The Project Gutenberg Ebook of Notes taken during travels in Africa by John Davidson

On Saturday, August 29, 1835, we left London by the mail, and arrived the morning following at Exeter, where we went to the cathedral, which Abou called one of the bishops’ churches. We proceeded the same evening to Falmouth, which we reached on Monday 31st. During the journey, Abou’s remarks were highly creditable to him; he expressed himself quite astonished at the rate of travelling, which he had ascertained by comparing the mile-stones we had passed with the time, as indicated by a watch; nor was he less struck with the quickness of changing horses, the punctuality in the arrival of the mail, and the manner in which one bag is delivered, and another received, while the coach is going on. In the whole country, he said very prettily, no place for more than a mile could be seen without a settlement; all is productive: no misery. He wound up his reflections with the words,—‘Good king! good people!—African people all blind: not know their own good, else they would ask Englishmen to come and teach them.’

On Tuesday, Sept. 1, I went with Abou to see the Castle, where the officer on duty put some men through the manual and platoon exercise, and light infantry movements, much to the amusement of Abou, who was not less gratified with the feats of horsemanship exhibited by a company that performed the same evening at the theatre.

[2]On Thursday, Sept. 3d, we went on board the Sarah Nigritia, and got off at one P.M., with the wind a-head and a considerable swell, which produced its usual effect upon many of the passengers, and myself among the number, but poor Abou was the worst of all; during the whole voyage he was absolutely wretched, and quite unable to rally,—a rather bad omen of his power to bear up, should greater difficulties present themselves on land.

On Monday, Sept. 7, we passed Cape Finisterre, running along the shore in comparatively smooth water, but with a heavy swell; and on the 9th we made Cape St. Vincent, and saw, at six P.M. on the morning following, Cadiz rising from the dark blue wave; and at half-past seven anchored in the bay. Some time before the boat came off to give us pratique I had gone ashore with Abou. After a good breakfast at the Posada Inglaterra, I proceeded to the Franciscan convent and chapel, and from thence to the cathedral. The last is a very beautiful building, but rather too gaudy, and in not the best taste of architecture. I returned to an omelette and a segar, and water and rien de plus; strolled afterwards through the town, celebrated alike for mostachas and mantillas, for playful fans, bronze faces, and pretty feet.

At one P.M., we were on board again for Gibraltar. Towards Seville there is a fine view of mountain scenery. But the country itself is in a wretched state, the natural consequence of the numerous revolutions it has been its fate to undergo, and where each province not only declares itself independent of the government, but of one another. How all this is to end, heaven only knows.

At ten P.M., we were called from the dinner-table by hearing that a brig had been capsized. Went on deck, and found the report to be too true. We sent our boats and took off some of the crew, and after crossing Trafalgar Bay, reached Gibraltar at a quarter past ten.

Friday, Sept. 11.—I went to the library, club, and court. All things seem to work well; but I much fear that I shall have some trouble about Abou: he has been made too much of; the Moors are all on the alert respecting him. I must beware of the French, too, for I foresee they[3] will be intriguing against me. While some of our party are gone to visit the rock and the galleries, I am confined to my room on matters of business, which is not quite so pleasant a way of passing one’s time, although my window overlooks the bay of Algesiras,—a view that would form not a bad subject for a panorama.

Saturday, Sept. 12.—The Governor, Sir A. Woodford, sent Col. Fuller early to take me over the galleries, &c. Much as I had heard of them, they surpassed all my expectations. On my return, I received a visit from Sadi Abdallah, who wanted to take me to his house, and made the offer of his best services, which, I suspect, will exceed all the official ones. From him I heard that the king of Timbuctoo had gone on a pilgrimage to Mecca, taking Gibraltar in his way; so that I hope he may be returning to his capital when I am going thither. What a fortunate thing it would be if I could get the appointment of his Majesty’s hakeem (physician). Mr. Hay likewise paid me a visit: he is the British Consul at Tangier. As the subjects discussed during the interview were of an official and confidential nature, I cannot disclose them. I fear, however, that I am not to expect much assistance from him, although his offers are very kind. There is evidently something wrong on the other side of the Straits. I shall be guided rather by the intelligence and advice I receive from Benoliel,[1] whom I am to meet again to-day at the Governor’s, whose kindness and urbanity I shall never forget.

The weather is very hot, although the wind is easterly. The vessels of war sailed this morning for Cadiz. Spain is in a sad state. After dinner I went to St. Nicholas’ Cave. It was lighted up with blue lights. The band, the company, the soldiers, all added to the natural grandeur of the scene. The more I see of this place, the more I am delighted with it.

Sunday, Sept. 13.—The air much cooler. Staid at home and read the psalms and lessons. Mr. Hay called, and, after a long conference with him, I felt still disposed to adhere to my original resolution, of being[4] guided rather by Benoliel. Towards evening the wind got up, and at night increased to a gale. The dust was dreadful. A Sunday at Gibraltar is more remarkable than at any other place. Jews, Turks, Moors, Protestants, and Catholics, all keep it in their own way, and each in a different one.

Monday, Sept. 14.—The wind still very high, and the dust quite distressing. I waited on the Governor as soon as he came from the convent, and afterwards visited Benoliel. His Excellency recommended my going, and he was backed by Benoliel, but opposed by Mr. Hay.[2] Dined again at the Governor’s, where I met his chaplain, Dr. Burrows, a gentleman of great learning.

Tuesday, Sept. 15.—Started early for the market. This is a curious and interesting scene. Moors, Jews, Spaniards, and lizards in abundance are to be found there, together with a few Englishmen. I met there with a Mr. Hodgson from Virginia: he is a fine specimen, I calculate, of an United States’ diplomatist, and the most gentleman-like American I have ever seen. I have written to Mr. Hay, to request he will make arrangements for my departure; let us see what the result will be.

Wednesday, Sept. 16.—Mr. Hodgson improves much upon acquaintance. He is going to Morocco, and I shall lose a fine chance should I not be able to get off with him. Everybody says the detention is too bad, and it perfectly unhinges me. The air is much cooler, although the thermometer is still at 75°. I received a long dispatch from Mr. Hay, which ended by his stating that he would write on Friday.

Thursday, Sept. 17.—Talked over matters with Mr. Hay, which are more satisfactory than I anticipated. Visited Benoliel, who is still disposed to assist me. Heard from him, that the son of the king of Jemma was here, on his return from Mecca, and I am not without hopes of being able to go with him. Walked out to the neutral ground; looked at the stock and slaughter-houses, and did some shopping. Feasted my[5] eyes with a view of the blue Mediterranean, and the fine line of the mountains of Spain, as seen from the eastern side of the rock.

Friday, Sept. 18.—Went out to breakfast with Capt. Sheriff, and took Abou with me. The spot where he lives is very beautiful. There is a large garden, in which almost every variety of plants and fruits is to be found. He shewed me the use of Kater’s circle, and offered me his own instrument; but I fear I shall make a sorry hand at it. Visited Dr. Burrows, and accompanied him to the library: it contains a good selection of books. I ran my eyes over some travels in Africa.

Saturday, Sept. 19.—The air much cooler. Paraded the town, and passed the afternoon in the library. Begin to feel tired of the place; and as I have to remain here a fortnight longer, I know not how I shall get through it. I am at little expense, except for coach-hire; but this makes invitations rather expensive. Hagee Assalam came with a dress for Abou; but it did not please me, besides it was far too dear; I have, therefore, ordered one from Tetuan. The musquitos are a real plague.

Sunday, Sept. 20. Went to the ‘Ecclesia Nova,’ and heard, as well as I could do in a building ill-suited for hearing, an excellent sermon from Dr. Burrows.

Sunday, Sept. 27.—[The journal of the week, from the 20th to the 27th, contains only an account of dinner parties; and though Mr. D. complains of dyspeptic and dysenteric symptoms, he was sufficiently recovered to go to church on the 27th.]

Monday, Sept. 28.—Walked to Alamada; afterwards attended the opening of the session, when a true bill was found against a Mr. Shervill, for dealing feloniously in slaves.

Tuesday, Sept. 29.—In the morning the weather was beautiful, but at night it rained tremendously. Called on Benoliel, to know about the presents [it would be necessary to take with me into Africa, for the purpose of gaining the good-will of the native chiefs].

Wednesday, Sept. 30.—The rain came slick through the house, and the weather was very cold.

Thursday, Oct. 1.—Attended the whole day, during which there was a great deal of rain, at the trial of Mr. Shervill, who was sentenced to an[6] imprisonment for three years, and to hard labour. [Upon the question of the slave trade, Mr. D. says that Abou gave his opinion, but which side he took is not told.]

Monday, Oct. 5.—Ascended the rock. Went to the Signal-house, and then to O’Hara’s Tower; saw the monkies; descended the Mediterranean steps, and returned by St. Michael’s Cave.

Wednesday, Oct. 7.—Rode to Europa Point. Saw the Governor upon the subject of a letter from Morocco.

Saturday, Oct. 10.—Went with a party of thirteen to see the convent in the Cork wood, and to Castillar. The last was once a fine large and strong fortification, but is now in ruins. The scenery magnificent. As we returned by the Bocca Leonie, it made our ride about forty miles,—a pretty long excursion for a summer’s day.

Sunday, Oct. 11.—Three packets arrived from England;—as yet no letters; hoped to receive some by the Governor’s bag. Went to St. Roques’. Was disappointed.

Monday, Oct. 12.—Breakfasted at Major Rose’s, where I met Mr. Woolfe, who had arrived by the packet from England. He lectured afterwards in the Methodists’ chapel, and gave me a hit or two. As young Mr. Hay is arrived I shall go next week. Received three letters to-day. Heard a lecture at the library. The Jasseim sailed.[3]

Tuesday, Oct. 13.—Mr. Woolfe gave another lecture: it was nearly a repetition of the former one. I feel most anxious to be off.

Friday, Oct. 16.—Heard bad news, which was, however, not confirmed. [To what circumstance Mr. D. alludes, it is impossible to glean from his journal.] Saw Benoliel, who was very kind; he brought with him a lot of presents.

Monday, Oct. 19.—Attended the meeting at Dr. Burrows, and was admitted the first honorary member of the Gibraltar Society.

Wednesday, Oct. 21.—Received a dispatch from Mr. Hay, inclosing a[7] letter from the Sultan. I shall have to go to Mogadore; but I must not suffer such trifles to turn me aside from my purpose. I shall prepare to start, if possible, on Monday next. Wrote to Tetuan for Abou’s clothes. The Philosophical Meeting went off extremely well to-day, and it is arranged for me to give a lecture before the Governor and the Society on Friday next.

Saturday, Oct. 24.—Passed the morning in receiving visits of congratulation. I fear I am in for a second lecture, which, I suspect, will prove a bore.

Thursday, Oct. 29.—Gave the second lecture, and then went to St. Michael’s cave.

Friday, Oct. 30.—At length I have made up my mind to start for Tangier. Saw Benoliel, and made some purchases.

Saturday, Oct. 31.—Began arranging the means of going to Tetuan incog. with some fellow-travellers, who are to start the day after to-morrow.

Monday, Nov. 2.—Went on board with the party, but the wind blowing a gale from the East, caused the party to change their destination. I now mean to go to Tangier.

Tuesday, Nov. 3.—The first meeting of the Philosophical Society took place in the ball-room of the convent, and went off very well.

Thursday, Nov. 5.—A gale of wind, followed by rain, which comes down here with a vengeance.

Sunday, Nov. 8.—The weather still boisterous; but, as the Jasseim has arrived, I must now think of starting in good earnest.

Wednesday, Nov. 11.—Hazy and cold. Went round taking leave. Hope to be off to-morrow, and to get on shore on Friday, which is considered a lucky day amongst the Turks.

Thursday, Nov. 12.—Bought presents; packed up, and sailed at twelve in the Jasseim. Met with baffling winds, and did not get in till twelve P.M.

Friday, Nov. 13.—The weather cold. The gates shut. Went to Mr.[8] Hay’s, who was particularly kind; he has got me a beautiful Moorish horse. We paid our first visit to the Governor, which was a very satisfactory one.

Saturday, Nov. 14.—Got up early, and breakfasted with Mr. Hay. The day cold but fine. We visited the castle and outskirts of the town and prison. Saw the armour, the town fountains, and Socco.[4] After lunch we went to the Kaid, to whom we made our presents, and received in return mona—one sheep, twelve fowls, and one hundred eggs; we then visited the tombs of the Sheiks, and returned by Vally.

Sunday, Nov. 15.—We intended to start for Tetuan at six A.M.; but as usual, the first start is a jib. We got off, however, at seven. The road was very heavy over a stiff clay. The first village we reached was Marranna. It is situated upon a hill, but presented nothing to interest us, except its numerous aloes, which were in full blossom; we counted not less than sixty in a space not larger than Grosvenor-square. The soil is very rich and the cattle are splendid. We then passed on to Djedoéédi, through a most beautiful country, with every variety of hill and dale, of mountain and valley, and of wood and water. We took our meal at a well, and I contrasted the simple food of the sturdy Moors—their thin bread, dates, and water, with our own meat, eggs, and wine. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of a large castle. After resting half-an-hour, we continued our journey through a defile flanked by a wood, and having something like a road, near which was a Fantasia,[5] which our kaid wanted us to see, and to bivouack there: but this we declined to do, and pushed on to El Bab, where, after frequent examination of our persons, and a lengthened palaver, we were admitted. The whole city was gone to bed. After groping our way, we reached at length the house of one Cohen, the interpreter to the Consul, Mr. Butler, who, in a most polite manner, got up to receive us. The thermometer at midnight stood at 40°, and we felt the cold very sensibly.

Monday, Nov. 16.—We sent our letters to Mr. Solomon, and made[9] arrangements to visit the Báshá, a fine fat man, of the name of Hashásh. Our reception was most flattering. Fifty soldiers, ten under arms, together with his horses and a white mule saddled, were turned out to salute us in the court-yard. He received us in his kiosk, situated in a fine garden and enlivened by a fountain. He had a heap of clothes of various hues before him. We were presented with tea flavoured with ambergris, and other cups with verbenum in it, &c. &c. There was likewise a mountain of dates, a Popocatepetl [6] of biscuit, and an Ossa of sugared almonds. The tea was actually poisoned with the quantity of sugar. We complimented him to his heart’s content, and made our presents. He talked of his ladies “rárá,”[7] and, after going over the palace, we went away much gratified. We then paid a visit to Ersíní, the principal Moor of the place, whose house is very beautiful, and afterwards went to Mr. Levy’s, which is very comfortable, and saw the dresses and ornaments of his lady, which were truly magnificent. We then paraded the town. It is a large one, but, as usual, wretchedly dirty, and filled with dogs, &c. that act the part of scavengers. Of the bázárs, the Algerine is the most interesting, where we bought a few things, and, after dining, drank tea with Mr. Levy. The town is well situated, is surrounded with beautiful gardens, and protected by very respectable fortifications; its population is about forty thousand, of which the Jews form a fourth part.

Tuesday, Nov. 17.—We got up early, having felt very cold during the night, when the thermometer was at 40°; received our present of sheep, fowls, and eggs, which we sent to Mr. Butler, who would have us dine with him. We then visited the gardens of the Sulṭán and of the káïd, where we had a view of the country to the east; inspected the excavations and the pot-making; we afterwards forded the river. I cannot say I am fond of this fun. We then proceeded, through dreadful roads, to the Marína, the port, and returned home too late to see more of the town. After dining with Mr. Butler we took our leave, much delighted: the[10] civilities of Mr. Levy and Mr. Butler I shall never forget. My expenses at this place were, one dollar a-day for bed and board; one dollar a-day to the soldiers who escorted us about the town and country; four to the one who took us from Tangier: two for each of the mules; half-dollar a-day for the beasts required for the promenade in the town and suburbs; two to the deputy-governor; one to his favourite soldier; one to his master of the horse; half-dollar to each of the negroes, and one peseta to each of the fifty soldiers.

Wednesday, Nov. 18.—Up at four A.M. Therm. 32°. A great deal of ice. The cold of this winter is unusually severe. We did not get out of the city till six. Halted at the same well as before. The journey requires from ten to eleven hours. We got in at five P.M., when we dined with Mr. Hay, who was exceedingly kind.

Thursday, Nov. 19.—The weather a little warmer, as the thermometer has got up to 42°. This place may be called the garden of the Tomans, the Ampelusian.[8] Dined with Mr. Hay, where I met Mr. Hodgson. Although my letters have been despatched, accompanied by one to the minister at Morocco, I must say, I have little hopes of getting on.

Friday, Nov. 20.—Therm. 55°; much rain, and weather very unpleasant. Received a visit from the Táleb Hasan, who is a learned man. The letter sent to the Sulṭán was enveloped in a silk handkerchief, and put into a tin case that cost two dollars; that to the minister, with similar appendages, cost one dollar. I paid, likewise, three dollars for the translation. On the day previous there was much lightning, which continued through the night.

Saturday, Nov. 21.—The wind has veered round to the west. My fellow-travellers think of returning. Not feeling very well, I have employed the day in writing and receiving visits; afterwards I walked out to the ruins of the old bridge. Paraded the town of Tangier, which is no great things. I like Tetuan much better. I have been annoyed all the day with the noise of a wedding celebrated after the fashion of the country. Pipes of the most horrid kind, compared with which the bagpipe is music itself,[11] have an accompaniment of six drums; a calf was killed at the door of the cage where the bride is kept, like a hen in a coop. The noise of what they called singing continued through the whole night.

Sunday, Nov. 22.—Up at daybreak; the weather delightful. Went to see the party off. Every one wanting something, although the word bahkshísh[9] was not heard; after much quarrelling and grumbling they got to their boat, and we said adieu! Afterwards I went to the church, where I heard a good sermon, but found the congregation consisted of only two or three persons besides the family of the Consul-general. Saw the game of powder[10] (la’b-el-báród) played, myself on horseback and the Doctor [11] on foot. Fell in with the procession of the marriage, the wild Ríf [12] and his long gun, the bride in her cage. The dancing and howling of the party, the horses, &c. &c. presented a most amusing, though somewhat fearful sight. Amongst many slighter accidents they almost blew up my house. I gave them some tea and sugar. During the revelry I saw many very pretty girls, who were ready enough to shew their faces when the Moors were not looking; many signs, too, were made, but to me they were quite unintelligible. How these people contrive to keep up their physical strength during two days and nights of continued exertion, I cannot understand. At a little after midnight, a black slave proclaimed that the bride was a virgin, in a manner that would frighten our ladies. The announcement was received by vollies of musquetry. It is now all over, and glad I am, as I shall get a little rest.

Monday, Nov. 23.—Therm. 60°. A brig has just arrived from Alexandria with two hundred Hájís; I am going to see them pass the officer of health. Such jumping, and such putting out of tongues here and there, such beatings and misery on many a countenance, while the contents of a living charnel-house are poured out. The báshá, the sheïkh, and the beggar, are all upon an equality, and all looking equally wretched. As[12] the tide had flowed up while we were inspecting these poor wretches, we got permission to pass through the batteries, which are but poor things. They are mounted with guns of every calibre and all kinds of metal; some are, however, very beautiful. There are two fine mortars, and the beds for two others. I walked out with Mr. Hay and the captain of the port, the Doctor, the interpreter, Ibn Súr, and his highness the Sheïkh. The strong lines of contrast which the scene presented afforded us no little amusement. There have been more Hájís this year than were ever known. They are allowed to pass free through the different countries, and are permitted to carry with them an investment, up to three hundred dollars; but for any sum beyond this a tax is levied, according to the means of the party. The Jews are compelled to take off their slippers when passing a street in which there is a mosque; they must not ride an ass through this town; they are, however, the general merchants, and act as interpreters. The Muëddins [13] here are a better class of people than those who perform the same office in Egypt and Syria. The fountain is pretty, but going to decay. The castle is weak, and its whole appearance wretched. I purchased a dress, not a very handsome one, but it was cheap. I got my háik for five dollars, slippers for one and a-half dollar, and boots for two dollars. The zulham here answers to the bornus of Egypt; the jelábíyah are merely coarse sacks, with holes in them for the arms to pass through.

Tuesday, Nov. 24.—Saw the rest of the Hájís, and consulted with Mr. Levy about proceeding on my journey.

Wednesday, Nov. 25.—Therm. 62°. Took my first lesson in Arabic; afterwards walked to the ruins of the castle of the old government-house. Another wedding in the evening, but, thank Heaven! it was a little further off.

Friday, Nov. 27.—Therm. 62°. Heavy rains the whole day. The atmosphere is such as frequently precedes an earthquake.

Saturday, Nov. 28.—Weather fine and clear. Walked much about;[13] went to the Arsenal, called the ruins of old Tangier. Received two or three patients. Abú tells me, that a white Sheríf has been making inquiries about my character, religion, &c. Visited the sacred parts of the city, the tombs and the sanctuaries, near each of which is a tree of refuge.

Sunday, Nov. 29.—Went to church, and afterwards walked to the market, and then to the káïd’s. At night there was a severe storm. Therm. 66°.

Monday, Nov. 30.—Therm. 66°. Heavy rains, with thunder and lightning. I had a little dealing for a Ríf gun, but the fellow, after having sold it, would not let the Christian have it; and yet the mountaineer offers me his children as hostage, if I will advance him eight dollars to purchase a better one. I took him at his word; he is to return in five days. Some symptoms of the cholera have made their appearance; and, as the death-cry has been often heard, I am very anxious to get away. These rains are very unfortunate for me.

Tuesday, Dec. 1.—Therm. 62°. It is still wet, but very seasonable weather, for it will wash away the cholera. Not feeling quite well, I walked out towards P.M. As the question of payment is coming on again, the visit will prove very expensive; but the travelling must make up for it.

Wednesday, Dec. 2.—Therm. 58°. The Americans do not go up to Morocco. I am still waiting for an answer to my letters, but hope, nevertheless, to start on Friday, should the rain hold off.

Thursday, Dec. 3.—Start to-morrow for the Autsét.[14] I find I am getting into good training. Visited the Portuguese Consul-general. Found there a good party of Europeans, who were dancing in Africa, and playing at cards and drinking punch.

Friday, Dec. 4.—Rose early, hoping to start for the Autsét; but as the rain had continued all night, deferred my departure till to-morrow.

Saturday, Dec. 5.—Started at eight, after the usual quarrelling,[14] which almost came to blows. Mounted Mr. Hay’s fine grey Dukkálah horse. Mr. J. Hay rode on horseback with me. We were accompanied by a soldier, who would have made a fine picture. “Poco negro; cavalo blanco; abito de nada! ningun color.” Ben Káyed and Susa were on the sumpter mules. In this style we wended our way to the Fez gate. We passed various collections of huts, dignified with the title of villages, and bearing names composed of high-sounding words. We fell in with the Sheïkh of Arzilla; he was a fine-looking fellow and very civil, and asked us to a wedding at a neighbouring village, where he promised us a good deal of amusement. Declining his offers of hospitality, we proceeded on our journey through a very fine country, but much neglected, and bearing marks of misery everywhere. We passed by two large stones placed on the brow of a hill; they are said to be the bodies of a man and his wife, who were turned into stones for attempting to shorten the ceremony of marriage. When opposite to Jebel Habíb (beloved mountain), we struck off to the right to see some large ruins. The original buildings were the work of Christians, for the purpose of commanding a pass. Two villages have been formed out of the ruins. We stopped at a well for a few minutes, and, after passing through several Dawárs,[15] we halted for the night at an Arab encampment on the top of a hill, at five P.M. We had traversed a very rich country, intersected with various rivers, which we found it no pleasant thing to ford, and were hardly ever off our horses. As soon as it was known that I was a doctor, I was requested to go to an Arab tent, a quarter of a-mile off, to see a little girl. This was an event of distressing interest, as few Christians have ever been inside the tent of an Arab. There I saw the mother and grandmother of a fine little girl; she was past all human aid. To allay the severity of the convulsions, I gave some doses of calomel and James’s powders, but without the least benefit, as she died at midnight. The failure, however, did not lessen their confidence in my skill. In the morning I had a host of patients; it seemed as if the whole people were sick. A singular instance of Nyctalopia occurred in the case of a fine little boy, who could see most distinctly in the night, but was stone blind during the day. I told the[15] father to bring him to Tangier, and I would see what I could do for him. Having picketed our horses, we got up our tent, and went early to our carpet, which is the travelling bed in the East.

Sunday, Dec. 6.—We felt very cold, though the therm. was 40°. We found the hoar-frost outside the tent. After a ride of two hours over a beautifully undulating country, we arrived at Emsorah,[16] or, as the modern village is called, the Autsét, from whence we had a fine view of the lesser Atlas. At the foot of the rising ground, where we had pitched our tent, was a magnificent plain, and on the side of the hill is situated El Uted, or the peg-rock. The people here were looking very sickly. I had a patient in the Sheïkh, a great fat man, to whom I gave a large dose of wine and cayenne, to produce the effect for which the application was so general. The population amounts to only two hundred, or thereabouts; they never taste flesh, but live entirely on bread and water, vegetables, and miserable kuskusú.[17] Coming round the side of a hill, you perceive several stones forming a circle,[18] of which one, called the Peg, is much higher than the rest; there is, likewise, a second circle, but a third is never to be seen. The whole neighbourhood is full of similar circles of stones, but smaller. Many of the latter have been worked artificially. The entrance to the circle, which is fifteen feet wide, faces the west; on the north and south of the Peg are two other openings at equal distances. At about the distance of two hundred feet, there is a stone placed at an angle of 45°, intended it is said to mark the opening; it is six feet high, and by lying on the back, one can see directly through the circle. From this stone a shelving road leads to a well called ’Aïn tayyeb (good spring). But the chief tradition of the place relates to the gold-treasure said to be concealed here. The poor creatures sleep upon this stone in all weathers, and they were delighted to see the compass going round while we[16] were taking the bearings of the place, for they fancied that the gold turned as the needle did. One old woman patted me on the back, and said, “Now make us rich,—now find the gold.” It would be cruel to undeceive them. I offered money for all the iron and copper they brought me, and I told them they were welcome to all the gold and silver they could find. I purchased two coins: an old piece of the handle of a bucket was brought me, together with a nail; of course they were not worth a farthing. One account attributes the erection of the stones to Pharaoh; by others it is said that there was once a large city there, subsequently buried, and that what remains is only the top. I think it has been a large place, and I would willingly pay for exploring it. The people say, it was the city of a giant race, who were of such a size that the shin-bone of a woman formed a bridge over the stream. The elk horn in Ireland.[19] The ’Arákín on the E.S.E. are five large stones, one of which is like a coffin; but I think it is too solid to have ever answered that purpose. On the W.N.W. there are five others, each forming a sort of vestibule to the side entrances mentioned above. At the centre entrance the stones lie flat on the ground. It appears to have been a great place of resort for religious purposes, and the various circles to have been the various spots selected for the performance of religious rites. The circle is 630 feet; the Peg 16½ feet high, and 6½ in circumference; the larger entrance is 15 feet wide; at the distance of 112 feet on the E.S.E. and W.N.W. sides are two other entrances, 5 feet wide, and the semi-diameter of the circle is 74 feet. We walked through the village and made friends of the ladies, by giving them and their children each a small piece of money. In this way we expended three or four more dollars than the place possessed previously. We had the whole village following us, and were obliged to use our whips to keep off the people and dogs. Our own dinner, and the supper of the attendants, the two tents, with the soldier mentioned above and his white horse, our own horses and mules, together with the miserable population in the background, would have made an interesting group for a picture.

Monday, Dec. 7.—Therm. 50°. The rain commenced about nine last[17] night, and got through our tents at half-past eleven, which made us very miserable. Our guard was drenched to the skin. A hawk, a large toad, hundreds of spiders, and thousands of small vermin, took refuge under our tents; and under myself crept a beetle, and a toad under the head of my companion. Finding ourselves so much the worse for the rain, we determined upon returning to Tangier, and to abandon our intended visit to Arzilla, and the wedding. The road we took presented scenery more beautiful than the other. We saw the encampment of the Bedouins, who used to conduct the pilgrims to Mecca: they now go by sea to Egypt. Could I not make these people of service to me? The soldier who came from the dawárét,[20] to collect the money for the feast, has returned. We got off before light, and crossed one river, although we had some doubts of being able to get over; at the second, our horses were nearly swimming. I was much wetted, as my legs were too long. The weather, however, cleared up as we proceeded; and when we reached Tangier, at half-past three, a good dinner and a bottle of sherry, under the hospitable roof of our kind friend, brought us all round again, after an excursion of three days spent very pleasantly.

Wednesday, Dec. 9.—Therm. 54°. Day very fine. Walked with Mr. Hay by the Wád Bú Bárah, called also Jews’-river, along the ruins of the aqueduct, called El Kanṭarah, and by the bridge up to Mount Washington. The road lay through a stiff clay, containing a large quantity of iron, of an ore-like [21] incrustation. The house and garden at Mount Washington must have been at one time very beautiful; but the house is now a sad ruin, and the garden is overrun with weeds. We returned home through the worst road I ever essayed.

Thursday, Dec. 10.—A lovely day. The weather seems to have become settled again. Therm. 51°.

Friday, Dec. 11.—The air cold, but clear. Therm. 47°. The Rífman, whose gun, he said, would kill a Christian, even if he were in heaven, brought a white zulham for six dollars, and a Rífí gun for eight and a-half dollars. Walked out to the Moorish burial-ground to see the[18] women. They have a strange custom here of putting two circular pieces of red leather, dotted with black spots, upon each cheek. It produces, however, not a bad effect. The present is the period for Moorish weddings. A Moorish lady of the highest class never leaves her house for twelve months after her marriage; those of the middling not till six months; and even those of the lowest confine themselves for three months. The Jewess never leaves the sleeping-room for a week, and then only to dine with the family: she keeps the house for three months.

Saturday, Dec. 12.—Therm. 50°. The wind east, and with signs of rain. I am getting tired of stopping. On Monday, it will be four weeks since I sent my letter to the Sulṭán. I do not feel very well myself, but my patient is better. We had a Moorish concert in the evening; it was a sad noise, but very characteristic of the people. At night there was a heavy storm.

Sunday, Dec. 13.—Therm. 48°. Went to church at the consul’s. Received an answer from the Sulṭán. It was accompanied by one to El Hájj Es-sídí, the governor, who was required to send me forward on my journey with all marks of respect; to apprize the other governors and káïds that they were to receive me with all respect and hospitality; to furnish an escort of ten horsemen, under the command of a káïd, for whom he had sent money; that the escort was to be under my orders, and to take care that my wishes were complied with; that I was to take my own time, and that every thing was to be done to my satisfaction.

Monday, Dec. 14.—Therm. 50°. Heavy rains, with but little chance of clearing up.

Tuesday, Dec. 15.—Therm. 56°. Continued rain and high wind. No boat would venture out. Had a patient with bad eyes.

Wednesday, Dec. 16.—Therm. 56°. Still wet. My hand again in my pocket to pay the Sulṭán’s escort. Mr. Hay has promised me his tent, and his son and Mr. Crusentolphe accompany me to Rabáṭ. Heavy gale, and a boat from Gibraltar lost; crew saved.

Thursday, Dec. 17.—Therm. 50°. Clearing up a little. The new Sardinian[19] consul has arrived; lots of saluting; the Moors did it quite as well as the little cutter that brought his Excellency. Went out and pitched the marquee. It will do, but it is no great things. Saw the father of the porters: his sons carry burthens, his daughters men.[22] The blue-eyed one appears before the governor once an hour, or she would charge him with her destruction. I am now preparing to start in good earnest, although I do not feel very well.

Friday, Dec. 18.—Therm. 50°. The rain has passed off. A young chevalier, who came with the new Sardinian consul, is anxious to join our party. I shall endeavour to avoid this, as our tent is small, and my wish is to make as little show, and to incur as small expense as possible.

Saturday, Dec. 19.—Therm. 50°. The rain still holds off, as the wind is veering to the north. Visited the castle: the rooms are a good specimen of the Saracenic style of architecture. Rain again at one P.M. The chevalier I find to be a very intelligent person. It will be a hard matter to refuse him; besides, he might be of some service to me at his own court. But though I am much pleased with him, I have determined to say no.

Sunday, Dec. 20.—Therm. 50°. More rain has fallen during the night than we have yet had. There is little chance of getting the mules from Tetuan, and no sign of a boat from Gibraltar. Went to church; perhaps for the last time for some period.

Monday, Dec. 21.—The rain still tremendous. The weather is becoming colder. Therm. 48°. The whole appearance of the day unfavourable. Went to see some serpent-eaters and charmers. The reptiles are very fine; they neither eat [23] nor are they eaten. This was the first night of Ramadan.

Tuesday, Dec. 22.—Therm. 47°. Weather beautiful, sky clear, and air cold. Waiting in great anxiety for Cohen and the mules from Tetuan.[20] Saw a Jewish wedding. The poor bride was painted up to her eyes, which she kept closed, as she was led through the streets with torches and screams to the house of her husband.

Wednesday, Dec. 23.—Therm. 40°. The air very cold. At length I paid the káïd a visit: he was very civil. I then went to the castle, and procured three shields and two helmets, which I packed up, together with the guns.[24] Ordered the escort to be ready for starting to-morrow. Received a letter from Cohen, stating that he should leave Tetuan on this day, while we are to be off to-morrow. How provoking?

Thursday, Dec. 24.—Therm. 40°. Up at six. All ready; but no mules. I heard, however, that they would be here at ten A.M. To-morrow, then, must be the day. It will be, indeed, a good Friday.

Friday, Dec. 25.—Christmas-day. I had hoped to be at Tumbuktú by this time; and I am now only beginning my journey. Even now, the mules cannot be got ready. Nunquam meus. The weather very beautiful. Therm. 50°. Made all my arrangements. Advanced seventy dollars to the muleteers; gave Cohen twenty dollars on account. Attended the service at the English consul’s: an excellent sermon. All very agreeable; and we are to start to-morrow at nine A.M. Many of the consular corps are to accompany us.

Saturday, Dec. 26.—Up early. The morning cloudy. Therm. 50°. After much delay and wrangling, first with one káïd and then another, and declining the honours of the grand Hajj[25] As-sídí, we got fairly off, after taking leave of our most hospitable friend. I had carved my name on Mrs. Hay’s tree, and the young ladies are to plant one to-day. At ten P.M. we started. My cortège consisted of the káïd and the soldiers, together with the different European consuls and their suites; in all thirty persons. We went the same road as from El Autsét. At twelve they all left but Mr. and Miss Hay. At half-past one we halted for our baggage, and then they too left us. We reached ’Aïn Dáliyha (the well of grapes) at two P.M., where we encamped for the night: a poor[21] day’s journey of not more than ten miles. Our course was S.S.E. The road was very heavy. Our encampment appeared very picturesque, with the four tents, thirty animals, and the same number of men, Moors, Jews, and Christians. At Tagnánt my monnah came, consisting of two sheep, a large calf, eighteen fowls, three hundred eggs, two pounds of butter, four ardebs[26] of barley, and four men’s-loads of kuskasù; all of which, excepting the calf, which I ordered to be sent back, was devoured. I am happy to hear that the káïd is anxious to reach Morocco before the end of the Ramadán. When I sent back the calf, the Sheïkh came and brought with him a jug of cow’s milk, saying that he was only obeying his master’s orders, to ask if I was satisfied. The country presented the same features as we found in the journey to El Autsét. We met with ice, and crowds of men and jackals. Our position was a fine one, just above a village, containing about two hundred inhabitants. The snow was on the lesser Atlas. At one spot we saw the two seas.

Sunday, Dec. 27.—Therm. 47°. The weather rather cold. After much quarrelling with the muleteers, whom I have been obliged to threaten, we got off at half-past eight. We crossed the Maharah at half-past nine, and passing through Meshra’ el Howeïd, arrived at the site of some extensive ruins, where we discovered a perfect amphitheatre.[27] From this spot, which we reached at half-past twelve, we proceeded to our halt for the day at two P.M., at Hádd el Charbí Arbea (the western limit). Our monnah soon began to make its appearance; it consisted of two sheep, a large steer, eighteen fowls, one hundred eggs, two jars of butter, milk, barley, and straw. As this is the allowance for five persons, it will give you some idea of their appetites; for the soldiers have three monnah of kuskasú in addition. I have two men with me, who can each eat a sheep. The káïd came out to meet us. The night was very cold.

[22]Monday, Dec. 28.—Therm. 47°. Tried to get off early; but found it impossible to do so. I passed but a bad night. We started at eight A.M. Traversed a country more varied than before. Passed through several villages, to which gardens were attached; the Valley of Myrtles Fahs-arríhán, and after crossing the grinding-river, (Wád el ’Áyéshah [28]) between the two mills on its banks, we halted at one P.M. Had the luxury of a good bath, which has refreshed us more than all the sleep. I have determined to be off early to-morrow, in order to reach El ’Aráïsh (Fahs-arrihan) by mid-day, and see the town. Our monnah to-day consisted of a cow, two sheep, twelve fowls, two hundred eggs, some oranges, and flowers, barley, straw, and kuskasú. The view here is very fine. The dawár is called Ammah. The Sheïkh came down and pitched his tent. We were surrounded by a guard of Arabs, and had a party attached to us, making up six tents.

Tuesday, Dec. 29.—Therm. 47°. Heard from Cohen of a load of kuskasú, which required four men to carry it. Many of the soldiers ill, in consequence of their fasting and feasting during the Ramadán.[29] After much squabbling, we got off by seven A.M. Our road was much more varied and beautiful. We traversed the large forest of Sáhel, which took up nearly three hours. The principal trees are the cork, the locust, and oleanders. We met with many traces of the wild-boar. We found likewise the gum cistus, and the kars, a pretty blue flower. At half-past ten we came in sight of El ’Aráïsh, which, at this distance, looks very beautiful; the river Ulkos was seen winding with a majestic sweep. About mid-day we arrived at the ferry. Here we saw two of the Sulṭán’s brigs of war, and the place where the Austrians landed. After some delay we got across, and went to our wretched abode: it was quite horrible. After bathing we visited the governor, who played the great man; and, after keeping us waiting some time, requested us to return in an hour, when he should have come back from the mosque. He gave us[23] an escort of a portion of three soldiers to accompany us through the town; which is more than in ruins. Its population is not above four thousand. Most of the people have an African tinge. We visited the gardens, and the market (which is rather a good one), and inspected the fortifications, a part of which is very fine; we saw likewise the Christian burial-ground. We then returned to the governor’s; but as he felt disposed to keep us standing, we agreed to leave him without making the visit of ceremony. We then sent Cohen with a message, which brought a very submissive answer, and a hope that we could come to-morrow. Our monnah was very poor; and the káïd sent back to say that it was not half of what it ought to be. This remonstrance produced us additional sheep and fowls, and some wax candles; but we could get nothing to eat. During the evening, a poor fellow, half-Jew, half-Catholic, came to crave our protection. He and Cohen, who had taken a drop too much, had been quarrelling, and the latter had been to the governor; who, to curry favour with us, intends to punish the poor fellow. Our door was almost forced by the soldiers. We came to high words; and we have sent one of them to prison, and are determined to complain to-morrow. My mule having broken down, I was compelled to change her.

Wednesday, Dec. 29.—Therm. 50°. Up early. Paid a visit to Torredano, who had a large breakfast party. After consulting me about his wife and sister, I gave him a prescription. We then rode to the governor’s. Great coolness on both sides. I was, however, determined to enforce my right. This little fracas has done some good. As I have begun, I will go on. We passed through a very fine country. The road was good, and the land well cultivated. We encamped at half-past two, at a large dawár on the plains of Águila, through which the river Sewír flows. It is inhabited by the powerful tribe of the Oudaia, who rebelled against the Sulṭán at Fez. They are principally black. Our monnah came late, and by driblets. Six black fowls, one hundred eggs, some bread made of the bishnah, which is a small seed resembling carraway. The road hitherto was covered with large quantities of el kelakh, a plant resembling fennel, from which the gum ammoniacum is extracted. We then came[24] upon the extensive plains of Ma’mórah, which were covered with immense herds of cattle. The Arab encampments here change their roving character, and appear more like fixed habitations. After some time, we received two sheep, twelve more fowls, four mule-loads of barley, and four men’s-loads of kuskasú. The night was excessively cold.

Thursday, Dec. 31.—Therm. 38°, and has been down to freezing-point. The ground is covered with hoar frost, and some ice has been found in one of our pails. We were up at five A.M., but did not get off till seven. Our road lay along the coast, and was very dull. The sea is here kept out by sand-hills. At ten A.M. we came to four fine kubbahs, buried almost in the sand. They are called the tombs of Múléï ’Abd-es-salám. On the north side is an arm of the sea, called Zirgah: on the opposite bank are two more kubbahs. We got well across the ford; but our baggage mules falling into a quick-sand, our things were all wetted, and we were obliged to dismount the soldiers, and to send their horses to bring over the baggage. We passed a lake with a winding head: on it were innumerable water-fowls, of which we could not learn the exact name. We then pushed on, after the sun had gone down, and arrived at a large encampment of one hundred Arab tents. As our black conductor, who came from El ’Aráïsh, had not ordered our monnah, some squabbling arose as to who was the Sheïkh. That point being settled, he gave us a mat, and told us we were welcome. There then arose another question, as to whether they would give us the mat from the mosque. The place is called Reïyah; and the tribe, Aulád el Bergal, looked horrid.

Friday, Jan. 1, 1836.—Up early, and saw the sun rise; a most beautiful sight. Called for the schoolmaster, and gave him ten ounces. I had lost a day;[30] but this was beginning the year well. Received the blessings of these people, and took with us a remembrance of them in a host of vermin. Our monnah had been small; but for this a very reasonable apology was given. Therm. 50°. Off at half-past seven, and at twelve reached the river Sebú, on our way to Mehedíyah. We bought some shibbel, which we saw caught. It is a finer fish than our[25] salmon, and is sold at about 1d. per lb. We likewise saw here the bishnah seed, of which the bread of the country is made. We found it a sad job to cross the river; and a tremendous storm of rain came on, which nearly wetted us through. We were received on the opposite bank by the káïd of Mehedíyah, who took us a ride to his gardens from whence there is a beautiful view, while a room was preparing in his house to receive us. The place is a miserable one, although it presents some remains of its former grandeur: the gateway in particular is very beautiful. The káïd of the place gave us some of his soup, and a dish of mutton and limes. Our káïd had sent in the Sulṭán’s letter; but as the other refused the monnah for the soldiers and muleteers, I would not receive mine; which caused a little disagreement. I hear that six hundred horse are to accompany me from Rabát: but this I doubt. We saw a good deal of colocynth growing by the road. The káïd here is a superior man; he showed us great hospitality and no little civility; but would not yield a jot on the point of the demand made by our káïd, who had not his order with him. He exhibited the character of the Moor in perfection. No sooner had he done all this, than, in our hearing, he pronounced the Súraṭ el Nás.[31] There was a little grumbling, as both men and animals were without food. Our káïd says, he is like a man who has lost his head.

Saturday, Jan. 2.—Therm. 50°. Symptoms of rain. The káïd still civil, but very firm. He gave us an escort of fifteen foot soldiers, armed with guns. The pass through which our road lay was most beautiful. There were three fine lakes, with two palm trees. On a circular hill there was a kubbah; and on each side the sloping hills were covered with different shrubs. The whole scenery was very picturesque. On the road there was much traffic, and we again heard of the soldiers who were to accompany us. We saw the town, and the Sma’[32] (Sauma’ah) of the mosque of Hasan. At about one mile from the city, we made a halt at a grand aqueduct, to enable the baggage to come up. We passed outside the[26] walls of Sallee, a fine large place, once the terror of the Mediterranean, but now in ruins: its walls are still imposing, and the gate beautiful. We then arrived at the river which separates Salé from Rabáṭ, and crossed it, at three P.M., with much greater ease and comfort than we did the last one. Here again we had some trouble from the non-arrival of our letters. We found, however, Ben Braham, the British agent, waiting to receive us, and to conduct us to his house, where we took up our quarters.

Sunday, Jan. 3.—Therm. 50°. Morning fine. The view from our window beautiful. We went to the sók,[33] where we saw the finest piece of acting I ever witnessed. The performers were two improvisatori from Sús. Their action was so well suited to the subject, that I could understand them perfectly. Their dresses were purely the old Roman; and such ease and power I never beheld. They began by one charging the other with having tricked him in the sale of a camel; for this he would have him judged; he cursed his five senses, and appealed to Heaven; and then, by a series of expressive gestures and magnificent language, he extolled the good and cursed the bad. Being much delighted, we threw him some three or four ounces. This substantial proof of our approbation had a powerful effect in quickening his imagination; but in exciting the feelings of the one, it damped somewhat those of the other; and after the former had launched forth in praise of the Christians, the latter sung the praises of the Sulṭán and the beauty of the mosques, finishing with some verses that induced us to open our purse-strings wider. We then left them for the bázár, where we found much business going on. The streets were wider, the people better-looking and happier, than we had seen elsewhere. There were many fine mosques, and numerous kubbah. We proceeded then to the governor’s and administrador’s. The former was a great beast. We told him we would not stand, and he then got chairs for us. He was at first disposed to be sulky; but our káïd told him it would not do with me. He then stated, that we must wait till Tuesday; as he supposed I should like a little rest, and hoped I should be pleased with the city; that he would then[27] collect from four to five hundred horse, to start at any time I might appoint; but when I asked to go to Shellah, I was told there was a prohibition against it. We then went to Isma’íl Es-sumbul, who gave us a splendid luncheon and some excellent wine, accompanied by many offers of civility. We now begin to find that we are state-prisoners. There is a soldier on the landing-place, another at the door, and three billeted in the house. We are asked where we want to go, as it is necessary to obtain the governor’s permission previously. We went to the Millah,[34] to see the Jews’ quarters. There are some fine houses, and beautiful women. The soldiers would not, however, allow us to go outside the walls, although we were at the very gates. We came home, dined, read the English service, and entered upon some discussions on religious questions. Abú has been sent for by the governor, who made him a small present of tea and sugar. During the day I had several patients with maladies, some real, some imaginary. Accompanied Mr. John Hay to see a very pretty Jewess, for whom he had brought forty ducats, paid for a breach of promise of marriage. From all I hear of the man, a very fine and good girl has had a lucky escape.

Monday, Jan. 4.—Therm. 56°. Very fine. Up early, and went to Salé, to see the administrador. Few Christians now visit this place, although many have been there, whose hard fate made them its forced inhabitants. Salé is a large town, but thinly peopled. The house of the administrador is a very good one. He gave us tea, &c. I had a long consultation about seeing a child of a friend of his. From thence I went to the Millah, where I found lots of patients. The principal prescription required of me was something to cure barrenness, and to ensure a large family. Returned to Rabát, and began arrangements for prosecuting my journey. The muleteers were very sorry for their behaviour; but I have turned them off, and I shall now be better served. Troops are collecting through the fear of the Zairi, who are close to the town in great numbers. They extend to Enzileh dhé Bú Sinákah. We shall have a fine lot of troops, and I hope equal lots of fun. The monnah was sent as usual;[28] sheep, fowls, beef, eggs, bread, fruit, &c., and candles. I am, however, getting tired of this, as I find that the monnah is an inducement to spin out the time of travelling. In spite of all I can do or say, my room is filled with patients. I have taken care, however, to employ all my hands in compounding medicines. My host, Samuel Ben Dilac, is suffering from a rupture and hydrocele. Most of the people have some disorder in the eyes. I am stuffed with food; and I cannot lift up my hand without being asked the reason for doing so. Some of Abú’s countrymen came with a present of fowls, to ask his blessing. The people here cannot make us out. I rather expect a breeze to-morrow; but it will be seen that I am not to be daunted. I have ordered a saddle and bridle, and hope to be off early to-morrow.

Tuesday, Jan. 5.—Therm. 56°. Morning fine. Began the arrangements for the mules at half-past four A.M., but could not get off till nearly nine. Our cavalcade consisted of Mr. John Hay, Mr. Crusentholpe, the British agent, my discarded muleteers, the káïd and his ten soldiers, and about ten of the governor’s; one of whom galloped off to say that I had started. Many a pretty face was peeping through the narrow windows and cracked doors. We met the governor, and exchanged compliments at the end of the grand street. He preceded myself out of the city, to a place where about two hundred cavalry were drawn up, and formed a line through which we rode. The beauty of the Barb horses, and the rich Moorish dresses, presented a sight pleasing and picturesque to the eye of an European. When we had reached about the centre of the line, the leading squadron halted, and made an open space through which we rode, while about thirty, galloping up on each side, formed the wings. In this order we continued along the side of an aqueduct, till we reached the house of the Sulṭán; here the aqueduct crossed the road, but continued visible for many miles. At the distance of a two-hours’ march from the city, the governor and my friends took their leave, and I was put under the care of two káïds, one of whom was to conduct me to the governor of the district, and the other to take me to the Sulṭán’s son. I here began this portion of my journey under the most favourable[29] circumstances. The whole party halted if I stopped; and two soldiers were ordered to attend upon Abú, some of whose countrymen were amongst the troops of the escort, and came to receive his blessing. He, poor fellow, is more helpless than ever. At noon the party took up an offensive position. We closed our front, then sent out scouts, and then a signal was made on the right wing; and after much noise and confusion we captured one of the Zairi, whose rebellion had made the escort necessary. The fellow was found concealed in the bushes. No sooner was he taken, than he made a sign to the Audaya’ that he had been seized by the people of Rabáṭ, and claimed the protection of his own tribe. A signal was made, and the Audaya’ separated from the party. Others taking their place began to prepare their guns for action. I was highly delighted with the bustle of the scene, and hoped to see something of a fight; but my káïd rode into the midst of them, and, after appealing to me, and asking what account I should give to the Sulṭán, allayed the rising spirit of quarrel, to my great disappointment. We met a celebrated saint on horseback, followed by sixty people. All stopped to ask his blessing, and even I came in for the performance of a similar act. With two saints in company we picked up Hasan and some women on the road; and I was now told that the escort sent with me to-day was all a humbug. A little after one, while rounding a beautiful bay, upon one side of which we saw about two hundred cavalry drawn up,[35] we met a caravan going to Rabáṭ. The change of escort was beautiful. I rode up to the commander of the troops on the hill, who had his banner flying, and gave and received the usual compliments. He tried to humbug me by saying that he had come on purpose to add about sixty to our escort, as I was a friend of the Sulṭán’s. After giving some private directions to my káïd I took leave; but I was scarcely a mile off, when two horsemen came galloping up to ask me for a small present, just to wash the governor’s clothes.[36] I gave[30] them two dollars; but I was disgusted with the man, although he certainly drew up his troops in a ring, and made them cry out for the Sulṭán. We then crossed a small stream. The country is diversified with low and beautiful shrubs. On all the heights around troops were stationed, who constantly relieved our escort. We next arrived at a river, the Sherádi,[37] which we forded. Two blackguards, however, demanded a toll for each biped and quadruped, but me and mine. There was here a large dawár, where we changed entirely our escort, taking the troops of the Audaya’—a change much for the worse. Our road lay along the coast until we halted, at half-past five, at a large dawar, of which I could not learn the name. Our encampment formed a pretty picture. My own marquee was first pitched; on the right of it the káïd’s, on the left those of the soldiers, in front Hasan’s black tent, and in the rear the large tent of the muleteers, with the baggage and the animals, forming a circle. The camels and caravan were put in the inside of the dawar. One of the soldiers rode down a leveret, and picking it up with his gun, brought it to me alive. It was my intention to have fasted, but as this would have hurt the feelings of the donor, I had it cooked. A monnah was brought, with an apology for its being so small; the poor fellows stating that they had been driven from their homes. This was the first day in which I felt somewhat lonely.

Wednesday, Jan. 6.—Therm. 50°, with symptoms of rain. We found many traces of the wild boar. The road was covered with durú, which has replaced the kelakh, now becoming more rare. We started a wolf. We were hardly well on the road when it began to pour torrents of rain, which lasted for three hours. All our things were soaked through and through. We passed over two streams, along a large causeway, through the ruins of Mansoríyah [38] and the town of Feḍáh, where a road turns off for Morocco, and continued our route to Dár el Beïḍá (the white house), where we pitched our tents outside the town, at the recommendation of our káïd. No sooner, however, were our tents up, than I was summoned to visit the prince, who compelled us to strike the tents and to come into the town for our better protection, owing to the unsafe state of the[31] country. He pointed out a spot opposite the palace. Múléï Hámed,[39] the son of the Emperor of Morocco, is a poor puny boy. I was received with all the honours. The guard was picked and well mounted. Abú was sent for, and our monnah was extravagant: it included a camel. I felt rather the worse for the wetting.

Thursday, Jan. 6.—Therm. 45°. Late in getting off. We left this ruin of a town, and part of our monnah, which the soldiers had sold. We passed through a level and uninteresting country, till eleven A.M., when we halted for a few minutes on a most beautiful plot of ground, carpeted with wild flowers. We then entered a large forest of durú; and then halted a second time at an old well of bad water, full of small tortoises. We continued our route through the wood, but finding we could not reach our station before dark, we took up our quarters for the night amongst some Arab tents placed as a guard. As we had nothing to eat, both men and cattle were compelled to keep Ramaḍán. The whole party sulky, and out of spirits. I sent some soldiers to levy contributions on the neighbourhood. A mysterious lady was here riding an immense camel; I could not, however, get a peep at her face. At this place we saw a camel and an ox harnessed to the same plough. Finding persuasions of no avail, I tried another tack, and tied up six of the poor Arabs, to force them to tell where they kept their barley. We got a little for the horses and mules. My soldiers will not pitch their tents, having to keep guard all night. There appear some symptoms of a quarrel. Our encampment was curious, but the situation beautiful. Several Jewish families are claiming my protection, and all sleep is out of the question.

Friday, Jan. 7.—Therm. 50°. All my people grumbling, and the soldiers very ill. The rain came down in torrents, and at two A.M. found its way through the tents. My misery commenced at four. My great object was to keep myself dry, and to save my zulham and carpet. We did not get off till seven: it was too dark to proceed earlier. Passed through a wooded country similar to that of yesterday. At half-past nine a hurricane[32] came on from the sea, which nearly blew our mules over. We were obliged to get under the bushes for shelter. We were all wetted to the skin. At eleven A.M. it cleared up, when we came upon an immense extent of ruins and a burial-ground, that took us half an hour to pass through. There were the tombs of seven sheikhs, two of which were very beautiful. At half-past twelve we saw Azamór in the distance, and soon arrived at the river Omm rabí’ (the mother of herbage). The stream was running very fast, and was nearly as wide as the Thames at London. It was highly coloured with red earth, and abounds with shibbel. After some time we contrived to cross it. No sooner was I fairly landed on the opposite bank, than I was pestered to death to go up to the governor’s; but, being in a sulky humour, doggedly refused. Rode round the town, which, externally, is rather pretty, but within, the dirtiest place I have ever seen. This, I understand, arises from the immense number of cattle kept in the neighbourhood, all of which are driven into the streets of the city at night, and a perfect Augean stable they make of it. The governor was for squeezing presents out of me. I was very cool. He began by the usual compliments, and stated that he had given directions for the encampment. I told him that I expected a house. This he then offered; but I determined to encamp outside the town. The soldier who went for the baggage has called for a present. This I refused, and sent a message to the governor, to say that I have been badly received, and shall mention this to the Sulṭán. Upon hearing this, the governor sent for Cohen in a great hurry. I am determined to have my way, and if Cohen plays his cards well he may gain a bribe. He returned with an immense monnah of sheep, fowls, eggs, butter, sugar, sweetmeats, candles, &c. The surprise of these people that a Christian can do what I have done for Abú exceeds all conception.[40] The governor wishes me to remain here to-morrow; after which he is going up and will accompany me to Morocco. We are all knocked up, and I[33] must therefore consent. The tent is wet through and through, and my situation miserable in the extreme.

Saturday, Jan. 8.—Therm. 51°. Learned the difference between a wretched and comfortable night. The morning beautiful, with every sign of a fine day. Busy in drying our things. Went to see the governor in the sainted suburb, which is quite another place from the city. Here is the kubbah or záwiyah of the famed Sídi Múléï Abú Shu’eïb.[41] The governor improves upon acquaintance. Four Europeans came to pay a visit while I was there: luckily they are not Englishmen, although one is the English agent. All took off their boots and shoes, and one beast crawled on his knees to kiss the káïd’s hands. It is such humiliating conduct that lowers us in the eyes of this people. Had I seen Mr. Garcia take off his hat, I should have remonstrated with him. Cohen tells me that he did so. I would have a chair, and I moved my hat both on entering and leaving. The governor asked me to go and see his son, who was very ill, and far advanced in a dropsy. I ordered him some medicine, but it will be of little use, as I cannot stop to attend to him, and the people here are not to be trusted with two doses of any thing [for fear, it would seem, of their giving both at once]. The gardens are beautiful, and there is a good deal of manual labour expended on their cultivation. I kept myself confined to my tent for two hours, before I could get the people to send for the medicine I had prescribed for a man who was nearly dying. The governor received a visit from Mr. Garcia, Hámed and two other Nasáras, together with one Don Pedro, the principal merchant at Mazagan. Therm. in the sun stood at 70°, and at one P.M. touched upon 80°. The governor has sent to know at what time I should like to start to-morrow, and the four Europeans want me to come round by Mazagan. The history of the governor’s life is a curious one. He was originally a fisherman on the Umm rabí’, and can neither read nor write. Before the Sulṭán came to the throne he was in great distress for a small sum of money. The fisherman possessed the finest horse in the country: this[34] he sold, and carried the money to ’Abd-er-rahmán Ben Háshem, and thus relieved him from his difficulties. No sooner was he Sulṭán of Morocco than he made the fisherman governor of Azamór; and the latter has continued ever since a great favourite. He is very rich, and greatly beloved. Azamór, possessing the sacred fauxbourg with the tombs of Múléï Bú Shú’eïb, swarms with impostors in the shape of saints, fakírs, &c. I received a visit from one of these fellows, who said that he came to see his son, and brought with him a handful of bad dates; but I soon sent him off. This, however, did not prevent a swarm of them from pestering me. But I bade my soldiers tell them that I would give them nothing: they could and should work, or go to those who believed in them. The school-boys next came with their boards: to these I gave a few ounces, and begged to be left alone. Patients then, out of number, with diseases that were never heard of, next besieged my quarters; these were followed by the ladies, the hardest of all to satisfy. The rear was brought up by the minstrels, whose music was as noisy as their words were nonsensical. Tired of Azamór, I could have performed the journey to Morocco on foot in three days; but I had twenty-seven animals and thirty people to feed, and one can stop only where provisions are to be found. To these must be added the governor’s party, which, men and beasts together, exceeded two hundred head. To-morrow we enter the province of Dukkálah. Towards night-fall there was a great squabble outside the tent, and I was obliged to go to Cohen’s rescue. The káïd of Azamór wished me to take a present, consisting of fowls, sugar, and wax-candles, for my attendance on his son: this my káïd and soldiers said would be deducted from their monnah. Upon this there arose a good deal of contention. As the monnah was for myself alone, I find I have done wrong in giving them any of it, for they now claim the whole. I will be a match for them yet. There has been already a great deal of chaffing about the sale of a sheep-skin this morning, which fetched seven-pence, and the soldiers could not agree about the division of the money. Through the fear of being devoured by the dogs, that are[35] more fierce and numerous here than in any other place, I packed up again, hoping to start by day-break; and though I do not like travelling on a Sunday, any thing is better than remaining here.

Sunday, Jan. 9.—Therm. 47°. The weather cold. Tried hard to get off before the Mazazan [42] party and the governor, but failed to do so. I had got rid of the first, when a soldier of the governor came to see why we were not en route. We found him on a hill that overlooks Mazazan, with an escort of sixty horse, his camels and baggage having gone before. We rode through his gardens, the soil of which was very rich, and, after exchanging compliments, he took the lead. The road there leaves the sea, and runs E.S.E. to Morocco. It was lined with people desirous to shew respect to him; the women screaming, their scarfs and kerchiefs tied to reeds by way of banners; the school-boys, with their boards, and the saints seated along the side of the road; a man riding by the side of the governor, distributing money. We reached our place of encampment at two P.M., having been met by the Sheïkh and some of his people from the dawár, at which we are to stop. The encampment looked very beautiful. The governor’s tent, with his red and green standard, and twenty other tents; mine with four; and as fresh parties were continually arriving till it was dark, the whole number could not have been less than from two to three hundred. My own people are anxious not to continue with the governor. I had a great row with them, and threatened to send them off. They will, however, return to their senses, as they like the monnah and their ease; but to-night I have kept it all to myself, and they have become very good. Read the evening service and 10th chapter of the Acts. Received lots of patients, and a visit from two of the descendants of the famed Múléï Bú Shú’eïb.

Monday, Jan. 10.—Therm. 50°. Signs of rain. Tried hard, but failed to get off before the governor. Our caravan is now above three hundred. The road was lined the same as yesterday. The soil was one of great fertility. By a gradual ascent we entered Dukkálah, celebrated for its breed of horses. Indeed both men and cattle are finer here than in any other[36] part of the empire. At 10 A.M. we saw Jebel Khadr, rising from an almost boundless plain. At 11 we halted for a few minutes at a lovely spot, where there were palm-trees and a spring of water. We then, by a steep ascent, came upon a second plateau, from which we had a magnificent view of Mount Atlas covered with snow. We halted for the night at the mesallá of Bú’ Sanawerer, who was a great saint. The wind was so high that we were in great fear lest the tent should be carried away. The monnah was very late in coming, and I was obliged to turn story-teller to keep the people in good humour, and afterwards threatened the Sheïkh of the dawár. The weather cold.

Tuesday, Jan. 11.—Therm. 47°. At day-break I was surrounded by patients, men, women, and children; compelled to use sticks to keep them off. There was a large market in the open air. Could it be believed that my party allowed the whole caravan to move off while I was engaged with my patients. They lost their way in the immense plain, which is within a few days’ journey of Morocco. I went on to Gherando; from a village at the foot of which the governor came out to meet the káïd of Azamór. Quantities of powder wasted, and no little hallooing and screaming. We encamped outside the town; here tea was sent with three different sets of china, fire, &c. &c.; thin bread and butter; then hot victuals, and then the monnah. I was never so sick of the sight of food. Received many patients; amongst them the governor, who came early.

Wednesday, Jan. 12.—Therm. 50°. Up as soon as the moon rose, with the view of getting to Suwaïníyah this evening. Dispatched two soldiers to Morocco, to inform the Sulṭán of my arrival, and to learn where I was to lodge. From four to seven tried in vain to get off. It is plain that my káïd wants to make another day of it. To prevent this, I started, and took my baggage mules, to spite them; found I knocked myself up by walking very fast for four hours. I have, however, frightened them, and we halted at Suwaïníyah, where I looked at a fine aqueduct cut through a limestone rock, for which the poor fellows got nothing. Water beautiful, but a little warm. We reached Suwaïníyah about 5 P.M.; a large encampment was here before us, and the káïd of Azamór had still to come up. We[37] pitched our tents near the aqueduct and tank, with some tents from Fez, and at about 100 yards from the káïd of Azamór. The same immense plain as the one mentioned before was covered with agates and jaspers; there were no trees, but a great quantity of a strong shrub. I felt a presentiment that something would happen; I therefore took down my sword and looked at my pistols, and turned in early, although not sleepy.

Thursday, Jan. 13.—Therm. 50°. I was right in my conjecture. At half-past twelve, the soldier who rode the white horse, and whom I had always suspected, gave an alarm of thieves. We got up in haste, and a fellow called ’Abd el Kerím stated that he saw a man run between them. We turned in again, and at four A.M. poor Abú came to me and said that he had been robbed of his jacket, which he always put under his head for a pillow, in the pocket of which was my gold watch, which I had given him to carry for safety. The káïd, in whose tent he had been sleeping as usual, could not account for the loss, and all wanted me to start. This I refused, and stated that I should wait till daybreak. I then dispatched all but three mules, and determined to go to the káïd of Azamór; but as the people assured me they had already told him, I started, leaving behind my káïd, the soldier on the white horse, and ’Abd el Kerím. Another káïd, who had the command of five soldiers, agreed with me in my suspicions that all was not right. After an interval of two hours, up came the remainder of the party with Abú’s jacket, but no watch in it. They said they had found it near the tank, and my káïd asked, with great effrontery, if I did not mean to let the matter drop, as it was God’s will that I should lose the watch. I replied, by bidding him come immediately to the káïd of Azamór, whom we had overtaken, and told him he should answer for the loss with his head. I then passed on, the fellow crying, and we shortly arrived at a fine mountain pass, on issuing from which we had a view of Morocco. As soon as we reached the date-grove, we found the Sulṭán and his troops ready to receive us with all honours. We passed the Tensif by el Kantarah, a bridge of eighteen arches, and stopped, according to custom, to wash ourselves. I observed my káïd and ’Abd el Kerím in company with the Rifman who had the charge of the mules.[38] They passed on without saying a word, when up came a soldier with a lad, who had confessed to the robbery, and stated that he had concealed the watch under the bridge. A pardon was promised him if he would point out the spot; but when he was let go, I felt sure that he was not the culprit, and sent after him. Upon his return, I told him that he would lose his hand, and perhaps his head, and I requested the person who was sent by the Sulṭán to bid me welcome and to conduct me to his garden, to inquire of the lad where he had found the watch, and what he had done with the waistcoat. The lad replied he never saw the waistcoat. All of them, however, admitted that they had seen Abú put the watch into the pocket of the waistcoat, and both under his head, and that he had so slept during the whole journey. The boy likewise added, he had put the watch into a tree, while ’Abd el Kerím said, he found the waistcoat under the bridge. This convinced me that the lad had nothing to do with the robbery, and I bade them let the boy go, saying that he was not the thief. On this the blood of the soldier rose up, and he muttered a threat. I told him I cared nothing for his threats. They then charged him with having stolen other things, and pretended to put him under confinement. I arrived at the gardens of Múláï Músá at four P.M., after making the circuit of the city, and was ushered into the ruins of a palace. I was hardly off my mule, when the soldiers who accompanied me came first to demand a present, then the káïd, who had conducted me, and, lastly, the cleaners of the place I was to inhabit. The Sheïkh of the Jews likewise made his appearance to receive orders for what I wanted; and as I am unfortunately to live at the Sulṭan’s expense, it will cost me about four times as much as if I had to buy every thing. I continued to pay, however, till my pockets were empty. In my way to this place I had passed the village of lepers, and a sad sight it was. I then got rid of all the people, and laid down on the still wet floor of my large room, and was soon asleep, sadly disappointed with my first night at Morocco.

Friday, Jan. 14.—Here in the ruined palace of Múláï Músá, situated in a garden on the south side of the city of Morocco, but within the walls, am I a sort of state prisoner. My large audience-chamber has two hutches[39] in it, like the cabouses of a Dutch galiot; these are intended for sleeping places. I have, however, taken up my quarters in the middle of the room, from which there is a view of a large court-yard. The room has once been very splendid. It is 38 feet by 17, and 30 high. The roof and sides were highly ornamented. At the east end is the kiblah,[43] the Moorish arch, and at the west a small chamber, but without any window, occupied by Abú as a bed-room. In the centre of the court-yard, which is about twice the size of the room, is an immense vase for water. On each side of my room are large chambers, occupied by my two káïds and soldiers, and a large kitchen, &c.; and at the corners are the sleeping-places for the servants, forming a kind of fanál,[44] from which run rooms overlooking the garden, which is now overgrown with weeds. I saw there a great quantity of gold fish, a grove of orange, date, and olive trees, a small mosque, and a splendid tank well supplied with water, which, as it overflows, is carried through the garden in channels that are bounded by trellised walks covered with vines. Outside of the garden is a grand building with gates, strong enough for a fortress. Got up early. Therm. 50°; the day fine. Paid my soldiers. The poor fellow who had been charged with the theft was brought out and bastinadoed. I received a visit from a female saint, who was dressed in green, as being a relation of the Sulṭán, and of an old family; she wanted and received a trifling present. The soldiers have expressed themselves dissatisfied, although I have paid them as much as the Sulṭán does. Wrote to Mr. Hay, and received a visit from the Sheïkh of the Jews, who is to provide for me, and the expense is to be deducted from their tax, which is only 1,000 dollars a-year, paid according to the means of the people. There are here about 5,000 Jews, exclusive of the children, who are very numerous. I was visited by lots of patients; among the rest was the court eunuch, and the son of Levi Yákoút, the British agent; the former of whom was affected with a disorder in his feet, and the latter in his eyes.

Saturday, Jan. 15. Therm. 51°.—Received a message from the báshá of[40] the district, to know if I was comfortable. Amongst the visitors to-day were several saints, but they could not squeeze a drop from me. Visited the Millah or Jew’s quarter; it was filthy to a degree. Had far more patients than I could attend to. Returned home, and got rid of the vermin I had picked up by way of fees. This is a great day with the Moslems; it is the 27th of Ramadán, when free license is given to men and women. Received a present of cold food from Yákút, whose family I am attending. I had a long and interesting conversation with him. It appears that I am the only Christian in the place, with the exception of four French prisoners, who have assumed the Moorish dress. I went to a large house in the Millah, where I had a fine view of the city, with its palace, mosques, and granaries. I have been pestered by more saints, and my soldiers are quite horror-struck at the manner in which I treat these impostors. Another disturbance amongst the soldiers about the watch. Káïd ’Alí thinks I shall not be safe unless I take some precautions; I have, therefore, placed his bed across my door, which he requests may be securely fastened.

Sunday, Jan. 17.[45]—Therm. 51°. Cohen was sent for by the minister before I was up. The interview was very satisfactory, with great offers of kindness. I went again to the Millah to see my patients. The lad who was said to be implicated in the theft was brought again to be bastinadoed, but I prevented it, and threatened to go to the minister. At this the soldiers were frightened, and, after loading my pistols, I threatened to shoot any man who presumed to come into my rooms. I then read the service of the day, and, after making up my medicines, I received an order to visit the minister. As soon as it was dark a guard was sent for me; when, wrapped up in my zulham, I was led through the crowded bázár, and after turning and turning again, that I might not know the way, came to an enclosure, where several horsemen were waiting. I then went from door to door, till at last I reached one strongly nailed and barred, where my guide having knocked, a negro’s head popped out, and after hearing the words el Hájí, whispers were exchanged, and Cohen and myself were led up a dark passage. The four Moors to whom the horses belonged[41] were then let out, and the minister came into the passage and ushered me into his room. Sídí Mohammed Ben Alí is a middle-aged man, of low stature, and dirty in his dress; his room was filled with papers. After bringing in a chair for me, he seated himself in his alcove, with Cohen on his left. He then ordered tea, and began to converse with great freedom, expressed his pleasure at seeing me, assured me of the Sultán’s favour, and begged I would command his best services. He questioned me on all points of medicine and surgery, of which he knows something. He referred to several medical works, and spoke of the practice of other countries, and was much better informed than I expected. He asked me to examine his two black women; for, said he, we take as great care of our slaves as you have done of Abú. While we were with the females, the clerk of the market came in and the ladies ran away, and I was left with this porpoise for a patient; I remained about an hour, during which I had continually tea, tea, tea. I was told that the Sultán had given orders for me to see his palaces to-morrow, and that he would see me himself if business permitted, and that I was to be in readiness for the guard at seven A.M.

Monday, Jan. 18.—Therm. 46°. The weather very cold. I was up early, to be ready for the visit. It was already past nine, when the Lieut.-Governor of the Meshwá arrived, accompanied by an escort of soldiers, with the Sultán’s orders to conduct me to his palaces and gardens. The mules and horses were got ready, and off went the cavalcade—poor Cohen on his ten toes—through heaps of ruins. We passed the finest arch I have yet seen, and the horse on which my hader[46] rides is the most splendid animal I have yet met with. Arrived at the palace, I found court after court filled with soldiers. The Sultán had stationed himself at a window to see us as we passed. We dismounted at the house of the minister, of the court jester, and of the commander of the forces, and then mounted again, and proceeded by the lateral squares, which were filled in like manner with soldiers, to the saluting battery, where we saw guns of all shapes and sizes, but without carriages, whose place was supplied by pieces of wood. We then visited several kiosks, very beautifully painted,[42] and afterwards the garden of [47] : from thence to Dar el Beidá, which is rather pretty, and then to the new palace, which is the most tasteful of all. Our route lay afterwards through a series of orange and olive groves to the ruined palace of Múláï Músa with its immense tank, and we went out at the gate, from whence we had a fine view of Mount Atlas. We then proceeded along a covered walk of laris,[48] extending above half a mile, and passing a fine aqueduct, entered a second walk formed of a wood of dates, and a third of pine, which was at the back of the palace, and from thence we returned home. After this I visited my patients at the Millah, where I found a whole host of fresh ones, ready to devour me. I received also a visit from the Hakím Bashi (the chief physician), who came to examine me; but I posed the old fellow by my long names and hard words. He had brought with him a quantity of leaves of plants, of woods, &c. to ask me their names and uses. I humbugged him considerably. He has promised to bring me all their works on medicine and surgery, and, after saying a great deal about my talents, &c. he seemed to expect a present; whereupon I told him plainly that I would give him nothing. I suspect, however, that I did him an injustice, for he asserted that he came merely for information respecting one of his patients who is frightened at his own danger. The most curious part of my practice is, that I am compelled to taste my own medicines, to prove that they are not poisons. Two of the Frenchmen who were taken at Telemsán called upon me to state their case. They complained of their hardship, in being duped to change their religion. I gave each of them a dollar; but I cannot interfere in their behalf. I am to have an interview with the Sultán as soon as the fast finishes. The small-pox has broken out in the Millah, and I have been attending the sick until I am sick myself.

Tuesday, Jan. 19.—Therm. 50°. Not very well. My door is actually besieged with patients. The father-in-law and the brother-in-law of the Sultán, the Sherríf, all are ill, or fancy themselves so. The son of the physician who visited me yesterday called to-day; by all these I was[43] detained at home till 4 P.M.; I then went to the Millah. I find it is quite impossible to attend to all the patients; while I am in one house the inmates of the whole street collect at the door. The diseases that puzzle me most are disorders of the eye and sterility; and scarcely less perplexing is the complaint of the Moorish men. I must really shut up shop, or I shall be knocked up. In the evening there was a deafening roar of guns, trumpets, &c., as the moon is visible and the fast over. I suppose this will confine me at home to-morrow, although I have promised to go early to the Millah, where I have two very pretty but very troublesome patients. After to-morrow I shall see the Sultán, and this will decide my future movements.

Wednesday, Jan. 20.—Therm. 51°. The house crowded with patients. I am quite tired of my trade. The garden is swarming with soldiers, as it is the first day of the feast. After dispensing medicines all the morning, I went to the Millah, where I found lots of lady patients, whose chief complaint was the want of children. Saw some very bad cases, and returned home, where I was pestered till dark. Received presents of cold fish. Feel not very well. Had a message from the Sultán to say that I was to go to-morrow to see the city, upon one of its grand market-days.

Thursday, Jan. 21.—Therm. 50°. It has been very cold during the night. During the whole morning the house was crowded with patients. At noon, El Hájí came to take me to the Sultán’s garden in the city. Having first paid a visit to the Káïd of Azamór, where there was a large party at tea and talk, I proceeded to the garden of the Sultán, where I found the Minister, the chief Taleb, the Clerk of the market, and the tenant of the gardens, Múláï Ben Ali Ben Musúl, a great friend of the Sultán. Here I had to take tea again, and was then asked to dine. The conversation was entirely on medical subjects, and, as all said they were ill, I had to prescribe for them all. I was then taken into the garden, and asked if I could procure abortion, and how it was effected. I told them it was death by the English law to make even the attempt, at which they expressed their surprise. I was then asked, as I would not eat, to continue my walk in the gardens, where I felt certain the Sultán was [although I did not see him]. After he was gone, I was shewn the ladies[44] of all colours and ages, who were more pleased with me than I with them. I was detained there till four P.M., when I was told that the city gates were closed, as this was the day of the great feast. I then went to the Jewry to visit my patients. In the evening I received a message from the Sultán to say that all the city would be closed on Sunday, but that I had permission to go when and where I pleased, and that I should always take soldiers with me, to command respect. I have been asked to visit the governor of the Meshwá to-morrow, to see what was his complaint. Retired to rest, quite done up, and unable to write any letters.

Friday, Jan. 22.—Therm. 51°. El Hájí came to take me to Kaid Jelábí Ben Boaza, governor of the Meshwá. There was little the matter with him, except that he felt cold in some parts of his body and had bad eyes. His wife was in a very indifferent state of health. I promised to make up some medicines, and received a present of twenty fowls. Patients are increasing till I am ill myself. Went to the Millah and found more people ill, and so am I. On my return home, I was ordered to attend the minister this evening, but stated I could not do so, and went to my carpet very unwell.

Saturday, Jan. 23.—Therm. 50°. Tried hard to write a few lines, but found it impossible to do so. Passed a very bad night, and was obliged to send away all my patients. Kept my carpet till two P.M. Went to the Jewry to dine with the British agent; found all my patients worse. Had a visit from Múláï Hijází, the court jester, who is the second person in the empire; but I make no presents, and he gives no help without them. Our dinner was a curiosity. A Jew must not light a fire from Friday evening to Saturday evening; hence their whole food for the Sabbath is put upon the fire and kept there for twenty-four hours, a large quantity of fuel having been previously placed there for that purpose. The dinner is rather curious than palateable. On my return home received a message to go to Sídí Mohammed Ben Alí, where I had tea, &c., and was questioned for two hours on medical points, with the view of making a physician of him. I quite tired out the Moorish doctor, whose materia medica was a certificate,[49] that Abú, had he been[45] quick, might have copied out; but he has become slower and slower. It took the Moorish doctor half an hour to learn how to take two pills every other night. My hypochondriac patient worries me to death, and I shall make an excuse and get away, if possible, next week. I mean to go to the Kaïseríyah (bazar) to-morrow, and shall afterwards lose no time in asking permission to depart. I fear I have little chance of getting on by this route; but I will bring matters to a crisis speedily.

Sunday, Jan. 24.—Therm. 47°. It feels rather cold. Patients out of number; I was called out of bed to attend three: continued actively engaged till half-past eleven P.M., when I began to sink, and was obliged to order the door to be shut. Visited the Kaïseríyah; a very poor thing: was sadly disappointed with the city. The Sultán would hardly believe that I gave advice and medicine gratis. The people here are very insolent. Went home and read the Bible. Visited my patients in Jewry, where I found several new and bad cases. I fear I shall lose one patient to-night, as I cannot obtain permission for the gates of the Millah to be opened for me after dark. Returned home; but did not get my meal in peace. Cohen was sent for by the minister, who was surprised at my pieces of the Korán.[50] I mean to go to the Moorish part of the town no more; have a great quantity of work to do to-morrow.

Monday, Jan. 25.—Therm. 47°. Up at break of day to see my patients; kept hard at work till half-past eleven A.M. Got my breakfast, and had a visit from the minister. Went to see the Sultán’s father-in-law, and then to the Millah; was so tired, that I determined to give up all my patients. Cohen went in the evening to the minister.

Tuesday, Jan. 26.—Therm. 50°, and rising to 80° at noon. Up at day-break again. Heartily sick of medicine, and threaten to throw physic to the dogs and burn my chest. Received a message from the[46] Sultán, requesting me to go and see his friend the Báshá Ben Ibráhím; found him with at least one hundred men; then to the Sultán’s barber and bed-maker. After these, a Kaid came with twenty people. He was the first person who wanted to pay me. Afterwards I saw much of the city, the tomb of Sídí Ben ’Abbás with its green roof and sides. The rats were crossing the road continually. The bashaw had fallen from his horse three months ago, when he received some bruises, for which he had been cupped and was covered with charms; but I think my physic will do more than all. He spat upon his arm and hand before I was allowed to touch him. Upon my making some inquiries as to the state of his bowels, he was completely at loss; nor could he understand what the stomach had to do with the pulse. I explained to him that there was the same connexion between the heart and other parts of the body, as there is between the root and branches of a tree, and between the spring and the works of a watch. I am to see him every day. I have been obliged to beg to be excused from waiting on the minister, as I am quite knocked up and ill.

Wednesday, Jan. 27.—Therm. 54°. Evident symptoms of a change of weather. I got up early to visit the bashaw; while I was out of the room, he told Cohen that I should be well paid if I cured him, and expressed no little surprise when he heard I would not take any thing. Returned home, and received another message from the Sultán, to go to see the Káid of Shragna. Feel very ill. I have now two great out-door patients, and at home I found such a crowd that I could hardly get into the house. Amongst the rest were four very finely-dressed Moorish women, one of whom would conceal nothing. I fear I cannot do much for them, and but little for the Jewesses, who came in shoals. My stock of medicines is diminishing fast. Went in the evening to the minister, by whom I was complimented highly. He had seen Grenade and his son, who had come to witness the art and mystery of compounding medicines. The minister told me I was to go when and where I pleased. He requested also to know whether I preferred riding on a mule or a horse, as his master wished to make me a present. I told him that I had always found a mule the most useful in my journey. I then offered[47] to have the Physician’s Vade Mecum translated. He next asked me if I would settle at Marocco, and proposed my bringing my wife and family there; said that the Sultán would like me to remain for ten months; that I should go every where, see every thing, and that I might have two months to return to England. I replied that it was impossible for me to do so, as I was to be absent from England eighteen months, six of which had already elapsed, and the rest was to be devoted to further travelling. I then went to the Káïd of Magodor. He was pumping me; so I gave him some clear water and stopped him.[51] I find he is a bit of a diplomatist, and has been set on to worm out my design in coming here. He talked much of Mr. Willshire, so I must be on my guard.

Thursday, Jan. 28.—Therm. 54°. Up early to see my patients, all of whom are doing well. Have been obliged to order my doors to be closed. I cannot endure it any longer. I have not even time to take refreshment, and my head too is overworked. Went to see Ben Idris. There were four other persons there besides the minister; neither the conversation nor inquiries could be put with propriety on paper. My answers, however, were such as not to make them my friends. Heard again from Mr. Willshire. I have some suspicions of the Káïd of Mogador.

Friday, Jan. 29.—Therm. 57°. Up early to visit my patients. I have quite won the bashaw’s heart. I had this morning to examine all his ladies; Zara, Ayishah, Embrica, Henia, Mirima, Bettoula, Iemola, &c. &c. They were more pleased than I was. They were of all sizes, colours, and dresses. I was kept there two hours, and was nearly sick and somewhat excited. There were above two hundred of them. Went home and found there Káïd Músa; afterwards visited Káïd Abdallah, from whom I heard much of the high favour I was in with the Sultán. Went in the evening to see Káïd Jelábí, and on my return home found poor Abú very ill, with symptoms of dysentery.

[48]Saturday, Jan. 30.—Therm. 55°. Went early to Káïd Abdallah, and thence to Káïd Músa, and then to El ’Arabí, while three persons carried the medicines. Returned home, and found a message from the palace. Dressed, and after a row with my Káïd, I went to the Meshwá, and was then summoned to the palace. Passing through court after court, I came into the presence of the Sultán, who was seated in an arm-chair in the blazing sun. Approaching respectfully, I tendered him my thanks for the kindness shewn to me. After making some inquires about me, he requested me to feel his pulse; and he then ordered his people to take me round his garden, after which I was called back, and found that all his ladies were to be gratified with a sight of us. During the promenade we met some slaves carrying dishes along the shady side of the garden, that had been sent from the Sultán; another with sweetmeats; others with flowers: and at the gate there was a fine gold-coloured horse, the Sultán’s present to myself, and a mule to take me home. Congratulations came thick upon me, while my Káïd was sadly in the dumps, to be at the palace to-morrow at ten A.M. I had no sooner reached home than fresh slaves were sent with fruits, and one with a china jar of dates, and an order for all the money that I had given away to be returned to me, and that if any one took money from me, his hand should be cut off, and if any one insulted me, his teeth should be drawn; and that I was to have one or a hundred soldiers, as I liked, and might go where I pleased.

Sunday, Jan. 31.—Therm. 54°. My patient, the Káïd, getting better, I went at ten P.M. to visit the Sultán, where I had to make a dose for his taster. Remained there some time, and left my bottle and one of my best handkerchiefs. Had my dinner sent home with me from the palace. Saw the chief eunuch and Jelábí: prescribed for both. Met with some patients, who nearly drove me mad. They have a strange idea that women can keep dead children in the womb for years. Went again to Káïd Jelábí, and heard the same disgusting application. The news of the fall of Tlemsin was brought in seven days, which was considered quite wonderful. A telegraph would have done it in seven minutes. I had scarcely finished reading the service,[49] when I was driven almost mad by the music sent to do me honour, and which I was compelled to endure till past midnight. The Sheik of the Jews, and others, were however highly delighted, and the beasts will remain continuing the noise till morning. I took up a fellow who had insulted me; I believe they would have cut out his tongue had I persisted. Grovelling wretched curs, they come to kiss my knees. Oh! that I could get away. Never was I so sick of any place as this. I am literally worn out. I hear there are some letters for me, which have gone by this place. Sunday, alas! no day of rest to me, and the noise greater than on any other day.

Monday, Feb. 1.—Therm. 56°. Before I was up, Hájí Hassan, the Sultán’s tea-maker, was here from the palace with mules to take me to Ben Ibráhím, called the Sultán’s Heart. I found him on the eve of departure; prescribed some medicines; gave directions about his diet. He would make me accept a haik and a sulham, the fabric of Dukálah, of which place he is the Káid. I then went to the Káid of El ’Arabí, who was not so well. From thence to Sídí Mohammed, the Sultán’s father-in-law, who gave Cohen three dollars as a fee. I then went off to the Sultán’s, where I remained two hours to set about making some syrup of violets, which I am to finish to-morrow. I ordered a saddle and bridle, and gave Káid ’Alí half a-dollar a-day to break-in my horse, who is very unmanageable. Have been hard at work all the afternoon in preparing a plaster for the Káid of El ’Arabí’s arm and shoulder. It is a sad business. He is really very bad. But at the palace they will all have physic. Saw the chief eunuch, a very old man; had lots of fun with him. I shall have to examine the second eunuch to-morrow. I was asked to look at the gate-keeper’s foot: it was in a state of mortification. The cold in the [52] I have refused to attempt to touch, and have made many enemies by it; but I have some little character to lose. Every body here is sadly dispirited by the fall of Tlemsán.[53][50] How I contrive to stand all this work I know not. I am extremely anxious to be off again.

Tuesday, Feb. 2.—Saw to-day more of the city than ever; the gunpowder manufactory, and the leather-dressing. The powder is made in the open air. Within four large mounds of earth, all kinds of offal, the carcases of camels, dogs, &c. are left to putrify, for the purpose of yielding the nitre. Their process is a very simple one, and the powder not bad. Some of the fair sex look very comely in the street. My soldiers got a dollar a-piece for carrying the medicine. Went after Adáj to see Sádik, Abú’s namesake. Such a set of beasts I have never seen as I met at his house: he would have me take a sulham from him, which I gave to Cohen. Saw lots of the fair sex, and one poor devil of a renegade, for whom, however, I could do nothing but give him some pezetas. Went to the palace, where I found many patients. One of the Sultán’s children was sent to me with a message from its mother; but I will not prescribe without seeing her. I remained at the palace four hours, working at a syrup of violets and preparing things for the Sultán. Was asked to eat and drink, but refused every thing, except water. When I returned home three different cargoes of food were sent; but I have been worked too much to have any appetite. Thank heaven, many of the Sultán’s friends are going away. For some days past I have been compelled to neglect the poor Jews.

Wednesday, Feb. 3.—Therm. 57°. Went early to Adáj. Not so well. Pilula et haustus.[54] Returned home, and found a greater crowd than ever; mostly women. The story of the dead child was repeated by some dozen of them. A very pretty creature from Tangier was afflicted with a strange complaint. My examination of the women is a bitter pill for the Moors; the women, however, are highly delighted. I am much puzzled with the pretty Jewess and her husband; it is the seventh year of her marriage, and he can put her away if she has no child. I gave them each something to take: it satisfies them and can do no harm; and I have buoyed up the man with hopes, although, by all accounts, the fault lies with him. Too tired to write my letters, which is the more[51] provoking, as couriers are going daily: have seen above sixty patients to-day. My own health, I find, is suffering from having too much to think of; I hope, however, that I have done some good. The case, or rather the result of the diagnostic by the egg and blood is obtained by the process following:—take an egg laid on a Thursday, write upon it ü ϋ 99̂9 [Symbol]

oo 8999 ξχρσγ [55] ta a; put the egg in the moon and dew; break it in the morning: if you find blood in it, the patient will die; if no blood, he will recover; and if he does, he must write upon the ceiling a verse of the Korán, which is not to be carved previously, nor is he to use any light to write it by, &c.

Thursday, Feb. 4.—Therm. 54°. Felt rather ill, worse, indeed, than most of my patients; suffering from want of rest: am pestered with the same host of people, and puzzled with their extraordinary complaints. Went to the palace, where I was tired out with questions; returned home, too ill to sleep.

Friday, Feb. 5.—Therm. 52°. Much rain during the night. Adaj getting well: I am longing to be off. Prepared medicines for the Sultán. Am sick of the folly and ignorance of these people. Have sent to ask permission to see the Sultán to-morrow.

Saturday, Feb. 6.—Therm. 57°. Found the bashaw so much better, that I sent to Ben Alí to request an interview, in the hope of being able to get away next week; my patients, to-day, have exceeded all that I have as yet experienced. I have now made a serious complaint, and have determined to shut up shop. Went to the Millah, and saw two Jews’ weddings; at one of them the bride was not twelve years old. Received a letter from Mr. Willshire.

Sunday, Feb. 7.—Therm. 50°. Felt too ill to go to Adaj. Cohen brought good accounts. Read the prayers, and afterwards went to the palace. Saw the Bó-áb, who will die; had some differences with the Sheríf, and sent a message to the Sultán: saw Sídí Ben Alí, who promised to pay me a visit this evening, but as he did not come, I took a light dinner at 7, afterwards wrote some letters, and retired early to[52] rest. Very cold. To a message from the Sultán, requiring to know if I had every thing I wanted, I sent an answer in writing.

Monday, Feb. 8.—Therm. 54°. Went to Jelábí; saw a few patients. Felt by no means well; returned home, when I received the two decalogues [56] for the head and arm; three turns above the elbow, and seven between the elbow and wrist, thus making the ten commandments; tyed on the second finger of the left hand in hopes of getting a Saffir.[57] I feel very desirous to be off: received letters from Mr. Hay, &c., and sent an order for the medicines [58].

Tuesday, Feb. 9.—Therm. 54°. Up early, and went to see Muley ’Abḍ el Wáḥed (the servant of the Only One), the uncle to the Sultan. No contrast could be greater than that presented by the two residences. Abd el Wahed preserved, nevertheless, his commanding aspect and smiling face. He was seated in a yard, with a water-skin lying in the middle of it; his room was without even a mat. The fine old man, who was well dressed, was reclining upon the remains of a carpet, with a small green velvet cushion to lean against, the last remnant of his former greatness. He requested me to feel his pulse and order some medicine, and afterwards to visit his sister-in-law. On my consenting to do so, I was ushered into a side-room, where there was no mat or carpet, and only a small pot of charcoal, at which sate a woman who would have made a mother of Coriolanus. She was in rags; but here and there was seen a jewel to mark her former state. Covered with a few blankets, the sick woman was lying on the ground; she was very ill. I promised to pay her every attention. I then asked for some bottles for the medicines, but they had not one; I then gave them directions about taking them, when the poor suffering creature said, “If it must be, make the time of taking them the time of prayer, as we have no watch—no anything.” I promised to send them a bottle, and asked for a cup to shew the quantity in each dose. A small teacup was brought, all that remained[53] for the use of the party. This was the only house where I entered without a soldier. I did not see a child. It was the very personification of misery; I hope I may be of some service to the poor creature. I shall never forget the scene; the woman at the fire, who might have been seventy years old, had a look which cannot be forgotten; and the words “God will reward you,” were pronounced in a tone that still rings in my ears. Went in the evening to the Jew’s wedding: first to the house of the bride’s father. Here I found the poor creature seated on a raised chair, at the upper end of the long narrow room, which was filled with Jews, who were eating before her to the sound of timbrels and music, and around her the women were screaming. Her dress was beautiful and jewels fine; but her face was bedaubed with paint, and her whole person covered with a thin veil. She had been kept about an hour waiting my arrival: she was then carried out of the house, preceded by the timbrels, the Rabbis taking the lead and chaunting; all the persons, but myself and my soldiers, carried a light. In this way she was led to the Sók, where the friends of her husband claimed her, and she was carried to his house, where he had been undergoing a similar ceremony. Descending from his chair she was placed in it; the Rabbi then chaunted the service, and taking a glass of wine, he tasted it, blessed it, and gave it to the bride and bridegroom; he then put the ring into the hand of the husband, who placed it on the finger of the wife. The contract of marriage was then read, a psalm sung, and the bride was carried to the nuptial chamber, where she must remain seven complete days, nor leave home for a month; and then only to dine with her father. Slept in the Millah.

Wednesday, Feb. 10.—Therm. 56°. Visited Adáj, who is doing well; and then went to the káïd Sídí Mohamed Ben el ’Arabí Assoon or Rhabah: he is a fine old man, but was very poorly. I remained there some time; afterwards I visited Múlláï ’Abḍ el Wáḥed, who was better, but still very ill. Returned home; went afterwards to the palace, where I saw Jelábí and the old eunuch, who shewed me the bracelets of the ladies, each weighing about one pound: there were about one hundred[54] of them. A remarkably fine and young Towáshí [59] has become a patient. The court-yard of the palace presented a strange appearance to-day: there was a young lion as playful as a dog, several gazelles, and a large eagle. As the camels were loaded with muskets for Fez, I saw there were some signs of preparations for moving northwards. Felt to-day a slight touch of a coup de soleil: the sun was excessively hot. Called on Jelábí, and saw the little black.[60] Began making my preparations for departure, as I hope to be off next week.

Thursday, Feb. 11.—Therm. 58°, and rose to 102°. At eleven A.M. it stood at 97°. At three P.M. the heat rather oppressive; and yet there is a fine view from the garden of the snow-crowned Atlas. At six P.M. the Therm. was 60°: at nine P.M. it had sunk to 57°. Went early to see my patient at Abd el Wahed’s: found her better, but still very poorly. It is heart-rending to witness such a change in her fortune, yet as the poor sufferer appears to be soothed by my visits, I go there most willingly. Her blessing to-day was pronounced with a fervour I shall never forget. Saw one of the horses of the desert: these animals are used to hunt the ostrich; they can perform immense journeys; they are fed only once in three days; I had this from the mouth of the groom; its allowance is a large jar of camel’s milk every third day; its colour was iron-grey, with rather heavy legs, but a spare carcase; it was very docile. The groom was highly gratified with the notice I took of it. Returned home, and found the Káïd’s táleb[61] waiting for me. I am heartily tired of my diploma, and medicines are beginning to fail, while patients are on the increase. Abú was sent for by the chief eunuch, and has returned with a story rather too flaming about myself: but I must bear with it. Poor fellow! he is more helpless than ever. I could not have got on at all without Cohen, who is most attentive: he has received some very promising offers, if he will settle here as a doctor; and if he remains with me twelve months, I think I should be able to recommend him. I wish, however, he would take less brandy: it is true that he is never tipsy, but no man can stand what he takes for any length of time. Had a[55] striped wild boar brought, to see if I would buy it, and then a fine turkey, a rare bird in this country. Sent Cohen to the Meshwá: the heat is too great for me, under the excitement I suffer from overworking. I told him to ask permission for us to depart: I doubt it will not be granted on the first application. The second eunuch is much better. I find that medicines have a more powerful effect upon such persons than even upon women: three grains of calomel, &c. produced thirteen motions.

Friday, Feb. 12.—From the variation of temperature yesterday, I determined to watch the thermometer every hour. At five A.M. it stood at 42°; at six it rose to 47°, but at seven it fell to 44°; at eight it got up to 48°; at nine the sun reached it, when it rose to 80°; at ten it was 91°; at eleven it had sunk to 90°, but rose again at noon to 91°; at one P.M. it was 94°; at two it had reached 102°, but at three it sunk to 80; at four to 73°; and at five to 69°; giving a variation of 62°, and a mean temperature of 74°, during twelve hours; at six it was 60°. I discovered to-day that five cannot be pronounced before the Sultán: one must say four and one. His daughter had been sent for me to see: when I had called her a beautiful child, the person who brought her immediately put up his hand, and pronounced the word kamsa (five), which prevents the effects of the evil eye: for a similar purpose the Jews place a hand over the doors of their houses. Went to Adáj to take leave: I saw he had a sum of money tied up in a piece of rag, and this led me to refuse, before he offered it. He said he knew he was doing wrong; and after some time he gave it to Cohen. I was sorry he took it, and yet I wished to know what he intended to give: found, on my coming home, fifty ducats, a sum that Cohen now regrets he has taken, and means to return it this evening. Went to káïd Jelábí; dressed his hand; thence to ’Abḍ el Wáḥed’s; found the good woman much worse. Although I told them she was dying, she had been eating raw turnips: I now refused to give her any more medicine. Returned home very ill, and quite sick and tired with the place, and disgusted with the behaviour of the people. Sent Cohen to Sídí Ben Alí, to say[56] that I must go away, else my health would suffer. The worst of these people is, that if one sends them upon a business that requires only a few minutes, they take as many hours about it: besides, the system of giving presents from the Sultán downwards has a bad effect. But as the people are ordered to wait, I cannot help myself. Tired of presents: they cost too dear. Went to bed without dinner or tea.

Saturday, Feb. 13.—Therm. at each hour from 7 A.M. to P.M., both inclusive, stood as follows:—56°. 58°. 67°. 85°. 86°. 91°. 91°. 96°. 75°. 68°. 65°. Lots of work at the palace and at Jelábís. Began to prepare stocks. Saw Sídí Ben Alí, and obtained permission to make arrangements for my departure. I am happy to hear that I am to get rid of my soldiers and to take others. Cohen went back with the money to Adáj; but he compelled him to keep it. Passed some time with Ben Alí. The old boy has fallen in love with my watch. He says he will have it, if he sells himself for it: he offered two negroes. I have promised to give it him, if he will obtain for me one of the Sultánah’s dresses. He has acceded to my terms. As I shall be sure to lose my watch, I may as well get a dress [62] for it. Abu was sent for twice to-day: there are some symptoms of a wish to keep him here, of which he is sadly afraid. Prescribed for Ben Zoar (the pearl): he is a curious specimen of a nondescript animal, and more like a woman than a man.

Sunday, Feb. 14.—Therm. 67°. The variation to-day not so great. Went and took leave of Adáj: found him in a great rage; he had been beating his women. Returned home and saw a few patients. Received a visit from the minister; read prayers, and then went out on the terrace of the house, to take a view of the country. The mountain range presented a very beautiful boundary to the prospect. Dined early, that I might go to Sídí Ben Alí in the evening. Every thing is now arranged: I intend sending a part of the baggage direct to Mogador to-morrow, and to start on Wednesday. Inshá-llah.

Monday, Feb. 15.—Therm. 47°; rose to 99° at 1 P.M., then fell to 60° at 6 P.M. Had a great squabble, and almost a fight, in my room:[57] refused to see any one to-day. Began paying and arranging; found it a difficult task to get away. Was visited by a pretty Jewess, she was brought to be examined for some complaint in the back; it was evidently the consequence of a miscarriage, but the Moorish and Jewish women will have it that it arises from carrying, what they say happens frequently, a dead child in the womb. The poor Jewish patient was willing to undergo a rigid examination, but I dared not; there were many conjectures about the reason for her coming. I find that I have offended the Shereéff, and am glad of it. Wrote to Mr. Willshire, and am now only waiting for the mules, which arrived from Teródánt this day; and as soon as they have sufficiently rested I shall start: every thing goes well. A severe thunder-storm was seen in the direction of Mount Atlas, but it did not reach here.

Tuesday, Feb. 16.—Therm. 56°. Up early, and sent off the baggage; although I fear I shall not get away to-morrow: bought two mules, with saddles and bridles, for about five dollars, but without stirrups. Had Abd el Kerim brought to trial; both he and the Káïd were very much frightened. Received back my bottles and handkerchiefs from the Sultán: went to the palace. Find it does not do to have one’s servant a man of business, as Cohen is; he is too much occupied in his own affairs to attend to mine. Had a good deal of fun with Ben Ali and the ladies; making lots of friends: I am to see him again this evening. Received another present from the Sultán, and have been requested to pass the palace in my way out of Marocco. I find the money going very fast, and have been sadly disappointed with my spurs,[63] bit, and buckles. I expect a little disturbance to-morrow: turned sadler, to the great amusement of the soldiers. The ladies of the harem expressed their thanks for my amusing them with an acchordion. Ben Alí and myself have made a bet against my return. Saw old Hijází basking in the sun, had a long talk with him; he sent for me in the evening to see his wife, but I could not go. I am now to have only five soldiers, according to my own request, and shall get on much better. It is now six o’clock, and the[58] mules are not yet ready: they are now killing the fowls which I am to dine on in half an hour; but as they did not make their appearance, I was obliged to be contented with some bad bread and butter. Went to the minister again with physic, and gave him a case of Seidlitz powders. Every thing is now prepared, and I am to be at the palace to-morrow.

Wednesday, Feb. 17.—Therm. 60°. I was off to the Sultán’s, and saw him start on horseback. I was ordered to go to the Máníyah, where I had my audience of leave: this is by far the most beautiful spot here. I had a row with the Sheïkh. Sent off my last present of dates and brandy—a token of sweetness and of my parting in the garden. I found a great difficulty in getting away: at last, I left at one P.M. the gates of Marocco, with five fresh soldiers, and attended by ten others. For the first two hours the route was over a plain, in a S.E. direction, and afterwards more east. After crossing the river Tensift, the Wád Zitt, and the Wád Aghmát, we came to a douar, where we slept, having received a good monah. The situation was splendid.

Thursday, Feb. 18.—Therm. 40°. Started for the house of the Káïd Ibráhím, who came to meet us with forty horse and his standard. He received me with all the honours of a salute; during which, one man was thrown from his horse. We remained there three hours, and then commenced ascending Mount Atlas. The first place we arrived at was Trasermoot,[64] where I learned that a tax had been levied for me of 300 fowls and ten sheep. I went up to see the ruins: they occupy a circle of three miles, with walls, gates, baths, and arches: the last, however, have no key-stone. There are five walls, and the whole place exhibits signs of having been a strong position—in fact, a Gibraltar in miniature. I went in the evening to dine with the Jews—here called the sons of Yehúdi: they are a most extraordinary people. I never met with such hospitality, or such freedom of manner in any Jews. They had dancing and music, and the ladies mixed in society without the least restraint. I bought here several things. A great squabble took place, when the Sheïkh Berbo played the part of a scoundrel. These are the Jews who have each a berber-master. I have almost a mind to[59] go back to Marocco to complain: the affair will, however, be not without its use, as it will furnish a good excuse for not stopping on the road. The elevation of the place is ......... feet.[65] I have determined to make the best of my way to Mogador, after seeing Waríkah.

Friday, Feb. 19.—The therm. 47°, although the place is much nearer the snow and is at a considerable elevation. I am in great doubts about the city: it is built of unhewn stone, and the arches are very rudely formed. I could learn nothing in the way of tradition. The Jews here puzzle me sadly: they have an air of freedom and defiance. I was rather the worse for their fare last night. On my telling them the tradition I had heard respecting them, they said, “It is true, and we have it so.” They have no certain knowledge of the time when they came here, but they think that the lost brethren are to be found probably at Tafilelt; where, as at Elion, they dug twelve wells, and planted seventy-two palm-trees. The Rabbi here sung a sort of Psalm, which he had written to compliment me, and they all joined in the last sentence—“Blessed is he that cometh in the name of the Lord.” I went to the synagogue, and returned to my tent to prepare for starting. What a changeable being is man! I got up, and went to the Sheïkh of the Berbers to make a complaint, and I have now to write to Abd-Salám to say that I am perfectly satisfied. I wish I could always get the pure pronunciation and etymology of the names of towns and other places. Thus, for example, the Misfywah, as it is called in the maps, is Oom Sievra (mother of Sievra),[66] the name of the first tribe who settled here. Again, Trasermoot is in reality tras (head), and ermoot (valley). At noon we started, accompanied by the whole population. We passed through a beautiful olive-grove. In descending a steep dip, I observed some people, and a pile of something, which turned out to be my dinner. It had been cooked on the spot: no four persons could have carried it:[60] I could not eat a mouthful; but the soldiers played their parts in high style, and to their heart’s content. Our road then became most beautiful, and after crossing a river made a tremendous ascent. We were now joined by another party. I had chosen this road, rather than return to Káïd Abd-Salám, who had sent to say he would give me an escort of sixty horse: but I fell from the frying-pan into the fire. We arrived at a large millah, where persons came out with wine and milk. I had to touch each, and put a drop on my horse’s mane: I was too ill to drink any myself, while the women saluted me with a terrible screaming. We then proceeded to a second river, where we were met by a Sheïkh, with two Shilḥahs [67] on foot, who disappeared in the twinkling of an eye in a ravine; and on descending, I found forty of them with their guns all levelled at, and waiting for, me; while some twenty more were on the large stones on the sides of the ravine, together with ten on horseback, headed by the Sheïkh, who was beautifully mounted. As soon as I came on the level he went forward some little distance; then wheeling suddenly his horse, he came at the top of its speed towards me. Knowing it would be best to keep myself as I was, moving on, he placed his gun on my hat, stopping his horse at the same moment. Such a halt I had never seen: this made my own horse nearly mad. The whole then commenced firing, and so close to me, that I got the powder in my face, and the report almost cracked my ears. We then turned from the road to see a fine cave, which was said to pass through the mountain called Gulgál. At this point we had a view of Marocco. Skirting the mountain, which overlooked a river, and a country with enclosures like an English farm, we got into the district of Waríkah, where we had more firing. Arriving at the house of the Káïd, I tried to walk, but found myself too much exhausted. I received a visit from some Jews, who stated that they have here the tombs of two rabbis who escaped from the second destruction of Jerusalem; that their nation has resided here ever since that event. We had some talk about some books connected with this tradition, but they will not shew them, nor can they go with[61] me to-morrow, as it is their Sabbath, to the burial-ground. They are generally very ignorant, although they can manufacture, in a rude way, silver rings and bracelets.[68] Over the mountain opposite there is a valley equal to the plain of Marocco, where dwell, say the Jews here, those who escaped from Nebuchadnezzar, from whose time they have preserved their national records. There is, however, too much snow at present to enable us to reach the place whose name is Kibla. In Waríkah there are sixty heads of families, and some of the douars[69] are more numerous. At Trasermoot every Jew has his master; but here they have only one. On the mountain there are two; in other places there are three; and so on. The annual tax is a ducat for the head of each family; but they have to entertain and provide for all who come in the Sultán’s name: they are the most intelligent I have met with.

Saturday, Feb. 20.—Therm. 50°. Our road is more beautiful as we proceed. We passed more than twelve millahs, at which we had milk, &c. We halted half an hour at a fine stream, where I got some specimens,[70] and then came to Gurgal, a fine-looking place, where there are many gardens, plenty of water, and a curious tower. We arrived here at two P.M. The Káïd came out to meet us with twenty horse: we had to remain here, although distant only twelve miles from Waríkah. Our course had been S.W. and S.S.W.,[71] and Marocco now bears N.W.[72] We saw many traces of the wild boar. The Shulúh came out with their dogs, and started some hares and flushed some partridges, but caught nothing. We walked down to the river, which runs at the foot of the hill on which this place stands: I collected a few specimens, and found many boulders of granite, generally a speckled stone: the water was slightly ferrugineous. The Jews here can give no information: they have not resided here more than eleven years. We are to go to-morrow to Almishmish.

Sunday, Feb. 21.—Therm. 47°. The Sheïkh’s brother was brought to[62] me: he had been shot by somebody while he was in the mosque: the ball had entered the left breast, passed through the ribs, and came out at the shoulder: it was a bad case. We could not get off till half-past nine A.M. We crossed the river, and after losing our way, and passing more than thirty villages, the people wanted to stop, but I insisted on proceeding. Our road was very beautiful, but trying, as we continued to ascend. Some of the ravines surpass any thing I have ever seen. We passed several tanks, built along the route, for the convenience of travellers: the water was fine: I picked up many curious specimens. At three P.M. we crossed the river Nefísah, a noble stream; above which stands the town of El-Arján, where we saw the women’s heads dressed fantastically with flowers, and some fakirs adorned with curious ornaments. We did not reach Almishmish [73] till just before dark. The Sheïkh Sídí Mohamed Ben Aḥmed is a great Káïd, who sent us lots of presents. This, which I hoped would be an easy day, turned out the hardest of any we had travelled. My horse is so knocked up, that I find we must remain here the whole of to-morrow.

Monday, Feb. 22.—Therm. 50°. There was a little rain during the night. I have been so bitten by fleas, that I look like a person with the small-pox. Our journey yesterday was twenty miles, W. by S. and W.S.W.; we went a part of the way up the dry bed of a river. I found here some varieties of mixed stones, and a spring nearly equal to that at Vaucluse: there were numerous mills scattered through the country, which was very beautiful. We went to breakfast with the Káïd in his garden; it was done in great style. Received lots of presents, and had many patients, especially some old women; amongst the rest, there was brought to me a man who had been attacked when employed in the fields, and had both of his arms broken and half of his nose cut off: I replaced the piece of the latter and set the arms, for which I had to manufacture splints. These are a strange people; when I had finished, the fellow did not even say ‘thank you.’ Many of the ladies here are ill, but I have no remedy for them. The chief of the Jews sent for me, to shew his hospitality; but I have no appetite, and they are miserable[63] unless one eats and drinks to repletion. I must, however, pay him and his household a visit, although their filth is dreadful; and I am covered with vermin that have emigrated from my patients. Long—very long, will it be before I forget this visit. The Káïd’s brother, and one Hají Hámed,[74] are great drunkards; the man’s wife is half naked, but loaded with ornaments. I was struck equally with the profusion of the viands devoured and the quantity of brandy gulped down: the room was covered with filth and kelp, in which there is a great trade carried on here. It was impossible, however, not to be pleased with their hospitality and good-humour, despite the lice, which was an honour I could well dispense with. Returned home about eleven, P.M.; it was very cold.

Tuesday, Feb. 23.—Therm. 50°. It turned very cold. I remarked on the road the strange manner of keeping their corn in large baskets, plastered over, and set on the roofs of the house, where they present a very odd appearance. Received presents again before starting, which did not take place till nine, A.M. We met with three old women, who could have played the witches in Macbeth admirably: our road was beautiful, but my horse very unmanageable. Our course was W. by S. for two hours, and then W.N.W. After skirting the mountain, we halted at one, P.M., in a fine brush-wood, where there was a fine cover for a quantity of game; we then started again, our course being W. by S., and made about twenty-six miles, and rested for the night at Káïd Sídí Ben Mohammed’s Mikád; the place is called Seifel Mál, on which he has laid out much money. No sooner were we in the house than I had a host of patients. The Káïd himself, a man of seventy years old, wants to take some medicines, for the purpose of knowing what kind of stuff it is, and how he shall feel after it, having heard all the people talk of my physic: he shewed me his harem, consisting of ten or twelve ladies. Our room, which is very ruinous, is fifty feet long, and only six wide. I confess I was pleased with the candour of mine host, who said, when[64] taking away his carpet, that it was full of fleas, and he supposed I should prefer my own fleas to his. I wish, with all my heart, he had taken his mats also; we never had so bad a night—almost devoured by vermin. We are now promised to be at Mogador to-morrow evening.

Wednesday, Feb. 24.—Therm. 56°. Much rain during the night, but we have fortunately had fine weather during the day. In our ride yesterday we passed many excavations in the side of the ravine which forms the bed of the river; in these the shepherds and their cattle herd together. The people here are said to be very Háramís.[75] Our course was W.N.W. for two hours; then W. by S. for two; then W.N.W. to N.W.: we passed several douars. The people here have evidently never seen a Christian. The Káïd, his wife, and whole family, came to see me last night; and this morning she has sent to ask me to mount my horse before her: a pretty woman, too, has brought me a dagger.[76] The country is flat, but little cultivated: we here met with the Klágh again. At one, P.M., we came to a large and fine head of water, called Ras el ’Ain, where we halted to take some refreshment; we then passed three large douars. At Auled es Sibá my horse threw me; he was quite done up, and I had to walk for more than two hours: at last, after a day of thirteen hours, we came to some habitations, and put up at the house of Hájí Abú. During the day we passed through a district with a river called Kihira; there were large herds of cattle, particularly camels, which are kept here for breeding: the ground was covered with flowering-shrubs, amongst which I discovered a great quantity of old man, thyme, wild mint, the marygold, &c. I cannot say I much liked the looks of my host, nor, indeed, of the place, into which the soldiers were not permitted to enter. Allah hátebek, habábek, was pronounced very frequently, as there was nothing to eat; a sheep was killed for the soldiers, but before it was ready we had all fallen asleep. In the morning I had to[65] doctor all the women; they had never seen a Christian, but, by some means, the chieftain’s lady had procured the button belonging to a naval uniform, which she considered her principal ornament.

Thursday, Feb. 25.—Therm. 57°. Off at seven, P.M.; much rain had fallen during the night: we were compelled by the country hills to vary the direction of our course to W. by N.; we passed by many villages, and many ruins. At noon we entered a large wood of the argan,[77] from which an oil is extracted; it is a low and bushy, but fine tree; there was also a good deal of carraway, &c. Through a country not so well cultivated, we entered Háhá, through which we continued our journey till four P.M., when we fell in with the great road leading from Marocco. We then entered an immense wood, which took us two hours to traverse, and came out upon the most extraordinary sand-hills I ever saw; from their tops Mogadór was visible, but as night was coming on we dispatched a soldier at eight P.M. When we arrived at the city, we found that Mr. Willshire was with the governor. The former took me to his house, where I made myself comfortable with a glass of porter: I remained there till midnight, and then threw myself on his bed.

Friday, Feb. 26.—Therm. 58°. Heavy rains. Had not much sleep: the porter too strong for me. Occupied the whole day in unpacking and removing to my own house: found some difficulty with the soldiers. Saw the agent of the Sheïkh of Wád Nún, and in the afternoon the brother of the Sheïkh; they fear the Sultán will stop me, and that I shall have to go back; but I shall make the acquaintance of the Sheïkh, and though I am prepared to go back, if necessary, still, I shall endeavour to get away, and go down to Wád Nún, and take my chance. Rained the whole day: returned home, and went early to rest.

Saturday, Feb. 27.—Therm. 56°. Heavy rain, with a high sea, and much swell. As this is an idle day, I went to look at the horse, and in the afternoon walked round and outside the town, accompanied by Mr. Willshire; it is a finer one than any I have yet seen in Marocco: there[66] is an air of comfort and business about it quite uncommon; it has a good market. Met the people coming in from hunting the live Dil.

Sunday, Feb. 28.—Therm. 50°. Feels cold; wind from the N. Read prayers, and then paid a visit to the governor, who was very civil: I fear, however, that matters do not go on quite so smooth as I could wish. Prepared medicines for the people on the road. Retired to rest early, not very well.

Monday, Feb. 29.—Therm. 60°. at eight; 80°. at nine; 102°. at ten; 100°. at eleven; 106°. at twelve; and at one rose to 116°., the hottest weather I have felt as yet in Barbary. Saw Ombark [78] of Nún, the brother of Sheïkh Beïrúk: matters are going on well. I had a look at the Kobbah of Sídí Mogodúl, which the Christians have converted into Mogadór: the Moors call it Suweïrah (picture); it is, certainly, the handsomest city in the empire. Went to the auction-mart: the night cold.

Tuesday, March 1.—Therm. 60°., but rose to 116°. at one P.M.; the weather beautiful. Walked over the town; saw several patients, but not being very well, retired early to rest.

Wednesday, Mar. 2.—Therm. 62°. Weather heavy, with damp-heat. Visited the káïd of Shavviyah, his brother, and father; the first was afflicted with a kind of scabies, the second with the a cold and the third with old age, but with an extraordinary conformation, which made him look like an hermaphrodite. Walked round the fortifications, which are good, and have several batteries mounted: it is not only the strongest, but the best kept town in the empire.

Thursday, Mar. 3.—Therm. 60°. Up early, and went on board the Mauritania: got nearly swamped through the breakers, and a considerable swell from the Atlantic. The boats of the ships were all in readiness, expecting every moment that we should require their assistance. There is a small island, on which is the state-prison, together with a small mosque, and a few houses: from this place the town presents a fine view. To-day is a great feast with the Jews, and is the first on[67] which they make their passover cakes: called at many of their houses. The Jewish population here, Mr. Willshire thinks, is nearly equal to that of Marocco; they are certainly better housed, and in better circumstances. Saw some beautiful women: many of the men are dressed in European cloths, and even speak English. As I got wet through in coming here, and was suffering from sea-sickness, I did not leave home the whole evening. Massers, whose name has been converted into Moses, though his people call him Oman, brought me the prices of all the things in the market; every article is now scarce and dear, owing to the proximity of the army to the city. Meat, whether beef or mutton, is two-pence per pound; bread, twenty loaves for a peseta, the usual number is thirty; Eggs, three dozen for a peseta, at other times there are eight dozen for the same sum; wheat and barley, four pesetas per cwt., which is just double the usual price. The people have been crying out for rain, and they have now got it with a vengeance. I expect my courier will reach Wád Nún to-day, and to have an answer by to-morrow week.

Friday, Mar. 4.—Therm. 65°. Fine. Had many visits, and lots of patients. Felt rather poorly.

Saturday, Mar. 5.—Therm. 60°. Got up late: went to the Jews’ town, and saw my patients. Rode out with Mr. Willshire; hurt myself, and had to lie by.

Sunday, Mar. 6.—Therm. 57°. Weather very boisterous. Abou ill; the cold and wet disagree with him. Read prayers: Saturday is kept here as the Sabbath, hence our Sunday is their busiest day.

Monday, Mar. 7.—Therm. 60°. Still cold, and very wet: heavy sea, and no boats able to come ashore. Kept the house the greater part of the day.

Tuesday, Mar. 8.—Therm. 57°. Very wet, the rain comes down in torrents. Received letters from Tangier: visited my patients; wrote to England. I am told that I may expect an answer from Wád Nún at the end of the week.

Wednesday, Mar. 9.—Therm, 60°. The weather brightening up: the people all busy. Ransacked shops, but found very little. Feel not very well: began with my vocabulary.

[68]Thursday, Mar. 10.—Therm. 65°. Very fine. Paid a visit to Sídí Ben Idris. I learnt from him some particulars respecting the Khunthas. He tells me it is Herami for their native doctors to examine these people; that when this is necessary, as in the case of (an expected) death, it must be done by means of a glass, that they who have the parts of the male prominent, are set down as men who are destined to have a double portion of prosperity; while those in which the female organ is more developed, are, like the other sex, less fortunate. They are called Khunthá and Khanáth; the most perfect are found at Fez. Received my answer from the Sheïkh of Wád Nún; it is perfectly satisfactory, he will protect me beyond Tumbuktú, if necessary; it only remains for me to know the terms. Made my round of patients.

Friday, Mar. 11.—Therm. 65°. Weather beautiful. Went to the káïd of Shedmah, whom I found better: have had many applications. Mr. Willshire went to Ben Idris, who will offer no opposition; all therefore goes on well. Got out the tent preparatory to departure. The brother of the Sheïkh of Wád Nún is to accompany me as far as that place. I find some difficulty about money matters, and must therefore send to London. Cohen is not doing so well; he finds I can dispense with his services, and I shall be glad to get rid of him entirely.

Saturday, March 12.—Therm. 66°. Walked with Mr. Willshire to see Reis Múden’s wife, and other patients. The ladies opposite are very merry: made arrangements for the letter to the Sultán.

Sunday, March 13.—Therm. 60°. Weather very boisterous. Read the prayers; my patients are improving: had a visit from Hájí Omar, who lately had some hot pepper rubbed in his mouth for telling a lie: the punishment ought to be repeated, as he has made up a fine story about me. I begin to feel an anxiety to get off: but any hurry on my part would mar all my prospects. Took the tent to pieces, and have several Jews at work; for as the holidays of these people and the Moors are at hand, I must get every thing done before their commencement.

Monday, March 14.—Therm. 66°. Weather hot and muggy. Went to dine in the Jews’ town: such a dinner! I heard a long account of the[69] cabbalists, the talkers with God, and the angels. Returned home, and arranged to start this day week for Teródánt, to quiet the talk about us. I do not feel quite contented with Cohen: his son has the bocca larga. During the afternoon we were visited by the hot wind: it was very oppressive: began my letter-writing, and hope soon to get off.

Tuesday, March 15.—Therm. 66°. Some rain fell during the night. Received the names of Hámed Libbú, king of Tumbuktú; Fehedier, king of Hausah; Woled Mansa Ensilú, king of Bambarrah; all of them are well known to Abú. Preparing to start.

Wednesday, March 16.—Therm. 70°. Fine, but with signs of rain in the distance. Went to the governor to say that I intended leaving next week: sent off letters to the Sultán. Was hard at work with my patients, all of whom are doing well.

Thursday, March 17.—Therm. 66°. The weather is brightening up; busy in preparing; wrote letters to send by the Milford; heard the history of the man who found the camels in the sand, and made his fortune by it. This happened at two days’ journey from Wád Nún: employed in preparations for starting.

Friday, March 18.—Therm. 66. Wind S.; got very warm towards mid-day; had my marquee altered to a tent, at an expense of ten dollars; determined to leave my horse, and made preparations for mule-travelling. The most extraordinary reports are in circulation about me; first, that I am going all over the country to see where it can be best attacked, and conquered; next, that I have turned merchant, and am going to Súdán to buy up the gold; and queries are asked as to the quantity of salt I shall have to carry for that purpose. Of this last article, the price is extravagantly high. A human being is given for as much as two feet can cover, and the whole of a woman’s jewels have been asked for as much as she could cover with her body. Had three of the famed serpent-stones brought me to purchase: they fetch very high prices, as they are a remedy for the bite of the reptile, and are used as a most costly medicine. I made several offers; the men had refused twenty-two ducats for the three; a large sum for a Moor to give, and an Arab[70] to refuse. They are generally brought from Sùdàn: these, however, were taken from the M’hor, which is a kind of antelope, and are called selsí in the Mandingo language: they are used as an antidote in cases of poison, and are applied also to pains and bruises: I bought the three for eight dollars. The moon was visible and clear; a sign of fine weather. This evening the Sultan is to receive my application: it is therefore a moment of great anxiety.

Saturday, March 19.—Therm. 67. Weather beautiful: the Milford about to sail. At half-past one the Therm. in the sun was 114°. Did not rise at all to-day: rather the worse for the copper [79] of yesterday.

Sunday, March 20.—Therm. 65°. Read the prayers. This is the great day of business here; there are symptoms of rebellion in the north; the Sultan is to move to-day; a large arrival from Wád Nún. I hope to buy some pieces of gold to-morrow: several were brought to-day, but none were very good. The mithkal or mazar is equal in value to two dollars and a-half; a dollar, by weight, contains six mithkals, one sora of gold. The ordinary lot in which it is sold is equal to fifteen dollars and a quarter in weight, and in value 225 dollars. The rate of purchase is at thirty-five to forty ounces the ducat. It is brought mostly in the shape of ornaments.

Monday, March 21.—Therm. 66°. I took the best observations I could without a barometer, which is not to be found here; and considering too that the day was very unfavourable. Arranged for my mules: got every thing ready: am very anxious to hear from Marocco. A vessel has arrived from Gibraltar.

Tuesday, March 22.—Therm. 66°. Went to the governor, and took leave; saw four men, who lived only six days’ journey from Tumbuktú. The tent is but barely dry. I had no time to write to the Astronomical Society; I kept the paper; took leave of my patients; glad to get off.

Wednesday, March 23.—Therm. 66°. Up early; commenced arrangements for loading the mules; did not get off, however, till ten P.M., and[71] was then detained a half hour at the gate. Mr. Willshire and other friends accompanied me for the first two hours and half. The road was over sand-hills, covered with a sort of vegetation. We halted at one P.M., took a lunch, and then my friends left me. The country now became more beautiful, and we entered a fine forest of argan: the day was beautiful; the wind behind us; the people all gay; my mule wanting no goad. As I am rather superstitious, I took the following event for a good omen. At a turn in the wood three boys came up to bid me Muhabbah-bik, and brought upon their slate

nasr mini-llahi wa fat-hu karibu wa basre-l múminína—“Help from God, and victory is near at hand, and good tidings for the faithful in God.” We continued our route, meeting a great number of people; the ground was carpeted with flowers. Arrived at the foot of a mountain, and crossing a stream, we came to our halt at half-past six, at Edvvisán or Smemo,[80] where we were well received, and liked the people. I was very tired, and having no appetite, took a draught of sour milk, and laying myself down, was soon fast asleep.

Thursday, March 24.—Therm. 62°. Up early, but did not start till eight A.M. The country here is well cultivated, and the barley has already attained its full height: the land is fertile. At an hour’s distance from this place there are two large salt-mines: we visited one of them: the salt floats upon the surface of a brine lake, highly impregnated. The trees here begin to be finer. There is a hill of sand in the neighbourhood, where it is said that the Christians used to bring their horses to roll themselves. The water is fine, and tanks have been built along the whole road from Mogadór, distant from each other about a two hours’ journey. We halted at noon; the ground was covered with wild mignionette; the cuckoo was heard the whole day, and a shepherd, with a shrill pipe, accompanied each flock: the scenery to-day charming. We did not reach our intended halt; for the heat was tremendous; and yet, strange to say, I was the only person who did not suffer by it. The[72] thermometer on my saddle stood at 114° for some hours together: in the shade even it was 90°. The place called Edujwilil is a miserable one. We are to have a longer day to-morrow, as I wish to arrive before the feast: dined on leben, (sour milk), and after taking tea went to bed.

Friday, March 25.—Therm. 66°. The noise I made last night has done some good. We had yesterday a fine view of the snowy peaks of Atlas. I never had such a night as at this place. Edujwilil outdoes in vermin Safilmel: I could not bear to be in the room, and sat outside of the house all the night; I will have my own way this evening. The whole road was rendered very beautiful by large plantations of the almond-tree. Some of the fruit was nearly ripe; the corn was high, and the soil richer. We came again upon the Atlas range; where it reaches to the sea; it has fine sloping hills, and round-capped chalk mountains. We entered a magnificent pass, that took us an hour to get through it: the scenery here was very striking. A great deal of our route lay through the road cut by Muley Suleiman. My soldier rode his white horse, which he made to kneel down at the tombs. Arrived at Hájí Mohamed’s at Beni Tamer: this village is called Ait Isak, where we received presents, Mr. Willshire having told him to take care of us. We put up in a shed, where we had a fine view of the sea.

Saturday, March 26.—Therm. 70°. I am so much burnt by yesterday’s sun, that I can scarcely move my hands. We came to Fernit, where the road turns off to Agadir: we, however, kept down towards the sea, following a track: we had lots of lāb el barod.[81] At ten A.M. we rounded the end of a chain, which slopes down to the sea. The strata here, as in yesterday’s route, were of lime-stone and sand-stone of every shade, and assumed a variety of forms. There were numerous caverns, and large masses of pudding-stone. We passed a fishing station, where we found many boats, and the poles for drying the fish were placed horizontally from tree to tree. The ground was covered with the euphorbium,[73] wild lavender and stocks; and we saw a great quantity of partridges, pigeons, and birds of prey. We met likewise with an aqueduct to supply the tanks with water, that occur at about two leagues apart: they are generally from twelve to fourteen feet deep, and about half filled with water. We halted at mid-day in a large grove of rhododendrons in full blossom: the water was bad. In the strata here are quantities of fossil remains. From the shelving coast we ascended a very steep mountain, and continued rising to about one thousand feet. Here we found immense rocks of shells, some of the masses would have weighed tons. While I was collecting a few specimens, Abú remarked that the same kind of shells are to be met with at Súdán. Continuing our route, we descended again towards the sea, and went along the sands till dark, and then climbing a kind of Gibraltar rock, reached our resting place, Tamaraet; where, however, we could get nothing, nor find even a place for pitching the tent: and as we were not permitted to enter a house, we were compelled to sleep in the open air, while a heavy dew was falling.

Sunday, Mar. 27.—Therm. 65°. Up early; walked out and enjoyed the view, from a considerable elevation. Read a part of the morning service. Did not get off till eight, P.M.: had a most splendid ride of two hours to Agadír, which exhibits the remains of great strength, and of some splendour. We had the upper part of the fortress allotted to us, from which the view was magnificent, but the heat excessive: we are to remain here to-day and to-morrow. Read the prayers, and washed some clothes. Walked through the ruins; there was scarcely a house; some five or six buildings, resembling shops, supplied the wants of a population not exceeding one hundred souls including Jews and children; I have since heard that there are but thirty. The walls are very good, and the Káïd has been building a new fort. Below it, and about half a mile off is Fontí,[82] where there is a very fine spring, which supplies this place with water. The governor was particularly civil, in fact he over-did the thing, for every two hours he brought us food. The moon rose beautifully; the night was fine, but cold: I walked on the battery till nine P.M.

[74]Monday, Mar. 28.—Therm. 60°. Air cold, weather hazy. This is the grand feast of the Mussulmans; the last day of Dhí-l Hajjah, and the end of the year. All my people are so changed by washing themselves, that I hardly know them again. We went through the ceremony of kissing each other, and giving blessings; I had my blessing sent me as soon as day broke. On this day the gates of the Ka’abah are opened; nor do the Mussulmans go to the mosque, but say their prayers outside of the town. When these are finished, either at the Masallá [83] or in the circle, a sheep is slaughtered and placed immediately before a man upon a fleet horse; if it reaches the town alive, the year will be an abundant one, and vice versa. Walked out to Fontí, when I was overtaken by a courier from Mogadór, who brought letters to the Káïd here, and the Káïd of my own soldiers, and one from Mr. Willshire to myself; by which I find I am now to go to Teródánt. A cry of danger has been set up, and hints given me to leave the country. The governor of Mogadór is to give me three bullocks, and I am to be allowed to ship haikes and leopard skins, which is considered a great privilege, but I have refused; and have sent again to his highness, to ask definitively whether I am to go or not to Súdán. The fear is that something may happen to me, for which he will get the blame, as that is the province which barely acknowledges his power. For my own part, I am better pleased with the people here than any I have seen in his dominions. The cousin of Sídí Mabárik Benbey has this day paid me a visit, and requested me to send a letter for him to London. All the people here are my friends; and I am sure I could get on if the Sultán would leave me to myself. I have to wait here a fortnight, imprisoned in the castle of Agadír, Mashallah!

Tuesday, Mar. 29.—Therm. 66°. As I was going to bed I heard the din of preparation; my soldiers were moving into the court, and others placed above, and one in the door-way with his gun. On asking the reason, I was told a fine story about some bad people outside, who were determined to lay hold of me, and that they would not allow me to proceed. I am thus completely a prisoner, and with little chance of getting[75] away; but I have made up my mind to bear all. The night, however, passed away without any disturbance. Two soldiers started for Mogadór, and I went out attended by the Káïd and the four soldiers here, to Fontí. The whole town turned out to see me. On our way down I found the same kind of shells occurring, as those we had seen on the road: they run through the mountain, but take a different direction to the strata; the latter run N.E., and are cut by the shells at right angles; I collected several specimens. At Fontí the population is considerable; the people were quite delighted to see me, as they hoped I had come in the character of a merchant, to re-open a channel of commerce, that had been diverted elsewhere: formerly this was the great depôt of trade. There is a fine bay here, and good anchorage; and every article of commerce is to be had twenty per cent. cheaper than at Mogadór. We returned by the road leading to Tildee: the people here say they could find freight for two hundred vessels, as all the produce of Súdán, and the oil, almonds, and gum of Sús, could be shipped here; and that they could take in return all kinds of English produce, in cloth, iron, &c., for which there would be a ready sale. Returned home, when one of my soldiers, an Issówi, was seized with the devil: it took four men to hold him down, and prevent him from jumping over the battlements. He then broke away from us, and throwing himself upon the ground began tearing himself: I never saw anything so explanatory of the account in Scripture. The cure is as curious as the disease. They burn some benzoin under the nose of the patient, which quiets him for a time, but as soon as the fumes cease, he breaks out again, and lays hold of every thing within his reach; in some cases he has been known to destroy children. This poor creature ate several pieces of paper, bits of lime and dirt; but when the words “Sídí Benel Abbás, Sídí Abd-el Kádir,” &c.,[84] were pronounced, his hands, which had been firmly closed, were opened: his companions then called upon Abú to say the Fátihah,[85] in which all joined; when he came to himself, although he[76] appeared and talked like a child for some minutes, after which he quite recovered. The weather beautiful. Visited the ruins, and bought a dagger. Ordered one of their shirts, which the natives work very prettily: paid and discharged my muleteers, who are sadly disappointed at my not going on. Passed an hour with the governor upon the terrace, talking upon politics and physic.

Wednesday, Mar. 30.—Therm. 70°. Very close; a slight fall of rain. Not feeling very well, I kept my room. Received a second courier: wrote answers, and likewise letters to Lord Glenelg, his Royal Highness (the Duke of Sussex), to Colonel Fitzclarence (Earl of Munster), soliciting a letter to Hámed Libbú, King of Tumbuktú. A caravan has been robbed: an extra guard was put on me, six above, and ten below. There are great fears about me on the part of the people of Agadír.

Thursday, Mar. 31.—Therm. 72°. Finished my letters, and ordered the courier to start at day-break; did not retire to rest till midnight. During the night there were symptoms of the Sumúm; we were covered with the dust, and almost suffocated by it: the heat this morning is beyond all conception, the air literally burns one’s face. The therm. rose in the sun at half-past ten to 128°., and the one in the bomb-proof battery to 75°., while that, but in the shade, out of doors, stood at 86°. There is, however, a moderate breeze, (from the sea), but it is quite overpowering to pass from one side of the battery to the other. At one P.M. therm. in the sun reached 133°., that in the battery was steady at 90°. Purchased two gold coins, found in rather a curious manner: a boy was pursuing a young pigeon through some ruined tombs, in the neighbourhood, and while he was grubbing out the hole into which the bird had fled, he found three coins; continuing his search, he threw up several human bones, and came at last to a perfect skeleton. The Káïd tells me they do find, at times, coins in the tombs; but these gold Moorish ones are of uncommon occurrence. Not feeling very well I took some zemítaah:[86] I like this much, this is the Mogús of Súdán. The heat has been so overpowering that none of us could move about, not even Abú.[77] At nine A.M. the therm. was 80°. A large fire is seen blazing towards the river. Went to rest early.

Good Friday, Apr. 1.—Therm. 72°. No hot-cross buns here. Read the service. Visited the tomb of Mogonadel, the patron saint of the place; afterwards took a round at Fontí: went thence towards the sea, and from thence to what they call their silver mine, which contains nothing but a few ruins of quartz in the lime-stone and sand-stone. Dispatched a man to the copper mines for specimens. Wind E., and much cooler to-day. Started some hares and a snake. It is said it never rains here, although it does all round. Cohen, and his boy, are gone to keep the Passover with the Jews.

Saturday, Apr. 2.—Therm. 80°. The heat was so oppressive to-day I could not stir out: the therm. in the sun 132°., and remained so for many hours. All of us were done up. We are working in the house in reducing the baggage, and getting every thing in order to start at a moment’s notice. Sad accounts are daily coming in of the people about here; every person who ventures out is robbed and beaten: several people are waiting here for an escort. I cannot so much blame the Shilhahs and Súsís;[87] they have been sadly oppressed by the Sultán’s army; and now it is gone, they are repaying themselves. They acknowledge no law but that of force, and exhibit but little trace of any religion: their tribes extend, with intervals, to the Gambia. This has been a dies non.

Sunday, Apr. 3.—Therm. 72°.—A large wolf stole up to the battery during the night, which roused us all. To-day the wind feels cold, and there is such a heavy fog that we cannot see the sea; the sun rarely broke through. There is, at least, a difference of 40°. between the temperature of to-day and yesterday out of doors, and of 8 to 10 within. Felt not all well, and kept all day to my carpet: beginning to get tired of Agadír. An arrival from Teródánt, but it brought no news.

Monday, Apr. 4.—Therm. 65°. Very cold, and a mist equal to rain. All hard at work in making leather bottles, &c., for the water. Received a large present of fish. A large Káfilah [88] passed this morning for Teródánt. Did not leave the battery all day.

[78]Tuesday, Apr. 5.—Therm. 72°. The mist continues heavy, and quite darkening the air. Not very well; kept within the battery. Alas! all our bread is gone, and these people eat none; and as it is the feast of unleavened bread, the Jews cannot make any for me, a deprivation which I feel not a little. The man was seized again by the devil. Heard the history of the enchanted castle, and the black woman, who lives at three days’ ride from this place. Heard likewise of the Jews, and of the tombs. I must see them on my way to Wád Nún.

Wednesday, Apr. 6.—Therm. 72°. Heavy mist, with rain in the N.W. A dies non.

Thursday, Apr. 7.—Therm. 76°. Beginning to look out for news: my man returned from the mines; the specimens he brought were very bad; he found great difficulty in getting any at all. There was a market to-day, where I bought nothing but a few carrots. Quite tired of Agadír. Hope two or three days will decide whether I can go on or not.

Friday, April 8.—Therm. 60°. Very cold. My fingers were so chilled, that I could not dress myself. At noon a courier arrived; all is right; wrote my letters, and after detaining the man an hour, dispatched him again to Mogadór, to say that we should be ready to start at an hour’s notice. The feast of the Passover finishes to-day: it has been very cold, with a strong breeze from the N.E.

Saturday, April 9.—Therm. 70°. Day beautiful; but a stiff gale from the E. This is the clearest day we have yet had here. The mountains can be seen distinctly: hard at work in arranging bags, &c.

Sunday, April 10.—Therm. 74°. Weather beautiful. Read the service. A large káfilah is now passing from Sús; the mountains very visible; in the afternoon there was a repetition of the easterly wind, accompanied with the dust, which was very distressing.

Monday, April 11.—Therm. 68°. Wind strong from the E. Disappointed again, as Hájí Majíibí [89] will not start for some days. Our horses are to leave Mogadór to-morrow, in order that they may be fresh for the start (‘Inshállah’) on Saturday next.

[79]Tuesday, April 12.—Therm. 68°. The wind has got more to the N. with weather very clear. This delay makes me very fidgetty: besides, I am so well known here, that various reports have been circulated about me, which rather annoy me. In the evening, thermometer fell to 56°, when it became very cold. The horses and mules are to leave Mogadór to-day.

Wednesday, April 13.—Therm. 60°. A dies non. Felt very poorly: had a touch of the lumbago. Weather variable. Thirst excessive.

Thursday, April 14.—Therm. 70°. Looking out for the arrival of the horses, as Hájí Majíibí is to start to-day. The people here are rather too inquisitive, and I am getting rather alarmed. Evening came, but brought no tidings of my horses, nor has a courier arrived. I am very uneasy, and all the people here full of conjectures. The Hájí is thinking only of himself. If he would only consider for one moment what an object of suspicion I am, while I remain here, he would hurry on; but no, it is all self in this country. I cannot bite, and therefore I had better not shew my teeth. Wind got round to the E. The thermometer fell 11°., when it became very cold. Went to my carpet rather sulky.

Friday, April 15.—Therm. 70°. This is the first day of the Mohammedan year 1252. The horses, &c. have arrived. I made my present to the Sheïkh; got the Sultán’s letter, and one for Sheïkh Mobarik. A report has reached Mógador, that a party is waiting for me, who have determined to murder me. The governor here is very desirous not to let me go. I question, however, if there are any real grounds for these fears. At half-past seven there came on one of the severest gales of wind I ever experienced; it threatened the very fortress: a heavy sea, with lightning in the S.E. The gale from the N.W. continued to blow hard till half-past nine. This change of weather may go much against me. I find that I am an object of great suspicion. A party have sent to ask me to prescribe for a man who has been bewitched, and is now in a decline. I promised to see him on Monday, although he lives twenty miles off. This may, however, do me some good. The people of his tribe offered[80] to bring him here, but I pointed out the danger of removing him, and hope to gain their good-will by going so far to visit a Muselmán. Tired, but not sleepy: no appetite, and out of spirits.

Saturday, April 16.—Therm. 72°. Day beautiful; the gale passed off without doing any damage. There was one about six weeks ago, which threatened destruction to the whole place. Despite all I said about the sick man, they have brought him to-day to Fontí. I had promised to go down and see him, when the sun was a little lower; I was scarcely half way down the rock, when I met him on the road; he was attended by eight of his people, who took it by turns to hold him on his horse, a splendid animal; the poor Sheïkh, Hájí Ibráhím, was seriously ill. As he was so far up, I ordered him to the governor’s, and told his attendants to lay him down, and let him obtain some rest, previous to my examination of him. I found him in a sad state, nearly dying to all appearance; he had been frightened, as they call it, by some spirit, whom, as usual, they had burned out: he had been fired all over his stomach, which had now lost all its powers. I gave him a saline draught with tartar acid in effervescence, and made him a good basin of arrow-root. He no sooner tasted it, than he put the bowl to his mouth, and nearly emptied it, telling the crowd, that had now collected to see the holy man, that he had got at last what his stomach was craving for. I promised to make him a breakfast on the morrow, and to give him some medicines. By my treatment of him, I got no little credit; for which I can obtain some help from him in return. Am heartily sick of this place; although it has lost all its commerce, it has still a considerable revenue; it may be considered a frontier town, and is capable of being well defended; it receives one ducat a-head for all slaves that pass through it, two ounces for each camel, half a peseta for each mule, and two blanquillas for each donkey; and as it is in the great road to Sús and Súdán, these imposts produce a large income.

Sunday, April 17.—Therm. 74°. Had hardly returned from my patient, when Hájí Majíibí arrived. I repaired immediately to the governor. All is now arranged for my departure to-morrow, at break of[81] day: hard at work in packing up. Wrote my letters: dispatched Cohen and his boy: received a blessing in the synagogue yesterday, which cost four dollars. I have to part with most of my things, as I shall be allowed only two mules; the sharks are therefore looking out for what they can get. I am quite sick at heart at these Moors: poor ignorant creatures. I have just this moment learned that there is a town E. of Teródánt, called Tazelt, where there is a Christian church, in perfect preservation, well finished and painted, but shut up: it is held in some veneration by the natives, who can only look into it through the windows. There are also Christian villages in the neighbourhood of the church. Went down to Fontí; every thing works well; I am to start as a soldier, accompanying some mules: took leave of my patient, who is to go with me; but not a soul has an idea of this. Cohen is very anxious to go on. I have, at his own request, given him a letter to Lord Glenelg: have packed up every thing: am in a great bustle. I fear, however, there will be some detention to-morrow. I suspect the courier has been stopped, as no escort was visible at sun-set. Laid down to rest, but with no chance of sleeping, as I am to be up at the earliest dawn, to start, if possible, to-morrow.

Monday, April 18.—Therm. 70°. Up at four A.M., but did not get away till seven. I was accompanied as far as the river by the governor, and four soldiers, Hájí Ibráhím, and our own party; in all sixteen souls. At half-past eight we came to the boundary of the district, where a prayer was offered up for the Sultán; after which, the governor and his party returned. In defiance of all I said about Hájí Ibráhím’s state of health, he would go on, or rather his tribe compelled him, to his own house, distant a ride of four hours. Here we stopped, and had kuskusú and barley-cakes with butter, and some leben (sour milk). Ibráhím was, indeed, in a sad state of health.[90] I gave him the medicines I thought best. The perfect indifference shewn by Hájí Majíbí towards a fellow-creature quite disgusted me. Had my horse shod, and proceeded[82] S. to Stúka, attended by a strange semi-devil from the Hájí (Ibráhím), who told me that I need be under no alarm, as he could bring one hundred horse into the field, and had promised to protect me. Crossed the Sús river, which is here a considerable stream, although twenty miles from the sea. We arrived at a little before six P.M., at the house of Sheïkh Hamed, who is a fine young man: he and the people of his town were all out at prayers. The country is fine, with large plantations of figs and almonds. During the time that our food was preparing, I was amused with some good ball-firing, the party standing on one leg or lying down: they are a merry people. We commenced with bread and butter and honey; then came kuskusú; then tea till midnight. Abú here received from one of his countrymen some account of his friends. The pocket-handkerchief is used for the towel generally, and the corner of the mat lifted up for wiping the nose: the belching is quite beastly. Passed but a bad night.

Tuesday, April 19.—Therm. 72°. Up at four A.M. and got off at six. Just before starting, I had the place half-full of patients. I had been bored to death the night before with questions. One man was brought to me with a ball in his foot; and by way of assisting me to cure him, the gun was brought from which the ball had been discharged. Accompanied by the brother of the Sheïkh and four of his people, and Hájí Ibráhím’s semi-devil, we reached the Mésah, a finer river here than at Sús. Its course was S.S.W. We rode along its banks through a fine and populous district, called Assa, and crossed it at the great Sók (Tlátah.) Here we met the Sheïkh of ’Akúlí, with twenty horsemen. Our party stopped; it was a trying moment for me: the two parties held a council, and after some ten minutes, the muhabbah-bik [91] (welcome) was pronounced. Here Hájí Ibráhím’s semi-devil was sent back, and one of the other party took his place, and conducted us to the house of Sheïkh ’Alí at Tamasert, in the populous district of ’Akúlí, from which the sea is distant about a half mile. The people here are said to be very bad characters, and their looks confirm the tale. We had tea and kuskusú. The Sheïkh was ill, and I was required to cure him,[83] and a dozen others; but I pretended to be unwell, and with this view I went without food, for the second day. Some of Abú’s countrymen came to play and sing to him; and thus kept me awake till midnight: afterwards the vermin, which were a worse plague than last night, prevented me from sleeping.

Wednesday, April 20.—Therm. 70°. Heavy rain. Up at five A.M. After eating and drinking, the people took me out to find a spring; they had water enough, and so I pretended to point out the spot where they are to dig. We got off at nine, accompanied by Sheïkh ’Alí. Owing to the rain, we travelled very slowly. I fear that I have had to pay dear for passing this place. We arrived at the residence of a great saint. This humbug has the power of taking me any where through Sús. I bought him for dollars. At this point the Sheïkh left us to return home. The country is completely cultivated: it is backed by four regular rows of limestone-hills, which serve as a kind of embankment against the desert. They are now cutting the corn, which produces more than one hundred fold, most of the seeds throwing out four stems, and some five. I am not over-pleased with my conductor, Hájí Majíbí, who, I see plainly, is making a job out of my journey. We passed the tomb of a great saint, El Ab, where all the party, but the Káfri (myself) offered up their prayers. We then entered a pass, which required some hard climbing. My horse became so lame, that I was compelled to walk the rest of the journey, a distance of three hours; when we reached the residence of another great saint. Here they have to prepare a room for myself, as I cannot be permitted to enter his apartment. My grumbling to-day has been of service. I have some Tumbucktú quilts laid over my carpet to serve for a bed. Received some barley-cakes and honey, but could not eat them; afterwards butter and honey, and leben (sour milk); but it will not do: a biscuit is the only food I have taken this day, although I have fasted for three. The Moors, and Hájí Majíbí amongst them, who had taken some refuse kuskusú from some labourers on the road, were eating and drinking till midnight. Not being allowed to enter the room of the saint, I was put into the[84] garden, until one was prepared. This is the district of Eit Bamáram. The water is here both bad and scarce.

Thursday, April 21.—Therm. 74°. Weather muggy, with much rain. I had been promised that I should reach Wád Nún to-day; but after travelling two hours, having waited till past nine for the Moors to eat three times, we met a courier from Wád Nún, and we were then taken out of our road to a house, where we are to stop all day. This, I am convinced, is owing to Hájí Majíbí not having sent word in proper time. I am most grievously disappointed, but must bear it as well as I can; the day hangs very heavy on my hands. A lot of these beasts came as usual for physic; called me káfrí, and all the rest of it, but could get nothing to eat. I would not advise any other traveller to come through Sús: they ask for every thing, but will neither give, nor even shew any thing. They affect much on the score of religion; never going in or out, sitting up or standing, without the Bismillah. At eight P.M. got four eggs, and had some biscuit. I received a message from the Sheïkh, stating that we are to arrive to-morrow. This place is Tisseret, famed for its copper mines.

Friday, April 22.—Up at four, A.M., or rather up all night. Vermin in myriads. Hurried away; and after one hour’s march, stopped for two more to eat. At length we reached Ifran Ochran, the last town in Eit Bamáram. Passed the range of mountains in Lower Sús, and entered Wád Nún. During the route, saw people reaping corn, with arms by their side. Wád Nún is a large town, with several small clusters of buildings: it derives its name [92] from a Portuguese Queen, Núnah. Hence Wád Nún is the valley of Núnah: the place is distant from the sea a journey of five or six hours. Our first halt was on the banks of a magnificent stream of water. When we came to the spring (Agusa), we washed and drank, while the people prayed. A fine line of hills protects it from the Sahra. We found here the Sheïkh waiting for us, who took us at once into his house: at half-past five he gave us a good dinner, which set me all right. I am much pleased with him.[85] After tea, all the great folks of the place came to see me: as soon as he had read the Sultán’s letter, he sent for Hájí Majíbí: when he came back at nine, he said he wanted three double-barrelled guns, silver-mounted, and the barrels damascened in gold, together with an air-gun; to which I am to add my brace of pistols. I talked over all the wonders of England, and then wrote to Mr. Willshire to tell him what I had done. The Sheïkh assures me, he will send me without the least danger. I like him much: he has a large and fine family. I have brought him a handsome present, and I fear he expects that I shall return this way back: but this is not in the bond. Abú is very helpless. Here one begins to see slavery again: the house swarms with slaves, who form a large item of property. This Berúk is a person of great wealth: he possesses forty thousand head of cattle, and has never less than one thousand camels, working between here and Súdán. His eldest son is a fine young man. Went to bed at midnight, quite done up.

Saturday, April 23.—Therm. 76°. Symptoms of heat. Had my sour milk, and then unpacked my things. The Sheïkh highly amused with the pillow, and the little globe firing the guns: he was smoking and laughing alternately. All goes on well. I was kept up to write my letters, and they are not yet sent off: these people are so very dilatory, where they are not immediately interested. Patients are beginning to come in. The fellows, who were so free on the road, have come a little to their senses. Lots of patients, and amongst them a man, who had been wounded sadly. Had the whole of the Sheïkh’s family with me: gave each of his little children a bracelet. In the afternoon walked about and round the town: went to the Abú Sebah’s tents; from thence to the garden, where I saw a fine crop of apples: saw likewise several heïries, both of dromedaries and horses. As the Sheïkh’s cattle were coming in, I perceived that what looked like a river, was a very small stream of water: it is the Assaka. The view from the heights is rather pretty over fields of tobacco and plantations of date-trees; here and there a garden, and many fine wells: saw a part of my companions, who are to be fasting to-day, but we hope we shall have some supper, although[86] I am sick at the sight of my sable attendants, who have the itch very bad. I shall have to remain here at least three weeks, although I should be glad to shorten the time.

Sunday, April 24.—Therm. 76°. I was kept up till midnight grinding a small barrel-organ; and fainting with hunger, I took at last to the kuskusú, and got some sleep. This morning my patients have increased, so that I am obliged to say “hold.” Here the people are really ill; but so stupid or stubborn, that it is impossible to do them any good. Gorged to their throats, they sleep half their time away, and then wonder they are ill. The houses here are better than any in Marocco, and look like casts [93] in plaster, being built piece by piece in moulds. These people have no idea of taking a draught, and they sip the most nauseous medicines. As soon as all are asleep, I take the opportunity of writing up the journal, and reading the prayers. This is Sók-day, and no little bustle. I do not feel very well, the heat is so excessive. We had a capital supper of meat, mixed with grapes and butter; a strange mixture, but a good dish. A man, who has got a gold mine here, has come to ask me about it. Great doings may be expected here to-morrow, as I have given to twenty persons strong doses of medicine. But they are such fools.

Monday, April 25.—Therm. 70°. Very close; heavy dew through the night, during which I was called up twice to visit patients, some of whom are very ill; but I am expected to cure them by merely looking at them; a most disheartening business. Up early and went to the garden; returned home, and visited patients. All my cigars are gone, and I am now manufacturing a pipe. Have the prospect of being here a month; but I must bear it all, as I am quite in the power of these people. Walked round the town, which is a large one: went to the millah; looked about for springs. Am sadly bored. They will not give me a moment’s rest.

Tuesday, April 26.—Therm. 76°. Very hot, and towards mid-day the sun was oppressive beyond description. Had a strange request from[87] Hájí Majíbí, whom I hate: he had the impudence to ask me for one of my gold watches, although he knows they are worth here five hundred dollars. I shall put him in the hands of Mr. Willshire, to whom I shall write strongly on the whole subject. The Sheïkh had a conversation with Abú and myself this evening, and promised us every thing we could desire; he assured me that he both could and would protect us. I felt quite satisfied with this: but later in the evening, that scoundrel, Majíbí, came and started difficulties; that there was danger here, and much to be arranged there: he was not aware of the conversation I had had with the Sheïkh. I was sadly annoyed, and determined to give him a set-down in the morning.

Wednesday, April 27.—Therm. 70°. Made Abú write, for he cannot talk, to this Majíbí, to ask if he meant to say that his party did not wish me to go on: if so, that I would return, as I cared little upon the subject, and had a ship waiting for me. He was taken somewhat aback at this, and admitted that the observations came from himself, and not from the Sheïkh. I shall write to Mr. Willshire, and give him my candid opinion of this scoundrel, whose object is to induce me to give him a bribe for his assistance. I will see him d———d first. Went out to see my patients, when I was stopped by a marabout, who humbugged me out of a dollar. ’Tis well to keep on good terms with these impostors, who possess considerable influence. This journey will ruin me, and I fear I shall break down. No person can be more kind than the Sheïkh has been; and but for this blackguard I should do very well. I must, however, put up with him, and patiently wait to see how matters will turn out. The people here are a fine race; they wear their hair generally curled, and are not at all dark; they are tall in figure, ride upon spare horses without a bit, and with only a mere rope put round the nose and neck of the animal; they have fine eyes and beautiful teeth. The majority of those in better circumstances have one or more of the desert-horses, which are fed entirely on camel’s milk, and this only every fourth or fifth day. It is very strange that they know nothing of the Jebel Khal, the black mountain; Sók Assa is[88] distant only one day’s journey; Tatta four; Akka five; Tódeny twenty; from this to Arowán is another twenty; and thence to Tumbuktú seven. There is another route to Tumbuktú. From hence to Woden or Weddán, the name better known, twenty days; then to Tishít ten; and to Tumbuktú ten more. Caravans frequently go to Jennah from Tishít; from thence to Gwalátah, they say often; thence to Drah in ten days; to Táfilelt in fifteen, &c. Some of my patients are improving; others giving up medicines altogether. There is a Muselmán-fast to-day, which is slept away. The weather has become very cold. The thermometer has fallen 12°.

Thursday, April 28.—Therm. 68°. Some rain has fallen in the night. I was called up to give the Sheïkh his medicines. It is perfectly useless doing any thing for people who take five meals a-day, and pass the rest of their time in sleep; with no exercise and no employment, but sitting outside their doors or inside their walls, to see on whom they can pounce. It is really sad to look upon the two sides of the picture, which this place presents; the one, the possessors of the soil, the daring, hardy, and commanding inhabitants reduced to the level of the brute by his indulgence in food and sleep, with the past forgotten, the future uncertain: the other subject to slavery in its most abject form. A large káfilah is expected from Mogadór to-day or to-morrow, and one from Súdán in a few days. These will enliven us; but I hardly dare venture out. The Christian is still upon me. The population may amount to two or three hundred families, together with twelve Jewish, who are the working classes, and manufacture good guns and daggers, ornaments in silver, brass, &c. They are also the tailors and shoemakers, and do the iron-work. The Muselmáns are the intermediate merchants, or cultivators or breeders of cattle, which are very fine. There are some Talebs here, and one has written for me a few prayers most beautifully. Four káfilahs leave this place annually, consisting each of slaves varying from three hundred to one thousand. At that time a large encampment is formed outside of the town, where they collect and prepare for the journey. I have been used most rascally[89] by Majíbí: I wish I dared kick him. Went out again to look for water: had a conversation to-day about Christians, whom these people conceive to have no idea of any religion. I tried, but in vain, to explain the matter to them. I have evidently some foes here, because I will not submit to be plucked unmercifully. I should be left without a penny or a rag, were I to give all, or even half of what they endeavour to extort from me. I am fairly tired out. The weather feels very cold. The thermometer is down to 60°. We have had some rain to-day. I am anxious to get out; but fear I am in for at least another month, and must bear it.

Friday, April 29.—Therm. 58°. The wind is still east, and all are suffering from the cold: I feel the effect of it, being but thinly clad. It tells pretty sharply to a man with bare arms, legs, and feet. It is a sad state of existence, where no one cares for his fellow, and throws off a person the moment he ceases to be useful. As soon as they have got what they want, they care not what becomes of you. I hope this is not the case with the Sheïkh, who is certainly a very superior person; but I find I shall have great difficulty in managing my affairs here. Abú is not competent for this. To-day we are to have a private conference with the Sheïkh, as soon as all the persons are gone to the mosque, which is here a mere circle of large stones. The kiblah is not quite due east, but rather to the south of it. I wish the Sheïkh was quite well: but it is impossible to do him, or any of these people here any good, with their five or six meals a-day, and without exercise of body or mind, except a constant craving after sensual enjoyments and for gold, gold, which is always uppermost in their thoughts. The subject of Beïrúk’s [94] communication was to have an English consul resident at his port,[95] and to open a trade direct with England; that for this purpose he would send one of his sons to London to manage his affairs; that by these means the route to Súdán would be opened at once; the whole distance be[90] performed in forty or forty-four days, and a large trade be carried on; that a courier would perform the journey to Súdán in fifteen or twenty days, according to the heat—more wonderful for the man than the beast; that England would receive in exchange gum, almonds, wool, hides, ostrich feathers, ivory, and all the produce of Súdán, which would find its way to Wád Nún rather than by a lengthened journey to Marocco. I wrote to Lord Glenelg on the subject.

Saturday, April 30.—Therm. 60°. Wind still east. The Sheïkh now thinks it will be impossible for me to cross the desert for the next four months, owing to the great heat. The last caravan-kafilah left only a fortnight before I arrived, and none go during the summer. I told him that I ought to be sent on to overtake it. This he promised to do, if I wished it; but he warned me of the danger of all the party perishing from the want of water, as all the springs are then dried up, and the camels cannot carry heavy loads during the hot months. I have written to Mr. Willshire, and a courier has been dispatched to Tumbuktú to say that a Christian is coming, accompanied by the cousin of the King, Hámed Libbú. Hájí Majíbí now finds that I am too canine for him to be in the same apartment, and thank Heaven he has removed. I have the utmost contempt for this beast. The population of this place rather exceeds six hundred, with great capabilities for increase. The Sheïkh has about four hundred horse that he could bring into the field. Went to the Millah, where I saw a very beautiful woman anxious to get away. Her husband is one of the principal workmen here. Provisions are cheaper than in any other place. A good bullock may be purchased for 20s. to 30s.; heifers, 15s.; a sheep, 2s. to 4s.; fowls vary: I paid ½d. each; bread, ¼d. per lb.; wheat, 5 to 6 pesetas; barley, 3 to 4 do. A camel varies in price from 20 to 30 dollars; a slave from 20 to 100. All accounts are kept in mitcalls.

Sunday, May 1.—Therm. 50°. The people are half killed with the cold. Read the prayers. Received newspapers from England through Mr. Willshire, and walked round the garden. The cold was so intense this evening, that I was compelled to put on two cloaks. The Sheïkh[91] is still harping upon his favourite project, and complaining that all his profits go into the hands of the Sultán of Marocco by the trade through Mogadór.

Monday, May 2.—Therm. 60°. Symptoms of the weather becoming warmer. This will be a great comfort to me: bare feet and arms feel the cold too severely. Fasted all yesterday; hope to get something to eat to-day, as there is a savoury smell of kabábs. It is wonderful to witness the fear the children have of a Christian. The itch has broken out with violence amongst the people: I suppose I shall have my turn. There is one comfort in the cold; it drives away all the vermin, to which the people here are quite indifferent, as their skin is so thick, that neither lice or fleas can penetrate it. The káfilah from Súdán is expected in twenty days. The cold felt here is not unusual at this time of the year, as our winter is their hottest season. Am extremely anxious to hear from Mogadór.

Wednesday, May 4.—Therm. 60°. Weather warmer; but I still feel the cold: went only to the gardens. A part of the káfilah is just arrived; it made its journey in haste: it brings accounts of a war between the Fellátahs and Bambári. This will make it rather awkward for me, should hostilities continue, although I do not pass in the immediate vicinity of the people of Bambári.

Thursday, May 5.—Therm. 60°. Suffering from a severe cold to-day, did not go out.

Friday, May 6.—Therm. 68°. It got very warm towards noon. I have now been a fortnight here, and with every prospect of being detained a month longer. I am bored to death by the people, of whom the more I see the worse I like them. Had a visit from Sheïkh ’Ali, and a part of his tribe: I was obliged to be civil, lest I should have to return to Suweïrah; as in that case he would protect me. Health but indifferent, as I can get no peace or quiet from the importunities of the people here. Three persons have just come sixty miles to ask me to tell them where the silver is to be found, that they know is in great plenty about Tamenart. The old mines are not worked; but the nokrah is in the field (ground). I told them it was impossible to give an[92] answer without visiting the spot, or seeing some of the stones from it. If I am to stop to make them all rich, Heaven knows when I shall come back. As I have the character of a magician, every dirty devil in and about the place claims a prescriptive right to the entré, and the beasts come loaded with vermin. Took a short walk, and retired to rest.

Saturday, May 7.—Therm. 70°. Weather beautiful. Feeling myself much better, I strolled to the water, which is not a river, but a kind of lake. Met with rhododendrons in full flower, and saw a great variety of odoriferous shrubs, with an abundance of tortoises. I was followed by one of the Sherí beggars for money. A nephew of the Sultán has got off under [96] .........[97] order. The river Assaka is to the south of the mountains that enclose Wád Nún; but I can gain no information about it. Sick at heart with my evening parties, which occur quotidie (daily). Received letters from Mr. Willshire. It is lucky that we are here: we have done the big wigs.

Sunday, May 8.—Therm. 70°. Weather is becoming quite warm; was up early, and read the prayers: sent Abú to the Sók, and tried to purchase a dagger, but it was too dear. The Sheïkh’s son bought one at night, but it was not equal to the one I had seen. Found a document relating to the Auléd Deleim, one of the Arab tribes: took a walk with Sheïkh Ali, whose people returned to a sheep-killing, &c. I have no chance of sleeping, as they are to leave at day-break.

Monday, May 9.—Therm. 72°. Weather beautiful. The camels are collecting for the Sók: the best will not fetch more than thirty mitcals, and good ones are to be bought for twenty. This animal changes its name every year for the first nine years; but after that time, it is the jemál. In the first year, and while suckling, it is el howar; in the second, el ben áshar; in the third, el bellibún; in the fourth, el hak; in the fifth, el zoa; in the sixth, el thání; in the seventh, el erba’; in the eighth, el siasí; and in the ninth, el jemál: the female is called[93] nákah: it has been known to work for thirty years; after which they are turned out. The Heïri horse does not cost more than from sixty to one hundred dollars. All kinds of cattle and food are cheap to a fault. With regard to their buildings, the rooms are long and narrow, but without windows, as the doors answer for that purpose; and there they keep their guns, swords, saddles, powder-horns, &c. Driven out of the room by vermin. At four, A.M., I commenced washing my clothes.[98] The Jewish gentleman was offended, that I did not pay him a visit on the Sabbath: after this, I helped to cut up the sheep, and set about preparing my own food; but as these people think I dislike what they cook for me, I ate a little by way of training, and I shall now have a daily dose of it. Abú gets more helpless daily. I fear he has become religiously crazy. Walked to the water, and then had a large party in the evening, which kept me up till midnight.

Tuesday, May 10.—Therm. 76°. The heat is returning again; very sultry at noon. Saw the Sheïkh’s three wives, and his numerous family of sons and daughters; they were more pleased with me than I with them; there were two pretty girls amongst them, but very dirty: the Sheïkh’s forty slaves, and all the family, were out to see one of the ladies off. Walked round the whole place, which is larger than I thought: ascended a hill that commands all the approaches to the town; it formerly had a fort upon it, and should have it now. On the east of the town there is a large enclosure, surrounded with walls, where the great Sók is held. There are twenty large public ovens for cooking meat and bread; ten smaller ones for fritters, made of honey and butter; and some for sphynge and kuskusú, and many matmórs for corn; and a good supply of water.

All are in expectation of this great day, or rather of these three days. Sidi Hasan, and all the people from the neighbourhood, will be here. Beyond the enclosure is a very neat tomb of the Sheïkh’s predecessor, from which there is a good view of the country. On the plain are many scattered villages, and four extraordinary hills, distant from each other[94] about one thousand yards. By the last is meant the mountains which shut in a part of Wád Nún: in the back ground is a fine range of hills, about one thousand feet high. I am now in my third week here, with every chance of detention for three or four weeks longer. I got rid of my evening party by pretending to be ill.

Wednesday, May 11.—Therm. 76°. Weather most favourable for acclimatizing me for the Sahrá. Went to the house of ’Omar to see Banna; had two ladies to examine. There was too great fastidiousness on the part of some, and too little on the part of others: from this I went to the Millah. My pretty patient is better to-day, but is very stupid, as they all are: the Jewesses bear away the palm of beauty; and dirty as they proverbially are, they are cleanliness itself, as compared with the Arab ladies, whose filth, dirt, and misery, are dreadful. A consul lives here, which is quite absurd. Received many blessings. Had some disturbance about my horse: the people are beginning to find fault, and my food is falling off; nor do they give the same hearty welcome as formerly: the fact is, one must be always giving to get on with these people. I took to my haik, and like it much better than the sulham. I am nearly devoured by flies by day, and fleas by night. Am pleased more and more with Hájí El Khirefí, who is to take us, I hear, to Súdán, where he has been twenty times. My evening party was much better behaved than usual.

Thursday, May 12.—Therm. 75°. Went to breakfast with Solomon the Jew, whose wife is making up my shirts, and mother washing my clothes; but such is the fashion of the place. Went some distance up the bed of the river, which is now quite dry. Nothing is talked of but Sidi El Rásí and the Moutardi, or the forthcoming great Sók. Food is very bad, and the meat stinking. Saw a beautiful gun that was made here; the Sheïkh promises to get me one [99] before I go. Some rain fell before noon, and it became quite cold, as evening came on. To-day I had many more lady-patients, as Abú calls them; their complaints are curious. One is to be fattened up to thrice her present size.[95] Several wish to know how they are to become mothers: many want me to give them the powder which Christians have to make people love them. Eyes to be cured out of number; and as they are far too many for me to attend to all, I have selected two, who are very ill, and whom I think I can cure, and I have put the rest away as incurable. Rain has fallen all round, but has not yet reached here. The husband of the pretty Jewess has sent to say, that he shall feel hurt, if I do not breakfast with him, as I had breakfasted with Solomon. I promised to go to-morrow.

Friday, May 13.—Therm. 78°. Went to breakfast with the pretty Jewess; her husband is a man of some information. We had too much to eat: afterwards walked about two miles up the bed of the river, which, when full, must contain a large body of water. Visited the Arab tents; on returning, saw some very fine women, but they were beastly dirty. Morality is here at a very low ebb; the husband prostitutes his wife, and the father his child; and this is considered no disgrace, if it is done for a valuable consideration, and not for love. Witnessed a very disgusting scene with the Sheïkh; he has three wives all living, but he still likes his slaves: his fourth wife died lately; she was an Arab of great beauty, for whom he gave two hundred camels, twelve slaves, and a great quantity of produce. His eldest son is a chip of the old block, and is running after every woman he takes a fancy to, the pretty Jewess excepted, whose person is considered sacred. Three Moors have destroyed themselves for her in a fit of love, and all come to see her. As she is a patient, I can visit her daily. I am becoming very impatient, and the people tell me I have a quick temper: but the fact is, time is no object to the people here; their care is merely how to waste it; as soon as one meal is finished, they want to sleep till the time for the next arrives. It is quite dreadful to see the sad state to which human nature is degraded in this place. The small-pox has broken out with great violence, and I have to run the gauntlet without the least chance of escaping from it. A slave was brought in, charged with attempting to[96] run away; it appears to have been a little love affair: he was punished by having a fifty-six pound-weight fastened to his leg.

Saturday, May 14.—Therm. 74°. The poor creature is still chained, and has not a drop of water, although it is now mid-day. The Sheïkh should have clean hands before he thus punished others. Went out again to the bed of the river, and made the round of the Khiesin: met many beautiful women, if they were only clean. Their husbands are all gone to Súdán; had to prescribe for some fifty of them; they wanted me to make their faces of the same colour as my legs and arms. My watch, rings, &c. were a great object of curiosity with them: had a little difficulty in making some of them shew their tongues, which they consider a mark of impudence; they all like to be closely examined; their figures are perfectly beautiful; most of them were at work. I had prayers and thanks in abundance. One very merry lass had on her neck a curious collection: it embraced a little bag of spices and scents; the nail of a horse-shoe; a leather charm, called horse; a broken shell; a large glass bead; another horse; a shell again (habha); a small habha, consisting of a circular piece of agate, and a large horse at the centre, from which was suspended the horn of a young ram; and the same things were repeated, forming the circle. Some of the women work beautiful háïks, blankets, and carpets. In the large tents are two beds raised on feet, with a cradle, the canopy for the bride. There are two tents in each inclosure of thorns or prickly pears. Visited the Millah, and then home.

Sunday, May 15.—Therm. 76°. Had a long conversation with Zeïn, who was at Tumbuktú when Major Laing was killed.[100] It appears that Hámed Libbú gave all the protection he could; but that the Sheïkh, to whose care the Major was entrusted, expected to gain a large plunder by his destruction. Zeïn had seen also Caillié [101] several times during his stay there. Things have now changed. The government is now[97] Fulání. Hámed Libbú killed four thousand of the Tawáriks in one day, and has quite reduced that tribe to subjection. These marauders are, however, still in force between Tumbuktú and Sakatú. A large portion of the former place, inhabited by the Tawáriks, has been burnt down. Zeïn tells me there is no chance of my getting to Sakatú. The Wád and the river are both beset by the Tawáriks. The distance by land is forty days to Jennah, which is distant from Tumbuktú eight days; from thence to Sansanding and Ségó four or five days; and from thence twenty days to the source of the river. To Kóng he did not know how long the journey was; but it is very distressing, and is all performed on foot. Read the prayers. Day very hot towards noon. There is a little quiet to-day, as all the people are out at the Sók; which has been but badly attended, as there is no arrival from Suweïrah, and the káfilah will not be here for some days. Walked out and looked at Wesnúnah, which is about six miles south, and to As-sérir about four east. The Sheïkh has about forty villages, containing a population, they say, of twenty-five thousand. My spirits are much depressed to-day. My position is truly miserable: I am bored to death, and obliged to submit, through the fear of making enemies amongst savages. I have scarcely a book to while away the time, and no means of improving myself, or getting information from others. I have at last learnt the name of the river; it is the Bontkonman, or, as some call it, Buatkuman: it is called also Mulasar. The large river that is laid down in the maps, as the Akassa, runs nearly due east and west, flowing through the south of Wád Nún to the sea. The river here comes from Eít-Bamáran, and runs towards the mountains east, and is lost in the sand. At present there are only a few patches of water, the stream having failed to a mere dropping spring, which the Arab tribes consume. I have been much amused with the Arab ladies; their frankness is quite extraordinary. I shall give away about twenty dollars to them, as soon as I arrive at Sídí el Rasí: it will be money well laid out. Had a very pleasant hour with the Sheïkh, giving him a description of the battle of Waterloo: he said the joy here was universal, when they heard[98] that the French had been beaten; for they are detested in these parts. He said that the price of ostrich feathers had declined terribly; the very same quantity which could once fetch twenty and thirty mithkáls, could now be bought for three or four.

Monday, May 16.—Therm. 72°. The day beautiful; all have been busily occupied for some days past in carrying the corn; the crops are very heavy; they are now treading it out; camels, horses, mules, donkeys, and boys, are all employed indiscriminately. I am feeling severely the effect of hunger: I have now been two days without food, except some bad bread and eggs. If these people think I am going to beg for every thing, they will find themselves mistaken. I shall wait two hours longer, and then send Abú to see if any thing is to be bought. I had ordered some food yesterday, but I could not get it cooked. To-day I have received a present of meat, and the Sheïkh has asked me to drink tea with the party. I am afraid, however, of being too much with these people. Three-fourths of the whole population have been inoculated in the left ankle for the small-pox: how they will manage at the large Sók, I know not. I have been here nearly a month, and there has not been a single death; this, in so large a population, speaks much in favour of the healthiness of the spot. I am anxious for the Sók to take place; for I shall then know how long I am to stay here.

Tuesday, May 17.—Therm. 72°. Weather close, and air heavy, and feels very sirocco-ish. A host of people are under a course of physic. The Sheïkh’s sons have taken up their position in the garden for the day. Received letters from Mr. Willshire, and some for the Sheïkh, which I hope will decide the question. I have been here a month all but two days. Preparations are making for the Sók.

Wednesday, May 18.—Therm. °. The heat is coming on with great power. Some of the Damání have arrived from Tagakánth, and the Súdán caravan is expected to-morrow. I walked out to the four hills leading to the sea. Mashulí is gone to the Sók at Tinzí. From Wád Nún to As-serír three hours; to Tergezít one day; to[99] Tínzert one day; to Oúfren two short days; to Tazerwelt, the residence of Sídí Hasan, two days; to Tinzí three or four days. This line is often taken from hence to the desert. Visited all the gardens to-day; but there is not a single vegetable cultivated here, with the exception of a few onions; fruits, however, such as grapes, figs, dates, pomegranates, and prickly pears, are in abundance. In some of the gardens I found one or two apple-trees: but they never wait for the fruit to ripen. The Sheïkh is rather fidgety, but has said nothing.

Thursday, May 19.—Therm. 76°. It was very cold during the night, notwithstanding the doors that have been put to my room. There is an evident change for the better in our treatment: but I am more anxious about a change of place, and the permission to let us be moving to the south. Something was said, but not to me, of our going in about a month. The Sheïkh has evidently something on his mind, but is afraid to speak out. He is an extraordinary person; I have never seen such a combination of opposites in any individual: at one time proud, arrogant, austere, despotic, and occasionally savage; he then changes his character, and becomes low and grovelling, or else full of kindness, frank and open-hearted: now severely punishing his slaves, and now taking the meanest and dirtiest to his arms, passing at once from finery to filth. Although he thinks nothing of cooking three or four sheep a-day, yet he will ask for the refuse of my tobacco-leaves to fill his own pipe. He is much led by others, and in constant fear about his money. He has a numerous family, four wives, forty female slaves, and hosts of children in all the tents, as he is an universal lover. The wretched state of many of his children is beyond all belief; they are covered with filth and vermin, and clothed in rags. His hoards of treasure must be very great; and as much of it is buried, it will be lost, perhaps for ever, should the owner die without disclosing the place of concealment. The people are all in a great bustle, preparing for the Sók. The place has great capabilities, and would yield, were the people of industrious habits, an immense revenue; but all are afraid of each other. I am now so changed in[100] appearance, that I hardly know myself. I cannot master the language. The electrical horse has lost its power since its arrival here. There is a Sók to-day at Tinzí, from whence the people come here: none are more anxious for it than I am, and none will be more pleased at returning home than I shall be at going on. I have at last resolved, if a delay of more than a month is proposed, to retrace my steps to Fez, and start afresh In-shá-llah! I have written my journal up to noon; at which period all were looking out for the káfilah. At two P.M., eight camels and twenty individuals of the Damání tribe arrived here from Súdán, bringing with them gold, cloths, and twenty slaves, whose looks were savage in the extreme: they had a profusion of long black hair, and were half naked; their lips were remarkably thin, and their teeth looked like ivory; both themselves and their animals looked sadly haggard, and the whole affair tended rather to throw a damp upon my feelings and future movements. I have now told the Sheïkh that I would take no further excuse: he painted in strong colours the dangers and privations I must suffer, if I started except with a káfilah; but as none will move for four months, I determined to commit myself to the care of Providence, and take merely my guides, our guns and pistols being our escort, and not to take the road by Taudení and ’Arrawán, but to strike at once across the desert, and make for our point. Only one man is said to know the track, and I am to have him. All will be settled to-morrow, and I shall start one way or the other, after the Sók. News has been brought of the defeat of the Felláṭehs by the people of Bambárah, and that Hámed Libbú has come down to Hamdu-li-llah, which is about 250 miles south of Tumbuktú.

Friday, May 20.—Therm. 65°. It feels very cold, with a strong wind from the N.W., and heavy clouds. News has been brought by a second party, that the crops in Súdán have failed; that the Tawáriks have assembled on the east of Tumbuktú, and that most of the inhabitants have quitted the city, partly through fear, and partly to seek subsistence elsewhere. This morning we have heard more bad news: the Fulání are said to have been again beaten, with immense loss:[101] some of the female captives have been brought to the Sheïkh; four as a present: they look well, and are well dressed, and do not seem to have suffered as much by the journey as their inhuman traffickers. This is a trying scene for poor Abú, as most of the captives are from the neighbourhood of the place where his family reside. The expedition for the slave-market has not been so fortunate, although the war has furnished an immense number for the people of Bambárah. My heart sickens at the sight of this horrid practice. In another lot of these unfortunate beings were six women, one of whom had given birth to a child on the road, which was thrown into the bargain. There was an old wretch who had come from Suweïrah to purchase female slaves: his examination was carried on in the most disgusting manner. I could not refrain from calling down the curse of Heaven on these inhuman wretches: in many but little feeling is shewn for the poor blacks; and they seemed to think less of their own fate than I did, who was merely a looker-on. One poor creature, however, who was a finer woman and less black than the rest, shed tears: I could have given her my dagger to have plunged it in the breast of the villain who was examining her: and yet these people pray four times a day, and think themselves superior to all God’s creatures. More than ever do I wish to get away from this den of hell-hounds. Each of the grown persons were in the prime of life, and had once possessed a home, and were more to be pitied than the children, who had never known the liberty of thought and act. To each of the ten slaves was given a lunch of bread; while both the inhuman buyers and sellers, after chuckling over their bargains, went to offer up their prayers to Heaven, before they took their daily meal. Can such unhallowed doings be permitted to endure longer? Oh! spirit of civilization, hither turn your eyes, and punish the purchasers, who ought to know better; for thus only will the sale be stopt. At length something has been settled definitively with the Sheïkh: I am not to wait for the káfilah, but to proceed with a few camels and five guides, the whole of whom I am to pay for; and we are to take the courier’s track, by which we shall reach Tumbuktú in forty days from starting. I am to leave this place ten days after the Sók. So far so good.

[102]Saturday, May 21.—Therm. 66°. Wind still very strong. Parties are coming in for the Sók. Another small portion of the káfilah has arrived: the main body is expected here on Monday. Walked the entire circuit of the town, and visited the burial-ground, which is the prettiest I have seen in this country. Most of the graves are planted with flowers, and all are kept in good order. The tomb of Sídí El Kádí is very neat. Coming round by the gardens, I met some of the Damánís, who are anxious to take me on. Had a visit from a Sheïkh, who has just returned from Tumbuktú, where he has resided many years: he has been two months on the road, his camel being a weak one. Feel in much better spirits to-day.

Sunday, May 22.—Therm. 70°. Weather beautiful. Read the prayers, and kept the house till three P.M. Another arrival from Tumbuktú: they were two persons of consequence upon white camels, and four others on their eshreb el ríhhs;[102] all were in good condition. They say that the káfilah will be here to-morrow. I am half-famished.

Monday, May 23.—Therm. 72°. The heat is increasing. Parties are arriving from all quarters for the Sók. News was brought this day, that the káfilah had been attacked by the tribe of Erdebát. The people of Tagakánth went out against them, and have taken from them one thousand camels, five hundred horses, thirty slaves, and all their arms, and have driven them towards the sea: this will make the káfilah one day later in its arrival here. Took my walk towards Agadír, and went afterwards to the Arab tents. Felt not very well. Am anxiously looking for the káfilah from Mogadór, which ought to have been here to-day, and is now looked for shortly after sun-set to-morrow.

Tuesday, May 24.—Therm. 76°. Weather melting towards the middle of the day. Went to look at the preparations: they are well arranged, and upon a large scale. The Sók are our fairs; the road exhibits one line of camels, horses, mules, and donkeys, the Sheïkhs vying with each other in the number of their attendants. The bulk of the Súdán caravan is not yet arrived, but expected at day-break. All[103] here are very civil to the Súdán people; and all are anxious for me to go on. The Moors are just as jealous of hearing the name of Súdán mentioned. I sat on the ground, first with one party, and then with another, and heard from both the same story about their gold and silver mines: the brass, they talk of here, is iron pyrites and copper pyrites. I have received many invitations. The slaughter of cattle for to-morrow is immense: we have five sheep killed for the consumption of one day at this house; the public kitchen is all busied in preparing kuskusú and other eatables. The noise is beyond every thing I ever heard; nor must I expect any rest for the next three days and nights: the thing is really worth seeing. Of the whole mass of people collected together, I am the only individual not personally interested in it.

Wednesday, May 25.—Therm. 76°. The great gathering for the Sók still going on. I was kept up nearly the whole night by a strange creature from Dar’ah, whose wife had run away from him. He is convinced, from what he has heard, that I am a magician, and can give him a charm, that will not only bring the lady back, but will make her love him. Nothing I could say would persuade him to the contrary. I gave him one of my verses from the Koran, of which Abú wrote an explanation, and which I finished by ..................... and some figures; this he carried to the Sók, and I had lots of applicants: the man is perfectly satisfied, and says that he now cares little about buying or selling. The Sók is a scene highly interesting: here are to be seen tribes from all parts, and individuals from all places. The great káfilah from Súdán has not arrived, but yet there are above twenty thousand men and animals, and many more will be here by the opening. To-morrow ten sheep will be killed for this house, which is like a booth at a race; my own room not excepted. I have here thirty guns, ten of the best saddles and bridles, powder-flasks and bags out of number. Abú was employed for two hours in making tea for my visitors. Not the least chance of sleep: all are in good humour.

Thursday, May 26.—Therm. 72°. During the whole night the house has been like a bear-garden. My patience was quite exhausted by the[104] number of patients. Went to the Sók; it was a curious sight; but finding that I took off the attention of the buyers too much, I was returning home, when I met the great Fakír Sídí Mohammed. The influence of this man is quite extraordinary: he took me to every stall through the mart for the camels and horses; then to the kitchens; the crowd that followed us was immense. I had been grossly insulted in the morning, and threatened to shoot a fellow; and had given tongue, as far as I could, to six others, when a man forced his way through the crowd, and after kissing the Fakír, and whispering something in his ear, I was immediately hurried home; when I was there, I was told that my life was in danger, and advised upon no account to stir out again to-day. I observed two or three ill-looking fellows, who, I believe, were only kept in check by the Fakír, who told me that many a hand was on the kummiyah.[103] So much for the great Sheïkh Beïrúk’s power. I will give him a pill to-night. The Sók is considered a poor one.

The káfilah from Súdán having been attacked, and driven out of its route, has not arrived. The people of Tagakánth are not here, and others, from ten other places, are absent; while the people of Erdebat dare not come. Had they all arrived, they would have made the Sók twice as large. I have made up my mind to be contented with what I have seen, and I shall not go out to-morrow. This is a poor return for the trouble I have been at amongst these people. I am sick at heart with them all. I have been most outrageously insulted this afternoon, and which has been repeated with interest. In the evening I wrote to Mr. Willshire, to tell him I must abandon the thing. I have also told Sheïkh Mohammed my mind pretty freely, and I shall wait till Saturday, and then take my steps one way or the other: bear the thing any longer I cannot. It was curious to see slaves dressed up, and placed amongst the goods. The Marabouts [104] were very numerous; one strange figure on horseback especially collected a good deal of money from the gazing fools.

[105]Friday, May 27.—Therm. 78°. Kept my word as to going out; took some bread and tobacco, and went off to the bed of the river, where I found a snug hole, surrounded by Oleanders, into which I crept, and passed there three hours very pleasantly in reading five of the satires of Horace. Saw persons passing and repassing; came out, and reconnoitring, could easily perceive that they were looking for me; there were three sets on horseback, and four and five in pairs, on foot. As soon as all was clear, I crept away to the part they had left, and was nearly suffering from it: the sun was intensely hot; suffocation came on, the pulse rising to 140°, or scarcely perceptible. I had no lancet, or on recovery should have bled myself. As I found myself sinking, I became alarmed, and bent my way towards home: on my arrival I found the Sheïkh was in a great stew, and had sent persons in every direction to find and bring me back. I was very ill, and driven nearly mad. Abú makes so bad an interpreter, and is so fearful of speaking out, that I am in a sad position. Did not go near the Sók. I have determined to make an example of one or two, and that will make the rest quiet. Starved myself the whole of the day, and took some medicine.

Saturday, May 28.—Therm. 76°. Morning cloudy, and appearance of rain. Find all the people more on the alert this morning, except poor Abú, whom I have been scolding to get rid of a little of my own bad temper. Feel very poorly to-day, and shall adopt the starving system again. The Sók finished to-day at noon; and all the roads are now crowded with persons returning home. Upon the whole it has been a failure, as the káfilah from Súdán did not arrive, and many of the tribes kept away through the fear of the small-pox. Sídí Hasan, the great star, did not make his appearance; and his brother came with very little style. I have written very strongly to the Sheïkh, complaining of the treatment I have received, and have determined to go on or back; I care not which: no common stock of patience could alone bear what I have had to suffer. These are without exception the most strange and savage people I have yet seen; they are without government,[106] laws, or honour, and with no trace of feeling, except on matters connected with money-making, eating and sleeping. Any man may, and often does, shoot another out of mere caprice. The only persons not exposed to the dread of this fate, are the Marábuts and Saints: the Sheïkh, rich and powerful as he is, dares not shut his door against the dirtiest beast who thinks proper to enter. The kuskusú or tea-pot is a general invitation, and any and all may come in and feed. The Sheïkh is sadly annoyed at my letter: and my carrying matters with so high a hand will do some good: much, however, as I grumble and threaten, I must bear all. To return is impossible, and the danger of getting again through Sús is worse than all that the desert can present. A party, as usual, to drink tea in my rooms. Abú is quite disgusted, and poor Mahmúd and Seïd are in tears: they are the only two persons in the place who have a grain of feeling.

Sunday, May 29.—Therm. 78°. Got up very ill, and in bad spirits, and worse humour; took physic again, as my head is very bad. In consequence of having so many patients, who are returning from the fair, I have taken my Bible and Prayer-book to the garden, and locked myself in, where I read the service, and afterwards got a good sleep, and returned home in the evening much better. Abú tells me that the Sheïkh is very uneasy that I am ill, and am so dissatisfied, and that my conduct has cut him to the quick. A large arrival from Súdán of ivory and gum: one fair is hardly over before another begins. The people of Súdán are better than those of Wád Nún: their haggard looks belie their feelings; all of them are my friends, and I only wish that they and we were moving southwards: I would give any thing to get away. A party again to tea.

Monday, May 30.—Therm. 72°. We have had a bad night; a violent wind from the N.W. has given us all the rheumatism and lumbago, which the people are working off. Preparations are making for the káfilah, which is to start to-morrow for Suweïrah: all the guests are, thank God, gone. During the time of feasting all our best crockery was brought out: the highest guests were served in a wash-hand basin,[107] and a certain other utensil was considered one of the most useful pieces of ware, from its having a handle: they could scarcely believe me, when I told them its use in Europe, and that extravagance had led some people to have it made of silver. Abú told them that the King had one of gold. I was not so much astonished at its use here, as we had our wine out of the same kind of vase at the house of the British agent in Marocco. A Jew was brought up for theft. The Sheïkh at length tells me that he has written to Tagakánth; this has raised my spirits, and I feel better; have starved for three whole days. The whole place is so full of ivory, feathers, gum, and wool, that it is difficult to get about: the natives are much surprised that I am not preparing to go back: I have, indeed, a difficult game to play. Five hundred sheep and goats were slaughtered for the fair; and the quantity of kuskusú and other eatables was immense.

Tuesday, May 31.—Therm. 78°. A quiet day, and a day’s quiet is quite a rarity. Did not leave the house; had some conversation with the Sheïkh, who seems to waver; still talks of the danger of the journey, and is desirous to detain me here. I have determined that he shall write to Tagakánth; if the expense is now to be exorbitant, I must wait for the kafilah, and go with Zeïn. Had I gone at first to him, I might have saved five hundred dollars. A young camel was killed for a feast to-night: I was so sickened at seeing some of the Arabs, and amongst them a relation of the Sheïkh’s, who took a large piece of the hump, and ate it raw, that all my appetite was gone for the night.

Wednesday, June 1.—Therm. 78°. It became excessively hot towards noon. At half-past two P.M. the thermometer in the sun stood at 120°. Walked out and visited some Arab women; one of them had been brought a ten day’s journey across the desert, merely for me to look at her. The people of her tribe told her that I had given away all my medicines; but I could still look at her, and order some change in her diet; and she, poor thing, fancies she shall still recover. They would have me eat some dates, the largest and finest I have ever seen. Took my usual walk. The Sheïkh and I get on much better, although there[108] is but little chance of my proceeding, as the people of Tagakánth are carrying on a fierce war with those of Erdebát: but as the Sheïkh’s káfilah is detained in the Sahrá, I hope he will have to send for it; and this may be the means of helping me off. Got all right again, thinking of Horace’s expression—

Thursday, June 2.—Therm. 76°. Strong wind N.W. Went out to the mountains, and saw the bed of the Sey yad, which takes the name of Assaká, after passing the town of Asserír. The man who accompanied me said, that the Wád Dar’ah run into the sea at two day’s journey S. of Wád Nún; and four days beyond this, there was another river running from the Sahra into the sea. The town is now quite quiet. I feel anxious for the Sók Molud, which will take place in a few days, and then the Damánís will come here. No account of the káfilah.

Friday, June 3.—Therm. 80°. Dies non. I was hardly in bed, when one of the slave-boys fell from the roof of the house: they were going, I believe, to let him lie and die. I got him washed, when I found that he had broken his right arm and lower jaw; had knocked his teeth out, and his lower lip half off; the right knee, too, was dreadfully cut. I could hardly get these savages to point out a place where to lay him; all seemed to think he would not be saleable, if he recovered. I set his arm, bound up the jaw, and sewed up the laceration in his knee, and took off a part of the lip. I fear they will not pay the least attention to the poor little creature, who has been the most useful and hardest worked of the whole lot. I could hardly get warm water to wash and examine him. What my fate would be in the event of an accident, I may judge from this. I heartily wish I had never come near the wretches.

Saturday, June 4.—Therm. 80° and got up to 90°, at two P.M. when it was 123° in the sun. This is the hottest day we have had; for though the solar heat was greater at Agadír, we had not near so great a degree[109] of heat in the shade. The poor boy is very bad: it appears that he was literally beaten off the roof by the beast Sudy Salaam. One of their own doctors has taken off my bandage, and displaced the bones. I have now done with him; yet poor creature he could be left to die even for a drop of cold water, but for Abú and myself. I wish some of the people to meet with a similar accident, and they should have taunts enough from me. Went out to see the La’b El Bárúd. There were but few riding, except Arabs; who rode very well. Returned home looking anxiously for the post to-morrow.

Sunday, June 5.—Therm. 84°. Read the prayers; and afterwards cleaned out my room, this being the only day when I can venture to do it, as the people are all at market. The heat has increased excessively. At half-past two P.M. the thermometer was 95° under the corridor. The solar heat is unbearable. The poor boy is suffering much. The person who came from Marocco, calling upon the tribes to arm, is already returning. Foolish people. I recommended the Sheïk to have nothing to do with the matter, but to send his produce to Suweïrah, as soon as possible, as I feared the port would be blockaded.

Monday, June 6.—Therm. 88°. We were to have started this morning; but there is now no chance till the káfilah departs. How I am to exist here for two months longer I know not. The heat is excessive. Thermometer in the shade 100°: the very water is warm. Wrote to Mr. Willshire, to send me a courier by express, on whose arrival I may ground my application to the Sheïkh for some definite arrangement.

Tuesday, June 7.—Therm. 86° up to 100°, in the corridor. Too hot to move out: wrote all day. In the evening a set of niggers arrived from Tumbuktú; they kept the whole town alive and awake through the whole night with their music and singing: we had a picked lot here, and some Arabs, who sung with great effect, beating the ground with their hands by way of accompaniment: one lad had a very fine voice. All their songs were extemporaneous: one was made to suit me and my situation, and their opinion of my chance of success. As I cannot see to write till day-break, I have determined to try if I can get some sleep, despite the great noise.[110] These people know nothing of hours; they eat, sleep and pray, when it suits them: they only regard the number of times each of these acts are performed in one light and one dark, as they call the day.

Wednesday, June 8th.—Therm. 85°. The whole place has got so baked by the heat of the three days, that they say it will not feel cool again for the next three months; that every day will be hotter and hotter till the houses and ground crack, when there will be a change. Too hot to stir out: I am getting very dissatisfied.

Thursday, June 9th.—Therm. 88°, at midnight 95°. Walked out to the lime-stone mountains: from this spot a pretty picture might be made of the town with the gardens; to the east the tomb of Sídí El Rází, and before it the Sók; the game of La’b el Bárúd at the back of Mes’úd’s house; on the west the heaps of corn with camels, mules, donkeys, and boys treading it out, and others winnowing with a shovel. Four black ladies have visited me to obtain a charm: the first wants something to make every one love her; the second that her piccaninnies may live; the third to know who ever has spoken ill of her; and the fourth to be made happy. The medicines have not yet arrived, but are to come next week. The heat is excessive. Some arrivals from the desert; but no hopes of our getting away.

Friday, June 10.—Therm. 85°. To-day our kuskusú was enlivened by a pumpkin, the only vegetable we have now had for seven weeks, except our daily onion: the pumpkin was a present, and had travelled far. Things are improving, if these hogs would only let Nature take her course. Last week they stripped the only apple tree in the place of the fruit, which was just formed, and to-day they have done the same to two apricots, because the heat of the few last days had just begun to turn them yellow. The grapes are eaten when they are as hard as stones, because each is afraid that another may get them. The heat is more oppressive than ever. The Sheïkh and all our party are in high spirits, in consequence of the arrival of some good news from Senegal.

Saturday, June 11.—Therm. 86°. Heat very trying through the whole day. I was asked whether the sun shone in England, and whether we had[111] the moon and stars like those seen here? They would not believe me when I told them that the same stars they saw me looking at last night where just over the house in which I lived in London, and that we called them the Great Bear, and spoke of its tail, head and legs. I surprised them much by pointing out several constellations to them. Went only to the garden. Cannot get my letters taken to Suweïrah. Am most anxious to have matters put into a train.

Sunday, June 12.—Therm. 86°. Read the prayers, and finished poor Bruce: was much struck with many points of resemblance in our cases. Felt not very well, and did not leave the house: witnessed a sad scene in the evening. Some money had been stolen, and the slaves in the town were charged with the theft: one poor creature was tied up by his heels, his head bleeding profusely from a blow he had received whilst being brought here. In this position he was stripped and flogged with some plaited cow-hide over his legs and back: after hanging for half an hour, he was let down; when others were brought in to undergo a similar punishment. But my nerves could not stand it. The heartless wretches seemed, however, to enjoy the writhings of the poor creatures, whose misfortune it is to be black. Sick of the scene, I retired to my hole, and did not go out again. At night Abú told me they were released, lest the people here should be disturbed by their cries for water. The poor creatures had been under torture for some time, and stated they had not had their food, when they were brought here; and what is more horrible, some women were amongst the number. No regard, however, is paid to sex. The poor blacks are all káfirs in the wise judgment of these chosen people.

Monday, June 13.—Therm. 80°. It felt cold during the night, and this morning it is cloudy and oppressive. I feel hardly recovered from the disgraceful scene of last night. The Tagakánth people have at last arrived. I wish I had got my letters from Suweïrah, as this would be a good opportunity for speaking on the subject; although I would now rather wait for Zeïn and the káfilah, which would be better on the score of safety; besides the rains would be nearer their close. The unfortunate delay at[112] Gibraltar has done all the mischief. These people were the van of the great Súdán káfilah, which has now arrived with more than three hundred camels: the rest have remained at ’Akká, Tagakánth, &c. About eighty persons have arrived with it. Never did I meet with any people who gave me so complete an idea of savages. Their bodies are a mass of dirt, and their wan eyes are sunk in their heads; their teeth of pearly hue seem starting from their gums. They wear the hair long and in large quantities, some curled and others plaited. Half-dyed blue with the khoart, and half famished, they present a revolting exterior. But never did any people improve so much upon acquaintance. I had seen the Pindarí horseman in India, the Leoni savage in Arabia Felix, the Wahhábí in Yemen, the ’Abábdeh and Bisháré in Arabia, Petræa and Egypt; but all these have a great advantage in appearance over my friends the Damánís. The káfilah brought large quantities of ivory packed in skins; about four, six, or eight teeth on each camel ............ looking like small canoes; many loads of reïsh ostrich feathers; one hundred camels laden with gum, packed in hides, through which sticks are passed, and they are then slung like panniers on the back of the camel. Several Tamar [105] dates and a few bales of Súdán cloth: the camels that carry the gold have each a man riding to take charge of it. As soon as the animals were unloaded, the twenty Damánís came to the Sheïkh’s house, where they devoured a sheep with nearly half-hundred weight of kuskusú, and a camel-load of ripe mashmash (apricots), and then all lay down to sleep: in about an hour they got up and shook themselves, and then came in a body to see the Nazarene. I had some difficulty to keep myself from being smothered by them. The Sheïkh Kheisfer came to drive them away; when one, who seemed to have some command, said, “Nazarene, we are wild Arabs; none of us have ever seen a Christian; we know you are a great man; if our coming thus to you offends you, we will go; if not, astonish us. You are a magician; shew us some fire.” I lighted some tinder from the sun with my glass; and then shewed them my small globe, telescope, watch, pistols, &c. afterwards a lucifer-match; and, lastly, I set fire to my finger, dipping it in spirits of terebinth. This was too much for them: they became[113] alarmed; I then got my sword, &c. afterwards gave them snuff: they all smoked my pipe, and when that was finished, and I had examined all their eyes, and given many of them medicines, and would not take money for it, I was told I had only to say ‘Resúlí Mohammed,’[106] and go any where. This was the general wind up, and La’b el Báród finished the day: and as the evening saw my rooms filled again with these wild men, I was fairly tired out.

Tuesday, June 14.—Therm. 76°. It felt so cold in the night, that I was obliged to put my cloak over me. Day had hardly dawned, when Abú called me up to write to Mogador: my door was instantly beset by my Damání friends, all asking for He jjám (Physician). The intense curiosity of these people forms a striking contrast to the apathy of the Moors. They, however, overdid the thing, and I was compelled to order them all out. The Sheïkhs ’Alí and Hámed then visited me: they said they were the sons of the great Sheïkh of Taghakánth, and hoped I would allow them to come in, and they would not sit upon the carpet. From both of these intelligent persons I learnt many particulars respecting the route to Tumbuktú. They said they had been fifty days coming from Jennah, but they had often done it in less: the last time they were only forty-four days, allowing for halts; they say there are three roads to Tumbuktú; from hence to Waddán twenty-five days; but it can be done in twenty-two with light loads; from thence to Tishíṭ in thirty-five, if a person were a good traveller, and would go direct to that place, but by Waden he would want rest; from thence to Walátah ten days, and fifteen from thence to Jennah. The time will be the same by the other route to Tumbuktú; from hence to Taudenní twenty-five days, where one must halt; thence to ’Arrowán ten days, and stop again; from thence to Tumbucktú, five or six days; but the whole distance is sometimes performed without stopping: and this the Sheïkh Beïrúk says I must do for safety. The situation of Tumbuktú, as far as I can understand the account given by the Sheïkh’s sons, is very different to what is laid down on the map. They gave a flattering account of Hámed Libbó; that he has recovered from all his losses, and has an army of 100,000 men, in good order, and[114] that one of his hands is stronger than both of the Sultán of Marocco: I have made great friends with these people. In the afternoon I was honoured with a La’b el Báród. I find I am obliged to keep myself somewhat like a prisoner, through the fear of some Moors here. I have a bad foot, and besides am suffering from a disappointment. My party have not refused, but are afraid of proceeding. My expenses too have been and are still very great, and with little chance of their being lessened: should the money from England not arrive, I am a lost man; hence, I feel no little anxiety for the letters by the packet. The great Sók (Sók el Múlíd)[107] commences to-morrow; it is called Sók Aksa in the map, is distant twenty-two miles E. from hence, consequently the town of Nún is given incorrectly, for it is twenty-five miles E. of the sea. The river flows to the S. of it, the Búkukmán runs E.S.E., and then turns S., and joins the large Sayád, which flowing W. past Assaká, there takes that name, and empties itself into the sea. Three days S. of the Assaká is the river of Dar’ah, which is said to run into the sea, at a point, three days distant from this place, and that all the country on the N. bank, and a slip on the S., is brought into cultivation. From the Sheïkh’s sons I learnt also that each ostrich yields from five to ten pounds of feathers; the young ones produce the least quantity: hence the birds average about seven pounds. The usual number of eggs found in a nest is fifteen, although most of the birds lay twenty. The Shérb el Ríh [108] (drinker of the wind) generally comes up with the birds on the second morning after being put upon the track; they kill them with short heavy sticks, about two feet long, and in most cases skin the birds, many of which arrived here quite perfect; the feathers are packed in bundles, secured by pieces of the neck of the skin of the bird.

Wednesday, June 15.—Therm. 76°. Weather much cooler. The Damánís are beginning to feel the difference of food. The slaves were astonished that I did not drink hot water (tea) to-day, as well as the others. Foot very sore.

[115]Thursday, June 16.—Therm. 75°. All employed in putting a lock upon my door, as my room had been robbed. There has been a fight among the Jews: it arose from my giving the preference to the chief Jew for making some bread: his mother-in-law has been cruelly beaten: all are in arms and in a great passion. The people with the small-pox are walking about, sad figures; the only remedy used here is a small piece of stick, one end of which is covered with common tar, and occasionally forced up the nostrils.[109] I have now been here two months, and there has not been a single death out of a population of seven hundred grown persons, with hosts of children. The weather has become much cooler. Had another row about my food. I am almost starved. Mahmúd cut his stick [110] to-day. The sick are increasing, and I am heartily tired of them. Not over well myself.

Friday, June 17.—Therm. 72°. The change of temperature has been felt severely. I learnt this morning that the Jews’ quarrel arose from the jealousy of making my bread, and washing my clothes. A strange sort of justice is administered here; the beaten has been fined seven ducats, and the beater eight, because he was the richer person. I dare not intercede for my beaten friend; and were I to pay the money for him, he would be compelled to pay it again when I leave this place. All gone to the Jennah, but the Sheïkh, who is again demeaning himself with the poor and much to be pitied slaves. Would to God I could get away from this den of infamy and villainy: I see, however, but little chance of doing so. The Arabs, who the Moors call savages, are a superior race of beings to the wretches here. The son of the Sheïkh of the Damání told me plainly this morning that he would not ask Beïrúk even for bread to make a poultice, which I have recommended him to apply. I have no bread myself or I would give him some; and[116] after this row amongst the Jews, I shall be worse off for food than ever. I received a dinner, but it cost me a dollar; which is rather dear living. Sheïkh Mohammed has rather offended me.

Saturday, June 18.—Therm. 75°. Morning hazy, and feels scirocco-like; it became very hot towards the middle of the day. It is the glorious anniversary; how will it go off in London after a peace of twenty-one years. Hámed Damání is quite recovered, and the Sheïkh’s eyes are better: the latter cannot understand how some small pills should make his mouth sore. Patients out of number, and myself out of temper, looking most anxiously for letters from Mr. Willshire, which now must be on the road. Under any circumstances, I cannot expect to get off in less than a month; but only let that be certain, and I shall be satisfied. Hope my letters from England will arrive at the end of this month. I try but in vain to study. The house is a perfect bear-garden; the room very dirty, and I dare not venture to clean it: my things, once out of doors, would all go to rack. These people and the Arabs from the desert, have no sort of idea of time, nor have they any thing to distinguish night from day: the only regularity is respecting the number of the times of prayer, ablution and eating: they sleep, eat and drink, as nature prompts them; and are always ready, if an extra bowl of food is brought. I am tired to death.

Sunday, June 19.—Therm. 80°. All are hard at work in packing up for the Sók Múlíd (Sok Assa), to which they go to-morrow. Another disgusting scene took place in the court-yard this morning. A fine woman was pulled about, and exposed amidst the jeers of all these beasts: as she was handsome, the price asked was 150 mithkáls; but none would offer more than 130. As the bargain was being concluded for some Aj and Reïsh, there was a short deficiency to make up; which, after much cavilling, was settled by throwing in a little boy. This was, indeed, a sad scene for a Sunday morning. Went to my den in disgust, where I read the prayers, and kept out of sight the rest of the day. The place is crowded with strangers. Spoke very strongly to the Sheïkh about my detention; he assured me that he was only consulting[117] my safety; that in eight or ten days all arrangements would be completed, and begs of me to be patient.

Monday, June 20.—Therm. 76°. The house is comparatively quiet: most of the party are gone to Sók Múlíd. Had a quiet day, throughout the whole of which there was a cool breeze from the N.W. The sun set in a heavy bank running along the whole of the horizon.

Tuesday, June 21.—Therm. 68°. Up at one A.M. to take observations, &c.; the night was very clear, and the bank disappeared in the W.; the wind was N.W., with heavy clouds in the S.; the mist lowered to the tops of the houses: a heavy rain in the S.W. by W., but clear towards the N. At nine A.M. all the place was in commotion, and the Sheïkh and his people were off on horseback in different directions, to look for a thief, who got into the yard of the house last night, and stole the Sheïkh’s favourite white horse. The Sheïkh’s son has returned, but the Damánís and others are in full chase. The stolen horse was one of great speed, and the thief had eight hours start. It will be interesting to know when the Damánís will come up with him; they have got their Shérb el Ríh; have looked at the print of the horse’s feet and his dung, and they will be sure to trace him by either sight or scent: like the B’híls in India, if they once see the track they never lose it. At ten P.M. one man returned, who stated that the Damánís said the horse had stopped, and they would now find him before morning. The man who brought this intelligence had ridden sixty miles, without intermission, on a mere bag of bones. The horses from here are not like the Shérb el Ríh; they are knocked up after five hours’ work: but the animals were all fresh when this man left them. My horse was to have gone with the rest; but as the brute of a son of the Sheïkh Mahmúd had thrown him down, being a very bad rider, and had broken both his knees, I would not let the poor creature go. The Sheïkh Beïrúk says, he would have kept up with the best of them; and I know that those of Hámed Damání, of Hájí Ibráhím, of Sídí ’Alí, of Zeïn, and of Habíb, can go for three days. I should certainly have liked mine to be tried. But his state[118] was not such as to warrant the experiment; although the people said that he would go just as well with broken knees as sound ones. No post arrived.

Wednesday, June 22.—Therm. 70°. Heavy and lowering; got cold towards the afternoon. Feeling unwell kept the house. No post.

Thursday, June 23.—Therm. 80°. The Damánís returned late yesterday, and without the horse, which they say is concealed somewhere. It had not gone beyond the place they reached; they supposed it had its shoes changed, and was taken to Sók Múlíd, where a party was dispatched this morning. The lock of the door of the Sheïkh’s house was picked by means of some hard paste of flour and water. The locks are all of wood, and the fastening consists of three or four small pegs of wood, which fall into corresponding holes. By forcing in the paste, the pegs were thrown up, and the door opened without any noise, and the horse stolen. The Sheïkh was more vexed at its happening during my stay here, than at the loss of the animal. I am out of health, spirits and temper. Kept my room the whole day.

Friday, June 24.—Therm. 80°. In the evening, after an uneasy day, the post arrived, bringing a letter from Mr. Willshire, which astonished me. I have been robbed right and left by the villain Majíbí, who states that he paid 320 ducats for me in Sús, or I should have been taken and sold; that Sheïkh ’Alí called me his prize, and he would have 500 for me. This fellow is the prince of scoundrels. The people from Taghakánth, for whom the Sheïkh had written, arrived in the course of the day, and I hope to-morrow to know what they mean to do.

Saturday, June 25.—Therm. 82°. Very hot and close; a melting day before us. Had a long conference with the Damánís; but nothing was said on the subject of my going. They made repeated attacks on the creed of the Christians, and spoke of the impossibility of our going to heaven without the aid of the prophet. I was strongly urged to turn Mohammedan: they would give me camels, nákahs, slaves, &c. I was at length obliged to silence them. After this came the newspapers, out of which I made some extracts, which Abú read to them in Arabic, and[119] with which they were highly pleased. They hoped the Sultán would persist in attacking the French: they said that these districts could furnish, mount, and arm fifty thousand men; but though they are fond of exaggeration, I think that twenty thousand might be raised in this quarter. A man has come this day to say, that he knows of two Christian slaves in the desert; they are Spaniards. He wishes to know if I would buy them, or if the consul at Suweïrah or Tangier would. After this, he asked me for some medicines. I gave him a settler, by asking how he could come to me a Christian, and ask for medicines, when he had taken these poor Christians, and meant to sell them? Upon this, some words ensued; to which the arrival of the Sheïkh put a stop. I told him to go to Suweïrah, and asked how could he expect mercy, who shewed so little to others? The heat very oppressive to-day. The Damánís were right: the stolen horse did not go beyond the place they pointed out. They have this day returned, having taken the thief, and his brother, who had stolen three cows: they had ridden the horse to death. The two brothers have made a pretty disclosure. They were sent by the son of Sídí Hasan to murder Billah, a confidential servant of the Sheïkh, who had left the service of Sídí Hasan, because the son of the latter had violated the wife of Billah. If they could not kill Billah, they were to seize and carry away his present wife, who is a pretty woman; and, failing in that, they were to steal the Sheïkh’s favourite horse, as a punishment for protecting Billah, who, with his wife, escaped both the murder and abduction, and the Sheïkh’s horse fell the sacrifice. For this pretty job the fellows were to have about three shillings each. I hope the Sheikh will shoot them. At length the Damánís have been to my rooms, and told me, that if no káfilah is to go for some time, they will proceed with me. I like them much; they are fine specimens of wild men, but not savages. A large party of them came in the evening, and staid till one A.M., and only left me to go and eat.

Saturday, June 26.—Therm. 82°. Symptoms of heat by the haze over the mountains; spoke to the Sheïkh, and all appears to be settled, but[120] the main point is the money. If this is to be exorbitant, I shall give up the thing at once. This question is to be arranged, when Hájí Majíbí comes home. I fear I shall have a quarrel with that fellow before I get off. The Sheïkh recommends the káfilah: I am aware it would be the safer course, but I could not so well make notes and observations, and should be bored to death for advice and medicines during the whole road. If it goes soon, however, I shall join it; if not, I shall proceed with my five or six people. Read the prayers; most of the people here come to listen, although they could not understand a word. The tribe of Ergebát [111] has sent a deputation to the Sheïkh, and have this day been heard, and have explained the cause of their attack upon the Taghakánths. The Sheïkh decided in favour of the Ergebáts, and there is to be a reconciliation and friendship. I must try to profit by this event, and get past the Ergebáts before hostilities are renewed, which will be soon the case. The heat has been oppressive to-day; I am rather glad of it, as it helps to season me for the desert. Hope my party will not come this evening. This is one of the great feasts amongst the Muselmáns; but it is not kept here. The 12th of Safer is Mohammed’s birth-day. Went to rest early, fearing my party would come.

Monday, June 27.—Therm. 86°. The heat has become very oppressive. An express has arrived from Taghakánth, with a report that the place has been attacked by the Ergebáts, who mustered nine hundred men; while the Taghakánths, who were taken by surprise, could bring together only three hundred to meet the enemy: these, however, were sufficient to defeat their assailants, after killing ninety of them, with a very trifling loss on their own part. This is bad news for me, as we shall assuredly be attacked when passing the district of the Ergebáts. The Damánís have set off in haste for their place. Hájí Majíbí has returned; he is brought down considerably, and came in a very humble manner to pay his respects: he is a consummate scoundrel. Had a visit from Mas’úd, who wished to give me a Tumbuktú quilt; but I can take no presents, and he left me in dudgeon at my refusal. I dislike this man more and more. Things are at last in a train; but I had a threatener[121] this morning, having nearly fallen two or three times, in consequence of the great heat and excitement, and the immoderate use of tobacco. I shall try to leave off the pipe, and begin reducing the quantity of fluid. Very weak tea and water have been my only drink for more than three months; and I must now leave off the tea. Attended the unpacking of the ivory: some of the teeth are immense. Abú tells me, that I shall see some as large rotting on dunghills; that the people about Kong live entirely upon elephants, and are constantly employed in hunting them. The small tusks are used for music; but from the want of means of transport, the large ones are thrown away. Hámed has just been here to take leave: he is a most grateful creature, and promises that wherever I meet any people of his tribe, they will respect Ján and Yaghá. He then said he had one more favour to ask: I had cured him, and had given him too many things; but as he knew I could do any thing, “I love,” said he, “the daughter of the brother of my father; she is the prettiest woman in our tribe; I am dying for her; but she does not love me, although I am the Sheïkh’s son, and shall be the Sheïkh myself; give me such a charm, as shall force her to love me.” It was in vain that I told him, I had no love-charm. He said that I had given one to the son of the Sheïkh of Dar’ah, and that his wife had come back to him. I had then to make up a story that I must see the lady, and, as she is unmarried, fold the charm, while she looked on. This he is convinced will prove effectual; and when I get to Taghakánth I am to make him happy. I don’t know what he has promised to do for me. My two guides remain here to make the necessary arrangements about our start. I have been asked, if I will fight, should we be attacked, and have had to give a specimen of my ability to use a sword and pistols. My powder and ball, and every thing else was approved of, and I am promised that all will be well; but that I must make up my mind to some suffering; that they will carry extra water for me, but one Samúm [112] may drink it all up. The die is cast, and I must run the hazard.

Tuesday, June 28.—Mekkí died yesterday. This is the first death[122] since I have been here; and even this man might have been saved, had he followed my advice. A large arrival of poor female slaves: I was astonished at their spirits, especially when I saw the parting of two sisters; they certainly have not the same feelings as the whites. I am sorry to admit a point, which I have often strongly contested. During the evening I was taken very ill, and compelled to lie down.

Wednesday, June 29.—Therm. 82°. Took calomel, Hunt’s pills, &c., last night. Fainted away this morning, and had a great swimming in the head, but wanted courage to bleed myself. I mean to try what medicines and abstemiousness will do. Was very ill all day: took my carpet to the garden, where I passed a few quiet hours; went early to bed. The heat very oppressive.

Thursday, June 30.—Therm. 82°. Hazy and lowering. This morning another arrival from Taghakánth. A small party from Súdán has likewise been attacked. This last party confirms the news of the attack on Taghakánth, and brings intelligence that many of the Taghakánths have been killed. My room has been stormed by these fresh arrivals. I am sick to death of them, and have been poisoned by their stench. It is impossible to help myself, and the Sheïkh dare not say a word to them. The courier has arrived, and brought most satisfactory letters from Lord Glenelg, Mr. Hay, Mr. Willshire, &c. Had a party in the evening. All were anxious to see the King’s letter. Being much delighted, I staid up till two A.M. writing.

Friday, July 1.—Therm. 84°. The Damání crowd is off, and now comes the settling question. I saw at once that extortion was intended; but I cannot get Abú to act or speak with any force. They want two months to prepare. Asked at first 2,300 dollars; after much wrangling they came down to 1,500: this, added to the extravagant sum demanded by the Sheïkh, is more than I can venture to give, without the sanction of Mr. Willshire. I have written to him to know how I am to act. That same villain, Majíbí, who has already robbed me of 320 ducats, is at the bottom of all this. I hold a threat over them, that I have another way open. I now learn, that a report has got abroad of my[123] being one of the royal family of England; that I have plenty of money, and that the people of Sús intend making me pay a larger sum for permission to return. We have counted too much on the Sheïkh. This has quite upset me.

Saturday, July 2.—Therm. 84°. Lots of wounded. The trouble I have in persuading these people that all cannot bear the same quantity of medicine, is quite provoking. I have made up some bread-pills to complete the number, where one would require three, and another only two. The Damánís have dropt to one thousand dollars, but I have refused to give an answer till I hear from Mr. Willshire. I sent to inquire about the two Christian Spaniards, who are in the desert. Wrote to Lord Palmerston, at Sheïkh Beïrúk’s request, and to Lord Glenelg, Thom, and G. Dodd. Sat up till day-light, having to dispatch my courier early. Laid down just as the sun was rising.

Sunday, July 3.—Therm. 82°. The Sheïkh came to me as soon as I had laid myself down. He told me that the Damánís were under an idea that I was a person of great consequence, and have large sums at my command; and that they have only to ask and receive. He said that as I should be obliged to pay the one thousand dollars to get on either way, I had better make up my mind to it; that he must admit his own agent had played the rascal, for he had not expended the sum he claims; but as he has received the money from the consul, there is, I fear, little chance of getting any of it back again. Wrote to his Royal Highness, Lord Glenelg, Mr. Hay, &c. Sent for my double-barrelled pistols, but forgot the spectacles. Sent to Mr. Hay for some knives and other things from Gibraltar. Read the prayers, and took to my carpet early, as I had been up two nights.

Monday, July 4.—Therm. 84°. Symptoms of great heat. Received a large present of Kermesú Nasárá, (fig of the Christians) and the prickly pear, (called Tagharnúp by the Berbers); they came very acceptably: there were also a few half-ripe pears and some apricots; I am afraid of fruit, but ate some of the first. The Damánís are very anxious for my answer. The Sheïkh Mohammed Múlid tells him, he will make[124] an oath AHAD .................. that he will conduct me in safety to Tumbuktú and Jennah, and that he will obtain for me whatever I want from Hámed Libbú. I like this man; but have been so often disappointed, that I have some fear of eventually changing my opinion. He is more frank and open, and more like the man of his word, than any I have seen since I set my foot in Africa. Had great fun with the Taghakánth people, giving them some imitations of character. We are all friends. I was struck with the quiet and happy state of the slaves lately arrived here, who say they would not accept their liberty on condition of having to cross again the desert. This gives me a fearful idea of it; but I will try it.

Tuesday, July 5.—Therm. 84°. The Sheïkh Mohammed Múlid came to make his AHAD oath, that he would protect me, and do all in his power for me. Wrote to Mr. Willshire all particulars (of the information I had received), and likewise told him that Mons. Anthoine D’Abbadie intended to start from Tunis. Four slaves are here from Kóng, who have told Abú that his cousin and school-fellow Kutúk the warrior, is now the king of Kóng, and that his power extends to Ashantí. An Arab from some distance came in to-day with some savage-looking wretches: I was sitting or rather lying on the ground writing: I sent them off in a hurry; but was afterwards told that the Arab was a great Sheïkh, who, having heard of the arrival of a great Christian Sheïkh, had come to pay me a visit. On his return I told him that he ought to have taken off his slippers; he made a fair apology: I then asked him to sit down; when he said that he had heard of a Christian who could tell by a little magic thing, where any place in the world lay; but that he could not believe the story, and had therefore come to ask me about it. I humoured the man, and got out my pocket compass, and told him to question me; when I told him where each place was, and the number of days, which I had already learnt, between any two or more places. He then stated, that he had heard that I walked half the day and half the night, and was never tired. Is that true? said he; to which when I replied in the affirmative, he asked to inspect my feet, and after counting[125] my toes, he told his companions that I had only five on each foot: he then examined the knee-pan and cried out Wáhed aëdá, ‘only one;’ then taking me by the hand, he praised the prophet. From this, as usual, he asked to see every thing, when I had to open boxes, &c., and could hardly get him and his party away: he then asked for a present; a little tobacco did here, but as he is coming again to-morrow, (it will not be so easy to satisfy him). I learnt a good deal from Tayyeb about Tumbuktú; he says that it contains sixteen mosques, of which Sídí ’Alís is the largest; that it takes two hours to go round the city, which now reaches to Kabrah; and that has a village contiguous to it on the north; that in these countries people walk but little: that its markets are now better than those of Jennah; and that people come to it from all quarters. He states also that Lamdo Lillahi [113] stands on the river, whereas the map makes it appear twenty miles to the east. He lived till he was thirteen years old at Tumbuktú, and has been here more than two years: he knows more than most persons of his age; but is a great scamp. His mother is one of Hámed Libbú’s family, and I therefore put up with many of his rogueries. The heat has been very trying to-day.

Wednesday, July 6.—Therm. 84°. At eleven A.M. the town was alarmed by the report that all the Sheïkh’s camels had been stolen. All the people mounted, and set off armed: even the women went out of the town on the road to Agadír, to see what was going on. At two P.M. most of the people returned: the report was only partially true. A few had been stolen, but the direction they had taken was known. Mohammed Sierra mounted my horse, and with two others went to get a reinforcement on the road. The reports about the great power of the Sheïkh, are all moonshine: it is in reality nothing. During my stay here, I have seen much of the African Arabs; they differ greatly from the Asiatic: they are more wild in their appearance, but far more cultivated: nearly all of them can read, and a great many can write. I have been much pressed about giving my answer as to going on. I must wait one week more; although I fear that the two months will have elapsed from the time of deciding. Am very anxious for the villain Majíbí and his party[126] to leave me; I cannot bear the sight of that fellow, ever since I was convinced of his roguery. Am in some anxiety about my gold watch, as the Thillahs have stripped the last couriers that passed through Sús. This Majíbí’s villainy is capable of any thing. I gave him a rub this morning, and if I had only protection here, I would give him the stick.

Thursday, July 7.—Therm. 76°. Had a large party to dinner to day, as the Sheïkh had killed a cow. These beasts have come to feast on the entrails, which they prefer to the meat; on being asked what we did with them, I told them to their utter dismay, that we gave them to the common dogs, as well-bred ones would not touch them. Had some of the meat sent me, but it was not very palatable. I received likewise a present of unripe pears; for these people will not permit the fruit to ripen. At one P.M. about thirty of the tribe of Assereit Terjmert arrived here: they are worse than any I have seen as yet: had a row with them. The Sheïkh and all his people, who are evidently afraid of being asked for something by all new-comers, slink away, and leave me alone with every fresh batch of vagabonds: I told them my mind as well as I could, and then scolded them in English. At night the Aboudah Ich Saabi came, as it was expected, on a conference relative to this quarrel; but as it turned out, they only came to gorge: a cow is not killed every day. There is a report, that two hundred horse will be here to-morrow, with what truth, time will show. Am happy to hear that the beasts from Mogador are to go back on Monday next.

Saturday, July 9.—Therm. 82°. All are busy to-day in preparing for the káfilah, which is to start for Suweïrah on Monday. Feel far from well. Went to the medicine chest: but find that the least dose disagrees with me. Renewed rumours of wars. The Damánís are anxious for my answer, and I am equally anxious to give one. I know not how things will go on. Am sick of the whole affair, and feel a presentiment that it will be a failure.

Sunday, July 10°.—Therm. 82. Read prayers. The weather is heavy and sultry. This has proved one of the most trying days for the[127] constitution, as the excessive heat has been succeeded by a very cold wind in the evening, and this followed by a most sultry night. All the people are fully occupied in preparing for the káfilah, which is to start to-morrow morning with ivory, gum, &c.; I find that the ivory sells here at seventy mitcal the canter, while at Mogador it brings sixty dollars: the quantity of it is enormous. Felt very poorly all day, and did not go out.

Monday, July 11.—Therm. 84°. All has been bustle to-day. The káfilah had hardly started, when the two hundred horse arrived. They came to hold a conference about going to war with a neighbouring tribe, as one of the Sheïkh’s friends had been killed by a Marabout of that people: after a long consultation, it was agreed, that as the Marabout was non compos, there could be no intention of an insult, and thus instead of a fight we had a feast. The Damánís are preparing to be off, as my answer is expected to-morrow. I fear I must give all the money: it is an anxious time for me. There is a great talk about my long stay, and some of the Shilhah [114] people are not over civil. The Sheïkh, poor man, is desirous to pay me every attention; but he is fearful of enforcing a proper authority over these people. Money is his curse, and he is avarice personified. The heat is excessive.

Tuesday, July 12.—Therm. 84°. The heat is beyond every thing to-day; the sun literally scorches: all are gasping. The slaves are lying about. The Arabs say, that in the Sahrá on such a day, twenty draughts of water would not quench the thirst. It is one of the hot winds. I have been walking for more than two hours to the astonishment of the natives. Evening came, but no post. The heat still tremendous. I have been drinking tea for more than an hour, and am still thirsty. Sent out again respecting the Spanish slaves: hope to get the poor fellows. There has been a slight quarrel between the Sheïkh and his son; but matters are, I suppose, now made up, as the son came to pray in his father’s room. Some ostrich marrow was sent to me to purchase, but I will not buy it without some eggs. Patients are beginning to be troublesome again. I feel myself somewhat better than yesterday.

[128]Wednesday, July 13.—Therm. 86°. Symptoms of summer. Am looking most anxiously for the post. The Damánís have all left, except Mohammed and Hámed, who are waiting for Mr. Willshire’s answer. I gave them a present which cost me thirty-nine ducats: they were highly pleased, and so was the Sheïkh. At three P.M. the thermometer under the colonnade was at 100°, and though there is a breeze, the sun is scorching. All are done up. As there was no post, I was in very bad spirits, and went early to rest: hope to get a little sleep.

Thursday, July 14.—Therm. 84°. To-day all are done up and out of temper, with the exception of Abú. The heat is excessive; we are all stripped to our shirts. Evening brought a cooling breeze, and this brought back our spirits. I was obliged to lie down early, oozing at every pore. Despite my little food, and the great heat, have picked up most of my lost flesh. Am in great anxiety for the post; it has not arrived to-day; if it does not come to-morrow, I shall suspect something has gone wrong.

Friday, July 15.—Therm. 84°. Dies non. Out of health, spirits and temper. No post.

Saturday, July 16.—Therm. 84°. Felt very poorly; kept my bed. Getting out of all patience, as no post has arrived. Am in great anxiety about my watch and letters from England. All this is owing to the villain Majíbí.

Sunday, July 17.—Therm. 86°. Passed a bad night: was up early and went out to bathe. Read the prayers. Was in hopes of the post arriving at the usual time: disappointed. Sent Abú to the market, who brought nothing I could eat; there was no fruit or vegetables. I cannot manage the kuskusú. Received a present of six bunches of grapes from a poor slave boy, to whom I had given some medicines; he had walked out to meet the people coming to market, and had bought all they had. Sent a present of a loaf of sugar to the beautiful Jewess by Abú, together with three bunches of the grapes, to ask if she could make me a pie; for which there is no name in Arabic. I cannot go to the[129] Leïlá myself, but have been promised something as near to Abú’s directions as she can make it. I would have done it at home, but Abú is a bad cook. As the grapes were very sour, I mashed up two bunches with milk and sugar, and fancied it gooseberry-fool; contrived, however, to make a meal of it; the only one I have had for many days. I intended to take a ride, but the heat was greater than I had ever felt. At two P.M. the thermometer in the sun was at 141°. It fell one degree at a quarter-past three P.M. and did not sink below 138° till half-past five P.M. I was obliged to cover the stirrups and kummiyahs,[115] and all metal articles, with pieces of háïk: the stirrups were too hot to be handled. The horses and cattle are all suffering; yet there is a strong wind from the N.W., but it is blowing fire. Mohammed tells me that on the E. of the mountains, which shut out this wind, it is impossible to face the hot wind. All here are astonished at my being able to stand it; there is no fear of me; I am living too low to take any harm. My fear is not that my stomach will go, but my head. Still no post. All are in anxiety. A cold current of air is passing over us. At nine P.M. the moon and stars are shooting with a peculiar glare, such as I have often witnessed here after great heat. At ten P.M. the heat returned, and nearly suffocated us. I dread the night—being half destroyed by the vermin. Am very anxious for to-morrow.

Monday, July 18.—Therm. 86°. Rose early and went out. There was more wind than yesterday. It feels cooler, but promises to be a hot day. Conceiving I might be mistaken, while reading “Hints on various Sciences,” p. 166, I took three thermometers, and suspended one six feet from the ground, but exposed to the air and sun, at the distance of six feet from the wall, into which a pole had been driven, from which it hung perpendicularly. At twelve this had reached to 115° Fahrenheit. I then laid a second on a mat, exposed to the sun; and this rose to 138°. The third I placed erect on the box of the thermometer, which rested on the sand, and was propped up by a piece of[130] stick. This last rose to 126°. After they had been exposed about a quarter of an hour, the three gave the following results:—

		Hanging.	Standing.	Lying.	S [116]
At	One	119°	126°	143°
	Two	119	124	139	109°
	Three	121	131	139	110
	Five	120	121	126	107

At half-past five, the wind freshened again. During the whole of this period the wind was very strong from N.W. to N.N.W., and carried a cambric handkerchief, in which was placed a stone of one pound, at the rate of four knots an hour. The Arabs, who took the greatest interest in any thing that I was doing, wanted to know what I was about, and whether it had any reference to the country. As I always had a story ready to excite their wonder or a laugh, I told them that I expected a letter from England, and I was endeavouring to ascertain how fast the ship was sailing; that the little glasses were to tell me the heat of the sun, and the handkerchief the force of the wind; that if when the sun was so hot, the wind had a certain power; I knew how much greater would be the power of the wind, when the sun was less hot; and by the velocity of the wind, I could tell the rate of the ship’s sailing; the sun and the wind being enemies to each other. Upon this they cried out “Tayyabek Allah:” after this came the usual finale, by my taking some fire from the sun by the burning glass; and what astonished them more than any thing else, was that they could do it themselves as well as I could. At five P.M. I received my grape-pie from the Jewess; but it was a sad failure, as it was the third day in which I had gone without a dinner.[131] It is now evident the post has been stopped on purpose. I am in a nest of villains, and know not how to extricate myself. The heat continued of the most distressing kind: at midnight the thermometer was 100°.

Tuesday, July 19.—Therm. 95°. The heat is beyond endurance. No sleep. All are lying down and panting. The long-wished-for post has at last arrived: and this morning every thing was settled for our starting without fail on September 15. All travelling now is quite impossible, as the camels are dying on the route from the north, in consequence of the heat, which is greater than usual. Every body is suffering, and yet they say it is cool here, compared with the temperature on the south side of the mountains. I have nothing on, but what decency requires. The consumption of water is immense.

Wednesday, July 20.—Therm. 95°. The heat is terrific. No sleep, no rest. The stream that passes the Sheïkh’s garden was this morning at 75°. Mashaba (Majíbí) and his gang left us at three P.M. Went out a little this afternoon, as I felt poorly, and procured some eggs from the Arabs in the tents, but many of them were rotten. I have now had no food for a week. Would give a dollar for a draught of beer. Thirst distressing, and am pouring with perspiration. The walls of the house are cracking with the heat and the ground is distressing to the feet. Wrote to Mr. Willshire. The Damánís are preparing to start to-morrow.

Thursday, July 21.—Therm. 95°. This morning I exposed about a quart of water in a tea-kettle, on the roof of the house, to the action of the sun. The water was brought from a small rill that passes the Sheïkh’s garden, and was 75° when about fifty yards from the spring. At twelve the water in the kettle had risen to 112°; at three P.M. it was taken away to be used as hot water; this happened a few minutes before I got up to try its temperature. The heat decreased much towards the evening. Have been very poorly all day, and must have recourse to a blue pill at night.

Friday, July 22.—Therm. 82°, and has been lower. This sudden fall of 15° has been felt severely. At no period has the glass reached within[132] 15° of what it was yesterday. It has made me quite ill, and unable to go out to a fantasía in the afternoon. A káfilah is now preparing for Suweïrah.

Saturday, July 23.—Therm. 83°. There was a heavy mist early this morning. Thank God, the heat is lessened. The trees and fruit were parched up by the heat of the three last days. The cattle are dying in the roads, and the very slaves suffering. Feel very poorly; and have now starved for a week, and been obliged to go often to the medicine-chest. Had to send to the Jews for brandy to keep me up. I am expecting some fruit to-morrow, and hope to get a fowl also, and make some broth. Obliged to shut up books.

Sunday, July 24.—Therm. 85°. The weather fine and pleasant, and the house quiet. Read the prayers. Received a present of two fine quinces, called here ................ Their flavour is exceedingly fine; they came from Tamazert; those that are grown here are not near ripe; the others have a thin yellow rind, and their flavour is like that of ripe raspberries. Being far from well, I did not leave the house. Abú went to market, and bought some eggs, and dispatched Seulïmán to Tamazert to buy more, together with half-a-dozen of fowls; the latter being very dear here, about threepence each. I have agreed to purchase a cow in partnership with Seulïmán, whose child is sick, and wants more milk, &c., than he can get. I am to be supplied with fresh butter every day. The cost of the animal, which has just had a calf, is ten mitcals, about twenty-five shillings. This is a sore subject for the Sheïkh,[117] who has had a quarrel with his women, and they will not supply me. I really pity the man.

Monday, July 25.—Therm. 86°. Felt a little better; but as I was still poorly, kept to the house. No incident.

Tuesday, July 26.—Therm. 78°. Day cold and cloudy. There was a large arrival from Bamara. Felt very poorly to-day; these sudden[133] changes almost kill me. Got at last a fowl to-day, and ate a little. Complained strongly to the Sheïkh.

Wednesday, July 27.—Therm. 80°. Health improving. There was an addition to our party. Did not go out. House the best place. Had a new dish to-day; stewed quinces and meat: it was not bad, but I had no appetite.

Thursday, July 28.—Therm. 78°. Not so well to-day; kept to the house. In the evening a party from Taghakánth brought intelligence of the war still raging.

Friday, July 29.—Therm. 77°. Day fine; went out a little: am much better, thank God.

Saturday, July 30.—Therm. 75°. The night has been cool, and very pleasant. Went out a little this morning: towards the middle of the day the heat returned with great power. A simúm is blowing in the desert; we are all covered with dust, and the houses are perfectly obscured. I tried the water again to-day: a quart was exposed from one to three P.M. in a tea-pot, on the top of the house; it rose to 112°; at four P.M. it had reached 125°, when it came into service, being half-boiled, to fill up the tea-kettle. We are to have three or four oppressive days again. Spirits very low. Took a half pint of the Jews’ brandy, having a very cholera-feel.

Sunday, July 31.—Therm. 80°. Passed a very bad night. Walked out a little. Read the prayers, and mean to fast to-day. In the afternoon we felt the simúm again, and the night was oppressive in the extreme.

Monday, Aug. 1.—Therm. 86°. The whole horizon buried in a cloud of dust. The mountains to the S. and S.E. were not visible; the cattle exhibit a disinclination to go to their pastures. We are to have a sweltering day, by all appearance. We are looking out for the post, which, we suppose, was stopt yesterday by the excessive heat, and will not now reach us before to-morrow. Felt very poorly this evening.

Wednesday, Aug. 3.—Therm. 75°. Much cooler. There is a strong[134] breeze, but the dust still comes from the desert. For the three last nights we have been annoyed with the jackalls, who have been driven in from the Sahrá. Felt a little better to-day, and went out for an hour. No appetite. This confinement is very sad. Received large presents of unripe fruit. These people will leave nothing to ripen; they are perfect hogs. A host of jackalls have made their appearance. Gave Abú a lesson in medicine; made him number the bottles in the chest, for fear of being too ill to go to it myself, and he should poison me. We have some misgivings about the post, which is three days behind its time. Persons have been dispatched to look after the postman.

Thursday, Aug. 4.—Therm. 76°. A high wind, with dust, which nearly blinded us all. Feel rather better to-day. Still no post, and all in anxiety.

Friday, Aug. 5.—Therm. 76°. Weather much pleasanter. The night cool, and not so many vermin. Received a fine present of grapes. This evening the post came in, but brought no letters. The Sheïkh is in a great rage about a letter, which that rascal, Majíbí, has written; who now that he has been blown upon, is trying to make mischief. Affairs are rather ticklish. I have a hard game to play to keep all matters right. There is some unpleasant talk about the length of my stay, and some not very pleasing hints to the Sheïkh about his treatment of me. I have tried to put every thing in a correct light.

Saturday, Aug. 6.—Therm. 78°. Fine day. Feel somewhat better. There has been another fight between the Jews about my food and washing. I fear the Sheïkh leans to the scoundrel, whose wife is more free-looking than Fehedia, whom he cannot seduce: the case is to be heard to-morrow.

Sunday, Aug. 7.—Therm. 76°. Early this morning Sídí Mohammed El Fakír arrived from Suweïrah, bringing me a letter, together with tea, sugar, and coffee, from Mr. Willshire, and a present of fruit from himself. By the letter I learnt that the Sheïkh had written to Mr. Willshire for the money for the journey, which the Sheïkh said he had paid the Damánís. I do not, nor does Mr. Willshire, like this paying[135] before hand. Had a large party at breakfast; there was one Múléï ’Alí, and some hogs of Berbers. Read the prayers, and prepared to catch the Sheïkh. He promises to give me an acknowledgment, that I shall have nothing to pay on my arrival at Tumbuktú, and that all shall be right. There are no signs of my tent coming back. Sídí Mohammed, who is anxious that I should not go on, brought his son, the only really learned man here, who is to write privately to Mr. Willshire, should any thing happen to me. I am more than ever pleased with the Fakír, and feel great satisfaction in having a person who can communicate, if necessary, with Suweïrah, unknown to the Sheïkh. I am not over easy that all is quite safe: these are a thankless people, and are now very angry that I have complained so much of the bad treatment I have experienced. I shall make friends with this young man, and try what can be done through him, in case of need. Feel much better to-day.

Monday, Aug. 8.—Therm. 78°. The house is full of visitors again, and my pest, the Sheïkh Hammó, has returned. Abú was puzzled to-day in some questions about Hájí Majíbí. Gave him a lesson to-night; but he is a very dull scholar: he has no idea of position,[118] nor can I make him understand the drawing of the ka’bah. Some mischief is at work from that rascal, Majíbí, who has gone back to Suweïrah. I will catch him yet. Feel better to-day, and am beginning to be myself again.

Tuesday, Aug. 9.—Therm. 78°. Up early, and out to breakfast. The post arrived with letters from Mr. Willshire, who says that he has sent half the money for the journey; but that no pesetas were to be procured, and therefore the remaining half would be sent by Hájí ’Abíb, whom Mr. W. insists upon coming here to see me off—an event which now seems doubtful. I do not like this payment of all the money before hand, as I may be left on the road, although I have great faith in the Damánís. I had some high words with the Sheïkh. His people owe Mr. Willshire five thousand dollars, and would not take a credit[136] for the one thousand. My good opinion of the Sheïkh all oozing away. He is a beastly miser. Wrote to Mr. W. Felt done up again by this business.

Wednesday, Aug. 10.—Therm. 66°. The night was so cold, that I had to get up, and put on some clothes; and this morning the glass shews a fall of 10°. Felt this change very sensibly, and the more so as I have been out of temper since yesterday’s row with the Sheïkh. As there were symptoms of heat, I tried the thermometer, and found that it stood

I feel rather uneasy about the arrangements. Heard of a party going to Tumbuktú in ten days. I have been told not to pay all the money before hand. Am determined to speak again to the Sheïkh, even if I am to give up the thing. All parties here are agreed as to my having been ill treated. I fear this man is now bent on plunder. I mean to dispatch a courier privately to Mr. Willshire to-morrow. I cannot allow myself to be robbed with impunity. My treatment is now as bad as ever, and if the money be once paid, I shall never get on.

Thursday, Aug. 11.—Therm. 70°. It begins to feel very cold. All the people have taken to their Sulhams. A man was shot through the ankle, and they came to me for some camphor, their sovereign remedy. I told them that all mine was gone, and desired them to go to Mes’úd. This strange fellow was born a Jew, and is now a Muselmán. He is much looked up to. He too said that all his camphor was gone; but was sure that I had some; for he had seen a great many Jinns [119] about at this place, and one or two big ones at Agader, where I go sometimes, and he was sure that they came for my camphor; that they stole a great deal of his, and were very fond of it, and would come a long way to get it. Finding, however, the applicant, who was the father of the boy,[137] to be greatly distressed for the want of the camphor, I give him a little and some plasters. Mes’úd told him how to tie it up, and Abú had to write a charm to keep away the Jinns, and prevent them attacking the boy on the road, which Mes’úd said they would be sure to do unless he took the spell with him. Abú wrote two extra charms for the Táleb, on the condition that he would shew me his book of magic to-morrow.

Friday, Aug. 12.—Therm. 70°. Had a great row with the Sheïkh, who has over-shot the mark; I fear we shall quarrel yet, and the thing fail entirely. Got the book on magic, but had to pay a mithkál for looking at it.

Saturday, Aug. 13.—Therm. 70°. Weather cloudy and wind cold. Towards noon, I had a great row with Sídí Salám, and threatened to leave the house; I have frightened them a little, but made myself ill again.

Sunday, Aug. 14.—Therm. 63°. It feels quite cold; I have taken to clothe again. The people are preparing to go to the Múlíd at Muwah, which takes place on Wednesday. Read the prayers. A sand wind from the desert, which nearly blinded us: at five P.M. the glare was so vivid as to distress the eyes; one could see the doors of the houses, and the faces of all the people in the Sók. It had also the effect of the mirage in giving a gigantic appearance to all persons; we could distinguish even the tracks on the mountains, which were some miles distant: it lasted above an hour. A Jew lad, who has been in the habit of bringing me food, came with his schoolmaster, the Rabbi, to take leave; he can repeat the whole of the Pentateuch, although he is unable to read a letter: his schoolmaster told me he had been teaching him to be a tradesman, not a scholar. The lad got a dollar from me to pay his expenses on the road. The Sheïkh is not yet returned.

Monday, Aug. 15.—Therm. 72°. Wind strong. A large káfilah is starting for Suweïrah. The Sheïkh is to come back this evening. I am sick at heart. Fasted to-day, partly out of spite to these people, and partly by way of medicine.

[138]Tuesday, Aug. 16.—Therm. 72°. This was rather an interesting morning. The Arabs who are about to return to the Sahrá, came for the Mazkát Allah. This is a kind of tithe given of the barley, only to those people whose land will not produce any, and whose occupation as guides to the káfilahs prevent them from tilling the ground. It is not however the unjust tithe on the industry and capital of the English farmer; but is a tenth of the actual increase—in the scriptural meaning. The seed-corn is deducted, together with the quantity requisite for the wages of the labourers, and the cost of tillage, and gathering the produce; of which one tenth of the actual increase is given. There was a great variety of character (deportment), and a blessing was given to, and by each person as he came for and went away with his share. In this manner they obtain corn enough for nearly all their wants. A few presents were brought for the Sheïkh, who I could see, gave grudgingly, and in return asked very anxiously, if they wanted to buy any thing. I had a great row with Sheïkh Hammód, and nearly came to blows. This fellow is the greatest hog I have ever seen. I am very anxious to hear again from Suweïrah; had Kádí ’Alí been here, I would have left the house this morning. To-day was the ceremony of swearing faith to the Sheïkh, and of protection to the káfilahs to and from Wad Nún. Portions of the Koran were read; the Ahdah [120] taken, and faith pledged, accompanied by the ceremony of stepping over a stone. I have frightened the Sheïkh, and I hope to some purpose: but matters are hard to arrange.

Wednesday, Aug. 17.—Therm. 74. These Arabs of the Sahrá are certainly the men in Belzoni’s tomb, with their curls standing out, and dresses close to their necks, and feathers in their heads; none of them ever wear turbans. Some have a string of pearls (islik); some a cord; but the generality are content with their thick woolly curls, that make the head look like a mop, or the hair upon a poodle dog. They are a slim race, but very hardy and courageous. Two large wolves were killed this morning. We are looking out for the post. The wind is[139] high, but with the haze over the mountains, the fore-runner of a return of the heat. At eleven A.M. it blew a perfect hurricane. The Simúm [121] felt like the blast of a furnace. The thermometer rose suddenly from eighty-five degrees to ninety-five degrees. The heat was terribly oppressive; we all felt it, and the people were lying about and panting, and all work was suspended. This lasted till one P.M. and has so heated the air, that there is no moving. The Sheïkh says there will be two or three such days: that we are lucky in not having started; but that the weather will then become settled. This is the approach of their second summer. I have this day had a proper explanation. The Jew has been sent for, and ordered to purchase every thing requisite on pain of banishment, and to bring in a weekly bill of my expenses. The poor fellow at first thought I had been making a complaint; but has gone away quite satisfied. There are symptoms, I am sorry to see, of further detention. At half-past two P.M. the hurricane returned; when the whole air was loaded with dust that made the sun look red. The thermometer, was, in the sun, one hundred and twenty-one degrees, and at three P.M. one hundred and twenty-six degrees; in the shade, one hundred degrees and one hundred and one degrees respectively; with a very trying wind, E.S.E. This has been a thirty-drink day. The heat at night was excessive. I am to go to the Jew’s to-morrow with[140] the Sheïkh. A great change has taken place: I have frightened these people in right earnest, and I am determined to keep the vantage ground.

Thursday, Aug. 18.—Therm. 86°. Very hot outside the door. Went to the Millah with the Sheïkh to breakfast, at the chief Jew’s, Soleïmán. Every thing was very good, indeed, of a rather superior kind: but what a place to live in! We went on foot, the Sheïkh carrying a loaded pistol in one hand, and with the other on his kummiyah.[122] After eating for two hours, the Muselmán party went home to sleep. I remained with the sons and daughters of Israel, who had come to the Millah, which is seldom honoured by a visit from the Sheïkh, and still less frequently to eat there. The Jew’s wife is one of the most beautiful creatures I have ever seen: she is much respected, and possesses some property of her own. The Rabbi, at my request, read the first five chapters of Genesis, and then a portion of Exodus. I hoped to find some other books; but there were only Sepher Kodesh.[123] Returned home, and found a great change for the better in the establishment. The heat was excessive: the thermometer at 101° in the colonnade. The moon looked pale and sickly. At midnight the thermometer stood at 101°: every body was fainting from the oppressiveness of the heat.

Friday, Aug. 19.—Therm. 89°. The heat suffocating: went out a little to accustom myself to it. At two P.M. the thermometer was at 110° in the shade. This is the second summer here: it lasts for twenty or thirty days. All nature parched up. Kept to the house the greater part of the day.

Saturday, Aug. 20.—Therm. 90°. There has been a difference of twenty degrees between to-day and last Saturday, and of twenty-four degrees between the 10th and 20th of this month. I am regularly steaming. Am going to the Jew’s again: it is their Sabbath feast. Their olla podrida does not agree with me very well. It is put into the oven on Friday just before sunset, and remains till it is wanted, stewing from twelve to twenty hours in a river of oil. The day was, however, a change from my imprisonment. The Rabbi read a part of[141] Genesis. Walked to the Millah, the heat excessive; returned home, and had some pleasant talk with the Sheïkh: was right glad to get away from the smell of the Jews, and from nose-blowing, &c.

Sunday, Aug. 21.—Therm. 88°. Day fine. The hot wind has ceased. Read the prayers, and passed all day in the house with the Greek Testament.

Monday, Aug. 22.—Therm. 76°. A great fall in the glass. Felt very cold in the night; morning cloudy, with appearance of rain in the west. Mohammed Serren brought one of his sahabi [124] for me to prescribe something for him; the poor fellow was very ill, and came with lots of commissions from others; but not being able to explain himself very well, he mounted his horse, and went to some tents in the neighbourhood, and brought me a louse, telling me that the chief of the tribe, a great friend of his, had them all over his body; and that as his skin bred them, he wished to know how he was to get rid of them. He then detailed his own domestic disease. He had the prettiest woman in the tribe for his wife; but she did not like him. He therefore wanted me to give him a charm to compel her to love him. Hearing a rattling of chains below, I went out to inquire the cause of it, and asked if they were intended for an elephant; but received for answer, that they were for the poor devils who had stolen the Sheïkh’s horse: they are to be chained up for God knows how long. The Arab returned for his medicines; and when I was about to give him some directions about his diet, he said it was of no use, for they had but two kinds of food, milk and ’eïsh (barley-bread). There has been a great commotion amongst the Jews. Poor Eïsh Ben Músa came crying to me, having heard that the Sheïkh had made me promise to go and eat at Suleïmán’s, who is a great rascal, and whom I dislike. The beast came, and wanted to explain away his rascality. I find I cannot go there, but fighting follows.

Tuesday, Aug. 23.—Therm. 84°. Walked out. An arrival from the desert here from Suweïrah, but with no news either way. The Jews[142] are boring me to death. Do not feel very well. Towards night it turned cold.

Wednesday, Aug. 24.—Therm. 72°. Had some talk with the Sheïkh. It appears that all will be ready in about ten days. The place was alarmed this morning by a heavy firing heard in the direction of Eït Bamárah, and it was known how the people of As-sírer had gone out to punish some Harámís [125] in that direction. We went out, but could see nothing: the news was brought by a horse, whose rider is supposed to have been shot. The animal, it was known, would, if he were started, make as hard as he could to the Sheïkh’s stable. All mounted, and were off to the scene of action; it proved, however, a false alarm; no great mischief done; the place in an uproar. All the parties who started after P.M. are now returning. Weather much cooler.

Thursday, Aug. 25.—Therm. 78°. Day beautiful. The post is arrived at last. More money is asked by the Sheïkh, who now refuses to give me a letter of credit. I fear I am in the hands of a rascal. I have had a bit of a row with him, and have threatened to go back.

Friday, Aug. 26.—Therm. 68°. There has been a fall of ten degrees. This morning the son of Mohammed ’Abád arrived, bringing news that his father will be here in a day or two. This looks like a beginning; although he admits that they will not start for fifteen days of their month equal to eleven of ours. The place is crowded with persons, who have come from the south, who had heard of an attack intended to be made on the town. Am quite sick of my Jew visitors, who, under the pretence of bringing me food, stop here half the day. Hámed tells me to get every thing ready; for as soon as his father arrives, we are to start.

Saturday, Aug. 27.—Therm. 70°. Hámed has let out much of the Sheïkh’s rascality. There is a conference taking place about a war with Bamárah: this is a very anxious time for me. Had my dinner at the Millah, and afterwards went to the synagogue.

Sunday, Aug. 28.—Therm. 70°. The cold was so great last night,[143] that I was forced to have recourse to my háïk. Read the prayers, and kept my room all the day.

Monday, Aug. 29.—Therm. 70°. A party, with about sixty camels, started this morning to wait for me on the confines of the desert. Kept up a long conversation, to the great amusement of the people. There has been a large arrival of Shilhahs, who have again put off our excursion. Cold to-night.

Tuesday, Aug. 30.—Therm. 70°. Some little rain has fallen during the night. The place is swarming with people, partly owing to the war, and partly to the Sók at Hámed Omonsa. A flock of the same kind of green, brown, and red birds, with long beaks, and a shrill note, that are so common on the coast of Arabia Felix, made their appearance here. Wrote to Mr. Wilkinson.

Wednesday, Aug. 31.—Therm. 68°. Went off to the sea, accompanied by the Sheïkh and eleven persons, including two slaves. We travelled very slowly the first hour W. by N., and then three miles due N. In about half an hour arrived at one of the Sheïkh’s houses, having passed the ruins of a town with tombs: then turning S., rode till twelve, when we came to about fifty tents, which were so low, that they were covered by the bushes, nor did I see them till the dogs were on us. The whole plain through which we had ridden, is capable of cultivation. We found in it large flocks of sheep and goats, and herds of camels. At half-past twelve, turned W.S.W., and then S.W., and rode till four P.M., when we came to a large and powerful spring of salt and bitter water. Here the Sheïkh divided three loaves among the party, and being thirsty, we took a little draught. The sea was distant about one mile, but not visible, as it lay just under Cape Nún. We had crossed the Búkukmán, which was dry, and the Sayyad, which had but little water, and the As-saká, whose water was little and bad: these three, after their junction, form a fine body of water that falls into the sea. We now turned due S., and crossed a chain of hills, and started several herds of gazelles, and came, at seven P.M., to a large encampment on a fine plain. Poor Abú was knocked up, and was near[144] falling twice from his horse. After the tent was pitched, all went to prayers. At nine, the Sheïkh of this, and an adjoining encampment, came to make their feast on the heart, liver, and entrails of the sheep, thrown upon hot charcoal, and then taken off, and wrapped up in the caul and the mesenteric gland, roasted on ramrods, and then handed round; the Sheïkh pushing each piece at the end of the ramrod. At midnight the whole body was brought, and made into kuskusú. I did not eat any thing, but had merely some camel’s milk for drink, and then went to sleep.

Thursday, Sept. 1.—Therm. 64°. Cloudy, and with a mist equal to rain. Up at five A.M. to prayers; then came kuskusú. I got a part of one of my loaves: the people of all the tents came to pay their respects, and brought with them lots of vermin. I was greatly annoyed; they are sad savages. The appearance of the place last night was very grand; there were fifty large fires burning, throwing their light upon immense herds of cattle, and on the savage countenances of men and women. Abú was very ill, but would eat. We did not start till one P.M., as the Sheïkh had some business to transact. We kept along the valley S.S.W. for an hour, and then turning N.W., crossed a chain of mountains, called Abú-l’Asel, from the quantity of honey they produced, the bees hiving in the Euphorbium plant. At six P.M. we arrived at the large encampment of El Báshá. There are here above one hundred tents, one thousand camels, with sheep, and goats out of number: there are also regular workmen, &c. here, and the encampment has the look of a town. Supper came, as last night, when I took my milk, but ate nothing: then came the story-teller, who gave a genealogical history of the Arabs from the time of Abraham, and of the patriarchs from Noah; then of the Koreïsh; and, lastly, of the Tagakánths, who are certainly the men alluded to in Belzoni’s tomb; they have passed by several names, that of Ansár is the one they held the longest; the story-teller finished with some verses complimentary to the Sheïkh and the Christian. He improvised with great fluency.

Friday, Sept. 2.—Therm. 70°. We had thunder and rain during the[145] night. This place is called El Fyeshabd (............). At seven A.M. we saddled our horses to send them to water; they had none to drink, except from salt springs, for this the third day: the people, however, were unwilling to let them go, and they have therefore sent for water, although not a drop is to be obtained within some miles. While the others were feasting on their kuskusú, I took my milk. There then ensued a long argument about the antiquity of the Ergebat and Tagakánth genealogies, &c. To prevent a quarrel, the bard recited a poem. The people here are undoubtedly a happy race. With a firm conviction in the truth of their religion, and feeling none of the artificial wants of civilized life, they are satisfied with what nature produces, and bear the inconveniences to which they are exposed with resignation. I amused them with some matches, percussion-caps, &c. They then went to prayers, and heard a sermon. The day was hazy and cold towards the evening. We started at six P.M., and rode an hour and half W. to another encampment; but there was no milk for me, although the same kind of feast for others, which I cannot touch; while the water was worse than would be Harrogate and sea-water mixed together. Of course I could not swallow a mouthful.

Saturday, Sept. 3.—Very cold during the night. Thermometer in tent was 70° at eight A.M. We did not get off till nine A.M. Impossible to keep to the road, as we had to turn every five minutes to visit different encampments. At half-past ten we saw the sea. Turned W. by N. and rode for an hour up the dry bed of a river, of which the people do not even know the name; it is, however, said to have water in it near the sea. We came to three large wells, where there were many flocks watering; they were very salt; but luckily I got some milk for myself. Rode S.S.W. for three hours without the Sheïkh seeming to know where he was going. We took up our position for the night at two wretched tents. There was the usual supper; but I could eat nothing, and was compelled to have recourse to tea, with salt water and dry bread. Hope we are going to turn back, as I find it hard work to travel[146] without food. Passed an high sand-hill, and saw many snakes and covies of birds. I have now learnt that we are to be out ten days.

Sunday, Sept. 4.—Therm. 72°. This threatens to be a very hot day. Up at five A.M. but did not start till ten, as people were constantly coming to the Sheïkh. Our course was S.S.W. and then W. At half-past twelve we started a very large boar, who gave us a good chase for an hour, when we killed him. His tusks were four inches and a half long, and the upper one six inches in curl; he took four balls to bring him down. We killed likewise a couple of snakes. At half-past two we reached Frou el Wád Draha: this river, and not Akessa, should have been in the map: it has but little water. The tide runs high up; the bed is very salt: this is the place where the Sheïkh wants to have a port, but it is too exposed, the surf great, and the water shallow. We encamped at some tents close by the sea, where I bathed. Begin to feel the want of food. The water was very bad and I could get no milk. Some fishermen had gone out in the morning; we waited for the return of their boat, when I got a fish; the first morsel of food I have had. Could find, however, nothing to drink but salt water. During the day a quarrel arose about killing the boar. The tents were wretched.

Monday, Sept. 5.—Therm. 65°. Cold. Up at five to prayers. Got a draught of milk, and a piece of bread, which is now becoming hard; then went off to the sea, and bathed, and took soundings. Waited two hours on the beach for the Sheïkh and his people, whom I met on the road, when I was returning. Arrived at home, I dried my clothes, which I had washed. Had a visit from all the ladies of the place; they had buttons, beads and needles. I was much distressed at their not having any milk or food that I could eat. It was amusing to witness the pleasure these people feel in having a talk with a Christian. Went down to the sea and saw the boat nearly swamped. My mule got away, and it cost us two hours’ hard work to catch her. The coast to the north all bluff and rocky, to the south sand-hills, and shallow water. After being half-starved, got at length some milk at midnight.

[147]Tuesday, Sept. 6.—Therm. 60°. Had a row with the Sheïkh. Some of the people had stolen my horse’s corn. A cool wind from the N.E. Abú upset the milk I had saved for breakfast. We started at half-past nine, and rode fast for fourteen miles E.N.E., and then due N. Crossed several sand-hills, and saw many gazelles, boars and serpents. At five P.M. came to a small spring of fresh water. My horse has been three days without any, and has had only salt water since the day before he left Wad Nún. We came almost to blows to get a mouthful for him; I was obliged to go without any myself; for as the quantity is so small, it is the law to keep it for human beings alone. We halted for an hour, and then turning a little west, crossed a high range, and came again to El Bushra, where I got a belly-full of milk and of bread which was now mouldy.

Wednesday, Sept. 7.—Therm. 60°. It was arranged for us to return home this evening; but a dispute arose about a spring, and some salt-beds, and the question of war with the Tagakánths and Ergebats detained us the whole day. This conference was one of the most interesting scenes I ever witnessed. Upon one of the poles of the tent were suspended the guns, on the other the sword and cuneas; the Sheïkh stood in the centre, myself at his right hand, and the Kadí on his left; the charges and questions, the animated pleadings, the powerful appeals, &c. together with the noise of those siding with each party, all presented a striking picture. There was some difficulty in settling matters; but all differences were eventually brought to a close by a feast, when I got my milk and laid down.

Thursday, Sept. 8.—Therm. 62°. Off at half-past six. Rode very fast till half-past one, when we halted at the Sheïkh’s garden. We had crossed the Assaka, and came to the Syod, which is here only a ditch. We then lighted a fire, and got some good tea made with fresh water; there was plenty of figs to give a relish to the remainder of the musty bread. I had now travelled hard for ten days, and had eaten nothing but a small piece of fish, dry bread and camel’s milk. I perfectly astonished these people, ............... but was much benefitted and pleased by the trip. Got home at six P.M. when I had coffee and a wash.

[148]Here ends Mr. Davidson’s Journal, from which the notes have been extracted; and the three following letters, addressed to Mr. Willshire, will tell all that his friends have to communicate up to the period of his lamented decease.

“Wad Nún, October 7th 1836.

“Being still in this horrible place, and with little chance of getting away, I should not have written this to-day, had I not been anxious to take advantage of any opportunity of giving you a piece of information which will astonish you. The Tagakánths, notwithstanding all that the Sheïkh ’Abíb and Hámed promised, have not arrived here. Another express has been sent to them; but even after their arrival there is to be a stop: should this prove to be the case, I will give up the project, content to lose all the money I have paid. In twelve days from this, I shall have completed six calendar months here, and during a great part of the time I have been treated worse than a dog. I have told Hámed, and as soon as I can get the Sheïkh and ’Abíb together, I shall tell them likewise, that if I do not start by to-morrow week, I shall insist upon their returning the money they have had; at all events, that Hájí ’Abíb must give me the five hundred dollars he brought, and the camels which have been purchased with my funds; and I must make up my mind to be robbed of the rest. This I have often threatened to do; but now I will act up to my resolves, let what will happen. Zain came yesterday and told me he would wait no longer; that he had engaged some sixty of the Ben Alí tribe, who take twenty-seven men mounted on horses as a flying guard, and who are determined to fight their way through, if necessary; he says he can send me on with the greatest confidence; that unless he was certain of accomplishing the object, he would not risk his brother’s property; but that I must go at once. I shewed him every thing packed up, ready to start at a moment’s notice, and that I was only waiting for some bread that I expected. He asked me how I was situated? I told him of every thing, and that one hundred and ten dollars,[149] including the present premium on the pesettas, had been paid to the Sheïkh for the Tagakánths. He lifted up his hands and said, it ought not to have been more than half that sum. Besides I have brought him, said I, a present amounting to one hundred and eighty dollars, and that he has asked for guns, which will cost him from six to seven hundred dollars more. Moreover, I have promised, if I am satisfied with his conduct, to send him pistols, powder, &c.; that I had left the money in your hands. He got up, and said, it was too bad; but as I had paid the money, it was no use to say anything more; it was gone without the chance of recovery. He thinks, and so do I, that the Sheïkh and his party will give themselves no further trouble about the matter. Zain and his friends are the people, who, as I told you some time since, offered to carry me to Tumbuktú for five hundred dollars, and not to receive any money until they had delivered me there in safety. The third and principal matter I have to communicate is, that Sídí Alí Ben Ilft is gone to join the caravan going to Tumbuktú; he came here last night to tell me so. No sooner, however, was it known in the Sheïkh’s room that he was there, than they sent Hájí ’Abíb to bring him to them. At first he refused to go; but afterwards he went, and then came back and staid with me till late. He says that he will go through all Súdan with me, and even back to England, if I wish it. He begged me to visit him this morning, and I have just left him. He wants me not to hurry the káfilah; and from what I could collect from his conversation with Hámed, he is disposed to give a large sum to delay the káfilah one month longer, and a good sum to delay it twenty days. This he says, is to give him time to arrange his affairs, but I know too well it is to get further instructions from Fez. I have stated decidedly that I will not wait twenty days. This Sídí Alí would be of great use as a protector, but I want none. My mind is made up, I am sorry to say, to leave my bones in Súdán, and it is as firmly made up to make a severe example before I fall. I am determined, on the least treachery I see here or on the road, to fire first, and my pistols never miss. I feel that I am in bad hands here. Close and Moor-like as Sídí Alí is, I wormed out of him[150] that there was some fear lest I should divert a most lucrative trade into another channel. Sídí Alí will not believe that I have paid the sum I stated; so trifling is the hire of camels to Tumbuktú, that they leave it to chance, and even with the salt they are glad to obtain ten mithkáls, not of gold; but merely the ten ............ a camel-load for the salt, including cost and carriage; as it is the back carriage that pays. All here are in great commotion, since they have learnt about Sídí Alí, and they know not what to do. I am sorry for Hájí ’Abíb, who is really concerned about this bad treatment. He complains sadly of the food; and his servant, who has been four times to Tumbuktú, says the dogs there live better than the Sheïkh here. He cannot eat the food, and means to cook for himself. He is preparing a little meat for me, but I cannot buy a pot to put it into. I stated in my last that I was not going to put on any disguise. I have been so accustomed to the dirt and filth in which I have been living for some time past, that it has become quite natural to me. You, perhaps, know more about Khovut than any other person, and when I tell you I have been living in Khotu, sleeping on it for nearly three months, you can form a pretty good idea of my disguise. I never expect to become white again. My beard is very long, my hair is cut close to the head, leaving one long tuft over the left ear, my bare legs and arms are covered with the bites of vermin; my cheek bones are very prominent, and teeth very sharp from having little or nothing to do.

“I have told you a great deal about Sheïkh Berúk, but the finishing stroke was put to it this morning. I yesterday purchased two sheep, to prepare a little meat to serve me either to go or return. After cutting what meat I could off the bones, and putting this aside, one of the slaves was sent from the house to bring them away, there being enough for the dinner, and the small pieces were of no use to me. I asked the girl why she was taking them away? She replied, ‘the Sheïkh had sent her for them.’ This conduct was strongly contrasted with that of Sídí Alí, who sent for Abú, and told him that he had heard I was buying meat, but he would not allow it; there were plenty of people to[151] buy and cook meat for me, if necessary; and he would not have it said, that a stranger was buying his food while he was in their country.

“I am daily at the tents of the Tagakánths, and the ladies, not one, but several, have openly asked me to pass the night with them; an arrangement to which their husbands make not the least objection. The Sheïkh alone, who is no great favourite, is jealous of the little attention shewn to others. Hájí ’Abíb says, he does not know how to manage these people. He is too close-fisted for them.

“Hámed has just been here (Saturday P.M.). I asked him to sit down; he said he was ashamed, and would not sit in my room, till his father came or sent a letter, bidding him to bring me on.

“I wrote a hasty P. S. about the medicines for the Sultán. My friend, G. D———d, tells me that two such chests were never sent from any house: besides the medicines, ............ of silver, glass and copper, mortars of glass and slabs for pills and ointments, I ordered the best work on medicine, the latest on diseases of the eye, and the paper of anatomical figures made at Paris, which are taken to pieces by leaves, and through which the medical schools in Egypt and Persia are taught anatomy, as religious prejudices in those countries do not permit persons to make use of dead subjects for dissection. I likewise ordered several cases of bottles of Seidlitz and other powders for Sídí Ben Alí. All these I know have been sent, and I have paid for them: their non-arrival is owing probably to the want of proper directions to the Káïd of Tangier to forward them on: the matter should be really looked into for the national credit.

“Sunday.—Some observations have been made about my bones, and I was this morning told they were taken to make soup for the Sheïkh’s party in the garden, to which they all thought I should go; but I am too poorly to stir out. At length there is news from the tents, ordering all to be ready on Friday next to leave on Saturday or Sunday. I shall not believe it, till I am really on my camel. I have got no bread as yet.

“Wednesday Evening.—Your welcome letter, with the parcel, reached[152] this place yesterday evening: the messenger wanted to return this day; but I was totally unable to hold a pen yesterday, and can but ill manage writing to-day. Ever since Sunday I have been upon my carpet alarmingly ill. This it appears is the sickly season of Wád Nún: my first attack was ophthalmia. From this the disorder went to the throat, and I had what they call a falling of the palate, and to such an extent, that, after finding no relief from strong blisters and gargling, and fearing suffocation, I was about to cut a hole in my throat to admit of breathing; but Hájí ’Abíb, the Sheïkh, the Jews, &c. all begged me to try the remedy of the country; and for the last two days I have had a stick covered with tar poked down my throat, and have inhaled the fumes of boiled tar twice or thrice a-day. I am now wonderfully better, and am able to speak and swallow hot liquids, though I cannot the saliva. The quantity of this secretion has quite astonished me: there has been a continued discharge for hours together, and amounting during the night to above a quart. Hámed has been particularly attentive, and so have all; and all have been frightened not a little. To-day I have had some severe palpitations, for which, if they return, I shall bleed myself till I faint, and repeat this as often as nature will allow. I do, perhaps, wrong in writing, but I know your kindness and good feeling would make you more anxious, should you hear of my illness through any other channel.

“I am sorry I cannot answer your questions. Nobody knows when we are to go: Hámed says, it is not the Sheïkh’s fault; that the times are difficult. His father will be here to-morrow or the day after; and we shall start the next day. If he comes to-night, we shall be off to-morrow. I have sent Abú to see about some cakes from the Jews. The letters to England must have miscarried, as there were some private ones of mine that would certainly have been answered.

“I have been obliged to coin an answer to the Sheïkh, and telling him that it will be time enough to think of commercial intercourse, as soon as he should have performed his engagements with me, and for the execution of which he had been paid before hand. He begins to feel[153] alarmed, and is half ashamed of himself. I cannot write now what he has disclosed; but I shall be at him again before the messenger departs.

“Friday night.—I am much better, although I do not consider myself quite out of danger. I was obliged to make four incisions in the throat by the knife, before I could obtain relief. I will go to-morrow, if the people come, of which there appears but little chance. I would readily step into the grave to get away from this place; the thought of dying here, to be plundered by the Sheïkh and his crew of vagabonds, annoys me more than my bodily sufferings. Abú is quite useless: his fear makes him totally helpless; but this only serves to rouse me. Hájí Abíb’s servant, Fahir, has certainly saved me for the present. This strange fellow wants to leave his master, and come to me. I do not think this would be fair on my part; I shall, however, sound his master on the subject, who first made the offer for me to take him: but I believe the wretches here do not wish the boy to go back to Súdán, as he knows too many of their dirty tricks. One circumstance alone keeps up my spirits; all my predecessors started in good health and failed. Bruce, in whose career and my own are many singular coincidences, started in nearly the same shattered state of health, after a detention in Abyssinia of six months, as I do now, and yet he succeeded; and so, perhaps, may I; but my hopes are very faint.

“Saturday, four P.M.—I have this day spoken again to the Sheïkh; but he fights shy of every question. I shall, therefore, tell Abíb to-night, that I cannot stand this trifling any longer, and that on Monday I expect to have my money returned. It is all nonsense that I cannot get through Súdán before the rainy season commences, and it would be certain death in my state of health to think of braving them out. I have been shamefully used. The Sheïkh and Majíbí have played this game to suit their own views, without caring a straw for you or me: the former came snivelling about his expectation of a ship arriving, and that traders would be glad to come here. I told him that nobody believed in his power, and that the best proof of his weakness was his inability to send me on. I perceive that you have a great idea of his influence; but[154] a week’s residence here would convince you, that with the exception of his own immediate dependants, not a soul would go out of the way to serve him; he is a mean, low, avaricious, and crafty savage; an arrant coward, and one who grudges even the barley that is daily served out for brute and beast. There is often more disturbance about overfilling the measure, than would take place in England if the Bank had failed. You seem to think there is some danger in his taking offence: you need not fear on that head, as he knows that he would then have to give the money back again.

“Sunday, P.M.—I have told the Sheïkh, that as the 15th October is now past, my orders were to wait no longer; and that as the Taghakánths had not made their appearance, I expected he would either return the money, or send me on, or let me take my own steps for proceeding to Tumbuktú. I had just laid down, after having read the prayers, and while Abú was at the market, when I heard some high words outside of the door, and in came the Sheïkh, Abíb, and Hámed. The first was foaming with rage; the second blushing up to his turban; while Hámed was sinking to the ground, like one doomed to die. All were talking, and in my weak state it was too much for me: being, however, an old soldier in argument, and finding all the party in anger, I kept myself more than ordinary cool. As soon as I could get them to speak one at a time, I found that some reports from Suweïrah had reached this place, accusing the Sheïkh of having played the rogue, and of having kept half the money of the Taghakánths for himself; and that the scandal had even extended to Fez. The Sheïkh asked, in a threatening manner, if Hámed had told me so. Perceiving that the doom of the poor lad would be fixed, if I told the truth, I was obliged to deny it. Had I not done so, the Sheïkh, I am certain, would have killed the lad on the spot. The Sheïkh then broke out in no measured terms against all of us; and though he confessed I had good reason to complain, he swore he had not taken a single morznum for himself; and that he would not allow his character to be trifled with. He said tauntingly, that all he had of mine was a gun, a caftan, and three suílhams; and he[155] would give them back, and I might make out my bill for the other things, and he would pay for them. At this juncture Abú returned, and I requested him to tell the Sheïkh, that I was not a merchant, and knew nothing about bills; that if he found any difficulty in fulfilling his engagements, my bill was a very simple one; he had only to return the 1,000 dollars in pesetas, and the 350 paid to Hámed, and to send me back to the place from whence he brought me; that I did not care to go on, as it was plain he could not insure my safety. This quite cooled him; and he turned round to poor Hámed, and bade him get his horse; ride to the tents; bring his father and people, and let them answer me. The poor fellow was shipped off by Abíb, who now took up the subject, and stated that the Sheïkh’s character had been injured by a report, said to have come from you, that he has taken the Taghakánths’ money, and was now unwilling to send me on. Upon this there was lots of swearing, &c., and the Sheïkh became so warm, that he drank about a gallon of water, and left us, saying that, if the Taghakánths did not come in ten or fifteen days at farthest, he would take me back to Agadír. As soon as he was gone, I told Abíb that, from the size of the parcels given me to keep by Mohammed El Abd and Hámed Mulid, I did believe they had received one-half of the amount, and that you were to send the second half to me and not to the Sheïkh, and I would pay it over to the Taghakánths, or to him, if they stated they had received the whole sum. At this moment the Sheïkh returned, and muttered something about the Taghakánths owing him money, and that if he had paid himself, it was the same as paying it to them. This is probably what led Hámed to believe and say that the Sheïkh had paid only half, and had kept the remainder for himself. Hámed was now left alone with us. He said the Sheïkh would murder him, if he knew that it was he who had spread the report. He then left me to get his horse; but the order was countermanded, and he is now with me eating some bread, and watering it with his tears. Abíb says, he does not know what to do; but hopes that I will wait the fifteen days. Sídí Alí Ben Ilft told Abú in the market to-day, that if we get away in less[156] than a month, he would give me leave to cut off his head. There is certainly some by-play here. This Sídí Alí has been using every means to dissuade me, and there is no doubt that his going is connected with my movements. I am sorry I can give you no certain news about the Spanish slaves. The man left here nearly a month ago, and seemed very careless about the matter, when he found that he was not to have a present or money before starting. I am making Abú collect whatever information he can pick up. News has just been brought that the Taghakánths are moving their tents, as the Ergebats have threatened to fall upon the káfilah as soon as it starts, to wreak their vengeance for the last attack. I am happy to tell you I am much better; but this blow of the Simúm, with which, it appears, I have been struck, has been very serious. I have a low ague; but feel too much pain in the chest when I cough to venture upon quinine. Between ourselves I have reason to be glad of this delay. I have had a little cake made by the Jews, but very indifferent and dear; I hope I shall now get the bread.”

The next letter, which is the last that was written from Wád Nún, relates some of the circumstances to which allusion is made by Mr. Willshire, and which have been already printed in the Journal of the Geographical Society. It is dated

“Saturday, Nov. 5, 1836.

“My pen almost refuses to write Wád Nún. Your kind letter reached me this morning, and I can answer it in better spirits, because I am happy to say my health is improving fast; but I cannot say much about my confidence in the success of the enterprize. The start is to be on Monday; although I do not go on that day. Every thing is now packed up, and ready to be placed upon the camels, with which Abú starts at day-break on Monday. I am to be left here, as if I had sent him on; Mohammed El Abd remains behind. On Wednesday or Thursday, according to the distance made by the camels the first day, we start on horseback, accompanied by the Sheïkh Berúk, and about a half-dozen horsemen, and we are to make Yeist, if possible, in one day. There I leave the district of Wád Nún; and to that place is a three[157] days’ journey for loaded camels. I there leave my horse, and mount my camel, and we push on to the tents. It has been positively stated to the Sheïkh, that we are to stop only the night at the tents; but this is false: I have become so used to the language of the Taghakánths, that I understand more than they think; and I heard that we should be there two or three days at least, if not more. The journey is to be made in the shortest time possible. Berúk says thirty days; my conductor, however, adds five or six; to this, he says, that we shall go as a post, and form a party of only five, including Abú and myself.

“Mohammed El Abd came again at night, and there was again a sort of grumbling about the expense. I asked why I was to pay 230 mithkáls for a camel, when the usual hire for a káfilah was only from ten to twelve? This was a silencer. Instead of being the lions of the desert, they are only the jackals, and pay tribute to even a single Arab, who happens to cross them on the route. The Woobd Allah (Zeïn’s people) are the persons with whom I ought to have gone: they are still waiting here, and Zeïn has started this morning for Akka, to know the reason. I have at last got the account of the things I have purchased here, and which I have signed, requesting you to pay the amount to Abíb. It is fifty-one and a-half dollars, to which will be added the price of a thick haïk, if one can be procured.

“Night.—Mohammed El Abd has been here again, and I have read to him what I have written to you, and added, that all will now look to him, not only to protect me, but to send me on. He shewed me his letters to the two principal persons, and one of them is the great Marabout, whose word alone is enough to protect me. His letters state, that I am an Englishman; that the English have been always the friends of the Mussulman; that they are all their support; for they buy all the produce, and furnish all the things that are consumed in this country.

“Berúk is so proud of the very idea of a ship coming to his territory, that he has ordered Hájí Abíb to write to every body who can assist us in the least. He brings me new milk with his own hand; he is here ever and anon, and by keeping a jog upon his responsibility, all may[158] yet be well. I have quite frightened Mohammed El Abd, by telling him of our power to stop the trade, and to make him personally responsible, if I am detained even at Tumbuktú.

“Midnight.—My party remained here very late; I feel that after the dressing I gave my conductor this morning, I have got once more the upper hand of all the party, and will now keep it. To-day I have parted with all my hair, the last remains but one of Christian appearance, and taken up the Tisbeah. On Monday I shall have to do without an interpreter, and on Wednesday, it is now said, we are to put on the turban and start. You shall hear from the tents, if possible; but this is not a very easy matter, as there are four tribes at war on the route, and no man dares go singly: as much as eleven mithkáls have been refused to carry a letter; but I suppose that for his own sake, the Sheïkh will arrange this. Abú is quite well, but not in the highest spirits. Let me assure you once more how grateful I am for all the trouble and anxiety you have taken in this matter. May Heaven bless and reward you and yours, and may we meet again in good old England, and there over our honest glass talk over the difficulties we have conquered. I do not wish to boast too much; but I do feel that few men would have gone through even what I have suffered already, and God knows I have much before me yet: but a merciful Providence has hitherto preserved me through many and great dangers, and on this I firmly rely.”

At last, after a delay of nearly seven months, Mr. D. was fairly en route for the goal of his travels—Tumbuktú. But he had scarcely entered the desert, when he perished by the hand of the assassin. His last letter is the following, dated

“Yeist, Tuesday, November 15th, 1836.

“This is the fourth day since my arrival here, and as yet I am uncertain about getting on. Having a spare hour to myself, for all the town have gone out in the expectation of an attack, I take the opportunity of writing up my journal. We did not actually start on Monday, as I stated, but all was in readiness, and we began by moving our things on that[159] day. I had long predicted that there would be no rain, till I was allowed to depart; a prediction that turned out true to the letter. On Tuesday, scarcely had the remainder of the baggage been moved to the tents, and the horses saddled, when it rained in such torrents as to make it impossible to set out. It was, therefore, arranged for myself to start at midnight with the horse party, and for Abú to follow at break of day with the camels and baggage. The whole night was, however, passed in discussing what route we should take, and day had fairly dawned before all preparations were completed. We all started about seven A.M., but took different routes out of the town. I was accompanied by the Sheïkh Berúk and Hájí Abíb to the hill outside the town, where they took leave of me, and I was then committed to the care of the Sheïkh Mohammed El Abd, and Hámed Mulid. The superior conduct and character of these persons as compared with that of Berúk, his son and escort, was greatly in favour of the Taghakánths. But now let me give you a little pleasing information. At the eleventh hour nothing could exceed the attention and assurances of the Sheïkh and Hájí Abíb. The former in giving me into the hands of the Taghakánths, said, ‘He placed me in their hands as his own flesh and blood; if any thing happened to me, it would happen to him; I had done much for them. He counted upon making a name through me. I had waited long; and that now there was to be no delay, but to go on at once to the journey’s end, and that Mohammed El Abd was to return post haste with a letter, informing them of my safe arrival.’ I heard from his conversation here last night, that if he gets back to Wád Nún in three months, Berúk is to give him one hundred mithkáls of gold. Hájí Abíb wrote all the letters, and helped to pack up, and was much more nervous than I should be if I were going to the scaffold. I found that Abú had packed up my Suilham; but as it was said that I must have one, although I had three Haìks, Hájí Abíb took off his own, which he compelled me to accept. I told him I should write to you to get him another, which I pray you will have the goodness to do.

“I shall not say one word about our journey to Tinzerat, which were[160] two days of misery and annoyance, owing to my companions, who thank God, returned on Friday morning. I was then given in charge to Sheïkh Hammó, and a party of twenty horse came from Yeist to Tinzerat to bring us here. Sheïkh Berúk’s horse was sent back, and I was mounted on one of Hammó’s, with a long gun placed in my hand, and haíked up to the mouth. We were off at eight A.M. On the road we were joined by twelve more, making our party, including the Taghakánths and self thirty-six, who were whooping, firing and galloping, to frighten the Haràmis, the road being very dangerous. A beautiful ride of eight hours brought us in sight of this place. Hammó, with twenty horsemen, pushed into the town. On entering it accompanied by Sheïkh Bel Aide, and another person, he rode up towards myself and fired off his gun at my horse’s feet. The whole place was out under arms. I rode up between two files of men with their arms; and on entering the gate leading to his house, two men mounted, with their guns crossed, made their appearance. Here he halted, and called for powder, when a grand volley was fired, which was followed by the screams of the ladies on the house-tops; and then turning to me said, ‘Well, Christian, is this the proper way to receive and treat you?’ I was then taken to his house, where with his own hands he swept the court-yard and spread a carpet, and told me I was welcome, and bade me ask for whatever I wanted. Milk, and dates fresh from the trees, were then brought me, and all to my perfect satisfaction. Early on Saturday he came to say, that a camel was ready for me, if I wished to start. I found Zein here, who had been unable to get his people on, although they swore that nothing should stop them. They allege that the state of the roads is so bad, as all the tribes are at war; and though the different caravans are said to amount to near five hundred men and three thousand camels, they cannot get on. Zeïn left yesterday for Akka to bring his people here to accompany me, if possible, as it is now settled that I am not to go to the tents at all, but make direct for the Sahrá, and proceed to Tumbuktú without seeing even a tent or a single person. We have just finished a consultation, when it was determined to start on Thursday night. The[161] journey will be accomplished in a very short time, as the camels are to drink only six times. How we are to manage I know not, as we can carry but little of any thing, and from all appearances I fear there will be no káfilah this year. All are in great alarm. Mohammed El Abd has learned that people are on the look-out at the tents for my arrival, and it has been told them that I am coming for certain with the káfilah; which is accordingly to be delayed here for three or four days, so that we shall be a good week on the road before it is known that we have got off. I am happy to say that I have picked up amazingly, and have now no fears about my health. I should have liked your glass of wine, but it did not reach me. Hájí Abíb will bring back the horse and my gun, of which the latter is to be sent to England; but unless you can do it easily, not till you hear from me at Tumbuktú. Mohammed El Abd says he wants to go to Suweïrah, and shall carry my letter to you himself and say, there is the letter from Yel Yayha: the Taghakánths have kept their word; God grant that he may.

“Evening. The people have returned. One man was killed, and another shot through the arm on the road we passed on Friday.

“Wednesday, 16.—The answer from the Woobed Allah, which was expected this morning, has not arrived. Mohammed El Abd says, that if they do not come here as written for, he will start to-morrow night or Friday morning without them. They were intended to form an escort for the three first days. The attention and civilities of my host continue unabated. I suspect, however, that the Taghakánths live so poorly in their own quarters, that they are loath to leave any place where there is good food and no paying for it. By our present arrangements we shall save nearly six days, as the tents are not in the direct route. It is, however, impossible to get any certain answers or information to be depended upon. Changes take place every hour not only in places, but in persons; and the man, who at one time was as true as the sun, and to be trusted with any thing, is at another a thief and haràmi.”

“P.M.—The son of the Marabout Sheïkh has arrived with a party of horse, who are to escort us across the Wad Draha, and one day beyond.

[162]“You must, my kind friend, excuse me for again adverting to one of my former letters. But the great interest you have taken in the success of my enterprise, and the immense trouble you have had, demands every possible return on my part. I am still in the district of Wád Nún, where I can assure Sheïkh Berúk is scouted and laughed at by all. Every body thinks with me, that he is worth nothing: that he is speculating with the property of others; his whole tribe, excepting Hájí Abíb, are bad, low and disreputable. Do not let him overdraw too much, or you will be a loser. His life is not a good one, and as to his sons they are the greatest rips I ever saw. Every step we have taken from his cursed place, we have found the people improved, far more liberal and hospitable, and although they are rather savage, they exhibit a nobleness of character, of which there is not a particle in the family of Berúk. If I mistake not, Seyd Boazer will open your eyes as to this crew.

“Night.—All is at length settled, and we start to-morrow morning at the break of day. I believe the káfilah will be allowed to proceed, although one mithcal a head is to be paid, and we have fifty persons and one hundred camels. I am unable to tell you for certain the route we are to take, as it will depend upon circumstances. Only two persons beside Mohammed El Abd accompany us, so that after all the talk at Wád Nún, I shall go in my original party of five, including Abú and myself. I fear there is much suffering before us, as no preparation has been made for any kind of food by the Taghakánths. Berúk put up for us one canter of rice, and one of barley; but El Abd can eat about six pounds a day. There are no milk camels here; and as we do not go to the tents, I fear I shall be deprived of this luxury. It is said, however, that one has been sent for, and is to meet us, I hope in good time. I knew from the first my route was the most difficult and dangerous; but it has far exceeded my expectations.”

In a postscript Mr. D. adds—“All are in bustle and all in fear, but Abú and myself;” and yet in a letter dated Wád Nún, October 7th 1836, he says—“My mind is made up to the certainty that I shall leave my bones in Sudán.” Still with all these misgivings his zeal in the cause of science never abated one jot. “Before this reaches you,” he[163] says, “I shall be wending my way over Africa’s burning sands to a sort of fame, or the sad ‘bourne from which no traveller returns;’ if to the former, truly happy shall I be to renew your valued friendship; but if to the latter, think sometimes of the poor lost wanderer.”

The laurel of fame to which Mr. D. aspired, was he feared reserved for a more successful adventurer in the person of Monsr. Antoine D’Abbadie, who said in the rooms of the Royal Society, that he should give Mr. D. the go-by in Sudán, that he had been ten years preparing himself for the trip, and had come to London to get an English passport, as he intended to travel à l’Anglaise, for the French were in bad odour amongst the natives of Africa, in consequence of their forcible occupation of the country. “He was,” says Mr. D. “a good naturalist, and astronomer, and had ample means at his command, insomuch that he purposed, like Monsr. le Baron Taylor, to travel en Prince with his servants in hose and doublet, &c. But think you that I who wear the sword-belt of his Britannic Majesty’s Agent and Consul General, high and exalted in fame and dignity, will allow myself to be beaten by a Frenchman! If I do I’ll— No, I never swear. Abú shall make kuskasu of me first.” To the preceding specimen of the liveliness of Mr. D.’s mind, may be added the following. “Your Excellency’s writing and mine remind me of the old proverb—‘Tel Padron, tel Secretoire.’ I will, however, back yours to be the most difficult. This is as it should be. The disciple must not be above his master. You will say I write hard scratches. I know it—I have only steel pens.” So too when speaking of some extract of camomile sent from Gibraltar, he remarks that “the druggist ought to present it to the Society of Antiquarians, and accompany it with a paper to prove that it was some of the veritable remains of the medicine chest, that Noah carried with him into the Ark. Its antiquity would give a fair colour for the assertion.”

Mr. D., however, could at times act the philosopher as well as the punster. At the conclusion of the account of his trip to Wád Draha, he says,—“I am in better health than ever, and never was in better condition. The Sheïkh backs me to win. I worked harder[164] than any man, and never once touched meat; out-walked all, out-rode some, slept less than any, and never but once lost my temper. The people in this district are between the Moors and the Arabs, and the hardest to manage. I cannot tell half the pleasure and profit I have derived from this excursion. I have visited a large track of country, quite unknown to Europeans, and have seen much of Arab life; heard their discussions on politics, and the stories of their bards, who are wont to beguile away an hour or two of the night together, with a history of the migrations of the various tribes. I can now compare the Western Arab with his brother of the East. I have for some time made up my mind that happiness is ideal; that to too many of us it is ‘the gay to-morrow of the mind, which never comes.’ If any people, however, can be justly called happy, the Arabs on the borders of the Sahara are so. Confident in the power of their religion to gain them Paradise; creating for themselves no artificial wants, and perfectly satisfied with what nature provides for them, they calmly resign themselves to the will of Providence, and are strangers to all care. I am neither a missionary nor a cobler, and have nothing to do with the care of souls or soles; but I really feel that any attempt to alter the course of these people’s lives might be fairly met with the observation of the Satirist, who knew human nature so well.

In allusion to the few wants of the Arab Mr. D. says in a loose memorandum, “His camels not only carry his wives, children, and tent, but feed them; his cows enable him to sell two or three jars of butter, and his fowls a basket of eggs weekly; his sheep will give him twenty-five lambs annually beyond what he consumes; the wool from them gives him from four to six haicks and a carpet; his barley feeds his cattle while vegetation ceases, and some of it is sown to re-produce and make his kuskasu.”

[165]Various detached Notes at the end of Mr. Davidson’s Journal.[126]

The Mazzabibs’ dwelling between Tangier and Algiers at Wady Mezzal, are called Moaterzelites, i.e. dissenters. They refuse to pay reverence to the companions of the prophet. Their language is Berber. All the people in the desert are familiar with the art of making gunpowder; they collect the earth and mortar of ruined towns. From this they make a ley, which is boiled until it acquires consistency: with one pound of it are mixed four pounds of sulphur, and four pounds of charcoal made from the oleander-wood. These ingredients are kept together for three hours, and the powder is fit for use. In D’jebel Eesay they find a considerable quantity of lead.

In the Wady Souf, between Tibat and Ghadames, many meherries, i.e. swift dromedaries, are bred.

In Terjgiert, there is a people called Medjehrah, of Jewish extraction, who, to escape death, embraced Islamism. They have the peculiar Jewish features, and the Arabs say, their houses have the Jewish smell. They live in quarters set apart for themselves; but they do not intermarry: they are scribes and merchants, but are never raised to the office of káid or imaum: they do not observe Friday as the Sabbath. The great drink here is made from the date.

In both Rife and Suse, the Jews go armed: they are, however, the property of the Moors, who arm, and send them out as a sort of substitute, and by whom they are supported, and allowed a greater liberty than at Tangiers. In the mountains in the neighbourhood of Tangiers, the Jews act as guards to conduct the Moors. They have all a master, whose shoe they carry, which serves as a protection. They pay tribute, not in money, but in work, the Moors finding the former. The principal trade is in grain and oil: the masters are Berbers, all of whom[166] ride mules. Every douar has its sheïkh and káid, who are Moors, and possessing each a jurisdiction, but not the power of punishing in all cases. Their religious worship is the same as the other, but little cared about. In the whole valley there may be about five hundred. They have their sacred books, synagogue, and rabbi; and they make a pilgrimage to the tombs, distant two and three days’ journey. All the douars have large vineyards, and manufactories of haicks, carpets, &c. which are sent to Tangier. They do not speak Arabic, but Berber or Shelluh.

The Arabs evidently borrowed their letters and their power in pronunciation, and numerical value, from the Hebrews. But the arrangement of the two differs entirely. From the circumstance of the Shelluh or Berber having a greater affinity to the Hebrew than the Arabic, I am led to believe the Shelluh more ancient than the Arabic. The Berbers are the aborigines of Barbary: they extend over an immense space. They have a settlement at Wadan, another at Sausaceding (Susee-dan), and Yamina: they are to be found likewise in Houssa. I presume that Berbera on the eastern coast must contain the same people. During my visit there, I had an opportunity at getting at their language, of which there are several dialects, between the northern and southern range of the Atlas. That of Marocco and the north is very different from that of the Sahara and Súdán, which is very pure. There is, however, a greater difficulty in writing and reading the latter, where the diacritical points are often transposed or omitted.

The washing of the dead is performed thus: a large sheet is thrown over the body, a man then wraps his right arm and hand in a napkin, water is then poured on the sheet, through which it passes to the body; the right side is first washed, then the left, next the back, and then the front; sticks are laid under and over the body to prevent the earth from touching it.

Ablutions are performed with sand in the desert, and sometimes even in the house to save the trouble of fetching water. This sand bath has given rise to the saying, that “sand is useless where water is plentiful.”

[167]The Fash-hook which produces the Ammoniacum does not extend in any quantity beyond Agadeer, nor is there much below Suweïrrah, the Derjmuse, or Euphorbium occupying its place.

The urine taken from camels which are giving suck, and drunk warm, is used as a purgative, and to increase the appetite.

Of the serpents the Busk-ah (black serpent) is most dreaded; although the poison of the Ef-ah (the yellow spotted one) is the most active in operation. The former is, however, very irritable and quick in its movements. I saw one June 8th.

The Camelion (Tatta) is very common about Wad Nún, and is called the serpent’s enemy.

One of those strange animals between a bull and a female ass was seen at Wád Nún: it is called jemmel. There is likewise a breed between the bull and mare.

The falling sickness, and the being possessed by a spirit, are diseases not known at Wád Nún.

The Tigghi, a small fish, like the sand-eel is found in most of the rivers of Súdán. The effect produced by this on the system is very curious. Like the torpedo or gymnotus lumbricus it paralizes the whole body, and takes away the senses for nearly half-an-hour. It is about eight inches long, and is much dreaded by the people. The common mode of taking fish is to put into the water a quantity of the Yeghan Touno, a small tree about five feet high. This intoxicates the fish, and renders them blind, when they are easily caught.

There are great quantities of Crocodiles of a large size, and hosts of Alligators. The gall of the former is always taken out and burnt, as it is supposed to poison the water. The Kaaux has a smooth skin but is in other respects like the Crocodile. The Kooroom lives entirely on land, and is similar to the Guana. Hippopotami abound in the rivers of Kong, and are called Máleh or D’jero Máleh. Their flesh, which is eaten, is considered a delicacy: they come out of the water about four P.M., and are easily taken. Darquey, the animal between the bull and mare, is likewise eaten: it is large as a horse and is very fleet. There is an animal about the size of a large dray-horse,[168] red with white stripes and two horns turning back, called the Daramah, or Sukotelly: they go in large herds, and are very good eating. There are also elephants, called m’hoor-do, out of number. Of the Sinsi the meat is not eaten; it is hunted chiefly for its eggs. The Tange is somewhat of the same species, but much larger: others called Song are like small red heifers; but they never leave the banks of rivers. The hyenas, called Minna, are in great numbers. The Japp is like a small goat. There is a very beautiful species of Antelope, jet black, called Tuba. The Giraffe is seen frequently, but it does not come near the towns; they are, however, much sought after by the rich (Congo Yomee). Buffaloes, called Siggi, are found here together with musk-rats, &c. Of birds there are bustards, wild turkies, eagles and vultures. The kites will take the meat out of the people’s hands.

Please the high God, it will reach the hand of the great King, who now possesses high authority and high fame, exalted in person and rank:—the Sultán Hámed Libbú, the lord of the city Tumbuktú, renowned in Africa. May God continue his assistance, and comfort him. Amen.

[The following letter was addressed to Lieut. Holland, commanding H.M.S. Scorpion, which vessel was sent to carry dispatches and presents to Mr. Davidson: but owing to the very rough weather, and the state of the bar at the entrance of the river, they were unable to land on the coast near Wad Nún. It is inserted here, as it helps to shew the great interest felt in the geography of the country which Mr. Davidson was so anxious to explore.]

“Sir:

“Royal Geographical Society of London,
11th November 1837.

“I am directed by Sir John Barrow, as President of the Geographical[169] Society, to call your attention to our want of information relating to the lower part of Sús, in the empire of Marocco; especially with regard to the rivers Wad Nún, Wad Soleïman, or Asaka, Wad Mesah, &c.; as your visit to Wad Nún, in order to communicate with Mr. Davidson, may enable you to obtain some knowledge of them, I take the liberty of sending you the following questions and suggestions, which may be found useful in collecting geographical information:

“I have also the pleasure to enclose to you our latest map of Marocco, an account of Lieut. Arlett’s recent survey of that coast, and an extract from Mr. Davidson’s letter from Wad Nún—if you read over these papers, it will enable you the better to judge of what we want:

“1. In sailing down the coast of Marocco, should you be near enough to distinguish the various small towns on the coast, notice especially those between Cape Blanco (north) and Cape Cantín, as the ruined town of Walidíyah is said there to exist in about 33° or 33° 15′ N. lat.—describe the situation of the towns, and if there be any appearance of an opening to a bay three miles in diameter said to exist—the opening, if any, must be very small.

“2. Four miles southward of Cape Gír, the Wád Sús falls into the sea; from fifteen to twenty miles further south another stream flows to the sea; describe its appearance, and endeavour to obtain its name—Is it Wád Mésah?

“3. About twenty miles further south another stream falls into the sea; also describe its appearance, and endeavour to obtain its name.

“4. In lat. 29° S., a river, said to be called Wad-e-stá, falls into the Atlantic; describe its appearance, and ascertain its name.

“5. A few miles south of Cape Nún, a large river has its outlet; what is its name?—Is it Wad Nún, Wad Soleïman, Wad Asaka or Wad Akassa, or Wád el Aksá, or none of them?

“6. The same difficulty as to name, applies to the river about twenty-five miles south of the last-mentioned?

“7. Does any river, called Wád Dar’ah, fall into the sea? according to our maps it loses itself in the interior.

“8. The town of Wad Nún will probably be found at about forty[170] miles from the sea; should you ascend to it in your boats, pay great attention to the windings of the river, its breadth, height of banks, rate of current, and depth of water, especially on the bar.

“9. Determine, if possible, the lat. and long. of the place, its height above the sea; describe its position, estimate its population, &c.

“10. Does it stand on the banks of a river?—if so, what is its name—where does it flow from—is it said to be dry in the summer season—and is it at other times navigable for boats?

“11. Take the bearings, and estimate the distance of all mountain-peaks in sight from the town; and give the general direction of the range, or ranges, of Atlas seen from it.

“12. Ascertain how many days’ journey from Wad Nún (town) to Akkah, to Sók-Assah, to Talent, and to ’Agadír; and, if possible, obtain itineraries from natives.

“13. In sailing down the coast, note all the snowy peaks seen of the Atlas range, which must be in sight from Cape Cantín southward, and give their bearings. As from the latter Cape, till you reach the parallel of Mogadór, there is no object in keeping close in shore, it would be better to run down at such an offing as will enable you to see the distant peaks, which otherwise the high land of the coast may conceal.

“14. From a little experience among the Moors, I may venture to suggest that firmness, united with conciliatory manners, will soon make them your friends. A very trifling present of gunpowder, snuff or tea, but especially of the former, will obtain you all you want. It must be given with judgment, not too lavishly, nor before many persons. With respect to astronomical observations, if you persuade them that you are only regulating your watch, and at the same time offer to correct theirs, they will not interrupt you. Whether their watches keep time or not, is of no importance.

“15. By all means take with you a chronometer, an artificial horizon, a sextant or circle, a prismatic compass for taking bearings, and a mountain barometer, and direct that a register of the barometer, left on board, be kept while you are up the country.

“16. It will be very advisable to take with you your Assistant-Surgeon,[171] if he can be spared, as medical advice, and a little medicine go further with the Moors than any other knowledge—besides he may also have leisure to pay some attention to the natural history of the country; or at least to collect a few plants and some geological specimens: if you can also take with you a draughtsman it will be very desirable.

“17. In conclusion, all geographical information will be valuable; note it immediately in a journal as fully as possible; and be so good as to preserve your original notes and observations, and mark hear-say information with the name of the informant. I need hardly add it is absolutely necessary that you should have a good interpreter, who will probably be procured at Mogadór (or according to your instructions from the Admiralty); and you must be provided with a few trifling presents as beforementioned, gunpowder, snuff, tea, gaudily printed cotton handkerchiefs, which are valued in the order I have placed them.

“Begging you to excuse the freedom with which I have offered these suggestions, and heartily wishing you success,

“I have the honour to be, &c.

“To Lieut. Holland, H.M.S. Scorpion.”

“John Washington.”

“Sir:

“Royal Geographical Society of London,
26th October 1836.

“I have the pleasure to acknowledge the receipt of your letter, dated Wad Nún the 22d May; and am much more gratified to hear that you have arrived thus far without any serious accident, and sincerely hope it may be an earnest of future success. As an opportunity offers of sending you a letter direct, and as it may possibly still find you at Wad Nún, I write to say that any details relating to the topography of your immediate neighbourhood will be very acceptable to the Geographical Society, as we know nothing of it, and but little of the country you have lately traversed, between Mogadór and Wad Nún.

“To save you trouble I have drawn up a few questions, requesting you, when you do not reply to them from personal knowledge, to state on what authority you give the answer, and whether you think it may be relied on or not.

[172]“1. Does a river called Wad Dar’ah pass through the town of Wad Nún, and does it flow to the sea?

“2. Do you know Wad Tegréwelt, and where is its outlet?

“3. Is Wad-el Gas [?] the same as Wad Mésah, and where is its embouchure?

“4. Is the town of Mésah on its banks, and how far from the coast?

“5. How far south of the river Sús does the river Mésah flow into the sea?

“6. Does a river Assa exist? if so, where is its outlet?

“7. How far is Mésah from ’Agúlú?

“8. How far is the town of Tárúdánt from the mouth of the river Sús? or from Santa Cruz?

“9. Our latest maps represent a branch of the river Sús, named Rás-el-Wad, rising thirty-five miles E.S.E. of Tárúdánt, running fifty miles to the S.W. circling round Mount Elálah, then flowing north fifty miles to join the river Sús, can you ascertain if this is correct?

“10. How far is Tedsí from Tárúdánt?

“11. Riley mentions Wád-e-Stá, between Istúkah and Santa Cruz, does it exist, and where?

“12. Are the towns of Istúkah and Talent on the river Assah or Mésah, and if so, how far from Mésah or from each other?

“13. Does a place called Gueder or Port Hillsborough exist, or is it the river Reguela of Arlett’s chart?

“14. Is the river Nún also called the river Akása?

“15. Is the river Soleïman, or the river immediately to the southward, of Cape Nún, of any extent and where is its source? Is any town situated on it?

“16. Is there any large town between Istúkah and Nún?

“17. Can you give a tolerable estimate of the population of any of the places above-mentioned?

“19. You state Adrar to be fifty miles south of the position assigned in our maps. Is not Adrar the name of a range of mountains, not of a town?

[173]“Pray excuse these detailed questions, but seeing the confusion in our maps, and knowing your zeal in the cause of geography, I venture to trouble you with them; let me recommend you, if possible to send duplicates of your information at every opportunity, for while travelling, in a wild and uncivilized country especially, it is difficult to ensure the safety of your papers.

“Mr. Renouard is well, and thanks Abú Bekr for his remembrances: he desires his kind regards to you and to him.

“Accept, dear Sir, our best and warmest wishes for your success; yet let me entreat you not to endanger unnecessarily your life even with the hope of accomplishing your journey to Tumbúktú; for however desirable it may be to reach that place, it is not worth risking life to obtain it.

“I am, very faithfully yours,

“(Signed) John Washington.

“John Davidson, Esq., Wad Nún.”

[The following letter was addressed to Mr. Vice-Consul Willshire at Mogadór, but forwarded by that gentleman to Mr. Davidson, who endorsed upon it the annexed answers to the questions contained in it.]

“Dear Sir:

“United Service Club, Charles Street, St. James’s,
London, 1st March 1836.

“From your kindness and civility towards my friend, Lieut. Arlett, who visited Mogadór, in command of H.M.S. Etna, and your readiness to give him all the information in your power, I feel no hesitation, although an entire stranger, in writing to you, to beg more information relating to the southern part of the empire of Marocco; as, in consequence of Arlett’s late survey having cut off a large slice from our maps between Santa Cruz and Cape Nún, several towns, such as Istúkah, Nún, &c. must be wrongly placed; if you can supply any notes on the subject, I shall feel much obliged to you, and shall gladly make use of them to correct our maps.

[174]“I may mention that I feel the more interested in this country, having accompanied Mr. Drummond Hay in his visit to the city of Marocco, in 1830, and thus having had the opportunity of correcting the map of the more northern parts of the empire.

“I have the pleasure to enclose for your acceptance, the best map hitherto published of Marocco, that of Count Grăberg af Hemsö, and to beg you will point out all the errors that you may be enabled to detect. In order to save you some trouble, I have drawn up a few questions, begging you, when you do not give the answer from personal knowledge, to state on what authority it is given, and whether you think it may be relied on.

“1. How far south of the river Sús does the river of Mésah flow into the sea; and is it known by that name to the natives, or by what?

“2. How far from its mouth is the town of Mésah situated?

“3. Is it a place of any importance now, and what may be its population?

“4. Does a river Assah exist? if so, where is its outlet? or are Assah and Mésah the same river? is either known by the name of Tesset?

“5. How far is the town of Mésah from ’Agulú?

“6. How far is the city of Tárúdánt from the mouth of the river Sús, or from Santa Cruz?

“7. What is the name of the stream just south of Mogadór? is it Wad al Ghored? and is it a stream of any size or extent? where is its source?

“8. The map represents a branch of the river Sús, named Ras-el-Wad, winding round Mount Elalah, and joining the Sús at Tárúdánt; does such a river exist, and is this any thing like its course?

“9. How far is Tedsi from Tárúdánt?

“10. Riley mentions Wad-e-stá, between Istúkah and Santa Cruz; is it rightly named, and where is its outlet?

“11. Are the towns of Istúkah and Talent on the Assah or Mésah; and if so, how far from Mésah, or from each other?

“12. Does a place called Gueder, or Port Hillsborough, exist? or is it the Wad Reguela of Arlett’s Chart?

[175]“13. Does a town called Wad Nún exist? or is it the name of a river, or of the country?

“14. How far is the town of Nún from the mouth of the river Nún, or from Cape Nún? and is it situated on the river Nún?

“15. Has the river Nún any other name? either Akassa or Wad-el-aksa?

“16. Is the river Soleïman, or the river immediately to the southward of Cape Nún, of any extent, and where is its source? is any town situated on it?

“17. Is there any town between Istúkah and Nún? how far is Ufaran from Talent?

“18. Can you give a tolerable guess at the population of any of the towns mentioned? and especially of Mogadór, Santa Cruz, &c., and the number of Jews they contain?

“Any other geographical information, towards correcting our maps will be thankfully received. May I beg you to take as early an opportunity as you conveniently can to answer these questions, and with every apology for the trouble I am giving

“Believe me, my dear Sir, faithfully yours,

(Signed) “John Washington.”

[The following replies were written by Mr. Davidson.]

“Question 1. About fifty-four miles—it is known by the name of Wad Mesah, and also called Wholgrass [?]

“2. The town is Assah, distant about two miles—a few scattered houses on each side to within half a mile of the sea.

“3. Of no importance; famed only for having near it a Tuesday market, to which many people resort—its population may be one hundred persons.

“4. Assah is the name of the district through which the river Mesah flows: neither is known by the name of Tesset.

“5. From ’Agulú fifteen miles; large town with a population of about six hundred.

“6. Equidistant; about thirty miles from each; and visible from both.

[176]“8. The Rás el Wad comes directly from the mountains, and passes by Tárúdánt where it takes the name of Sús.

“9. Tedsi is about twenty miles E.N.E. of Tárúdánt.

“10. I can learn nothing of Wad-e-Stá.

“11. There is no town called Stuka, it is a district; none that I can find, called Talent, there is Tilin; the Mesah flows through Stuka, in which district are twenty settlements, or towns if you like, some of them are large; they are known in general by the name of the Sheïkhs who inhabit them, I stopped at Sheïkh Hamed’s; Tilin was distant from this spot a day’s journey in the mountains towards the source of the river.

“12. This place is called Isgueder but not known by the name of Port Hillsborough; the people called the small river here Edaoguma; on this stream are twenty-five mills.

“13. Wad Nún is a large district having many clusters of habitations; the town where the Sheïkh resides is of a good size; has a Millah and a good market; it stands on the river (such as it is), distant twenty-two miles from the sea.

“15. Wad el Aisa comes from the mountains above Sok Aisa, and as it passes through the district of Wad Nún, it takes the name of Assaka.

“16. I have not yet been beyond two miles south of Wad Nún.

“17. There are at least twenty villages between Stuka and Wad Nún. If by Talent, Tissert is meant. Oferen is distant six miles.

“18. Population of Agadir forty-seven Mohammedans; Jews thirteen heads of families, and with their children amount to sixty-two. At Fonte, which is the port, about two hundred—no Jews.”

Extracts from Mr. Davidson’s Letters.

The following extracts are given with the view of explaining some allusions made in the Journal.

In a letter to Mr. G. D———d, Mr. Davidson says, “after endeavouring to enter Africa in forma pauperis, I tried another tack, and got up a staff of six officers in field-day regimentals, and embarking[177] in a brig of war the ‘Jasséen,’ landed at Tangier under a salute of eleven guns. This stamped me at once as a great man; and though I have been somewhat accustomed to such kind of greatness, I find it not very pleasant here, for I have Messúd, my Jewish interpreter, and Ben Hayed, my Moorish interpreter, and I can hardly stir without both being on the alert, the one watching my mouth, the other my eye.”

Speaking of the feelings of the natives towards a foreigner he says, “the people here are worse than any I have yet seen; they hate me because I am a Christian, although they are ready to praise me for my kindness to Abú, who is half-anxious and half afraid to proceed. His health is bad and spirits worse, and his powers quite unequal to what we shall have to go through. We certainly run some risk: I am very careful what he eats, and much fear that the threats thrown out against his getting back will prove too true. As for myself, I pass the time in riding with the Taurick, chatting with the Jews, and taking snuff with the Moors.”

Speaking of the Mona he observes, “I had to pay for a sheep, fowls, eggs, bread, and preserves, but being neither butcher, poulterer, baker or confectioner, the things were of little use to me. They call the present Mona, which may mean Manna; and as these vagabonds call themselves the image of God upon earth, they think it enough if they give only food.”

In allusion to the Lob el Barool he says, “It is literally ‘the game of smoke,’ and played by soldiers on horseback, who fire off their guns with only blank cartridges; but sometimes they put in a ball, which is sure to strike, of course by mere accident, a Christian.”

With regard to the ruins near the outset, Mr. D. seems to think they are Druidical, and he compares them with the remains of Stonehenge in Wiltshire.

Speaking of his medical life in Africa, he says, “all whom I cure come to be paid for allowing me to improve myself in my profession, and demand a piece of coin for every dose they have been taking; while[178] those I fail to cure abuse me for want of skill, and threaten to shorten my life for not prolonging theirs.”

The allusion to the electrical horse will be best explained by the following letter, written by Mr. D. to Professor Faraday, and by whom it was read at the Royal Institution.

“The great interest you take in all matters relating to electricity, and the great advantages which have resulted from your researches in that science, induce me to call your attention to a circumstance, perhaps not new to you, but which has recently fallen under my own observation. I received from the Sultan of Marocco the present of a horse of a peculiar breed, and as every person in this country is his own groom, I observed a peculiar tingling sensation in the hand on dressing the neck of the animal; this I attributed at first to the dirt and vermin with which the poor animals here are infested, and then thought no more of it. On leaving Marocco I proceeded towards the Atlas; and whenever I had occasion to consult my compass I found it extremely difficult, nay, impossible to keep it steady. I supposed this was owing to my sword and pistol; but as I wore these, when walking, without observing the same deflection, I dismounted, and holding the compass, I still perceived the same effect as long as I held it near the horse’s head; but when I left the animal, and put the instrument on the ground, the needle settled to its point. After a little reflection, the effect produced on my hand by rubbing the horse’s neck on the near side occurred to me; when repeating the experiment, I could perceive several distinct intimations of the same tingling sensation. We proceeded to our halt; and as soon as the party had sat down to their evening meal, I began to examine into the matter more closely. It was now dusk; on passing my hand down the neck, not only could I hear distinctly the electrical detonation, but perceive a quantity of sparks; both were such as would be produced by rubbing the large plate machine at the Royal Institution. Thinking the effect might still have been produced by animalculæ, and intending to visit the following day the ruins of Trassermant, I ordered the horse to be well washed[179] in the morning. On pouring water over his neck, I found a peculiar spasmodic action produced, which did not take place when it was poured upon any other part of the body, not even on the off-side of the neck, on which fell the mane. Ascending the lower part of the mountain chain toward the snow, the effect was scarcely visible; but on returning to the valley, it was considerably increased, and especially after the animal had been well washed and dried. Approaching the sea, it became more powerful, and at Mogadór I got several persons to witness the phenomenon. I was here told by the kaid, who had accompanied me from Marocco, to take great care of the animal; that there were very few of them in the country, and that the Sultán seldom gave them away; that it was not only a horse of high blood but of fire, and it would never tire. It has done a great deal of hard work, and fully bears out the character given of him. I have moreover observed, on touching him with the spur, or when he is excited by the firing of a gun, or the sight of other horses, that a violent action is produced on this side of the neck. Upon entering the desert, the effect nearly disappeared, and at the same time a great portion of his courage, although he continued to do his work well. The difference may, however, be owing to the great change from an abundant to a spare diet, and to his sympathising with his master by shewing more bone than flesh, as our meals are reduced to one a-day. Can the colour have any thing to do with it? He is golden dun, with a black mane and tail. I have seen but three of the same hue, two in the stables of the Sultán, and the third in the possession of the Sheïkh of Stuka; but I could not obtain permission to examine them. I am very anxious to send him to England; but I fear it will be impossible, as the whole of the persons in power in Marocco are so incensed against me for having eluded their vigilance, and succeeded in getting out of the empire upon the direct track of the gold district, that I am told that no favour would now be granted, and that if I come back, I shall rue what I have done in passing to this place. The road is now open to me: my intention is not to follow the caravan route, but to proceed with a small escort and[180] a few camels by the road the couriers take, and thus obtain a new line and bearing to establish the position of Tumbuktú. I had made a collection for the Royal Institution of some mineralogical and fossil specimens; amongst which were many of copper, antimony and lead, and what they here call brass (nhas asfer). The last was obtained, but with difficulty, for Professor Berzelius, at the request of the consul-general at Tangiers. But having to lighten my baggage, when passing through Lower Suse, the mule-load of stones had to be sent away, with a promise that they should be forwarded to Mogadór. They were addressed to yourself, with a request to send the duplicates to the professor at Stockholm. I fear much they will never reach you, as a Berber told me the people will be sure to think they contain gold, and they will all be sent to the furnace.”

It appears, however, by a letter to Mr. Drummond Hay, that Sheïkh Alí subsequently told Mr. Davidson, that finding they were only stones, he, the Sheïkh, had thrown them away, but had kept the baskets.

In allusion to the project of making Agadeer the port for sending goods into the interior of Africa, he says, that the people there asserted that the story circulated of the insecure state of property in that country was unfounded; that such reports were spread by the people of Mogadór, who feared that foreigners would come and settle there, if it was thought that trade could be carried on with Suse better by that route than the old one. It was this very dread of the trade being directed into a new channel, that seems to have thrown such impediments in the way of Mr. D.’s journey to Tumbuktú.

FOOTNOTES:

[1]This was the agent of the Emperor of Morocco, then residing, as a merchant, at Gibraltar. He died lately, leaving a fortune of 3,000,000 dollars.

[2]The opposition of Mr. Hay arose from his fears of the perilous nature of Mr. Davidson’s enterprize, and his unwillingness, therefore, to take upon himself any responsibility. This is distinctly shewn by Mr. Hay’s letter, given in the Appendix.

[3]This is the name of a vessel whose arrival is noted on Nov. 8. It had probably carried Mr. Hay from Gibraltar to Tangier, and then returned for the purpose of conveying Mr. Hay’s son thither, on his arrival from England.

[4]This is the Moorish name for a market-place.

[5]Fantasia is said of a fair intended for pleasure only, and not for business.

[6]This is the name of the highest hill in the Mexican Cordillera of the Andes.

[7]Lálá is Lady in Arabic, and r is sometimes substituted for l.

[8]So in the MS.

[9]This is a Persian word for a present, and, though common in Turkey, not used in Morocco.

[10]This is a kind of a tilt, where one party endeavours to unhorse the other.

[11]Who the Doctor was is not told by Mr. D.

[12]This is the name of a province of Morocco. Two of the Ríf guns were sent to London and are in the possession of Mr. D.’s brother.

[13]Persons attached to a mosque, whose business is to call the faithful to prayers. The word is pronounced Mu-edkdhin by the Arabs, and Mu-ezzin by the Turks, Persians, and Indians.

[14]This was a place so called by its modern name: its former one was Emsórah, as stated a little farther on. It is properly Autád (pegs or stakes), but the Moors often confound t and th, which latter they generally pronounce ts. The long á has often the sound of é, and the final d becomes t.

[15]Adwár, or dawár; it is used to signify a village; it is properly a circular encampment.

[16]For Mesbrah or Musawwesah (sculptured).

[17]This is a dish of grain, rice, &c. prepared as food for the common people, which they eat in immense quantities. It appears to be not unlike the piláú, the favourite dish of the Turks.

[18]The following account cannot fail to strike those who have seen or heard of the circles at Stonehenge.

[19]Mr. D. seems to allude here to a similar tradition in some part of Ireland.

[20]Adwárátie, i.e. villages.

[21]Specimens of the ore were sent to the Royal Institution.

[22]Perhaps Mr. D. had in his mind the passage in Shakspeare, where Catherine says, “Asses were made to bear, and so shall you;” to which Petruchio replies, “Women were made to bear, and so shall you.”

[23]They are said to live chiefly on milk.

[24]These helmets and guns were sent to London, and are now in the possession of the brother of Mr. D.

[25]So in the MS.

[26]An Ardeb, equal to about 3½ bushels, is a common measure in Egypt; and as Mr. Davidson had travelled in that country, he might easily suppose they spoke of Ardebs, when he heard them mention Arrobas (Alrob’ah, a quart.)

[27]So, too, the French have lately discovered some Roman ruins at Setif in Africa. A triumphal arch, erected in honour of Caracalla, has been also found at Jemmílah, together with a Roman causeway, that unites those two places.—See Times, Feb. 4, 1839.

[28]Wád el Áyéshah (the cheering river) is crossed before the traveller reaches Fahs-el-ríhán. See map (Geogr. Journ. i. 124.)

[29]During the Ramadán, the Muselmán takes nothing between sun-rise and sun-set; but afterwards makes up for his abstinence by eating voraciously.

[30]This will be understood by comparing the dates of the three preceding days.

[31]The last Chapter in the Korán.

[32]Called Mináreh, or Mináret, by Persians, Turks, and Eastern Arabs.

[33]Market-place.

[34]The Millah is the part of a Moorish town where the Jews reside.

[35]It is probable that, as the news of Mr. D.’s journey to Morocco had preceded him, the chief, who met him on this occasion, had, like many others, come with the view of extorting a present in return for the civility shown to an English traveller.

[36]This is probably a Moorish expression, to denote a trifling present.

[37]So in the map; in the MS. ‘Sheivra or Sheraga.’

[38]In the map, ‘Mansoría.’

[39]For Ahmed a transposition of letters common among the Moors, who say Embárek, for Mobárek; Imhammed for Mohammed, &c.

[40]All travellers in Morocco agree in stating that Christians are held there in the greatest detestation; nor could the Moors understand the motives that led Mr. D. to act the kindly part he did towards Abú, who had been at once a Musulman, a negro, and a slave.

[41]“Azammór of Sheïkh Shu’eïb,” says Abú-l-Fedá in his Geography of Africa, page 4.

[42]Properly Mazíghan.

[43]Marking the direction of Mecca, to which the Muselmán must turn when praying.

[44]This is the Spanish and Moorish word for a light-house, lantern, or watch-tower.

[45]So in MS. Mr. D. seems to have again lost his reckoning.

[46]So in MS.

[47]Here is a blank in the manuscript; most probably the garden of Reduan. See plan of the city of Marocco in London Geographical Journal, vol. i.

[48]So in MS.

[49]So in the MS.

[50]Pieces of the Korán are used by the Moorish doctors as charms—a superstition that Mr. D. probably adopted to humour his patients, but which the minister was surprised to find an English physician resorting to. Knowing how acceptable verses from the Korán are to Mussulmans, Mr. Davidson had a selection printed on slips of coloured paper before he left London.

[51]Mr. D. is here speaking metaphorically. He conceived that the Kaid of Mogador wished to get at his motive for visiting Timbuctoo; he therefore gave him no clue, by saying nothing on the subject. It is a slang metaphor.

[52]So in the original MS., with a blank.

[53]This was taken by the French during their attack on Algiers.

[54]Took a pill and a draught.

[55]These letters make the nearest approach to the marks in the MS.

[56]These are dresses worn by the Jewish priests; they were sent to London.

[57]So in the MS.

[58]These were two medicine chests sent to the Emperor of Morocco from London.

[59]Eunuch.

[60]So in MS. Mr. D. probably alluded to the black Towáshi.

[61]i.e. Writer.

[62]This dress was never received; nor is any further mention made of it in the letters.

[63]These are damascened in gold, and are now in England.

[64]So in MS.

[65]The number of feet is not given in the journal; but as this place was also visited in January 1830, by Mr. Drummond Hay and his party, who carried a good barometer with them, we know that it is elevated about 1,800 feet above the city of Marocco, and 3,000 feet above the sea. See London Geographical Journal, vol. i. p. 150.

[66]So in MS.

[67]Or Shulúh, the plural of Shilhah.

[68]Some specimens of these were sent to London.

[69]Capt. Washington, who went over this ground, says that the douars or adwars, here alluded to, are in reality villages with stone houses. Ed.

[70]These were presented at Mr. D.’s desire to the Royal Institution.

[71]That is, from leaving Tasremút.

[72]N.N.W.?

[73]This is called in some maps Imizmizi.

[74]Pronounced Hámet by the Moors, who frequently invert the first letters of names, and say Imhammet for Mohammed.

[75]Scoundrels.

[76]This was brought, in all likelihood, for purchase, as Mr. D. was very fond of all sorts of arms, and had sent many kinds of daggers to England.

[77]Elæodendron Argan, from the berries of which an oil much used in Marocco, is extracted.

[78]Mubárek.

[79]So in MS.

[80]Places in Africa have frequently two names—one Buber, and the other Arabic. (Zemima?)

[81]This is a kind of sham-fight, in which the parties charge each other at full gallop, and after firing their pistols at the horses’ feet wheel round. It is a favourite amusement with the Moors and Arabs.

[82]This place is called also Santa Cruz.

[83]The place of prayer, oratory.

[84]Name of Mohammedan Saints.

[85]First chapter of the Korán, used as the Lord’s Prayer is by Christians.

[86]This is a preparation of grain, or rather grits, and forms, like oatmeal in Scotland, the food of the common people in Súdán, where it is called Mogús.

[87]People of Sús.

[88]Caravan.

[89]This person was the agent to the Sheïkh of Wád Nún.

[90]His illness had commenced by his having had some of his ribs broken; to cure which, he had been hung up by his hands: but this had been carried too far.

[91]Friendship for thee!

[92]It is properly Núl, and was so named when the Arabs possessed Portugal: Queen Núnah is a modern invention.

[93]A good idea of the buildings is furnished by the annexed lithographic engraving.

[94]This was the name of the Sheïkh.

[95]This port was at the mouth of the river Darah, as stated afterwards.

[96]The letters in original MS. are written in such faint ink, that it is difficult to decypher them.

[97]So in MS.

[98]This office had been previously done by a Jewess, as stated a little farther on.

[99]He kept his promise. The gun is now in the possession of Mr. D.’s brother.

[100]This person is a constant traveller to Tumbuktú, and a very considerable merchant.

[101]This is the celebrated French traveller to Tumbuktú.

[102]Wind-bibbers, i.e. dromedaries. G. C. R.

[103]This is the Moorish name for a dagger, as already stated.

[104]Properly Murábit or Murábut, equivalent to Fakír or Dervísh, terms little used in Barbary. G. C. R.

[105]Tamar means date in Arabic. G. C. R.

[106]My prophet is Mahomet.

[107]Properly Maúlid, i.e. Mohammed’s birth-day kept on the 12th of Safer.

[108]This is the name of the horse of the desert, which is said to have been fed on camels’ milk. So too Xenophon, in his Anabasis, speaks of the ostriches in Mesopotamia, that are run down by fleet horses. Sháribu-r-ríh, pronounced Shérb by the Moors.

[109]This is probably done partly to allay the itching, and partly to prevent the matter from collecting in the nose; from whence it would discharge itself into the mouth, and passing from thence into the stomach produce a most horrible nausea.

[110]This is a cant phrase for going away; for it appears that Mr. D. was offended with him.

[111]Rághebát.

[112]The poisoned (samúm) wind of the desert.

[113]El Hamdo li-lláhi (praise be to God).

[114]Berbers.

[115]This is the Moorish name for a dagger.

[116]By S is probably meant Shade. The point at which the thermometer stood at one P.M. is omitted; because Mr. D. did not then think of noticing the difference between the sun and the shade.

[117]Because it was a proof of the Sheïkh’s want of hospitality, in compelling Mr. D. to purchase his food.

[118]Mr. D. perhaps meant to say, that Abú had no idea of the relative bearings of places.

[119]Genii spirits.

[120]This is the same engagement as that taken by Mohammed Múlid.

[121]Amongst the papers of Mr. D. was found the following description of the Simúm, written while it was passing:—“To describe the awful scourge of the desert defies all the powers of language. The pencil assisted by the pen might perhaps afford a faint idea of it. Winged with the whirlwind, and chariotted in thunder, it urged its fiery course, blasting all nature with its death-fraught breath. It was accompanied by a line of vivid light, that looked like a train of fire, whose murky smoke filled the whole wide expanse, and made its horrors only the more vivid. The eye of man, and voice of beast were both raised to heaven, and both then fell upon the earth. Against this sand-tempest, all the fortitude of man fails, and all his efforts are vain. To Providence alone must he look. It passed us, burying one of my camels. As soon as we rose from the earth, with uplifted hands to heaven for its preservation, we awoke to fresh horrors. Its parching tongue had lapped the water from our water-skins, and having escaped the fiery hour we had to fear the still more awful death from thirst.”

[122]Dagger.

[123]The Holy Book, i.e. the Pentateuch.

[124]Jewish Arabic, for Asháb, i.e. Companions, Plur. of Sáhib.

[125]Robbers.

[126]The spellings of several proper names in these Notes are very doubtful.

[181]APPENDIX.

[From the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of London, vol. vii., p. 144—172.]

Extracts from the Correspondence of the late Mr. Davidson, during his residence in Morocco; with an Account of his further progress in the Desert.[127]

The much-lamented close of Mr. Davidson’s life, an event which every member of the Geographical Society will unite in deploring, has made it the melancholy duty of that body to preserve some record of his latest exertions in pursuit of geographical knowledge. For that purpose his various friends and correspondents were requested to place in the hands of the Secretary such of his letters as contained any observations of moment; to this request they readily acceded, and the acknowledgments of the Society are more particularly due to his Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex, to whose gracious encouragement Mr. Davidson was mainly indebted for his favourable reception in Morocco, and who, with his wonted liberality, has allowed the transcription of the most interesting communications received from that enterprising traveller. To the extracts from Mr. Davidson’s own letters, are added such accounts as have been at different times forwarded respecting his further progress and the fatal determination of his journey, the particulars of which are still involved in some doubt, though concerning the main point, the loss of his valuable life, there is unhappily no place for hope.

It would have been highly gratifying had it been possible to introduce these extracts to the reader, by a detailed memoir of Mr. Davidson’s extensive travels in every quarter of the globe; but the materials furnished by such various and remote journeys could not have been collected and arranged in the short period which has elapsed since the sad intelligence of his end has been authenticated. Those journeys were also performed before their author was in correspondence with this Society, and for that reason are not necessarily connected with its Journal. His instructive lecture on the site of Jerusalem and the movements of the investing armies, the manuscript of which, had it received[182] its author’s last corrections, would have formed a suitable counterpart to his description of a mummy which he opened and described after his return from Egypt, might have been inserted in this collection, had it not been too closely confined to topography and history to be properly placed among geographical disquisitions.

In the summer of 1835, Mr. Davidson, whose ardour was not checked by the many hazards and difficulties he had already experienced, formed the adventurous project of a journey into the heart of Africa, by what may be termed the most direct route. He therefore embarked in September, 1835, for Gibraltar, on his way to Morocco, from which country he hoped to reach Tumbuktú by the route of Tâfilêlt, the road by which Réné Caillé travelled from that city northwards. To the almost insurmountable obstacles which would meet him at every step, Mr. Davidson was no stranger. His personal courage, however, his power of enduring fatigue and change of climate, readiness at finding expedients to obviate difficulties, and, above all, his peculiar urbanity, which could not fail to prepossess even strangers in his favour, gave his friends, and still more perhaps himself, a confidence which even those excellent qualifications could hardly justify. To many other accomplishments particularly valuable in such an undertaking he added a considerable knowledge of medicine, to which, indeed, he was in the main indebted for the accomplishment of that part of his journey which he did execute; and should his papers have escaped the notice of the savages who assassinated him, they may hereafter add another leaf to the laurels with which his brow is already graced.

The only person by whom Mr. Davidson was accompanied was a negro baptized in the West Indies by the appellation of Edward Donnelan, but better known in this country by his Muselmán name of Abú Bekr, of whom some account has been given in this Journal.[128] He is occasionally mentioned in the following letters by the name of Abou, and should he not have sunk under the privations and fatigues of the desert, may possibly hereafter supply us with a more authentic account of his lamented employer’s end than any which we have hitherto received.

Mr. Davidson, as was before remarked, was well aware of the difficulties which awaited him, and at Gibraltar, where he was detained nearly three months by the impossibility of clearing his way into the empire of Morocco, he met Mr. Hay, his Britannic Majesty’s Consul-General in Barbary, who “seems to think” (he says in a letter to Dr. Lee, dated 13th September, 1835) “that we shall not be able to get on.” His resolution was not so easily to be shaken; he proceeded to Tangier,[129] and after waiting there a considerable time, had at length the satisfaction of informing his brother, Mr. T. Davidson, on the 13th December, that he had “that morning received a most kind and flattering letter from the Sultán of Morocco, accompanied by a few lines from[183] his minister,” commanding him to repair to the court, where he should experience nothing but what would be agreeable to him. This letter was accompanied by another to “El’ Arbi Essaidi, the káïd of Tangier, directing him to provide everything for his safe conduct, and enclosing letters to all the governors by whom he had to pass, that they should pay him respect, honour, and hospitality, inasmuch as he was travelling to benefit his fellow-creatures; that the governor [al-káïd] should provide him a guard of ten horsemen, commanded by a káïd [captain], who would enforce respect and ensure the due performance of the Sultan, their master’s orders, which were that he should be treated with respect and consideration; and that his Majesty enclosed for him, the governor [of Tanjah], money for the soldiers, and extra pay for the káïd, who were to act under his orders, and be guided by his discretion.” “Such,” he adds, “is the manner, after a delay of three months, that I commence my arduous undertaking. I almost fear it is of too flattering a character, but must only use the more discretion.”

Antecedently to the receipt of these gracious orders from the Sultán, Mr. Davidson’s residence at Tanjah had not been either agreeable or encouraging, as appears from the following extract from a letter to Dr. Lee, written (10th December) only three days before the last:—“My good and grateful companion [Abú Bekr] begs me to forward the few lines he has this morning written to you, and I wish I could send you any particulars as to our journey, or any new observations on the small portion of this country which we have seen. With the exception of two or three excursions, [at] the utmost under fifty miles, I have been confined to the walls of this place, waiting the Sultán’s permission to proceed into the interior. The jealousy of this people exceeds all belief; their insults [are] innumerable, and I fear their determination is not to allow us to proceed. I have, however, by means of a few presents, bought the interest of the governor of this place and of Tetuan, and have been allowed to visit the places in the neighbourhood, but never without a soldier, from whose view I cannot proceed one step. I have examined some of the neighbouring mountains, most rich in iron, and specimens of jaspar and large masses of fossils. I have also passed some hours at the various douars,[130] or Arab encampments, have taken measurements of the ruins of the Outset,[131] or Pharaoh’s Peg, as it is called; some observations on which I hope shortly to send to England. I propose next week, should I not receive my permission to proceed south, [to] go from hence to the Divarretts, amongst whose hills are some Bedouins. One large tribe, who used to escort the hadjis from this to Mecca, still remain in the neighbourhood; and I think some of them would for a good consideration take me to Mourzouk, from whence I could get upon the caravan-track for Soudan. I have had[184] some conversation with the Sheïk of Wadnoon [132] here, on his return from Mecca; but he states he cannot take me through Morocco, but will protect me, should I get to his dominions. The second rains have commenced with more than usual violence, and part of the country is impassable, which may account in some degree for [my] not receiving my answer from Morocco. I shall lose no time as soon as I receive this, nor shall I delay more than this month, and if this fail, I shall commence the year by a new route. My health, thank God, is very good; but I am sorry to say that Abou has had his sight much affected; and I fear he is very unequal to the journey. I am taking every care of him by nursing him; and he is too, I grieve to say, an object of great suspicion.”

Secure under such a protection, Mr. Davidson lost no time in proceeding to the capital, and had the satisfaction of giving his brother an account of his progress in the following letter:—

“The Garden of Mulai Moussa, Morocco, 18th Jan. 1836.

“My dear Brother,—I fear from what has accidentally transpired, that it is the Emperor’s intention to detain me here for some time. I have little cause for regret, this not being the season for me to cross the chain of Atlas, and any hurry on my part would only lead to suspicion, which might prove highly injurious to my projects. According to the Sultan’s directions, I started from Tangier with my caid [káïd, or captain] and his ten soldiers, accompanied, [for] the first two hours, by thirty of the consular corps: the good wishes of all, I believe, I possess—Mr. John Hay, the Consul’s son, and M. Crusentolphe, the Swedish Vice-Consul, accompanying me on to Rabat,[133]—eight days’ journey. I found much benefit, and derived great pleasure from the company of these gentlemen, the former of whom is a perfect master of Arabic. I have been also most fortunate in procuring an excellent dragoman,[134] who holds the office of interpreter to the British Consulate at Tetuan, and who has obtained three months’ leave of absence, and is now my paid servant. He has twice attended the English medical men who have been sent for to attend the Sultán, with whom he is a great favourite. To Rabat, the country presents little worthy of observation; a fine fertile plain, rich valleys, with numerous streams, and a succession of mountain ranges reaching as far as the eye will carry one. A little circumstance had nearly deprived me of the great source of safety, and the main stay on which I have to rely. Crossing an arm of the sea, at the Coubba of Mulai Ben Absolam,[135] my mules got into a quicksand, and I[185] was obliged to dismount my soldiers, who had to wade the ford, their horses accompanying the baggage, the ropes being passed round the mules’ necks and haunches to draw them out. Most of my clothes [were] spoiled, and many of my little luxuries destroyed. Our weather, fortunately, was fine, and this induced us to stop and dry our clothes, which keeping us too late to reach our place appointed for encampment, we sent on the Sultán’s letter to have a mona and house prepared at Mehidia.[136] The man mistook the road; and on our arrival, the Governor refused to give anything to either the soldiers, muleteers, or the animals. He had been told all his directions were in the letter, and his only verbal orders were to pay me every respect and hospitality. He took me and my party out to his gardens, got ready a part of his house, provided most amply for the three and my servants, but left both men and beasts starving, they not having had any food, this being Ramadan, for eighteen hours. Starting me in the morning, he gave me an additional escort of thirty men, to take me to Sallee,[137] opposite to Rabat. Arrived there, we were again without our letter; but the Emperor’s son had sent orders about me. I had to make some disturbance here; was detained two days, to wait for an escort of two hundred horse, to be relieved by other two hundred, owing to an insurrection which has just broken out amongst the Zaire, who, it appears, expecting I was coming richly laden, had determined to take me. They had plundered all the parties who had, for the last three days, passed their district. My letter arriving, the Governor altered his tone towards me. I had refused to pay him a second visit, because I was not treated with sufficient respect, and informed him I should appeal to the Sultán on my arrival at this place [Morocco]. He now comes to say my guard is ready, and he intends to accompany me the first two hours, when the Lieutenant-Governor is to take me on to the Commander of the Forces, who is posted at midway between this and the Douar at which I am to sleep. This sight was most beautiful: the variety of dress and arms, the beauty of the Barb horse, and the meeting of sixty of the Oudaia,[138] who, added to my first escort, swelled our party to above three hundred. We had a slight row on the road, [and] took one man, which had nearly set the escort at war. The poor fellow claimed the protection of the Oudaia by a sign which they must acknowledge, and these, with some of their comrades amongst the party who accompanied me from Rabat, separating from the main body, prepared their guns for action. I had some difficulty, with the assistance of my caid, who appealed to their conduct before the person they had to escort. One man [was] severely wounded, and many [were the] losses of turbans, caps, &c. At our halt, having been joined by a large caravan on the road, we covered a considerable space.

“I encamped in the centre: my marquee, my caid’s tent, two tents for my soldiers;[186] Hassan, a sort of consular agent, going to Mazagan, with a little black tent between mine and the caid’s; our muleteers in the rear; our horses and mules in a circle, and surrounded by about sixty soldiers: outside of this, the camels and the rest of the party. We [were] disturbed in the night by a large wolf, who had prowled in amongst us. Of these and the wild boar [there are] many traces. [We were] off early, and at eleven experienced a hurricane, which obliged us all to stop. Our animals [were] unable to face it, and we obliged for safety to dismount. Here our guard left us. All drenched to the skin, [we] proceeded to Dar-el-Beida,[139] and had no sooner got our tents up, than I received a message from Mulai Abdrahman,[140] the Emperor’s second son, to say he had prepared a place for me in the court of the palace, and that it was too dangerous to sleep outside the walls. I went, praying to be excused the fatigue of striking the tents uselessly.

“On entering the town I was received by his guard, who galloping close to me, fired their guns so near my face that I was nearly blinded. [The Prince is] a poor, puny boy, but having a very intelligent, wary Mentor. He had the orders of his father to bid me welcome. From this to Azamor,[141] on the Omer Begh,[142] where I met with the best of all receptions; the Governor accompanied me to Morocco with sixty horse. We ascended the three steps to the plain of Morocco. On the last night, at a place called Swynia, I was robbed of your gold watch and part of Abou’s clothes. They have since been returned. On crossing a kantarah [143] over the Tensift, I was met by a party of soldiers commanded by a caid, to bid me welcome in the Emperor’s name, his Majesty being out reviewing his cavalry. They were to conduct me to the ruins I now inhabit. I was taken round the walls by Haha, the place of the lepers, who have not the privilege of entering the city. This added above six miles to my already long journey. I found this place greatly in ruins: it must have been splendid. My room, which is bed-room and parlour and all, is thirty-eight feet long, eighteen wide, twenty-six high, richly ornamented, but without the slightest article of furniture. This forms one room of a square, the other parts [being] occupied by my servants, the caid, his soldiers, &c. And I have this day an accession of fifty persons, with the Emperor’s father-in-law, who has come to pay his respects, this being the season of the feast after Ramadan.[144] The old Moor, Seedy Mulai Ben Alee Abdrahan, has paid me a visit, and has become a patient. This evening I had to see his ladies, all fancying they were ill, [and eager] to see the Christian after two days’ quiet (as they call it), that is, not travelling. I was ordered to be in readiness as soon as it became dark, to go and see the Minister. A person[187] would come for me, and I was to put on a cloak, and follow with a dragoman. At seven, an old Moor, with two soldiers carrying lanthorns, came for me. I was surrounded, as soon as I was out of my gate, by soldiers, and taken, as well as I could judge, about two miles, through large masses of ruins, crowded bazaar,[145] (the people giving way,) and numerous narrow streets. Not a word; but at each gate my guard pronounced the word El Hadge, and we passed. Arrived at a low door-way, a black slave asked for the word—this was pronounced—and then my dragoman and I were ushered into a narrow passage in total darkness. Through the court-yard into which this opened we observed several persons pass out; when a small door opening behind us, the Minister (whom we had seen at the palace in the morning) was waiting to receive us. Tea was brought, and in the centre of this room stood a single chair, on which I was to sit. I was then bade welcome in the name of the Sultán, [and was told] that I was to consider myself his guest; that I had only to wish, and it should be granted; that his master was only waiting for the fast to terminate, when he would see me. A host of fulsome compliments!

“I was then shown the vegetable productions of the country used as medicines; requested to report upon them; and questioned as to the progress of medical science. I spoke of the countries I had visited, and was assured that I should find more to be pleased with in my reception here. I was then asked to feel the Minister’s pulse, and report on his health; then to know if I would examine his black ladies, two of whom were but so-so,—a pretty job! I played my part well. Orders were given that no one be admitted. I was then told that the Lieutenant-Governor of the Meshwar [146] would come in the morning, and take me to all the Sultan’s palaces and gardens, and that a guard would be at my command whenever I wished to go out. I shall describe all these to you when I get home. I am under a strict espionage, and worried to death with patients. I saw the Sultan whilst passing through his palace, and have received his orders to visit him on Friday. His favourite wife is ill, and the difficulty is how to let me see her. I have refused to prescribe for her, without. The court physician is here twice a-day, and I have assisted him in one or two cases, and he thinks there never was such a doctor. A Seidlitz powder astonished him beyond all belief. I go next week to Atlas to visit some strange cities inhabited by Jews. Of these I shall write to his Royal Highness. El Hadge is here again, to say the Sultán has sent him to say that five of his guard will be here in the morning to conduct me to the great markets, and after this to an inspection of the cavalry, and to ask if anything can be done to make me more comfortable.”

[188]Notwithstanding his incessant and wearisome occupation as both physician and apothecary to the Maroquine Court, Mr. Davidson found leisure for scientific inquiries, not forgetting those to which his attention had been particularly directed by H. R. H. the President of the Royal Society, who with his well-known condescension had desired this enterprising traveller to correspond with him. The result of his first inquiries was communicated in these terms:—

“Morocco, 3d February, 1836.

“Sir,—I have deferred taking advantage of your Royal Highness’s condescension in permitting me to address you, hoping that I should ’ere this have made my excursion to the five villages in the valley of the Southern Atlas inhabited by Jews, who differ much from any I have yet met with. Hitherto I have been able to glean but little from the few who visit the city, which is principally supplied by them with charcoal; but having this day received the Sultan’s permission to proceed and to continue my journey to Wadnoon (from which place I hope to join a caravan now collecting, to proceed to Soudan), should I succeed in this, I should not have an opportunity of addressing your Royal Highness; an honour of which I shall ever feel most proud.

“The Jews of Atlas are far superior, both physically and morally, to their brethren residing among the Moors. Their families are numerous, and each of these is under the immediate protection of a Berber (the aboriginal inhabitants of North Africa), patron, or master. They have, however, their own Sheik, a Jew, to whose jurisdiction all matters are referred. Differing from the Jews residing amongst the Moors, who are punished by the Mussulman laws, they are not in the same state of debasement or servitude; their case is one of patron and client, and all enjoy equal privileges, and the Berber is bound to take up the cause of the Jew upon all emergencies. They all carry arms, and serve by turns with their patrons. They state [that] they did not go to the Babylonish captivity; that they possess many writings; that they have a city cut out of the solid rock, with rooms above rooms, in which they dwelt upon [their] first coming to this country; and that there are some writings carved in these rocks which they attribute to some early Christians who came and drove them into the valley [which] they now inhabit. As I purpose making some few days’ stay amongst them, under the plea of searching for medicinal plants, I hope to be able to furnish your Royal Highness with some interesting particulars respecting these people, and to discover if these reports be true. I have received an invitation from their patriarch, who wishes to be informed the day before I visit them; it being his intention (having heard I had paid some attention to the sick Jews residing here) to come out to meet me. Your Royal Highness will scarcely credit the ignorance and debasement of the Jews of Morocco. The chief of the Millah, their quarter, was astonished to hear that the Bible used by the Christians contained the Psalms of David; and much more so, to[189] hear that the Psalms were sung daily in our churches. I have endeavoured in vain to learn anything from them on your Royal Highness’s question as to the change of their time. I have been detained above a month in this city, owing to the indisposition of the Sultan, and the sickness of many of his favourites, and have been appointed court-physician. My stock of medicines is nearly exhausted, and having to see, upon an average, fifty patients a day, and compound the whole of the medicines myself, my own health has begun to suffer. Although I am fed from the royal table, I have no time to take my food; my patients coming at break of day, and remaining till dark; and I am seldom able to prepare the necessary medicines before midnight.

“I have a respite, if it may be so called, having to go to the Sultan every morning, but then all his ladies have something to ask for; and before I see his Highness I have to write from the mouths of the eunuchs all the ladies’ complaints, and bring them something the next day. This is unknown to his Highness, to whom I have respectfully refused to prescribe, unless I can [see] my patients. The head-physician has been ordered to spend two hours a-day in my room, to learn my treatment, and his son is to come in the evening, and see the mode of compounding medicines. The common Moorish doctors, who have but one remedy, firing, have been sent to perform their cures before me; I have had to make a report upon the state of medical science in all the countries I have visited, and to examine the few medicines they use, and state my opinions. Having accidentally stated [that] I believed many of their complaints arose from the manner of preparing their food, I have had to taste all the Sultan’s dishes, to mix simple drinks for him, and to look at the soil in which his vegetables are cultivated. But all to no purpose; they prefer their own plan to any recommendation of mine. I am happy, however, to inform your Royal Highness, that by strictly complying with their wishes, and having been more than [ordinarily] fortunate in my practice, I have made many friends, succeeded in removing suspicion, and obtained from the Sultán the promise of every assistance. He has presented me with a fine horse, given me a guard of ten soldiers, and promised me one hundred to escort me to Wadnoon, where his territory finishes. I am in treaty with the Sheik of Wadnoon, having offered him one thousand dollars if he will ensure my life to Timbuctoo; and the only difference now is between accident or climate. But as I well know that every accident will be construed into climate, I will not pay the sum till he places me in the city. I beg now most respectfully to present my humble duty to your Royal Highness, and with my fervent prayers that your Royal Highness’s health may be perfectly established,

“I have the honour to remain,
“Your Royal Highness’s very obedient, humble servant,

“John Davidson.”

[190]Early in March, 1836, the Emperor’s health having been restored, his English physician was at length permitted to travel, not, as he wished, to the S.E., but to the S.W.; the route by Tâfilêlt being interdicted by the good-will or jealousy of the Sultán. Mr. Davidson, however, was prepared for this disappointment, and had already taken steps to secure a good reception among the Arabs of Wád Nún, on the north-western border of the Sahrá. On the 7th of March, 1836, he announced his arrival at Agadir, or Santa Cruz, in a letter to his brother, which has furnished the following extracts:—

“I was detained by the snow after leaving Morocco. . . . My reception and stay at court has surprised everybody. I have the most favourable promises of support and assistance, but do not believe quite all that is said, the Sultán having made me promise to return to his empire, and pass some months at Fez, or Mequinez, to instruct his people in the practice of medicine. Leaving Morocco, I attempted the ascent of Atlas, at Trasremoot, but at the elevation of five thousand feet was compelled by the snow to descend. This led me to visit a line of country as yet unseen by Europeans. I inspected more than one hundred villages of Jews and Berbers, was well treated, and orders had been given that at each principal place the governor should come out to meet me with his people under arms; that the principal towns should furnish three hundred fowls, ten sheep, and ten ducats for my maintenance, and provide barley for my horses and mules, and those of my soldiers. At the places where I only passed, the chief of the Jews were to come and make offerings of milk and wine; the former being changed from the primitive or patriarchal offering of bread. These I had to touch and pour a little of each on my horse’s mane. This done, food, both raw and dressed, was offered; and after a sort of song, I was suffered to proceed. At all the valleys they were desired to bring me the productions, and to show me any and all plants used as food or medicines; and on these I had to pronounce an opinion.

“My practice as a medical man has been so fortunate, and my distribution of medicines so general, that I have had work to answer even the questions. During my stay in Morocco, twelve hundred persons passed through my hands, and I had, at one time, the Sultán, several of his Ladies, the whole of the Ministry, the Cadi and Judicial Corps, the Commander of the Forces, and the Four Great Saints, Seedy Ben Abbas, Seedy Abdel Kader, Seedy Bush Eid, and Seedy Omberak,[147] under my care. The Zaire, of whom I wrote to you, and who intended to make me their prisoner, have broken into open warfare, and the people here are only waiting for the Sultán’s departure for the north to commence a disturbance. These people are all favourable to letting me pass, and the Suses and the Waled Abusebas,[148] whom I had been told to fear,[191] have sent to beg of me to come on. My present difficulty is to get out of this empire. I have the Sultán’s order to remain at Terodant,[149] he having no power to protect me beyond this; but Sheik Beirock, of Wadnoon, informs he will; and had I not applied to the Sultán for a letter of protection, he would have taken me and passed me across the Desert, provided I would pay him a consideration.

“He will send me by a route used only by his couriers; but for this, at this season, I must take water and provision for two months, and send on some dromedaries, which will be posted about midway, where I have to halt; and by leaving my tired ones, and proceeding without a stop, I shall be able to pass before the Tuaricks have knowledge of my arrival. All this I feel I can do; but my companion, Abou, is, I am afraid, quite unequal to it. Sheik Beirock’s brother, who is with me, tells me Abou will be a safe passport for me, as soon as I arrive in Soudan: that one of his family is the present Sheik of Timbuctoo, and that his cousin, the son of Abou’s uncle, from whom he was stolen, is now the king of Houssa. He was fully acknowledged at Morocco, and my dragoman had orders from the palace to treat him with respect, as he was a Muley (prince). How we shall get on, I know not. I shall write one letter after I know the Sultán’s intention, but if you should not hear for some months, you may rest satisfied [that] I have passed Wadnoon. I feel that the same Providence which has hitherto preserved and protected me, will guard me through all the difficulties and dangers I am about to encounter. Should I not get on, I shall make a virtue of necessity, return to the Sultán at Fez, and make the best excuse to get to Tâfilêlt. I am, thank God, quite well, and have commenced training, taking two spare meals a-day, living principally on bread, rice, eggs, and weak tea; no wine, and very rarely meat; exposing myself much to the sun, and sleeping in the air.”

The Sultán had commanded Mr. Davidson to wait at Téródánt, the capital of Sús el aksá, about forty miles south-east of Santa Cruz, till he should be able to afford him a secure protection in his progress southwards: but a correspondence already established by the traveller with the Arab chief of Wád Nún, who is in name only subject to the emperor, and has the power of securing a passage across the desert, and impatience of further detention after so long a delay, made him anxiously entreat permission to advance as far as Wád Nún, and instead of remaining at Téródánt,[150] he repaired to[192] Suweïrah or Mogador, about seventy miles due north of Santa Cruz, where he had the advantage of enjoying the society of Mr. Willshire, British Vice-Consul, on whose aid in promoting his views he knew he could rely. From that place he had again an opportunity of addressing the Duke of Sussex.

“Mogador, March 18th, 1836.

“Sir,—After a fruitless attempt to cross the western branch of Mount Atlas, owing to the unusual quantity of snow, I have been obliged to come to this place, which affords me another opportunity of taking advantage of your Royal Highness’s condescension in permitting me to address you. Having received the Sultán’s consent to cross the mountains for the purpose of visiting the Jews, I left Morocco for Mesfywa, and taking the route by Trasremoot, reached an elevation of 5,000 feet; but here the loose character of the snow, and the uncertainty of the track, obliged me to abandon my project. I was accompanied in this journey by a Rabbi, from the district of Coubba or Cobba, to which place it was my intention to have proceeded. From this man I received much curious information, and have yet great hopes of reaching the people of whom he spoke, and to whom he belongs, before I return to England. He informed me that in this place, nearly as extensive as that in which the city of Morocco is situated, there are not less than 3,000 or 4,000 Jews living in perfect freedom, and following every variety of occupation; that they have mines and quarries which they work, possess large gardens and extensive vineyards, and cultivate more corn than they can possibly consume; that they have a form of government, and have possessed this soil from the time of Solomon; in proof of which he stated [that] they possess a record bearing the signet and sign of Joab, who came to collect tribute from them in the time of the son of David; that the tradition of their arrival here runs thus:—‘Crossing the Great Sea to avoid the land of Egypt, they came to a head of land with a river; that here they landed, and following the course of this leading westward, but going toward the south, they came to a spot where they found twelve wells and seventy palm-trees. This at first led them to suppose that they had by some means got to Elim; but finding the mountains on the west, they were satisfied that they had reached a new country: finding a passage over the mountains, they crossed and took up their dwelling in this valley, first in caves, which exist in great numbers, then in others which they excavated, and after this began to build towns; that at a distant period, they were driven across the mountains by a people that would not acknowledge them, and that some remained at Diminet, Mesfywa, and other places on the western side of the range.’ Looking at the map, and following this man’s observations, it is perfectly easy to trace them. They must have reached the gulf of Tremesen, and taking the river Muluwia, or Mahala, have reached Tâfilêlt, where, to this day, are twelve wells planted round with seventy palm-trees, and[193] which many of the Jews call Elim; and from this they [must] have taken the pass to which I attempted to get. Knowing the interest your Royal Highness takes in all that refers to the history of the Jews, I have offered this man fifty dollars to obtain a copy of the record upon a skin of the same size and pattern as that which contains it, and ten dollars for the copy of two tombstones to which the Jews make their pilgrimages, and these he promises to send to the Jew agent in Morocco in six months, provided I do not in the mean time visit Coubba. On asking him, if at any period they had a great accession to their number, or if he knew anything of the breaking off of the tribes, he seemed anxious to drop the subject, and told me that the more learned men whom I should see at Coubba could better inform me; that from time to time, Jews came to them, but that these tombs and the writings they possess contain all their history. This man returned with me. I was most anxious to know the meaning of the names of some of the towns: he told me what the Moors call Mesfywa is Oom Siwá, the Mother of Siwá,[151] one of their families which crossed [the mountains]; that Ourïka [152] of the Moors, distant thirty miles, was ’Rebka, founded by one of their daughters, and that most of these places had originally Hebrew names. At Ourïka he left me. I continued for eight days to visit the towns inhabited by the Jews, to the number of above one hundred, and I should say that on this side there are more Jews dwelling with the Berbers in the mountains than resident in Morocco. They have all the same account of Coubba, and have a great belief in the Cabāllists, who they say still exist, and who receive direct communication from Heaven. I here send your Royal Highness a few of the names of the principal towns, but having lost my Rabbi interpreter, cannot procure the meaning of them: Argum, Rōōsempt, Towra, Towright, Ai Tattab, Tamazert, Zowisiderhald, Tedēēli, Tisgin (very large, two hundred families), A Mismish (one hundred and fifty families), Sefélmal, to the town on the Wad el Fis.”

The remainder of this letter is taken up with an account of a singular physiological phenomenon, if Mr. Davidson was not misled by erroneous information. He says that he had been told hermaphrodites are found in great numbers in the empire of Morocco, that they are avoided as impure, and specially mentioned in the Muselman law; that the Sultán’s minister, Sídí Ibn Idrís, one of the best-informed persons in the empire, assured him that there are numbers of them at Fez. The only individual called a khunthá, or hermaphrodite, whom Mr. Davidson had an opportunity of examining, was one of those cases of imperfect formation which are occasionally met with in Europe.

[194]At the close of the above letter he adds, “I am happy to inform your Royal Highness that I have the greatest support from Ben Dríss in favour of my proceeding to Soudan; and he hopes the Sultán will order my return by Tâfilêlt to Fez. I have completed my arrangements with the Sheik of Wád Nún, who undertakes, for a sum which I deposit in the hands of the consul here, Mr. Willshire, who has managed the matter with great judgment, to place me safely in Timbuctoo, provided the Sultán of Morocco does not object. I only wait the answer to the letters sent to make this request. My companion Abou’s family is still on the throne of Timbuctoo; Hamed Libboo, the present king, being one of his cousins, and Fehidier, king of Houssa, another of his relations, and Woled Munsor Enēēloo, king of Bambara, is well known to him.”

In the month of April, 1836, Mr. Willshire, H. B. Majesty’s vice-consul in the empire of Morocco, received the emperor’s royal passport for Davidson and his companion to proceed from Agadeer to Wád Nún, in consequence of which they immediately set out, and reached that place on the 22nd of April,[153] but as no caravan was then likely to be assembled, they were long detained in that sultry region. During this interval Mr. Davidson again addressed the Duke of Sussex.

“Tekínecou. Wadnoon, 3d July, 1836.

“Sir,—Presenting my humble duty to your Royal Highness, I beg leave to offer my most grateful thanks for the letter and its enclosures, and for which I shall ever feel indebted to your Royal Highness’s condescension. This, with other letters, found me returned to this place, after several ineffectual attempts to prevail upon any of the tribes to escort me across the Sahara,[154] on the confines of which I have been for the last three months, with the prospect of a further detention to the commencement of September. The objection of the Sultán of Morocco to my entering the district of Suse is owing, as he stated, to the dangerous and unsettled state of the country. The difficulties and delays with which I had to contend in passing through the numerous tribes now settled in the countries of Upper and Lower Suse, having no semblance of government and acknowledging no power, brought me to Wád Nún, too late for the spring Cafilas,[155] and at a period when the intense heat deterred even the Arabs from attempting the Sahara. Money, that all-powerful engine, prevailed upon five of the best of the Dummanees, who came with the van of the great Cafila from Soudan, to undertake with Sheiks Mohammed and Khiafee (who have each made the journey twenty times) to conduct me in safety to Timbuctoo, provided they were guaranteed a certain sum of money;[195] but this only at the request of Sheik Beyrock, under whose protection I have been for the last three months, and for whose permission to pass I have already paid very heavily. All our arrangements were completed the 6th of June, the day appointed for starting. On the 4th of this month the Great Cafila, which was twenty days behind its time, reached the encampment from which I was to have started: this brought sad news. It had been attacked twice on the route; the last time only four days’ journey from this place, thirteen persons killed, much property taken, and many slaves set at liberty. The Dummanees had charge at this time, and were bound to avenge this. They attacked a large encampment of the tribe Erdghebat, the assailants of the Cafila, carried off one thousand camels, three hundred horses, and twenty-eight of the choicest slaves. This at once sounded the tocsin. All the tribes were in arms, each calling upon the other to take their parts. The Erdghebat attacked the town of Tajacanth, two days’ journey (forty-six miles) from this, but were repulsed by the Dummanees, in whose district the town is, with the loss of forty killed and one hundred wounded, most of whom have been brought to me for attendance, the Dummanees losing but four men, and having sixty wounded, many of whom also are here. Sheik Beyrock is almost the only person whose people are not involved in this quarrel. He is the great arbiter and the most powerful of them all. They have all sent deputations to him, which has afforded me an opportunity of seeing portions of most of the tribes. My position is far from enviable; the jealousy and amour propre of these people is beyond all belief. I am charged with favouring one whose large arm requires two splints to support the fractured bone, or looking down upon another as puny, because I give him but two pills, whilst others less daring than himself take three. I have, however, managed to keep pretty good friends with all of them. This place offers but little of interest on which to address your Royal Highness. I hope I shall be enabled during my stay to correct some trifling geographical errors, particularly as to the course of two rivers passing through the district, and the Wad Draha,[156] which finds its way to the sea. I have, however, the satisfaction of informing your Royal Highness that I have positively arranged my departure, under a heavy forfeiture and disgrace for non-compliance on the part of the Dummanees, for the 21st of Jumád Awwal, our 1st of September, to halt three days at Tajacanth, and to perform the journey to Timbuctoo within forty days: for this, however, I have to pay very heavily. The arrangement has been made since I commenced this letter, which I have the honour of addressing to your Royal Highness, discussing the matter two days; since when many of the chiefs of the tribes were here, by express order of Sheik Beyrock. I told them at once that I wanted to go to Soudan; they knew it, and had been sent for the purpose; that the two[196] Sheiks, Mohammed and Ali, of the Dummanees, were to take me, and that I had already given Sheik Beyrock what he asked to ensure my safety, and now wanted to know what they would require for their camels and escort; the sum demanded was so exorbitant that I said at once I would give the matter up, go back to Fez, and request the Sultán to send me on. Upon this, the Deleïm [157] said, ‘You don’t go back without giving me five hundred dollars to pass my district.’ The Abousebah,[158] a day’s journey to the north of him, said, ‘If the Deleïm gets this, so will I.’ I appealed to the Sheik, who said he was as much astonished as I was. Seeing this, one of the party, who was the constant referee, said, ‘Christian, we are all pledged to protect your person: no one will harm a hair of your head; stop where you like; your person is safe; we all know your name—Ben Daoud.[159] We have promised this to Sheik Beyrock. One from each tribe will be with you, but pay you shall. We said nothing about your money; all we were asked was to protect your person, to swear none should harm you. Depend upon us; we keep our word, but go which way you will, you shall pay.’ The Sheik begged me to leave it in his hands: he admits he has drawn a great expense upon me, and has told me, under the circumstances, to write to the vice-consul at Mogador, who knows all these people, [in order to] get him to say what I ought to give, and he will make up the rest. Seeing my position, and recollecting the sibyl’s books, I offered one-half the amount asked to take me to Timbuctoo, which within the last hour has been accepted, and we have eaten some salt since.

“I find here still the Jews. The same precise account of their arrival and taking up their residence in the valleys of Atlas. One is here from Jerusalem begging alms, unusual amongst the Jews. He is advanced in years, quite blind, and has kept constant pace with me, taking advantage of my escorts from Tangier to this place: is anxious to get to Arowan,[160] where there is a very learned Rabbi. I cannot help him; my means will not allow me. They ask nearly as much for his passage as my own; having a greater fear of the Jews getting to Soudan than the Christians. I trust by this time your Royal Highness has recovered your perfect sight, hoping that about the period of this letter’s reaching England, your Royal Highness will have received the copies of the inscriptions from the tombs of the district of Mesfywa. I can hardly expect the copy of the record from Couba or Kobba will reach Morocco till the end of the autumn, when the Rabbi told me he should be returning, and would deliver it to the Consular Agent, the Jew Courkoss, to whom I have several times written. My companion begs most respectfully to present his duty, and hopes your Royal Highness will deign to receive the few lines from his pen, which he begs me to enclose. I am sorry to say I have great[197] fears for his health; he cannot bear fatigue, and has been attacked with ophthalmia. The whole of the Soudan people know him, and tell me he will prove a certain passport; that he is a cousin of Hamed Libboo; and another of his cousins, Ali, called Koutouk, the warrior, is now king of Kong, and that many of his family are at Kong, all rich and in power.

“Hoping this will find your Royal Highness in the enjoyment of perfect health, and trusting shortly to have the honour of addressing your Royal Highness from Soudan,

“I have the honour to be, &c. &c.

“John Davidson.”

In the territory of Wád Nún the traveller’s patience was severely put to the test. He was detained there from April till November. From Glamiz he wrote to his brother, on the 25th September, as follows:—

“Since my last letter, I have made three ineffectual attempts at getting on, although I now begin to feel somewhat confident that Sheik Beyrock, with whom I still am, never intended sending me till the end of this month, he being so fully pledged for my safety and due arrival, that fearing the heat and the unsettled, nay warring, state of the tribes, did not choose to run these double additional risks. On the 25th of this month there is, by mutual consent, a general cessation of hostilities, to enable the tribes to attend the great Socco [161] of El Shig, held at ten hours’ ride from this place, and at which the Arabs dispose of the produce of their flocks and tents, and lay in their provisions for the whole year. The armistice lasts for six days, to give time for going and returning, the market occurring on the 28th and 29th. Of this it is intended I should take advantage, and as my people do not purchase anything, but merely come as a cloak and take me off, we shall get full three days’ start, and be nearly out of the reach of danger. I am now going on in a very different style from that mentioned in my last, partly by taunting the Tajacanths as being cowards, and more perhaps by holding out to them the rich harvest they may gain by having the whole market for salt, purchased at Toudeyny, which supplies Soudan, to themselves. Paying, as I am, an enormous sum to go on, and advancing money for the purchase of salt, to be repaid on arrival at Timbuctoo, or, in the event of an accident, to be returned to Sheik Beyrock, who is to replace it in the hands of the Vice-Consul at Mogador, I now take the whole of this portion of the Tajacanths, to the number of two hundred men and six hundred camels. Our arrangement is as follows: On the 25th, when the Sheiks with two hundred camels and sixty men start, as if to visit the Socco, two hundred camels with corn and water will proceed direct to the Sahara; thirty camels will be detached from those accompanying the two Sheiks, and come here for my baggage, which by this, you will say, is no trifle, the[198] presents I am obliged to carry and the money (the cowries), ten camel-loads of which does not amount to one hundred pounds sterling, being all bulky. After shewing themselves at the Socco, they will join me on the road; we shall proceed to the tents, where we shall arrive on the 28th. A second two hundred camels with sixty men will proceed immediately. We remain two days to pack up our tents and grind zimeta,[162] the food eaten on the road, and carrying nothing with us but my baggage, which will now be divided between fifty and sixty camels, and make all speed to overtake the two former divisions. We shall materially lessen the load of the first, by giving drink and food to our own beasts, and loading those who for three or four days have carried nothing; and in this way push on to the first division, making no stop, with but very short nights, till we arrive at Towdeyny; there all will be loaded with salt, and this will require from eight to ten days. I hope, however, to find Hamed Libboo’s nephew there, and who no sooner hears there will be no regular Cafilá this year than he will be off with the news. I shall join him, provided poor Abou, about whom I have great fears, as you shall presently hear, can bear the journey. All are in great spirits, the people here believing that I have suffered so much on my last trip, from which I returned four days ago, that I have abandoned the idea of going on, and am now only waiting till I see El Shig, and go back to Fez. This is all very good, and I keep up this story: ’tis a very unsavoury one for me, as I cannot make the least preparation in the way of food for the journey, and forty-five days’ hard travelling, and barley and dates ground up together and mixed with milk or water, is but poor food. Meat is given but twice, at Toudeyny and Arowan, at both which places the Cafilas rest. I have had a task of ten days’ hard work on dry bread, and that not the sweetest at the end of the time, and one piece of fish, but am better in health for it, but not much fattened by it. My two first excursions were productive of little information or amusement; not so my last, which was replete with incident, and afforded me both pleasure and information. We started from this place, accompanied by the Sheik, and about a dozen friends and house slaves, under the impression that we could have reached the tents of the Tajacanths, to which, if we got, my things were to have been immediately forwarded. The first day convinced us of the impossibility of this, and not wishing to appear foiled or disappointed, we proceeded to the river Draha,[163] passing a beautiful country as far as scenery, but wholly without drinkable water, and came to the sea where this river empties itself. I had not for some weeks past eaten any of the food cooked in the Sheik’s house, but had been living on some stuff furnished by the Jews residing here: they received orders to prepare a bag of bread for the Christians, with which we started, the Sheik carrying tea and sugar; after a ride of eight hours, we halted[199] at a very powerful spring of water, but so salt, that neither the Sheik’s horse nor mine would drink, and by a sort of law here, horses are neither allowed food nor water for twelve hours before they commence a journey: four small loaves were divided among the party, and those who liked took a saline draught, not an effervescent one. We remained half an hour, and proceeded, crossing a fine chain of hills, starting many herds of gazelles, and after two hours arrived at a large encampment, where we slept. Tea was made, but of the same water we had passed, and the boiling had far from improved its saltness. The preparation for dinner was too disgusting, and I will spare it you. We started the following day before day-break: the heat being excessive, we were obliged to cover the stirrups, &c. with our haiks.[164] At one P.M., going S.E., the thermometer was 140°—112° in our tents at night. Reached the wells, and found much cattle, but water salt. Here we got plenty of camels’ milk. Rode till six; halted, and killed two large wolves and many snakes. Off early, and crossed the mountains of Ab-el-Assel,[165] at the foot of which we found Bahra, one of Sheik Beyrock’s sons-in-law, with 1,000 camels. Here I saw much of Arab life—the settlement of points of law, marriages, and divorces. Here the story-teller and the bard divided the night between them. The wild Arab girl danced and sung the praises of the Sheik, and the poor Christian had a ditty composed in his favour. Next day we turned towards the sea; killed some wild boars; at the sea, got some fish;—and turned homewards, taking a different route: but no water except salt. I was ten days on this journey, and travelled, on an average, ten hours a day. Before this reaches you I shall be on my way to Timbuctoo. An express will be sent on my arrival.

“Faithfully yours,

“John Davidson.”

“Since my letter to your lordship I have visited Sheik Beyrock. The map is but an indifferent guide; there is no such river as the Akassa; it is the Assaka, running near to this place: between this and Glamiz there are two other rivers, not laid down at all, the Boukoukmar and Syad. The point at which Sheik Beyrock wishes to form his port is the mouth of the river Draha (from El Wad Draha),[166] which, according to my reckoning, is 32 miles S.W. of Cape Noon, and should occupy the place marked on the map Akassa.

“I fear Sheik Beyrock has far overstated his means, but not at all the capabilities of the country. I am confident much may be done, in a commercial point of view, with these people, but he wants a better port than the Wad Draha—shallow water, heavy[200] surf, and many sand-banks: he has, however, shown much judgment in the selection of his position.

“The Wad Draha, rising a little S.W. of Tâfilêlt, runs through the productive districts of Draha and El Harib,[167] passing near to Tatta and Akka, skirting lower Suse, finds its way through the fertile country possessed by the tribes of Errub, Draha, Maraibait, Tajacanth, and Ergebat. These people can furnish large quantities of produce, and could, according to their own account, be great consumers, could they purchase goods on more reasonable terms. These people have in their hands the largest portion of the Soudan trade in gold, gum, ivory, and ostrich feathers; they rear large quantities of wool and skins, and in the districts N. and E. of this, immense quantities of oil, wax, hides, and almonds.”

On the 11th of that month, Mr. Vice-Consul Willshire informed the Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society that on the 3d Mr. Davidson, at whose patience and high courage he expresses his astonishment, wrote in spirits at the prospect of leaving a place where he had suffered so many annoyances, vexations, and disappointments:—

“‘Even now,’ he adds, ‘after waiting for the Cafila, which will be immense, near 400 men, and, they say, 2,000 camels, I am not even going with it. I should, by all accounts, as a Christian and a doctor, be worried to death. I go straight from this to Arowan, never touching the Cafila route at all; we shall not see a single tent. There are some wells, known only to two or three of the guides. We take five naggas (she camels) for milk, the five men, and Mohammed El Abd, some zimēta (barley meal). I take the biscuit for Abou and self; each carries a skin of water, to be touched only if the milk fails: thirty days to bring us to Arowan, and five more to Timbuctoo.’

“I have made the above extracts to assure you that the arrangements were made, and Mr. Davidson ready to start at a moment’s notice, and that in the course of two or three days I hope to have the pleasure to acquaint you of his having proceeded on his journey. Once away from Wád Nún, and I have every and the fullest confidence of his efforts being crowned with success.

“I have the honour to be, Sir,

“Your most obedient servant,

“Wm. Willshire.”

“P.S.—I open this letter to add, I have received a letter from Mr. Davidson, dated Saturday, the 5th inst., who appears in high spirits, and writes,—

“‘The start is to be on Monday, although I do not go on that day; everything is now packed up, and placed ready to be put on the camels, with which Abou starts at day-break on Monday. I am to be left here, as if having sent him on. Mohammed[201] El Abd remains behind. On Wednesday or Thursday, according to the distance made by the camels on the first day, we start on horseback, accompanied by Beyrock and about six horsemen, and are to make Yeisst, if possible, in one day. Here I leave the district of Wadnoon. And to this place is three days’ journey for loaded camels. I here leave my horse and mount my camel, and we push on to the tents.’

“Mr. Davidson did not start on a sudden, on the 3d inst., as stated to me by a courier, who brought me a letter from him of that date, and which I reported in a letter I had the honour to address to his Majesty’s secretary of state, Viscount Palmerston, on the 8th inst., and which you will oblige me by correcting and making known to his lordship.

“Your most obedient servant,

“W. W.”

The following extracts from Mr. Willshire’s letters will give all the intelligence received respecting the sequel of Mr. Davidson’s expedition:—

“Mogadore, 13th Dec., 1836.

“Sir,—I had the pleasure on the 28th ultimo of announcing the departure of Mr. Davidson from Wadnoon, on his route to Timbuctoo, and I beg to acquaint you, I have since had the satisfaction to receive a letter from him, dated Yeisst, 15-16th ult., from whence he writes to me,—‘All is at length settled, and we start to-morrow morning at first-day. I believe also the Cafila will be allowed to proceed, although one mitcal a-head is to be paid by all who pass; we have here above fifty persons, and one hundred camels. I am unable to tell you for certain the route I take; this is to depend upon circumstances. But two persons besides Mohammed El Abd accompany us; so that after all the talk of Wadnoon, I am going in my original way, of a party of only five, including Abou and self.’

“Yeisst is three days’ journey south of Wadnoon, from Temzirst, (which place Mr. Davidson describes as a beautiful ride of eight hours, and speaks in high terms of the attentions and civilities of Sheik Hammo, who, with a party of twenty horse, accompanied him from Temzirst to Yeisst.) Mr. Davidson remarks,—‘Every step we have taken from Wadnoon we have found the people better, more liberal, more hospitable, and although somewhat savage, having yet a little mildness of character, of which there is none at Wadnoon.’

“At the date of the latest letters received from Sheik Beyrock, Mr. Davidson had been gone from Yeisst eighteen days, without there being any intelligence of him, which argues favourably for his safety: the greatest danger being upon the borders of the Desert, where there are many wandering and warlike tribes.

“I have reason to believe Mr. Davidson and party have pushed on as fast as possible:[202] the journey was to be done in a very short time, as the camels were only to drink six times; and by not visiting the tents of the Tajacanths, nearly six days’ journey would be saved.

“Mr. Davidson, in the concluding paragraph of his letter, writes—‘I am happy to say I have picked up amazingly, and have now no fears about my health; and I beg to assure you I flatter myself with the hope, that the intrepid traveller may pass a merry new-year’s day at the famed city of Timbuctoo—which event I trust to have the high pleasure of announcing to you in about three months, Sheik Mohammed El Abd having promised to be the bearer of a letter, which he is to deliver for me, and say—There is a letter from Yahya Ben Daoud;[168] the Tajacanths have kept their word.’—God grant he may, is the hearty and sincere prayer of, Sir, your most obedient servant,

“Wm. Willshire.”

“To Capt. Maconochie, R.N.”

Translation of a letter from Sheik Beyrock, dated Wadnoon, 1st day of the month Dual Caada [169] (answering to the 7th instant), received at Mogadore 13th February, 1837.

“To our friend, Merchant Willshire, English Vice-Consul, salám,[170] &c.

“We received your letter by the courier, which we have read and understand, about the news of the Tibbib [171] John Davidson; his death is certain—the Harib met him—death is the lot of all. We had arranged with all the tribes of Arabs who are known to plunder and commit robberies on the road; we had ensured his safety with them. The Tibbib did not leave our house until we had previously received security from Eborria (of the tribe of Idowlet), that he might pass through his district of El Harib; we had no fear, because they are traders, and convey and pass the merchants of Tâfilêlt, and receive hire. El Harib did not go that route but to kill him (the Tibbib), and we have heard that the merchants of Tâfilêlt had given money to El Harib to murder him. Tâfilêlt is only distant one or two days’ journey from the usual place of abode of the tribe of El Harib. As to the property of the Tibbib, nothing has found its way to this quarter; but should it, I will send it to you. His property will get to Tâfilêlt, where it will be sold, and you had better write to the Sultan Mulai Abderrahman, to give orders to his Viceroy to seek after his books, writings, and property.

“We inform you we have sent a friend to the Tajacanths, ordering a person to be despatched to Timbuctoo, to bring us Abou, who is gone there; and have given the strictest orders for every information and news how it happened, to be sent us.

[203]“As to the envy, like that of Wold Isheme [172] and others we have heard of, you know better than any one what money the Tibbib had. The truth of all the news will be known when the horsemen return from the Tajacanths. We will send it to you, and point out to you the spot or place where he (the Tibbib) was met, and the day he was murdered. His death would be first known at Tâfilêlt, from whence it would reach Fas, as many of the El Harib go to that city. We are far off, which is the cause of the intelligence being so long before it reached us. The station of the Tajacanths is twelve days’ journey from this place, and it is three months that no one has come to us from thence, except this news, which came from Yeisst. The money which he (the Tibbib) lent to Mohammed El Abd make yourself easy about it; the day the caravan returns, we will get repaid, and remit it to you.—Inshalla [173]—Salam.”

Translation of a letter from Sheik Beyrock, dated Wad Nún, 1st day of Dual Caada, (answering the 7th inst.), received at Mogadore, 13th February, 1837.

“To Sidi Hadge Abibe, salám,[174] &c.

“As to what you write about the Tibbib John Davidson, the party of the Harib found (or met) him and killed him, plundering him of all his property, and that of Mohammed El Abd,[175] which he had with him of long-cloths and hamburgas. On the day they killed the Tibbib they seized his companion Abou, and swore to him by the most solemn oath, if he did not show and tell of the property belonging to the Christian, they would take his life, upon which he discovered and told them of everything, which they took and went away with; and the reason why I did not write to you before now, I had doubts of the truth.

“How comes it that you listen to the words of Wold Isheme, who writes to the Jew his friend, and tells him the Tibbib had deposited with us the sum you mention in your letter? why did you not answer Willshire on the point, as you saw the money he delivered over to Mohammed El Abd? God be praised, we are known not to be traitors, like Wold Isheme: however, if his companion Abou comes, he will relate all the news with his own mouth.

“Be informed we have written to the heads of the Tajacanths, Sidi Mohammed Dumanee, Sidi Mohammed Ben Annish, and Hamed Moolud,[176] to send persons like themselves to bring to us his companion Abou, from wherever he can be found; at all events, if he be alive, you will see him, Inshalla, and if dead, God’s will be done.

“The words you report, that we had arranged with the Harib to betray him (the Tibbib), such doings are not our ways, nor could we degrade ourselves to do so; everyone God will reckon with for the words he utters.

[204]“For four days we neither ate nor drank, and have sworn by all that is sacred to be revenged. Whenever the Harib are to be found, in their tents or on the road, our tribe shall plunder and kill them.

“As regards the property of the Tibbib, if any articles remain in the hands of the Tajacanths, they will reach you. God knows how much we have grieved about him, but, God be praised, we did not leave anything undone for the safety of the Tibbib. We did not think the Harib would turn traitors to any person sent by us. This has been done by the traders of Tâfilêlt, who had bribed the Harib to kill him. God’s will be done: the facts will be known when the two horsemen return, whom we have despatched to Tajacanth, and which will be sent to you.—Peace.”

“Mogadore, 14th February, 1837.

“Sir,—I had the melancholy duty, on the 1st instant, to make you acquainted with the distressing intelligence which had reached me regarding Mr. Davidson. I am grieved at heart to inform you that all the accounts I have received since confirm the melancholy tidings.

“The most circumstantial account I have heard, I derived from a Jew trader of the name of Jacob Ben Cohen, who arrived here from Draha on the 2d instant, and reported to me that Mr. Davidson had been robbed on the 29th or 30th of Shaban [177] (thirty-two or thirty-three days after Mr. Davidson started from Wadnoon), by the tribes of Idowlet and Ait Atta, in the district of Hameda, four days’ journey from Tatta, who, receiving from Mr. Davidson eight doubloons and one hundred dollars, and a loaded camel, allowed the party, consisting of eighteen persons, to proceed on their route towards Timbuctoo; Wold Hamdan [178] and Eborria, of Idowlet, and Wold Henna and Wold Aboo, of the tribe of Ait Atta,[179] he mentioned as the names of the robbers. My informant stated, that, eight or ten days after, a marauding party of 100 horsemen of the tribe of El Harib, who were returning from plundering a place called Bousbeyah,[180] met Mr. Davidson’s party a little to the south of Egueda, whom they immediately robbed, and shot Mr. Davidson, who received eight balls, and when dead, every one discharged their muskets at his body as a meritorious act. At El Mehamdee,[181] a town distant six days from Tatta,[182] where my informant was living, he saw in the possession of the Arabs and Jews various articles which had belonged to Mr. Davidson,[205] which he described, and left no doubt on my mind as to his fate. Among the articles which he had seen, he named a silver watch, a pocket-compass, sword, three books, a box of medicines, Japan tea-caddy, beads, and cowries, all of which he must have seen, or he could not have described them so correctly as he did. My informant could not give a certain account of the fate of poor Abou, the companion of Mr. Davidson, but understood he had gone on with the caravan, in which he is partly borne out by the letter received from Sheik Beyrock yesterday.

“Other accounts state Mr. Davidson and party were travelling some distance in a parallel route, but rather behind the caravan, which was first met by the party of El Harib, who were disappointed not to find Mr. Davidson, for whom they inquired. The caravan was stopped; and afterwards Mr. Davidson came up, when he was instantly shot. Another report inclines me to believe the Harib at first appeared friendly, and afterwards seized an opportunity treacherously to murder him at a place called Sheh’ Keyah,[183] twenty days’ journey from Wadnoon, and about twenty-seven days distant from Timbuctoo.

“I have been much disappointed that the information received by the return of the courier I despatched to Wadnoon with letters to Sheik Beyrock is very meagre and inconclusive. In his letters no allusion is made to the robbery and murder of Mr. Davidson, as having occurred at different places, nor is the account of Jacob Ben Cohen supported in this point by any of the reports which have come to my knowledge, except the one received by my agent from his son at Morocco, which states that Mr. Davidson had been robbed, and afterwards allowed to proceed on his journey. I have no reason to suspect treachery on the part of Sheik Beyrock, although the reports set afloat by Wold Isheme are intended to create such a suspicion. The falsity of the report that Mr. Davidson had deposited a large sum of money with the Sheik is evident.

“Considering there was a great probability Abou might have been taken by the tribe of El Harib, and detained as a slave, I directed the Sheik to procure his release, and to send him to me. By the answer he has returned, he appears to believe that Abou had gone on with the caravan, in which case there is not much likelihood of the horsemen despatched from the station of the Tajacanths overtaking it.

“I beg to acquaint you I have not yet determined upon what steps to take to collect further information, having only yesterday received the letters from Sheik Beyrock. It is my wish to despatch a Moor to proceed to Draha, to recover if possible everything belonging to Mr. Davidson; the great difficulty is to select a person well acquainted with the country, and in whom every confidence can be placed. I attach considerable value to the notes Mr. Davidson may have made on the route from Wadnoon up to the moment he met his untimely fate. I have in view a Moorish trader who has[206] travelled in many parts of the Desert, and if I can come to an arrangement with him, I shall despatch him to Draha, with directions to proceed to the very spot; and everything I can do towards elucidating this melancholy affair, be assured, will be done. I mourn for my friend.

“I remain, &c.
(Signed)

“W. Willshire.”

“P.S.—I have omitted to state, that by the report of Jacob Ben Cohen, Mr. Davidson met his fate on the 8th day of Ramadan,[184] answering to the 17th or 18th of December last. Sheh Keya, near the southern confines of the district of Eguedee,[185] sixteen days from Tatta, and ten days from Toudeyny.

“E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Esq.”

“Mogadore, March 7, 1837.

“The answer I have been looking so many days for from Sheik Beyrock, in reply to a long letter I wrote to him, only reached me this morning. In it he gives rather a different version from former reports. At Eguedee, on the 18th day of Ramadan, Mr. Davidson and a party of Tajacanths, twelve in number, were at a watering-place, when a party of seventeen of the tribe of El Harib came up. It is stated, more as a surmise than on certain information, that some of Mr. Davidson’s party having gone to drink, leaving their muskets behind, some of the Harib cut off the party thus divided, when two of them immediately shot Mr. Davidson, and plundered the camels, tearing and destroying all his books and papers. The Tajacanths, who were plundered, and afterwards, with Abou, allowed to proceed on their journey, and are gone on to Timbuctoo, do not appear to have offered any resistance. The Sheik recalls the assertion made in a former letter, that the traders of Tâfilêlt had bribed the Harib to waylay and murder Mr. Davidson.

(Signed)

“Wm. Willshire.”

“E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Esq.”

“Mogadore, March 14, 1837.

“Sir,—A trader of Wadnoon, named Sidi Ali Wold Ifkee, with whom Mr. Davidson was on intimate terms during his stay at that place, arrived two days from thence yesterday, called and gave me the following relation of the melancholy fate of that gentleman, which I believe can be depended upon, and is deserving of more credit than any other. The substance is as follows:—

“Mr. Davidson and party were first met by some of the tribes of Ilowbet and Ait Atta, who took from him some money, and allowed the party to proceed. The party[207] reached Swekeya,[186] where they rested to wait for the caravan to come up. On the third day, a party of fifteen, or more, of the tribe of El Harib arrived at the resting-place, and after the usual salutations, inquired of Mohammed El Abd who he was travelling with? when he replied, a shereef, who was going to Gualata [187] on business. After some little conversation, the head of the party of El Harib requested Mohammed El Abd to show him the watering-place, who, leaving his musket behind, and the rest of the Harib sitting down, accompanied him over the sand-hills, and when out of sight, hearing a report of a musket, Mohammed El Abd asked what had been done, when the Harib replied, his party had shot the Christian; he complained bitterly, and said he would rather they had murdered him. It is stated, that when Mohammed El Abd went away, one of the Harib pretended to examine his gun, and seized the opportunity to take aim, and shot Mr. Davidson, who was sitting on the ground a short distance from the party, who immediately began to plunder and seize everything belonging to Mr. Davidson, allowing Mohammed El Abd to keep possession of what property belonged to him, obliging him first to make oath on the Koran. That the caravan was not met by the Harib, but has gone on to Timbuctoo, with which Abou, the companion of Mr. Davidson, travelled.

“Sidi Ali added, that he had reason to believe that the first robbers gave intelligence of Mr. Davidson’s route to the tribe of El Harib; and that had not Mr. Davidson stopped, he would have reached Toudeyny before they could have overtaken him.

“I am most sorry to observe, that I do not entertain a hope of receiving further or more correct particulars regarding the fate of Mr. Davidson than what I have communicated. He was aware of the perils and dangers of the journey; nothing could shake his determination, and his valuable life has paid the forfeit; but his name will be handed down to posterity, as one of the many victims who have nobly fallen in the cause of science.

	“I am, &c.
	(Signed)	“Wm. Willshire.”

“E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Esq.”

[208][Extracted from the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of London:—
pp. 100—110. Vol. 6th.]

“My name is Abú Bekr es siddík: my birth place is Tumbut. I was educated in the town of Jenneh (Genneh), and fully instructed in reading and construing the Koran,—but in the interpretation of it by the help of commentaries. This was [done] in the city of Ghónah, where there are many learned men [’ulemá], who are not natives of one place, but each of them, having quitted his own country, has come and settled there. The names of these sayyids who dwelt in the city of Ghónah were as follows:—’Abd-Allah ibn-al Hájj; Mohammed Wataráwí; Mohammed al Mustafá; Fatík, the white [man] [al abyad]; Sheïkh ’Abdäl-kádir, Sankarí, from the land of Fútah Jálló; Ibráhim ibn Yúsuf, from the land of Fútah Tóró; Ibráhím ibn Abí-l Hásan, from Sillá by descent, but born at Járrah. These men used to meet together to hear the instructions of ’Abd-Allah ibn-al Hájji Mohammed Tafsír.

“My father’s name was Karah Músá, the Sherif,[188] Weteráwí, Tassír, i.e. of the royal family.[189] His brothers were named Idrís [Enoch], ’Abdu-r-rahmán, Mahmúd, and Abú Bekr. Their father’s name was Már,[190] al Káïd, O’mar ibn Sháhidu-l-muluk [son of the King’s witness or chief law officer] in the cities of Tumbut and Jenneh. He [191] was also called Ibn Abú Ibrahím (may his grave be visited!) was of this country. He was their father’s first-born, and for that reason my name was called by the name of his brother Bekr.

“After their father’s death, there was a dissention between them and their families, and they separated, and went into different countries of the blacks.[192] Idrís went to Járrah, and married a daughter of Már, al-káïd Abú Bekr: her name was Ummuyu,[209]—and he dwelt there. ’Abdu-r-rahmán travelled as far as Kong. He married the daughter of Abú Thaúmá ’Alí, lord of that country, and dwelt there. The name of his wife was Sárah. Mahmúd [travelled] to the city of Ghónah, and settled there. His wife’s name was Zuhrá. Abú Bekr remained at Tumbut with the rest of the family.[193] He was not married at the time I left our country.

“Before all these things happened my father used to travel about [continually.] He went into the land of Kashinah and Bernú. There he married my mother, and then returned to Tumbut, to which place my mother followed him. It came to pass after this, that he remembered his brethren, repented on account of them, and wept bitterly. He then ordered his slaves to make ready for their departure with him [on a journey] to visit his brethren, [and see] whether they were in [good] health or not. They, therefore, obeyed their master’s orders, and did so; and went to the town of Jenneh, and from thence to Kong, and afterwards to Ghónah. There they abode and continued to serve their master, collecting much gold for him there. In that country much gold is found in the plains, banks of rivers, rocks, and stones. They break the stones, and grind them, and reduce them to dust. This is then put into vessels, and washed with water till the gold is all collected under the water in the vessels, and the dust lies above it. They then pour out this mud upon the ground, and the gold remains in the vessels; and they spread it out to dry. After that, they try it [on a touchstone], and make such things as they are able. For money or exchange they use shells, called al woda’,[194] gold and silver; they also barter goods for goods, according to the measure of their value.

“My father collected much gold in that country, and sent much to his father-in-law; together with horses, asses, mules, and very valuable silk garments brought from Misr, with much wealth, as a present to him. He was my mother’s father; his name was Al Háij Mohammed Tafsír, of the countries of Bernú and Kashínah, both inhabited by his family.

“After this my father fell ill of a fever, and died in the city of Ghónah. He was buried there, and his brothers went and made a great lamentation for him. At that time I was a child; I knew nothing of this, but all these things were told me by some of our old men. They [my father’s brothers] returned afterwards to their own dwellings, and Mahmúd [alone] was left in the city of Ghónah.

“My mother’s name was Nághódí, that is, in the Haúsá tongue; but her real name was Hafsah.[195] Her brothers were named ’Abd-allah Tafsír, As-sifá, Ya’kúb, Yahyà,[210] Sa’ad, Hámid Bábá, Múmin, ’Othmán, and ’Abdu-lkerim. Her sisters were Habíbah, Fátimah, Maryam, and Maïmúnah. Their father was named Al Hájji Mohammed Tafsír, of the cities of Kashínah and Bernú. With respect to my mother, she was born in the city of Bernú. Her father, when he went to perform the pilgrimage [to Mecca], left her mother suckling her, on which account her name was called Nághódí.

“My brothers were named ’Omar, Sálih, Sa’íd, Músá Bábà, Múmin, ’Abd-allah, Suleïmán, Mustafá, Yúsuf, and ’Abdu-r-rahmán; but my mother’s side, Sálih only. My sisters were ’A’yishah, Aminah, Selímah, Hawái [Eve], and Keltum; but Aminah only on my mother’s side. These men and these women issued, all of them, from the stock of the Sheïkh ’Abdu-l-kádir, the sheríf, and their family name is Mór.

“About five years after my father’s death, I asked my instructor, who taught me the Koran, to go with me to the city of Ghónah to visit my father’s grave. He answered, ‘Yea, Abú Bekr assiddík, if it please God, I will do that thou dost desire.’ He then prepared himself, and sought for provision for the road; and he was followed by a large company of his disciples,[196] who bewailed him. We reached the city of Kong, and afterwards went on to the city of Ghónah; and abode there a long time, reckoning that country as our own. We found protection [197] in that country. Two years after our arrival in Ghónah, it entered into my teacher’s heart to set out on the pilgrimage; and while he was making diligent enquiries from people who were going to perform the pilgrimage, some men told him of the business of Mohammed Keshín and his brother ’Omar, and Adam, of the land of Buntukhú. He then began to make inquiries of the people of Buntukkú, and they told him that Omar and Mohammed Keshín had departed, and had left Adam behind; that he was not [now] going, but wished to go. My master made haste to seek for him in some of the towns, and left me in the city of Ghónah with my uncle Mahmúd.

“At this time we heard the news of the business of Adingharah, Sultán of Buntukkú, after the Sultán of Bandah, or Inkoransá, who was named Afwá, had been killed. They say Adinkarah wished to kill Kujóh, governor of Kolongzhwí, a town belonging to the Sultán of Ghónah. He wished to kill him, because of what happened between him and Dikkì, his deputy [who had been killed by Kujóh]. Adinkarah, therefore wished to put the latter to death by way of retaliation. Adinkarah, Sultán of Buntukkú, sent to Kujóh, requiring him to pay a great deal of gold as a ransom for his life,[198] and Kujóh sent what he required; but he refused to accept it, and said to Kujóh’s[211] messenger, ‘Return to thy master, and say to him, “Unless thou increase it by 200 times as much, I will not accept it; but my sword shall take his head from off his neck; thou shalt die a swift death.” When this messenger came to his master, and told him these words, Kujóh stretched out his hand, took back the gold, and kept it; and likewise sent a messenger to the Sultán of Ghónah to tell him what had happened.

“Then was Adinkarah very wroth; and he ordered all his captains to gather all their soldiers together, and follow him to make war against Kujóh, and to kill him, that they might avenge the death of his servant Dikkí. When the Sultán of Ghónah heard that Adinkarah, Sultán to Buntukkú, and his army, had come against them to kill them, he and all his host, together with Kujóh, rose up to meet them, and marched against them as far as the town of Bolóh, choosing to attack them there; and there they fought from mid-day till evening. Then they separated, and returned to their own places. Seven days afterwards, they again gathered themselves together, and engaged in battle, at the town of Amvighóh. It was a hard fought battle, and many souls perished on that day. Thus did Adinkarah overcome the King of Ghónah, and take the town of Amvighóh. The people of Ghónah fled, and some of them passed on [as far as] to the city of Kong.

“On that day was I made a slave. They tore off my cloths, bound me with ropes, laid on me a heavy burden, and carried me to the town of Buntukkú, and from thence to the town of Kumásí, the King of Ashantí’s town. From thence through Askumá and Ajimmakúh, in the land of Fantí, to Daghóh, near the salt sea.

“There they sold me to the Christians, and I was bought by a certain captain of a ship of that town. He sent me to a boat, and delivered me to the people of the ship. We continued on board ship, at sea, for three months, and then came on shore in the land of Jamaica. This was the beginning of my slavery until this day. I tasted the bitterness of slavery from them,[199] and its oppressiveness; but praise be to God, under whose power are all things, He doth whatsoever he willeth! No one can turn aside that which he hath ordained, nor can any one withhold that which He hath given! As God Almighty himself hath said:—Nothing can befal us unless it be written for us (in his book)! He is our master: in God, therefore, let all the faithful put their trust!

“The faith of our families is the faith of Islám. They circumcise the foreskin; say the five prayers;[200] fast every year in the month of Ramadán; give alms as ordained in the law; marry [only] four free women—a fifth is forbidden to them except she be[212] their slave; they fight for the faith of God; perform the pilgrimage [to Mecca]—i.e. such as are able so to do; eat the flesh of no beast but what they have slain for themselves; drink no wine—for whatever intoxicates is forbidden unto them; they do not keep company with those whose faith is contrary to theirs,—such as worshippers of idols, men who swear falsely by the name of the Lord, who dishonour their parents, commit murder or robbery, bear false witness, are covetous, proud, insolent, hypocrites, unclean in their discourse, or do any thing that is forbidden: they teach their children to read, and [instruct them in] the different parts of knowledge; their minds are perfect and blameless according to the measure of their faith.

“Verily I have erred and done wickedly, but I entreat God to guide my heart in the right path, for he knoweth what is in my heart, and whatever [can be pleaded] in my behalf.

From this narrative we collect that the writer of it was born at Tumbuktú, about the year 1794; that his grandfather ’Omar was an al-káïd, or magistrate, in that city and in Jenneh on the Jálibá or Niger, and son of the king’s witness, one of the principal law-officers of the state. Kong, where his uncle Abdu-r-rahmán settled, is the place in the chain of mountains running parallel with the southern coast of Africa, the position of which was pointed out to Mungo Park. Its distance and bearing with respect to Jenneh, as far as Abú Bekr could give any notion of them, appear to agree nearly with the position assigned to it in Mr. J. Arrowsmith’s Map of Africa. Ghónah, the residence of Mahmúd, another of Abú Bekr’s uncles, is about eight days’ journey east or south-east of Kong. That place he believed to be mid-way between Jenneh and Ashantí. But as the distance between Ghónah and Ashantí is twelve days’ journey, that capital, the position of which is known, must be about twenty days’ journey distant from Kong, and forty from Jenneh. Abúr Bekr was two months on his way from Jenneh to Kong, but he thought the journey might be completed in fifteen days; twenty days, therefore, gives a fair mean, and confirms his supposition that Kong is just midway between the Jálibá and Ashantí.

When only two years old, his father removed to Jenneh from Tumbuktú, or, as Abú Bekr generally called it, Tumbuttú, or Tumbut;[201] of that place, therefore, he had no recollection. When only four years old he lost his father; and five years afterwards, when he was in the tenth year, he went to Ghónah to visit his father’s burial-place, stopping one year at Kong on the way. On the supposition, therefore, that he[213] remained three years at Ghónah, he was in his fourteenth year when he fell into the hands of the Ashantís, and was sent as a slave to the West Indies either in 1807 or 1808. Amvíkoh, the place where he was seized by the people of Buntukkú, is fifteen or twenty miles to the south of Ghónah, and nine days’ journey south of Kumásí, the capital of Ashantí. Daghó, the place on the coast where he was put on board ship, is mentioned by Protten, the Danish missionary, as not far from Winnebá, one of the British forts. (Adelung, Mithrid., iii. 188.) From Daghó, or rather Cape Coast, Abú Bekr was carried to Jamaica, in which island he passed about twenty-seven years of his life, first as the slave of a stone-mason named Donellan, subsequently on the estate of Mr. Haynes, and finally as the property of Mr. Anderson. Donellan was a very kind master, and when he told his slaves, about a year after Abú Bekr was purchased by him, that, as his mother wished to see him, he must return to England, after selling his property in Jamaica, they all shed tears. Mr. Haynes, it appears, was not himself resident on the island; and it was by his order that Abú Bekr, and the rest of the slaves on his estate, were baptised. In what manner they were prepared for baptism, it was difficult to ascertain; certain it is, as we learn from Dr. Madden, that the Mohammedans still retained their faith in the divine mission of Mahomet. It was at his baptism that Abú Bekr was named Edward Donellan. Mr. Haynes’s benevolent intentions cannot be doubted; but, as is too often the case where the planters are not residing on their property, his overseers and agents did not faithfully execute his orders, for “it was then,” says Abú Bekr, in a paper written on his voyage home, “that I tasted all the bitterness of slavery.” On the 6th of September, 1823, Mr. Haynes’s property was sold, and Abú Bekr was purchased by Mr. Anderson, who, having discovered his steadiness and honesty, employed him to take an account of all that came or was issued from his slave yard. He put down everything in negro English and in the Arabic character, (for he never had an opportunity of learning to read or write English,) and read it off to the overseer in the evening. His cyphers they perhaps could read themselves, and therefore prove his sums; but as he is well acquainted with the first rules of arithmetic, and very careful, they were probably satisfied with the sum total that he gave in. After his liberation he continued in the same employment, but his condition could hardly be said to be improved, as his employer merely gave him his board, and appears to have withdrawn most of the former indulgences, without substituting wages in their stead. Nor, but for the kind and determined assistance of Capt. Oldrey, would he have been suffered to come to this country, or indeed to leave Jamaica.

Of the kindness of his present master he speaks in terms of the warmest gratitude; and Mr. Davidson, on his part, fully appreciates his merits. Should that enterprising[214] traveller be so fortunate as to reach Tumbuktú in safety, he will find—independently of the rank which, it seems, Abú Bekr’s relations there hold—that so faithful, affectionate, and intelligent an interpreter is a treasure, the value of which cannot be too highly estimated.

As the veracity of Abú Bekr’s narrative has received an unexpected corroboration from the testimony of persons whom Mr. Davidson saw in Morocco, it may appear superfluous to enlarge upon the circumstances which justify our reliance on the truth of his statements; but a brief mention of a few will perhaps be considered as an appropriate conclusion to this paper.

We may say, then, that his general good character, his years as indicated by his face, and the cessation of the slave-trade in March, 1808, are all so many evidences in favour of his statements respecting the age at which he was carried to the West Indies. His knowledge of the Arabic language is another very cogent proof of the truth of his statements. Though far from being able to write it with strict grammatical accuracy, or possessing the command of an abundant stock of words and phrases, his power of expressing himself in that copious and difficult tongue, and the clearness and facility with which he writes its characters, are truly surprising when his peculiar circumstances are taken into account. He could scarcely have completed his fifteenth year when taken away from Africa; was two years in the West Indies before he could obtain the use of pen, ink, and paper; and, with the exception of two or three negroes,—one fortunately on board the slaver which carried him off,—had no means of reviving his remembrance of what he had learned, till a very late period.

Some time before he left Jamaica, a benevolent stranger, who found that he could read Arabic, sent him, from England, a copy of the New Testament in that language; and he had also read parts of the Old Testament with attention, as is evident from some texts quoted in the narrative written on his voyage from New York to England. On seeing the plates in Mr. Bowdich’s Travels, he immediately recognised a street in Kumásí, and the magical ceremonies of the Ashantí soothsayers; in Mr. Dupuis’s book also the passage of the Basomprá. He mentioned many of the names of king’s and chiefs, of whom those writers speak. At the British Museum, instantly he recognized many old acquaintances; particularly the hippopotamus, who, he said, always came out of the water at certain hours, and did a great deal of mischief. With the plants and seeds he seemed equally well acquainted; particularly the nittah, a species of acacia, and the palms,—most of which he could never have seen in the West Indies. His acquaintance with the Korán was no less remarkable. “What became of that wicked king, Fróna?” said he, to one of his friends from whom he had already received some information.—“I never heard of Fróna,” said his friend.—“Oh, yes,” replied Abú Bekr, “you know[215] him,—he is spoken of in the Bible; he was King of Misr,—he is mentioned in many places in the Kóran.”—“Write down his name, then,” returned his friend; and he wrote “Fir’aum,” i.e. Pharaoh, very correctly spelt. It was too late to look for the Korán that night; but the next morning, he in a few minutes found out almost all the places where Pharaoh is mentioned—scattered, as need hardly be said, all over the book. In the summer, he chaunted the call to prayer—given by the Muedhdhins from the minarets of the mosque—with the exact pronunciation, intonation, and rhythm, that is used from Cairo to Constantinople, and from Belgrade to Dehlí.

The Kóran he must have known almost by heart, as he declared he had never seen a copy of it from the time he left Ghónah till one was put into his hand by the writer of this paper. He was not old enough, he said, when captured, to enter on a course of logic and rhetoric, or to study the commentaries on the Korán; but he knew the names of the most celebrated commentators. This is a plain proof of the superior civilization of the negroes in the interior over those near the coast; and, however incredible at first sight, it is confirmed by Burckhardt’s account of the Shaïkìyah Arabs in Meroë, and the well-written Arabic despatches from Bello’s court, now in the records of the Foreign Office.

In justice to Mr. E. Drummond Hay, the British Consul at Tangiers, to whom Mr. Davidson once felt disposed to attribute the difficulties thrown in his way and his protracted stay at Gibraltar, it has been thought fit to put in the Appendix the letters following:—

“Gibraltar, Sept. 16, 1835.

“My Dear Sir,—The advice I thought it my duty to give you was undoubtedly dictated by political reasons, which, although they may not in European States interfere with projects purely scientific, such as that of your gallant enterprize, appear to be of a widely different kind in Marocco.

“I gave the advice after mature consideration, and with an ardent desire for the success of your undertaking, in which I take a peculiar interest.

“I told you, I believe—but if not, I may now assure you—that I should probably save myself considerable trouble by taking immediately the step you wish, notwithstanding my advice and the reasons for it which I laid open to you in unreserved confidence, which I considered due to you as the bearer of a letter from his Majesty in furtherance of your object. I felt also the full weight of the responsibility I took upon myself in proposing some delay previous to your setting out upon the journey, and I[216] was well aware how much I should expose myself to the obloquy of society in general, and to the injurious criticism in particular of the literary world, of which, although I can hardly presume to consider myself a member, there is not an individual more zealous than I am, and ever have been, in the cause of geographical enquiry. I felt that it is impossible, and would remain for a long time impossible, to exculpate myself, by publishing reasons that I am not at liberty to divulge, and which cannot, without going into long and difficult details, be rendered intelligible, except to the very few intimately acquainted with all the circumstances of my official position, the relations of our government with that of Marocco, and the peculiar character of the latter.

“But since you tell me that you are still decided in your own views of the matter, not only after duly considering the advice I gave, and the conversation you had with his Excellency the Governor, but after what you heard from Mr. Judah Benoliel, the agent for the Sultán of Marocco; and as you give me the distinct assurance that you take all the responsibility of failure upon your own shoulders, I shall not lose a day in complying with your request for me to write to the Court of Marocco, for permission to present in person to the Sultán the royal letter, of which you are the bearer, when and where his Imperial Majesty shall think fit to appoint.

“I leave Gibraltar, if the wind is fair, the day after to-morrow, and would go sooner if I could; and before I have been twenty-four hours in Tangier, I hope to have a letter dispatched to the effect you suggest.

“I beg to repeat, my dear sir, that you will be a welcome guest in my house at any time; and whenever you do come, nothing shall be wanting on my part to promote your brave purpose, as far as my sense of what is politic may allow.

“I may get an answer within a fortnight from the date of my letter to the court; three weeks may, however, elapse before I receive a reply. On the very day it comes to hand I will, if you wish it, dispatch a boat express, in case there are no other means of communicating the answer, which will be sent to you in the original Arabic.

“With renewed assurances of my admiration for your enterprize, and of cordial wishes for its success,

“I remain, dear sir, your’s faithfully,

“E. D. Hay.”

“P.S.—Before I seal this letter I shall read it to his Excellency Sir Alexander Woodford and Mr. Judah Benoliel.”

“Gibraltar, Sept. 16, 1835.

“My Dear Sir,—Pray accept my best thanks for your letter, which I have just had the honor of receiving, and allow me to assure you that I shall ever most gratefully appreciate the kindness with which it teems.

“I presume you are aware that a Mr. Hodgson, who leaves this place to-morrow, is on his way to Morocco on a mission from the United States. He has kindly offered, should I obtain the wished-for permission, to wait a few days here ere he proceeds. I think it right, and I hope you will not think it intrusive on my part to inform you, that Mr. Hodgson was three years at Constantinople, has visited Egypt, and published a biographical sketch of Mehemet Ali; he is well versed in Arabic, and has a great knowledge of the Mussulman character. Once again offering you my thanks for your kindness, and assuring you of my respect, believe me,

“My dear sir, your truly obliged,

“John Davidson.”

As a specimen of the style in which a correspondence is kept up by the Court of Morocco with strangers, the letters from and to Mr. Hay relating to Mr. Davidson’s entrance into the Sultan’s dominions, and his obtaining a personal interview with the Prince, are herewith subjoined.

“To the Noble Prince, exalted by the Lord, Mulai Abd Errachnan ben Hussein, whom God protect.

“An English gentleman having arrived at Gibraltar within a few days past, as bearer of a letter, which he is charged to deliver to his Imperial Majesty, from the King my most gracious sovereign, may it please your Imperial Majesty to deign to cause me to be informed when and where it may be convenient for your Imperial Majesty to receive the bearer of the royal letter.

“Peace—this 20th day of September, in the year of Christ 1835 (26th Joomad the 1st, 1251).

“Edw. Drummond Hay,

“H. B. M.’s Agent and Consul-General in Morocco.”

[218]“In the name of the merciful God, and there is no power or strength but in God the high and excellent.

“To the faithful employed Drummond Hay, Consul for the English nation—this premised—

“Your letter has reached our presence, exalted of God, regarding the gentleman who arrived at Gibraltar with a letter from the Pre-eminent of your nation; in consequence whereof, if he please to deliver the letter to our employed, the kaid ............[202] Essedy, for the purpose of being forwarded to our presence, exalted of God, he may do so; but if he wish to bear it himself, he is to proceed to Swerrah by sea, and thence he may come to our high presence, since the voyage by sea is more convenient than that by land, and the journey from the said port to our presence is short.

“Peace—11th Joomad the 2d, 1251 (4th October, 1835).

LONDON:
Printed by J. L. Cox and Sons, 75, Great Queen Street,
Lincoln’s-Inn Fields.

FOOTNOTES:

[127]For the notes at the foot of the page, the Foreign Secretary is answerable.

[128]Vol. vi. p. 102, and which is reprinted at page 208 of this volume.

[129]Tanjah.

[130]Adwár, plural of dár, a circular tent.

[131]Autád plural of Watad, a peg or stake. Autád is corruptly pronounced Útséd or Útsét.

[132]Wádí Nun, or Núl, the valley or river of Noon or Nool.

[133]Rabát, i.e. Resting-place, Caravan-seraï; but here the name of a town.—F. S.

[134]Terjumán, or Tarjumán, interpreter, a word of the same origin as the Chaldee, ‘Targum.’

[135]The Kubbah (sepulchral chapel) of a saint named Múláï (Doctor) Ibn ’Abdes-salám.

[136]Mehedíyah (the city of Mehed).

[137]Salá.

[138]Wedáyá (valley-man.)

[139]Dár el beïdá, the white house.

[140]Múlaï Abd-er-rahmán, Duke or Prince Abd-er-rahmán.

[141]Azamúr.

[142]Umm-er-rabí, i.e. the mother of spring.

[143]Kantarah, i.e. bridge.

[144]Baïrám, or ’Id ed Dohá.

[145]Aswák, plural of Sók, or Súk, the Arab word for market—bazár in Persian.

[146]Meshwár, Council.

[147]Sídí Ibn ’Abbás, ’Abd el kádir, Abú Sheĭb, Mubàrek.

[148]Aulád Abú Sebá, the tribe of Father Lion.

[149]Tárúdánt, capital of Sús.

[150]May we be allowed to lament the impetuosity of our lamented traveller’s zeal. At Téródánt he would, for a considerable time, have had ample occupation for every leisure moment. In a country known only by name, abounding with vegetables and fossils never yet examined, and in the midst of the Berbers, whose history and habits so few have been able to study, supported also by the favour of the Court, how largely might Mr. Davidson have increased our stores of knowledge, had he been willing to yield to the Sultán’s precautions!

[151]This is doubtless a mistake, unless the Jews call the place Umm-Síwah. The man did not understand the meaning of the name, and therefore said this to screen his ignorance.

[152]This is Aghmát Waríkah of the Arabs, so named from a Berber tribe, to distinguish it from Aghmát Aïlán.—F. S.

[153]Mr. Davidson’s Letter, Journ. of Geogr. Soc., vol. vi. p. 430.

[154]Sahrá is a large level area, a plain, but applied peculiarly to the Great African Desert.

[155]Káfilah, the Arab word answering to the Persian Kár-raván.

[156]Dar’ah, pronounced Dr’ah.

[157]Delím, or the diminutive, Duleïm.

[158]Abú-s-seba, i.e. Father Lion.

[159]Ibn or Bin Dáúd, David’s Son.

[160]A’ra-wán.

[161]Sók, or súk, i.e. market or fair.

[162]Ziweïtah or zumeïtah, a kind of paste made of millet (dhurrah).

[163]Dar’ah.

[164]Háyik, i.e. white woollen wrapper.

[165]Abú-l’asel, i.e. Father Honey.

[166]El Wád Dar’ah, the Vale of Dar’ah.

[167]El Gharib, pronounced by the Berbers El ’Aríb.

[168]Yahyá ibn Dávid, John the son of David.

[169]Dhú-l-Ka’dah, the 11th Mohammedan month.

[170]Salám, salutation.

[171]Tebíb, physician.

[172]Aulád Hishém, children of Hishám, a large Arab tribe.

[173]In-sha-llah, “if it please God!”

[174]To Sídí Haj Habíb; salám: To my Lord, the Pilgrim; Habíb (or the beloved Pilgrim); salutation.

[175]Mohammed el ’Abd. Mahomet the Slave or Servant [of God].

[176]Ah’med Moulúd.

[177]Sha’ban, the eighth month; A.H. 1252, 29 Sha’bán = 8 December, 1836.

[178]Wold or Aulád Hamdán, an Arab tribe.

[179]Aït-Ata.

[180]Bú Sebá-iyah (a place) belonging to the tribe of Abú Seba. M. D’Avezac writes Búzebayat, following probably Ibnu-ddén: an unsafe guide.

[181]El Mohammedí, the Mahometan.

[182]The situation of Tátá has been determined with great probability by M. D’Avezac, in his Etudes de Géographie sur l’Afrique Septentrionale. See also Bullétin de la Société de Géographie, vii. 112.

[183]Afterwards Swekeya, which is probably more correct.

[184]Ramadán, the Mohammedan Lent, is the ninth month; A.H. 1252, 8 Ramadán = A.D. 1836, 17th Dec.

[185]I’gidí. Mármol, iii. 19.

[186]Before Shehkeya.

[187]Walátah of the Arabs, Aï-weláten (Aít Walâtah?) of Ibn Batútah.

[188]That is, “Descended from Mohammed.”

[189]“Kabílah,” which properly signifies “tribe,” but appears to be used by Abú Bekr in the sense of “family.”

[190]The same as Emír.

[191]That is, Abú Bekr’s father, as appears from the sequel.

[192]Al-súdán for Bilád-as-súdán—the countries of the blacks.

[193]Literally “with the other tribes.” It probably means “with the other families of the same tribe.”

[194]That is, kárúis, or blackmoor’s teeth, the Cypræa Moneta of Linnæus.

[195]He means her name as a Mohammedan; by her countrymen of Haúsá she was called Nághódí, a significant word in their language.

[196]Ghilmán means “young men,” but it also means “slaves;” however, Abú Bekr seems to have used it in the sense here given.

[197]Sultánán may mean ‘a sultán;’ but the power of living securely is probably what is here meant.

[198]The price of blood, or fine for having taken away a man’s life.

[199]This is—the people of Buntukkú, Ashantí, and Fantí. This is more distinctly expressed in another paper written by him.

[200]That is—pray five times a day.

[201]Nearly resembling the Tombutto of Leo Africanus, (p. 642,) and clearly an abbreviation of the Tungubutú of De Barros, (Asia, i. 220.)

[202]The word in the original cannot be decyphered.