The Project Gutenberg eBook of London Cries & Public Edifices, by Luke Limner.

The Tinker is swinging his fire-pot to make it burn, having placed his soldering-iron in it, and is proceeding to some corner or post, there to repair the saucepan he carries.—We commence with the most interesting edifice in our capital,

THE TOWER OF LONDON;

the fortress, the palace, and prison, in which so many events, connected with the history of our country, have transpired. The building with four towers in the centre is said to have been erected by William the Conqueror, and is the oldest part of the fortress. The small bell-tower in the front of our picture is that of the church of St. Peter’s, (the tower being a parish itself,) on the Tower Green, erected in the reign of Edward I. Our view is taken from Tower Hill, near which was the scaffold on which so many have fallen. To the left of the picture stood the grand storehouse of William III., destroyed by fire, Nov. 1841.

The Regalia is deposited here, and exhibited to the public, as is also the Horse Armoury. The present constable of the Tower is the Duke of Wellington.{2}

RHUBARB!—FINE TURKEY RHUBARB!

This drug is carried about for sale by Turks, often habited in the costume of their country. They are Turkish Jews, as Mahomedans seldom travel. The mode of fixing his caftan also indicates him to be one; it is fastened on the left: the Turks make a distinction by adjusting theirs on the right.

THE EAST INDIA HOUSE

is situated in Leadenhall Street: it was built in 1726, and afterwards enlarged, in 1798, by Mr. Jupp, who erected the present front, the pediment of which, by Bacon, exhibits an allegory of the Company, under the protection of George III.: on the apex is a statue of Britannia; on the right hand is a figure of Asia, and on the left one of Europe. Here is conducted all the official business relating to the Company, which now rules a population of 85,000,000 natives of India, besides 51,000,000 who are directly or indirectly affected by them. It contains a Library and Museum, open to the public, free, on Saturdays.

MATCHES!—BUY A BOX OF MATCHES OF A POOR GIRL!

Of all the poor itinerants of London the Match-sellers are the poorest, and subsist as much by donations as by the sale of their wares. The old match, a splinter of wood, with ends dipped in brimstone, is fast disappearing before the modern lucifer or congreve. The poor creature here represented is appealing to a lady and gentleman, (whose shadows are seen in the picture,) on their way to the

BANK OF ENGLAND.

This great national establishment was erected in 1788 by Sir John Soane: it covers about eight acres of ground, and consists of nine open courts, almost all the rooms being on the ground-floor, lighted from above, beneath which are very extensive cellars, used for the deposit of bullion. This building is raised on the course of the ancient stream of Wall-Brook. In the Pay-Hall, where the notes are issued and exchanged, is a marble statue of William III., founder of the Bank, by Cheere. The Court-Room windows overlook a piece of ground, laid out as a garden: this was formerly the churchyard of St. Christopher’s; nearly the whole of this parish is within the walls of the Bank, the church having been removed in 1780, after the riots. The Bank of England is isolated from all other buildings, and fire-proof.{4}

ORANGES!—BUY ORANGES AND LEMONS!

Here is a poor Irish boy endeavouring to dispose of his oranges to some passengers outside an omnibus, in Cornhill, near the

ROYAL EXCHANGE.

The merchants used, in olden times, to meet in Lombard Street, until Sir Thomas Gresham built the first edifice here, in 1567, from the designs of Henrick, a Fleming, who, it is said, made constant journeys from London to Flanders, to obtain materials and workmen. All the stone, slate, iron, wainscot, and glass, came from Antwerp; so that the first Exchange might be considered a Dutch building. This pile was burnt down at the Fire of London, in 1666, and a second Exchange was built on the old site, by Gernan, the first stone of which was laid by Charles II., and was completed in 1669, at an expense of £59,000, and was again destroyed by fire in 1838. The present edifice occupies the same spot, of which Prince Albert laid the first stone; and it was opened, with great display, by her Majesty, Queen Victoria, in October, 1844, during the mayoralty of Sir W. Magnay. It is from a design by William Tite; the pediment, seen in the drawing, is by R. Westmacott, Jun.

BUY A CAGE FOR YOUR FINE SINGING-BIRD!

These little prisons are principally manufactured and sold by foreigners, who have them of all sizes and shapes (to suit the nature and habits of the little captive melodists).

THE MANSION-HOUSE

is the official residence of the Lord Mayor of London during his mayoralty; it is situated at the west end of Cornhill, in Mansion-House Street.

When it was first resolved, by the Common Council, to build the Mansion-House, Lord Burlington sent a design of Palladio, for their approbation and adoption. The first question in court was, not as to the applicability of the plan, but as to whether Palladio was a freeman of the city or no. Some discussion ensued, and a member rose, stating it little mattered, as it was notorious that Palladio was a Papist, and incapable as a matter of course. Lord Burlington’s proposal was rejected, and the design of a freeman and Protestant adopted. The architect was originally a shipwright, and it has been likened to a deep-laden Indiaman. The portico is supported by six Corinthian columns. On the pediment is an allegory of the wealth of London. Here the Lord Mayor holds his court, as chief magistrate of the city. It was erected in 1753.{6}

OLD CHAIRS TO MEND!—RUSH OR CANE BOTTOMS—OLD CHAIRS TO MEND!

This artificer does not necessarily pay much rent for workshops, as he commences operations with his canes or rushes up the nearest court or gateway; or, if the chairs are not wanted in a great hurry, asks permission to take them home, that he may work them in his back-room with more convenience, returning them to their owners when he next comes his rounds.

THE OLD COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS, WARWICK LANE,

was erected in 1674, from designs by Sir Christopher Wren, and consists of a quadrangular court. The room over the gateway, surmounted by a cupola and crowned with a ball, was the Lecture Theatre. In the court-yard, which has been roofed in, and is now used as a butchers’ market, are statues of Charles II. and Sir J. Cutler. The building is now occupied by a coppersmith. Warwick Lane is chiefly tenanted by slaughtermen and carcase-butchers, being near to Newgate Market. Our view is taken from Paternoster Row, the literary mart of the world. The new College of Physicians is situated in Pall Mall East.

CATS’ MEAT!—DOGS’ MEAT!

The food for these domestic animals is sold about London from barrows or small carts, and consists generally of the flesh of horses. As the vendor approaches, the cats or dogs bound out at the well-known cry, often forming such a group as we have here, in

SMITHFIELD;

which is the only cattle market in London. It was formerly situated just without the city walls. It has been used as a cattle market since 1150, and was then, as we have stated, in the fields, but is now in the very heart of London. Our view was taken on Friday afternoon, during the horse market. Hay and straw are sold here on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays. In the background may be seen the tower of the church of St. Bartholomew the Less, and the entrance to Bartholomew’s Hospital: the present building was erected in 1730. Immediately above the gateway of the hospital is seen the dome of

ST. PAUL’S CATHEDRAL,

for a nearer view of which we turn to the title-page. It was built by Sir Christopher Wren, on the site of the former, (burnt in the great fire,) and cost £736,000: it took thirty-five years building, the expenses of which were raised by a duty on coals.{8}

DUST OH!—DUST OH!

The costume of the Dustman bears a strong resemblance to that of the coalheaver, who appears to be of the same family, probably through their both being connected with the same material, the one before it is burnt, the other after. They formerly rang a bell to intimate their approach, but made so much noise therewith, as to cause the legislature to interfere, prohibiting its use.

ST. JOHN’S GATE, CLERKENWELL.

This building is the only relic of that once powerful military order of monks, St. John of Jerusalem. The priory was established about 1100, but it was forty years after this that they became a military order, and the noblest of the time sought admission into its ranks. In the thirteenth century they were said to possess thirteen thousand manors, in various Christian lands. The house was suppressed by Henry VIII., who used it as a military storehouse. In the reign of James I. the gate was given to Sir Roger Wilbraham. Here, in 1730, Cave printed the “Gentleman’s Magazine,” which still bears a view of the gate on its cover; it is now used as a public-house, and called the Old Jerusalem Tavern. It has lately been partially restored by voluntary subscriptions.

PITY THE POOR BLIND!

The blind must gain a livelihood, as well as those who are blest with sight; but, alas! how few are the arts which can be performed by one so bereft: hence the necessity of an appeal to the benevolent—“Pity the poor blind!” He sells cabbage-nets, kettle-holders, or laces, doubtless the work of his own hands in the evenings, which we term “blindman’s holiday.”—We are proceeding along Fleet Street, soon to pass under

TEMPLE BAR,

which is the only remaining city gate. It was built in 1670, by Sir Christopher Wren, after the great fire. On this, the city side, are statues of James and Anne of Denmark; on the other are Charles I. and II. The gate is now only closed on such occasions as the Queen going in state to the city, when she is not admitted until the pursuivant has knocked and permission been granted by the Lord Mayor.

On the top of this gate were formerly exhibited the heads of traitors: the last exposed here were those of persons who suffered after the rebellion of 1745.

Horace Walpole, in a letter dated 16th Aug., 1746, says, “I have this morning been at the Tower, and passed under the new heads at Temple Bar, where people make a trade of letting spy-glasses, at a halfpenny each, to view them.” One of the iron spikes remained till the present century.{10}

UMBRELLAS TO MEND!—ANY OLD ONES TO SELL!

During the day the Umbrella-mender goes his rounds, repeating these words, “Umbrellas to mend! Sixpence apiece for your old broken umbrellas!” and, having collected enough, he returns home to patch and mend, after which he or some of his family hawks them about for sale. Here he appears in his glory, under the auspices of St. Swithen, the patron saint of umbrella and patten-maker. It is the Strand, near

SOMERSET HOUSE.

On this site formerly stood Somerset Palace, built by Edward Seymour, Duke of Somerset, about 1549. The present building was begun in 1774, after a design by Sir W. Chambers. The Strand front is one hundred and thirty feet long, has a rustic basement supporting Corinthian columns, and is crowned in the centre with an attic, surmounted by a group consisting of the arms of Britain supported by the genius of England and Fame. Nine large arches compose the basement, three of which open into the court. The key-stones are nine masks, representing the ocean and the eight chief rivers of England. In the quadrangle, directly fronting the entrance, is a bronze figure of the Thames, by Bacon; also a statue of George III. It has a Thames front, with a spacious terrace and water-gate.

CHERRIES, ROUND AND SOUND!—FULL WEIGHT, FOURPENCE A POUND!

Of cherries there are a great variety; most come from the county of Kent, and are sold in the streets of London, sometimes as low as one penny per pound! the sellers of which are often addicted to giving short weight, as their customers apprehend, hence the cry of “full weight.”

COVENT-GARDEN MARKET.

The ground on which this market stands belonged to the Abbots of Westminster, and was called Convent Garden. On the destruction of the monasteries it was given to the Duke of Somerset; and, after his misfortunes, was granted to the Earl of Bedford, in 1552, who let it for building, and Inigo Jones designed the piazza, a portion of which occupies the north and part of the east sides. The origin of the market was casual. Persons came here, and stood in the centre of the square, until it grew to the establishment of a market, which consisted of rough sheds until about 1830, when the present market was built by the Duke of Bedford. One part is devoted to vegetables, and others to fruits, flowers, and plants.{12}

THE COSTARD-MONGER

(so called from an apple of that name) is an itinerant vendor of garden stuff. He mostly transports his vegetable wares in a cart drawn by a donkey. His cry varies with the seasons and their produce: at one time we have “Cabbage plants,” “New potatoes,” or “Asparagus;” at another, “Fine young peas, fresh gathered,” “Ripe rhubarb,” “Baking or boiling apples:” he is now calling “Gooseberries! fourpence an ale-house quart, gooseberries!” In the background is a seller of

HEARTHSTONES AND FLANDERS BRICK.

Punch’s opera is proceeding along Bow Street with dog Toby in the rear, from whose petty stage we turn to one of the largest in the metropolis,

COVENT-GARDEN THEATRE.

The former theatre was burnt down, Sept. 20, 1808, and the present one erected on its site, at a cost of £150,000, by R. Smirke, R.A., who has taken as his model the temple of Minerva at Athens, and the first stone was laid in September, 1809, by George IV., then Prince of Wales. It was built with great rapidity, having been completed in less than a year after the destruction of the former building. Along the front are basso-relievos representing the ancient and modern drama; and in niches at either end figures of Comedy and Tragedy, by Flaxman.

IMAGES!—BUY IMAGES.

The dealers in these articles are mostly Italians. The class of subjects sold in the streets were formerly of common-place interest, such as a parrot, horse, cat, or cow, but our vendor has some of a higher class—the Farnese Hercules, Baily’s Eve at the Fountain, Cupid and Psyche, Chantrey’s bust of Sir Walter Scott, &c. See, there is a Greenwich pensioner directing the attention of a young sailor to the Nelson column: he is perhaps describing the victory of the Nile or Trafalgar. There is a student of the Royal Academy observing their movements, very likely to introduce the scene in his next picture.

TRAFALGAR SQUARE

is an open space, bounded on the north by the National Gallery of Pictures and the Royal Academy of Arts, on the east by St. Martin’s Church, south by Northumberland House and Charing Cross, and on the west by the new College of Physicians: in the centre is the Nelson column; on either side are fountains. The National Gallery was built in 1837, by Sir W. Wilkins. St. Martin’s Church was erected in 1722, by Gibbs: Nell Gwyn, who was buried here, left a weekly entertainment to the bell-ringers, which they still enjoy. The Admiralty being in the parish, it is usual to announce naval victories from the belfry of this church.{14}

BAKED POTATOES, ALL HOT!

How VERY cold it is! the Potato-merchant jumps about to warm his feet. It is fine time for the boys; they are pelting each other with snowballs. The drayman leads his team with care, lest they should slip on the icy road. See the snow on the statue of Charles; it recalls to mind the burial of that unfortunate monarch,—the snow that fell then was looked upon as type of his innocence.

CHARING CROSS.

So named, from a cross erected there by Edward I., to commemorate his affection for his beloved queen, Eleanor. The cross marked the last resting-place of the body on its way to Westminster: the exact spot is now occupied by the equestrian statue of Charles I.; it is in bronze, and was executed by Le Sœur, in 1633, for the Earl of Arundel.

NORTHUMBERLAND HOUSE,

the town residence of the Duke of Northumberland, forms one side of Trafalgar Square. It was built by Henry Howard, Earl of Northampton, in whose time it was called Northampton House. In 1643 it fell to Algernon Earl of Northumberland, by marriage; since then it has been called Northumberland House. The only part seen from the street is the screen, which was repaired about 1752, but supposed to have been built in the reign of Edward VI. On the top is a lion passant. A spacious court intervenes between this and the house, behind which are extensive gardens reaching down to the river. Bernard Jansen was architect of this ancient house, to which Inigo Jones erected a fourth side.

BOW POTS! (OR BAY POTS!) TWO A PENNY!

They are mostly sold by women, who obtain them from Covent-Garden Market or from nurserymen in the suburbs, and are offered to the lovers of nature in the more dense parts of our city. You perceive it is warm weather—a glorious summer’s day; the dust flies, and the watering-cart is about to render it more pleasant. We are in

WHITEHALL,

opposite the Banqueting House. It was begun in 1619, from designs by Inigo Jones, and is only part of a vast plan left unfinished by reason of the troubled times. Here was executed King Charles I. He passed to the scaffold through the north-end wall (to the left of the picture). George I. converted it into a Chapel Royal, for which it is now used: the ceiling was painted by Rubens, in 1629; the subject is the Apotheosis of James I., for which he received £3000. In the square behind is a bronze statue of James II., by Gibbons. The Banqueting House cost about £17,000; and Inigo Jones, the architect, received but 8s. 4d. per day, with £46 per annum for house-rent. The master mason, Nicholas Stone, received 4s. 10d. per day. Such were the wages of architectural labour in those days; though it is true that the value of money was greater then than it is now.{16}

WILD DUCK, RABBIT, OR FOWL!

Wild Ducks from the fens of Lincolnshire; Rabbits from Hampshire, and Poultry from Norfolk. Our dealer has procured his stock at Leadenhall Market, and is now crying them in Piccadilly.

STRAWBERRIES,

from Battersea and Fulham, where they are grown in large quantities, and sent to Covent-Garden Market, from whence the London dealer purchases them in large baskets (called rounds), containing many pottles.

BURLINGTON HOUSE.

We have given the entrance gateway, for no other part of this splendid mansion can be seen from the street. This house was built by Richard Boyle, third Earl of Burlington, (who is said to have erected it there because he was certain no one would build beyond him,) from his own designs, assisted by Kent, who was his intimate friend and companion. It is very large, has a stone front, and a circular Doric colonnade joins the wings. Here were deposited those exquisite specimens of Grecian art, the Elgin Marbles, previous to their purchase by Government and removal to the British Museum.

MACKAREL!—NEW MACKAREL!

Perhaps there are more of this fish sold than any other: they are very plentiful during spring. There is a law that permits of their being sold on Sundays, before divine service, on account of their perishable nature; for it has been stated 10,000 mackarel, worth £200 in the morning, would not be worth twenty shillings on the following day. Here comes the beadle, crossing George Street, to warn off a fish-woman, for it is eleven o’clock by

ST. GEORGE’S, HANOVER SQUARE.

This church was one of fifty, erected by act of Parliament in 1724. John James was the architect. The first stone was laid by General Stewart, with the following ceremony:—Having made a libation of wine, he pronounced these words: “The Lord God of heaven preserve the church of St. George!” It is dedicated to St. George the Martyr, in honour of George I. The subject of the altar-piece is the Last Supper, attributed to Sir James Thornhill. This church is remarkable for the number of fashionable marriages celebrated here.{18}

BUY A BOX!—BUY A BAND-BOX!

These useful articles are mostly the manufacture of the persons who carry them about for sale: they are of all shapes and sizes—cap-boxes, bonnet-boxes, clothes-boxes, &c.

OLD CLOTHES!

“Clo! Clo!!” This is the abbreviated cry of the old clothesman, when going his rounds. The trade is mostly conducted by Jews, who take the morning purchases to Rosemary Lane, (commonly called Rag Fair,) near Tower Hill, where they dispose of them to dealers, who patch, mend, and sell again to the public. Our Jew, judging from his beard and band round his waist, is some dignitary of the synagogue; he has just made a purchase of an old court suit at

ST. JAMES’S PALACE.

It is a plain brick building, and was erected by Henry VIII. in 1551. Queen Anne was the first to hold her court here, since which time it has been uniformly used for that purpose. Here is the Chapel Royal, in which our present Queen was married to Prince Albert: it is used only for purposes of state. King Charles I. passed the last eleven days of his life here, during his trial. A great portion of the south-eastern corner was destroyed by fire, in 1809.

MILK BELOW!

Of dealers in milk there are two classes,—the one keeping cows, the other purchasing from large dairymen in the outskirts, and retailing it on their own account. Their customers mostly live in neighbouring streets, which are called “milk-walks,” and are often disposed of as other trades. It is stated that fifteen thousand cows are necessary to supply London with milk, and it has been calculated that it is usually adulterated one-third. The milk-carriers of London are mostly Welsh girls, and did, until of late, wear the national hat. Our sketch exhibits one of them carrying home the produce of her master’s cows from St. James’s Park, while a man drives a cow and calf from the pasture there; but this is a picture of the past. The park no longer affords pasture for cattle; population has driven them farther away. The background remains the same.

WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

The present church was erected by Henry III. and his successors; the western towers are by Sir Christopher Wren. Behind the altar is the chapel of Edward the Confessor, in which is kept the coronation chair: adjoining is the chapel of Henry V. Around these chapels are nine others, dedicated to various saints. Next to the eastern end of the church stands the chapel of Henry VII. The first stone was laid in Feb., 1503, by Abbot Islop; the building cost £14,000, an enormous sum for the period. It was designed by Sir Reginald Bray. The Abbey contains the monuments of many great men; one spot is occupied by poets, and called “Poets’ Corner.” In the foreground may be seen the tower of the parish church of St. Margaret’s, Westminster.{20}

YOUNG WATER-CRESSES!

The morn has been proclaimed with “Sweep! Soot oh!” The inmate of the downy bed has turned again to slumber—then follows “Milk!” and now comes “Water-cresses!” ’Tis half-past eight; all are up, the door is mopped, and Betty runs to get the usual penny for the poor old dame in Milbank, Westminster. From here we obtain a good view of

LAMBETH PALACE,

which is the principal residence of the Archbishop of Canterbury. It is a very extensive and irregular pile, the principal part of which was built since the thirteenth century, the oldest part being the chapel. The great hall was erected by Archbishop Juxon, about 1600. The gate seen in the picture was built by Cardinal Morton in 1490, in front of which, to this day, is distributed the bishop’s dole, or alms, to thirty poor parishioners of Lambeth, ten of whom are served each day; among them are distributed three stone of beef, ten pitchers of broth, five quartern loaves, and twopence in copper. At the back of this gate is the Lollards’ Prison, a small room of great strength, in which prisoners have been confined for their religious opinions. Adjoining is the parish church of Lambeth.

KNIVES TO GRIND!—SCISSORS TO GRIND!

We here have a grinder executing a job under the entrance gateway to New Square, Lincoln’s Inn; who, if we may judge from the smile of satisfaction playing on his countenance, has had merry work amongst the cleavers of Clare Market, adjacent. Hoping he may find the like success with the pen-knives of the lawyers of Lincoln’s Inn, we wish him “Good day!”

BUY A MAT!—BUY A DOOR OR PARLOUR MAT!

They are manufactured of different materials: rope and rush mats for hall-doors. Parlour and carriage mats are made of sheep-skins, with the wool on, dyed of various hues.

NEW HALL, LINCOLN’S INN,

is situated on the eastern side of Lincoln’s Inn Fields: it is of Tudor architecture, designed by Philip Hardwick, R.A., and consists of an extensive dining-hall, spacious library, and benchers’ drawingroom. It was opened Oct. 30, 1845, by the Queen, accompanied by his Royal Highness Prince Albert. Lincoln’s Inn is one of the principal inns of court.{22}

SWEEP!—SOOT OH!

This trade was, until of late, performed by small boys, who used to climb up chimneys, brushing away the soot as they went, until they arrived at the top, where they performed a rattle of triumph on the sides of the pot. Poor little sweep! your “occupation’s gone;” the term “climbing boy” will soon become obselete, for chimneys are now swept by machines, such as the one on the shoulders of the boy in our picture. He has been his morning’s round, and perceives a chimney on fire, which he is off to extinguish, seeming to enjoy it much, no doubt on account of the extra fee on such occasions. The boys have got out the parish engine and the beadle. It is the 1st of May, the sweeps’ grand day, when they perambulate the streets and collect donations, decked in ribbons and finery, and dance round the ivy bower, called “Jack in the Green,” to a drum and pandean pipes, which revelry seems to be forgotten in the excitement of the moment: the smoke rolls over-head; it must be in Guildford Place, opposite

THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL.

Its name indicates its use. It is a plain brick edifice, with a chapel in the centre, founded, about the year 1722, by Captain Thomas Coram. It covers a large space, and is enclosed within a wall: here the children play. There are about 360, who are educated in a plain manner; and when old enough the boys are apprenticed, and girls put to service.

MUFFINS!—CRUMPETS!—ALL HOT MUFFINS!

This is an evening cry in winter, reminding us of a cheerful fire, curtains drawn, pleasant company, the hissing urn, and a goodly pile of these toasted luxuries hot and tempting. They are sold by boys or men, who carry a small bell, which they ring between the times of calling out their wares. Night is fast approaching, the lamp-lighter is at work, while the last rays of departing day gild the horizon, behind the portico of

THE NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY.

This is the most important line of communication up the country, and the most extensive in the kingdom: it was commenced in 1837, and originally called the “London and Birmingham Railway,” from its ending in that town, 112 miles from London; but it is now the grand trunk line of numerous tributaries. Our view is of the Doric portico at the Euston station, Euston Square; it is built of granite, from a design by Philip Hardwick, R.A., and is 70 feet in height.{24}

BUY A BROOM!

These tasteful articles are cut out of a single piece of wood, and carried about our metropolis by Bavarian women, who sing pleasing ditties in broken English; they are very tidy, and have a picturesque appearance. Here we have one offering a broom to the inmates of a carriage in the Regent’s Park, near

THE COLOSSEUM.

It was erected some few years since for the exhibition of a panorama of London, painted by Mr. Horner, after sketches taken from a scaffold above the dome of St. Paul’s Cathedral, (during the repairs of the ball and cross,) at sunrise, before the lighting of the innumerable fires. This glorious scene has been beautifully described by Wordsworth, in one of his sonnets:—

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