | |then for 1½ miles passes over very | | |broken ground. Track then | | |improves; the country is not so | | |closely wooded, and several open | | |spaces are traversed. | | | _Mogatta_ | 10 | 70 |No village; grazing and watering (Rest house) | | |place of the nomad Arabs. The | | |river is 12 miles from the track. | | |Several large islands in the | | |Atbara here, the water in the dry | | |season passing down by the left | | |bank. Lions are plentiful here. | | | | | |Here the direct road from Gedaref | | |comes in. From this point the road | | |improves considerably. Troops can | | |move on a broader front, and the | | |soil, though still cotton, is not | | |so cracked; the earth has a | | |slightly red tinge. Occasionally | | |belts of bush are traversed. At | | |the 92nd mile the track descends, | | |and the ground becomes very | | |broken. The remains of an old | | |Dervish post on a spur are seen | | |400 yards to right. | | | _M. Khashm El | 23½ | 93½ |Track here meets the river; a Girba_ | | |tributary, or branch of the | | |Atbara, comes in here on the | | |opposite bank, with water still in | | |it. Broken country is again | | |traversed, and many knolls and | | |khors are passed until the plateau | | |is again reached. Trees are | | |larger, and ground covered with | | |gau grass, excellent for grazing | | |cattle and sheep. | | | Dervish earth | 3 | 96½ |A square Dervish earthwork, each work | | |side about 80 yards long, is | | |passed on right. This was the site | | |of El Fasher village when it | | |existed. | | | _El Fasher | 4 | 100½ |At date, river was 50 yards broad, ford_ (Rest | | |18 inches deep at the most at the house) | | |ford. | | | | | |Bottom of bed consists of shingle. | | |Quarter of a mile up stream on the | | |right bank is the site of the post | | |held by a detachment from the | | |Kassala garrison in 1898. | | | | | |On leaving the ford, track leads | | |up the ascent to the plateau for 2 | | |miles, and passes over very broken | | |country intersected by khors. Then | | |the path is excellent; large open | | |spaces are divided by belts of | | |trees. J. Kassala bears E.N.E. | | | El Mellawiya | 22 | 122½ |An open (now) grassy space, where | | |rain-water collects and stands | | |from July to October. Serut flies | | |bad at that season, also snakes. | | |Attempts to make a well here have | | |so far been abortive. | | | Old well | 5 | 127½ |An old government well is passed | | |on right, now filled in. Country | | |now becomes closer, and trees with | | |bright green leaves become more | | |numerous; track narrows | | |considerably[12] as the Khor El | | |Gash is reached, though movement | | |is possible between the trees on | | |either flank. At the 135th mile, | | |the minaret of the Khatmia is | | |visible to the right, and soon the | | |factory chimney of Kassala is | | |visible to the front. | | | Khor El Gash | 12½ | 140 |The left bank of this khor is | | |reached; 600 to 700 yards broad. | | | Kassala | ½ | 140½ |Old town and Egyptian fort, now in | | |ruins. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 20.—GEDAREF TO GALLABAT. BY COL. COLLINSON AND CAPTAIN H. H. MORANT, 1898. (_Corrected up to_ 1900.) --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Gedaref | — | — |From Gedaref the road usually | | |taken leads in a S.E. direction, | | |and passes through much _Wells_ | 2¼ | 2¼ |cultivation to wells situated in a | | |khor midway between the villages | | |of Dalasa and Gabeisha. From here | | |the road continues to pass through | | |rain cultivation, which extends on | | |both sides of the roads more or | | |less continuously almost as far as | | |the eye can reach until 6 or 7 | | |miles from Shasheina, after which | | |only occasional patches are seen. | | | Shasheina | 14¾ | 17 |Several groups of tukls belonging (Rest house) | | |to Debania and Takruris on western | | |slope of a low ridge. Two good | | |wells with any amount of good | | |water, roughly 30 to 40 feet down. | | | | | |Leaving here the track skirts the | | |bottom of the ridge and leads in a | | |southerly direction over stony, | | |bad going for about 2 miles, when | 7 | 24 |it bends to S.E. and passes over | | |an open plain to the E.; on the W. | | |forest begins. The wells of | | |Amzuani and Galaat Eila are passed | | |2½ miles and ¾ mile to the E. of | | |the track. | | | | | |J. Doka is now visible right | | |ahead. | | | | | |The path here enters forest which | | |continues to Doka. The soil black | | |cracked cotton soil and the path | | |is occasionally stony. Hashab, | | |soffar and talh are the trees that | | |predominate. | | | _Doka_ (Rest | 21 | 45 |A very wretched village that has house) | | |seen better days. It used to be | | |the residence of a mudir or | | |important official in the old | | |government days. The remains of | | |his palace, &c., are still | | |standing. Two wells, very | | |indifferent supply; generally dry | | |in the middle of the day a few | | |months after the rains. | | | | | |There is a path from here to Abu | | |Gulud and Sofi, also to Nogara. On | | |leaving Doka several hills are | | |passed, the principal being J. | | |Doka 2 miles to the E., and | | |Ajerawi or Kajerawi to the W. | | |About 4 miles from Doka the route | | |from Asar joins in from the right. | | |This road is very little used, and | | |is hardly noticeable. The track | | |here becomes stony for a mile or | | |so. | | | Khor Kefaia | 8 | 53 |Khor Kefaia, running W. | | | Khor Kanin | 3½ | 56½ |Khor Kanin, also running W. | | | _Seraf Said_ | 10 | 66½ |Several small villages and two (Rest house) | | |wells in the khor of this name | | |which is the boundary between | | |Gedaref and Gallabat. Wells 30 to | | |40 feet deep; fair supply. From | | |here a road goes W. to Durraba[13] | | |near the Rahad, and there is a | | |track, made by honey hunters, to | | |the Atbara, which is 13 or 14 | | |miles eastwards. | | | | | |For the first 2 miles after | | |leaving the wells a good deal of | | |dura and dukhn cultivation is | | |passed through, and then forest | | |with some quite fine trees begins | | |and continues to within a mile of | | |Gallabat. | | | _Khor Kuneina_| 15 | 81½ |The hills of Ras El Fil, where (Rest house) | | |this khor originates, are passed 2 | | |miles on the right. Up to January | | |water is obtainable slowly from | | |holes about 3 feet deep in its | | |bed. Later these become dry. Fine | | |ardeib tree. Thick forest, chiefly | | |talh and heglig, continues to Khor _Khor Otruk_ | 7 | 88½ |Otruk, where water stands in a | | |pool all the year round. There are | | |also wells near, from which | | |several small villages obtain | | |their water. | | | | | |The road now ascends an easy slope | | |for about 2 miles, and hills are | | |passed to the right and left. From | | |the top of this ascent Gallabat is | | |visible, and ½ mile before | | |reaching it a small khor with | | |_running water_ is crossed. | | | Gallabat | 4½ | 93 |Old fort of Zeki Tumal’s, 120 feet | | |above the town which lies at foot | | |of slope about 400 yards E. Water | | |from stream, which constitutes | | |boundary with Abyssinia, 800 yards | | |E. of fort. | | | | | |[There is an alternative route | | |_viâ_ Asar. This is however very | | |little used. It was taken by the | | |two companies of Soudanese troops | | |who first occupied Gallabat in | | |December, 1898. It had been | | |previously used a good deal by | | |Dervish fugitives to and from | | |Gedaref. The water supply along | | |the Doka road is now better and is | | |sufficient, if troops march at | | |night, without carrying any great | | |amount of water:— | | | Gedaref | — | — |A rather stony track in places | | |leads across open country covered _Asar_ | 10 | 10 |with high grass and dura to Asar. | | |This is a Debania village and | | |residence of their head Sheikh, | | |Wad Zaid, and is situated at the | | |S.W. end of a ridge 300 feet high | | |and 1½ miles long, running nearly | | |N. and S. Here there are two good | | |wells which supplied Ahmed Fedil’s | | |force of 3,000 to 4,000 men | | |besides women, &c., for more than | | |three weeks. A road leads from | | |here to Beila, also to Shasheina. | | | | | |Leaving Asar, several deserted | | |villages were passed, and after | | |traversing undulating open country | | |for 8 miles, talh and soffar | | |forest commences. | | | _Khor Tagala_ | 15 | 25 |Water in holes in rocks by the | | |road side. It has the usual | | |stagnant rain-water taste and | | |smell, but is said to last all the | | |year round. Large baobab close to | | |water. The track continues through | | |forest with occasional open spaces _Khor Ardeiba_| 15 | 40 |to Khor Ardeiba. | | | | | |A large khor running W. between | | |hills. Water is found in several | | |places in the rock on the side of | | |the hill on left bank of khor. The | | |supply was very scanty at | | |beginning of December, and is not | | |to be relied on. | | | | | |For the first 3 or 4 miles after | | |leaving the bed of the khor the | | |track ascends and descends several | | |short steep slopes; trees | | |interfere with the path, which is | | |somewhat stony. It then crosses a | | |fairly open cotton soil plain to a | | |stone-lined well about 60 feet _J. Kajerawi_ | 10 | 50 |deep, at the foot of J. Kajerawi | | |or Ajerawi. As this well was not | | |in regular use, the water tasted | | |and smelt, but there was plenty of | | |it. | | | | | |Four miles on the track joins in | | |with the main road previously | | |described, about 5 miles S. of | | |Doka.] --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 21.—ABU HARAZ TO GEDAREF.[14] BY LIEUT.-COLONEL B. R. MITFORD, MARCH, 1899. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Abu Haraz | — | — |Half of a mile N. of junction of | | |R. Rahad and Blue Nile. Track | | |leads through the village in an E. | | |direction, and 4 miles over a | | |plain covered with grass 4 feet | | |high after rains; then some bush | | |is entered which necessitates | | |reducing front of the column to | | |file. The Rahad is from 1 to 1½ | | |miles distant on right flank, its | | |banks covered with a belt of | | |jungle. Track consists of four to | | |six camel tracks over cotton soil. | | | _Meshra El | 8 | 8 |Half a mile before reaching this Hedeiba_ | | |meshra, the road bends to the | | |S.E.; 1¼ miles E. is the village | | |of Hedeiba, and 2 to 3 miles N.E. | | |is the village of Shegeila. A | | |single flat-topped samr tree marks | | |nearest point for water. A large | | |pool of water always here during | | |the dry season in the river bed. | | |Track passes over grassy plain | | |covered with the usual grasses met | | |with along the road, viz.: aada | | |grass, which grows in wet places | | |as high as 18 feet, and naal, from | | |1½ to 3 feet high. | | | _Id El Maya_ | 2½ | 10½ |A descent of ½ mile brings one to | | |this khor skirted with trees; the | | |hamlet of that name lies 2 miles | | |from the river; a meshra and pool | | |here in the dry season. The hamlet | | |of Amara lies 2½ miles N.E. Same | | |country is traversed, with | | |occasional belt of trees. | | | Khor Abu | 5½ | 16 |Track passes this khor 1½ miles Seghira | | |from the meshra, which is very | | |difficult to find, owing to the | | |jungle and the creepers festooned | | |from tree to tree. No pool there | | |this dry season. | | | Khoran El Homr| 2 | 18 |The “Red Khor,” of which there are | | |three. The second one is 1½ miles | | |on, and the third 1 mile further | | |on. Each khor is thickly fringed | | |with trees, bush, and high grass, | | |after rains. The track is now some | | |3 or 4 miles from the Rahad. At | | |23½ miles another khor is crossed, | | |and the ground rises into a stony | | |plateau. | | | _H. Sherif | 6½ | 24½ |Track passes to E. of this Yagub_ | | |village. Inhabitants are Ashraf. | | | _M. El Egeiga_| ½ | 25 |Camping ground is on a bluff 40 | | |feet above bed of river; a pool of | | |water always here in the dry | | |season. Natives say that in the | | |winter months it is not a good | | |camping ground, as it is very | | |feverish at night. Country now | | |becomes much more close, trees and | | |bushes narrow the track in many | | |places, and in the autumn the high | | |grass obscures all view to front | | |or flanks. | | | _M. Abuet El | 5 | 30 |This meshra is only 100 yards from Messih_ | | |the track, but the river is | | |somewhat hidden by the jungle. | | |Very unhealthy camping ground | | |during the autumn and winter. | | |Track continues through bush, with | | |occasional open spaces. | | | _M. El Esheir_| 3 | 33 |Good camping ground near track, | | |500 yards from the river. Just | | |after leaving this place, the | | |Arang range can be seen in clear | | |weather. Track as before. | | | _Ein El | 7 | 40 |Watering place here, on the Rahad, Lueiga_ | | |in the dry season; not a good | | |camping ground during or after | | |rains, there being much fever. The | | |track now leaves the vicinity of | | |the Rahad, and for the first 5 | | |miles trends towards the N.E. | | |corner of the Arang hills. The | | |Kassala Province is entered here. | | | | | |At the 48th mile a depression is | | |passed, where a little water is | | |sometimes found during the rains. | | |Plain covered with grass 1 to 10 | | |feet high in October, which from | | |that month becomes broken down by | | |the wind, and in March is only 2 | | |feet high. Track twists and turns | | |considerably until the hills are | | |reached. | | | Galaat Arang | 18 | 58 |The track strikes these hills | | |about 4 or 5 miles from its S. | | |end; bush is again entered, and | | |track becomes very stony and | | |covered with fallen boulders from | | |the hills. | | | | | |The hills are mostly rock, covered | | |with laot, and stunted baobab or | | |tebeldi trees. Ariel, gazelle, | | |bustard, guinea fowl, sand grouse, | | |apes, and baboons in these hills. | | |A mile on two pools of water are | | |formed in a shallow rocky | | |depression during rains, which is | | |only fit for camels. Track follows | | |the foot of the hills towards the | | |N., through bush and over stony | | |ground. | | | _El Fau_ (Rest| 9 | 67 |Track passes through a gorge in house) | | |the hills, wherein are the wells | | |of El Fau, near the E. mouth of | | |the gorge. One well, stone faced, | | |10 feet in diameter, 27 feet deep; | | |surface of water 1 foot from top | | |in October, 10 feet in March. The | | |other, stone faced, 5 feet in | | |diameter, 15 to 20 feet deep. | | |Water, both good. There are | | |several other wells in the | | |vicinity during rains, and pools | | |of water in holes and depressions. | | | | | |Track runs along the E. foot of | | |the hills to the N. point; bushy | | |and stony. | | | North End | 5 | 72 |Near the N.W. point of the Arang Arang | | |hills is H. Badad, or H. Sheikh | | |Shah El Din; one well, now filled | | |up. General direction of track is | | |now N.E. To the S. is seen J. | | |Fines, or Fenis, and to the S.E. | | |is J. Sergein. Bush becomes very | | |close; cotton soil. | | | J. Bayuda | 8 | 80 |Or Buwa’da, or Buwada’. A broad, | | |low, conical hill; some water in | | |rocky holes during the rains. | | |Track now runs E. by S., and for | | |the next 8 miles through thick | | |bush; country then becomes more | | |open and covered with grass again. | | | Ummat Rumeila | 19 | 99 |A group of some five or six hills, (Rest house) | | |averaging 80 to 100 feet high. | | |Some water in pools and holes | | |during rains. The track passes in | | |a N.E. direction through the | | |hills; several patches of bush are | | |traversed. At the 110th mile a | | |narrow belt of laot trees, 10 | | |yards broad, commences to run | | |alongside or in the middle of the | | |track; this belt follows the road | | |for 13 miles. | | | Taras Wad El | 20 | 119 |A small depression, wherein water Fahl (Rest | | |lies during rains. Two thorn house) | | |bushes to S. of track mark it. | | | Khor Abu | 7 | 126 |A descent leads to this very Hashim | | |shallow khor, and a similar rise | | |takes place on its E. side. J. | | |Tiwawa now becomes visible to the | | |E. Track runs over a grassy plain | | |with not even a shrub on it. | | | Khor Abu | 11 | 137 |Or Abu Fura. This khor rises near Faraga | | |Gedaref, and at this point the | | |track meets it; it here turns S. | | |The track runs parallel with it | | |for a mile, 2 to 400 yards | | |distant. At the 139th mile ground | | |falls gently. | | | Um Gulgia | 3 | 140 |A stony mound on left of the track | | |containing several deep holes, | | |said to contain enough water for | | |1,000 men and 500 camels during | | |the rains. | | | | | |Ground still falls gently, and a | | |mile on a small khor is crossed; | | |then ground ascends through small | | |scattered soffar trees. At the | | |143rd mile the houses of Gedaref | | |are visible. Track passes several | | |hamlets on either side, and | | |through much cultivation and high | | |aada grass, along S. side of J. | | |Tiwawa. | | | Gedaref | 6 | 146 |On top of a long gentle slope. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 22.—GEDAREF _viâ_ HAWATA TO ABU HARAZ. BY MAJOR BULKELEY-JOHNSON, NOVEMBER, 1901. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Gedaref | — | — |Road leaves Gedaref from behind | | |the old barracks, and takes a S.W. | | |direction for 6 miles. Scattered | | |cultivation of every kind. A flat | | |basin like that N. of Gedaref. | | | J. Wad Sennat | 4½ | 4½ |Small hill 100 feet high and 500 | | |yards long, running N.W. and S.E., | | |with small hella S. slope. | | | _Abu Nagar_ | 1½ | 6 |Tukl village. ½ mile right of | | |road; one of Abu Nagar group of | | |five villages. | | | | ½ | 6½ |Ditto on left of road. | | | | ½ | 7 |Well 30 feet deep; water always, | | |but only 6 feet deep; watered 80 | | |horses in 30 minutes. | | | | ½ | 7½ |Hella ½ mile right of road. Road | | |bends to S.W. by W. | | | | 1½ | 9 |Cultivation ends. Road bad from | | |small bushes hidden in naal grass. | | | J. Matni | 17 | 26 |J. Matni ½ mile long, 50 to 100 | | |feet high; stony and covered with | | |habil trees. Woods round J. Matni | | |(soffar and habil) to the E. | | | | | |From J. Matni to Beila by direct | | |road 2 miles are saved. After J. | | |Matni road branches to right, | | |straight to Beila; left to Ghanem | | |or Ganam (meaning water holes). | | | _Ghanem_ | 3 | 29 |Small khor and 12 water holes | | |about 8 feet deep, and water 1 | | |foot 6 inches (Nov. 15th); | | |probably dry by end of month | | |(1901), rain having been slightly | | |under average. | | | | 2 | 31 |Joins main road nearly at right | | |angles. | | | | 15½ | 46½ |Small hill ¼ mile off the road. | | |Road afterwards curls in between | | |it and Beila to two small hellas | | |on far side. | | | _Beila_[15] | ½ | 47 |Two small villages and two | | |splendid wells cut in solid rock; | | |any amount of beautiful clear | | |water all the year round[15], 50 | | |feet deep; revetted at top; very | | |good grasses here. From Beila a | | |road now goes to Mafaya on the | | |Rahad, which is much shorter than | | |going to Hawata. | | | _El Fereikh_ | 5 | 52 |Thirty tukls; inhabited all the | | |year road; now water from holes | | |dry in March, 1902. | | | _J. Arid_ | 5 | 57 |Four water holes 6 inches deep, | | |nearly empty on arrival; when | | |opened up to 9 inches gave 3 feet | | |muddy water. Nov. 17th watered 80 | | |horses three times; dry in March, | | |1902. | | | J. Gerein | — | — |Water nearly finished; 30 tukls | | |inhabited all year round.[16] | | |Later on get water from Rahad, | | |which is here about 60 yards wide | | |and water 4 feet deep in Nov. | | |Banks steep. | | | _Hawata_ | 18 | 75 |Very good camp. Fairly large | | |village here. | | | | | |Road follows the river, never more | | |than 2 miles from it, cutting off | | |small bends. Single track; good | | |through long grass; bad for guns | | |as wheels or teams are going | | |through the grass. River | | |approachable everywhere, and | | |watering possible at all times of | | |year. | | | | | |Camps exceedingly good under shade | | |of sunt trees 30-40 feet high. | | |Grasses in abundance and good, | | |neghil, abu rokba and abu arid. | | | | | |From Hawata track proceeds along | | |right bank and enters bush. | | | _Wad Keriam_ | 2½ | 77½ |Part of Hawata belonging to Abu | | |Bakr; small hills; clearing and | | |cultivation. | | | | ½ | 78 |Ten tukls, ditto, ditto. | | | | | |Bush and grass alternately; thick | | |bush, inland kittr and talh. | | | | 8 | 86 |Grass plain. Bend of river meeting | | |it again at | | | _Wad Kerein_ | 5 | 91 |Fifty tukls belonging to Abu Sin, | | |as does all the country up to | | |hella Sherif El Hindi. | | | _Wad Mayim_ or| 2 | 93 |Same as Wad Kerein. Wad Balula | | | | | | | 8 | 101 |Road crosses to left bank. Ford on | | |Nov. 13th, about 3 feet deep; Nov. | | |24th, 6 inches deep. There is no | | |road on E. bank, only thick bush. | | |From here open grass plain, bush | | |inland, ½ mile off river bends | | |from road. | | | | | |Between road and river a strip of | | |country with big red sunt trees | | |30-40 feet high and good grasses. | | |The road now strikes khor—thickly | | |wooded leading to lagoon running | | |W. from river, which turns to | | |S.W., road goes round it turning | | |W. and afterwards S. | | | | 7 | 108 |Head of lagoon. | | | _Muttu_ | ½ | 108½ |Road branches to right of | | |hella—Hawata (Arabs) 1½ miles | | |off—300 yards from river in open | | |bush. | | | | 1½ | 110 |Road to Muttu and meshra, 1 mile | | |of thick bush, kitr and talh. | | | | 1 | 111 |Khor (dry). | | | | 2 | 113 |Big khor, nearly dry—very | | |difficult during rains and up to | | |Nov. 1st, 1901. Soft mud Nov. | | |27th. | | | | 2½ | 115½ |Small road to right, leading to | | |big khor thickly wooded, water 4 | | |feet deep or lagoon. | | | | 1½ | 117 |Khor (dry). | | | | 2½ | 119½ |Ditto leading to meshra. | | | | | |Road alternately bush and grass. | | | | 6½ | 126 |Road branches to meshra. | | | | 6 | 132 |Approaches meshra, 200 yards. | | | | 11 | 143 |Deserted village, 100 yards left | | |of road. | | | | | |Road very good, broad and hard. | | | | 3 | 146 |Cross road from Rahad to Dinder. | | | | 10 | 156 |Ditto to Blue Nile. | | | | 1 | 157 |Road from meshra to hella, inland | | |2 miles. | | | | 4 | 161 |Opposite to Ein El Lueiga. | | | | 3 | 164 |Road branches to right towards | | |river—left to Sherif El Hindi. | | | Aruth Rutha | 2 | 166 |Road to Hella Aruth. | | | Hafeira | 2½ | 168 |Hella; Arab encampment; flocks and | | |herds. | | | Wad Rekeih | 1½ | 170 |Hella, 100 yards right of road. | | | Sherif | 2 | 172 |Hella of Sherif Yusef El Hindi. | | | | 4½ | 176½ |Ford and road to Sherif Yakub. | | |Road crosses river. | | | Abu Haraz | 24½ | 201 |(Afterwards _see_ map). | | | | | |[Rahad ceased to flow Nov. 30th, | | |1901; only a slight trickle on | | |29th.] --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 23.—SOFI _viâ_ ABU GULUD TO SERAF SAID. BY MAJOR G. DE H. SMITH, FEBRUARY, 1900. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Sofi | — | — |Road goes down into khor and then | | |winding through bushes and water | | |courses follows crest of ridge | | |between Atbara and Khor Gurri, | | |then turns E. towards Kreder. | | | Kreder | 6 | 6 |A village of about 100 huts on | | |spur above river, and not as shown | | |on old maps. | | | _Sherif | 9 | 15 |There is no road now; I went Ibrahim_ | | |across country, crossing ravines | | |bordering Atbara, camels followed | | |edge of plateau about 5 hours’ | | |march from Sofi. No village, only | | |tombs of former inhabitants. Path | | |leads from village to Meshra on | | |Atbara. | | | _Dabuli_ | 12 | 27 |Left Sherif Ibrahim in a S.W. | | |direction, and after 1 hour struck | | |old path from Sofi; followed this, | | |and after 2 hours came on | | |cultivation. A big khor runs in | | |N.E. direction towards Atbara. | | |There are old wells here and site | | |of village. New wells are being | | |opened. | | | _Goreisha_ | 15 | 42 |Road now crosses khor above | | |mentioned twice, and after 2 hours | | |J. Tomborgu is passed on the | | |right. From here road crosses | | |three big khors, and in the next | | |Khor J. Omrad, then cultivation of | | |Goreisha is reached on left of | | |road. Right side, thick bush. | | |Another hour and Goreisha is | | |reached; two villages with good | | |wells and cultivation in khor. | | | _Abu Gulud_ | 4 | 46 |Road now crosses and recrosses | | |this khor, which runs from Abu | | |Gulud; after half an hour village | | |of Salama is passed on khor on | | |right, and after half hour arrive | | |at Abu Gulud. Two villages; wells | | |and cultivation. From here a track | | |goes to Doka. | | | _Zemalat_ | 20 | 66 |Road leaves here in S.W. | | |direction; about 1 mile Agala, a | | |large village, is passed; about 4 | | |miles on a rocky ridge; ditto | | |about 8 miles; about 10 miles | | |village Lubaina. Few huts here. | | |People only here for cultivation; | | |water from Zemalat village on | | |crest or ridge. Water from holes | | |in khor below village, about 1 | | |mile away. From here a good view | | |of hills near Doka and J. Nahut, | | |J. Gadabi, and Ras El Fil | | |obtainable. | | | _Seraf Said_ | 10 | 76 |Road now descends from ridge, | | |cotton soil and bad going; about 6 | | |miles out J. Meriod is passed on | | |right of track—village round other | | |side of hill. Direct track leads | | |off to right to village; bad going | | |cotton soil. Rocky water hole in | | |Meriod Khor not used now; about | | |10th mile cross Seraf Khor. | | | | | |Two wells with water-tracks lead | | |from here to Gallabat and Duraba, | | |and the road from Doka joins here. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 24.—FAMAKA TO ABU RAMLA. BY MAJOR C. W. GWYNN. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Abrunga | — | — |The direct route is up the khor | | |through the Samina group. Very | | |little water among these hills and | | |none on the road. | | | _Belitamaru_ | 14 | 14 |About 1 mile north of the village | | |and Belitamaru there are hills | | |giving a little bed water in the | | |Khor Godaff. | | | _Matongwe_ | 11 | 25 |Matongwe is a small Gumz village | | |among the rocks on the side and | | |top of J. Matongwe. Good well at | | |the foot of the mountain. The | | |mountain is a very striking needle | | |of rock jutting straight out of | | |the plain. | | | _J. Abu Ramla_| 12 | 37 |No more water is found till J. Abu | | |Ramla is reached, and even there | | |it can only be obtained in any | | |quantity from the Khor Ramla at | | |north-east end of mountain. There | | |are holes in the rock on the hill | | |side, however, which supply the Mek’s Village | 3 | 40 |villages with drinking water. | | | | | |Another route can be taken from | | |Famaka along the Nile to Hoburra, | | |and thence to Belitamaru through | | |Abrunga, but the first portion of | | |the road along the river is very | | |bad. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 25.—KARKOJ TO HAWATA. BY MR. E. BONHAM CARTER, MARCH, 1902. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Karkoj | — | — |R. bank Blue Nile. | | | | | |From Karkoj, a narrow but well | | |defined track leads through bush, | | |thick in places, to the village of _Kamrab_ | 18 | 18 |Kamrab, half a mile beyond which | | |is a well and trees giving | | |excellent shade. | | | _Abu Hashim_ | 4½ | 22½ |The R. Dinder is reached at Abu | | |Hashim (Sheikh El Amin), a village | | |on the left bank. The Dinder 100 | | |yards wide was dry here (March, | | |1902), but there were water holes | | |in its bed. | | | _Meshra | 12½ | 35 |The road here crosses the Dinder Deberki_ | | |and follows the river to Meshra | | |Deberki. River dry here, and about | | |100 yards wide, but water holes in | | |bed, and there is a large pool | | |about ¼ mile up the river. No | | |village here. Little shade at | | |Meshra, but plenty ½ mile further | | |up the river. | | | | | |The track here leaves the river, | | |and after crossing an open piece | | |passes through thick bush for 2 | | |miles, after which an open grassy | | |plain with scattered bush extends | | |for some distance. | | | | | |The track is merely a single | | |donkey track over deeply cracked | | |cotton soil, and is bad going. | | | Khor Atshan | 17 | 52 |Khor Atshan is crossed; a shallow | | |khor draining into the Dinder. | | | _River Rahad_ | 16 | 68 |Track continues same with | | |occasional bush to the Rahad; a | | |few tukls here. Rahad in pools. | | | _Hawata_ | 3 | 71 |Three miles on down stream, Hawata | | |is reached on the right bank. Here | | |there is a pool a ¼ mile long. | | |Fine sunt trees. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 26.—ROSEIRES TO ABU SHANEINA BY RIGHT BANK. BY MAJOR C. W. GWYNN, R.E., 1900. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Roseires | — | — |Mamuria, about 50 feet above the | | |river on one of the steep spurs, | | |which form the escarpment between | | |the general level of the country | | |and the lower river bank. For the | | |first 2 miles the road winds round | | |these spurs close to the river. | | |The road hilly. Then leaving the | | |river it gets into flat country | | |with thick thorn bush. | | | | 2¾ | 2¾ |Path leads to El Damazin, a small | | |village on the river (not | | |visited). | | | _Abu Zago_ | 2¾ | 5½ |Village lies to the east of the | | |road and N. of the khor (not | | |visited). | | | _Khor Abu | 1 | 6½ |A well defined channel 20 yards Zagoli_ | | |wide, banks 10 feet high, and | | |steep. Halting place for water 200 | | |yards S. of the khor. Water from | | |the Nile about 1 mile. Cultivation | | |at the mouth of the khor. Shelter | | |tukls at halting place. | | | _El Kharaba_ | 3 | 9½ |Three ways lead to the village | | |which lies E. of the road not | | |visited. Recognised camping | | |ground, much overgrown with trees | | |and little clear space. No tukls, | | |¼ mile to water. From here to | | |about the 15th mile the river is | | |inaccessible, country flat, road | | |good. At 15 miles it approaches | | |the river on a high bluff, and | | |Dakhila can be seen. Thence road | | |descends and would in the wet | | |season be very swampy. Thick | | |jungle. | | | _Dakhila_ | 8½ | 18 |Small village of about 30 tukls. | | |Lies very low and has all the | | |appearance of being feverish. | | | | | |Water supply in the dry season | | |from a muddy pool in a dried up | | |channel, bad. | | | | | |From Dakhila the road runs W. | | |following the river, passing the | | |spurs of J. Maba at about the 22nd | | |mile, road hilly and stony. After | | |passing Maba, country is more | | |open. | | | Khor Abu Ge | 7 | 25 |Stony 100 yards wide, banks steep. | | | Khor Aiwani | ½ | 25½ |100 yards wide, thickly wooded, | | |slopes easy. | | | _Khor Yabis_ | ½ | 26 |A well defined channel 20 yards | | |wide, river within easy reach | | |between Khor Aiwani and Khor | | |Yabis. | | | Khor Yare | 1½ | 27½ |A well defined channel 10 yards | | |wide. | | | _Abu Gemai_ | 1½ | 29 |Rest tukls on high bank commanding | | |a fine view of the river. Very | | |good camping ground for small | | |party. Water close, but road to it | | |steep. Village of Abu Gemai on | | |opposite bank, considerable | | |cultivation. J. Fazogli visible. | | | | | |After Abu Gemai the road leaves | | |the river, and water is not | | |obtainable for some way. | | | Khor Zarifa | 4 | 33 |Very stony, 25 yards wide, said to | | |rise in J. Dimr, but more probably | | |in J. Samina. Forms boundary | | |between Fazogli and Roseires. | | | Khor Abu Gerin| 4½ | 37½ |15 yards wide, sandy. About 1 | | |mile, and 2 miles further on are | | |two small khors and dom palms | | |begin. | | | _Ardeiba_ | 3 | 40½ |Recognised halting place, but | | |tukls burnt down. Water 200 yards | | |distant. River narrows to about | | |150 yards, river bank consisting | | |of shingle cliffs. Village of | | |Ardeiba opposite scattered tukls | | |with little cultivation. | | | Khor El | 1½ | 42 |Wide valley ½ mile, well defined Masella | | |channel in middle. | | | _Khor El | 2¼ | 44¼ |Road to Famaka goes straight on, Ghana_ | | |that to Abu Shaneina turns down | | |the bed of the khor and leads to | | |the ferry. Very rough stony | | |foreshore. | | | _Abu Shaneina | ¾ | 45 |One boat capable of taking horses. Ferry_ | | |Crossing about 300 yards. Village | | |consists of scattered tukls among | | |cultivation. Starting place for | | |most of the caravans to Beni | | |Shangul and Fadassi. Gold coinage | | |(native) obtainable, also sheep | | |and dura. A few donkeys. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 27.—SENGA _viâ_ DURRABA TO UM EL RUG. BY CAPTAIN H. F. S. AMERY, MARCH, 1903. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Mena | — | — |Opposite to Senga, on R. bank Blue | | |Nile, Sheikh Adlan, descendant of | | |Fung Sultans of Sennar Fungs and | | |Hawazma. Broad well, defined | | |track, good going. | | | _Lueisa_ (on | 15½ | 15½ |Sheikh Ali Wad Idris, El Hamada, Dinder) | | |and some Ashraf. At Lueisa also | | |lives Sheikh El Agab, Head Sheikh | | |of Dinder. | | | | | |Track keeps away from river to cut | | |off bends, direction about S.E. | | |Cultivation near village. | | | Um Saba | 7½ | 23 |Jungle closes in on both sides | | |track after Kakum. | | | Khamisa | 4½ | 27½ |Track well defined, soon after | | |Khamisa enters bed of river, and _Abu Hashim_ | 7½ | 35 |comes out again same side. | | |Cultivation at villages, dura and | | |semsem. | | | El Hagar | — | — | | | | _Murafa_ | 7½ | 42½ |Most of villages on Dinder are | | |near pools, some have to dig for | | |water in river bed. | | | Wad Bashush | 2½ | 45 |Some game seen, oribi, reedbuck, | | |&c. | | | _Durraba_ | 7½ | 52½ |Last inhabited place on Dinder. | | | _Meshra | 8 | 60½ |Large pool. Sherif_ | | | | | | „ _Rekeba_ | — | — |Path less clearly defined; black | | |cotton soil, badly cracked; „ _Abgir_ | 5½ | 66 |shadeless; tracks and droppings of | | |elephants abundant from Duraba | | |whole way up Dinder. After this | | |see no more people on Dinder. | | | _Koka_ | — | — | | | | _El Laban_ | — | — | | | | _Refadik_ | 12½ | 78½ |All places from Durraba onwards | | |are only water pools, but were | | |mostly hellets in old government | | |days. Water on Dinder excellent | | |throughout, pools more frequent | | |higher up river. | | | _Wad El Haj_ | 11 | 89½ |After Refadik country looks more | | |interesting, and good deal of game | | |seen, ariel plentiful, fresh | | |elephant and buffalo tracks. From | | |here a track made by game cuts | | |across large bend of river for | | |about 2 miles. The only means of | | |progress for hamla after this is | | |in bed of river. Sand heavy, but | | |suits the camels well. | | | _Meshra Gazar_| 5 | 94½ | | | | _Khor Gelagu_ | 10½ | 105 | | | | „ Masawik | 1½ | 106½ | | | | Beit El Wahesh| — | — | | | | _El Dueim_ | 7 | 113½ | | | | _Semsir_ | 2½ | 116 |Name applies to district around. | | | _Um Bilbis_ | 13 | 129 | | | | _Um El Rug_ | 4½ | 133½ |In this neighbourhood game is | | |plentiful, such as elephant, | | |buffalo, roan, hartebeest, tiang, | | |ariel reedbuck, ostrich, warthog, | | |&c. There are also heglig, talh, | | |kittr, hashab, sunt, kakamot and | | |suba trees. Forests much damaged | | |by jungle fires all along Dinder. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 28.—MOUTH OF KHOR GELAGU (DINDER) TO GALLABAT. BY CAPTAIN H. F. S. AMERY, MARCH, 1903. --------------+----------------------+-------------------------------- | Miles. | +-------------+--------+ Place. | | Total | Description. |Intermediate.| from | | |Durraba.| --------------+-------------+--------+-------------------------------- _Khor Gelagu_ | — | 53½ |A tributary on R. bank of | | |Dinder, 53½ miles above Durraba. | | | | | |Track (made by game) keeps away | | |from Gelagu on R. bank, going _Farsh El | — | — |pretty good; woods (not dense) Ghani_ | | |alternating with large open | | |plains, covered with high grass, „ „ _Sanei_ | — | — |called farshes. Ras Amer is a | | |long shallow lake, the west end _Maya Ras | 6 | 59½ |about 1 mile from Gelagu (which Amer_ (west | | |winds very much), at this time end of) | | |(March) 2 miles long E. and W. | | |by 150 to 300 yards broad. East | | |end about 2½ miles from Gelagu. | | |Open plains; either end of lake | | |swarming with game, water of | | |lake very thick and slimy, with | | |fishy taste owing to millions of | | |pelicans, geese, &c. Gave | | |several of our men sore throats. | | | Camp | 7½ | 67 |Strike N.N.E. for Rahad (camp on | | |road), badly cracked cotton | | |soil, yellow reed grass and | | |sparsely scattered trees, but no | | |obstacle to hamla marching in | | |any direction across country, | | |provided a couple of men go in | | |front with axes to lop off | | |branches. | | | _Warre_ | 10½ | 77½ |Strike Rahad at Warre, which | | |like all places mentioned here | | |on the Rahad, used to be | | |flourishing hella in old | | |government days, but now | | |absolutely deserted, and nothing | | |to show that human beings have Wad Dam | 2½ | 80 |ever been there. | | | _Wad Shusha_ | 2½ | 82½ |River winds very much going | | |alternately in every direction | | |of compass, but doubtful if any | | |time saved by marching through | | |jungle on either bank-bed 50 to | | |80 yards wide. | | | _Araki_ | 6 | 88½ |All these places are on good | | |pools. | | | _Deleib Mugda_| 4 | 92½ | „ „ „ | | | _El Ebeik_ | 4 | 96½ | „ „ „ | | | _Wad Arud_ | 5 | 101½ | „ „ „ | | | _Um Dakin_ | 2½ | 104 | „ „ „ | | | | | |Bed of river begins to be rocky | | |in places and going rough and | | |bad for loaded camels; pools | | |more numerous, not over 40 yards | | |wide in most places. | | | _Mukleil_ | 5 | 109 |After here, better to march on | | |R. bank, river bed stony. | | | _Meshra Abid_ | 12 | 121 |Soon after M. Abid leave river | | |and strike N.E. for Gallabat, | | |soon strike on to track which | | |goes from Gallabat to Hawata | | |made by government last year. | | |This road was made chiefly to | | |enable cattle owners to take | | |their cattle down Rahad, but | | |they all prefer to go _viâ_ | | |Gedaref because of the lions. | | |The road is used to a small | | |extent by honey seekers from | | |Gallabat. Cotton soil badly | | |cracked. | | | _Babikr_ | 28½ | 149½ |No water till Babikr-hella; | | |consists of several small groups | | |of huts, cultivation, dukhn, | | |semsem, cotton, dura. | | |Inhabitants Takruris, Fors, | | |Gunjara, &c. Country begins to | | |be more undulating, red | | |sandstone, alternating with bad | | |cotton soil till Gallabat, stony | | |in parts, bad going for camels. | | | _Yunes_ | — | — |Village; well. | | | _Basunda_ | 6½ | 156 | „ „ | | | Kurunkula | — | — | | | | _Wallak_ | 14 | 170 |Sheikh of Gallabat and of these | | |villages—El Sheikh Sheraf | | |Abdalla. Well. | | | _Khor Otruk_ | 9 | 179 |Water in pool in khor. | | | Gallabat | 5½ | 184½ | --------------+-------------+--------+-------------------------------- 29.—GALLABAT TO WAD MEDANI, _viâ_ RIVER RAHAD.[17] BY CAPTAIN C. H. LEWIN, MARCH, 1902. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Gallabat | — | — |Route follows that to Gedaref as | | |far as Khor Otruk. | | | _Khor Otruk_ | 6 | 6 |Road here diverges to W., crossing | | |Khor Yabis. Water in holes in khor Khor Yabis | ½ | 6½ |to right of track under large | | |ardeib tree. Road proceeds W. up | | |valley through some cultivation | | |passing village of Sultan. | | | Sultan | ½ | 7 |Well in course of construction. | | |Water not yet (March, 1902) found | | |at 30 feet, but said to be near. | | | | | |Road winds on through forest, up | | |valley, high wooded hills on | | |either side, crosses spurs and | | |khors. Owing to loose stones and | | |steep gradients, camels can only | | |do 2½ miles an hour. | | | Ras El Fil | 3 | 10 |Track passes over low pass close | | |under this hill, which is highest | | |point of N. ridge, and descends | | |gradually to | | | _Wallak_ | 2½ | 12½ |Wallak, a scattered village of | | |Kunjaras, one well 40 feet, fair | | |water, 2 rakubas, about 5 acres of | | |cotton, and fair amount of other | | |cultivation. Road proceeds over | | |more level and open country, red | | |gravel soil, and rises to a neck | | |just S. of Kabushi. | | | Jebel Kabushi | 1 | 13½ |A conical grass covered hill. Path | | |descends sharply to water in _Water_ | 1 | 14½ |hollow to right of track, but | | |nearly empty by middle of March. | | | _Karnakala_ | ½ | 15 |Village of Kunjaras. About 12 | | |acres of cotton and considerable | | |amount of other cultivation. Two | | |wells in khor just under village, | | |water at 6 feet good and | | |plentiful. Rakuba by wells under | | |ardeib tree. The Sheikh Ali Seru | | |said he was a soldier with Gordon | | |Pasha. | | | | | |Track passes through village, | | |turning S. just outside for a | | |short distance. | | | | | |Going not too good, stony, and as | | |path is only used by donkeys, is | | |narrow for camels, who stumble a | | |good deal. | | | Khor Abu Jamfa| 3 | 18 |Open khor; small amount of water | | |in holes. | | | _Kuka_ | 2 | 20 |Village of Kunjaras. Water comes | | |out of rock at bottom of deep | | |rocky khor, which is overhung by | | |large tebeldi tree of about 10 | | |feet diameter. Road winds S. and | | |then W. again, passing villages of | | |Basunda and Yunis at about ½ mile | | |interval. These draw their water | | |from a deep rocky khor half way | | |between Kuka and Basunda. Good | | |rakubas at all of them. | | | _Babikr_ | 6 | 26 |Going improves as this village is | | |reached. Road still winds through | | |forest country. Very little water | | |left in well. Good rakuba. Sheikh | | |describes this as half-way between | | |Rahad and Gallabat. Track winds to | | |S.W. and going becomes very bad | | |again. Cotton soil, which gives | | |under camels as they go along. | | |Track very indistinct in places. | | | Domajura | 9 | 35 |Road winds between 2 stony low | | |hills of this name. On W. side a | | |well dug in the rock said to have | | |been made by Sheik Saleh Bey, | | |formerly of Gallabat. No water | | |now, and a bad smell emanates from | | |it. | | | Hag Bakhit | 3 | 38 |Track passes over low rocky column | | |of this name. One mile N.W. is | | |ruined Deim of brother of Saleh | | |Bey. It lies on top of hill named | | |Zurga. | | | _Meshra Sirri_| 9 | 47 |Track gradually descends to River or Abid (?) | | |Rahad passing a few stony | | |hillocks. Bad going, over cotton | | |soil all the way. Meshra 2 miles | | |N. of steep rocky hill Jebel | | |Surur. | | | | | |Good camping ground in zeriba. A | | |certain number of nomad | | |inhabitants who come down to fish | | |appear to make this a halting | | |place. Water clear, good, and pool | | |deep. Swarms with fish and | | |crocodile, and from tracks appear | | |to be favourite watering place of | | |much game, including elephant and | | |lion. | | | | | |From Babikr there cannot be said | | |to be any defined track. The way | | |is shown by blazed trees and | | |stumps of trees cut down by | | |clearing party. The whole way | | |practically is bad going, both for | | |camels and donkeys, owing to | | |rotten black cotton soil. Camels | | |go at a slow walk only. From Kuka | | |onwards the route is waterless, | | |but there are plenty of likely | | |looking places where water might | | |be found if wells were dug. | | | | | |From Meshra Sirri, route runs | | |roughly N.W. along right bank of | | |Rahad, it is marked by blazed | | |trees here and there. At times | | |going very bad over cotton soil. | | |Camels get along with difficulty | | |at slow walk. Sometimes going is | | |good, but only for short time. | | | _Meshra | 11¾ | 58¾ |Plenty of water in pool; good Kakamut_ | | |shade; zeriba; banks very steep | | |down to water and difficult for | | |camels. | | | _Meshra Myat | 1½ | 60¼ |Track rises on to a broad low bank Bringi_ | | |by riverside, which is evidently | | |an island when river is in flood. | | | _Meshra Ghaba | 2¼ | 62½ |Zeriba, water ¼ mile up stream, Susa_ | | |small amount, and very green. | | | _Bendego_ | 2¾ | 65¼ |Zeriba and meshra. Banks very | | |steep down to water. Quarter mile | | |further on the track passes group | | |of 11 very large tebeldi trees, | | |one of which has diameter 21 feet. | | | _Meshra | 6½ | 71¾ |Zeriba by large tebeldi tree, tebeldi_ | | |water ¼ mile up stream, very steep | | |bank and not much shade. | | | _Meshra | 3 | 74¾ |Sangafut, an island in stream when Sangafut_ | | |river is in flood. Pool ¼ mile up | | |stream. Banks steep down to pool. | | |Good shade just above. Meshra not | | |at all apparent from road. Zeriba | | |can be seen from road, is built on | | |the bank and is half way between | | |water and island of Sangafut. | | |Water plentiful. | | | | | |Between this and Ghaba Susa track | | |passes across several shallow | | |khors but no water in them. | | | _Meshra | 7½ | 82¼ |Half a mile from meshra, and Deresa_ | | |zeriba track strikes river at spot | | |where broad belt of long grass | | |intervenes between it and river | | |bed. Follows curve of river round | | |on high ground to zeriba, which is | | |at a spot on the curve where the | | |river is running from N.E. to S.W. | | |Very steep path down to water | | |immediately to W. end of zeriba, | | |which was impossible for camels, | | |but one just possible ¼ mile E. of | | |zeriba. Water plentiful in pool | | |and good. From here on trees | | |decrease in size and become less | | |dense. Guide said this was | | |formerly a large village and a | | |battalion was stationed here, | | |which was cut up by Abyssinians 35 | | |or 40 years ago. The place was | | |destroyed by Dervishes. The town | | |was ½ mile N.W. of meshra and | | |zeriba. Several lions heard here. | | | _Wad Betul_ | 2½ | 84¾ |Meshra, no zeriba, road | | |immediately above stream, and | | |country much more open here. From | | |here blazing of trees is | | |discontinued, and direction has to | | |be kept (1902) by compass and | | |stream. Rate of progress cannot be | | |reckoned at more than 2 miles per | | |hour. | | | _Khor Semsem_ | 7½ | 92¼ |Broad shelving grass-grown khor | | |running in direction from N.E. to | | |S.W. runs into river here. Bad | | |meshra just N.W. of it, little | | |shade, and very steep banks. Water | | |green. 1½ miles from Semsem the | | |river bed widens and becomes | | |muddy—until now it has always been | | |sandy—very good grass grows on the | | |part from which water has receded. | | | Island (name | 3 | 95¼ |River doubles back and runs nearly unknown) | | |S.E. and flows round an island. | | |Track follows several broad and | | |very grassy and bushy khors which | | |caused wide détours. | | | | 2¼ | 97½ |Good spot for camp immediately | | |above a large pool. Banks steep | | |and thickly wooded, though | | |immediate site of camp clear. | | | | | |The island seems to come to an end | | |about ¼ mile further down stream. | | |From here the track becomes plain | | |again, the tree felling and | | |blazing is regular and | | |systematical, and easily followed. | | |Going improves and camels can | | |occasionally trot. Country becomes | | |more open and track crosses | | |several shallow khors. | | | _Meshra | 6 | 103½ |Track strikes river at a broad re- Abrakuba_ | | |entrant bend. Plentiful supply of | | |water and gently shelving banks | | |easy for any animals to water. | | |Good camping and grazing ground by | | |the river. | | | _Shammam_ | — | — |A small tukl village of Dinka | | |colonists. Sheikh Dik Malek. Is | | |situated to left of track on | | |rising ground among trees above | | |river. Dura cultivation shows its | | |presence at some distance from the | | |track, from which it is itself | | |invisible. Poor supplies; a little | | |dura was obtained after some | | |difficulty. Water good and | | |plentiful. | | | | | |From here track bends inland from | | |river crossing the shallow khors | | |of Wad Bikr and Malwia. The track | | |is indistinct and hard to follow | | |owing to clearing having been done | | |in most erratic fashion. Camels | | |have to proceed at a walk. After | | |7½ miles track, strikes the river | | |again, which is dry here, and is | | |running round a large island, | | |Geziret Fatna. Two miles further | | |on comes | | | _Meshra | 9½ | 119 |A large shallow pool rapidly Geziret Fatna_| | |drying up. Track runs along this | | |pool for about 1 mile over rough | | |going where the two branches of | | |the river round Geziret Fatna re- | | |unite and track strikes N. and | | |then trends round to river again, | | |striking it at Wad El Kashedi. | | | _Wad El | 2½ | 121½ |A good pool, but banks steep, Kashedi_ | | |looks as if an old canal formerly | | |ran into river from W. Jebel | | |Mogadad appears in distance in E. | | |direction. Going still bad. Cotton | | |soil, but fewer trees. | | | | | |Track follows close to river bank, | | |water occasionally in pools, but | | |banks steep. Two miles from Hawata | | |track improves and enters belt of | | |trees through which it is well | | |cleared. Some cultivation about in | | |cleared patches. | | | Hawata | 7½ | 129 |Fair-sized tukl village of | | |Hamadas. Fair supplies and good | | |pool of water immediately beside | | |village. Track from here improves | | |greatly. It is well cleared and | | |camels can trot. The journey from | | |Gallabat to Hawata cut the feet of | | |4 out of 5 camels so badly that | | |they were unable to proceed | | |further. Between Meshra Sirri and | | |Hawata game very plentiful. | | |Numerous tracks of elephants; | | |lions were heard each night. | | |Giraffe seen twice. Ariel | | |frequently seen in enormous herds | | |of over 100. North of Hawata no | | |more lions or elephants, and ariel | | |became scarce. I saw natives | | |coursing gazelle, and they say | | |they hunt a good deal. | | | _Girbu_ | 2 | 131 |From Hawata, track winds through | | |trees and long grass to small tukl | | |village on river bank with some | | |scattered tukls further on. | | |Country opens out into large grass | | |plains dotted with bushes and | | |clumps of trees. | | | _Nuwar_ | 8 | 139 |A small tukl village to left of | | |track some way back from river. | | |Jebel Beila at right angles to | | |track, N.E. | | | _Wadi Nagami_ | 3 | 142 |A new tukl village of Hamadas | | |rapidly springing up. Over 30 | | |tukls already built. People said | | |to be returning from khors and | | |jebels round. A few sheep, no | | |camels. | | | _Mafasa_ | 1 | 143 |Another rapidly increasing village | | |of Hamadas. Signs of old tukls | | |shown. There are now over 30 new | | |ones.[18] Sheep and oxen, but no | | |camels. About ¼ mile from river. A | | |little dura cultivated. From here, | | |track passes through grass plains | | |and trees for 3 miles, and then | | |gets into thick bush country for | | |another 3 miles, rising slowly the | | |whole time till it suddenly | | |emerges on top of cleared, broken, _Abraham_ | 6 | 149 |and hillocky ground, from which it | | |descends sharply into and crosses | | |the river bed which is dry here. | | |After crossing the river track | | |turns S.W. following round S. edge | | |of a dry shallow branch of the | | |river, which is lined thickly on | | |either bank by good-sized trees | | |through which path winds and | | |gradually works round to N.E. | | |direction. | | | _Muttu_ | 5 | 154 |Meshra and various shifting tukl | | |villages, some inhabited, some | | |deserted. People appear to come | | |here to build tukls before the | | |rains begin, sow and reap dura on | | |open spaces between the trees, and | | |then move on. From here track is | | |well defined though crossed by | | |numerous other tracks. Trees, | | |except on immediate river bank, | | |cease. | | | _Karakeila_ | ¾ | 154¾ |Meshra, track to it branches off | | |to right. | | | _Abbas_ | 4½ | 159¼ |Meshra, invisible from the path. | | |Good pool and shade; from this, | | |track resumes N.W. direction. | | | _Bir el Gamal_| 16¾ | 176 |Road forks here into an eye shape. | | |Good meshra and distinct road down | | |to it. It is under high trees | | |which show on N. side of track on | | |river bank about ¼ mile off. | | | Ghabat | 4½ | 180½ |Deserted tukl village of 40 huts. | | |Jebel Arang is sighted bearing | | |N.E. | | | | 5 | 185½ |A track turns off N.E. to Jebel | | |Arang, and one bears to left | | |running direct to Hafar. Main | | |track leads on to Meshra Kheiari. | | | _Meshra | 6½ | 192 |A good meshra with fair shade. Kheiari_ | | |Meshra El Gelma at 191½ mile found | | |dry. Large numbers of camels about | | |here grazing. From here, track to | | |Wad Medani leaves Rahad and runs | | |nearly due W. on leaving the | | |river, trees and shrubs soon cease | | |and cotton soil plain is crossed | | |to Kheiari a deserted village of | | |about 40 tukls; a deep well of | | |about 6 feet diameter has been | | |dug, but is now dry. Track | | |continues W. over plain, ground | | |rising slightly to Hafar. | | | _Hafeira_ | 4½ | 196½ |Large tukl village over 100 tukls | | |all well built. Inhabited by | | |different tribes: Jaalin (few) | | |Hawazma, Rufaa. One well supplies | | |whole village, 72 feet deep and | | |about 6 feet wide, very good water | | |in it. Said never to run dry. Few | | |cattle and sheep and other | | |supplies. Like all other places | | |between this and Gedaref it was | | |laid waste by Ahmed Fedil on his | | |march to join the Khalifa. | | | | | |From Hafar track runs W. over | | |cotton soil, is clearly marked. | | |Clumps of trees and bushes in | | |places. | | | Shebaga | 14 | 210½ |Small tukl village, few | | |inhabitants. | | | _Alarebab_ | 9 | 219½ |Track strikes Blue Nile about 1 | | |mile N. of Alarebab, and opposite Wad Medani | ½ | 220 |Wad Medani. Ferry across to left | | |bank. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 30.—ITINERARY OF BLUE NILE—KHARTOUM TO FAZOGLI. BY CAPTAIN H. F. S. AMERY, MARCH, 1903. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Khartoum | — | — |Up to Soba, cultivation good on | | |both banks, though confined to a | | |narrow strip—Sakias numerous. | | | Buri | 3 | 3 |L. | | | Kuku | 1½ | 4½ |R. | | | El Gereif | 2 | 6½ |Island here at low Nile. | | | Karkoj | 1¼ | 7¾ |R. | | | Um Dom Island | 2 | 9¾ |½ mile above the island are the | | |hillas of Um Dom R. and El Hagirat | | |L. | | | Soba | 4 | 13¾ |On the R. are the ruins of the | | |capital of the once flourishing | | |kingdom of Alwa; on the L. a small | | |village. Soba is the name of the | | |district on both sides of the | | |river, and continues to Soba El | | |Taib a village 3 miles further S. | | |on the R. bank. | | | Butri | 4 | 17¾ |Two villages of this name L. the | | |other is 1 mile further N. From | | |here on for many miles the | | |character of the country does not | | |change. The eastern bank is | | |covered with thick, low thorn | | |jungle, while the western bank is | | |open and sandy, very little scrub | | |and half grass. There are patches | | |of cultivation round the villages, | | |and when the water falls, a narrow | | |strip by the foreshore of the | | |river is cultivated with heavy | | |crops of dura, lubia, sesame, | | |melons, and vegetables. Some of | | |the islands also are under | | |cultivation. | | | Eilafun | 3 | 20¾ |Wood station and village L., a | | |track leads from here to Geili | | |about 75 miles. About ¼ mile | | |inland on the L. is the Government | | |rest house of Sabil. | | | Dueikhla | 1½ | 22¼ |R. | | | Bageir | ¼ | 22½ |L. | | | Bageir Sharg | 2½ | 25 |R. | | | Bageir | 1 | 26 |L. Another small village of the | | |same name. | | | El Shereig | 2 | 28 |R. | | | El Gedid | 1½ | 29½ |L. First of three villages of same | | |name extending for 1½ miles S. | | |Cultivation round the villages. | | | Awag El Darb | 3¼ | 32¾ |L. Between here and Masadia, a | | |short distance inland on R. bank | | |is the village of Sheikh El Obeid. | | | Masadia | 2½ | 35¼ |L. | | | El Nuba | 2½ | 37¾ |L. Largish village ½ mile from | | |river. | | | Mahas Island, | ¾ | 38½ | N. end | | | | | | Mahas, S. end | 2¼ | 40¾ | | | | Maid | 1 | 41¾ |Large village L. with Rest house | | |on river bank and large mosque. | | | Alti | 1½ | 43¾ |L. | | | El Nur | 1 | 44¼ |L. | | | Um Magad | 3¾ | 48 |L. | | | El Tikena | 2 | 50 | | | | Bishagra | 1½ | 51½ |Villages L. and R. The one on L. Island | | |large with three mosques. Former | | |Dervish depôt and powder factory. | | | Fogur | 1 | 52½ |L. Small village. | | | Eidag | 1¼ | 53¾ |R. | | | Takela | ¾ | 54½ |L. | | | Sayal | ½ | 55 |R. | | | Wad El Turabi | 3 | 58 |L. | | | Wad Esheib | 1½ | 59½ |R. | | | Belula | ¾ | 60¼ |L. Kasembar | | | | | | Kalkol | 1¾ | 64½ |L. Opposite S. end of island of | | |same name. | | | _Kamlin_ | 2½ | 64½ |L. Head quarters of the Blue Nile | | |Province, a large and growing | | |village with market place, post | | |and telegraph offices, and a good | | |rest house in a grove of date | | |palms at N. end of village. | | |Inhabitants Jaalin and Danagla. | | |More cultivation from here S. | | |Country also much more wooded. | | |Rest house. | | | Metemma | 1½ | 66 |R. 1 mile inland. The road on the | | |R. bank to Rufaa goes inland _viâ_ | | |the villages of Metemma, Branko | | |and Deim. | | | Hamed El Nil | 5½ | 71½ | | | | Branko | ½ | 72 |Some way inland R. | | | Um Degersi | ½ | 72½ |L. Two villages close together. | | | Abd El Magdi | 1 | 73½ |L. | | | Helalia | 2 | 75½ |R. Large village. | | | Abu El Ashr | 1½ | 77 |L. Helawin district commences | | |here. | | | Bueida Island | 3½ | 100½ | | | | Hegeir | 3 | 103½ |R. | | | Wad Abu Furur | 3½ | 107 |L. Large village with Government | | |Rest house. R. bank wooded. | | | _Hassa Hisa_ | 4¾ | 111¾ |L. Commonly called Hassai, largish | | |village, the direction of the | | |river after this is N.E. to Rufaa. | | |Hassai and Rufaa being at the | | |points of the curves of the S. | | |known as the Rufaa bend. Rest | | |house. | | | Rufa’a | 5 | 116¾ |R. Wood station. Former grain | | |stores. Ali Wad Abu Sin, and Wakil | | |el Amin Abu Sin, SS. Alla Hemrab | | |L. Rufa’a is said to be the second | | |largest town on the Blue Nile. It | | |stands some little way back from | | |the river, and is a fairly | | |populous place. Its inhabitants | | |are a branch of the Shukria tribe | | |of Arabs, and call themselves | | |Rufaa-Shukria. Good crops are | | |raised on the foreshore and | | |islands in the vicinity, and | | |melons are cultivated, upon an | | |extensive scale on the flats up- | | |stream of the town. The river here | | |is very wide and shallow, and | | |navigation in summer is extremely | | |difficult. | | | Amara | 2 | 118¾ | | | | Abid | 1 | 119¾ |L. | | | Ereibab | 4 | 122¼ |R. About 1½ miles inland. | | | Wad Belal | 4½ | 126¾ |L. | | | Fadassi | 4 | 130¾ |L. Large village and Rest house. | | |Good garden on river bank | | |belonging to Omda of village. | | | Fadassi Amrab | 2 | 132¾ |L. | | | Tayiba | 3 | 135¾ |L. | | | Hamid El Nil | 1½ | 137¼ |R. | | | Abu Haraz | 1½ | 138¾ |Starting place of caravan road to | | |Gedaref. | | | Abu Ushur | ¾ | 139½ |R. Mouth of River Rahad. Water | | |differs little from that of Blue | | |Nile; rather more vegetable | | |organic matter. Jungle begins both | | |banks. This river, which rises in | | |the N.W. slopes of the Abyssinian | | |mountains, brings down a large | | |volume of water when in flood. It | | |enters the Nile at an angle of | | |70°, and its bed in February was 3 | | |feet higher than the water surface | | |of the Blue Nile at that time. The | | |Rahad, with the exception of a few | | |pools, is dry for many months of | | |the year. Its banks at the | | |junction are steep and high, quite | | |39 feet over the bed, which has a | | |width of 71 yards. The flood-marks | | |show that the rise of the Rahad is | | |from 15 to 19 feet in height. The | | |Blue Nile at this junction forms | | |an “S” curve, taking a sharp bend | | |to the W., and again another to | | |the E. Its width, is measured, 595 | | |yards. The banks of the Rahad | | |River are covered with thick and | | |dense jungle, as are both banks of | | |the Blue Nile in this reach. | | |Shortly before Wad Medani is | | |reached, the W. bank becomes open | | |again, but the forest on the E. | | |bank is continuous. | | | Wad Medani | 5 | 144½ |L. Large and flourishing town, | | |largest in Sudan after Omdurman. | | |Head quarters of Sennar Province. | | |Post and telegraph offices. A few | | |European shops and good market. | | |Civil population about 30,000. | | |Soil limestone with sand and | | |gravel—healthy; Mosque with high | | |tower. Country S. of Wad Medani | | |becomes thick jungle especially on | | |E. bank. | | | | | |From Wad Medani the shortest road | | |to Sennar leaves the river and | | |goes inland by Sariba, Wad Shenan, | | |&c., meeting the river again at | | |Danagila. | | | Goz El Fil | 5 | 149½ |On island. | | | Ereibab | 1 | 150½ | | | | Kurdugeili | 5 | 155½ | | | | Ganneb | 6½ | 162 |L. About 1¼ miles from R. bank is | | |Shabarga, the nearest point to R. | | |Rahad at H. Sherif Yakub; about 7 | | |miles across. | | | Bagadi | 2 | 164 |L. Large village. | | | Abd El Karim | 6½ | 170½ |R. | | | _H. Sherif | 1¼ | 171¾ |L. Rest house. Desis Yusef_ | | | | | | Doliba | 1¾ | 173½ |L. | | | El Beriab | 4½ | 178 |L. Large village on river bank in | | |open ground. Supplies plentiful. | | | Mouth of River| 2 | 180 |Larger and more important river Dinder | | |than Rahad. Breadth at mouth 120 | | |yards (_see_ page 114, Vol. I). | | | Hamed | 6 | 186 |L. Three miles inland is the large | | |village of Shukaba. | | | Abu Sogra | 6¾ | 192¾ |L. | | | _Danagila_ | 5½ | 198¼ |L. Distant from Wad Medani by | | |direct road 31½ miles. Rest house. | | | Santobar | 2 | 200¼ |L. | | | Banat | 2 | 202¼ |L. | | | Barsi El Fadl | 2¼ | 204½ |R. | | | Wad El Dai | 3 | 207½ |L. | | | Wad El Haddad | ½ | 208 |L. | | | _Wad El Abbas_| 6½ | 214½ |R. Rest house. | | | _Meshra El | 5 | 219½ |L. Rest house. Hagirat_ | | | | | | Habbania | 1 | 220½ |L. | | | Shambata | 5 | 225½ |R. | | | Deim El | 5½ | 231 |L. Mashaikh | | | | | | Sharif | 1½ | 232½ |R. | | | Sennar | 2½ | 235 |L. Now in ruins and deserted, old | | |mosque with high tower still | | |standing. _Vide_ Vol. I. Rest | | |house at Kabush. | | | Abu Geili | — | — | | | | Kassab El Amin| 9 | 244 |R. Opposite large island. | | | _Shekh Talha_ | 6½ | 250½ |R. Rest house. | | | Ereidiba | 2 | 252½ |R. | | | Ereidiba | 2½ | 255 |L. About 2 miles inland—large | | |village. | | | _Abdin_ | 4 | 259 |L. Rest house. | | | Abu Shoka | 3 | 262 | | | | Dakhla Shellal| 7 | 269 |L. | | | Rammash | 8 | 277 |L. | | | Mena Yusef | 6 | 283 |R. | | | Wad El Ghazali| 2 | 285 |L. | | | _Senga_ | 2 | 287 |L. Headquarters of a District and | | |Detachment of Regular Troops here. | | |Rest house. | | | Mena | 1 | 288 |R. People: Fungs and Hawazma; the | | |sheikh Adlan is the descendant of | | |the Fung sultans of Sennar. From | | |here a direct road goes to Lueisa | | |on the R. Dinder, distance about | | |16 miles. | | | El Gazair | 6½ | 294½ |R. | | | Brodras | 7½ | 302 |R. | | | _Karkoj_ | 5 | 307 |R. Rest house. A large straggling | | |village, surrounded by bush and | | |tall grass. It is close to the | | |river, the banks of which are | | |steep. Inhabitants very poor and | | |of various tribes:—Kongeri, | | |Ashraf, Moghrabi, Kamatir, Jaalin | | |and Agalin. Village on high | | |ground, with small khors at | | |intervals running into the river. | | |Soil, limestone mixed with sand | | |and alluvium—subsoil 9 to 10 feet | | |from surface. Three small springs | | |of clear water appear at south end | | |of village, and reach the surface | | |of the steep bank 9 feet from the | | |top. On the L. bank in Nov. there | | |is a large stagnant lagoon, which | | |probably increases the | | |unhealthiness of the site. | | | | | |One hundred and ten hours by steam | | |from Khartoum. | | | | | |Karkoj used to be an important | | |trading centre in the old days for | | |gum arabic, tamarinds, cattle, | | |cotton, coffee (from Abyssinia), | | |vegetables, &c. This used to be | | |the last place where one could lay | | |in stores for further travel. | | | | | |The river here is at high Nile 470 | | |yards broad, average depth 23 | | |feet, current 5 miles per hour; at | | |low Nile the figures are 330 | | |yards, 8 feet, and 1¼ miles | | |respectively. | | | | | |Surroundings bare. Woods, chiefly | | |acacia, &c., begin at some | | |distance off. | | | | | |(Marno took 25 days in a nugger | | |from Khartoum to this point, in | | |February.) | | | | | |The Upper Sennar negro race, the | | |Hameg, now begin to populate both | | |banks; a dirty, indolent race. | | | | | |From Karkoj upwards both banks are | | |highly cultivated and fertile, but | | |only on the narrow strip which is | | |liable to inundation at flood | | |time. Camels become gradually | | |replaced by donkeys and oxen. Too | | |damp for horses; many mosquitos | | |and poisonous flies (_serút_). | | |Much rough cloth woven. | | | | | |Track on R. bank lies through | | |cultivation and occasional thick | | |woods. | | | _Seiru_ | 3 | 310 |L. Rest house. | | | Zumorka | 6 | 316 |R. | | | Lanni | 1 | 317 |L. | | | _Abu Tiga_ | 10½ | 327½ |R. On main track from Karkoj to | | |Roseires. Rest house. | | | Barankwa | ½ | 328 |L. Swarms of birds in autumn. | | |Water channel 700 yards. | | | _Abu Naama_ | 1½ | 329½ |L. Rather less vegetation; soil | | |contains much iron peroxide. | | |Reported immune from fever. Rest | | |house. | | | Rumeila | 3 | 332½ |L. | | | Tangaru | 1½ | 334 |L. El Lakandi R. | | | _Regeiba_ | 6 | 340 |L. Rest house. | | | _Bunzoga_ | 8½ | 348½ |R. Boat building yard (?). Two | | |miles before this the Khor El | | |Malwai comes on L., and a track | | |goes from there to J. Gule. Rest | | |house. | | | H. Sherif | 24 | 372½ |R. Well-known point on river. Ahmed | | |Cultivation considerable. | | | _Bados_ | 11 | 383½ |R. Rest house. | | | _El Gereif_ | 7 | 390½ |R. Village up a back-water. Broad | | |conspicuous belt of dom palms | | |begins, and continues along ridge | | |to Roseires. Rest house. | | | El Karori | 2½ | 393 |R. On L. is mouth of Khor Dunia. | | | Abu Ramad | 9 | 402 |L. | | | _Roseires_[19]| 3 | 405 |R. End of telegraph. Headquarters | | |of a District and residence of | | |British Inspector; small garrison, | | |post and telegraph offices. Old | | |Roseires lies 3 miles further | | |north. Hilly ground, thick dom | | |palms along banks. Mimosa woods to | | |the E. Plenty of game. | | |Obstructions in the river begin | | |some miles before here, and this | | |is the limit of navigation for | | |steamers or boats. About 2 miles | | |south begin the Roseires | | |cataracts. Malarial fever prevails | | |during October and November. The | | |soil here is composed of alluvium | | |overlying granite, in which the | | |quartz and mica are small-grained, | | |evenly distributed throughout, | | |with a minimum of felspar. Less | | |frequently the blocks are of large | | |grained quartz, combined with | | |felspar. The granite has been | | |extensively disintegrated. | | | _Abu Zoghali_ | 8 | 413 |R. Mouth of khor of same name. | | |Rest house. | | | _El Dakhla_ | 11 | 424 |R. Best camping ground is where | | |hospital was established after | | |fight with Ahmed Fedil, 25th | | |December, 1898. The village is | | |over a mile from the river inland. | | |Village Iwan marked on map is | | |deserted. Latter part of road is | | |thick jungle, and several deep | | |khors intersect the path. Rest | | |house. | | | _Abu Gemai_ | 12½ | 436½ |L. Abu Gemai, village on W. bank, | | |about 20 people. Rest house. | | |Sheikh el Imam Ramadan. Open road | | |the greater part of the way, but | | |there are several deep khors | | |bounded by thick jungle. In 11th | | |mile you come to watering place, | | |Ardeiba. | | | Ardeiba | 11 | 447½ |R. Watering place. | | | _Abu Sheneina_| 3½ | 451 |L. Abu Sheneina, a village on W. | | |bank, about 200 people; Sheikh Abd | | |el Wahid Abu Shenein. Rest house. | | | Famaka | 9 | 460 |R. The latter part of road is very | | |rough indeed, going over shoulder | | |of J. Fazogli; very steep and | | |rocky about 2 to 3 miles. | | | Fazogli | 1 | 461 |L. Easy path. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- [Footnote 10: No water here, January, 1901.] [Footnote 11: There is now (1904) a colony of Baggara Arabs who were sent to this district after the fall of Omdurman (1893).] [Footnote 12: This road has recently been straightened and improved.] [Footnote 13: Not the same as Durraba on the Dinder.] [Footnote 14: This report is on the old route. The new route at times follows the old one and at times the telegraph line, but the watering places are the same on both routes.] [Footnote 15: On the 28th March, 1902, there were only a few inches of water in the well, and it took an hour to water 13 camels, using 2 girbas.—(Bonham-Carter).] [Footnote 16: Uninhabited in March, 1902 (Bonham-Carter).] [Footnote 17: Some of the names in this report will probably be unknown to many guides.] [Footnote 18: Mafasa has rapidly developed, and now (1904) is about to be made the Head-Quarters of a District.] [Footnote 19: Rest houses on left bank between Regeiba and Roseires are at M. Gurra, Moya Ahmar, Abkok, and El Disa; on right bank, between El Gereif and Roseires, at Magangani.] CHAPTER V. (CENTRAL SUDAN.) * * * * * 31.—KHARTOUM TO WAD MEDANI, SENNAR, SENGA, AND KARKOJ, UP LEFT BANK OF BLUE NILE. COMPILED FROM REPORTS BY MAJOR DE ROUGEMONT AND CAPTAIN H. F. S. AMERY. _Corrected up to_ 1904. Between Khartoum and Wad Medani there are rest houses at the following places: Sabil, Masid, Kamlin, Hassa Hisa and Mesellemia; these places are on an average about 18 miles apart. The fee per night payable to the Sheikh in charge is 5 P.T., in return for which an angarib, zeer and water are provided. Eggs, milk, fowls, &c., are generally procurable, but these are of course not included in the 5 P.T. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Khartoum | — | — |The road passes over an open plain (Palace) | | |after leaving the old line of | | |fortifications (gate 1 mile from | | |palace), passing Buri District, | | |comprising 3 villages, to the | | |left; then through Gereif | | |district; 7 villages, population | | |about 1,000; opposite third | | |village the road is ½ mile from | | |river; road runs over flat open | | |plain; cultivation—dura, cotton, | | |dukhn, and vegetables in small | | |quantities round each village. A | | |track also leads straight to the | | |Sabil Rest house, by following Um Dom Island | — | — |which about 1 mile is saved. | | | _Meshra El | 7½ | 7½ |Not inhabited. Hagar or | | | Hageirat_ | | | | | | | | |Road passes in straight line from | | |Khartoum to Meshra El Hagar or | | |Hageirat; at this point it meets | | |the river; excellent watering | | |place only, no village. The | | |village of Um Dom (R.) is exactly | | |opposite Meshra El Hagar. | | | _Soba_ | 4 | 11½ |A small village of tukls on the R. | | |bank. Fourteen miles from Khartoum | | |there is good watering place, no | | |grazing. | | | _El Sabil_ | 6 | 17½ |Rest house. No village. | | | _El Bageir_ | 1½ | 19 |On river bank, 1½ miles from road, | | |population 200. Through Sabil Kasm | | |El Sid District; signs of ruined | | |village on side of road, from | | |which Eilafun can be seen, bearing | | |55°. | | | _Goz Shereig_ | — | — |On R. bank. | | | _Gedid_ | 7 | 26 |Population 1,000; cultivation | | |round villages (3). Track passes | | |over barren treeless plain to | | | _Masudia_ | 5½ | 31½ |Village on River, population 500; | | |cultivation between village and | | |river. | | | _Nuba_ | 2¼ | 33¾ |A large village, mud houses, | | |population 1,000; good | | |cultivation. Encamped ½ mile south | | |of Nuba. | | | _El Masid_ | 5 | 38¾ |Rest house. Road still through | | |open plain. No cultivation between | | |Nuba and Masid, nor at latter. | | |Inhabitants cultivate opposite | | |bank. Large village with mosque. | | | _Alti_ | 1 | 39¾ |A straggling village ¾ mile long, | | |population 1,500; bank of river | | |cultivated. | | | _Um Magad_ | 3 | 42¾ |Village ½ mile long, population | | |300. | | | _El Tikeina_ | 1¾ | 44½ |Population 200. Encamped in open | | |plain ½ mile south of village; | | |good watering place; no grazing. | | | _Bishagra El | 2 | 46½ |Large village, 3 mosques. Bishagra Gharbi_ | | |El Sharki on opposite bank. | | | _Fadl El | 1 | 47½ |A small village on river bank, Fogur_ | | |population 150. | | | _El Takela_ | 2¼ | 49¾ |Straggling village, population | | |800, ½ mile from road on bank of | | |river. Traces of rain cultivation. | | |Another village on right of road, | | |1 mile further south, also called | | |El Takela. | | | _Wad El | 2¾ | 52½ |A large village, with large Turabi_ | | |mosque, ½ mile from river. There | | |is a small village on river bank | | |under trees (mimosa). Rain- | | |cultivated dura commences on right | | |of road. Plenty of cultivation on | | |river bank. | | | _Kasembar_ | 2½ | 55 |A small village of Kamlin | | |district, ¼ mile from road, | | |population 200. The road now | | |enters the Kamlin district, which | | |stretches as far as Abu El Ashr. | | | _El Heleila_ | 1 | 56 |A small village of Kamlin district | | |1¼ mile left of road, population | | |200. | | | _Kalkol_ | — | — |Same as El Heleila. A thick grove | | |of Dom palms close to village. | | | _Kamlin_ | 2½ | 58½ |A large village, population 1,500, | | |with thin grove of date palms on | | |north side with rest house. Market | | |place, dura obtainable. There are | | |government farms and old ruined | | |indigo factory. A good camping | | |ground on south side of village. | | |The road to Kamlin is quite | | |suitable for wheel traffic. The | | |inhabitants of Kamlin seem | | |prosperous. The Gezira seems well | | |supplied with grass. The road now | | |passes through more cultivation; | | |rain-cultivation dura on both | | |sides of road. Head Quarters of | | |Blue Nile Province (P.T.O.). | | | _Um Degersi_ | 6½ | 65 |Two small villages, population | | |700, 1 mile east of road; nearly | | |all straw tukls. Near here another | | |small village on bank Abd El | | |Magdi, population 200; river | | |cultivation. One mile south on | | |right bank of river is the large | | |village of Helalia. | | | _Abu El Ashr_ | 3 | 68½ |A large village on river bank. | | |Here commences Halawin district | | |(includes Abu El Ashr), population | | |600; mud houses. Road passes | | |through open woody country. | | | _El Talbab_ | 3¼ | 71¾ |Two miles from river, population | | |1,000. Mud houses. The road | | |continues through the Halawin | | |district, comprising some 64 | | |villages inland. Cultivation by | | |rain. | | | _Um Haboba_ | 3¼ | 75 |Commonly called by the natives the | | |Geneinat El Halawin; excellent | | |camping ground, garden, excellent | | |grazing, date palms, lemon trees | | |in garden. The road now passes | | |through somewhat thick mimosa | | |jungle to plain covered with thorn | | |scrub. | | | _Wad Abu | 3 | 78 |Rest house. A large village, ¼ Ferugha_ | | |mile from road on left, population (Furur?) | | |800. A few dom palms and grazing | | |(indifferent) along bank. Opposite | | |bank well wooded, inhabitants | | |depend on rain cultivation. | | | _Debeba_ | 2 | 80 |A long straggling village, 1 | | |mosque, a few sunt trees. An | | |island called Debeba in front of | | |village. Bearing from north end of | | |village to Rufaa 110°, about 3 | | |miles off on right bank. | | | Wad El Ramil | ½ | 80½ |A small village east of road. | | |Bearing to Rufaa 90°. Road passes | | |through open plain. | | | _Hassa Hisa_ | 2 | 82½ |Two large sunt trees, one at north or _Hassai_ | | |end, one at south end. Fair size | | |village at the apex of the bend of | | |the river, mostly tukls. One and a | | |quarter miles further on are two | | |very large acacia trees; road | | |open. The river here makes a sharp | | |south bend, Rufaa being about 3 | | |miles north-east from here on R.B. | | |There is a telegraph office at | | |Rufaa. | | | | | |In the bend opposite Rufaa are | | |several villages, chief being El | | |Amara, which is the Head Quarters | | |of the Mamur of Mesellemia | | |District. | | | _Wad El Fadui_| 5 | 87½ |Road leaves El Amara to the left | | |and strikes the river again near | | |Wad El Fadui. | | | _El Akura_ | 4 | 911 |Conspicuous palms near river’s | | |edge. Rain cultivation all along | | |road and inland. | | | _Grigrib_ | 3 | 94½ |Small Halawin village. Old | | |Mesellemia now mostly in ruins, | | |lies about 4 miles south-west | | |inland from here. | | | _Fadasi_ | 1¾ | 96¼ |Large village. Inhabitants chiefly | | |Rekabia Halimab. Omda is Sheikh El | | |Nazir Yusef. Rest house. From here | | |track passes through dura | | |cultivation whole way to Wad | | |Medani. | | | _Fadasi El | 1¾ | 98 |Palms and good deal of bush along Amara_ | | |river bank. | | | _Wad | 10 | 108 |Head Quarters of Sennar Province Medani_[20] | | |and 1 battalion of infantry. | | |Second largest town in the Sudan. | | | _Habiballa_ | 3 | 111 |Village on Blue Nile on left of | | |road. Much cultivation hereabouts. | | | Um Bellal | 3 | 114 |Village on right of road. Much | | |jungle along river bank. | | | _Bagadi_ | 9 | 123 |Several villages are passed and a | | |good deal of cultivation to | | |Bagadi, a large village with good | | |watering place. From here the | | |telegraph runs to Meshra El Beriab _Meshra El | 14 | 137 |(10 miles), and thence to Meshra Shukaba_ | | |El Shukaba (6½ miles); however, | | |the most direct road cuts off the | | |bend and strikes the river at | | |Meshra Shukaba. Several villages | | |in this neighbourhood and bush | | |both inland and along river bank. | | |A road from Segadi joins in here. | | | _El Denegila_ | 4 | 141 |Good watering place; several | | |villages. Cultivation. | | | _Meshra El | 9¾ | 150¾ |Several villages and much Dai_ | | |cultivation is passed on the river | | |bank about half way to Meshra El _Meshra El | 7 | 157¾ |Hegerat. Much bush about here, but Hegerat_ | | |main road is good. | | | _Sennar_ | 9 | 166¾ |In ruins, but being re-built. Head | | |Quarters of District and | | |garrisoned by a detachment from | | |Wad Medani. | | | | 2½ | 169¼ |River bends eastwards and road | | |leaves it about 2 miles to the _Meshra | 11 | 180¼ |east and passes through thick bush Eridiba_ | | |to Meshra Eridiba, 1¾ miles before | | |reaching which Sheikh Talha is | | |passed on the right bank. Good | | |camping ground and grazing. | | | | | |Leaving Meshra Eridiba the country | | |is more open, and cultivated with | | |dura and semsem. | | | | | |Abdin is a moderate-sized village | | |on river bank 1½ miles from main | | |road. Good watering place. No | | |grazing near camp, but it is | | |obtainable some 2 miles north. | | | | | |Abu Shoka is passed 2 miles to the | | |east. | | | | | |On river bank. From here there is | | |a road following the river which | | |makes a big bend to the east to | | |Senga. The direct road is _viâ_ _Enediba_ | 13 | 193¼ |Enediba, and passes through much | | |cultivation and crosses many _Senga_ or | 11¾ | 205 |tracks to Senga, an important _Seneij_ | | |village on the river bank. This is | | |now the Head Quarters of the old | | |Karkoj District. It is garrisoned | | |by a detachment from Wad Medani. | | |Many Kenana and Baggara Arabs live | | |here, but the population is much | | |mixed. From Senga roads lead to | | |Lueisa and Abu Kashim on the | | |Dinder. | | | | | |There is a P.T.O. here. | | | | | |A road runs east from here _viâ_ | | |Teigo (wells 16 miles) to J. Dali, | | |and another to J. Moya. From J. | | |Dali there are tracks to the White | | |Nile at Jebelein and Goz Abu Guma. | | | _Senga Um | 6½ | 211½ |From here the track runs due south Benein_ | | |to Senga Um Benein on river bank. | | |Kenana village. | | | _Meshra Dar | 7½ | 219 |Thence to Meshra Dar Agil, whence Agil_ | | |by river bank to Karkoj, a town of | | |not much importance now owing to _Karkoj_ | 5 | 224 |the transfer of Government | | |offices, &c., to Senga. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 32.—KHARTOUM TO GOZ ABU GUMA AND JEBELEIN, UP RIGHT BANK OF WHITE NILE. COMPILED FROM REPORTS BY CAPTAINS T. CONOLLY AND W. A. BOULNOIS (1899). N.B.—The river can be approached practically anywhere as far as Shawal. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- | | |Leaving the most westerly group of | | |palms at Khartoum, the road runs | | |due south for a mile, leaving the | | |village of Goz on the left, and | | |that of Rumeila on the right. | | |Cotton soil. River visible. | | | | | |In next 7 miles road runs (185 | | |Mag.), passing a string of | | |villages on the right (W.) about 1 Assara | — | — |mile away. The name of all these | | |seems to be Assara, till one gets Kalakla | 5 | 6 |to the village of Kalakla, about 6 | | |miles from Khartoum, situated in a | | |large clump of trees. Road runs on | | |open desert sand—very good going; | | |river invisible, about 2 miles | | |off. | | | Sheikh Um | 3 | 9 |At 9 miles from Khartoum road Meriom | | |passes a village with a high tomb | | |in it, called Sheikh Wad Um | | |Meriom. This lies on the river | | |about 1½ miles from the main road. | | | El Kalakeil | 1 | 10 |At 10 miles road passes El | | |Kalakeil on the E. side of it. | | |There are some signs in this last | | |mile of the country having been | | |cultivated. From here the river is | | |about 3 miles off, invisible on | | |account of the bank of sand which | | |forms the desert edge, and some | | |trees on it. | | | | | |After this the road enters some | | |low sand hills, with large clumps | | |of big trees on the river side | | |about ½ mile off. | | | | 3 | 13 |Three miles off this brings one | | |into the first open scrub, which | | |gets closer as it approaches the | | |river—but is not thick, except in | | |a few places on the river bank. | | | Geziret Haraz | 4 | 17 |At 17 miles the head of two | | |islands at high Nile (now no Geziret Um | — | — |longer islands), called Geziret Arda | | |Haraz and Geziret Um Arda. These | | |islands are, I believe, some 5 | | |miles apart at high Nile, but are | | |now practically one, owing to big | | |alluvial flat from which they | | |rise, being dry at this time of | | |the year (10.3.99). | | | | | |At this point, and for the next 3 | | |miles on the road, there are a | | |good number of shallow, 15 to 20 | | |feet, wells, giving good water, | | |slightly bitter. I only saw 3, but | | |7 were reported by natives. There | | |are a good number of camels to be | | |seen in this piece of country. | | | J. Auli | 8 | 25 |Eight miles further takes one to | | |J. Auli, a steep rock about 100 | | |feet high, with a small under- | | |feature on the N.W., about 50 | | |feet. There is a good meshra, or | | |watering place. Under this | | |mountain there is a good camping | | |ground for a brigade. | | | Gar El Nabi | 3 | 28 |Passing E. of J. Auli, after 3 | | |miles Gar El Nabi is reached, | | |which lies close to it. These 3 | | |miles are through open bush, with | | |river visible about ½ to 1 mile | | |off. | | | | 4 | 32 |For the next 4 miles the bush gets | | |thicker and the road is crossed by | | |small khors, and in places by | | |cultivation zeribas. River | | |invisible. | | | | | |Next 6 miles the bush gets more | | |open again, and a line of small | | |sand hills is seen along the river | | |edge hiding it. Horses can be | | |watered anywhere in this 6 miles. | | |In the last half of this distance | | |the trees cease on the east side | | |of the road and 2 large khors | | |cross it. | | | Opposite J. | 6 | 38 |At 38 miles J. Barima is opposite Barima or | | |on the other bank of the river. Breima | | |For about 2 miles before reaching | | |this point, and for 2½ miles after | | |it, the road runs through sand | | |hills, the river being visible | | |about ½ mile off. | | | | | |At this point (2½ miles south of | | |J. Barima) the river is quite | | |close to the road, which changes | | |its direction to 200° magnetic. | | | | 7 | 45 |The road rises slightly in the | | |next mile and 3½ miles further on | | |goes through bush which, though | | |open on the E. side, is fairly | | |thick on the W., making the river | | |invisible. | | | Wad Belal | 3 | 48 |After 3 miles through open bush | | |and sand hills, Wad Belal, a wood | | |station for steamers and a good | | |watering place is reached. | | | | 2 | 50 |For the first 2 miles from Wad | | |Belal the road runs through | | |scattered trees which become | | |fairly close bush on the river | | |side for another 2 miles. | | | El Geteina | 4½ | 54½ |The road enters a large plain of | | |cotton soil, with three tracks | | |across it to Arab dwellings, | | |towards the centre of the Gezira | | |about 4 miles in, and reaches the | | |large village of El Geteina. On | | |the river side there is a large | | |alluvial flat about 2 miles | | |across, and 3 to 4 miles long, | | |which runs north of El Geteina | | |towards Wad Belal. There is a | | |curious round sand hill in the | | |middle of this flat which must be | | |an island at high Nile. | | | | | |El Geteina consists of two | | |villages about 1 mile apart, the | | |larger of the two being to the | | |north. It is fairly clean and has | | |a very good market. There was a | | |certain amount of cultivation | | |going on with Shadufs (not an | | |amount proportionate to the size | | |of the village), and a large tract | | |of country is obviously sown with | | |dura during the rains. This was | | |the most prosperous village I saw | | |on the Gezira (March, 1899). It is | | |now Head Quarters of Geteina | | |District. | | | | | |One mile over cotton soil beyond | | |the village of El Geteina, a small | | |one of the same name is reached. | | | | | |Immediately on leaving this, the | | |road runs into sand dunes with | | |bush for 1 mile; river close (200 | | |yards). | | | | | |After that, 6½ miles of very good | | |going through scattered trees. The | | |road here is crossed by a large | | |number of Arab tracks to meshras; | | |and many herds of sheep and goats | | |were seen. River invisible from | | |road. | | | | | |The next 3 miles runs through | | |fairly thick bush with open | | |spaces. This bush gets thinner as | | |it recedes from the river. During | | |the next 2½ miles the road passes | | |to west of a fine strip of open | | |cotton soil about 2½ miles wide, | | |separated from the river by a | | |thick strip of bushes and a large | | |alluvial plain, so that now | | |(12.3.99) it is about 2 to 3 miles | | |from the river. Much dura seems to | | |have been grown here, but only a | | |small portion of this large plain | | |was under cultivation last year. | | | | | |At the end of this plain to the | | |S.E. there are a line of sand | | |hills running N.E. to S.W., and | | |getting gradually smaller towards | | |the S.W. These run alongside the | | |road, beyond the open plain, and | | |end in some small dunes near the Garrasa | 12 | 66½ |village of Garrasa. Garrasa is a | | |small village—without a market—the | | |people of which seem poor. There | | |is a good meshra here. Leaving | | |Garrasa the road runs through | 3 | 69½ |about 3 miles of dura land, a | | |large part of which has been | | |recently cultivated. River ¼ to ½ | | |mile away. | | | Wad Shalai | 2½ | 72 |After 2½ miles more, alongside | | |sand hills near the river, the | | |road reaches the small village of | | |Wad Shalai—the inhabitants of | | |which were all away on the river | | |bank cultivating. | | | Wad El Saki | 7 | 79 |Seven miles further, Wad El Saki, | | |a large village on the top of some | | |sand hills, is reached. | | | | | |The population was about 400 to | | |500 (March, 1899). The road runs | | |the first half of this distance | | |through sand dunes on both sides, | | |with the river close and visible. | | |The last half leaves the river | | |gradually, and passing through | | |some dura ground, is about 1½ | | |miles from it at Wad El Saki. | | | Sayef | 3 | 82 |From here 3 miles take one to a | | |few houses about 2 miles from the | | |river on some sand hills called | | |Sayef, being one of three villages | | |of that name. | | | | 4 | 86 |After 4 miles over cotton soil the | | |road crosses a sand-hill ridge | | |running at right angles to the | 1 | 87 |river, and about 1 mile from it, | | |and descends into the plain close | | |to the river at a point where | | |another village, also called | | |Sayef, is seen about 2 miles | | |inland. At this point there is a | | |good meshra, and a ferry to the | | |other bank. | | | | 6 | 93 |After several miles of low scrub | | |on the river side, and cotton soil | | |which has all been cultivated, on | | |the east Debasi Meshra is reached. | | | | | |Here the Khalifa had a big grain | | |depôt, the ruins of which can | | |still be seen. There is a regular | | |ferry from here to the other bank. | | |Two miles from this meshra is the Debasi | 2 | 95 |village of Debasi; population | | |about 400. The road for this | | |distance is through sand hills, ½ | | |mile from the river. | | | | | |The village is on the north bank | | |of deep khor. No water in khor | | |(13.3.99 or 1.10.99), but might | | |entail 2 or 3 miles circuit at | | |high Nile. From Debasi to Shabasha | | |(3½ miles) road close to bank. | | |Thence to 14th mile 1 to 1½ miles | | |distant. | | | | | |Stony hills from 6th to 12th mile | | |east of road. Sandy bank to river, | | |good watering; slight scrub close | | |to river to 6th mile. Thence scrub | | |and sunt trees along road (thick | | |near river), cotton soil, muddy | | |bank. Road closes to river at | | |Ghobeisha. | | | Ghobeisha | 13 | 108 |Ghobeisha meshra and village, good | | |place for camp and watering. Road | | |crosses open plain with high grass | | |cotton soil, probably under water | | |at high Nile. | | | Ghayafa | 4½ | 112½ |Ghayafa meshra, good camping | | |ground and watering place; sand | | |hill near meshra. Scrub fairly | | |thick, cotton soil. | | | Denegila | 8½ | 121 |Denegila village, W. of road, | | |opposite island of same name; 1½ | | |miles further, village Abu Karun, | | |N. of road, where it crosses track Um Gar | 4 | 125 |to Um Seneita, thence to Um Gar | | |village, W. of road, opposite | | |island same name. Dura crops in | | |this district; thick bush close to Meshra El | 3 | 128 |river to Meshra El Hella. Road Hella | | |runs close to river to Kawa. | | | Kawa | 4 | 132 |Kawa, large village with suk, Head | | |Quarters of District, Post and | | |Telegraph station. Road runs ½ | | |mile to 1 mile from river through | | |dura cultivation, and then over | | |grassy plain past village Abu | | |Hindi. | | | Meshra | 6 | 138 |Meshra and village close to river. Shaggara | | | | | | | | |Thence past Kanuz village, with | | |island opposite, the road runs ¼ | | |mile to ½ mile from river to Hassan Alob | 7 | 145 |Hassan Alob, on the banks of the | | |river with an island called Dabus | | |opposite. Still through bush Nur Ed Daim | 3 | 148 |country to Nur El Daim (large | | |village and police station). Road | | |leaves river ½ mile to 1 mile Sheikh’s tomb | 3 | 151 |distant up to Sheikh’s tomb | | |(Sheikh Nur El Taib), which is on | | |the river bank. Three large trees, | | |a ruined mud and brick building, | | |and some flags mark it. | | | Shawal | 2 | 153 |Road bends due S. to Shawal. Large | | |village. Country: open bush, | | |slightly undulating; good sandy | | |watering places at river. J. | | |Tueima visible S.E. Aba Island | | |begins 2 miles S. | | | Malaha | 3 | 156 |Meshra Malaha and village | | |Meleliha; 3 miles further on salt Marabia | 8 | 164 |works. Road enters scrub; bush | | |country to Marabia, good camping | | |ground on high ground, where there | | |are the ruins of an old fort and | | |brick buildings. Road leaves | | |river, crosses a grassy | | |plain—probably under water at full | | |Nile—passed village Torba, E. of Goz Abu Guma | 16½ | 180½ |road, and turns S.W. to Goz Abu or Zeinuba | | |Guma, Head Quarters of District, | | |telegraph and post office. | | | | | |From Goz Abu Guma road runs ½ mile | | |to 1 mile from river. Line of | | |villages (_see_ sketch) on high | | |ground about 4½ miles from river. | | |Chiefly cattle grazing. | | | _El Khema_ | 6 | 186½ |Road joins river at El Khema. | | |Police post to Mokada Abu Zeit; _Mokada Abu | 4½ | 195½ |good camping ground and small Zeit_ | | |village. There is a ford here at | | |low Nile. Two miles further on | | |Musran Island begins and continues | | |to 3 miles of Jebelein. | | | _Meshra Hedib_| 4½ | 200 |Meshra Hedib to Musran Island. The | | |road keeps close to the river | | |bank. The E. channel seemed very | | |much blocked with sudd, only a | | |narrow passage 50 yards wide being | | |visible at times. | | | | | |There is a meshra to Musran | | |Island, 7 miles as the road turns | | |from Jebelein called Zuleit. Hence _Meshra | 17½ | 217½ |the road winds through thick Zuleit_ | | |scrub, with patches of open | | |country right up to the ford at _Jebelein_ | 8½ | 225 |Jebelein. | | | | | |Rocky hills commanding the river | | |about 300 feet high. | | | | | |Grassy plain between north and | | |south ridges. | | | | | |Village on E. of southern ridge. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 33.—KHARTOUM TO GULE, _viâ_ MANAGIL AND SEGADI. BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT, FEBRUARY, 1902. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Khartoum | — | — |Leaving Khartoum by the track | | |passing 200 yards west of the | | |westernmost rifle butts, the | | |country for the first 7 miles is | | |quite open, and very slightly | | |undulating. The soil is poor and | | |sandy, and no attempt at | | |cultivation is visible. At 8 miles | | |the track passes through low | | |scattered arak bush, which _Id El | 17½ | 17½ |continues to Id El Agaliin, where Agaliin_ | | |there is one well 120 feet deep | | |with a good supply of water. Ahmed | | |El Faki is the Omda of El Agaliin. | | |Very fair grazing for camels on | | |arak bush. Leaving the Id the | | |country soon becomes open and | | |bare, the soil richer, and traces | | |of cultivation appear. Numerous | | |cross tracks to the river are met | | |with. | | | _Id Wad El | 4 | 21½ |One well 120 feet deep; water said Bella_ | | |to be plentiful. | | | _Sherafat_ | 9 | 30½ |A tukl village (all villages met | | |hereafter are built of tukls) is | | |passed 1¼ miles on W. of track. It | | |has a well. A mile further on arak | | |and laot bush commence and _Id El Orus_ | 5½ | 36 |continue to Id El Orus, where | | |there is one well 120 feet deep; | | |water plentiful, but slightly | | |salt. About a mile before reaching | | |the Id a large village named | | |Debeisa is passed about 1 mile to | | |the east. The people here are a | | |mixture of Jaalin, Awamer, &c. | | |Very fair grazing for camels on | | |arak; there is little or no grass | | |here or anywhere else this year. | | | | 7½ | 43½ |On leaving the Id the same sort of | | |country continues, cultivation and | | |scattered arak bush, the track | | |still keeping the same S.S.W. | | |direction. At 7½ miles the road to | | |El Ribi branches off half left, _Id El Kereil_| 2½ | 46 |and 2½ miles further on Id El | | |Kereil is passed, ½ mile off on | 2 | 48 |the right, the village being about | | |the same distance further W. of | | |the well. The country now becomes | | |perfectly bare (at this season), | | |it being entirely under | | |cultivation, if not this year at | | |any rate in a good season, and the | | |bush ceases altogether. Villages | | |begin to get numerous, and natives | | |are more frequently met, as from | | |here on to Managil, but few leave | | |their villages for the river. This | | |district is known as Gutefab, and _Gutefab El | 4 | 52 |the chief village is El Areik Areik_ | | |(Awamer) which is on the road, the | | |Id being a mile to the east. | | | | 3 | 55 |About 3 miles on arak grows and | | |affords the only grazing for | | |camels, but it only extends for | | |about ½ mile along the road; the | | |country then become scattered with | 2 | 57 |laot bush and naal grass. | | | Goz El Naga | 2 | 59 |Goz El Naga is passed about a mile | | |on the right. Not much cultivation | | |visible about here. | | | Dagala | 3 | 62 |A small village with no well. | | | | 1½ | 63½ |Road branches: right to Sarhan, | | |left to Wad Abu Kassawi, where Wad Abu | 3 | 66½ |lives the sheikh of the same name; Kassawi | | |his ancestors are buried close by, | | |and have always been of a so- | | |called religious nature and used | | |to be at any rate, if not now, | | |head of a dervish-like Tarika. | | |Village consists of about 100 | | |tukls. Low laot bush around here. | 1¾ | 68¼ |Leaving the village on bearing | | |216° after 1¾ miles road from _Sarhan_ | 3 | 71¼ |Dagala to Sarhan is met and | | |followed; the well of Sarhan being | | |passed close by on the left and | | |the village about 1 mile on the | | |right. Country here quite flat, | | |and covered with naal grass where _El Ogda_ | 5¾ | 77 |not cultivated. El Ogda a large | | |Mugharba village with one well of | | |the usual depth, 120 feet. Water | | |plentiful, 50 camels watered | | |without inconvenience to | | |inhabitants. Leaving the Id, | | |country continues the same flat | | |naal-covered plain with occasional _Wad El Zein_ | 11¾ | 88¾ |laot bushes until nearing Wad El | | |Zein (Omda Ahmed Wad El Zein), | | |where remains of cultivation | | |increase. There is one well 120 | | |feet deep. Natives, Mugharba. No | | |grazing here for camels as | | |elsewhere in this neighbourhood. | | |Cultivation occurs at intervals, | | |becoming more general after | | |passing Sheteita a small Mugharba _Sheteita_ | 4 | 92¾ |village. Kreimet is a large Arakin | | |village, Omda Ahmed Yusef. Its two _Kreimet_ | 5½ | 98¼ |wells are 4 miles further on. | | |Another large Arakin village on _Wells_ | 4 | 102¼ |left of road with a well, as also | | |have two other villages close on El Tageia | 1¼ | 103½ |right of road. | | | _Managil_ | 3½ | 107 |The plural of El Mangala, the name | | |given to the village in which the | | |suk is situated. There are some | | |half dozen to a dozen villages | | |close together. There are three | | |wells and water never fails, | | |notwithstanding they are 150 feet | | |deep. Here there are inspector’s | | |houses, a Mamur, Zaptia, &c. There | | |is a large mixed population, some | | |of whom were seen playing a game | | |called “tiwa” very like rounders. | | |The plain of Managil is absolutely | | |flat, without a single bush in | | |sight, the whole in favourable | | |seasons being given up to | | |cultivation. Market days are | | |Sunday and Wednesday. Leaving | | |Managil by the route taken Otgi | | |(Hameg), Dar Nail (Hameg), Wad El | | |Shagl (Faradiin) are passed a mile | | |or more on the right hand, whilst | | |Takala and Um Dugl are passed on | | |the left, before reaching Um Talha | | |a Faradiin village. All these | | |villages have wells, as have all | | |villages of any pretensions about _Um Talha_ | 9½ | 116½ |here. | | | _Sheleikha_ | 2½ | 119 |A Shaigia village passed on left, | | |and Wad Doka on the right, before _El Amara_ | 3½ | 122½ |reaching El Amara (Hameg), and ¾ | | |mile further on Wad Gangar _Wad Gangari_ | ¾ | 123¼ |(Shaigia), Rabaha is 1¾ miles | | |further on, and a ¼ mile before _Rabaha_ | 1¾ | 125 |reaching it a small suk is passed. | | |From here on the people are | | |Kawahla. | | | | | |Between Managil and Rabaha the | | |track appears to follow a low | | |ridge overlooking an extensive and | | |fertile plain to the W. growing a | | |large amount of cotton and dura. | | |J. Maturi is plainly visible. | | | | | |After leaving Rabaha track passes | | |through low laot bush which | | |continues as far as Khalet. Two | | |villages, Hellet El Hag and Wad | | |Abdel Rof, are passed about a mile | | |on the right and left of road _en | | |route_, as also is Sheikh Abdel _Khalet_ | 5½ | 130½ |Rof’s tomb. The well at Khalet is | | |the last on the road to Segadi, | | |there are several other Kawahla | | |villages with cultivation and | | |wells close by. Imam Ali is the | | |head Kawahla Sheikh. From Khalet | | |it is possible under favourable | | |conditions to see J. Segadi. Soon | | |after leaving Khalet the first | | |kittr is met, it now becomes the | | |prevailing bush. | | | Wad Mukashfi | 4½ | 135 |Called after the son of the | | |Dervish Emir who captured Sennar, | | |who (son) now lives here and is | | |said to have only lately come out | | |of prison for dervish practices. | | |This is the last village in the | | |Managil District of Blue Nile | | |Province. The Sennar Province is | | |now entered. After passing the | | |Mukashfi cultivation, the road | | |leads across an uninhabited | | |waterless plain until Segadi is | | |reached. This plain, on which | | |numerous camels are grazed during | | |the rains, is, as a rule, open and | | |covered with naal and siha grass | | |intersected at intervals by belts | | |of kittr, the thickest and widest | | |is in the last 4 miles before | | |reaching the hamlet on the north _J. Sejadi_ | 24 | 159 |of J. Segadi. Another outlying | | |hamlet is Ereiga, which was passed | 1 | 160 |but not seen, about 4 miles from | | |the jebel which strongly resembles | | |J. Kassala on a small scale. It | | |consists of two main granite | | |masses lying north-east and south- | | |west, the wells being between | | |them. There is also one on the | | |western side of main jebel. The | | |village, which must contain some | | |1,500 inhabitants, is close to the | | |western face of the larger jebel. | | |The population is very mixed, and | | |many only live here during the dry | | |season. Torin Ahmed (Rufaa) is | | |Sheikh of this heterogeneous | | |crowd. There are said to be caves | | |in the jebels here, which | | |doubtless occasionally harbour bad | | |characters from the Gezira and | | |elsewhere. | | | _Moya_ | 13½ | 173½ |Following the telegraph line which | | |runs E.S.E., Moya is reached in | | |about 13½ miles. Dense kittr is | | |passed through _en route_, but the | | |road is cleared for the wire. | | |Approaching Moya much cultivation | | |is passed in clearings in the | | |bush. The name Moya as applied to | | |this village is an euphemism as | | |water is particularly scarce, and | | |is obtained from several 15 to 20 | | |feet wells under the jebel 1 mile | | |south of the village. In the hot | | |weather the inhabitants (probably | | |2,000) disperse or else carry | | |their water from Segadi. The | | |Omda’s name is El Imam Hadibai, | | |and the majority of the population | | |are Amarna, a few Hameg and | | |Gowama. There are caves called | | |“maiuba” in the jebel close to the | | |village, said to be used for | | |“fogara.” From the summit of the | | |jebel, J. Dali is plainly visible | | |on a favourable day, bearing 177½° | | |magnetic. There is little shade | | |here. | | | Road to Teigo | 3 | 176½ |After hugging the eastern end of | | |J. Moya, the road to Gule turns | | |nearly due south, the road to | | |Teigo branching off S.S.E., and | | |after traversing a bad belt of | | |kittr bush about ½ mile in width, | | |the road crosses a plain at first | | |studded with kurmet, but later | | |without bush at all. | | | | 4 | 180½ |Road here bifurcates, the left | | |hand track leading to the river | | |(Blue Nile). | | | | 5 | 185½ |The road from Seneij or Senga to | | |Goz Abu Guma _viâ_ J. Dud crosses | | |the track. | | | J. Sereig | 10 | 195½ |A small granite hill about 200 | | |feet high, the road passes it 100 | | |yards on the right hand. | | | | 6 | 201½ |Scattered bush now commences and | | |continues with occasional _J. Dali_ | 19½ | 221 |interruptions until reaching the | | |bad kittr about 1 mile wide | | |surrounding Jebel Dali, a stony | | |hill about 500 feet high. Water is | | |found about half way up, | | |immediately below its highest | | |point. After a good rainy season | | |it lasts till March or April, but | | |there was practically none on | | |February 4th, 1902. | | | | | |The road from Senga _viâ_ Teigo on | | |Blue Nile to Musran and Goz Abu | | |Guma passes by this watering | | |place. Remains of former | | |habitations of Abu Rof Arabs are | | |visible. Leaving the jebel in a | | |southerly direction after | | |traversing a thick belt of kittr, | | |½ mile wide, J. Teigo is visible J. Abu Garud | 22 | 243 |on the left and J. Abu Garud and | | |other hills on the right. Abu | | |Garud is the highest hill seen | | |south of Khartoum. At first the | | |country is open, then forest | | |(chiefly soffar) begins and J. Bozi | 9 | 252 |continues till after passing J. | | |Bozi a long, low hill immediately | | |under the west end of which the | | |road passes, and then becomes open _J. Mazmum_ | 14 | 266 |until reaching J. Mazmum. Here | | |rain and spring water is found in | | |natural tanks in perhaps half a | | |dozen places. The amount of water | | |of course varying with the rains. | | |There was sufficient in a tank at | | |the foot of the southern end of | | |the western face of the jebel to | | |water 40 camels and 40 men for two | | |days. This exhausted this supply. | | |A spring at the foot of the | | |southern end of the western face, | | |being on the road, is the one | | |generally used, and the supply is _Water Tank_ | 1½ | 267½ |consequently low. There is a tank | | |about 20 yards by 10 yards on a | | |detached hill, about ¾ mile N.W. | | |of main jebel. Water was found of | | |an average depth of 2 feet, both | | |sweet and clear. This being off | | |the road had not been much used. | | |There is said to be always water | | |at Mazmum. No natives[21] live | | |here now, though formerly it was | | |head quarters of the Abu Rof | | |Arabs, the remains of whose houses | | |are still visible. Good shade (200 | | |men), and very fair grazing for | | |camels near western water tank. | | |From here, Gireiwa and other hills | | |to the S. and S.E., as well as | | |Bunzuga and Abu Garud are easily | | |visible. | | | | 4 | 271½ |The track to Gule still leads | | |south, the country being open for | 5 | 276½ |first 4 miles, when narrow belt of | | |bush is traversed. Five miles | | |further on thick soffar bush | | |commences which develops into | | |forest, which extends E. and W. | | |continuously for many miles south | | |of Gule. The principal trees are | | |hashab (very numerous about 20th | | |mile, but decrease as Gireiwa is | | |approached), talh, nabag, soffar, | | |kadad, and the poisonous (to | | |camels) hakabit. Wide clearings | | |along the path indicate that in | | |the old days this road was much | | |used, but now they are mostly | | |overgrown, and travelling by night | | |is an unpleasant, if not a | | |dangerous proceeding. | | | _J. Gireiwa_ | 21½ | 298 |Two long low hills running nearly | | |E. and W., and where the road | | |passes between them there is a | | |small supply of water (spring), 20 | | |yards on right side of road. | | | _El Burun_ | 7 | 305 |J. Gule is first visible from | | |here, and is a granite mass about | | |1,300 (?) feet high and 1¾ miles | | |long, lying nearly E. and W. El | | |Burun a small village at the foot | | |of northern face of the jebel is | | |first approached, the road then | | |turns to the west, passing an | | |encampment of Dar Agil Arabs, and | | |after rounding the western end of _Gule_ | 3 | 308 |Jebel Gule the village of Gule is | | |reached close at the foot of | | |western and of southern face. | | |There is a plentiful supply of | | |water, which, however, is largely | | |impregnated with lime and | | |consequently is injurious to | | |health. Idris Wad Regab is Sheikh | | |of Dar Fung and lives here. He is | | |a direct descendant of the kings | | |of the Fung, whose former | | |territory extended to the south | | |beyond the present limits of the | | |Sudan-Abyssinian frontier. The | | |total inhabitants of Gule and its | | |two outlying hamlets is about | | |1,000. The natives are Hameg, and | | |Selim and Dar Agil Baggaras roam | | |about in the neighbourhood. Roads | | |lead from here to Roseires (5 | | |days), Surkum (5 days), Karkoj, | | |and Renk (2 days). There is much | | |fever here during and after the | | |rainy season. There is good shade | | |about 1 mile east of the village. | | |Little in the way of supplies, not | | |even grain, is obtainable here. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 34.—MANAGIL TO SENNAR. BY CAPTAIN N. M. SMYTH, V.C., 1899. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Managil | — | — |Headquarters of District (_vide_ | | |preceding report). | | | _Abud_ (Abudia| 9½ | 9½ |Most fertile land in the Gezira Tribe) | | |hereabouts. Track runs E. through | | |grass plain. Bush visible 1 mile | | |to S. Two wells 150 feet deep. | | |Track N.E. to Mesellemia, E. to | | |Wad Medani, and S.E. to Sennar. | | | Um Deghina | 1 | 10½ |Pond, 60 yards diameter, dry after (Kawahla) | | |December. Cultivation commences. | | | | 2 | 12½ |Mimosa scrub W. of track. | | | | 3 | 15½ |Village of same name ½ mile S. | | | | 2 | 17½ |A dry pond. Mimosa 10 feet high, | | |and high grass on both sides of | | |the road. The Hassanat have a camp | | |in the winter about 2 miles W. of | | |track, and water at Abud and | | |Ataleih. | | | _Ataleih_ | 4 | 21½ |Two wells. A large tree ½ mile | | |N.W. serves as landmark. No good | | |shade obtainable. S. of this, | | |thorny scrub has sprung up on | | |fallow land. A track leading S.W. | | |to Bagadi, Kenana, Digoisab and | | |Hellet El Baragna. Track leads on | | |about S.E. | | | _Keteir_ | 6 | 27½ |Small village marked by a large | | |tree. One well about 150 feet | | |deep, runs dry directly after | | |watering about 200 people, 300 | | |sheep and 20 donkeys. | | | _Karatib_ | 4 | 31½ |Large village, good well, (Jaalin and | | |excellent black cotton soil Kenana) | | |extending for 3 miles in all | | |directions. Only patches have been | | |cultivated for dura. | | | | 2 | 33½ |Thick bush and high grass. View | | |limited to 300 yards. | | | _Basabir_ | 1 | 34½ |New well being sunk. Cotton and (Jaalin) | | |dura crops. | | | _Fahal_ | 1 | 35½ |About 50 huts to W. Copious supply (Kenana) | | |of water from well. A small khor | | |S.E. of it holds water till | | |December. Wood extends to S. | | | Fahal Suk | 1 | 36½ |Consists of rows of straw shanties | | |situated in a wood. It is chiefly | | |used by Kenana. | | | _El Giseirab_ | 2 | 38½ |One good well in a clearing in | | |wood. Easily defended; good | | |bivouac ground. | | | _Tulbakh_ | 4 | 42½ |Last mile of approach is open and | | |partly cultivated. Long straggling | | |village. Dry pond and cemetery N. | | |of it. To S.W. the market, and a | | |well and pond which dried up about | | |10th February. Mohammed El Nur of | | |Kenana is Sheikh of village. | | |Several hundred sheep, many | | |donkeys, one horse, fowls and | | |pigeons, but no camels. The best | | |marked track leads S. from the | | |Suk, and, bending S.E., passes | | |zeribaed dura fields to El Doma, | | |where there is a village and a _El Doma_ | 8 | 50½ |well. It continues, through shady | | |acacia and fields to Meshra El _Meshra El | 4 | 54½ |Dai, whence the Blue Nile can be Dai_ | | |reached. | | | _Meshra El | 2 | 56½ |Good halting place on bank. Bejirat_ | | | | | | _Sennar_ | 9 | 65½ |Banks wooded. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 35.—KEILI TO SENGA, _viâ_ GULE. COMPILED FROM A REPORT FURNISHED BY LIEUT.-COL. GORRINGE, MARCH, 1903. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Keili, S.W. | — | — |Limited water supply from water | | |holes, but more could be had by | | |digging down to 8 feet—cotton soil | | |in places and stony in others— | | |single file along track. | | | _Khor Farsia_ | 11 | 11 |Insufficient water at Kukulik, had | | |to go on to Khor Farsia, fair | | |supply of water by digging 4 feet. | | |After which, no water first 3 | | |miles. Cotton soil, single file. | | |After J. Doya, good hard going | | |cotton soil last 2 miles. | | | _Khor Togu_ | 33½ | 44½ |Ample water 18 feet below surface | | |in Khor Togu, first 4 miles cotton | | |soil. Rest house. After reaching | | |J. Dunkur good hard going for 3 | | |miles, then bad cotton soil, for 1 | | |mile each side J. Bur-Burka good | | |going, then bad again over cotton | | |soil, insufficient water at first | | |village 4 miles from spot camped | | |at, a little water half way | | |between village and camp in Khor | | |Togu. | | | _Seraf Dal_ | 10½ | 55 |Ample water running and in pools, | | |single file, stony, fair going | | |only, bad in places. Rest house at | | |Soda. | | | _Khor Tamrin_ | 7 | 62 |Fair supply of water in pools | | |probably ample by digging, a good | | |deal up and down hill, hard going | | |but stone, single file. | | | _J. Kukur_ | 5 | 67 |Good supply of water reported in | | |Seraf Sahaba, hard going, stony, | | |single file. Rest house. | | | _J. Buk_ (N.W.| 8½ | 75½ |Rest house. Fair supply of water end) | | |in water holes, cotton soil, | | |single file, bad going. From here | | |on no water, very bad going, hard | | |cotton soil badly cracked, single | | |file, though road has been | | |widened. | | | _J. Gule_ | 30½ | 106 |Residence of Sheikh Idris Wad | | |Ragab. Limited supply of water in | | |water holes, good supply from | | |Government wells, very bad going | | |except in few places, soil badly | | |cracked, single file, though road | | |has been widened. | | | _J. Jemam_ or | 9 | 115 |Small supply of water here. _Ali_ | | | | | | _J. Roro_ | 5½ | 120½ |Plenty of water in water holes 4 (N.E. side) | | |feet deep, going same as before. | | |Continuing, no water but better | | |going, though mostly cotton soil, | | |single file. | | | _J. Werka_ | 19 | 139½ |Small amount of water in holes. | | | _J. Gerebin_ | 15½ | 155 |Very limited supply of water in | | |water holes in two places at N. | | |side of hill, just sufficient | | |water in each to water about 100 | | |horses once. _There is however a | | |large tank of beautiful water on | | |the top of the hill_. This does | | |not last throughout the dry | | |weather. Going same as before. | | |From here to the river there is no | | |water, going for the first 7 miles | | |same as before, after which it | | |improves, but all marching is in | | |single file. | | | _Meshra Gurra_| 25 | 180 |From here good road down L. B. (Blue Nile) | | |Blue Nile to Singa. | | | _Ramela_ | 10 | 190 |Jaalin village. | | | _Abu Naam_ | 3 | 193 |Village on Blue Nile. | | | _Geneira_ | 8 | 201 | „ „ „ | | | _Seiro_ | 7½ | 208½ | „ „ „ | | | _Senga_ | 19½ | 228 |Head quarters of Senga District. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 36.—SENGA TO J. JEROK, _viâ_ KHOR OFAT AND KEILI. BY CAPTAIN C. ROBERTS, R.A., FEBRUARY, 1904. NOTE.—This was the route followed by the expedition against Ibrahim Wad Mahmud in February and March, 1904. It has not, hitherto, been the usual route to Keili, but as it is the most direct, and could be easily improved, it will probably be adopted, at any rate for Government purposes. From the mouth of the Khor Ofat to Keili (50 miles) there are no inhabitants and in February, 1904, no track. There is little difficulty about water, which stands in pools in the Khor Ofat, or can be easily obtained by digging in its bed. The distances cannot be taken as accurate. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Senga | — | — |Leaving Senga, road good, mostly | | |over cotton soil; last part better | | |than first, but dusty. Country | | |covered with bush. There are two | | |roads; westerly one to Um Bayaga | | |and thence S.E. towards river, | | |other road runs nearer the river. | | |Wheeled transport feasible. | | | _Um Benein_ | 6 | 6 |There are two Meshras here, bad at | | |High Nile, fair at Low Nile; wood | | |plentiful, grass fairly so. From | | |here two roads, the one nearest | | |river is shortest. Going on upper | | |road bad after leaving Dar Agil, | | |last part better along telegraph | | |line. Thick bush. Good camp about | | |2 miles from telegraph line. Good _Meshra Abu | 18 | 24 |Meshra, wood and grass plentiful, Hagar_ | | |duck jhil 3 miles S. of camp. | | | | | |From here two roads, one along | | |river, other along telegraph line, | | |latter shorter. Bad going, cotton | | |soil, thick scrub. Bad (steep) | | |meshra for animals. Headquarters _Abu Naama_ | 14 | 38 |of District. | | | | | |From here two roads, better and | | |shorter upper one along telegraph. | | |Country thick bush, more | | |undulating. Good going. | | | _Gura_ | 15 | 53 |Good meshra and shady camp. From | | |here two roads, lower one along | | |river the shorter—latter part | | |along edge of Maya Ahmar, and cuts | | |through it. River reached by | | |elephant track. Country dense | | |scrub, and difficult for camels at _Galgeni_ | 15 | 68 |night. At high Nile lower road | | |impassable. Good camp on sandy bed | | |of river. Grass plentiful and | | |watering easy. Road now good | | |though hilly, and follows | | |telegraph line, but branches off | | |to river opposite to Sherif Ahmed | | |(right bank). Dense bush. | | | _Taulu_ | 19 | 87 |A very good, large camping ground | | |on grass and good meshra. Wood and | | |grass plentiful. Camp must be | | |swampy in rains. | | | | | |Road still hilly; difficult khor | | |about 4 miles from camp, could be | | |easily improved. Road difficult | | |for camels owing to thick bush, | | |and road along telegraph too | | |hilly. | | | _Abu Kok_ | 17 | 104 |Camp at Abu Kok in February bad, | | |as site is really a marsh. Bad | | |water, but later on river is | | |getatable. | | | _El Disa_ | 10 | 114 |From here road along telegraph, | | |but later branches off to El Disa | | |on a rise overlooking small lake. | | |Very pretty place. Camped on sandy | | |river bed; easy watering; wood and | | |grass plentiful. | | | | | |After striking telegraph good | | |road, first 4 miles through thick | | |scrub. Hilly at first, level after | | |passing Abu Rainat, and much | | |cultivation. | | | _Roseires_ | 14 | 128 |Good meshra, fair camping ground, (Left Bank) | | |wood and grass plentiful. | | | _Kharaba_ | 11 | 139 |Continuing S. good going to (Right Bank) | | |opposite Kharaba. Good camp in | | |grove, tebeldis. Bad meshra; banks | | |steep and bed of river soft. | | | _Mouth of Khor| 16 | 155 |Good road, last part through dom Ofat_ | | |jungle to Khor Ofat. Found eight | | |water holes dug in khor, and | | |cavalry camped 1 mile further down | | |at pool in bed of khor. Good | | |camping ground in bed of khor; | | |grass and water plentiful. | | | | | |The route taken now lay nearly due | | |S. of Khor Ofat; for first 4 miles | | |followed khor, then found | | |excellent road, except for | | |occasional deep elephant tracks | | |along bank. Mostly cotton soil and | | |thick jungle. Descended into bed | | |of khor after 10 miles, and | | |marched up it to where we found _Camp (Khor | 16 | 171 |running water. Good camping ground Ofat)_ | | |close by. Grass, wood, and water | | |all plentiful. Continuing S. | | |outside khor, cotton soil, good | | |going, thick bush, grass higher | | |and thicker as we descended into | | |khor, 9 miles from last camp. Left | | |khor again still heading S., road | | |bad, cotton soil, trees bigger. | | |Last 4 miles country more open and _Camp, Pool | 20 | 191 |going better. Extended formations (Khor Ofat)_ | | |possible. Camped at pool where | | |large herd of roan drinking. Khor | | |400 yards wide. Good camp, grass, | | |shade, wood, and water plentiful. | | | | | |From here marched up khor; mostly | | |very heavy going, parts of it _Camp (Khor | 15 | 206 |hard. Uninteresting road. Khor Ofat)_ | | |narrows to 120 yards. Halted at | | |two big water holes. More water | | |obtained by digging under W. bank. | | | | | |Continuing marching up khor which | | |becomes narrower and stonier, | | |passed through several “shellal” | | |(cataracts) and khors running into | | |Khor Ofat. In places bed of khor | | |good hard going. | | | Camp (Khor | 15 | 221 |Banks become lower, bamboo jungle Ofat) | | |chiefly with large trees. Good | | |camp and water from holes in bed | | |of khor. | | | _Camp (Khor | 13 | 234 |Leave Khor Ofat to the W. At first Ofat)_ | | |bad going, pass large patch of | | |cultivation with tukls and leave | | |J. Ragreig on the E., and strike | | |khor at pool; good road. Khor 15 | | |yards wide and runs E. and W. | | |here. From here good road to _Keili_ | 5 | 239 |Keili. Good camping ground, but | | |water in wells dirty. Good water | | |obtainable from Khor Ofat, 4 miles | | |N.N.E. Garrison, 50 Sudanese | | |regulars. Path from here | | |excellent, passing through good | | |deal of cultivation and leaving J. | | |Kamya from which good view of a | | |surrounding country obtainable | | |close to E. | | | _Khor Timsa_ | 11 | 250 |After J. Kamya track intersected | | |by khors and is over bad cotton | | |soil. Good camp, grass poor, water | | |plentiful. | | | | | |From here to Jerok trying march, | | |as path continually ascends and | | |descends. J. Kurmuk is left to the | | |W. | | | _J. Jerok_ | 20 | 270 |Formerly the home of Ibrahim Wad | | |Mahmud. Garrison of 50 Sudanese | | |regulars on small hill, about 1½ | | |miles S. Water supply scanty, but | | |plenty for animals, 2½ miles S. in | | |Khor Agaheni. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 37.—ROSEIRES TO KEILI, _viâ_ GULE. BY MAJOR G. DE H. SMITH, FEBRUARY, 1902. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Roseires | — | — | | | | Abramat | 3 | 3 |Village on W. bank Blue Nile, road | | |goes through bush and grass. | | | _J. Agadi_[22]| 22 | 25 |Crossing Khor El Dunia, water here | | |in three places, not good. Road | | |now goes S. until Seraf Jogo; | | |usual cotton soil and bush. | | | _Seraf Jogo_ | 25 | 50 |Rest house and good water here in | | |khor from a spring; tobacco | | |cultivated by the Ingasana. Bad | | |going, over rocks; pass spring at | | |Pingulo; road going W. to Buk. | | | _J. Buk_ | 12 | 62 |Water here under villages on S. | | |side of hill, not good. Road goes | | |off N.W. towards Gule; grass and | | |bush and cotton soil. | | | _Gule_ | 27½ | 89½ |Water here good in two places on | | |S. side of hill. One deep well, _Khor Deleib_ | 16½ | 106 |good water, also big hole with | | |Sagia; track S.W. to Khor Deleib; | | |a flat depression with small khor | | |in it; sometimes water holes where | | |Arabs water sheep. Well 20 feet | | |deep, good supply of water; track | | |turns to S. to J. Silak. | | | _J. Silak_ | 22 | 128 |Water south side of hill, full of | | |filth, natives even say it is bad, | | |except just after rain. Rest house | | |here. | | | | | |Road goes off due E. through pass | | |in J. Sirefat to J. Mogaja. | | | _J. Majaju_ | 19¼ | 147¼ |Village on top of high rock; water | | |has to be brought down by natives— | | |very good; go due South now to | | |Abuldugu, road over hard ground. | | |Well can be easily sunk at bottom | | |of hill 6 feet deep. Rest house. | | | _J. Abuldugu_ | 16½ | 163¾ |Water here in pond in pass in the | | |hills, getting bad at this time of | | |year (Feb.). Water obtainable from | | |wells in K. Ganna, not very | | |plentiful, ½ hour E. There is a | | |Rest house here. | | | | | |Track due S. to J. Surkum. | | | | | |A track also goes to Keili (9 | | |hours march), water plentiful, | | |Kukeli two-thirds of way. | | | _J. Surkum_ | 14 | 177¾ |Water in four places on S. | | |side—very dirty. | | | | | |Water also obtainable in khor | | |about 1½ miles N.E. | | | _J. Keili_ | 20 | 197¾ |Track goes off to W., and is over | | |cotton soil, and crosses khors. | | |Water here plentiful. Best water | | |S. end of big hill some way up. | | |Rest house. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 38.—FAZOGLI TO GEZAN. BY LIEUTENANT L. C. JACKSON, R.E. [Sidenote: The Road.] Is in good condition throughout. It is very level, except where it crosses a khor or skirts a hill closely, there are no long ascents or descents. The large khors are all very shallow and broad, with sandy beds, so that at the present time of year, when they are all empty, they do not cause the slightest delay. When passing near a hill the road is generally rough and uneven, and covered with loose stones, and in addition numerous small khors have to be crossed. [Sidenote: The Country.] Is as a rule dead flat, with the exception of the Jebels, which are like so many islands. Except where there is cultivation, there is nothing but bush, varying in thickness, and grass, which is now being burnt. Cultivation as a rule consists of dura and semsem, but except where mentioned there is nothing but bush. Where the grass has been burnt, progress on foot through the bush is fairly easy as a rule. [Sidenote: Water.] Is very scarce. All the khors are now (December) dry, but water can be obtained from holes scraped in the bed. The supply is rapidly decreasing, and in two or three places where water was obtainable on our way out to Gezan, no water could be obtained on our way back, only three days later. Between the Khor Sumba and the Khor Karri, however, water appears to be plentiful, and in the Khor Tumat itself there seems to be an ample supply just below the surface. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Fazogli, Mek’s| — | — |The road leaves the village in a House | | |southerly direction and runs | | |straight to the foot of J. | | |Fazogli, on reaching which it | | |follows the S.E. spur, but without | | |ascending it. At first it runs | | |through patches of cultivation, | | |but after about ½ mile this gives | | |place to thin bush. The road is | | |for the most part good, except | | |where it crosses numerous small | | |khors, tributaries of the Khor | | |Akluli, which also follows the | | |foot of the ridge, as a rule | | |between the road and the high | | |ground. The ascent on the right of | | |the road is very steep, and the | | |hill side consists of boulders and | | |loose stones and is covered with | | |scrub. | | | _Kukuru_ | 6¾ | 6¾ |Whilst still W. of J. Kukuru, a | | |few tukls are passed, and shortly | | |afterwards the road bends | | |eastwards and enters the village | | |of Kukuru, which consists of some | | |50 or 60 tukls. There is a | | |considerable amount of cultivation | | |here, but most of it lies S. of | | |the khor on the Kira road. At the | | |end of December, 1899, water was | | |only obtainable from holes in the | | |bed of the khor, and appears to be | | |very bad and scarce. | | | | | |After crossing the khor the road | | |runs straight through the bush to | | |J. Taza, and thence to Khor Baba. | | |Up to J. Taza the surrounding | | |country is flat and the bush | | |thick, and nothing can be seen | | |from the road, except an | | |occasional glimpse of a distant | | |hill. A very small quantity of | | |water was obtained by digging in | | |the bed of the _Khor Daru_ on the | | |24th December, 1899, but four days | | |later on returning this had dried | | |up. | | | | | |Beyond J. Taza the country is more | | |undulating, but still covered with | | |bush, and for the last ½ mile | | |before Khor Baba it is somewhat | | |rough. | | | _Khor Baba_ | 8¾ | 15½ |Camped here 25th December, 1899. A | | |tributary of the Khor Tumat about | | |25 yards broad where crossed by | | |the road. Good water obtainable, | | |but getting scarce now. Road | | |beyond somewhat rough and uneven, | | |which is caused by the spurs of J. J. Agaro | 4½ | 20 |Agaro, &c., all of which hills are | | |left on right. Bush, with no | | |traces of water, until Khor Sumba | | |is reached, but J. Agaro is | | |inhabited by Jebelawin. | | | _Khor Sumba_ | 5 | 25 |Crossed three times in the space | | |of about ½ mile. Probably due to | | |an S curve in the river and not | | |three distinct channels. Breadth | | |of each about 35 yards, but | | |extremely shallow. Banks very | | |fertile and a good deal of | | |cultivation, principally dura. | | |Good water obtainable here. | | | Khor Tumat | 1 | 26 |Road just enters khor, where it is | | |joined by Khor Kari, but leaves it | | |again without crossing it. Khor | | |about 60 yards broad here. No | | |water visible, but could probably | | |be obtained by digging, as there | | |is any quantity just below the | | |surface about 5 miles further | | |south. From here to the Khor El | | |Dahab (Adaba), trees are bigger | | |and water evidently more | | |plentiful, with many traces of all | | |sorts of game. | | | _Khor El | 2¾ | 28¾ |Crossed by the road about ½ mile Dahab_ | | |from its junction with the Khor | | |Tumat. Water obtainable at | | |present, but very little and bad. | | |Road crosses east of J. Farbau, | | |passing over some of the low | | |spurs; ground broken and stony. | | |All traces of water now disappear | | |and the ordinary bush begins | | |again. Numerous small khors are | | |crossed, but all completely dry. | | |J. Gumbûk is left to the E., and | | |about 1 mile further on signs of | | |water are again visible and | | |cultivation recommences, also two | | |or three tukls. Henceforward | | |cultivation is continuous, and | | |about ¾ mile further on at some | | |more tukls the road turns abruptly | | |to the right and runs straight | | |down to the Khor Tumat. | | | _Gezan_ (Water| 8 | 36¾ |Camp here in bed of khor 26th pool in Khor | | |December, 1899. Water good and Tumat) | | |plentiful but below surface. | | | | | |Milk and other supplies only | | |obtained with great difficulty. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 39.—GEZAN TO KURMUK, _viâ_ SUDE AND M’NZILA. BY MAJOR GWYNN, D.S.O., R.E. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Khor Tumat | — | — |Track passes under the northern | | |foot of J. Gezan. Before reaching J. Ghezan | 3 | 3 |J. Sude, water is found in Khor | | |Durin and Khor Gaza. A certain | | |amount of gold washing is carried | | |on in both these water courses. | | | _J. Sude_ | 12 | 15 |Sude was the site of an old | | |Egyptian Mamuria. The present Mek | | |is a Berta and very few of the | | |natives know Arabic. There is a | | |good deal of cultivation and | | |plenty of water is obtainable. | | | _M’Nzila_ | 8½ | 23½ |M’Nzila is a large scattered | | |village to the south, and south of | | |J. M’Nzila a great deal of ground | | |is under cultivation. The leading | | |men, most of whom are Jaalin who | | |established themselves there in | | |the Dervish time, are prosperous. | | |Road from Sude to M’Nzila very | | |rough and bad, good water in the | | |Khor Goga near its source. | | | | | |From M’Nzila there is a fair, | | |though very hilly, road leading | | |west over the north shoulder of J. | | |M’Nzila and south of J. Tone. A | | |very deep ravine runs along the | | |south side of J. M’Nzila into the | | |valley between Dul and Kurmuk. | | | | | |The descent into the valley just | | |north of J. Tone is very steep. | | | _Sh. Adingam’s| 5½ | 29 |At the bottom of the valley is Sh. Village_ | | |Adingam’s village, where there is | | |a good water supply. | | | | | |Crossing the valley to J. Kurmuk | | |several gold washings are passed | | |near the foot of J. Dish. | | | | | |The Kurmuk village is very small | | |and there is little cultivation. | | | | | |The road from Sh. Adingam’s is | | |very bad and stony till clear of | | |the hills. Then there is flat, | | |thickly wooded country. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 40.—GULE TO RENK. BY CAPTAIN H. H. S. MORANT, FEBRUARY, 1902. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Gule (Rest | — | — |The track to Renk leaves Gule in house) | | |an easterly direction and for the | | |first mile traverses cultivation, | | |two small Selim Arab encampments | | |are passed on the right hand; | | |thick forest at once begins, | | |composed chiefly of 30 feet high | | |talh, hashab, nagba, kadad, | | |soffar, &c., and there is a large | | |amount of the (to camels) deadly | | |poisonous hekabit. At this time of | | |year the grass and undergrowth is | | |burnt, but the trees are so | | |thick[23] that they prohibit | | |marching at night unless with a | | |good moon. Riding a horse or mule | | |one is far less inconvenienced | | |than if on a camel. There are | | |fairly frequent open spaces | | |suitable for camping grounds. | | | | 21 | 21 |The dense forest ceases and more | | |or less scattered and much lower | | |bush takes its place. | | | | 5 | 26 |The country through which the | | |track leads becomes practically | | |open. | | | | 1½ | 27½ |A broad, ill-defined depression, | | |probably a marsh in rains. | | | | 5 | 32½ |Tall and rather close kittr | | |commences interfering somewhat | | |with progress. | | | | 2½ | 35 |The tall kittr ceases and country | | |becomes open. | | | Khor Deleib or| 2 | 37 |A khor, 15 yards wide and 10 feet El Sunt | | |deep is crossed, also known as | | |Deleib. | | | | 1 | 38 |Kittr bush commences and continues | | |for about 2 miles, not very dense. | | | | 4½ | 42½ |Dense tall kittr commences, | | |considerably retarding progress, | | |and lasts for 2½ miles. | | | | 2½ | 45 |Country becomes open and | | |cultivation is passed on left. | | | | 1 | 46 |Sheikh Bakhit’s (Dinka) rain | | |village is passed and the road now | | |runs along the side of a low, | | |sandy ridge dotted with heglig | | |trees, cultivation, and several | | |Dinka villages. | | | | 1 | 47 |Dinka village on right. | | | | 1 | 48 |Dinka village on left. | | | Khor Deleib or| 4½ | 52½ |Khor El Sunt is recrossed in two El Sunt | | |branches. | | | Sheikh’s | ½ | 53 |Sheikh Aweir Wad El Rung head village | | |Sheikh at Renk. | | | Village | 1½ | 54½ |Village. | | | _Meshra Renk_ | 1 | 55½ |Inspector’s and police houses on | | |bank of White Nile. Headquarters | | |of District. P.T.O. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 41.—JEBELEIN TO RENK (R.B.). BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, MARCH, 1902. -----------+-----------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | +-------------+---------+ Place. | | Total | Description. |Intermediate.| from | | |Khartoum.| -----------+-------------+---------+---------------------------------- Khartoum | — | — | | | | _Jebelein_ | 225 | 225 |Country round Jebelein is grass | | |with laot and kittr bush in thick | | |patches. River here 600 yards wide | | |(dry season), rocks showing river | | |in places. For first mile or two | | |after leaving Jebelein open grass | | |plain on E. of track, kittr bush | | |beyond. A few heglig trees between | | |track and river. | | | Sherif | 2½ | 227½ |Name of spot only; this name | | |applies to country next two miles. | | | Wad Nimol | 3½ | 231 | Island | | | | | | Um Romad | 3½ | 234½ |End of district of this name which | | |begins where Sherif ends. | | | _Maghaba_ | 1½ | 236 |District only; no inhabitants. N. | | |end of Bulli Island begins and | | |track along khor which forms it, | | |water only in places in khor. | | | Awad El | 2½ | 238½ |Khor and small hill of this name. Kerim | | |Road alternately good and bad from | | |kittr bush. | | | Debba Goda | 3½ | 242 |J. Abu Garud and Jebelein last | | |visible from here; Sheikhs Tomb on | | |bare hill 50 feet high. | | | Debba El | 2¼ | 244¼ |Small khor; ground slightly Ghoda | | |undulating and rising inland. | | | Ganus | 8½ | 252¾ |Bare, open high “debba” 50 feet | | |above track, no inhabitants, only | | |a name. | | | | | |No huts or signs of permanent | | |habitations; a few Baggara _Karshawal_| 9¼ | 262 |“rakubas.” End of Bulli Island. | | | _Old camp_ | 3½ | 265½ |Old entrenched camp about 80 yards | | |by 30 yards on rising ground 200 | | |yards from river on right hand | | |side of track, good meshra. | | | | | |Going bad on account of kittr. | | |This is last water before reaching Karshawal | 2 | 267½ |Agang as river makes a bend Island | | |westwards. | | | _Agang_ | 13 | 280½ |Dinka villages of Nyitau and | | |Manjak, generally called Agang. | | | _Renk_ | 3 | 283½ |Good meshra. Police Post. | | |Mosquitoes here are very bad. | | |Advisable to encamp inland near | | |Dinka villages. Telegraph and Post | | |office here. -----------+-------------+---------+---------------------------------- 42.—RENK TO KAKA OLD WOOD STATION (HELLET EL NYAM NYAM), R. B. BY CAPTAIN H. H. MORANT, MARCH, 1902. [Sidenote: General.] The road described below runs along the river bank, or the banks of khors adjoining the river. Since the erection of the telegraph line (1903), the road along the line is the more generally used, being more direct. In the rains, a road running from Renk to Goz Kash Kash thence to Awitong is said to be the one used—this road probably leaves the river about 8-10 miles to the W. -----------+-----------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | +-------------+---------+ Place. | | Total | Description. |Intermediate.| from | | |Khartoum.| -----------+-------------+---------+---------------------------------- Khartoum | — | — | | | | _Renk_ | 283½ | 283½ |A meshra on the W. Nile with | | |inspector’s house and police | | |tukls. The road at first leads in | | |a S.E. direction, and after 2 Khor Deleib| 2 | 285½ |miles Khor Deleib 30 feet wide and | | |about 6 to 10 feet deep is | | |crossed. Another smaller khor, a | | |branch of Deleib, is crossed ½ | ¾ | 286¼ |mile further on. The road now runs | | |alongside a wide khor or branch of | | |the Nile named Gaza El Abiad. The | | |track to Gule branches off in a | | |S.E. direction. Numerous Dinka | | |villages are passed about a mile | | |E. of the road (which is excellent | | |going), and continue at intervals | | |until after passing Sheikh Bakhit | | |Niok’s (a released slave from Warrit | 9 | 295¼ |Cairo) village Warrit ½ mile E. A | | |few Shilluk villages are passed on | | |the island called Wad Ab Kona, | | |formed by Khor Gaza El Abiad and | | |White Nile. This khor at High Nile | | |is probably 300 yards to 600 yards | | |wide, but now (March) it is | | |nowhere more than 300 and fordable | | |nearly everywhere. There are many | | |wild fowl on it. S. of Warrit the | | |people are mostly Selim Baggara | | |living in temporary encampments | | |about a mile inland for the | | |grazing. | | | _Um | 11¼ | 306½ |The encampments now cease and the Hedeida_ | | |water in the khor gradually | | |decreases until at Um Hedeida, | | |water is stagnant and only in | | |small quantities. The country on | | |E. of track which always follows | | |the eastern bank of khor, is | | |covered with 3 feet high grass | | |(where not burnt), and scattered | | |bush and no signs of cultivation | | |are visible. | | | | 3 | 309½ |Water reappears in the khor, and | | |there are Selim encampments to the | | |E. of the track. | | | _Leungtom | 3½ | 313 |At meshra Leungtom (Dinka) or or Domaia_ | | |Domaia (Arab) the Nile is | | |approached again for the first | | |time since Renk. About 1½ miles | | |inland are the villages of Kolang, | | |El Wat, &c., under Sheikh Salem | | |Banga (also a released slave from | | |Cairo). A certain amount of | | |cultivation is visible and the | | |country is tolerably open. Soon | | |after leaving the meshra, the | | |track follows the eastern bank of | | |a khor resembling Gaza El Abiad. | | |The Arab name for it varies with | | |the districts it traverses. The | | |Dinka name was not obtained. On | | |the W. of the track is a fringe of | | |thick talh bush, to the E. the | | |country is fairly open. | | | Debba El | 4 | 317 |The first dom palms are met here. Zawia | | |This Debba is the commencement of | | |the Nabagaia district. | | | Dinka | 2½ | 319½ |A village, Anok, belonging to village, | | |Agweim Dinkas, is passed about ¾ Anok | | |miles to E. on a slight elevation | | |and thick talh bush commences on | | |both sides of the track. This | | |village appears to depend on the | | |river for its water supply. | | | | | |The bush gradually develops into | | |talh and heglig forest. There is | | |good shade all along the khor and | | |the track, as it has been | | |throughout, is excellent; the | | |trees along the route cause little | | |inconvenience. | | | _Tereiba_ | 9 | 328½ |Nabagaia district ends and Tereiba (Arab) | | |begins, and is marked by the | | |reappearance of dom palms. | | | | 2 | 330½ |An excellent mid-day camping | | |ground, good shade and water in | | |the khor. J. Ahmed Agha is visible | | |from near here. | | | Debba | 3 | 333½ |Dense forest continues until Ibrahim | | |reaching this slight elevation Sharak | | |(called after a man who was killed (Arab) | | |by an elephant here), and | | |commences again after about a mile _El Ragal_ | — | — |of open ground, and the district (Arab) | | |of El Ragal (Arab) begins, and the | | |khor now takes that name. | | | Track | 2½ | 336 |A track branches off eastwards and leading to | | |is said to lead to a Dinka village Kash Kash | | |or district called Kash Kash 15-20 (Arab and | | |miles from the river. There are Dinka) | | |said to be wells there. The bush | | |or forest after leaving Debba | | |Ibrahim Sharak up to this point is | | |unpleasantly thick, especially for | | |night travelling, but here the | | |bush ceases to cause any | | |inconvenience. | | | Goz Abu | 3¾ | 339¾ |A slight elevation; a mile further Teiba | | |on the road was left and Khor | | |Sangeir about 100 yards wide and Khor | ¾ | 340½ |now (March) dry, was crossed. Sangeir or | | | Rau | | | | | | | | |This khor would probably be a | | |considerable obstacle in the | | |rains, and would have to be | | |crossed some distance up. After a | | |good rainy season the people in | | |the neighbourhood of Mabiu, which | | |is about 15 miles further up are | | |said to drink from it until well | | |on into the dry season. A mile Khor | 1 | 341½ |further on Khor Messangeir or Messangeir | | |Mariu, or Balantega, a rather | | |smaller khor is crossed. J. Ahmed _J. Ahmed | 1 | 342½ |Agha or Biba about 300 feet above Agha_ or | | |the plain. There are several Dinka _Biba_ | | |and Selim Arab villages in the | | |neighbourhood, but no one lives | | |here during the rains. The Dinkas | | |then retire inland and the Arabs | | |to districts N. of the fly limit. | | |From Ahmed Agba there is a little | | |used track to Jebel Ulu Gerauit, | | |which is visible from the top of | | |the Jebel, and is described as | | |being distant two days without | | |water. Sheikh Jok is the Dinka | | |Sheikh here and Akwé acts for him | | |when absent. There are many dom | | |palms around the Jebel. Water is | | |obtained from Khor Biba or Ahmed | | |Agha, the river which here bends | | |S.W., is about 1 mile W. of it. | | | Heglig or | 3 | 345½ |Is the name of the district which Tau | | |extends for about 6 miles opposite | | |to Gezira Wad Beiker on the Gezira Wad | 2 | 347½ |northern end of which is a Shilluk Beiker | | |village Edor Gamoia. Marbeit | | |(Arab) or Shakab (Dinka) is the Edor Gamoia| — | — |name of the next district. | | | _Marbeit_ | 2½ | 350 | or _Shakab_| | | | | | | 1½ | 351½ |The road which has been skirting | | |the branch of the Nile (about 30 | | |yards wide) for about the last 4 | | |miles now ceases to do so, and a | | |grassy plain which at High Nile | | |must be a swamp intervenes between | | |it and the river. | | | Ial Gamus | — | — |A Shilluk village on the island. | | |The Sheikh after whom the village | | |is named, is a refugee from Cairo. | | | Kwé | 4½ | 356 |A Dinka Farikh. | | | Alumbul | ½ | 356½ |Sheikh Ajak’s village. The country | | |round is fairly open, scattered | | |kitr and naal grass. Both these | | |villages are under the control of | | |Sheikh Salem Banga of El Wat. | | | _Meshra | 1½ | 358 |The meshra extends for about 2 Zeraf_ | | |miles; the road skirts the river | | |and crosses a wide, shallow khor Farlegh | 2 | 360 |called a Farlegh or Rigl by the Meshra | | |Arabs. It is said to come from Zeraf or | | |near Aturuk. Makwé | | | | | | _Rom | 3 | 363 |Dinka villages named Rom under (Dinka)_ or| | |Sheikh Jok. The district is known _Um Gursan_| | |by the Arabs as Um Gursan, the | | |track from Renk to this point is | | |as a rule excellent, but from here | | |to Kaka it is generally bad, | | |passing over very hard caked and | | |badly cracked cotton soil. | | | | 2 | 365 |Fine kuk and other trees are | | |passed. The small black fly was | | |exceptionally bad here in the | | |early morning and attacked the | | |camels in swarms. | | | Tereiti | 4 | 369 |The district of Tereiti begins. | | |Ardeib El Miriam (Arab) is the | | |district on opposite bank. | | | _Meshra | 3 | 372 |Meshra Rom or Tereiti. Rom_ or | | | _Tereiti_ | | | | | | Dinka | 3 | 375 |Villages belonging to Adeir villages, | | |Dinkas. River about 1 mile E. of Fil and | | |track, to the W. the country is Ajak | | |more or less open with patches of | | |bush and trees in places. | | | Dinka | 7 | 382 |Villages under Sheikh Akol Wad villages, | | |Ashol. Nakwé and | | | Fithi | | | | | | Jung Yom | ¾ | 382¾ |Dinka villages under Akol. The | | |river is now about 2 miles away, | | |right of road. | | | Debba | 1¼ | 384 |Arab name for knoll on right of Shagerat | | |point where road bends westwards | | |and crosses a marshy (in rains) Debeik | 2 | 386 |plain to Sheikh Akol’s village | | |about 1 mile from river opposite _Shagerat | — | — |Kaka, where there are many Shilluk El Ashera_ | | |villages. The Arab name for this or _Loing | | |marshy district is Shagerat El Shuk_ | | |Ashera, and Dinka Loing Shuk. (opposite | | | Kaka) | | | | | | | | |Skirting an open marshy (in rains) | | |plain on right and following line | | |of trees on left, Dinka village Ajok | 2¾ | 388¾ |named Ajok is reached. Tracks now | | |become numerous and ill defined, | | |and one was followed which led | | |across an open marshy (in rains) | | |plain to the Nile 2 miles N. of | | |Kaka, wood station, known as _Kaka, old | 6¼ | 405 |Hellet El Nyam Nyam; the village wood | | |is situated close to the river station_ | | |bank. -----------+-------------+---------+---------------------------------- 43.—RENK TO OPPOSITE KODOK (DUNJOL) (R. B.). BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, DECEMBER, 1902, JANUARY AND FEBRUARY, 1903. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Renk | — | — |Track taken depends on the time of | | |the year. Up to January inland | | |track must be followed owing to | | |water on the lower. | | | Telegraph Hill| 1 | 1 |On sandy hill near river; village | | |of Abd El Salam, a refugee Dinka | | |from Bahr El Ghazal. From here the | | |track follows the telegraph line | | |for some miles. | | | Khor Deleib | ½ | 1½ |Merely a dry ditch in the dry | | |season; another dry branch is | | |passed about 300 yards further on. | | |Country here is open grass land; | | |few small trees. | | | | 2½ | 4 |Thin forest of laot thorn bush and | | |small heglig trees. | | | Gaikwach | 3 | 7 |A village of the Aku district, | | |Sheikh Awat Wad Dual. Another | | |small village 300 yards further | | |on. | | | | 1½ | 8½ |Position of old Dinka village. | | | Kelang | 2½ | 11 |Small village of this name, left. | | | Loingwen | ½ | 11½ |Beginning of village of Loingwen, | | |which comprises five small ones, | | |all under Sheikh Bakhit Niok. From | | |here along the lower road there | | |are no villages before Elwat, and | | |travellers must halt near water. | | | Bangdit | 1½ | 13 |Sandy debba; no habitations. Scene | | |of a former fight between Dinkas | | |and Government troops. The track | | |now descends to the bank of the | | |khor that divides Island of Gaza- | | |el-Abiad from the mainland and | | |runs for the next 5 miles on high | | |sandy ridge within 500 yards of | | |the water. Guinea fowl and gazelle | | |in abundance; a few tetel seen, | | |and tracks of antelope, hippo, and | | |buffalo. A good deal of kittr near | | |track since Bangdit. No large | | |trees. | | | Lardbiu | 2½ | 15½ |Sandy debba on left. | | | | 2½ | 18 |Good camping ground. | | | Abiad Shwai | 1 | 19 |High sandy debba, which used to be | | |covered with big tamarind trees | | |which have now gone. Shortest | | |track is now along telegraph line, | | |but is probably impassable in the | | |rains. Leave khor on right. | | |Country bushy with small heglig | | |trees and some kittr. | | | | 3¾ | 22¾ |Sandy hill on right. Track now | | |crosses open plain of black cotton | | |soil, covered with rank grass. | | | _Elwat_ | 5¼ | 28 |Beginning of Elwat, district of | | |Gi-el. Head Sheikh, Salem Banga. | | | | 1 | 29 |Salem’s own village, about 2 miles | | |from the river. This is the first | | |meshra since leaving Renk. High | | |debba between this village and the | | |river. | | | | | |From Elwat the track runs | | |alternately through open ground | | |and patches of bush and red talh | | |to Anak. | | | Anak | 5½ | 34½ |Village of Gi-el district. Three | | |small villages. The local Sheikh | | |Ayik Wad Dok. Track now runs | | |through bush and thick forest for | | |many miles. Lower track deserted | | |by Dinkas, who follow the line | | |now, as being shorter. | | | Mabiu | 3½ | 38 |High debba on right on edge of | | |khor. Track along the khor is | | |close to line here; now get into | | |the land of big trees. | | | Dungbiagadet | 1½ | 39½ |Debba on right. | | | Allal | 2½ | 42 |Debba. Beginning of Allal | | |district, which exists in name | | |only. Arab name Tereiba. Many | | |thick dom palms. | | | | 1¼ | 43¼ |Debba Allal. | | | Ragal | 1¼ | 44½ |Beginning of district of Ragal. No | | |people. | | | Debba Ragal | 1¼ | 45¾ |Debba Ragal, about 200 yards from | | |khor. Little game seen here, | | |though plenty of fresh tracks of | | |elephant, buffalo, &c. | | | Kefali | ¼ | 46 |Debba. Many dom palms. This was | | |site of old Dinka village. Open | | |park land, which soon changes to | | |very thick forest; open again | | |after 1 mile. | | | | 2 | 48 |First view of Jebel Ahmed Agha | | |from track. | | | | 1 | 49 |Forest of red talh; old Dinka | | |elephant pits, and many skulls of | | |these beasts. | | | | 3¼ | 52¼ |Track divides, one going on to the | | |jebel and the other | | |eastwards—inland. This latter goes | | |to the Dinka district of Baanwen, | | |which lies up Khor Rau. A track | | |used to exist to Goz Kash-Kash, | | |but is now said to be “dead.” | | | Khor Rau | ¼ | 52½ |Khor Rau, about ¼ mile beyond bend | | |in the telegraph line; 40-feet | | |waterway, 3 feet deep; unfordable | | |for loaded transport animals on | | |account of mud (December). | | | _Jebel Ahmed | 2 | 54½ |The route followed will be seen by Agha_ | | |comparison to be several miles | | |shorter than the old track | | |previously sketched by other | | |officers. Shortest track is now | | |along line, though the going on | | |the lower tortuous native track is | | |better. | | | Goz Unaché | 2¼ | 56¾ |High ridge of ground on left, used | | |to be thickly populated by Kwach | | |Dinkas. Whole track is through | 5¼ | 62 |dense forest of heglig, sidr, kuk, | | |kittr, and talh, except at Mile | | |62, where there is a broad open | | |plain. | | | _Meshra Zeraf_| 7⅝ | 69⅝ |Also called Mukhada Zeraf. No | | |Dinka villages here, though there | | |are some old cattle zeribas. These | | |change yearly—last year’s spot was | | |called Anambul. Some Dinka | | |refugees are, however, going to | | |build this year on the meshra, | | |which is well suited for purposes | | |of being irrigated by shadufs or | | |sakias. This is the first meshra | | |since Elwat, and the last until | | |Kaka old wood station, though in | | |the dry season Meshra Rom becomes | | |a meshra. | | | | | |Jungle around Meshra Zeraf is | | |mostly kittr. | | | Khor Makwé | 1¾ | 71⅜ |600-800 yards wide, and even in | | |dry season impassable, for some | | |way up. In dry season a track | | |exists from here to Kaka wood | | |station by the river bank. The | | |track to the Dinka villages, | 4¾ | 76⅛ |however, runs up this khor till | | |Mile 76⅛, when the track leaves | | |the khor and runs off southwards | | |over a grass plain. Khor Makwé | | |runs on to Aturuk, a deserted | | |Dinka village. | | | Khor Turiak | 1½ | 77⅝ |Track runs along this khor, and 1 | | |mile further on crosses it. Arab | | |name for this khor is Fo-alig. | | | | ¾ | 78⅜ |Enter forest now, which consists | | |of trees and kittr bush, | | |alternately with occasional | | |patches of park-like land, for the | | |next 7½ miles. Khor Turiak is on | | |the left of track till spot where | | |track crosses it, and this khor | | |winds about on right of track till | | |Mile 89⅛. | | | Gi-ka-kiu | 11¾ | 89⅛ |This is the chief village of Rom, | | |and this is the name generally | | |used, though the people speak of | | |the grazing grounds near the river | | |as Rom, probably denoting that it | | |is the grazing of the Rom people. | | |Sheikh Jok Wad Ageir. | | | Debba Fajak | 4 | 93⅛ |Site of old village. | | | Kolerang | 1¼ | 94⅝ |Small village, part of Rom. | | | Bafing | 1 | 95⅝ |Small village, part of Rom. Trees | | |on horizon. Cross khor here. | | | | 2¾ | 98⅜ |Cattle zeriba left, belongs to | | |Fiti (_see_ later). | | | Gio | 1¼ | 100⅝ |Large village of Gio, of district | | |of Ageir, also called Faloich | | |(name of the spot). Village of the | | |Head Sheikh of Ageir, Akol Wad | | |Shol. Good wells here that suffice | | |for the needs of all the | | |inhabitants all the year round, | | |but not for all their cattle. From | | |Gio the track runs W. to Demtemma | | |along a well-defined ridge for | | |several miles; villages cluster | | |thickly along this ridge. Khor | | |Kayaluk runs on left of track. | | | | 1½ | 102⅛ |One of the villages of Beia can be | | |seen from here left. Trees 2 miles | | |off right. Thick bush 1 mile left | | |on other side of khor. | | | Debba Mioriak | 2 | 104⅛ |Debba Mioriak on left. | | | Ai-yowel | ¾ | 104⅞ |Village of Ageir on right with one | | |big tree on east edge. Village of | | |Kil 1½ miles off half-right. | | |Village of Makwé is behind Kil in | | |the forest. | | | _Jung-yom_ | 1½ | 106⅝ |Village, part of Ageir, on right. | | |Good wells, ¾ mile off on left in | | |bed of khor, available at all | | |period of dry seasons. Travelling | | |is now most uninteresting, no | | |villages and hardly a tree to be | | |seen. | | | Debba Fadiet | 4 | 110⅝ |Site of an old village. Vast grass | | |plain on every side; not a tree or | | |a bush to be seen, even on the | | |horizon. | | | Debba Fojbe | 3¼ | 113⅞ |Site of another old village. | | | _Demtemma_ | 7 | 120⅞ |Situated in belt of trees on river | | |bank. Was till recently a police | | |post, but latter has now been | | |moved to Melut, 3 miles down | | |stream, to where the telegraph | | |office is. | | | | 1½ | 122⅜ |Track crosses dry khor which would | | |be a considerable obstacle in the | | |rains. | | | | 1⅝ | 124 |Cattle zeriba of Beia on banks of | | |Khor Adar—which is 60 yards wide | | |here and 4 feet deep, muddy | | |bottom, clean banks. A big debba | | |on south side of the khor, and 1 | | |mile from the mouth of the khor. | | |Broad swamp on right of track. | | | | 2⅝ | 126⅝ |Track descends to river bank; | | |thick bush most of the way on left | | |of track. | | | _Tiang-rial_ | 4⅜ | 131 |A cattle zeriba of Beia left. | | |Backwater or small lake between | | |track and river. Island in river, | | |north end. | | | | ½ | 131½ |Thick bush left. | | | | ½ | 132 |End of backwater. March on river | | |bank; track winds along river | | |bank, occasionally through very | | |bad kittr bush, which can be | | |avoided in places by marching | | |along the foreshore. | | | | 5⅜ | 137⅜ |Big ardeib tree—conspicuous | | |landmark; backwater between tree | | |and river. After 2 miles the bush | | |ceases, and track lies over an | | |open grass plain. | | | | 4¼ | 141⅝ |Cattle zeriba of village of | | |Bekjuka (Beia). Name of locality | | |Niayok. Khor Awilwil starts here | | |and runs between track and river | | |all the way to just south of | | |Fashoda. | | | | 1¾ | 143⅜ |Cattle zeriba of Bawen and Addora, | | |of district of Ni-el. There are | | |three other zeribas between these | | |last two points. | | | Mialek | 3¾ | 147⅛ |Cattle zeriba of Bawen (Ni-el). | | | Fanomdit | 2½ | 149⅝ |Debba and cattle zeriba of | | |district of Dunjol. | | | Faloich | 1 | 150⅝ |Debba and cattle zeriba of Ni-el. | | | Wunakoch | ½ | 151⅛ |Cattle zeriba of Dunjol. | | | | ¾ | 151⅞ |Cattle zeriba of Bawen. Bush on | | |right between track and khor. | | | Jomweira | — | — |Cattle zeriba of Dunjol 100 yards | | |further on. Track now crosses | | |broad shallow khor 2 miles wide. | | | | 1 | 152⅞ |Bush right; grass plain left. | | | | ½ | 153⅜ |Track enters bush right, leaving | | |khor left. Forest of red talh and | | |heglig, which continues 2½ miles | | |to Mile 157⅛. | | | Faldiar Rowe | 3¾ | 157⅛ |Cattle zeriba of Dunjol Track | | |leaving this zeriba crosses a | | |shallow khor and passes through a | | |thin belt of forest on to the bank | | |of khor. | | | _Khor Awilwil_| 1⅛ | 158¼ |Awilwil, from whence Kodok can be | | |seen for the first time. Track | | |runs southwards along bank of khor | | |for ¼ mile, when all bush ceases, | | |and path is over vast, open, | | |undulating plain. | | | Debba Denkar | ½ | 158¾ |Good high debba. | | | | 1⅛ | 159⅞ |Track bifurcates here, one | | |following khor and going to | | |Ayung’s zeriba (_see_ later), and | | |the other running through the | | |Dinka villages of Dunjol. The | | |former track is the shorter by 2 | | |or 3 miles. | | | Amai-rial | 1¾ | 161⅝ |Village of Dunjol district which (opposite to | | |is spread over a vast plain Kodok) | | |opposite Kodok. | | | Amaal | 1¼ | 162⅞ | | | | Fiuweia | 1⅛ | 164¼ | | | | Ateptiap | 3⅜ | 167⅜ | | | | Khor Wol | ⅛ | 167½ |Track crosses this khor which has | | |water in it in pools and | | |excavations for 10 miles up. Can | | |be ascended by small steamers at | | |high Nile. French steamers used to | | |ascend in 1898. | | | | 1⅜ | 168⅞ |Large cattle zeriba of Sheikh | | |Ayung Wad Agwot, head of Dunjol. | | |This spot is almost due south of | | |Kodok. Between the river and this | | |track is a broad swamp and the | | |formidable khor Awilwil. From here | | |a track runs inland through the | | |remaining villages of Dunjol, | | |keeping in touch with Khor Awilwil | | |all the way, passing through or | | |past the following villages and | | |places:— | | | | | |Mile 2¼. Wunfit, debba with few | | | trees. | | | | | | „ 3¼. Faiung, village. | | | | | | „ 4⅜. Wumakoch, village. | | | | | | „ 6¼. Tallen, „ | | | | | | „ 8¼. Fanakwé, „ | | | | | | „ 9¾. Fakok, „ | | | | | | „ 10½. Ang-ak, „ | | | | | | „ 12. Fobodiet, „ | | | | | | „ 14. Temohuk, „ | | | | | | „ 16. „ | | | | | |eventually running to the Sobat | | |River, which it joins near the | | |Dinka district of Gnok. | | | | 1¼ | 170⅛ |Cattle zeriba of Fakwé. | | | Diem Ajak | ¾ | 170⅞ |Debba 600 yards right. Bush | | |commences 200 yards further on. | | |Khor Awilwil runs into the Nile | | |somewhere here by native report. | | | | 1¾ | 172⅝ |Cattle zeriba of Fadweia. Track is | | |good and winds along the khor, | | |which runs from near where Awilwil | | |joined the Nile to the south. | | | Wuntao | 2¼ | 174⅞ |Cattle zeriba of Dunjol. Name of | | |the locality as well as the | | |village to which the people | | |belong. The Shilluk Mek’s village | | |is due west. | | | Meshra Merial | 2¾ | 177⅝ |Said to be practicable all the | | |year round as a means of | | |communication between Dinka and | | |Shilluk banks. Shilluk village | | |Kwom opposite. Great numbers of | | |partridges all along here, | | |affording excellent sport walking | | |them up. | | | | | |The track along here is all good | | |going and would be quite passable | | |in the rains. | | | | 2¼ | 179⅞ |Cattle zeriba of Fadok (Dunjol). | | | Diwot | 1¼ | 181⅛ |First Shilluk village met with on | | |this (east) bank. End of the Dinka | | |country on the river. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 44.—JEBEL AHMED AGHA TO AWITONG AND KASH-KASH. BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, JANUARY, 1903. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Jebel Ahmed | — | — |The track up Khor Rau runs Agha | | |northwards for 2 miles and then | | |crosses the khor, and turning | 2 | 2 |eastwards follows it closely. | | |Country well wooded, though in | | |places the forest gives place to | | |bush. | | | _Gaibek_ | 7¾ | 9¾ |A village of the Dinka district of | | |Gi-el, sub-division Baanwen. The | | |whole of this country is in | | |certain years under water, not | | |from the local rains, but from the | | |overflow of Khor Rau, which brings | | |water down from the Abyssinian | | |mountains. After such a flood, | | |extraordinary dura crops are | | |harvested, being sown as late as | | |October, when the waters subside. | | | _Debba Mabiu_ | 5⅛ | 14⅞ |On R. bank of khor, which is here | | |some 60 yards wide, with pools of | | |water in places. Scene of fight | | |between Dinkas and Government | | |troops in reign of Said Pasha. | | | | ¾ | 15⅝ |Cattle zeriba of Kwach, part of | | |Gi-el. Lake filled with weeds and | | |ambach. | | | _Birket Rau_ | 1 | 16⅝ |Another cattle zeriba of Kwach, | | |and just up stream a large open | | |lake or swamp, filled up with | | |weeds, &c. Quantities of wildfowl | | |and snipe; also lion, giraffe and | | |antelope, all of which were seen. | | | | | |From here a track runs inland to | | |the Dinka villages, and a track | | |exists up the khor, the ultimate | | |destination of which it is | | |impossible to judge from native | | |reports. Track inland very bad, | | |cracked cotton soil, and long, | | |rank, unburnt grass, which, bent | | |down by the strong north wind, | | |presents all its spikes at the | | |face of anyone marching | | |northwards. | | | Awitong | 6 | 22⅝ |Built on a mound which is | | |surrounded by water in flood | | |years. Country wooded, small | | |trees. | | | | 3 | 25⅝ |Very fine dura cultivation | | |extending for miles. Large white | | |dura; one “head” which was counted | | |contained 2,600 grains. | | | Dry lake | ¾ | 26⅜ |Extends some miles and track winds | | |along it. Many fruit-bearing sidr | | |trees in bed of it. | | | _Water hole_ | 1 | 27⅜ |Situated in thick forest; Dinkas | | |in zeriba near here water their | | |cattle from this and do not go to | | |river until it is dry. Elephants | | |had drunk here the previous night. | | | Woniat | ¾ | 28⅛ |Cattle zeriba of these Dinkas. | | |From here a good track goes to | | |Jebel Gerawi, two days’ march; no | | |water to be got on route. | | | Debba Fobung | 2¼ | 30⅜ |High sandy debba, from here a | | |small hill can be seen, Jokdit, | | |direction was pointed out by a | | |Dinka up a tree; bearing 355°. | | | | ¼ | 30⅝ |_Water hole_ at N., foot of debba, | | |dries up latter on. | | | | | |Track is now excellent, running | | |through sandy goz, ground high and | | |forest of fine trees (sabakh). | | |This road is passable all through | | |the rains, and devoid of long | | |grass and mud. Leads to Renk. | | | | 1 | 31⅝ |Two small dry ponds. | | | _Goz Kash- | 2¼ | 33⅞ |Heavy sandy ground; very fine Kash_ | | |forest of big trees. Six wells dug | | |in the sand, water said to be | | |available all the year round. One | | |huge ardeib tree by wells. Many | | |trees called “dorod” by Arabs, | | |“gia” by Dinkas. An old track runs | | |to the river on the Ahmed | | |Agha—Renk road, which it joins at | | |the spot where the old Dinka | | |elephant pits are, but it is now | | |disused and choked with grass. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 45.—ITINERARY UP KHOR ADAR. BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, JANUARY, 1903. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Mouth of Khor | — | — |Khor at mouth is about 40 yards Adar | | |wide and several feet deep, the | | |depth being, from about 100 yards | | |up-stream, uniformly 4 to 5 feet. | | |Dinkas say there is a current in | | |the rains. | | | | 1¼ | 1¼ |Cattle zeriba of Beia R.; bank; | | |big Debba L. | | | | ¾ | 2 |Cross a small khor that runs in | | |from N. | | | | 3¾ | 5¾ |Cattle zeriba on left bank. Khor | | |bends off to the R., and is joined | 1 | 6¾ |again at 6¾ miles, when track | | |follows it. Cattle zeriba on L. | | |bank ¾ mile away. Country is open | | |grass plain, except close to mouth | | |of khor where it is wooded, and a | | |few patches of scrub here and | | |there along the banks. | | | | 1 | 7¾ |Cattle zeriba Beia on R. bank. | | |Khor bends off and is joined again | 2 | 9¾ |at 9¾ miles, from where it makes a | | |big bend southwards, and is not | | |seen again till Rengachuk is | | |passed. | | | | | |Going so far very bad over much | | |cracked soil and few shade trees. | | | | | |Track now runs over a rank grass | | |plain to the first Dinka village | | |at | | | Tedao | 8½ | 18¼ |District of Beia; Sheikh Amwot wad | | |Aiwel. From here villages can be | | |seen ahead on all sides. Few | | |trees, practically a vast plain, | | |intersected with depressions that | | |in the dry seasons are hard to | | |define, and which in the rains | | |might be serious obstacles. | | | Bekjuka | 2½ | 20¾ |Another village of Beia. | | | Abai-at | 2¼ | 23 |Village of Ni-el; mostly cattle | | |thieves. | | | Jokdwet | 1¾ | 24¾ |Village of Jokdwet, of district | | |Ni-el. | | | Wuntao | 1¾ | 26½ | „ „ „ „ | | | | 2½ | 29 |Fairly thick trees and bush | | |lasting 1 mile. | | | Rengachuk | 5¼ | 34¼ |Village of Ni-el, of the Addora | | |people. Consists of two portions. | | |From here track runs down to khor | | |again. | | | | 2½ | 36¾ |At this point the khor is of | | |greater dimensions than at the | | |mouth, being 60 yards and 5 to 6 | | |feet deep; choked however with | | |long reeds and sudd. | | | | ¾ | 37½ |Track here crosses a small khor, | | |dry in January. | | | Khor Niagweia | ¼ | 37¾ |This is another important khor | | |that is reported to come from the | | |Burun country, but it was reported | | |dry a few miles up (January, | | |1903). It is probably the khor | | |shown on some maps as “Ez Zamma,” | | |a name which is not recognised by | | |any inhabitants, 60 to 100 yards | | |wide and 4 to 5 feet deep. | | | | | |Track now runs through jungle for | | |3 miles. | | | Khor Adar | 7¾ | 45½ |Khor Adar is met here again, | | |having, since fording Khor | | |Niagweia, been on the R. at | | |varying distances. Track now | | |follows it. Country here is very | | |uninteresting, no game and few | | |trees, but the ever present long | | |grass. Path meets the khor at | | | Raduk | ¼ | 45¾ |Width here 40 yards, depth 4 feet; | | |track cuts across a bend and meets | | |khor at | | | Gwatan | 3¼ | 49 |Cattle zeriba of Ni-el; people | | |mostly wanted by the police, and | | |who have retired to a safe | | |distance. Khor close on L. | | | | 2¼ | 51¼ |Track crosses a khor that is dry | | |100 yards up. | | | | | |Many elephant tracks on edge of | | |khor, but made in the rains. From | | |here a track exists through a | | |country of unburnt elephant grass, | | |the actual ground being well-nigh | | |impassable, being ploughed up by | | |elephants, and overgrown with a | | |tangle of vegetation, through | | |which nothing but fire or | | |elephants could make a path. | | |Looking from the top of an high | | |ant-heap, the country is seen to | | |be more wooded inland. | | | Khor Benatat | 7 | 58¼ |Is said to join Khor Adar about 7 | | |miles up. Dinkas also state that | | |two other khors joins Khor Adar | | |ahead, one from S. Khor Aturuk, | | |and one from N. Khor Fao-eng. | | | | | |From here to the Nuer country is | | |variously described as being from | | |2 to 5 days. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 46.—J. JEROK, _viâ_ J. ERI, KILWEGA, TO WAD DELUKA (ABOUT 52 MILES S.E. OF MELUT). BY MAJOR G. DE H. SMITH, MAY 1904. N.B.—This is not a route that is much used, but it was opened up by cutting the bush, etc., in May, 1904, with a view to its possibly being suitable as a trade route from Beni Shangul to the White Nile at Melut. The going is nearly all over bad cotton soil and the water supply is at present very uncertain. It would no doubt be difficult during the rainy season. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- J. Jerok | — | — |Site of Military Post. From here | | |route to J. Maiak is that taken by J. Maiak | 19 | 19 |the Wad Mahmud expedition in | | |February, 1904. _Water in pools in | | |Khor Ahmar_ 1½ miles before | | |reaching this hill. | | | _J. Eri_ | 11 | 30 |Pond of rain-water, very | | |uncertain, about 1½ miles from the | | |hill. | | | _Villages of | 9 | 39 |About 7 miles from Eri, a khor Gum Gum | | |with rain-water (May) is crossed, people_ | | |and further on, the villages of | | |Gum Gum people are reached. They | | |drink from pools to the east of | | |Khor Gemmeiza and, at certain | | |seasons, from rain pools about 1 | | |mile W. of villages. | | | _K. Gemmeiza_ | 8 | 47 |Water in pool in khor. A rain pool | | |is passed about 4 miles further _Kilwega_ | 7 | 54 |on, and the villages of Burun from | | |Gum Gum, called Kilwega, are | | |reached. | | | | | |K. Gemmeiza now runs, in a very | | |winding bed, a mile or two to the | | |south of and parallel to the | | |track. A path has been cut to a | | |watering place in the khor, called _Sami_ (K. | 10 | 64 |Sami. Past old burnt village of Gemmeiza) | | |Kurara Buruns, who now occupy | | |village on new road-cultivation | | |here, and water used by people | | |from J. Ulu in dry season. Khor | | |very narrow and covered up with | | |willows; on both sides are swamps. | | |Khor losing traces of sand. Two | | |water holes here could be much | | |improved. | | | | | |From Sami, track cut along high | | |ground until Ulu track is met, | | |going to | | | Khamiret El | 14 | 78 |Khamiret El Tin, about 4 miles Tin | | |off. This is a good track and much | | |used but very tortuous, and | | |follows along ridge of high | | |ground. Before this, at 3rd mile, | | |a track from Ulu to Um Adil on | | |Khor Sami is crossed; this is | | |apparently called Um Ebeil on | | |Pruyssenaere’s route. | | | | | |About one hour from Khamiret El | | |Tin, track leaves khor and goes | | |along a depression in which, later | | |on, the 7 _Hafiras_ of Khamiret El | | |Tin village are. These are roofed- | | |in ponds of marsh water and | | |zeribaed to prevent animals, etc., | | |drinking; water unpleasant; 5 of | | |these now full of water. | | | | | |There are two water holes in Khor | | |Sida, which is the same as Khor | | |Sami, S.W. of village and used by | | |some people who live there. This Khamiret El | 6 | 84 |is better water. From here 6 miles Kurda | | |off is Khamiret El Kurda; people | | |from here now drink at Kumara | | |Hellet Bishara. These villages are | | |under Sheikh Ata Mannan. | | | _Kumara Hellet| 7 | 91 |Khor, after Khamiret El Kurda, as Bishara_ | | |also here, goes into Farashes and | | |is apparently lost. | | | Hellet Bitter | 12 | 103 |From here, 12 miles, general | | |direction S., is Hellet Bitter; | | |water not obtainable here all the | | |year round; people drink at | | |Bishara, etc., according to time | | |of year. | | | Hellet Banjom | 6 | 109 |No water here at present; road bad | | |going. | | | Wad Deluka | 14 | 123 |About 14 miles off, in S.W. | | |direction. Water here in two | | |wells, one has fallen in. | | | Melut | 52 (?) | 175 |On the White Nile. | | (?) | --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 47.—URYONG ON THE SOBAT TO THE WHITE NILE OPPOSITE KODOK. BY MAJOR C. W. GWYNN, C.M.G., D.S.O. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Uryong | — | — |Uryong is a small Dinka village on | | |the right bank. From this point | | |there is a much used short cut | | |straight across to Kodok. The road | | |from Uryong as far as the | | |beginning of the Dunjol villages | | |must be almost entirely under | | |water at high Nile, but even then | | |the Dinkas can find the track, | | |which is marked here and there by | | |small mud heaps. In the dry season | | |from Uryong to Dunjol is generally | | |traversed by night, as there is no | | |water obtainable till the Dunjol | | |wells are reached. From Uryong the | | |road traverses open marsh land for | | |about 2½ miles and then enters a | | |belt of thick white thorn about 3 | | |miles wide. After this the country | | |gets more and more bare, and for | | |the last half of the way to Dunjol | | |there are no trees at all. | | | _Dunjol_ | 31 | 31 |At Dunjol there are a number of | | |Dinka villages which stretch north | | |along a very shallow khor, in | | |which wells are sunk some 30 feet | | |deep in the black clay. They are | | |revetted with grass. | | | | | |The tree belt near the Nile is | | |visible from these villages, and | | |there are many paths leading off | | |it. After following the line of | | |the khor for about 5 miles, the | | |road strikes off towards the Nile _Village_ | 9 | 40 |and passes through a village which | | |draws its water from the Nile, | | |then it turns north again and _Village_ | 6 | 46 |passes through another village | | |before descending into the marsh | | |ground flooded at high Nile. | | | Opposite Kodok| 2 | 48 |The road from Dunjol to this last | | |village is sandy, and would | | |probably be generally dry. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- [Footnote 20: For description, _vide_ Part I, p. 119.] [Footnote 21: In 1904, there was a small village and well at J. Mazmum.] [Footnote 22: A road has been cut (1904) direct from Agadi to Gule.] [Footnote 23: A good deal, if not all, of this wad has been cleared (1904).] CHAPTER VI. (SOUTH-EASTERN SUDAN.) * * * * * 48.—NASSER TO URYONG.[24] BY MAJOR GWYNN, C.M.G., D.S.O., FEBRUARY, 1901. There is a good road in the dry season from Nasser down the Sobat. Practically no supplies can be obtained from natives, but guinea fowl are common and gazelle can generally be shot. There are generally plenty of trees and bush as far as Nyakwoik, but after entering the Dinka country the only trees which are seen are a few grown in the villages for shade. The Dinkas carry charcoal long distances for fuel. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Right bank, | — | — |Starting on right bank, opposite opposite | | |Nasser, the following villages Nasser | | |were passed on the north bank:— | | | Tawba | 9 | 9 | } | | | } Nyakwoik | 3 | 12 | } Small Nuer villages. | | | } Gau | 3 | 15 | } | | | Shillup (1st | 1½ | 16½ |From this point a waterless road camp) | | |strikes straight to Fashoda, 3 | | |days’ march for natives. | | | Ford Kofiat | 2 | 18½ |At Kofiat the river was forded. (Sheikh Akol) | | |About 3 feet deep and 200 yards | | |wide. Exit on south bank bad, but | | |bottom firm and good. The road on | | |the north bank was said to be | | |overgrown, and there was little | | |sign of inhabitants on the south Nyanlang | 3½ | 22 |bank; cutting across a large | | |bend, came to Nyanlang, Fauwel, Fauwel | ½ | 22½ |and Nyandeng; the latter is a | | |small village near a dry shallow Nyandeng (2nd | 3 | 25½ |drainage khor. Thick bush and bad camp) | | |mosquitoes. | | | Minchom | 2¼ | 27¾ |Thence cutting another bend | | |through Minchom, striking the Twednyang | 2¾ | 30½ |river again at Twednyang. | | | Ashol | ½ | 31 |Thence striking across bend | | |through Ashol, to Abong, thence to Abong | 1½ | 32½ |Patiyam, which is the last Nuer | | |village; now enter the Nyuak | | |district of Amol. | | | Patiyam | 1½ | 34 | | | | Gehinyar | 3 | 37 |The first Nyuak village, on the | | |river bank. | | | Reitsum | 2¾ | 39¾ |Thence following the river through | | |dry marsh, strike across bend Malwal (3rd | 3¼ | 43 |through Fedwil. camp) | | | | | | Fedwil | 1¼ | 44¼ |Sheikh Gwat’s. | | | Bwoilbang | ¾ | 45 |To Bwoilbang. | | | Wegin | 2 | 47 |At Wegin reach river again | | |opposite marshy island and keep | | |along bank. | | | Shwai | 2 | 49 |Leave river again at Shwai, and | | |thence to Fatiwanyang, the Fatiwanyang | 3¾ | 52¾ |residence of Sheik Aiwel, who is | | |very friendly to the Government. | | |There are a number of elephant | | |near his village. Leave the river | | |and skirt a swampy district. Some | | |cattle. | | | Yakwoik | 5½ | 58¼ |Yakwoik is a few miles up stream | | |of Major Austin’s base camp, which 4th camp | 1¼ | 59½ |however was not seen. From here | | |strike across a big bend; no water | | |obtainable till river is reached | | |again, after a march of 12 miles. Wangnait (5th | 17 | 76½ | All trees cease near Wangnait, camp), Sheikh | | |which is the 1st Dinka village, Bang | | |and is one of a large group of | | |villages. | | | Gobtoing | 3 | 79½ |Thence cutting across a series of | | |small bends to Gobtoing; thence to | | | Tubu | 3 | 82½ |Tubu, Sheikh Lual’s; thence to | | | Adong | 3½ | 86 |Adong, | | | Dud | 1½ | 87½ |Dud, and | | | Uryong | 2½ | 90 |Uryong. Awut, an old woman, is | | |Sheikha of Uryong. | | | Ford (6th | 1½ | 91½ |There is a ford 1 mile below here. camp) | | |Village at the head of the island, | | |crossing 4 feet deep. | | | Uryong | ½ | 92 |On the opposite bank is the 2nd | | |village of Uryong, from which runs | | |the direct road to Kodok (48 | | |miles), _vide_ Route 47. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 49.—GOKJAK TO KEIK. BY CAPTAIN H. H. WILSON, APRIL AND MAY, 1902. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Gokjak | — | — |Small compact village on left bank | | |of Sobat, good dry banks, few | | |trees. Track from Gokjak runs over | | |open plain, very bad going, black | | |cotton soil; large cracks in | | |ground, making it difficult for | 1½ | 1½ |transport animals. Khor 100 yards | | |wide, running parallel to river, | | |dry in April; track continuous | | |over open grass plain, mostly | | |burnt in dry season, and no trees | | |except one or two solitary ones to | | | _Shol Ajik_ | 7 | 8½ |Small Dinka village on right bank | | |of Khor Filus, which runs from | | |here to its mouth (10 miles from | | |mouth of Sobat); khor dried up | | |into pools, water muddy; few trees | | |in village, also Sheikh’s tomb | | |with huge elephant tusk. The | | |tracks run on to M’Yolga; inland | | |track the better, alternative | | |track follows and passes under | | |large trees for 3 miles; track bad | | |to | | | M’Yolga | 8½ | 17 |Long straggling Dinka villages on | | |Khor Filus, water in pools, fair; | | |many water-fowl. Sheikhs Ayung Yor | | |and Agweir Owawe. Track now winds | | |about the end of M’Yolga district. | | |Two small villages on khor, and 2 | 4 | 21 |miles further on enters bush of | | |red talh, which leaves and crosses | | |grass plain after 1½ miles, and | | |rejoins khor 3 miles further on. | | |_Water available_, banks of khor | | |thickly wooded with thorn bush; a | | |few good trees. | | | | 7 | 28 |Small ferik, or cattle village, in | | |dry season. These feriks are all | | |same type, dome-shaped grass | | |tukls, with open spaces with pegs | | |for picketing cattle, &c. Some | | |have zeribas. | | | _Gekrek_ | 3 | 31 |Name of locality; good camping | | |ground on left of khor, which is | | |easily crossed in dry season; 2 | | |feet of water covered with matted | | |weeds, water fair; ground | | |gradually becoming more wooded; | | |heglig and gemmeiza. | | | Adodit | 2¼ | 33¼ |Name of locality; khor twists | | |about considerably; track cuts | | |across a corner here, and joins | | |khor again after 2 miles, and | | |continues to | | | Biar | 6½ | 39¾ |Name of locality; country between | | |M’Yolga and Nerol uninhabited, | | |being a “no man’s land” between | | |Dinkas and Nuers; men of one tribe | | |crossing to territory of other | | |tribe do not return as a rule. | | | | 4 | 43¾ |Small khor, merely draining few | | |miles of lowlying land in rains. | | | _Fan Yanglwel_| 2¼ | 46 |Name of locality; thickly wooded, | | |with high knolls, good camping | | |ground, water muddy. From here run | | |two tracks; one to Nerol, along | | |the khor; a second across country | | |to Riul. Latter track crosses khor | 1 | 47 |Fanyanglwel and runs along left | | |bank of khor for 3 miles, passing | | |one ferik at 47th mile, and then | | |cuts across an open plain with few | | |scattered trees, and meets Khor | | |Filus at Riul. | | | | | |The former track runs through | | |beautiful country along bank of | | |Khor Filus; thickly wooded, | | |waterfowl in abundance, also | | |harte-beest (Tiang) and Oribi; a | | |little water in places, in the | | |khor, under matted reeds. Khor | | |very winding to Nerol (9 miles). | | |Cattle feriks on R. bank of khor; | | |fine sheet of water (some 2 miles | | |long in places) 50 to 60 yards | | |wide, and in places deep; good | | |colour and taste. Village of Nerol | | |about 6 miles due south, according | | |to guides; at bend of Khor Filus, | | |at mile 10, Khor Chirol or Nerol | | |flows in, said to flow from Nyang | | |Deng on Sobat, near Nasser, 30 to | | |40 yards wide, nearly dry (April). | | |Track now runs along khor straight | | |to Riul, 5½ miles further on. | | | Riul | 6¾ | 53¾ |A cattle ferik on right bank of | | |khor, village proper lies two | | |miles inland due south, behind | | |thick belt of trees. | | | Tut | 2¼ | 56 |Cattle ferik under good shady | | |trees, village proper inland | 2¼ | 58¼ |behind trees; good camping ground; | | |thick thorn bush ¼ mile on left of | | |track; good pool of water in khor, | | |400 yards from camp, which is on | | |rising ground, no trees for shade. | | | Meinom | 2¼ | 60½ |Cattle ferik, and village inland | | |is visible. | | | | 1 | 61½ |Another large cattle ferik, also | | |rest of Meinom village proper | | |visible inland; track now runs | 7 | 68½ |straight for 7 miles, passing | | |feriks of Riang and Reir on the | | |way to small khor; country thickly | | |wooded on left of track, thinly on | | |right. | | | _Fading_ | 3½ | 72 |Important scattered Nuer village | | |in trees on right of khor; large | | |pool of water, surrounded towards | | |its northern end by ambach swamp, | | |many and varied waterfowl; a track | 1½ | 73½ |runs from here to large village of | | |Falliu, distant 7 miles S.W. in | | |forest; water fair at Fading; | | |cattle ferik and pool, with ambach | | |fringe round edge, water bad. | | | _Fatowel_ | 4 | 77½ |Three cattle feriks of this name | | |on khor; several pools of stagnant | | |water; track crosses open plain 1 | | |mile wide, and then for 7 miles | | |runs through forest of Inderab, | | |along bed of khor, crossing and | | |re-crossing it, forest then thins | | |out, and next 4 miles is over | | |grass plain to | | | _Shit_ | 12½ | 90 |Large cattle feriks, village | | |proper 2 miles away S.W. on left | | |bank of khor; large pool of very | | |foul stagnant water. No other | | |water nearer than 3 miles fit to | | |drink. Ambach swamp round water, | | |waterfowl plentiful. | | | | 3 | 93 |Track runs 3 miles across open | | |grass plain, over good sandy | | |track, and enters this red talh | | |bush, which gives place shortly to | | |thin forest of heglig; large | | |trees. | | | Fulnob | 3 | 96 |Long straggling village on left of | | |track, fair amount of dura | | |cultivation. | | | Dwok | 4½ | 100½ |A very large scattered village, | | |well built tukls; cattle tukls | | |being particularly fine; most of | | |these Nuer villages are built in | | |thin forest, making it impossible | | |to estimate their full extent | | |without penetrating long distances | | |into the woods. | | | _Amwot-el- | 4½ | 105 |Beginning of Little Amwot. Two or Sogheir_ | | |three shallow muddy wells; few | | |trees; track now runs across Amwot | | |plain, thickly populated; tukls in | | |groups; probably homesteads every | | |few hundred yards for 4 miles to | | |the wells. | | | _Wells of | 4 | 109 |Dug on sandy bank of a large Amwot-el- | | |shallow khor; khor dry in April. Sogheir_ | | |Banks lined with um suf; cattle | | |ferik on edge of khor; wells 12 in | | |number, 20 feet to 25 feet deep, 2 | | |feet 6 inches in diameter; fairly | | |thick forest of abu hemeira and | | |trees called soba and leun. | | |Leaving Amwot wells, track enters | | |thick forest, which extends for 2 | | |miles, then continues over plain | | |for another 2 miles, finally runs | | |through very thin forest to | | | Keik | 6½ | 115½ |Residence of Nuer Sheikh Denkur; | | |in centre of village is a cone, | | |built of mud, 50 to 60 feet high, | | |seen at least 3 miles off, | | |surmounted with elephants’ tusks, | | |and a huge spike like a lightning | | |conductor; base of cone on east | | |sides planted with elephants’ | | |tusks, with points turned | | |outwards. | | | | | |Fair amount of dura cultivation; | | |beyond village of Keik, to N.E. | | |and S., is a vast open plain with | | |no trees; no wells or other water | | |found; ground is fairly high and | | |presumably healthy. | | | Shit | — | 90 |From Shit, which is 90 miles from | | |Gokjak, a track runs almost due | | |south, crossing Khor Filus; good | | |going. | | | | 1½ | 91½ |Village proper of Shit about 1 | | |mile away on left bank of khor in | | |thick trees. | | | | 1½ | 93 |Group of 6 _wells_ dug in bed of | | |khor; cattle ferik on right bank | | |of khor; cattle watered from these | | |wells; water when drawn up poured | | |into shallow circular troughs of | 1 | 94 |puddled sand and mud, to enable | | |cattle to drink. Another similar | 1 | 95 |_group of wells_; track branches | | |off to right, to small village, | | |part of Amwot-el-Kebir, 2½ miles | | |distant. Track now runs along bed | | |of khor. | | | _Amwot-el- | 3¼ | 98½ |Filus, to beginning of Amwot-el- Kebir_ | | |Kebir, in line of trees running | | |north and south; track now | | |descends across plain and crosses | | |khor to main portion of village. | 3½ | 101½ |Villages of great extent, part | | |built in plain, but greater part | | |(impossible to estimate) built in | | |woods; tukls well built and very | | |numerous; much dura cultivation; | | |_group of wells_. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- NOTE.—No local Nuer guides can be obtained for any of the above country from M’Yolga to Keik, owing to the active hostility of Nuers. The only men who know the general lie of the country are Dinkas who have been slaves of Nuers, or who lived in this country before Nuers seized it. They can be obtained at M’Yolga, but, at the best, are not reliable as regards water or distances. 50.—ITINERARY UP THE BAHR EL ZERAF. BY MAJOR STANTON, OCTOBER, 1898—ADDITIONS BY LIEUTENANT-COLONEL SPARKES, C.M.G., MARCH, 1899. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- | — | — |On entering the Bahr el Zeraf, the | | |current is strong[25]—3 miles an | | |hour—the depth 20 feet, and | | |channel narrow at first; opens out | | |from 30 yards to 80 yards a couple | | |of miles up. Water is clear, and | | |of a dark brown tinge. Jebel el | | |Zeraf lies away to the south-east | | |on R. bank 5 miles off; there are | | |four distinct hills, all of | | |volcanic rock, covered with bush. | | |A broad open plain, marsh near the | | |river, extends to the foot of | | |these hills R., while L. is wooded | | |and scrub—open plain behind; here | | |hippopotami, elephant, giraffe, | | |water-buck, and reed-buck have | | |been seen. | | | | 5½ | 5½ |Grass plain both banks, with a | | |little low scrub L. From here on | | |to 30, flat marshy plain both | | |banks. | | | | 24½ | 30 |Wood obtainable; some large trees | | |L. bank, dry marsh R. | | | | 5 | 35 |Bush commences both banks; river | | |bends backwards and forwards, | | |banks wet and marshy, and landing | | |difficult. This continues till 60. | | | | 10 | 45 |Dry place L. | | | | 15 | 60 |Large open maya L. Water runs | | |inland some distance. River | | |continues to make loops and bends; | | |channel 80 to 100 yards broad. | | | | 10 | 70 |Scrub ceases both banks, boundless | | |marsh extending to horizon opens | | |up; several large sheets of open | | |water are passed. | | | | 8 | 78 |Farthest point reached by Major | | |Peake, 5.10.98. Egyptian flag | | |hoisted L. 14¾ hours’ steam from | | |mouth of river. River 80 yards | | |wide; current 2 miles per hour. | | | Kuchuk Ali (?)| 2 | 80 |River bends about a great deal; | | |some of the curves are very sharp; | | |patches of open water each side at | | |intervals; open marsh both sides | | |with 3 to 4 feet of water. Twenty | | |hours’ steam from mouth. | | | | 2 | 82 |Solitary small Dom palm passed on | | |R. | | | | 3 | 85 |Clump of thick small trees R. in 3 | | |feet of water close to channel; | | |thousands of divers build in these | | |trees (October, 1898). Wood for | | |steamers could be cut here, but | | |with some difficulty, unless the | | |water falls; scrub begins first | | |beyond here on L. bank. R. | | |continues open. | | | | 12 | 97 |Large sheet of open water or maya | | |about 1 mile away R.; bush on | | |horizon beyond. | | | | 3 | 100 |Low scrub ½ mile away R. Big trees | | |on horizon west L. | | | Gauer (?) | 10 | 110 |Scattered Nuer houses seen on | | |horizon 6 miles away L.; village 2 | | |miles farther on under trees | | |believed to be village of Gauer. | | |Open plain R. Small clump of trees | | |in water at 107, where wood could | | |be obtained if necessary. Shallows | | |sometimes to 4 feet; generally 10 | | |feet. | | | | 10 | 120 |Trees close to channel L.; open | | |patches of water. | | | | 2 | 122 |Maya and stream comes in L.; this | | |leaves the proper channel at 130 | | |higher up, and cuts across a | | |corner direct. | | | | 5 | 127 |Thick trees L. and clump of trees | | |R., all in water (October); sharp | | |turn west. | | | | 3 | 130 |Channel turns again S. Maya and | | |stream come in L. Solitary palm | | |visible S. R. bank open marsh, | | |bush ends L. | | | | 5 | 135 |Solitary Dom palm passed on edge | | |of channel L., marsh both banks, | | |trees and scrub begin again L. | | | | 5 | 140 |River bends west. Dom palms | | |visible west. | | | | 4 | 144 |Sparkes’ farthest point in | | |steamer: aground. | | | Kuchuk Ali | 4 | 148 |“Lotus” River comes in R.; channel | | |50 yards, covered with large | | |“Lotus Nymphæ.” Good wood station | | |here just inside the mouth of | | |“Lotus” River, where dry land can | | |be reached by steamer. Wood | | |extends back in water for 2 or 3 | | |miles, but sufficient can be cut | | |on dry ground. This is the last | | |place where steamers can wood, as | | |all other wood seen, being either | | |Dom or Deleib palm, is useless for | | |fuel. “Lotus” River dried up in | | |March. | | | | | |Zeraf turns west towards thick Dom | | |palms; open water seen N.W. From | | |here on the channel goes through | | |numerous lagoons; the water | | |appears slightly discoloured by | | |mud; the stream increases in | | |strength, and the channel in | | |width. | | | | 3 | 151 |Sharp bend S.; large volume of | | |water flows out of channel into | | |marsh N., and makes open mayas | | |seen about 1 to 1½ miles away. Dom | | |palms, close to river, dry ground | | |1 mile farther on L., thick Dom | | |palms; channel 100 to 150 yards | | |broad, numerous lagoons. Scrub and | | |wood 1 mile away R. | | | Kuek | 8 | 159 |Small village on edge of lagoons, | | |larger one behind under Dom palms, | | |known as Kuek; natives Dinkas, and | | |friendly. Egyptian flag left here | | |with them; natives frightened by | | |steamer, but reassured afterwards. | | |After passing their village the | | |regular channel gets lost as it | | |flows to the west of clump of Dom | | |behind Kuek, where it gets blocked | | |by sudd, the water finding its way | | |through the marsh and lagoons. The | | |“Abu Klea” continued (October, | | |1898) in a southerly direction, | | |and after crossing a lagoon 11 | | |feet deep, which shallowed down to | | |4 feet, the main channel again | | |struck, 18 feet deep. | | | Wayo | — | — |Wayo village, Nuers, Sheikh Atar, | | |close by. No Dinkas round this | | |way. Left here by a narrow passage | | |through the reeds, and joined what | | |is evidently the main river, 80 to | | |100 yards broad and very deep | | |channel. It comes in from other | | |side of villages, and natives say | | |it is blocked by sudd lower down. | | |This channel through which neither | | |steamer or gyassa could get is | | |evidently that mentioned by Peake, | | |between 150 and 160 miles, which | | |he went through, and which was | | |only 5 feet deep. It is now just | | |over 2 feet deep. | | | Mogren el | 3 | 161 |Junction of the rivers Zeraf. One Buhur Zeraf | | |channel comes in from S.E., which | | |ends 6 miles up in a large open | | |lake 9 feet deep, and with | | |numerous villages scattered about | | |on bits of dry ground surrounded | | |by a sea of marsh and sudd. | | | | | |The Bahr el Jebel is stated to be | | |only a few hours in a canoe (about | | |6) through the reeds in westerly | | |direction. It is stated to be | | |blocked N. of this point. | | | | | |The second channel comes in from a | | |southerly direction going up- | | |stream, after bending a good deal, | | |passes an old tree like an English | | |elm near two small villages, and | | |flows close by large village of | | |Ajiung. Nuer tribe here; Sultan | | |Diu, the head of the Nuers in this | | |locality, resides here. Large | | |clump of Deleib palms, 500 yards | | |from channel. | | | Ajiung Lake | 14 | 175 |Ajiung village R. Large village | | |under Deleib palms. Lat. 7° 48′ N. | | |(approximate). Large straggling | | |lake; sudd S., S.W., and S.E. | | | | 13 | 188 |Channel goes on another 13 miles, | | [26] |then ends in 3 feet of water on | | |large sudd-covered lake. A large | | |maya goes off N.E., which is | | |declared closed about 5 miles up; | | |this water probably forms the | | |River “Lotus” farther down. If it | | |is intended to go from the Bahr el | | |Zeraf to the Bahr el Jebel, | | |natives should be got from Ajiung | | |to direct the course, which lies | | |entirely through patches of sudd | | |and open water. The direction | | |marked on the map should be | | |somewhat more towards the north. | | |The channel at Ajiung, which is | | |broad and deep, soon narrows, and | | |current becomes less as the head | | |is reached, clearly showing that a | | |great deal of the water in the | | |channel at Ajiung flows through | | |the reeds and sudd, where the | | |depth appears to be about 4 feet. | | |The whole country S. and S.W. of | | |Ajiung appears to be one vast | | |sudd-covered lagoon through which | | |the waters forming the Bahr el | | |Zeraf flow until the main channel | | |is formed; pieces of sudd | | |measuring 40 yards by 30 were met | | |after a severe storm in the | | |western branch. Such pieces of | | |sudd are liable at any time to | | |block the present channel and | | |cause a fresh one to open out. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- [Footnote 24: _Vide_ also Route 134, Goré to Abwong, Appendix.] [Footnote 25: Even in March.] [Footnote 26: Major G. E. Matthews steamed up about 30 miles beyond this point in August, 1904, but was then stopped by sudd.] CHAPTER VII. (BAHR EL GHAZAL.) * * * * * 51.—MESHRA EL REK TO TONJ. BY CAPTAIN H. D. W. LLOYD, JANUARY, 1904. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Meshra El Rek | — | — |Leaving the Nuzl, the track | | |crosses a khor some 15 feet deep, | | |by a bridge partly under water. | | |After 100 yards bridge ends and | | |you wade waist deep for 3 miles. | | | _Camp_ | 3½ | 3½ |Always dry, but mosquitoes very | | |bad. Good water all the year | | |round. Very bad track leading due | | |S. between grass 7 feet high. | | |Ground much cut up by cattle | | |passing in the rains. | | | Unangarp | 7½ | 11 |A few Dinka tukls; no supplies N. | | |boundary of Lau district. Head | | |Sheikh Kwitol. | | | _Manashin_ | 2 | 13 |Water holes, which are said never | | |to dry up completely, situated on | | |W. of track. Good camp, well | | |marked by a deleib growing out of | | |centre of gemmeiza tree on track. | | |No supplies. | | | | | |Track continues nearly due S., | | |winds a great deal, and much cut | | |up. Bad going for man and beast. | | | _War Lai_ | 6¾ | 19¾ |A swamp, 300 yards W. of track. It | | |is said never to dry up; 300 by | | |200 yards. Fair drinking water. | | |Animals easily watered by digging | | |trenches. | | | _Fulbar_ | 6 | 25¾ |Road through an open forest, grass | | |lately burnt. Track better, but | | |much broken in places by old | | |elephant tracks. Fulbar is a large | | |swamp, said never to dry up. Many | | |elephant tracks. Good water. | | | | | |Leaving the pool, the track joins | | |the main road a mile on. Fair | | |track. | | | _Amangnok_ | 7 | 32¾ |A large swamp, good water, lasts | | |all the year, on W. of track, | | |which goes S. to Marra Alangjok, | | |passing the village of Sheikh | | |Angong Marial. | | | Mana Alangjok | — | — |A large Dinka cattle enclosure, | | |well-known throughout this | | |district. | | | _War Gel_ | 7 | 39¾ |Pools in a swamp. Water said to | | |last all the year. Bad shade. | | |Half-a mile on Sheikh Tioing’s | | |house is passed on the N. of the | | |road, and Sheikh Malwal Mabior’s | | |village over a mile long is left | | |to the W. | | | _Haleik_ | 7 | 46¾ |A swamp, left to W. of road, water | | |said to last all the year. Track | | |generally good, but cut up by | | |elephants in places. Sheikh Wal | | |Mabior’s village is entered 2 | | |miles from Ateim swamp. | | | _Wal Mabior’s,| 5 | 51¾ |A mile wide from E. to W., and 1½ or Ateim_ | | |miles from N. to S. Very good and | | |plentiful water. | | | _Mowok_ | 2 | 53¾ |A swamp 1 mile E. of road. Very | | |good track through open country. | | |Heglig trees and little bush. | | | _Mabior Dod’s_| 2 | 55¾ |Large swamps. Good water; called | | |Katoi. Fair shade. Good track | | |through rather open and perfectly | | |level country. Soil sandy in | | |places. | | | _Again Well, | 5 | 60¾ |Small water holes, little water. Ewal Gor’s_ | | |There is a good deal of | | |cultivation about, and Dinka huts | | |every few hundred yards. | | | _Sheikh Bak | 4 | 64¾ |Four bad and one good water holes. Bong Yep’s_ | | |Latter known as Abaing, after a | | |small tree near it; watered 200 | | |men easily. The four other holes | | |just satisfied 100 donkeys. Fair | | |shade. Obtained some dura. | | | _Teing Teing | 1 | 65¾ |One fair well, or rather hole; well_ | | |water for 30 or 40 men. Good going | | |on the whole. | | | “Dug-Dug” | 4 | 69¾ |Site of an old cattle enclosure, (ruins) | | |marked by some mounds of earth and | | |some usher bushes. | | | _Atubbu_ | 11 | 80¾ |One water hole; dirty water, but | | |enough to give 200 men a drink. | | | _Aweid_ | 2 | 82¾ |A small swamp, but plenty of fair | | |water. Fair shade under heglig | | |trees. Track passes across an open | | |plain covered with grass, which in | | |places is 10 feet high. Few trees, | | |but trees of the Tonj valley seen | | |in the distance to the S. Bad | | |going for first 3 miles, then very | | |good. | | | Atang’s (N. | 4¼ | 87 |The direct road to Tonj Post leads end) | | |to the W.S.W. Another, down a | | |khor, in which are several water- _R. Tonj_ | 3 | 90 |holes strikes the River Tonj. | | |Small camp on left bank. The river | | |bed is 65 yards wide and 15 feet | | |deep. Water 25 yards wide and 18 | | |inches deep. Good water; sandy | | |bottom. No mosquitoes. | | | | | |Leaving the river the track for 3 | | |miles goes through long grass, | | |then crosses a plain; grass at | | |first, then covered with grass and | | |bush. | | | _Abuior Sheikh| 9 | 99 |A small water hole (War Rual) on Maton’s and | | |W. of track at N. end of Sheikh War Rual_ | | |Matoin’s village (Abui). There are | | |a few more wells to the W., but | | |the best water is a mile to the E. | | |in a swamp. Good shade near road. | | | _War Tit_ | 2 | 101 |A pool 50 by 30 yards, now dry. | | |There is a small water hole near | | |the road. | | | | | |Very good track through bush, with | | |many large trees, until within a | | |mile of the river, when a belt of | | |forest is entered. | | | Tonj River | 5 | 106 | Post | | | --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- A great part of the above road is under water during the rains, and only passable to carriers. 52.—WAU TO MESHRA EL REK. BY CAPTAIN H. D. W. LLOYD, MARCH, 1904. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- | | |The following is the Government | | |route and is used by all convoys:— | | | Wau | — | — |Crossing the river Jur, the track | | |enters high grass for a mile until | | |the E. side of the valley is | | |reached. Then thick bush and | | |ironstone ridges. | | | _Sheikh | 4 | 4 |Rest house and well 150 yards S. Malwal’s new | | |of track. Track continues over village (Jur)_| | |ironstone ridges, but bush is much | | |more open near the track. | | | _P. Rumbashia_| 5¾ | 9¾ |A rain pool 30 yards by 20 yards; | | |3 feet 6 inches deep when full; | | |now contains 18 inches water. | | |Halting place for bull transport. | | |A quarter-mile on there are 3 more | | |small pools in the rock. | | | _Sheikh | 1¼ | 11 |Jur name Rurruish. Rest house, 2 Malwal’s old | | |tukls, 1 shelter, and good well. village (Jur)_| | |Water trough. Bush now becomes | | |thick; many deserted villages | | |passed. | | | _Sheikh | 12 | 23 |So called, but he has now moved Moyen’s | | |some way N. of the road, rest (Dinka)_ | | |house, 2 tukls, 2 sheds, and 1 | | |rekuba. Well with good water. The | | |ironstone formation is left. | | | | | |Track over level plain, now dry | | |and covered with high grass, would | | |be very wet in rains. A few Dinka | | |houses are seen, many deserted | | |ones passed. | | | _Water hole_ | 9½ | 32½ |Six feet deep, 8 feet in diameter, | | |good, but much discoloured water. | | |Used by Aiyum’s people. | | | _Sheikh | 2½ | 35 |Extensive Dinka village chiefly N. Aiyum’s | | |of road. Rest house, 2 tukls, 2 (Dinka)_ | | |shelters, and large tukl for the | | |bull transport. | | | | | |Open grass-covered plain with | | |scattered trees. Swampy in rains. | | |Mosquitoes troublesome. | | | _Bir El Jaalin| 7 | 42 |Old wells in clump of deleib (Arab), Malau | | |palms, site of old village. (Dinka)_ | | | | | | _Deleiba_ | 8 | 50 |Rest house, 3 tukls, 1 bad well; | | |water gave out after 30 men had | | |drawn their water, but well | | |refills quickly. Many deleib | | |palms. Mosquitoes. | | | | | |Track winds to avoid the bush, | | |which is thick some 200 yards away | | |from the track W. | | | “_Dug-Dug_” | 5 | 55 |Rest house, Dinka name Noi. 3 | | |tukls and 2 good wells. | | | | | |Track again winds about to avoid | | |the thick bush. Very thick grass | | |in places. | | | _Bir El Gurud_| 6 | 61 |Rest house, 3 tukls. Two wells | | |(one now dry), 8 feet deep. Good, | | |but muddy water. After passing | | |through a belt of bush 300 yards | | |wide the country becomes perfectly | | |flat and open. Covered with high | | |grass and scattered trees. Little | | |bush anywhere. The going is bad as | | |the track from here to Meshra. is | | |mostly under water during the | | |rains. | | | _Old wells | 7½ | 68½ |Could not obtain name. A well- near single | | |known place and site of old Dinka deleib palm_ | | |village. | | | _Sheikh | 3½ | 72 |So called. Sheikh Bok is the chief Gadein’s_ | | |man. A large village. Rest house, | | |2 good tukls, 1 shelter. Good | | |water from wells. Depôt for bull | | |transport. Road and country as | | |before. | | | _Gemmeiza | 9 | 81 |Well-known halting place, as there tree_ | | |is a pool 50 yards in diameter | | |which holds water for some 6 or 8 | | |weeks after the rains. | | | _Rest house W.| 6 | 87 |Two tukls and shelter under end of Sheikh | | |gemmeiza tree. Wells dry 13th Mayik’s | | |March, 1904. Route winds much village_ | | |through the village. | | | _Rest house E.| 5½ | 92½ |Two tukls, 1 shelter under a end of Sheikh | | |single deleib palm. One well 15 Mayik’s | | |feet deep, 8 feet in diameter, 3 village | | |feet of good clear water. No (Dinka)_ | | |people seen; they are said to have | | |gone down to the river with their | | |cattle. | | | | | |Country good, level, and open as | | |before; but track somewhat better. | | | | | |Three miles from the rest house | | |there is a water hole 50 yards S. | | |of track near a small deleib palm, | | |8 feet deep, 10 feet in diameter; | | |good water. | | | _Sheikh | 9 | 101½ |Rest house at W. end of village; 3 Madal’s | | |good tukls, 1 shelter, good well. (Dinka)_ | | |Dinka name of well Atien ful. The | | |native houses are chiefly on the | | |N. side of the wood and ½ a mile | | |away. | | | _War Kul_ | 4¾ | 106¼ |(War = pool) Pool 20 yards by 10 | | |yards. Good water situated in a | | |swamp now dry. There is a clump of | | |bush on higher ground 100 yards | | |N., which would be a dry spot for | | |a camp. | | | _Sheikh | 1¾ | 108 |Rest house. Two tukls and well, at Amien’s | | |W. end of village which is (Dinka)_ | | |scattered along the route for 3 | | |miles. Road has been cleared in | | |the village and ruts caused by | | |traffic in rains filled up. The | | |going then becomes bad. Black | | |soil; grass, and a few scattered | | |trees. Three miles from Meshra, | | |high grass and a swamp is entered. | | |Going very bad and water waist- | | |deep in places. Close to the Nuzl | | |a khor is crossed by a bridge, but | | |it is now 2 feet 6 inches under | | |water. | | | _Meshra El | 11 | 119 | Rek_ | | | --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 53.—TONJ POST TO WAU. BY CAPTAIN H. D. W. LLOYD, FEBRUARY, 1904. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- | | |The whole of this road is over | | |ironstone ridges, except where it | | |is crossed by khors. The going is | | |good and in many places the bush | | |has been cleared. It is proposed | | |to clear a route from Tonj Post, | | |_viâ_ Jur Ghatas to Kawagana, and | | |thence follow this route to Wau. | | | | | |There was sufficient water | | |everywhere in February, 1904, | | |along this route for 300 men and | | |100 mules. | | | Tonj Post | — | — |The route follows the left bank of | | |the river Ba, at first, to Morgan | | |Bongo’s house, and thence bears | | |slightly N. of W. Good track, but | | |thick bush, and grass on both | | |sides until within a mile of | | |Aiidu’s wells, when cultivation is | | |entered. | | | _Sheikh | 10 | 10 |A small Jur village, to W. of Aiidu’s_ | | |which is the rest house; 2 good | | |tukls. Good water from wells. | | | | | |Track continues through thick bush | | |and grass, crossing some grass | | |covered swamps, now dry. | | |Ironstone, good going. A mile from | | |the next rest house the track | | |descends a steep bank, 81 feet | | |high, and crosses a small khor. | | | _River house | 8½ | 18½ |On right bank. One good hut, but at River | | |little shade near. Water from Mulmul_ | | |pools in bed of river. The track | | |now crosses the valley of the | | |River Mulmul, which is flat, | | |covered with thick grass, and very | | |swampy in the rains. There is a | | |khor on the left bank of valley, | | |and some wells 2 feet deep. Good | | |and plentiful water. Route passes | | |through Sheikh Agan’s village and | | |over a stony ridge to the rest | | |house. | | | Rest house, | 4½ | 23 |The village is called Mudi. Two _Sheikh | | |good tukls. Water from wells in Agan’s_ (Jur) | | |River Mulmul. | | | | | |Good track, but much high grass. | | | _Sheikh | 3½ | 26½ |A small village with little Arum’s_ | | |cultivation. Two tukls for rest (Bilanda) | | |house. Road now winds a good deal | | |through high grass and bush, and | | |crosses several places that are | | |swampy in the rains. | | | _Sheikh | 6½ | 33 |Rest house of 2 tukls and a Akuong_ (Jur) | | |rekuba; water from well. | | | _Munga well_ | 2½ | 35½ |There is a small rekuba on N. of | | |road. The wells are 300 yards S., | | |and consist of 3 holes 4 feet deep | | |with 2 feet of good water, which | | |flows in quickly. Full of frogs. | | |Immediately beyond cultivation and | | |the village commence. | | | _Sheikh | 1½ | 37 |Rest house is at N. end of Kangor’s_ | | |village. Four tukls, water from | | |Manga well. Bush and high grass. | | |Route crosses one place that must | | |be very wet in the rains. | | | _Kawagana_ | 3½ | 40½ |A rock-pool 60 yards by 25 yards, | | |and 2 feet 6 inches deep. Good | | |clean water, said to last all the | | |year. Rain water; no spring. Two | | |tukls, bush thick. The direct road | | |from Tonj Post, _viâ_ Jur Ghatas, | | |comes in here. | | | Khor | 4 | 44½ |300 yards wide and 30 feet deep, | | |ironstone sides; no water. Only 80 | | |yards show signs of being swampy | | |in the rains. Track crosses | | |another khor and then ascends a | | |ridge (60 feet) which it follows | | |for 2 miles and then descends into | | |Khor Mbili, where there is a rest | | |house with ghafir. | | | Rest house in | 4 | 48½ |Three tukls. Water from wells in _Khor Mbili_ | | |khor. Road has been cleared for 2 | | |miles on each side. | | | Khor Tala | 3 | 51½ |20 yards wide and 10 feet deep, | | |bridged. Route now ascends an | | |ironstone ridge for a mile and | | |then winds round it. Wide valley | | |to the E., with deleib palms. 3¼ | | |miles from next rest-house there | | |is a steep ascent of 50 feet. Bad | | |going. The track then crosses | | |greyish soil for a mile and again | | |passes over ironstone rock. | | | Rest house, | 9 | 60½ |Eight tukls (4 old). Many deleib “The | | |palms about. Good water from _Deleib’s_” | | |wells. For the next 3 miles there | | |is thick bush. The grassy valley | | |of the Khor Abongo is then struck. | | | _Khor Abongo_ | 4 | 64½ |Khor which is 20 yards wide and 10 | | |feet deep, bridged. The river Jur | | |is now to the W. of the track | | |which follows its right bank, | | |between the high grass which | | |covers the valley and an ironstone | | |ridge 30 to 50 feet high, covered | | |with very thick bush. Wau is seen | | |on the left bank. | | | | | |East of Wau the track crosses the | | |valley (1 mile wide) through very | | |high grass. The river Jur here is | | |on the W. side of the valley, 100 | | |yards wide with banks from 15 to | | |20 feet high. On 3rd February, | | |1904, there was 2 feet 9 inches | | |water in the ford. Sandy bottom. | | | Wau | 5½ | 70 | --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 54.—TONJ TO RIKTA’S VILLAGE. BY CAPTAIN H. D. W. LLOYD, FEBRUARY, 1904. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- | | |There is no obstacle on this route | | |to the movement of men, mules or | | |donkeys, during the dry season. | | |But a very little rain would make | | |many of the khors impassable to | | |animals. The river Ba during the | | |rains would have to be crossed in | | |boats. There was ample water for | | |500 men and 300 mules or donkeys. | | |The route lies chiefly over | | |ironstone rock, with black | | |alluvial soil in and near the | | |khors. | | | Tonj River | — | — |Leaving the fort the road follows Post | | |the left bank of the river Ba; | | |good track. | | | Khor | 3 | 3 |20 yards wide, 5 feet deep, muddy | | |bottom, if not bridged would be a | | |serious obstacle. Track skirts the | | |forest. | | | River Ba | 3 | 6 |The actual valley is 1½ miles | | |wide, alluvial soil covered with | | |grass 6 to 8 feet high, now dry. | | |The river channel 75 yards wide, | | |12 feet deep, and has been bank | | |full of water this year. Water in | | |January 30 yards wide, 20 inches | | |deep, sandy bottom. No difficulty | | |in ascending banks. | | | | | |There is now a slight track only. | | |The route followed the edge of the | | |forest on the right bank of the | | |river Ba. Good going, but the | | |khors running into the river would | | |be difficult after rain. Water for | | |drinking obtained from khors. | | | 13th mile | 7 | 13 |Route leaves valley of river Ba | | |and follows the right bank of Khor | | |Sunni. Good going, khor from 50 to | | |1000 yards from route which | | |followed the edge of the forest. | | |Bush seldom very thick, but grass | | |troublesome in places. | | | Pool Dam Lkobo| 20½ | 33½ |Route crosses to left bank of Khor | | |Sunni 20 feet deep, 3 yards wide | | |at bottom, 25 yards wide at top; | | |running water 6 inches deep. | | | Pool Gutti | 2 | 35½ |Large pool in khor, said never to | | |dry up. Guide was not very sure of | | |name, but place unmistakable. Bare | | |ironstone running from edge of | | |forest to khor. Running water now | | |ceases and the only water is in | | |pools. | | | | | |Route crosses several shallow but | | |wide khors full of elephant | | |tracks; high grass. | | | Da Kobi | 12 | 47½ |(Called by another guide, Akkuir). | | |Da = pool in Bongo. Dirty water | | |but quite drinkable. | | | Pool Dormunga | 6½ | 54 |Pool 100 yards long in khor, very | | |good water. Good shade near; road | | |crosses several ironstone ridges | | |and some low ground now dry, but | | |would be very swampy in rains. | | | Pool Higoli | 7½ | 61½ |Pool in khor. Good water. Good | | |going but thick bush. | | | Pool Kunga | 44¾ | 66¼ |Pool in a khor running into Khor | | |Sunni, 80 yards in diameter, good | | |clean water. Said always to | | |contain water. | | | Minobolo | 4¾ | 71 |Two miles before reaching | | |Minobolo, two deleib palms are | | |seen and the track crosses a small | | |khor. For 1½ miles this khor | | |contains a succession of pools. | | |Minobolo is the site of an old | | |slave dealers’ zeriba, 30 feet | | |above khor. Water said to last all | | |the year. | | | | | |The route follows the Khor Sunni, | | |crossing it twice and passing | | |several small pools. | | | Pool Riggu | 8 | 79 |In the midst of many deleib palms, | | |good water. Much game about. This | | |is the last pool on the Khor | | |Sunni. | | | | | |The country now rises slowly until | | |the route passes between two red | | |ironstone hills (rising 100 feet | | |above the track) covered with | | |bush. The route then descends and | | |enters the valley of the Khor | | |Takor which flows S.W. to the | | |river Ba. | | | Toko | 5½ | 84½ |Pool of good water; said to last | | |all the year. | | | Da Higi | 2½ | 87 |Pool of good water; said to last | | |all the year. Site of old Bongo | | |village. Route now follows right | | |bank. Good going. | | | Ungulu | 2¼ | 89¼ |Pool in khor; drying up rapidly in | | |February. Route crosses to left | | |bank, and a mile on there is a | | |large grey granite rock 30 feet | | |high, 50 yards in diameter. | | | Mungola | 2¾ | 93 |Pool in khor; said never to dry | | |up. Good water; some bad going due | | |to elephant tracks. | | | Dih | 3 | 96 |Several large pools which are said | | |never to dry up. Good shade. | | | | | |From here to Higola pool there are | | |two routes, an eastern and a | | |western. The former is the better | | |going but the latter has more | | |water on it. | | | | | | WESTERN ROUTE. | | | | | |Follows the Khor Takor for 2 | | |miles, then turns S., crosses the | | |Khor Teih at the Pool Ngomala, and | | |half a mile on enters valley of | | |the Khor Biuku, which flows | | |northwards and westwards to River | | |Ba; much bush and grass. Three | | |miles from Ngomala, route crosses | | |khor; rocky ground, bad going. | | |After 7 miles, Angaga, a pool in | | |Khor Biuku, is reached. Water said | | |to be dry up; much high grass. A | | |mile S., route again crosses the | | |khor and ascends an ironstone | | |ridge, which it follows for 5 | | |miles; good going; to Higola 5½ | | |miles, a pool fed by a spring, | | |situated on E. side of ridge in | | |the Khor Todor. | | | | | | EASTERN ROUTE. | | | | | |Route goes nearly S.E. for 2½ | | |miles, then turns lightly W. of S. | | | Khor Teih | 2½ | 98½ |Now nearly dry. One or two small | | |dirty pools. Khor 20 yards wide, 8 | | |feet deep, steep banks. Flows W. | | |to River Ba. A mile and a half on | | |the Khor Todor is seen E. of route | | |which follows the left bank to | | |Higola. Good going skirting the | | |bush. Valley of khor full of high | | |grass. The Khor Todor flows | | |northwards into the Khor Teih. | | | Higola | 5½ | 107 |Bad going for first 2 miles, | | |ascending a rocky ironstone ridge. | | |Thick bush. Then along the level | | |for 2 miles, when the end of the | | |ridge is reached. There is then a | | |rapid but easy descent of nearly | | |200 feet to the Khor Veitatei. | | |Route followed right bank to the | | |River Ba, but it is better to | | |cross the khor from 1 to 2 miles | | |before reaching the river. | | | River Ba | 11 | 118 |Forty yards wide and unfordable, | | |with slight current E. to W.; | | |following the bank for a mile | | |through high grass and crossing | | |the Khor Veitatei the river bends | | |S. Near a large Bolo tree. S. of | | |this tree is a good ford. Water 2 | | |feet 6 inches deep. Sandy bottom. | | | | | |Right bank easy, left bank had to | | |be ramped. Good shade on right | | |bank. None on left. | | | | | |Route now nearly due S., through | | |high grass. Near River Ba for 2 | | |miles. Then crosses a small khor | | |with running water and ascends a | | |hill to Sheikh Toin’s, the River | | |Ba being left to the eastwards. | | | Sheikh Toin | 5¼ | 123¼ |Village burnt 11th February. | | |Situated on top of a grey | | |sandstone hill. Water from pool in | | |Khor Maposho, a mile S. From this | | |village to Rikta’s there is a good | | |track. Much bush and high grass. | | | Khor Maposho | 5¾ | 129 |Track again crosses the khor. Two | | |good pools. Long grass and thick | | |bushes. | | | Hukwar’s | 7 | 136 |Small place. Good pools ¼ mile | | |N.W. Burnt 10th February. Track | | |continues through high grass and | | |bush for 4½ miles to the first | | |houses of Rikta’s village. | | | Khor Menza | 5½ | 141½ |A narrow but deep khor with | | |thickly wooded banks. Many pools | | |both above and below track. | | | | | |High grass, with clearings for | | |cultivation: dura, telibun and | | |maize (very little). | | | Khor Nabazibi | ¾ | 142¼ |A large khor, with thickly wooded | | |banks. Many pools of good water, | | |both above and below track. Was | | |bridged by Rikta, but bridge | | |burnt. There must be 7 feet of | | |water in the khor at times. The | | |width varies from 30 to 60 yards | | |wide, the more narrow portions | | |being between ironstone rock. | | | Rikta’s | — | — |The Sheik’s house (burnt 10th | | |February, 1904) was 250 yards from | | |the bridge. The village was | | |scattered along the higher ground | | |on both banks of the Khor | | |Nabazibi. Except where cleared for | | |cultivation, the country is | | |covered with scattered trees and | | |high grass. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 55.—WAU TO TEMBURA. BY CAPTAIN A. B. BETHEL, R.A., AUGUST, 1904. [Sidenote: Water, etc.] In the dry season, I consider that this road would present a good many difficulties in the way of water supply for troops or animal transport using it. [Sidenote: Transport.] In the wet season, the road is only fit for carrier transport, as many of the khors are so full that it would entail swimming the animals across, and carrying the baggage over by hand; bridging one or two more of the khors would assist matters a good deal, but the River Bo is too wide for a bridge to be thrown across it, and I think it quite possible that these small native-made bridges would be swept away in the deep khors. A small Berthon boat is indispensable to anyone using this road in the wet season. [Sidenote: Track and country.] The track is a well marked one the whole way. After leaving the Zeriba of Kutsuk Ali, the country becomes undulating till Khor Abera is reached, and there are several ridges, with steep ascents and descents; from this, the track is fairly flat till it reaches Tembura’s village, though, S. of Gedi’s village, it runs along the foot of the Undili Mountains. In the wet season, the track is very much overgrown with grass and short scrub to the S. of Ali’s Babai; N. of it, the grass is not so high, nor so thick, but the going is bad, as much of the track is under water, and it is especially so between Khors Gullamba and Gumbola. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Wau | — | — | | | | River Wau | 4 | — |Good ford in dry season, about 2·6 | | |to 3 feet deep. | | | _Sheikh Kwol’s| 10 | 14 |3 rest houses, well in village, village_ (Rest| | |river 2 miles away. house) | | | | | | _Zeriba Kutsuk| 3 | 17 |2 small wells close to Zeriba. Ali_ | | | | | | Khor Kossukali| 12 | 29 |2 rest houses. (Rest house) | | | | | | _Khor Abera_ | 5 | 34 |2 rest houses, water all the year. (Rest house) | | | | | | Khor Tela | 7 | 41 |2 rest houses. (Rest house) | | | | | | _Khor Borda_ | 9 | 50 |Water said to be in a pool here | | |all the year. | | | Khor Nyeka | 9 | 59 |2 rest houses. (Rest house) | | | | | | _Khor Gumbala_| 10 | 69 |2 rest houses, water said to be in (Rest house) | | |pools all the year. | | | _Khor | 11 | 80 |1 rest house, deep khor, 5 feet Gullamba_ | | |deep in wet season, water probably (Rest house) | | |all the year. Rest house. | | | Khor Gomereh | 3 | 83 | | | | _Khor Deboka_ | 16 | 99 |Deep khor, water all the year, and Sheikh | | |Tukls in old village still intact. Ali’s Babai | | |2 rest houses. (Rest house) | | | | | | _River Bo_ | 12 | 111 |2 rest houses, easily crossed in (Rest house) | | |dry season; boat necessary in wet | | |season, as it is 80 yards wide. | | |Water all the year. | | | _Khor Gutti_ | 19 | 130 |Water probably all the year. | | | _Sheikh Wura’s| 6 | 136 |2 rest houses, water all the year. village_ | | | (Belanda) | | | (Rest house) | | | | | | _Gedi’s | 12 | 148 |1 Tukl and 1 Dahr-El-Tor, water village_ (Rest| | |all the year. house) | | | | | | _River Duma_ | 19 | 167 |Bridge, water all the year. | | | _Sheikh | 6 | 173 |Water all the year. Bumangedi’s | | | son’s village_| | | | | | _River Yebbo_ | 6 | 179 |Bridge, water all the year, about | | |15 yards wide. | | | Tambura’s | 3 | 182 | enclosure | | | --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 56.—WAU TO DEIM ZUBEIR. MAJOR W. A. BOULNOIS, APRIL, 1901; AND LIEUTENANT-COLONEL SPARKES, APRIL, 1903. [Sidenote: The country.] All forest and jungle. Cultivated patches round Biselli. Country gets gradually more undulating, and hills and ridges are higher towards Deim Zubeir. Granite boulders and ironstone intermingled. [Sidenote: Rivers.] The Bongo and the Kuru. Both much the same, nearly dry in dry weather, probably full, and difficult to cross between May and October. Many khors, which would be a great obstruction to donkey or even mule traffic. A waterless stretch for 30 miles from Khor Gitti to the Bongo in dry weather. There is a well out of use at Khor Gombolo, 11½ miles west of Khor Gitti, otherwise water is found at no greater distance than 15 miles interval in pools in the khors. [Sidenote: The track.] Is very indistinct in places.[27] Elephant tracks lead off which help to confuse it. Bushes and trees constantly intercept. [Sidenote: Natives.] Biselli is fairly populated with Golo and a few Kreich and Bari, originally from Deim Idris. Deim Zubeir almost entirely Kreich. Natives live on barley, roots, and berries of trees, and on honey a great deal at this time of year (April). --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Fort Dessaix- | — | — |Track leaves the river nearly due Wau Post | | |W.; several khors are crossed: | | |Khor Ganna at 2 miles, Khor Ngoa | | |at 9 miles, Khor Alfell at 10 | | |miles. | | | _Absaka’s_ new| 12 | 12 |Water from Well. Rakuba and hut village | | |for traveller. | | | | | |A track crosses the route at 12 | | |miles from the Jur Village Nuara | | |to iron furnaces 15 miles S.W. and | | |S. At Absaka’s old village, at 17½ | | |miles there is well water. | | | Ganna | 4½ | 16½ |A village taking its name from | | |another Khor Ganna is passed. Golo _Biselli (old | 9 | 25½ |villages to and at Biselli. Rest zeriba)_ | | |Rakuba for travellers. The old | | |zeriba is in ruins—few trees are | | |left; ½ mile further west the huts | | |and zeribas of Golo—Sheikh Limbo. | | |Water from Khor Gitti ½ mile N., | | |flowing N.E., always good. | | | | | |The track nearly all the way so | | |far is thoroughly thickly wooded | | |country, much intercepted by | | |shrubs, bushes, and branches. | | | | | |Hence track goes slightly S. or W. | | |for 4 miles along right bank of | | |Khor Gitti, passing French wooden | | |bridge over the khor to Village | | |Gumsi Golo, thence W. across Khor | | |Gitti. | | | _Khor Gombolo_| 10 | 35½ |Well giving bad water in dry | | |season (March to end of May). | | |Rakuba and huts. Dry route | | |crossing Khor Gombolo and Gamus | | |(native name, Ingataba), much | | |intercepted by bushes and trees to River Bongo | 20 | 55½ |River Bongo—steep banks; trees | | |close up to river banks; marsh ½ | | |mile broad, left bank; flowing | | |N.E. from S. about 30 yards broad | | |from bank to bank. Banks at low | | |water (14.3.01) about 20 feet | | |high, sandy bottom, always good | | |clear water in pools. Rakuba and | | |huts. A species of Tetse fly | | |infests the banks of this river. | | | | | |Thence through forest | | |country—higher ground—crossing | | |several khors, past Aboko hills at | | |11 miles, 1 mile N. of track, | | |whence a view is obtained. Granite | | |ridges about 600 feet high, trees | | |growing up to the summit. Khors | | |Karra and Ganna flowing towards | | |the Bongo water. | | | _Khor Ganna_ | 13½ | 69 |Water always in Khor Ganna (in | | |well in dry season). Rakuba and | | |huts. | | | | | |Several more khors are crossed. | | |Country getting slightly more | | |undulating. Several granite | | |outcrops and boulders are passed. | | | _Khor Gongoba_| 6½ | 75½ |Khor Gongoba, dry in dry season. | | |Three and a half miles further on, | | |Khor Idris, always water (both | | |have rakubas and huts). | | | _Khor Raml_ | 12 | 87½ |Khors Raml and Tena hold water in | | |pools in dry season, and flow S. _Khor Tena_ | 3½ | 91 |to Bongo. The former has rakuba | | |and huts. | | | _Deim Idris_ | 5 | 96 |Well situated on high ground | | |(gives bad water). Now in ruins. | | |Rakuba and huts. Small trees, | | |jungle, and wilderness. Palisades | | |of burnt wood poles show the | | |outlines of Gessi’s fort. The | | |earthworks of a battery and ruins | | |of two houses are visible. Two or | | |three wells are traced, now tilled | | |up. Three-quarters of a mile | | |further W. the ruins of Suleiman’s | | |fort is passed, touching the | | |track, and shortly after Khor | | |Gelaba is crossed, where once | | |stood houses and a Suk, now | | |wilderness. | | | | | |Country more undulating, and after | | |passing over a long ridge, the | | |khors are more numerous, and flow | | |northwards to Kuru river. Some | | |years nearly all hold _pools of | | |water in the dry season, but they | | |are often dry_. | | | _River Kuru_ | 23 | 119 |Steep banks 20 feet high, 30 to 50 | | |yards from bank to bank, very | | |slight current in stream, 6 feet | | |deep. Good water. Rakuba and huts. | | | | | |Very pretty banks with overhanging | | |trees on both sides. | | | _Khor Mubenga_| 7½ | 126½ |Always water. Rakuba and huts. | | | _Khor Ghanam_ | 17½ | 144 |Khor Ghanam. Crossed at the horse- (flowing S. to| | |shoe bend mentioned by Dr. Junker. Kuru) | | |Banks steep, 15 feet high, 15 | | |yards from bank to bank, always | | |water in pools. Rakuba and huts. | | | | | |Remains of Gessi’s entrenchments, | | |ironstone, 100 yards W. of left | | |bank. | | | | | |Track follows right bank of Khor | | |Uiri running into Khor Ghanam for | | |1 mile, then rising over a ridge | | |of 4 miles drops down the W. | | |slope, facing a valley with the E. | | |slope of Deim Zubeir ridge | | |opposite. Open ground—dura fields | | |and the fort in the front—Khor | | |Ujugu (spring water) is crossed ¼ | | |mile E. of the Fort of Deim Deim Zubeir | 6 | 150 |Zubeir. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- N.B. No inhabitants between Biselli and Deim Zubeir. 57.—CHAK CHAK TO DEIM ZUBEIR. BY LIEUTENANT FELL, R.N., APRIL, 1904. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Chak Chak | — | — |Track lies nearly due S. Very good | | |going along broad road to village _Khor | 6 | 6 |of Baraguei, on khor of same name; Baraguei_ | | |thence through straggling village | | |to house of Sheikh Limliffo _Sheikh | 3 | 9 |(Kreich), 1 mile from river. Limliffo_ | | |Thence through forest to small (Rest house) | | |Shat village, Sheikh Ramadan on | | |Khor Mwelli. Road difficult to | | |follow owing to numerous elephant | | |roads. | | | _Khor Mwelli, | 20 | 29 |Good water in khor, but not very Sheikh | | |much of it (April, 1904). Ramadan_ (Rest| | | house) | | | | | | | | |From here, track is better defined | | |and lies through forest to rocky | | |khor. Rain pools in rocks. Small | 5 | 34 |hill to E. | | | _Khor Kobshum_| 6½ | 40½ |Good going to Khor Kobshum. Water (Rest house) | | |in large pool and again in several | | |pools half hour further on, 1 mile | | |W. of rocky hill with another hill | | |further to the E. | | | _Khor Kobshum_| 1½ | 42 |From Kobshum, through forest, to (Rest house) | | |Khor Klippi. Road crosses this | | |khor —no water, but strikes it Khor Klippi | 3½ | 45½ |again after 1 mile. Water in pool. | | |Thence through undulating forest | | |country, crossing many khors to Khor Agok | 8 | 53½ |Khor Agok, plenty of water, track (Rest house) | | |difficult to follow owing to many | | |elephant and game roads. From Khor | | |Agok, road crosses many khors, but | | |none at present (April 13) holding | | |water. | | | _River Chel_ | 8 | 61½ |River 100 yards wide. W. bank (Rest house) | | |steep and high. Plenty of water in | | |pools above and below the road; | | |leaving Chel river track passes _Pools in | 2½ | 64 |through slightly more open country forest_ | | |to 2 pools with plenty of water, 1 | | |mile apart. | | | | | |Thence through thick forest over | | |high ground, passing small rocky _River Biri_ | 11 | 75 |Jebel to E. of track to River (Rest house) | | |Biri. Plenty of water. | | | | | |Thence track is never far from | | |bank of river. Bad going for | | |animals. | | | River Biri | 7 | 87 |Road joins Kossinga road at Biri | | |River, 5 miles from Deim Zubeir. | | | Deim Zubeir | 5 | 92 | --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 58.—DEIM ZUBEIR TO KOSSINGA. BY MAJOR W. A. BOULNOIS, 8TH MAY, 1901. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Deim Zubeir | — | — |A track is followed N.N.W. down a | | |spur of the ridge to River Biri, _Biri River_ | 5½ | 5½ |which is crossed at some rocks in | | |a shallow at a sharp bend, between | | |two deep pools. Stream about 1 | | |mile an hour (23.3.01); granite | | |boulders in the bed—trees | | |overhanging the banks. Banks 15 | | |feet high, and steep, except at | | |crossing; 40 yards bank to bank; | | |very pretty scenery. Thence | | |through forests, free from shrubs. | | |Five and a-half miles on from the | | |rocky spur Tuambu, a view of Hill | | |Tokingaran about 6 miles W.N.W. is | | |obtained; the track to Boko, where | | |Zemio has an outpost, runs close | | |under this hill. | | | | | |Half a mile further the huts of | | |Sheikh Mattar (Kreich) are passed, | | |and many deleib palms stud the | | |country side. The district and a | | |hill N.E. about 10 miles are | | |called Deleib. | | | _Khor Jangwi_ | 8½ | 14 |Khor Jangwi is crossed running E. | | |to Biri river, a small deep khor | | |about 20 feet broad with pools; a | | |grove of deleibs marks a good pool | | |and camping site. | | | Khor Rogoko | 4½ | 18½ |Thick forest to pool Rogoko, where | | |there is a deserted village, _Khor | 5½ | 24 |thence no track through forest Odagombo_ | | |past Odagombo, where there is | | |always water, running east to | | |Biri; ruins of village on N. side, | | |and cross Khors Aparipi and Achon _Sopo River_ | 19 | 43 |to River Sopo. Thick bushes on the | | |edge of the bank impede the | | |crossing; 70 to 80 yards broad; | | |granite bed in places. It is | | |crossed at a regular floor of | | |granite rocks, stretching 200 | | |yards down the river and damming | | |the stream at low water, thus | | |making a fine pool above; deep | | |drains and khors running down to | | |the river from gradually sloping | | |ridges, on either bank. | | | | | |Hence E. of N. across a bend of | | |Sopo river, which is crossed at 12 | | |miles and followed and recrossed | | |again at the cataract or falls of _Kaloka_ | 20 | 63 |Kaloka, fine granite boulders and | | |a deep pool. Shortly after the | | |river is crossed again, and the | | |regular track from Deim Zubeir is | | |joined at Khor Regaba, a village _Khor Regaba_ | 11½ | 74½ |of Mandallas on the left bank of | | |Sopo river is passed. | | | Hill Lutu | — | — |Thence Sopo is left gradually a | | |few miles E., and the Hill Lutu (a | | |steep granite hill about 500 feet | | |high, shaped like half an egg) is | | |passed at 7 miles. Thence an open | | |valley across _Khor Lutu_ where | | |there is _always water in pools_. | | |Quarter mile further on the _Kossinga_ | 9½ | 84 |village of Sultan Nasser of | | |Telgona is reached, nestling under | | |the rocks of Kossinga, three | | |granite peaks from 200 to 400 feet | | |high, with trees growing up to the | | |summit. | | | | | |Kossinga is a large village with | | |about 300 inhabitants, Mandallas | | |being the Negro portion, but the | | |majority being a breed half Arab | | |(Baggaras and Jaalin) and half | | |Mandalla. | | | | | |Sultan Nasser lives here. The men | | |are armed with a certain amount of | | |Remington rifles, and a lot of | | |useless guns of sorts. I saw four | | |or five Lebel rifles—altogether | | |about 200 rifles, and no doubt the | | |outlying districts and villages | | |would bring it up to 2,000 rifles. | | |(?) | | | | | |There is a market; dura semsem, | | |salt, bamia, beans (ful Sudani or | | |monkeynuts) can be bought, and | | |occasionally an Arab merchant | | |makes his appearance and sells | | |cloth, &c., generally coming from | | |Omdurman. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- NOTE.—The regular track was not followed as the guide elected to try a short route and lost his way in the forest. 59.—KOSSINGA TO WAU (FORT DESSAIX). BY MAJOR W. A. BOULNOIS, MAY, 1901. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Kossinga | — | — |Track runs due E., passing through | | |a small village of Shat people. At | | |5 miles, cross Sopo river at a | | |ford, now dry (30.3.01), to _Lambe_ | 8 | 8 |village of Lambe, also Shat under | | |Sultan Nasser. The Shat tribe is | | |an off-shoot of Shilluk tribe. The | | |Luju khor joins the Sopo just S. | | |of track. Marshy ground for ¼ mile | | |from each bank of latter. | | | | | |Thence just S. of E. through | | |forest, ground slightly | | |undulating, pass well and Khor _Khor Angejok_| 7½ | 15½ |Angejok where there is water. When | | |pool dries, well is open. Bad | | |going owing to elephant tracks | | |across the khor; less than 3 miles | | |further on, the old Government | | |track from Deim Zubeir to Shakka | | |is crossed, now scarcely used. | | | _Khor | 6½ | 22 |Water is always found in Khor Lashirek_ | | |Lashirek in pools, and in a pool ½ | | |mile S. of track in Khor Babbi; _Khor Babbi_ | 5 | 27 |always water. Hence the track runs | | |slightly N. of E., and is much | | |intercepted by trees and bushes in | | |places for the next 8 or 10 miles, | | |then fairly open across Khors | | |Enniar and Adda Tumia, both dry _Khor Ayala_ | 25 | 52 |(1.4.01), to a well at Khor Ayala, | | |in which there is a little water. | | |Good track, going scarcely | | |impeded. The well here is only | | |opened when the pool in khor dries | | |up. | | | Abuia | 16 | 68 |Ironstone surface till Shat | | |village Abuia is reached. This is | | |in the district of the Dinka chief | | |Chak Chak of Chamamui. | | | _River Biri or| 4 | 72 |Thence to River Biri, known as Chel_ | | |Chel here, open low ground for 1 | | |mile before reaching the river, | | |which is 60 to 100 yards broad, | | |sandy bottom, banks 10 to 15 feet | | |high, very little water (2.4.01), | | |ankle deep at the ford, which is Chamamui | — | — |only 10 feet broad. Then up a | | |gradual slope to high ground for ¼ | | |mile to house of Sheikh or Sultan | | |Chak Chak (Dinka). A large village | | |with fine situation on long hill | | |sloping to the bank of the river. | | |Government post here. | | | | | |Track goes from ford slightly E. | | |of S. to S.E. through much dura, | | |and then E.S.E. past several huts | | |to Village Dambo at 2 miles and | | |Akot at 4 miles, both inhabited by | | |Dinkas and Golos to high ground, _Khor Alalla_ | 14 | 86 |ironstone surface to Khor Alalla | | |or Mali where there is always | | |water, 15 yards wide, broad banks | | |12 feet high and very steep. This | | |khor flows from N. of Deim Idris | | |and empties into the Chel or Biri. | | | | | |Half a mile further is the village | | |of Alalla (Dinkas) subject to Chak | | |Chak. | | | _Well Hadid_ | 7½ | 93½ |Hence track goes S.E. pass Well | | |Hadid and well in Khor Babbai, _Khor Babbai_ | 4 | 97½ |where there are some huts and | | |cultivation, now deserted. | | | Khor Kum | 15 | 112½ |Thence to Khor and Well Kum, | | |latter giving very little water | | |(Sparkes says plentiful and good, | | |and never dry, January, 1903). | | |Good going past ironstone ridge, | | |Ruku 60 feet high, no view | | |obtainable across Khor Ungu a _Khor Ajak_ | 17½ | 130 |tributary of Khor Ajak, which | | |latter is crossed with some | | |difficulty in the rains, to Khor Atta | 2 | 132 |village of Attah, close to right | | |bank of Khor Ajak. Golos, Jurs and | | |Dinkas under powerful Dinka chief | | |Agaka, brother of Chak Chak. The | | |district is called Ajak. | | | | | |Thence good track unimpeded S.E. | | |to S. to the marshes of the Bongo | | |river, with woods on right bank 3 | | |miles distant. The track skirts | | |the marshes of the left bank, | | |going along the high ground and | | |fringe of the forest. Khors | | |Dengmelah and Akweya (running into | | |the river from W.) are crossed at | | |5 and 7 miles respectively; and 7 | | |miles further on the track strikes | | |E. across the marsh, ½ mile to _River Bongo_ | — | — |Bongo river, which is crossed and | | |goes to the village of Lang (Jur) _Lang_ | 15 | 147 |on right bank at the edge of the | | |forest. | | | _Deimgnaui_ | 7 | 154 |Thence southerly along edge of | | |forest and swamp, across Khor | | |Wartum to Deimgnaui. The old | | |zeriba is now in ruins. | | | | | |Many Golo, Bari and Ndogo villages | | |are passed, Khor Warur (with water | | |being crossed 1 mile S. of | | |Deimgnaui). | | | _Damuri_ | 13 | 167 |Track goes due S. to house of | | |Sheikh Kayanga, with a fine zeriba | | |and the British and Egyptian flags | | |flying at Damuri, past more _Bukanda_ | 5 | 172 |villages with much dura, crossing | | |Khors Kambang and Akoli to Bukanda | | |a village of Baris. | | | | | |Thence S.E. through jungle for 12 | | |miles till the house of Sheikh | | |Salim Bari is passed, then 1 mile _Khor Gitti_ | 16 | 188 |to Khor Gitti, which is crossed 2 | | |miles lower down; 1 mile further | | |S.E. is the village of Sheikh | | |Ambua Indogo, where there is much | | |dura. | | | Marhu | 7 | 195 |Thence over high ground—no | | |villages—passing ruins of old | | |zeriba Marhu of which a few brick | | |foundations only are visible, | | |descending into the Jur and Dinka | | |village of Nuara, Sheikhs Melong Nuara | 9 | 204 |and Mill respectively. | | | Wau Post | 6 | 210 |Thence the track is much | | |intercepted by bushes in places to | | |Wau Post, crossing Khor Ganna ¾ | | |mile from the zeriba. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 60.—KOSSINGA TO HOFRAT EL NAHAS. BY LIEUTENANT-COLONEL SPARKES, MARCH, 1903. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Kossinga | — | — | | | | _Khor Lutu_ | 3 | 3 |Cross Khor Lutu, now dry, but for | | |pools. Direction S.W. Going good. | | | | 8 | 11 |_Small pool_—reported dry in | | |March. | | | _River Ragaa_ | 5 | 16 |Good going all way to river, which | | |is here 100 to 150 yards broad, 15 | | |feet banks—now small stream 2 feet | | |deep. It later on joins River | | |Boru, and finally, after junction | | |with it, the Bahr El Arab. J. | | |Dandu, rocky hill about 300 feet | | |high, lies 2 or 3 miles to S. | | | _Ragaa_ | 10 | 26 |Chief town of Sultan Musa Hamed, | | |the Faroge chief, well situated on | | |rising ground. River Ragaa flows | | |at foot. Good going all way from | | |Kossinga over slightly undulating | | |ground, with occasional rocky | | |excrescences, not big enough to be | | |called hills, but big enough to | | |notice in this dead flat country. | | | _Membera_ | 7 | 33 |From Ragaa track lies W.N.W., and | | |is good. Scattered villages, | | |called Membera. Sheikhs Futu and | | |Adam. | | | _Khor Rakib El| 8 | 41 |Small well, always gives water, Gamal_ | | |now (17th Feb.) pool with ample | | |water, but drying up fast. | | | _Khor Ronda_ | 6½ | 47½ |Fair going through bush and scrub, | | |crossing two dry khors and passing | | |a pool with water 4 miles from | | |Rakib El Gamal. | | | _Khor Metemma_| 3 | 50½ |Always water. | | | _River Boru_ | 11 | 61½ |Good going through many Lulu trees | | |to river and village of Boru, | | |Sheikh Futer. About largest tree | | |yet seen in Bahr El Ghazal—some | | |sort of acacia—in centre of | | |village, near Sheikh’s house. | | |River is 1¼ mile from village, | | |very similar to Ragaa, and | | |formidable obstacle in rains. | | | | 11 | 72½ |Fair going, passing through two | | |villages to pool where there is | | |always water. Now marching almost | | |N. through very hilly country, | | |gravelly soil and track like a | | |switchback. Chain of tree-covered | | |hill on W., called Jebel I, and on | | |E. called Jebel Yarkar. | | | _Jebel I_ | 5½ | 78 |Pool, always water at foot of | | |Jebel I. | | | Bashum | 12 | 90 |Fair going over up and down | | |country, occasionally cut by | | |elephant tracks, to village of | | |Sheikh Bashum. People: Kreich and | | |Faroge, under Sultan Musa. This is | | |N. limit of Musa’s people. Jebel | | |Umbelanda lies 5 or 6 miles to W. | | | _Khor Dikki_ | 5 | 95 |Track lies through Umbelanda | | |range. Direction N.N.W. Always | | |water in Khor Dikki. | | | _Khor Monio_ | 6 | 101 |Always water. | | | _River | 6 | 107 |Always water. Nearly 100 yards Shaliko_ | | |across; shelving banks. Runs into | | |Bahr El Arab. Very pretty spot. | | | _Khor Dimkano_| 4 | 111 |Track now lies W. of N.W. Always | | |water at Dimkano, but “fly” very | | |bad indeed. | | | _River Siri_ | 9 | 120 |Sandy bed, 80 to 90 yards wide; | | |banks 10 to 12 feet. Water always | | |obtainable by scratching hole in | | |sand. Runs into Bahr El Arab. | | | _Khor Bapa_ | 5 | 125 |Rocky khor; always water in pools. | | | Jebel Paya | 6 | 131 |Jebel Paya lies to E. of track; | | |other hills on all sides. Good | | |going, but much up and down. | | | _River Rikki_ | 4 | 135 |Similar to Siri, but always open | | |water, and banks very steep. Track | | |now N. of N.W. | | | _Khor Vongo_ | 7 | 142 |Always water. | | | _Kafikingi_ | 8 | 150 |Village of Sultan Ibrahim Murad | | |(Kreich). 200 to 250 huts; | | |scattered, and somewhat | | |dilapidated. Small stream ½ mile | | |from village, always holds water | | |and fish. Last 15 miles about N.W. | | | _River Adda_ | 10 | 160 |Track now to N.N.E. Good going | | |through thick wood along main road | | |to Kalaka. River Adda 60 to 80 | | |yards wide, banks 10 to 12 feet; | | |stream running E., now but little | | |water. | | | | 11 | 171 |Follow Kalaka road for 11 miles, | | |along valley of Adda, then cross | | |river and strike slightly W. of | | |N., leaving all signs of a track, | | |as old Hofrat El Nahas road is | | |entirely obliterated, and going | | |bad and difficult. | | | _Khor Gugu_ | 2½ | 173½ |Across Adda plain to Khor Gugu, | | |where always water. | | | Jebel Teni | 7½ | 181 |An old well at foot of jebel, but | | |at present choked and useless. | | | Khor Unwolo | 8 | 189 |Dry khor. Track now runs N.N.W. | | | _Kafrmoya_ | 6 | 195 |Large pool now (28th Feb.); ample | | |water. Many rhino about here. | | | _River | 4 | 199 |Through sites of long abandoned Umbelacha_ | | |villages to River Umbelacha; (Bahr El | | |guides, &c., only know it by this Fertit) | | |name. River runs E., but little | | |water at present; but fine stream | | |when full, 80 to 100 yards broad, | | |10 to 12 feet banks; bed alternate | | |rock and sand. Seventy to 80 miles | | |to E., this river joins River | | |Adda, the two forming Bahr El | | |Arab. | | | Hofrat El | 1 | 200 |Copper mines of Hofrat El Nahas Nahas | | |lie 1 mile to S. of river, consist | | |of number of shallow pits covering | | |½ mile square. Whole country round | | |absolutely deserted, and no people | | |have lived here since first rising | | |of Mahdism, when Ibrahim Murad and | | |his people—the former | | |inhabitants—went to Kafikingi, | | |which is now nearest village. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 61.—RAGAA TO DEIM ZUBEIR. BY COLONEL SPARKES, C.M.G., MARCH, 1903. [Sidenote: Roads.] Roads everywhere fair, except between River Adda and Hofrat El Nahas, where no track at all, and in parts between Ragaa and Deim Zubeir which require clearing of undergrowth and bush. This is now being done. [Sidenote: Game.] Game is plentiful near rivers and khors still holding water. No elephants seen, but they must be very numerous in rains, from many tracks which cut up roads in parts. [Sidenote: Trade goods.] Cloth and clothing asked for everywhere. Hard cash taken at Kossinga and Ragaa. [Sidenote: Water.] In dry season ample water to be found at no greater distance apart than 21 miles. [Sidenote: Rivers and khors.] In rains the many rivers and khors would take a lot of time and trouble to cross, and a Berthon boat would be indispensable. [Sidenote: Camps, &c.] Fair camping grounds found almost everywhere and wood always. [Sidenote: Fly.] Fly is bad everywhere, and would be probably fatal to horses or camels. Strong healthy mules and donkeys seem to stand it, but weak, sickly and those with bad sores succumb. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- _Ragaa_ | — | — |Track lies slightly W. of S., good | | |going through thick wood to small _Khor_ | 13 | 13 |khor where always water. | | | | 3½ | 16½ |Another small khor where always | | |water; whole country slightly | | |undulating. | | | J. Legai | 7 | 23½ |Bare rocky mass about 100 feet | | |high to right of track. Other | | |hills, Tara, Jojeni and Goza, to | | |E. and S.E. | | | | 5½ | 29 |Cross deep narrow khor, now dry, | | |and soon after enter regular | | |network of ridges of bare black | | |granite called Mungiat. Track now | | |slightly E. of S. | | | _J. Mungiat_ | 1½ | 30½ |Scattered village, Sheikh Zanga, | | |under Musa Hamed. For next 4 miles | | |track lies along narrow valley | | |between ridges of bare granite, | | |crossing Khor Barmindiat, in which | | |always water, four times. | | | _Shobindi_ | 5½ | 36 |Scattered villages of Sheikh | | |Shobindi, head Sheikh of all | | |Mungiat district, an old man | | |almost blind, under Musa Hamed. | | |Sultan Nasser Andel also has | | |people near here. | | | | 4½ | 40½ |Khor about ¼ mile to left of | | |track, always water. Track now | | |lies S.E.; is narrow and impeded | | |by bushes. | | | _River Koko_ | 12 | 52½ |Narrow river, always water; | | |difficult to cross even when half | | |full. Runs into Sopo. | | | | 1½ | 54 |Small khor, always water. | | | _River Sopo_ | 9 | 63 |Bad going through thick bush, and | | |cross a stony hill and River Sopo, | | |50 yards wide, good deal water | | |still and slight current. Very | | |difficult in rains. | | | Guji | 12 | 75 |Beginning of Kreich villages under | | |Sheikh Minni Bey, which are | | |scattered over several miles. | | | _River Biri_ | 7 | 82 |Very similar to Sopo. | | | _Deim Zubeir_ | 5 | 87 |Pass two small Kreich villages and | | |arrive Government Post of Deim | | |Zubeir, well situated on old site, | | |on rising ground. Khor Ujuku at | | |foot, now almost dry; fair water | | |got from wells. Reported healthy. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 62.—KOJALI TO TONJ. BY LIEUTENANT-COLONEL SPARKES, JULY, 1901. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Poste Arsenal | — | — |Cross from left to right bank of or Kojali | | |Jur River, which is 150 yards | | |wide, 12 feet deep at banks, and | | |20 feet deep in channel, current 4 | | |miles an hour; crossing a matter | | |of some difficulty, as have only a | | |small Berthon boat and a dug-out; | | |it takes some hours, but is | | |effected without casualties. | | | _Kana’s_ | 5½ | 5½ |The going on right bank much village | | |better than on left bank. There is | | |a good track, and grass as a rule | | |not more than waist high; on other | | |side it was frequently 6 feet or 8 | | |feet high. Village of Kana-Rewa, a | | |brother of Tembura’s, is well | | |built and well kept. Kana’s | | |“Mbanga” or private enclosure | | |surrounded by banana trees. Cross | | |two small khors en route. Village | | |consists of 40 to 50 scattered | | |huts. | | | Khor | 3 | 8½ |Our track now lies to N.E., and we | | |gradually leave Jur River. Khor is | | |12 feet wide and 3 feet deep. | | | | 2 | 10½ |Ravine with small khor at bottom. | | | Khor Sur | 7 | 17½ |Twenty feet wide and 5 feet deep, | | |runs into Jur. | | | _Khor Beilo_ | ½ | 18 |Small khor 2 feet deep. | | | | 8½ | 26½ |Marsh, but not bad crossing. | | | J. Hibi | 3 | 29½ |Rocky mass of sort of grey | | |granite, site of final battle | | |between Nyam Nyams and Bongos, | | |which lasted 6 days, when latter | | |were utterly defeated. | | | Khor Kumio | 1 | 30½ |Fifteen feet wide, 2 feet to 6 | | |feet deep. Village of Bongos, | | |slaves of Sheikh Kana, just beyond | | |khor. | | | Khor | 7 | 37½ |Small khor, 10 feet wide, 18 | | |inches deep. | | | _Ndoruma’s | 2 | 39½ |Village of Ndoruma Rewa, another village_ | | |brother of Tembura; it is quite | | |new, only having been built within | | |last few months. Very similar in | | |size, &c., to Kana’s village, and | | |is the extreme northern outpost of | | |the Nyam Nyams. | | | | 2½ | 42 |Marsh 100 yards wide, at present | | |only 6 feet deep; another marsh | | |200 yards wide, but not yet bad | | |crossing. | | | Village | 5½ | 47½ |Ndoruma’s old village, abandoned 2 | | |months ago, huts all still | | |standing and in good order. | | | Khor | 11 | 58½ |Small khor, dry in winter. | | | Khor | 2½ | 61 |Small khor, dry in winter. | | | Khor Wolo | 17 | 78 |Dry in winter. | | | _Khor | 3½ | 81½ |More a marsh than a khor, said to Kordabella_ | | |be never dry, much cut up by | | |elephant tracks, and have | | |considerable difficulty with | | |animals in crossing. | | | _Khor Gutong_ | 6½ | 88 |Said to have always water running | | |to N., and rather fancy this may | | |be River Mulmul under another | | |name. | | | _Khor Mungara_| 3 | 91 |Always contains water, more a | | |marsh than a khor, with muddy | | |holding bottom and cut up by | | |elephant tracks, 100 yards wide, | | |and have to carry loads across as | | |laden animals fall and stick in | | |mud. | | | _River Tonj_ | 15½ | 106½ |River plain here, some 3 miles | | |wide, follow left bank, trees up | | |to river edge on right bank. River | | |almost full, and about 40 yards | | |wide. | | | | 15½ | 122 |River here makes great bend to W. | | |and comes up to edge of trees, the | | |river plain now being on right | | |bank, but this is only for a short | | |distance, as a rule the plain is | | |on left bank. | | | _Khor_ | 4 | 126 |Deep khor running from W. to | | |river; cross by going 1½ miles to Tonj Post | 3 | 129 | N.W. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 63—TONJ TO RUMBEK. BY CAPTAIN E. H. ARMSTRONG, FEBRUARY, 1903. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Tonj | — | — |Road from Tonj crosses river close | | |to, but N. of station, and | 3 | 3 |continues slightly N. of E to | | |forest 3 miles, and on N. along | 3 | 6 |edge of forest 3 miles more to | | |where river approaches close to | | |it. From there road E. and N.E. | | |through forest, passing elephant | | |swamp (dry by January) to village _Sheikh Senug_| 11 | 17 |of Sheikh Senug. Rakuba, two | | |wells, 20 feet N. of rakuba, | | |distance 11 miles. Road from there | | |past villages of Sheikh Bol and | | |through forest, direction E. to | | |_well in Khor Mahok_ under a | | |gemmeiza tree. | | | _Wag Abak_ | 21½ | 38½ |Village of Wag Abak, Sheikh Gehak. | | |No water in between, distance 21½ | | |miles. Water can be brought from | | |village Paag, N. of wood to spot | | |4½ miles W. of gemmeiza tree, if | | |word is sent beforehand. Road | | |continues S.E. across Khor Mahok, | | |wet in January, passing village of | | |Riang (another Sheikh Gehak), also | | |village of Rihan. | | | _Gochin_ | 7 | 45½ |Hamada, interpreter, to village of | | |Gochin, Sheikh Mabiur; two empty | | |forts on W. bank of river Gell, | | |distance 7 miles. On E. across | | |river, then N.E. through village | | |of Sheikh Markoj (Panchoi) to _Sheikh Jok | 6½ | 52 |village of Sheikh Jok Dau, 6½ Dau_ | | |miles. Pool of good water on S. of | | |village, and post and rest house | | |in village. Road continues across | | |village through forest, passing _Sheikh | 12 | 64 |corner of Khor Toj to village of Marnal_ | | |Sheikh Marnal; wells in village | | |and pool on E. side, 12 miles. | | |From there road S.E. along edge of | | |Khor Toj through Fanagai, Sheikh | | |Gran, distance 7 miles, and on 5 | | |miles more to village of Sheikh | | |Ateng, and 1 mile more to Khor _Khor Gulman_ | 13 | 77 |Gurman (or Gulman), where there is | | |a bridge. From there to Khor Khor Abeir | 9 | 86 |Abeir, 9 miles, and from Abeir to | | |Rumbek 9 miles more. | | | Rumbek | 9 | 95 | --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 64.—RUMBEK TO SHAMBE. BY CAPTAIN E. H. ARMSTRONG, 11TH FEBRUARY, 1903. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Rumbek | — | — |From Rumbek, road starts E. and | | |S.E. for 6 miles to where a well | | |has been dug out on N. of road, | | |then S., S.E., and S. for 10 miles _Adwolians_ | 16 | 16 |to well in Adwolians. Best well at | | |a tobacco garden. | | | | | |Good road through burnt villages; | | |sandy. | | | | | |From Adwolian, road due E. to | | |through village and bit of forest | | |to edge of forest on valley of R. Naam | 6 | 22 |Naam river. To river bed, 3 miles, | | |and across plain and khors to edge | | |of forest on E. 2½ miles more; | 2½ | 24½ |going very bad, much cut up by | | |elephants; valley requires | | |causeway and bridging very badly; | | |grass very high. From Naam, road Takidur | 3 | 27½ |due E., passing burnt-out village | | |of Takidur after 3 miles, and | | |dried up khor called river Laik | | |(same as M’Buri of Feniar) 3 miles | | |further on. | | | _R. Laik_ | 3 | 30½ |Close by on further side is Mera | | |of Sheikhs Ateir Marial and | | |Agiong, Agars, latter of Ayak, and | | |adjoining is village of Galik. A | | |well has been dug in khor, N. of | | |Mera 5 minutes. Water in lake up | | |to end of December, then found in | | |pool further N. of that well up to | | |February, perhaps later. From here | | |road S.E. through Galik, 20 | | |minutes, and turns E. to village Akot | 6 | 36½ |Akot 6 miles distant. | | | | 2 | 38½ |Two miles more to far side of | | |village. Road good, sandy, over | | |high ground; water very far from | | |surface. From Akot, road due E. to | 3 | 41½ |pool 3 miles, which had water | | |until 15th January, boundary of | 2 | 43½ |Atwots and Agars; 2 miles on to | | | _Apiot_ | 1 | 44½ |Atwot Mera, and 1 more to village | | |of Apiot and Fort. At Apiot 10 | | |good wells give water all the | | |year. People are friendly and | | |ready to help, but are not fond of | | |carrying work. They are more manly | | |and straightforward than the | | |Agars, and I have hopes that they | | |are not so treacherous in | | |disposition. They carry bows and | | |arrows as well as spears. From the | | |fort, road is N.E., through | | |villages of Chediop and Mogar | | |which join each other, then | | |through forest across deserted | | |village of Manibin 9 miles on; to Manibin | 9½ | 54 |pool 3 miles; then through old | | |mudiria with _many small wells_ | 3 | 57 |which do not require much digging | | |to keep them open all the year, 3 | 3 | 60 |miles. | | | | 2 | 62 |After 2 more miles valley of Lau | | |is reached, commencing with khor | | |and pool with water all the year. | | |Up to here road was good, soil | | |very sandy, small belt of forest | | |before reaching river valley. | | |Onwards the soil is sandy for 2 or | | |3 miles, then is composed of the | | |usual black soil of the river | | |valleys. | | | _R. Lau_ | 6 | 68 |From the pool to first branch of | | |Lau river 6 miles, and 2 more on | | |to second and larger branch, then | 4 | 72 |2 more on to camp at edge of | | |forest and village Sheikh Shrun. | | |River valley very bad, much cut up | | |and almost impassable, even | | |without Hamla during rains; 7 or 8 | | |khors as well as 2 branches of | | |river to cross. Requires a good | | |road made across valley. From Lau, | | |road E., through villages for 3 or | | |4 miles, then through forest N.E. Ajak | 24 | 96 |to villages and _wells of Ajak_ | | |and Gour, total 24 miles. Road cut | | |up much by elephants, and in | | |places grass very high. Village of | | |Ajak, ground very sandy and bad | | |for marching. From Ajak, similar | | |road N.E. to Shambe, forest all Shambe | 20 | 116 |the way except last 2 miles, total | | |20 miles. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- NOTE.—Rivers Naam and Lau flow at about 4 miles an hour in flood, and about 3 miles an hour or less when flood is over. The Naam is about 10 feet deep in flood, the eastern bank of Lau 12 and western 10 feet. After rains both rivers fall to about 2 feet deep, and western branch of Lau is dry from March to May. 65.—RUMBEK TO DARAGO’S AND M’VOLO. BY CAPTAIN P. WOOD, APRIL, 1904. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Rumbek | — | — | | | | _Khor Ronga_ | 6½ | 6½ |Half mile in width, quite dry by | | |1st January, 1904. Good water | | |always obtainable from deep pools | | |in swamp at S. edge of khor. Very | | |good track. | | | _Large | 11 | 17½ |Two wells close by. Fair water; Gemmeiza_ tree| | |good supply. Track good. at Sheikh | | | Keli’s old | | | village | | | | | | _Well_ in | 8 | 25½ |Deep well. Indifferent water—thick shallow khor | | |and much discoloured from clayey on right edge | | |nature of soil. of track, half| | | mile S. of | | | Jati’s old | | | house | | | | | | _Sheikh | 10 | 35½ |Water obtainable close at hand. Mornyang’s_ | | |Good track. house in | | | Zeriba | | | | | | _Rihan’s | 7½ | 43 |Water obtainable close at hand. house_ | | | | | | _Sheikh | 14 | 57 |Water ½ a mile distant. Toinye’s_ | | | | | | _Darago’s_ | 7 | 64 |On bank of Naam river. | | | _J. Gurshen_ | 5 | 69 |Water from adjacent khor. (Sheikh Mehl’s| | | village) | | | | | | _S. G. Post at| 9 | 78 |Water from adjacent khor, also Sheikh Agon’s_| | |obtainable from Naam river. | | | M’volo | 3 | 81 |On edge of Naam river—right | | |bank—at rapids, encircled on land | | |side (E.) by perpendicular high | | |granite rocks. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 66.—M’VOLO TO KIRO (BAHR EL JEBEL). BY COLONEL SPARKES, C.M.G., MARCH, 1901. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- M’volo | 3½ | — |Site of old Government station on | | |left bank, no sign of it left. New | | |station now occupied by Government | | |troops. This is a pretty spot. The | | |river, now a tiny stream of clear | | |water, falls over a mass of rocks | | |and winds through great boulders, | | |great rocky ridges line either | | |bank, and many deleib palms assist | | |in the attractiveness of scene. | | |Swarms of guinea fowl about here. | | | | | |Track leaves river and goes E. and | | |passes through country more bush | | |than wood, numerous small trees 6 | | |to 10 feet high, with light green | | |leaves, called umduti by locals. | | | _Modo Village_| 2 | 2 |Sheikh Umbo; village burnt by | | |Nyam-Nyam Sheikh Tembura less than | | |two weeks ago, when he raided | | |whole country. Track now to N. of | | |E. District Leizi ends and that of | | |Kremu begins. | | | _Kremu | 1½ | 3½ |One large and three small wells Village_ and | | |here, giving ample supply of fair District | | |water, said to be dry before rains | | |begin, but now in large well 4½ | | |feet of water and diameter of well | | |7 feet. Track from Kremu fairly | | |well marked, same sort of country, | | |few more lulu trees. Gentle slopes _Khor Degaga_ | 15 | 18½ |up and down to plains, swamps in | | |rains. Two khors which have now | | |ample water (19th February, 1901), | | |said to be dry in another month, | | |but a permanent pool called | | |Kulokho reported close by. | | | _Village_ | 1½ | 20 |Madi village, at present unnamed, (Bufi District| | |being built to replace one burnt begins) | | |by Nyam-Nyam raiders. | | | | | |Cross two khors which would cause | | |some trouble in rains. | | | _Balabbi_ | 4½ | 24½ |Madi village, Sheikh Wanga, in Village | | |Bufi district. | | | _River Rodi or| 4 | 28½ |A very fine river when full, now Yei_ | | |three or four separate streams, | | |beautifully clear water 6 to 8 | | |inches deep, running through sandy | | |bed. Banks 15 to 20 feet high, and | | |100 to 150 yards apart. River | | |valley as before described, only | | |about ½ mile wide here. Lion heard | | |at night, but game not very | | |plentiful. Best trade goods in | | |Gehri, Sofi, Leizi, Kremu and Bufi | | |districts; cloth and beads, then | | |brass, copper wire, or copper. | | | _Bufi_ | 2 | 30½ |A bad road for 2 miles after | | |crossing river, then old | | |Government station Bufi, on river | | |edge, right bank. Earthwork and | | |ditch about 100 yards square all | | |that remains. Track away from | | |river to S.E. through thick bush. | | | _Namusha | 2 | 32½ |Large dura patch and two fair- District_ | | |sized villages; now in Namusha | | |district. | | | | 3 | 35½ |Another dura patch and village. | | | _Wira_ | 3½ | 39 |Strike river again at clearing District, late| | |lately occupied by Belgians. Trees Belgian Post | | |grow to water’s edge on both banks | | |about here, a pretty spot. | | |Belgians are known to natives as | | |Tuktuk (Askari) and Kiro as | | |Simsim. No special name for late | | |Belgian post; it is in Wira | | |district. | | | _Dori Village_| 3½ | 42½ |Track lies E. of S., cutting off | | |bend of river, and indifferent | | |going over several dry khors. | | | _Fashitaura_ | 3 | 45½ |Still in Wira district, track been | | |bending W. of S. | | | _J. Yaira_, | 1½ | 47 |A mass of black rock about 100 beginning of | | |feet high and some 300 yards long, Tokuera | | |full of caves and used as hiding District | | |places for natives during raids, | | |is about ½ mile from river. Trees | | |still to water’s edge, and the | | |wide valleys of rivers further N. | | |seem to have disappeared. Cross | | |several dry khors. | | | | 2 | 49 |Many deleib palms near river. | | | _Village_ | 2 | 51 |Small village; track lying S.E. | | | | 1 | 52 |Through thick low scrub with no | | |trees for about 1½ miles. | | | | 3 | 55 |Cross dry khor and through mass of | | |black rocks which crop up now all | | |along track at intervals; country | | |much more up and down, now no | | |longer dead flat. | | | Village | 2 | 57 |Pass through more scrub. | | | Jebel Dubbo | 3 | 60 |Two high peaks of black rock | | |connected by ridge, track now to | | |S.W. | | | _Beri-Beri | 3 | 63 |Touch river again first time for Village_ | | |14 miles; village about ½ mile District | | |from river, now small stream Tokuera | | |through rocks, trees to edge both | | |sides. | | | _Amadi_ | 5½ | 68½ |Old Government station, earthwork | | |and ditch 200 yards square on | | |river bank, good situation, and | | |village Keini, Sheikh Niari-Paka, | | |about ¼ mile outside work and few | | |huts inside. Cross several dry | | |khors _en route_ to old station; | | |country pretty, many elephant | | |tracks. Best trade goods, Tokuera | | |district, cloth and beads. Leave | | |River Rodi, the track for Kiro | | |lies first to N.E., skirting round | | |N. side of Jebel Dubbo; going bad | | |until clear of outlying rocks, | | |then fair villages both on E. and | | |W. side of Jebel Dubbo, the former | | |lately burnt by Nyam-Nyams from | | |Makarakaland. Cross two khors | | |running from Jebel to river; many | | |such, now dry, khors with sandy | | |and well defined banks, lined with | | |trees run into River Rodi, a | | |feature entirely lacking in rivers | | |more to N. | | | Khor | 9 | 77½ |Large dry khor running N. and S.; | | |track still to N. and E. | | | _Mandia_ | 1 | 78½ |Sheikh Dia, large compact village | | |with quantity dura grown round it, | | |water in well, never dry. | | | _Numali | 6 | 84½ |Large village, quantity of dura Village_ | | |round; Sheikh Waga-Lanio, | | |intelligent man; ample water from | | |wells, never dry. Track still to | | |N. of E.; going good, generally | | |bush, few large trees. One mile to | | |E. after leaving Numali, then N. | | |of E. again, and village Murra, | | |Sheikh Gureh, more commonly called | | |Bilal. One small well ½ mile past | | |village, but gives ample water and | | |reported never dry. | | | | | |Track from here lies to S. a great | | |deal and zigzags a lot, but always | | |trending well S. of E. Fine going | | |through thick bush. | | | _Mudo_ | 10½ | 95 |Sheikh Nier Magura, one well | | |similar to that of Murra. | | | Khor | 3½ | 98½ |Large khor, now dry, running N. | | |and S. Track now about S.E. | | | Khor | 6 | 104½ |Another large dry khor running N. | | |and S., with sandy bed, track | | |still to S. of E. | | | Vura Village | 1 | 105½ |Sheikh Di-Aniara; now in Kederu | | |district, people still Madis. | | |Track from here lies to E. | | | Kederu | 3 | 108½ |Now dry, except for occasional District, | | |pools; sandy bed about 70 yards _River Tafari_| | |wide, banks 8 feet high, | | |apparently does not overflow. | | |Natives say water always | | |obtainable by scraping hole few | | |feet deep in sandy bed. Fine trees | | |line banks. Rhinoceros, elephant, | | |buffalo, and various antelopes | | |found near, also partridge and | | |guinea fowl, but latter very wild. | | | | | |From River Tafari track lies S. of | | |E., and about 5 miles from river | | |we cross to S. of 5° 30′ parallel | | |and proceed through wood, now open | | |and good easy going, now thick, | | |and bad going, cross a few dried | | |up swamps, and pass three villages | | |destroyed by fire. | | | | 25 | 133½ |Lulu trees appear again in | | |considerable numbers. | | | _Nyambara | 10 | 143½ |Sheikh Volo-Likah of Nyambara District, | | |tribe (the Yambara of Felkin and Metika Village| | |Junker); small newly opened well (small well)_ | | |here, giving very limited supply | | |of water, just sufficient for | | |half-pint per man (45 men), but | | |nothing for animals. Up to a few | | |days ago people had been drinking | | |from khors now dry. Between River | | |Tafari and here absolutely | | |uninhabited and at this time of | | |the year waterless. A month ago | | |ample water would be found in | | |birkas and khors. In Nyambara | | |district people now wretchedly | | |poor and miserable, and generally | | |bolted at our approach; huts few, | | |small and badly built. From here | | |track lies first to S.E., then to | | |E. (?) through thick bush. | | | Golela Village| 3½ | 147 |Sheikh Galenga-Lembu, fine looking | | |intelligent man; Nyambaras speak | | |quite a different language to | | |Madis, and appear a low caste of | | |people. | | | _Well (fair | 2½ | 149½ |Two and half miles from village, supply)_ | | |one well about 20 feet deep, from | | |which about fifteen gallons can be | | |got. Reported never to fail. | | | | | |Track slight N. of E., soil | | |getting sandy barren, much thorn | | |and scrub. | | | | 14 | 163½ |Jebel Lado visible about 25 miles | | |to S. of E. Track again slightly | | |to S. of E. and country still | | |barren and desolate. | | | | 9½ | 173 |An abandoned Belgian post. | | | _Small well_ | ½ | 173½ |Very limited supply of water, | | |about two gallons obtainable per | | |hour with much difficulty. | | | Khor | 22 | 195½ |Large khor comes in from Bahr El | | |Jebel. | | | | | |Track last 20 miles about E. and | | |up khor country still a | | |wilderness. | | | _Kiro, Belgian| 3 | 198½ |To N.E. or khor on river edge. A Post_ | | |now dry khor bounds post to N. | | |Post consists of extensive | | |collection of brick built houses | | |and huts, and has accommodation | | |for several hundred men. | | |Surrounded by wooden stockade. | | | Anglo-Egyptian| 3 | 201½ |To N. of Belgian Post on water’s Post | | |edge, stands well above river and | | |surrounded by trees. This post was | | |abandoned in May, 1901. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- N.B.—Distances probably slightly exaggerated, specially from Amadi, as far from there we generally marched by night on account of scarcity of water. There is only one river worth calling so, between Amadi and the Nile, that is River Tafari, though several dry beds of khors were crossed, which may be considerable streams in rains. River Tafari is said to run into Nile S. of Shambe. 67.—RUMBEK ACROSS NAAM TO AWODI. BY CAPTAIN E. H. ARMSTRONG, FEBRUARY, 1903. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Rumbek | — | — | | | | | 6 | 6 |First 1½ hours E.S.E., same as | | |Shambe road, then ¾ mile S.E. | 2 | 8 |through burnt village of Adole, | | |and along N. of M’Bure Makwoj, | | |then S.W. through scrubby trees | | |and low marshy ground to khor with | | |_pool and two wells_, 1¼ hours | | |more. From there road S. along E. | 4 | 12 |of khor, which has bamboo in it, | | |for 1½ hours; cross khor, and | | |after ½ hour reach Malit, which is | | |close to khor, and has wells and _Malit | 8 | 20 |pools in rains. Malit occupies a (wells)_ | | |large extent of country, but very | | |few houses in it. Apparently | | |different portions of the village | | |have their own names, such as | | |Mabei and Mading. | | | _Well_ | 2 | 22 |From there road to Iyen, S.E., | | |cross khor again, distance 2 | | |miles; plenty of water both in | | |khor and one well. Iyen joins | | |villages of Ateru and Damadar, | | |which extend from it in S.S.E. | | |direction. The cattle mera of all | | |these villages is called Tenit, | | |and much difficulty is experienced | | |in making enquiries about | | |district, as any of the above | | |names may be used for the | | |district. The Jurs are close to | | |Malit, on S.W. side. Beyond Mading | | |are following villages, or parts | | |of villages, in S. direction, | | |viz.:—Feniar, M’Bure-atit, Lair- | | |achetit, Fanagir, Makur, Panicho, | | |and Rumbel (?). I have not been to | | |them, but the above is the order | | |of position from N. to S. | | | | 4 | 26 |From Ateru road to River Naam | | |direction slightly N.E., passing _River Naam_ | 6 | 32 |through, after 1 hour, villages of | | |Paniol and Matiang, both burnt to | | |the ground. Naam River reached | | |after 3 hours, the forest | | |approaching within 1½ hours of | | |river. From there road E., across | 4 | 36 |valley to forest on E. side. River | | |here winds very much, and is close | | |to trees on E. bank. Track across | | |plain, rough, and in summer is | | |entirely under water. | | | | | |From here southerly road was taken | | |along edge of forest for ½ hour, | | |then through forest extending out | | |W. towards river; road good. After | 5 | 41 |another ½ hour pass through burnt | | |village of Awog. Here road turns _Fort Ayak_ | 4 | 45 |slightly westward on to old Fort | | |Ayak, another 1½ hours. Fort in | | |good position, overlooking river, | | |which then passes quite close | | |underneath; level of fort about 20 | | |feet above river. Site seems very | | |good, but natives say a great deal | | |more rain falls than at Rumbek. | | |Ditch and parapet still in good | | |order; fort square shaped, sides | 8 | 53 |about 300 by 400 yards. Road from | | |here starts S.E., after ½ hour S., | | |over red sandstone, with steep | | |descent to river, and along edge | | |of forest S. (river here bends | | |away to W.) to cattle mera at edge | | |of forest, which here again juts | | |out in point and is close to | | |river; distance from Ayak, 2½ | 3 | 56 |hours. Half an hour further back, | | |at re-entering angle of forest, is | | |road, E. and then S.E., to village | 1 | 57 |of Awao, 1 hour from river valley. | | |From Billing, in another | | |direction, S.E. then S., along | | |edge of forest and close to river, | | |with steep rocky banks, very | | |similar to road ½ hour S. of Ayak. | | |After 1 hour from village is road | | |to left, to village of Awao, ¼ | | |hour distant. Large village with | | |cattle and sheep mera at S. end. | | |(Road S., along river, continues | | |close to edge of forest for 13 | | |more miles, to khor where cattle | | |were captured by late Major | | |Hunter.) | | | _Lam_ | 9 | 66 |From Awao road due E., over steep | | |rocky hill, and onward over high | 3 | 69 |ground, in places boggy, to | | |village Lam, 3 hours. Valley S. of | | |road and of Awao grows much | | |bamboo. Lam is a small village; | | |rain-water pools along road in | | |summer. Village of Awodi 1 hour | | |further on; large village | | |extending E. and N. from above | | |road. At N. end zeriba and tobacco | | |plantation; about ten deep wells, _Awodi_ | 3 | 72 |3 miles more. | | | | | |From here party was sent out N.E., | | |and found so-called River Laik, | | |then dry; no water found even by | 5 | 77 |digging, but I fancy the natives | | |know where to find water. This is | 6 | 83 |the same watercourse as the M’Buri | | |of Feniar, on Shambe road; it is | | |about 5 miles N.E. of Awodi, and 6 | | |miles further E. is village of | | |Rumbel; no water found there. | | |Probably the inhabitants during | | |dry season migrate with their | | |cattle to River Dok or Lau. --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- 68.—RUMBEK TO MANGI’S VILLAGE. BY COL.-SERGEANT BOARDMAN, MARCH, 1903. --------------+--------------------+---------------------------------- | Miles. | Place. +-------------+------+ Description. |Intermediate.|Total.| --------------+-------------+------+---------------------------------- Rumbek | — | — |Marched from Rumbek on 11th | | |February, through Runga (Jurs) _Khor Abeir_ | 7 | 7 |S.W., then W.S.W. to wells, across | | |Khor Abeir. Pretty spot under high | | |trees, several large mongoose at | | |well. Halted ½ mile further on, | | |country open and park-like. | | |General direction S.W., country | | |open forest and waste ground, then | | |up steep hill into forest. Halted | | |for ten minutes at well. | | | _Sheikh | 11 | 18 |On to Sheikh Kali’s, a neat Kali’s_ | | |village, 13 houses round a tree, | | |Gemmeiza el Beit. Bamboo growing | | |all around. Water obtained from | | |wells. Road continues S.W. and S. | | |for one hour, and S.E. for half an | | |hour, ground sloping S. across | | |successive belts of bamboo, open | | |ground, and somewhat open forest; | | |then S. and S.W. over ridge to | | |village of Sheikh Gol, Then S.W. 1 | | |mile across low ground. At 8 | | |miles, road to Chums, S.W. Road | | |continues S. along deleib valley | | |for about 11 miles—many deleib | | |palms, open forest, some large _Khor Gulma_ | 13 | 31 |trees—across two small khors. Past | | |burnt zeriba, Gol; merchant named | | |Kayali on river, after 10 miles. | | |Ground in deleib plain slopes W. | | |to Khor Gulma. Moved on S. and | | |S.E., skirting Khor Gulma, then Sheikh Ding | 1 | 32 |smaller khor on W. of it, and (Wakil of Gol)| | |halted at Sheikh Ding. Then S.W. 2 | | |miles through thin forest and | | |village, and on slightly S. to _Sheikh Ri_ | 5 | 37 |village of Sheikh Ri; halted just | | |beyond in forest. Water about a | | |mile N.E. From here marched S. | | |through forest, villages, and | | |across three khors; after one hour Sheikh Marain | 4½ | 41½ |dura of Sheikh Marain (Wakil of | | |Ri), and his village (from here | | |village of Moinyeng about 20 miles | | |N.E.). At first ground sloping to | | |E., but after village crossed low | | |ridge. | | | | | |Continued S. 1 mile, then W. and | | |S.W. along low ground for one and | | |a half hours, then S. and S.E. for | | |another one and a half hours; road | | |continues S. for 2½ miles more, | | |crossing low ground. Halted E. of | | |_water_. In three places on march | | |low ground must be marshy in | | |rains. Continued E. for 2 miles, | | |then E. and N.E. for 1 mile along | | |N. of khor, ground sloping from S. | | |to N. through forest and village, | | |then E. for 1 mile to dura of _Sheikh | 13½ | 55 |Sheikh Dogbei; water found on N. Dogbei_ | | |near road, then S.E. to more dura | | |and few houses, on through village | | |S. to wells; halted under tree on | | |rising ground. Then S.W. for 1 | | |mile along edge of forest, and W. | | |for 1½ miles, round N. of kopje, | | |then S. across low ground; here | | |road continues S, W. and W. for 1½ | | |miles round rocky hills, along | | |side of forest, and close to (W. _Sheikh Kolli_| 5 | 60 |of) another khor, then strikes S., (deserted | | |across khor to wells, called village) | | |village of Sheikh Kolli, but | | |village deserted long ago. | | |Indifferent water, but near the | | |surface, and frequented by game. | | | | | |Continued S.W. for 1 mile, and 2 | | |miles W. and S.W., over high open | | |ground at first, then to left | | |through forest, on S.W. for ½ | | |mile, passing rocky hill, right- | | |handed, then W. for 1 mile, | | |passing other rocky hills, left- | | |handed, which overlook valley to | | |W., S. and E., the highest is 80 | | |to 100 feet above ridge itself; | | |high ground N., and on R. slopes | | |in wooded ridges to W. and sheer _Village of | 5 | 65 |S. Village of Abui N. and W., Sheikh Abui_ | | |raided by Nyam Nyams. Halted at | | |tobacco plantation. Water in holes | | |in rocks, plentiful and excellent. | | |From rocky ridge excellent view to | | |W., showing successive banks of | | |trees running S.E. to N.W., then | | |S. and N.,. representing lines of | | |khors and rivers, or their | | |tributaries. Then back to two | | |tukls of Sheikh Abui, and | | |continued W. and S.W., passing | | |through belt of fine trees on to | | |village (Khartan) and across khor. | | |From here S. and S.E., passing a | | |patch of flat rocks through | | |forest, then S. and S.W., up | | |rising ground, through open | | |forest, and S.W. for 1 mile; W. | | |for 1 mile, and then S.W. again. | | |Continued W. and S.W.,. over high | | |ground, at first open forest, then | | |clump of fine trees, gradually to | | |S., scrubby forest and much burnt. _R. Roa_ or | 13 | 78 |Then S. down to dry khor with high _Gell_ | | |grass, which apparently runs W. | | |into River Roa or Gell. Water in | | |pools to E. and W. | | | | | |Crossed khor S. and then S.W. | | |After 2 miles of burnt and open | | |forest, crossed khor running S.E. | | |and N.W, and after 4 miles came to | | |belt of high trees, some of the | | |large leaf kind, here the ground | | |becomes low and covered with high | | |grass on R. Guide took us round N. | | |side of it, and brought us to | | |river more than two hours earlier | | |than was expected. Here we found | | |there was no road. Guide had taken | | |wrong road, had to find way back, | | |S.E. and E., through high grass, | | |then along path through forest to | | |S., and then halted for | | |information. Could get none, went | | |on without hamla and found spot by | 5 | 83 |river and sent for hamla. | | | | | |Continued S.W. and then S., along | | |edge of forest; on the left hand | | |river several times came close, | | |rocky banks and pretty, plain on | | |R. varying in breadth, according | | |to whether spurs of high ground | | |and forest run out into it, or | | |whether joined by flat grassy | | |khors; crossed several small ones | | |on river bank, and came to a _pool | | |in khor_; halted for 15 minutes. | | |Continued across similar ridge of | | |forest burnt in places, then came | | |to another big pond in khor; | | |direction of march still S. | | | | | |Moved along E. of pond and found | | |the khor which runs from E. to W.; | | |deep channel of water with broken | | |muddy banks, crossed it a little | | |higher up by filling in with grass | | |and branches; mules and all | | |crossed easily. From there road | 11 | 94 |slightly W. of S., across similar | | |ridges, crossing one broad dry | | |khor, _halted on ridge_ 300 _yards | | |from river_; crossed Khor-el-Said | | |and continued across spur of hill | | |covered with burnt forest for 3 | | |miles; direction S. and slightly | | |W. of S., then came on khor | | |running S. and S.E.; turned left | | |along it and came on bend of | | |river; rocky bed with cataract, | | |rocks cut into long channels by | 5 | 99 |flow of water, banks steep, high | | |grass on far side. Had to unload | | |animals and pass over everything | | |by hand, river nearly bridged by | | |rocks, but very uneven. Marched on | | |again, going W., through high | | |grass till meeting track after ½ | | |mile, then S. along side of ridge | | |with spurs running down to river, | | |sometimes small open plain near | | |river. After another mile passed | | |over old zeriba of Abu Samat (1½ | | |miles after crossing river). On in | | |same direction, and struck river | 5 | 104 |again near khor, pretty spot; then | | |on across open low ground to | | |another spur on which we halted. | | |River runs S.E. from here. | | |Continued S.W.W. into dense | | |forest, partly burnt, no track; | | |crossed spurs of two ridges with | | |small sandy khors in valleys. | | | | | |Then marched S.W. along a ridge | | |for one hour and a quarter; ground | | |here slopes down E., with thick | | |belt of tress on a hill about 3 | | |miles E., then over deep sandy | | |khor up rocky hill. Continued S. | | |up steep hill, view all round; | | |high ridges covered with large | | |trees; after 1 mile went down to | | |valley, crossed deep rocky khor, | | |little water in pool. Khor going | | |W. to N.E. Continuing S., crossed | | |valley and camped on high | 8½ | 112½ |tableland; _water in khor below_. | | | | | |Marched again S., and after | | |quarter of an hour reached a deep | | |narrow khor; halted and cut away | | |banks to cross animals; water in | | |pool to E. (left). Continued S., | | |crossed wide grassy khor after 1 | | |mile going W. to E., then one hour | | |over high rocky ground with tall | | |grass; thin forest; crossed small | | |khor (W. to E.), then low ground | | |with tall grass and thick shrubs. | | |Striking old track of Nyam Nyams, | | |very indistinct, marched S. of W. | | |for 1 mile over rising ground and | | |through thick forest, then S.W., | | |passing end of deep gorge which | | |runs E.; lost track and marched | | |S.W. over rocky ridge, crossed two | | |small sandy khors about 50 yards | | |apart, running parallel S.W. to | | |N.E. Continued S.W.S., crossed | | |gorge after 1 mile, then fairly | | |level ground, rocky. Again struck | | |track and followed it; ground | | |drops to the E. Continued S.W., | | |and after half hour crossed a wide | | |khor, tall grass, running W. to E. | | |Two mountains, Angaliri, in Bongo | | |country, can be seen about 40 | | |miles E. of here. | | | | | |Continued S.W. along rocky ridge, | | |went down to Khor Mugei, water | | |running N.E. to S.W. This khor is | | |about 12 yards wide with tall | | |grassy plain each side, and | | |apparently drains hills over which | | |I passed during the day and runs | | |into River Leizi. Thick forest Mount Yara, | 16½ | 129 |nearly the whole way. Mount Yara, _Khor Mugei_ | | |a large hump-shaped mountain, | | |covered with trees, about 2 miles | | |across khor S.W.W. Halted here for | | |the night. Marched in the morning | | |S., along E. side of khor, for | | |half hour through tall grass and | | |few bushes, then S.S.E. for half | | |hour, ridges to left (E.). After 4 | | |miles turned W. of S. over ridge, | | |thickly covered with large trees, | | |undergrowth burnt, 5½ miles; then | | |down to valley, very open ground | | |covered with burnt grass and large | | |ant hills, with dry khor in | | |centre; valley about 1½ miles | | |wide, several large trees. Mts. | | |Angaliri can be seen from here | | |N.E. Carriers say they are near | | |(60 miles N.E. of) Hmadi. | | |Continuing S. struck path going | | |S.W., followed it along valley, | | |crossed khor, dry, and marching _River Leizi, | 11 | 140 |through tall grass came to River Sheikh Sango_ | | |Leizi, narrow, high banks, | | |overhung by trees, dry at ford; | | |crossed and entered village of | | |Sheikh Sango (slaves of Nyam | | |Nyams), wakil of Sheikh Agadamba, | | |who is under Sultan Mangi. Here | | |natives bolted; village stands on | | |rise and fairly open ground. Tribe | | |Homr from Babikr. | | | | | |Marched again and crossed khor, | | |then over slight rise; burnt | | |forest of young trees. Met party _Sheikh | 10½ | 150½ |from Sheikh Agadamba; crossed khor Agadamba_ | | |running W. to E., little water, | | |ground drops to E., large ridge in | | |distance S. of E., then over | | |slight rise, small forest, and | | |crossed small khor (W. to E.); | | |then over spur of hill and came to | | |wells, open ground with young lulu | | |trees. Continued S.S.W. over steep | | |hill covered with thick forest | | |into valley, fairly open; crossed | | |khor, little water, over small | | |rise, another small khor (W. to | | |E.), then through dense forest S., | | |crossing rocky khor and, turning | | |E., entered village of Sheikh | | |Agadamba, tribe Geate, from near | | |Yambio, slaves of Mangi (son of | | |Yambio); passed through village | | |and camped on Khor Reishinda | | |beyond, 10½ miles, running S.W. to | | |N.E. into River Leizi (natives | | |inform me that River Leizi runs | | |into River Merridi (Gell or Roa.)) | | |Sheikh Bangi, son of Mangi, from | | |Kawa village Reisha, two days S.E. | | |from here, tribe Abakas, came in | | |here and does not seem very | | |willing to give information. | | |Continued W. through village, | | |houses scattered in the thick of | | |forest, and one house cannot be | | |seen from another. | | | | | |Turning S. crossed Khor Reishinda | | |(S.W. to N.E.), then over rise, | | |young forest, dense undergrowth, | | |slopes W. towards khor; ridges in | | |distance (W.). Forest thickens as | | |we advance, several small open | | |spaces. Continuing S.W., passed | | |old village of Sheikh Agadamba, | | |M’bagi; met party sent from Mangi; | | |reached Khor M’bagi, water running | | |from W. and bends S.E. Mount | | |M’bagi 3 miles E. from here, cone- | | |shaped and rocky mountain, few | | |trees, about 100-150 feet above | | |ridge. Continuing S., passed foot | | |W. of Mt. Umbumbamba, oval-shaped | | |and few large trees on crest, | | |about 150 feet high; then over | | |ridge W. of S. past dura fields, | | |crossed rocky (granite) ridge W. | | |of E. named Parkpe, and halted on _B’bonga Khor | 11 | 161½ |outskirts of village B’bonga near Zaza_ | | |Khor Zaza, rocky khor running N.E. | | |to S.W. into River Ibba, little | | |water in rocky pools; inhabitants | | |of village recently moved E.; | | |ridges of trees to E. and W. | | | | | |Continued S. and crossed Khor | | |Zaza, on to ridge, thick forest | | |continuing W. of S.; after half | | |hour ground slopes E. to khor | | |about 200 yards wide, thick weeds. | | |Path runs parallel with khor, high | | |ridges the far side(E.). Continued | | |S.W. over high rocky ridge down to | | |bend of River Ibba, 40 yards wide | | |here, sandy bottom, winding in _River Ibba_ | 4 | 165½ |S.S.W. direction. | | | | | |Marched S.W. over ridge and came | | |upon river again, after crossing | | |open ground in valley. River here | | |bends N.W.W., banks very steep, | | |about 3 feet deep, and 12 yards | | |wide; a swing bridge crosses river | | |here from N. bank to a tree on S. | | |bank. Unloaded and cut away banks | | |to cross, as bridge does not | | |appear very secure. Crossed and | | |camped on S. side in hollow open | | |plain, with cliffs about 40 feet | | |high running parallel with and | | |about 300 yards from river. Tall | | |grass which I burnt before | | |camping. Climbed cliff and | | |obtained following view:—_i.e._, | | |Mts. M’bagi and Umbumbamba stand | | |out very clearly N.E., with ridges | | |of trees running W. to E. and N. | | |to S. River winds towards N.W., | | |with grassy plain on either bank, | | |skirted on N. bank by forest, S. | | |bank by cliff and forest. View | | |S.E. obstructed by trees. | | | | | |Marched on E. along foot of cliff | | |for 1 mile, then unloaded and | | |climbed cliffs. Continued S.W. | | |over ridge, young forest; after 15 | | |minutes an old deserted village of | | |Sheikh Agadamba. Path to Yango | | |(E.) from here; for half an hour | | |through village, then down to Khor | | |Bendawari, very marshy, about 200 | | |yards wide, tall weeds; then along | | |edge of khor S.S.W. for half hour, | | |ground rising on far side of khor | | |(E.). Khor then bends S.W., and | | |path turns S. across it and enters | | |forest of large trees, lulu type, | | |undergrowth burnt; marched through | | |forest S.W., several open spaces; | | |then through thin forest and down | | |to W. over fairly open ground, and _Khor | 7½ | 173 |crossed Khor Mungongo and camped Mungongo, | | |on far side at 8.45 a.m. near Sheikh Tum_ | | |village of Sheikh Tum, Wakil of | | |Mangi tribe Agbea. Went on alone | | |to village named after Sheikh, | | |found very little water in well, | | |houses scattered and very thickly | | |populated, so decided to camp at | | |khor and await messenger. Sheikh | | |Zumio, son of Mangi, village | | |Mazura between Khors Korsi and | | |Mukongo, near village (deserted) | | |Penio—tribes Baminda and | | |Abunangi—came in; his district | | |runs from River Ibba, below Penio, | | |and W. along Benza’s district; | | |seems very intelligent, and says | | |he is anxious to be friendly to | | |government. | | | | | |Marched S.W. up slope of hill, | | |then E. round E. side of Mts. | | |Bandilia, high rocky mountains | | |covered with short grass, then | | |down W. of S. and crossed Khor | | |Wure Mangonga; this khor flows | | |into Khor Yur; fairly open ground | | |at first through village, then | | |young burnt forest. Continuing | | |S.W. crossed Khor Tozo, open | | |ground, marshy, then over ridge, | | |bushy country; ground slopes E. to | | |plain, with thick belt of trees on | | |ridge in distance (N. to S.). | | | | | |Going S. over rising ground,